Tekin RS Pro - Timing Question

[B0tt0mline]

Hi,

I am pretty new to this whole RC racing stuff and just got my Tekin RS Pro:) I am using it in an Associated B4.1 together with a Viper 7,5t brushless, sensored motor.

Now I am setting it up with Hotwire via USB.

2 questions:

-Do you think it makes more sense to use the dual drive or sensored mode?

- In dual drive mode I can choose Timing Advantage, Start- End RPM. I do not know which values to enter. The motor has 4400kV... What do you think could be a good starting point?


Thank you very much!


Alex:thumbsup:

[DCM]

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwirehelp.html

[B0tt0mline]

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwirehelp.html

Hi,

Thanks, I've already gone through this help, but it didn't answer my questions:yawn:

[DCM]

Dual drive is less aggressive and smoother, plus takes less battery, sensored will give you a lot more power though.

[neallewis]

I use sensored only mode on my B4.1. This is best for 2wd, I've been through it on the tekin help forum with Randy Pike from Tekin.

You can use the Tekin Hotwire software to calculate the start and end RPMs for you, but use: 5443 and 20016 for starters.

Randy will refer you to their setup sheets as starting points:
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html
But they are for their 10.5 motor, though i've just seen they have 8.5 sheets, but not looked at them as yet.

Tekin Motors generally have higher Kv ratings, so use this chart: http://www.teamtekin.com/blmotors.html#redlines to work out where your motor compairs and use a setup for that to get you started.

My Tekin Redline 10.5T is rated at 4500Kv, so maybe use the 10.5 setup on the team tekin site first.

Here is my 10.5 setup: http://courgette.jml.net/~neal/RC/NL-Tekin-RSPro-10.5-setup.pdf
This works great for me, but start with a higher FDR (lower gearing) and gear up after checking motor temp after race.
FDR - final drive ratio (spur/pinion)x2.6=FDR. 2.6 is the AE B4.1 transmission ratio.
Ignore my 72 spur size, go bigger, say 74/75 minimum is best. The AE B4.1 Kit 81 spur lets the motor hang out too much with bigger pinions. To get the 72 to work for me I had to dremel the transmission casing a smidge to get the pinion I wanted to use to mesh. I wanted smallest spur to get the motor as far forward as possible, maintaining my FDR of 7.20.
You'll need to run a higher FDR (lower gearing) with your 7.5T as it will most certainly draw more power than the 10.5T, so get hotter quicker. Try starting around 75 spur/22 pinion (FDR=8.86) and gear up after checking motor temp after race.

There are lots of tuning options, but there is no right or wrong way, just start, then make a change and check your motor temp after race. A temp gun helps, but your finger will tell you when it's too hot.

Hope that helps you get started.

[neallewis]

I'll add that your track may dictate your gearing, boost setting and current limit choices.

I tend to use my standard setup, gear down, loose the boost, and turn down the throttle end point on my tranny to limit the speed on the small indoor hall I race in midweek.