Diff Washers, why not use glue?

[Appie53]

Dear Guy's, still think my diff is slipping (Ansmann). So why not glue the washers on the hubs? Is it possible that these washers slip on the hubs, because grease is everywhere? When diff is set to tied, would that happen?
Thanks for your support:)

[Appie53]

Would you give me some advice on this, very appriciated!!!:):)

[almunro]

Im no diff expert but dont glue them. Tighten up the diff but until its locked, then back it off 1/8 to a 1/4 turn and see how it goes.

To see if you diff is slipping, hold the spur and one of the rear wheels so they wont move. Now turn the other wheel, it shouldnt turn (no diff slip) or at very least take quite a bit of force to turn it.

Running a diff too tight is better than too loose, as it wont damage the diff. It will simply not allow the car to rotate in the corners as well. Too loose and you will ruin your diff.

[neallewis]

I've not built an ansmann diff myself, but i believe the design is similar to the associated ball diff. A well built diff shouldn't need the rings gluing to the outdrives, but if you have some wear in the components, it could be causing your problem. Check the spring, thrust bearing and that the bolt is straight. You could also take some fine wet and dry paper and sand any groves out of both sides of the diff rings, on a flat surface.

Saying that, back in the day, old schumacher cat diffs used to need the rings gluing to the plastic outdrives, which you did with CA glue. So it does work in this situation. You need to unsure you glue then perfectly true and flat though. If they are not sitting flat then you will get uneven wear and feel to the diff.

Split your diff down, totally clean it, sand the plates, check the spring, replace any worn parts, rebuild in the correct way. moly (black) grease on the thrust race, silicone diff grease on the diff plates/balls. There are lots of youtube videos on how to rebuild and correctly set a ball diff, go fine some and watch it through.

It shouldn't be cranked so tight that it feels really rough. When in the car, if you try spin the diff, the other wheel should rotate freely the other direction. The diff should always spin before the gearbox/spur and motor turns.
You don't want any slip in the diff, and the slipper should slip before the diff. I think maybe you've had too tight previously and worn some parts. For example, if you get the car stuck in a race, and one wheel is caught and the other free, and you rev the motor to try get free, you can fry a diff, certainly if its not set right.
rebuild and replace some worn parts. if you need to wait for some parts to arrive, then you could try glueing the rings to the outdrives.
If you're having too much trouble, can you replace it with a gear diff?

[Appie53]

Thanks for your advice! I did this: sanded the plates, indeed it had groves:yawn:, glued the plates and used new balls! Sofar it works fine:)
I think my diff has been slipping, so created deep groves:blush:

[mart3pop]

glueing the plates isn't necessary ; it will make it harder to sand/replace them later... a little bit of diff grease does the job (adhesion grease, often translucent, do not use black grease like for trust bearings)


it is normal to see a groove in the diffplates, but it has to be narrow, shallow and clean. Like you said yours has slipped and made a mess.

the whole point of rebuilding a diff (sanding the plates and then breaking in your diff ) is allowing the balls to form a nice new narrow "path" to roll in ...

[mark christopher]

as above you must use the correct diff grease as its not a lubricant, black grease etc will allow slip

[Appie53]

Bloody diff starts slipping again!:thumbdown: Could this be due I use tevlon grease? and makes all too slippery?:(:(

[bigchris]

yeah bin the teflon grease and get a good silicone grease like schumacher on Associated stealth diff lube!

[mattybucks]

If your having problems replace the screw and nut. It sounds like another rebuild is needed, wash away all the grease with either brake cleaner or activator, and use a good clear silicone grease such as associated for the diff, and black grease for the thrust.

Sand any grooves out of the plates with very fine wet and dry, the place a little clear grease on the outdrives and put the plates on. Smear the plates with some more of the clear grease, you want a nice thin covering all the way round the plates.

Stand the male out drive up, and place the diff gear on the outdrive/plate. Put balls in, and place the female out drive on top.

Put the thrust race on the screw greasing the thrust well, with black grease.

Carefully lift the diff up and insert the screw and start to tighten. Once the screw starts to grip, stop tightening and rotate the outdrives, continue to tighten until the diff is tight.

You can tell when then diff is tight by putting two allen key through the outdrives and trying to rotate the diff gear. If it rotates then you need to tighten the diff a little more.

Don't forget to compress the spring if you've not already done so.

[Steven Forster]

Have at look at these........

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Part 2
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Part 3
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Part 4
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:thumbsup:

[Appie53]

Thanks All for your support, and great clear videos, very appriciated:thumbsup:

[kaszal]

This is very useful, thanks! I will refer to these when building the diffs on my FS2