SV Hop-ups / Set up

[F1END]

Just about to get an SV2 :thumbsup: and wanted some advice as to what else I need to buy with it.

E.G. brass weights, tyres, hop-ups, pinion, shock oils, springs, etc.

Also some advice on build/set-up.

E.G. diff high/low, shocks front or back, front arms swapped?, etc.

Will be running mostly at Silverstone club night. Indoor on astroturf. Running a Novak 7.5L with saddles.

[mark christopher]

Just about to get an SV2 :thumbsup: and wanted some advice as to what else I need to buy with it.

E.G. brass weights, tyres, hop-ups, pinion, shock oils, springs, etc.

Also some advice on build/set-up.

E.G. diff high/low, shocks front or back, front arms swapped?, etc.

Will be running mostly at Silverstone club night. Indoor on astroturf. Running a Novak 7.5L with saddles.
run the astro set up in the manual. and poss trishbits front nose weight.

[john333]

I would start with a 24 pinion, rear shocks with 35 weight oil and 4 hole pistons, 40 weight front oil with 4 hole pistons, kit springs, no rear roll bar, front arms NOT reversed, medium wheelbase.

I find the sv2 needs more steering than the sv so I tend to run more front tyre (eg front mini pins instead of staggers) or spikes if you are outdoors

[gainsy]

I would say run the car standard to start with to get a feel of it, then you will be able to see what differences the hop up's make to the car when you add some
Only things mine has on it is the trishbits nose weight, under servo weight, the 5 degree yokes & 3 hole pistons all round
I do have the alloy zero trail hub carrier U3934 on order but only because i keep breaking the plastic kit ones(bad driving)
Have seen some run with the front wishbones reversed & some without, try it & see which suits you best, i prefer it standard
hth

[mark christopher]

I would start with a 24 pinion, rear shocks with 35 weight oil and 4 hole pistons, 40 weight front oil with 4 hole pistons, kit springs, no rear roll bar, front arms NOT reversed, medium wheelbase.

I find the sv2 needs more steering than the sv so I tend to run more front tyre (eg front mini pins instead of staggers) or spikes if you are outdoors
kit set up mine had loads of steering ar RHR!!

[DCM]

Loads of steering here to.... what I have done is...

+5' front caster blocks
Removed plastic spacer from under rear camber link plate
1mm washers under anti-squat on rear
4 hole rear pistons
removed all chassis posts and gone to the old topdeck connector
40wt front, 35wt rear.

[F1END]

Thanks guys.

Does anyone know where sells the Trishbits weights. Do they sell direct? Can't see anything on the website.

[Martyn (Bomber)]

Loads of steering here to.... what I have done is...

+5' front caster blocks
Removed plastic spacer from under rear camber link plate
1mm washers under anti-squat on rear
4 hole rear pistons
removed all chassis posts and gone to the old topdeck connector
40wt front, 35wt rear.

I noticed on the team drivers sheets they go for zero spacers under the rear camber link plate, does this also mean taking the plastic bit out or do they just mean no extra spacers ???

[DCM]

Not sure, putting the plastic spacer above the plate drops the ball height and makes the car more compliant.

[Martyn (Bomber)]

Not sure, putting the plastic spacer above the plate drops the ball height and makes the car more compliant.

Ok thanks, I've put a post on the SV2 setup thread to see if Tom or Si can answer this because it's a bit confusing on the setup sheets if there using the plastic spacer or not.

Do you find the SV top deck better on the SV2 then and which top deck have you gone for ???

[DCM]

Still got the SV2 on there but with the moulded not the turnbuckle link at the rear, would like to try the soft topdeck though.

[Npdp72]

Hi,
I race regularly at Silverstone (Moulton) with my SV2.
Initially I ran it completely as standard kit build to get a baseline and it was pretty good straight out of the box.
I fairly quickly added Trish's nose weight and moved the rear shocks to the front of the wishbones as I feel the car is more agile this way and quicker on the high grip astro.
So I would reccomend the nose weight and the SV1 rear shock mount as the first parts to buy to allow tuning.
I have found Yellow mini spike rears with Yellow stagger ribs or low profile cut staggers up front work very well.
I'm using kit springs and pistons with 40W oil at the moment, might go up to 45W on the front to give it a try.
I have flipped the front wishbones and I'm using 5 degree front blocks and short wheelbase on the rear wishbone quick clips.
There are a few SV2's at the club that all go well, setup seems to vary quite widely so come and have a chat with us, you won't be short of advice!
Nige

[DCM]

Didn't find a difference running the rear shocks at the front, except that it is a right PITA to do the slipper with them there!

[F1END]

Thanks for all the advice, even if half of it is contradictory :lol: lol

I think I'll just start off with with rear shocks, weight in the front (if I can find where to get one from), Mini-spikes, low-profile cut-staggers, a 24t pinion, 5 degree blocks and take it from there. I've already got some 30,35,40 and 45wt oil, so will try a few combinations.

Looks like a lot of tuning options, and looking at Toms set-up sheets on the Schumacher site he varies it quite a bit from meeting to meeting.

Having said all that, I doubt I'd notice the difference with my driving :woot: