dex210 CVD too short?

[ronny191]

hey guys, just recently encountering some strange problem.

sometimes halfway trough a right hand corner when the outside suspension is fully compressed and under accelaretion my cvd pops out?

when looking at it on the bench from underneath, if i fully compress the shocks, my cvd pin in the diffcup comes out a little.

when arms are level, the pins only sits like 1 mm inside the cups. just as if the cvd's are too short.
i have my T-nut on the right side, and the cvd that pops off is always the 1 on the left side (looking from behind the car)

i did have a crash with another car, so im changing my antisquat plate on the front of the back arms because it seemed warped. but i dont expect that to cure my problem.

any tips?

oh, laying the 2 cvd's next to each other, there is a difference in where that little bobble sits in the middle.
also read some things on inserting the correct pinhole in your cvd's, but that had to do with rubbing the T-nut in the diffcup.

[metalmickey0]

Cant you shim the whole driveshaft in towards the diff more or even limit the max travel on the shock?

[/tobys]

Contact TD; I'm sure they'll help to determine if the driveshaft is faulty.

[mark christopher]

are they same length if you measure them? do you have a bent hinge pin?

[ronny191]

shimming was not an option, there is simply no room, unless you have slob on your parts.

cvd's where the same length, also could not find a bent pin or shaft.

as said earlier i installed a new toe/squat block and that helped a little. if taken the whole thing apart to measure, but could find any thing longer than another. limiting shock travel seems the only way to go.

never had this problem before, so would like te hear if anybody has the same issue with there hingepins coming out of there diffcups when fully compressed and hingepin is sitting vertical.

thx for the advice so far guys!
seems metalmikey's option should work to limit travel :)

gonna test it tomorrow.

[racingben]

I have the same issue. Can't run less than 1 degree camber or it pops

[Jamesy]

Do you have the rubber bump stop fitted to the shocks? Or shock boots? Either of these will limit the up travel of the suspension a bit and may cure this issue.

[ronny191]

1 centimeter of nitro fuel line i had laying around to put around the shockshaft to limit the up travel should do it.

never heard of any bump stop?? but no, i dont have that fitted

[racingben]

Limiters fitted as per kit.

[AfroP]

check your rear droop screws
loosen these up a but and it should be all gravy

[tomvanelsen]

Its got something to do to the position of the camberlink.
In some positions it will cause the cvd to pop out

[Kiixx]

or you could just start to use the travel limiter screw, did it for me, as i had the same issue, TD would do nicely to add 1 or 2mm to the length of the CVD.

[dpackster1980]

Turn each driveshaft so the pin is vertical, adjust the droop screw until the pin is barely trying to come out of the drive cup and job done. The 210 still has plenty of droop even when you've carried this out. :thumbsup:

If you run with full droop then you'll get the wheels bouncing up and down because the driveshafts bind. If the driveshafts were longer they'll bind up worse.

[jkclifford]

this has started to happen to be, on both cars.

As for adding fuel tube to the shock shafts tried it out of desperation,cvds stay in but it drives like shit.

Drive shafts are too short. Fact.

[luniemiester]

Same problem, i think its a combo of driveshafts, a bit of end float in the gearbox and some slop in the links allow them to pop out.

I have put brand new shafts in and its the same.

One thing i have noticed is the gear diff is wider than the ball diff when measureing from the outdrive to outdrive so why cant they make the outdrives wider on the ball diff?

[jkclifford]

Not on really, I wanted a 2wd buggy. With 1.5mm under the droop screws, 8mm of limiters on the shock shaft to limit the up travel, all to stop the too short drive shafts falling out ive now got a touring car.

similar to the ball stud/cup problem. Just ignore it and take the money.

[Adam Skelding]

Not on really, I wanted a 2wd buggy. With 1.5mm under the droop screws, 8mm of limiters on the shock shaft to limit the up travel, all to stop the too short drive shafts falling out ive now got a touring car.

similar to the ball stud/cup problem. Just ignore it and take the money.

Have you tried contacting the support e-mail @ TD with your issue? We've mentioned on here numerous times if you have a problem with a part get in contact with the TD support on the e-mail address on the website rather than posting on forums. It's the only way we'll officially deal with your problem.

There must be something wrong with the parts you have as I run no limiters in the shocks and have the droop screws all the way (on wishbones with a counterbore). I have never had a rear driveshaft pop out in over a year of running the car its the same on I had at oOple and nothing has changed since that meeting with anything that should affect drive shafts popping out.

There's probably a very simple issue here but until you contact the support guys we can't help.

As for the ball cups, the material changed a while ago and you don't see any of the team needing to run other manufacturers equipment to finish races. They trust the TD stuff at National meetings, if they didn't you'd see none TD parts on their cars.

[jkclifford]

I've paid my money I've built it properly.
I'm not the only one with the same problem.

Looked at half a dozen at the weekend and they all look like they just about make it.


So I didn't see john newman change his for rpm ones at maritime this year then after loosing a track rod in the 1st leg of the A?

[coleman758]

Not on really, I wanted a 2wd buggy. With 1.5mm under the droop screws, 8mm of limiters on the shock shaft to limit the up travel, all to stop the too short drive shafts falling out ive now got a touring car.

similar to the ball stud/cup problem. Just ignore it and take the money.

I think your comments are unfair if you have not even bothered to contact TD about it? If I've ever had a problem they have sorted it out without fail.

Give them the chance before you slate them!

[Adam Skelding]

I've paid my money I've built it properly.
I'm not the only one with the same problem.

Looked at half a dozen at the weekend and they all look like they just about make it.


So I didn't see john newman change his for rpm ones at maritime this year then after loosing a track rod in the 1st leg of the A?

I never said you didn't build it properly. Please read what I actually wrote :) Just that there might be a simple parts issue at hand. But if you don't contact support then you won't find out.

Jorn Neumann was testing new materials at the event which weren't quite right.
He ran rpm ones at that meeting and since then the material has changed.

[OneKiwi]

How can you tell what batch the ball cups are from?

[dpackster1980]

Mine are close to popping out by the looks of them but I doubt they will but the ballcups won't help fine TD have changed the material which was part of the problem. The main issue is the profile of the cup and ball which aren't a snug fit I'd say more like a wizard's sleeve. :woot:

At full droop on a heavy landing I suspect there's a possibility it could happen but it hasn't happened to me yet.

[dpackster1980]

Take a washer out from under the inner rear camber ballstud so you're only running 1. If you run 2 on body roll you get excessive positive camber which on upward shock travel will try to pop the driveshafts out as someone has pictured.

One thing I've learned over the years is positive camber on body roll is wrong, the wheel shouldn't go past vertical which is what the 210 does with kit setup.

[Hulk]

As Adam said, just contact TD so they can help sort out your problem.

I have been running the 210 for just over a year and have never had a driveshaft come out. I always run maximum droop at the rear too.

As far as the ball cups, ive also not had a problem since the materials were changed. I run kit TD ones always, with absolutely no issues.

Some silly comments here people, TD are always listening to customers feedback and looking for ways to improve their products. Their cars are are probably the most robust and easy to work on in the market.

If you have a problem with a product, you go back to the shop you bought it from or contact the manufacturer direct. The RC industry is no different.

Send them an email or give them a call, simples! :thumbsup:

Craig

[adey]

Team Durango uk are very helpfull and are keen to listen and help customers resolve issues. I had some small issues with my 210 and they sorted it out for me and made sure I was happy. Can't say a bad word there.

[Jason A]

I had an issue with a new 410 v3 kit and a snapped front drive shaft so I called Durango direct.

After a short chat with James ambrose I was supplied with 2 new drive shafts as a replacement free.

Track side I had a servo horn strip at regional and I didn't have one spare so Adam skelding stepped in and helped out which allowed me to carry on racing.

All I have seen from team Durango is total commitment to there products and the people that use them.

I would just ring them and have a chat you might just be surprised and how easy it gets sorted.

:thumbsup:

[dpackster1980]

Nothing wrong With TD support, they helped me with the 410 when I had dodgy diff parts. There seems to be a lot more posts reference issues with the 210 than the 410. Saying that the 210 looks like its going to have a long successful future like the 410 maybe not a smooth one.

[jkclifford]

My first 210 came out the first batch. built it nightmares with the ball diff. (after wrecking the first one) and being ridiculous over charged for circlips.

130Mile round trip 1st outing waste of time and money.

Ball diff bined gear diff put in.
Insult out comes the online manual. if ots that critical should it not be in the book?

New car builds lovely even diff with new found knowledge.
100 Mile round trip driveshaft falls out.
practice diff undoes its self
1St round driveshaft falls out
Remove droop still falls out
Remove up travel drives poo.

use other car drive shaft pops out.
Car was fine on low grip high grip lots of chassis roll pop out.

2 Cars a year apart same problem this isn't defective parts this is geometry not complemening the driveshaft length.


I have now sorted the problem in a rather drasic way.

I have machined the outer bearings 1.2mm further into the hub. Shimmed the driveshaft with the silver 410 diff shims. Flushed of the exess plastic efectivly making the hub 1mm thinner or the driveshafts 1mm longer job done.

But why should I have too?

[Jason A]

I have had a 210 out first batch and have been running it since december 2011.

I race at club level every week and have done this years regionals.

I have run it in mid motor format and also rear motor for oople.

We have drain pipe for track markers at our club which are hard to hit.

I have broken 1 rear shock tower, 1 front wishbone and 2 rear wish bones,and a servo horn stripped in 9 months use.

I have never has any issues with rear driveshafts and i am still on original ball joints that very rearly pop off.

I have just turned the plates over in the diff this week after running the diff untouched since building it.

In my experiance the car has been rock solid and i cant understand why people are getting so many issues.

[adey]

I really don't understand this. I have a early 210 and know others who have them and don't have any driveshaft issues. Is there differences with the moulds or machining issues.

[sime46]

Talk to TD. It's not hard. Everyone find time to jump on here with problems and complaints which will ultimately slow the process down drastically. Contact TD. They WILL help you. Go racing. Enjoy the car. Smile. :thumbsup:

[jkclifford]

simple job.

[jkclifford]

Simple.

[brooksy]

That's a bit ott!. All I did was put a gold shim on both shafts before fitting it to the hub and job sorted. :thumbsup:

[jkclifford]

0.1mm didn't make difference.

1.6mm did.

Just look at the photos

[brooksy]

Shafts must be seriously short to have to drill that much out!!!. Think I would have definately contacted TD before I did that.

[BlackCat]

Hi everybody!
I just took a DEX210.
After three years ... someone can explain the "official" solution to this problem?
thank you :thumbsup:

[micholix]

Hi everybody!
I just took a DEX210.
After three years ... someone can explain the "official" solution to this problem?
thank you :thumbsup:

There are actually three way you can do.
1. less droop at the rear, so the dogbones can not pop out
2. you can buy the longer out drives for the ball diff TD310417
3. you can order the geard diff, here also the out drives ar a bit longer TD210034

I hope this helps?

[BlackCat]

micholix,
Thank you so much for your help:wub
I think my choice will be the option n.3... so I'll try something different setup :woot:

[micholix]

You are wellcome!:)