monkey/rat stub axles

[bigchris]

hi
our wee ansmann buch have been killing stub axles recently , any alternatives available??

[Robbiejuk]

Front or back?

Can't say I have done either to be fair in over a years racing.

[Dandare]

I've managed to snap 2 front axles on my x2c in the last month or so, no obvious impact just lost the wheel :eh?: Bit annoying as you can loose the bearings, hex, pin & wheel nut as a result :mad:

I guess all you can do is keep a good spares back up.

[Andyp]

I think kyosho stubs would fit? I'm not saying they would be any stronger but they do a WC front stub that has the hex all built in.

What I'm thinking is that it has no hole to create a weak point

http://www.the-pred.co.uk/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=599

[Robbiejuk]

I think kyosho stubs would fit? I'm not saying they would be any stronger but they do a WC front stub that has the hex all built in.

What I'm thinking is that it has no hole to create a weak point

http://www.the-pred.co.uk/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=599

They look good, I wonder if they would thin the front track out to?

[Andyp]

Rob, when fitted to the kyosho rb5 WC front end they have 3mm ( I think) of spacers so you can alter the track by putting the spacer/s what ever side of the bearing you want

Hope that waffle makes sense

Maybe have alook @ the rb5 WC manual from the kyosho website things might become clear then

[bigchris]

hi guys
its the rear ones - never had an axlesoweak in over 20 yearsof racing!

[Smartalec]

hi guys
its the rear ones - never had an axlesoweak in over 20 yearsof racing!

Hi Chris, I've not seen a single rear axle break on any x2c that I know running. Where exactly are they breaking? Is it behind the wheel nut, at the joint to the driveshaft? :confused:

[lordnikon]

While I've not experienced it personally some guy grabbed a spare drive shaft off me months ago after breaking his. Quite a big off and it broke the hub clean through where the drive pin hole is.

[Robbiejuk]

Rob, when fitted to the kyosho rb5 WC front end they have 3mm ( I think) of spacers so you can alter the track by putting the spacer/s what ever side of the bearing you want

Hope that waffle makes sense

Maybe have alook @ the rb5 WC manual from the kyosho website things might become clear then

More adjustability, I like it :thumbsup:

Now time to find someone with a rb5 SP2 WC to borrow one off and see if it fits.

[bigchris]

hi
no big off involved , outdoors on grass , - breaking at the pin as you say- bit weird :confused:

[Mad-Wolfie]

The standard Rat/Monkey shafts are listed as part number 125000522 & the X2/X2c ones are listed as 125000457 & retail for about £4 more than the standard kit ones, so i'd be tempted to go for those. Both are interchangeable & look identical so there is no problem with getting them to fit.

Hi Chris, I've not seen a single rear axle break on any x2c that I know running. Where exactly are they breaking? Is it behind the wheel nut, at the joint to the driveshaft? :confused:

When i bought my Mad-Monkey both drive shafts at the back snapped clean off at the stub axle where the hex pin goes through on landing from a jump - 1st one went on the cars 1st run out on a track when it landed from the 1st jump it ever took & the other went about 5 or 6 weeks later in exactly the same spot on the axle.

I have spoke with a couple of people say they have had similar issues with their rat / monkey kits they have bought around the same time as i got mine so i'm guessing there is either a bad batch going around or they have simply changed the metal somewhere to a weaker grade & the parts are not as strong for some reason & the newer ones are weaker & BigChris has also fallen victim.

Thankfully i did manage to get some spare old standard mad-rat ones to use as donors which so far have held out & i never broke one on my old mad-rat, although i'd be tempted to get some X2/X2c ones as the part numbers are different so i'm guessing they are made of different metal.

[metalmickey0]

The standard Rat/Monkey shafts are listed as part number 125000522 & the X2/X2c ones are listed as 125000457 & retail for about £4 more than the standard kit ones, so i'd be tempted to go for those. Both are interchangeable & look identical so there is no problem with getting them to fit.



When i bought my Mad-Monkey both drive shafts at the back snapped clean off at the stub axle where the hex pin goes through on landing from a jump - 1st one went on the cars 1st run out on a track when it landed from the 1st jump it ever took & the other went about 5 or 6 weeks later in exactly the same spot on the axle.

I have spoke with a couple of people say they have had similar issues with their rat / monkey kits they have bought around the same time as i got mine so i'm guessing there is either a bad batch going around or they have simply changed the metal somewhere to a weaker grade & the parts are not as strong for some reason & the newer ones are weaker & BigChris has also fallen victim.

Thankfully i did manage to get some spare old standard mad-rat ones to use as donors which so far have held out & i never broke one on my old mad-rat, although i'd be tempted to get some X2/X2c ones as the part numbers are different so i'm guessing they are made of different metal.
When did you get yours then as i`ve had mine for about a month, got from the South West Model Show.

[Mad-Wolfie]

When did you get yours then as i`ve had mine for about a month, got from the South West Model Show.

had it around Christmas, mid to late December or early January, taking it racing in mid January. It was ordered direct from Ansmann so wasn't sat on a shop shelf as stock for months either.

I was running the rat for about 18months or so before i had it & never had a shaft fail once... only major thing that broke on the rat was t-plates, the rear hinge-pin holder which i later swapped for a metal one & the dodgy plastic shocks.

[MILKY]

I had an X2c axle break and replaced with what i had in my spares and it was a mad rat/monkey shaft,this also broke around the drive pin area.Probably made of chocolate:thumbsup: but another thing to remember is make a crush tube out of an old bearing shell and use it between the bearings.

Most important thing i found with all driveshafts is black grease in the joints to minimise touch conditions.

Another thing i noticed on one of my x2c kits the n/s/r driveshaft would bottom out on the outdrive where the diff nut is. this will cause the shaft to snap as it tries to turn.

hth

Neil

[Mad-Wolfie]

i do believe the X2/X2c shafts are harder metal because i have heard people say they are getting diff outdrive wear & pitting in the cups where the dogbone end of the shaft goes into the drive cup. Yet running the standard rat shafts they don't wear so much, so you have to ask do you want strength or save your outdrives... although the outdrives are a much cheaper part to replace & for what the drive shafts cost, you may as well just buy a mad-rat & rape the kit for the spares as the shafts as a spare part cost about half what a new rat kit costs.

I think a good solution would be the use of drive blades on the dogbone ends, but AFAIK there is no suitable ones that would fit out there & if there was you may have to dremel the outdrive to get them to slot in once fitted.

[Chalkie]

More adjustability, I like it :thumbsup:

Now time to find someone with a rb5 SP2 WC to borrow one off and see if it fits.

I'm running these they fit fine, you need 2 5x7x1mm washers as they only come with 2mm of spacers.