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View Full Version : Best 4wd for starters?


Shaun_TLR
30-07-2012, 04:18 PM
Ive been into 2wd 1/10 for about a year now (Losi 22) and really enjoying the racing. When funds allow, I might be lookin g to move into 4wd.

Wondered what you guys sggested as a good way to go. Cat sx3 seems popular, but not sure I want the hassle of adjusting belts etc shaft driven seems like it would be less hassle? TheDEX410r is attractive, but Im a student so replacement part costs need to be considered and ive been told theyre expensive.

Anyone any ideas?

ta :)

Karting
30-07-2012, 04:29 PM
The Ansmann x4Pro is very good and the parts are cheap to replace, BUT very sturdy anyways

DragonRider
30-07-2012, 05:11 PM
My vote would be for a B44.1, awesome car and parts easy to get and cheap to buy.

Shaun_TLR
30-07-2012, 05:22 PM
is the b44.1 shaft driven? and can I run saddles with it or not?

mes
30-07-2012, 05:23 PM
Go for the cheap version of the Yokomo B-Max4II! Very fast on the track, very tough and very easy to drive. You won't need any spares apart from maybe some front arms and shock towers. My son is a total beginner and has only managed to break one shock tower and front arm each so far.
:thumbsup:

DragonRider
30-07-2012, 05:23 PM
Yes the B44.1 is shaft Driven and Yes you can run Saddles.

Chris-S
30-07-2012, 05:39 PM
DEX410 is a very strong car, if funds are tight, keep a look out for second hand ones in the classfields.

Shaun_TLR
30-07-2012, 05:47 PM
DEX410 is a very strong car, if funds are tight, keep a look out for second hand ones in the classfields.

id quite like a 410 but ive been told the parts are ferrocious to replace, and thats if you can even get hold of them ??


are they legit issues?

Hpi_guy
30-07-2012, 06:01 PM
I can vouch for the 410's strength after a hard meeting at oople, parts are easily avaliable from any shop that will order them and from their website

Dudders
30-07-2012, 06:10 PM
Decent B44 on eBay from Ian Mullaney :thumbsup:

Stretch
30-07-2012, 06:32 PM
id quite like a 410 but ive been told the parts are ferrocious to replace, and thats if you can even get hold of them ??


are they legit issues?

The spares prices are such that it's cheaper to buy a second car for parts after the first few meetings.

If you can get a secondhand one in good condition with some upgrades, so much the better.

Skye
30-07-2012, 06:39 PM
My vote for the overall package would go to the B44.1. If you broke down all the elements of cost, cost of spares, availability of spares etc then I think the B44.1 would come out on top. There are no bad cars these days though so it comes down to what's available at what price when you are looking to buy. It's true that Durango spares can be horrendous to get hold of, but in my experience that has usually been limited to new releases where they just cannot meet demand. If you are looking at an older model then I would think you'd be ok. The Lazer is also very impressive, but Kyosho spares cost more than most.

Dave Dodd
30-07-2012, 07:25 PM
I second the x4pro, strong car. Very popular too. But always best to see what is popular at your local club and lhs for spares.

eddscott
30-07-2012, 08:01 PM
What about a Tamiya DB01r?

Decent price, parts easily available. Quite rare but the non R models are readily available.

Berky
30-07-2012, 09:54 PM
B44 - a good fast car and as tough as nails :thumbsup:

The car is reasonably priced as are the spares and there are plenty of them around if you looking for help with setups! :thumbsup:

I am average driver and like to get as much air on all the jumps on track where possible - the guys at SHRCCC can vouch for this :lol:. The only thing i ever break on the odd occasion on my car is a front arm but only because i get my braking wrong!

DHB
31-07-2012, 08:29 AM
I agree with many, dex 410, apart from alloy upgrades, which not all essential. parts are very reasonable to buy. Low maintanace diffs and tough car.

paulc
31-07-2012, 08:52 AM
I agree with many, dex 410, apart from alloy upgrades, which not all essential. parts are very reasonable to buy. Low maintanace diffs and tough car.


I agree with this too yes the alloy parts are exspensive but if you was to buy them you only need to buy them once but they are built like tanks the main thing i've broke on mine are rear wings witch are about 3/4 quid

Jason A
31-07-2012, 09:00 AM
I own both the Durango 210 and 410v3

The durangos are very solid reliable cars.

Spare parts are every where now it was only when Durango was being sold as company that there was limited spares.

The only thing really needed to be upgraded out box is alloy servo steering arm which is about 17.50.

:thumbsup:

Chris-S
31-07-2012, 09:08 AM
id quite like a 410 but ive been told the parts are ferrocious to replace, and thats if you can even get hold of them ??


are they legit issues?

Someone is telling you porkies!

The alloy parts don't break. I have broken a few other bits (wishbones, bulkheads), same as any other manufacturer, but have taken a lot more force to break. I had a B44, which would regularly fall apart for no apparent reason.

Spares are very easy to get hold of with next day delivery from Durango and shops such as ModelCarsReading, JESpares, MBModels all keeping a good stock of spares.

Shaun_TLR
31-07-2012, 09:45 AM
Mmm ok so maybe sounds like ill try a pickup a use 410 when I have some dollar then. What sorta money do they go for?

Shaun_TLR
31-07-2012, 09:49 AM
forgot to ask, does 410 use saddles? Thats a pretty big thing for me (being a student) I dont wanna have to fork out for a whole new set of batteries when I already have 3 pairs of saddles for the 22. being able to use the same batts for both would be a result.

thanks

ps is there any issues about having particularly tall saddles if so, as mine are taller than the normal 25mm ?

Chris-S
31-07-2012, 11:14 AM
DEX410 takes saddles. 25mm is the suggested maximum height, do your batteries have the nodules on the bottom? As you can flip them over to make them less tall, as the battery strap fits round them (e.g. LRP)

Shaun_TLR
31-07-2012, 04:15 PM
not sure what you mean, mine have female corrally fitments into the top of the cell?

/tobys
31-07-2012, 04:29 PM
what saddles have you got? There is zero margin for running bigger on the 410 on account of the driveshaft...

Shaun_TLR
31-07-2012, 04:33 PM
ive zippy lightmax saddles. cheapy ones really, but also taller than most at about 30mm :( been looking for some nicer ones i.e lrp or orions etc but just funds allowing

/tobys
31-07-2012, 04:36 PM
think you'll struggle with those in the 410 mate - sorry :(

mes
31-07-2012, 05:30 PM
In case you'll go for the DEX, make sure that the pin on the driveshaft above the saddles is secured with either the plastic ring in the kit (which seems to tend to break) or some heatshrink. Otherwise your batteries might go up in flames.

Shaun_TLR
31-07-2012, 05:31 PM
In case you'll go for the DEX, make sure that the pin on the driveshaft above the saddles is secured with either the plastic ring in the kit (which seems to tend to break) or some heatshrink. Otherwise your batteries might go up in flames.


nice thanks for the headsup

Naushad
31-07-2012, 06:49 PM
hmmm...if the bmax4 was more accessible I would go for this. For me its easier to drive than the DEX and more suitable for a starter.

You CAN pick up a Bmax4 with spares quite easily. Much cheaper than a DEX410.

TonyM
31-07-2012, 09:51 PM
The 410 is rock solid. I'm a poor driver and I've had many big crashes, but no major breakages. The spares are easy to get and certainly match, if not better, B44 pricing.

The geared diffs are far superior to the balled diffs in the B44.

mes
01-08-2012, 04:48 AM
As somebody said already, there are no really bad cars out there at the moment. You'll read many DEX410 and B44 recommendations just due to the amount of cars on the tracks. Plastic cars, however, may not have the bling-factor of an aluminum or carbon chassis, but are less sensitive to wrong setups and in general easier to drive. Many Shuey drivers prefer the S1 chassis to the carbon one just for the same reason, and Juraj Hudy will not equip the upcoming Xray XB4 with a tune flex chassis just for fun either.

I'd not recommend the cheaper Ansmann kits due to poor material (had a Macnum fall apart in many spots for no obvious reason until I scrapped it on eBay), but otherwise I'd recommend going for a 'soft' car, especially for a beginner. You may want to check out the current Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 SP version, too.
There's a video on the X-Factory youtube channel, in which Paul Sinclair comments on Naoto Matsukuras driving and the great quality of the B-Max4. I think coming from a designer of one of the most innovative companies out there this means a lot! :thumbsup:
Parts for the Yoke may not be easy to get on first sight, but you won't need many...

cutting42
01-08-2012, 08:20 AM
The 410 is rock solid. I'm a poor driver and I've had many big crashes, but no major breakages. The spares are easy to get and certainly match, if not better, B44 pricing.

The geared diffs are far superior to the balled diffs in the B44.

Why is this, I had heard the opposite?

TonyM
01-08-2012, 09:16 AM
Why is this, I had heard the opposite?
All I can go on is my experience with both the B44 and 410. When I had the B44 I had to rebuild the diffs on a fairly regular basis. Once I'd learn't how to build a 410 diff correctly I've just put them in and they run and run.

The B44 front shock shafts were very brittle and broke on a regular basis. I've never had to change one on the 410. The B44 front and rear arms broke very easilly and again I've never had to replace one on the 410.

Josh1928
05-08-2012, 08:59 PM
Schumacher CAT SX2! Amazing best 4WD in my opinion going!

cutting42
05-08-2012, 11:42 PM
I cannot give a comment on a range of cars as I am pretty new to the current scene and a learner driver really but can give my perspective on the B44.1 as I bought one. I got a great deal from a work colleague who bought a kit and shortly after decided to go 1/8th nitro.

I highly recommend the B44.1 as it was fun to make and very well designed for servicing and replacement parts. However the main reason is that it is so easy to drive and improve my driving on. Setup change lead to big changes in the handing and there are loads of other drivers setups out there on the t'internet.

I have found it extremely robust and have not broken anything yet (probably not going fast enough yet:) ) even the shock shafts. I have heard that you can use the std steel shafts from the B4.1 and they are much more resilient.

The out of the box setup worked brilliantly at my local outdoor astro course and I can just lower the ride height and go well indoor on a carpet track. Parts are cheap and there are loads out there. Only one Durango I know of and they love it but spares have been harder to get for them.

As someone above said, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the major car makes mentioned here, but worth seeing what is running at your local club so you can share spares/experiences.

Have fun!

cutting42
05-08-2012, 11:44 PM
Oh, and your 30mm high saddles should fit in the B44 as well!

M.Andrews
07-08-2012, 06:22 PM
If you go for the 410 v3 all you have to get is the alloy servo saver arm(durango or tresrey),alloy servo arm(durango) and alloy rear gear box holder(tresray) then you will have a very solid 410 V3 kit.
When I first had the kit the above bits broke pretty quickly,now its fine!.
The kit also has HD ball ends on it which don;t pop off for me but some people they pop off too easily. If you want these to stay on for sure then get some hpi ball studs and rpm ball ends then they will never come off!.

At my local club(TORCH) alot of people are swapping their 410 kits for the Kyosho 4wd kit and look very good on the track!.

dpackster1980
19-08-2012, 09:21 PM
I have a 410R and it now has alloy hangers over the past 2 years I've been buying them when I've got a spare few quid. I've got the carbon shock towers from Fibrelyte. The 410v3 from MB Models is only 260 which is unbelievable valve. They are pretty Mich indestructible and hard crashes where they make you cringe on the rostrum and nothing broke.

I'm currently running all original corners on the car as even though I've had some horrendous cartwheeling at the end of main staights its fine with no slop. However you will need a spare front bulkhead if you land upside down racing on grass or astro where the tower can dig in then it snaps the shock tower mounting lugs off. But that'll happen on any car you'll end up breaking something.

As for setup on the 410 because its aggressive compared to others you'll need to find your own base setup and not follow setup sheets exactly to the letter everyone's different and its quite sensitive to small changes.

I struggled for virtually a whole season its hard work but once you have the base setup then you'll just need to make small changes from track to track and you'll love it. I'll never get rid of mine. :wub

dpackster1980
19-08-2012, 09:44 PM
Kyosho kit are stupendously expensive, yes you don't need upgrades but you don't with the Durango. But for piece of mind I got the machine cut crown gears when they were cheap they've gone up a little now not much though.

B44s are ok but the front shock shafts are the Achilles heal and bloody expensive too. Because of them being in a very venerable to impacts and the metal isn't great they snap inside the ball joint so you need them spare to along with shock bottoms plus springs if you loose them. The crown gears are expensive unless you order from abroad. Trackside spares are good but they aren't exciting to drive, you can push hard think you've done a good time only to find it was very average.

The Durango doesn't need to be pushed as hard to get the best out of it. The spares are very well priced in some cases cheaper than the rest.

The 511 seems good if you can get one but they are very expensive if you can get one. The spares are cheap as chips from Hong Kong.

SX3 looks good too but from what I've seen needs more maintenance than the rest plus spares aren't that cheap.

slow coach
23-08-2012, 10:45 PM
Kyosho kit are stupendously expensive, yes you don't need upgrades but you don't with the Durango. But for piece of mind I got the machine cut crown gears when they were cheap they've gone up a little now not much though. .

you should read the post above your first it states all the bits you need to swap with alu to stop them breaking on the 410 :p

tbh all the cars are good on the market in one way or another, some are cheaper and easier to get parts, others more expensive but dont need many parts due to being built better, none are perfect


just for interest several guys run 410's at our club and they run well, one of our guys cooked his esc in his 410 so borrowed a B44.1 for the final and had his best ever result to date, he doesn't expect to win races as he was out the sport for 20 odd years and has started up again but his driving is getting better by the race, and he reckoned his 410 was better set up than the B44.1 as well, personally i got the ZX5 FS2 SP and now i have the shocks better suited to the track love it :thumbsup: but i will agree its pricey

trr061984
24-08-2012, 09:23 AM
Mmm ok so maybe sounds like ill try a pickup a use 410 when I have some dollar then. What sorta money do they go for?

Pick them up brand new for about 230 ish; so I would think about 120? Pretty sure one just got sold at our club for around this.

TARTMAN
25-08-2012, 06:55 PM
I have had my (used) sx3 for around 8 months. not adjusted the belts or replaced them once yet, or the diffs, only broken a few normal things like wishbones and shock towers. driven most weeks and has performed perfectly.
any saddles fit. I run a 22 as well........

I say go for a used sx3, can be bought around 140/160. Needs no upgrades to race it, plenty of optional ones when funds allow.
spares to keep in the box, well........... set of wishbones and shock towers. thats about it for main stuff......

Spares are available from schumacher next day or countless model shops.

easy to set up and easy to drive........

I have tried a couple of others but sticking with the sx3, its awsome. in my opinion.............................

badger5
25-08-2012, 08:42 PM
I would also give a vote for the SX3, nice and easy to drive and always seems to be easy to get a balanced car. The Durango I always found had too much or aggressive steering, and thus was difficult to get a good balance and more difficult to drive, but was a real tough car.

dpackster1980
30-08-2012, 07:08 PM
I would also give a vote for the SX3, nice and easy to drive and always seems to be easy to get a balanced car. The Durango I always found had too much or aggressive steering, and thus was difficult to get a good balance and more difficult to drive, but was a real tough car.

I'd say finding the Durango more aggressive is down to not finding a good base setup that suits you. Don't use setup sheets as everyone likes their car different. The same applies to every car.

badger5
30-08-2012, 09:05 PM
Quite true dpackster, but I found that the 410 was always more nervous than the Cat, especially in the dry. At our local track it seems that some people get on really well with Durango whilst others just can't, so for me it seems a bit of a marmite car.