Buying a DEX210 - Spares needed at first

[jo90]

Hi, hope someone can educate me on this one.

should I buy a DEX210 what parts do racers feel are necesary to have in your pit box from the off ? I will assume wishbones, hub carriers, C-Hub's are the norm ?

I saw a few use a Gear Diff, would this be a part thats necessary ?

Any help is gratefully recieved.

cheers

john

[Chris-S]

-Shock towers.

The car is very strong, if you break a part, you have hit something hard!

The gear diff is best on high grip tracks (e.g. indoor astro/carpet). Found the ball diff better on low grip and/or rough tracks.

[AfroP]

wheels
the tresrey alloy spacer/washer set
alloy shock bottoms
tamiya shock o-rings
ceramic diff balls(follow the diff build video on the website and the ball diff is fine)
Tresrey or durango alloy wheel hexes for the rear wheels

[Tomk26B4]

You'll need a new layshaft bearing after a while, useful to have one in the tool box

[jo90]

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. Seems like a tough nut of a car then :)

[AfroP]

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. Seems like a tough nut of a car then :)

yup

I'm a crap driver and crash often, and have only raced in-doors on a polished concrete floor and I've yet to break anything

[cjm_2008]

as pricey as there are, if you're racing on grass with the potential for moisture, the TD alloy rear uprights seem to be essential.

last sunday I was racing in the damp and for the first three rounds I couldn't do more than two laps before the rear wheels clogged up with grass cuttings.

all time between rounds was spent bodging some lexan 'pod wings' in an effort to keep the grass out. these worked for about 4 mins in the final round before things started going awry again.

it's fair to say that it completely ruined the race meeting for me. the only clean run I managed was the B final into which I had barely scraped... I finished third in the B in the end. absolute nightmare!

amazing car in the dry....

[Balders]

as pricey as there are, if you're racing on grass with the potential for moisture, the TD alloy rear uprights seem to be essential.

last sunday I was racing in the damp and for the first three rounds I couldn't do more than two laps before the rear wheels clogged up with grass cuttings.

all time between rounds was spent bodging some lexan 'pod wings' in an effort to keep the grass out. these worked for about 4 mins in the final round before things started going awry again.

it's fair to say that it completely ruined the race meeting for me. the only clean run I managed was the B final into which I had barely scraped... I finished third in the B in the end. absolute nightmare!

amazing car in the dry....

Exotek rear hubs are about half the price at DMS I think.

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-desc210-dest210-rear-pro-hub-1-pair/

Not essential though really, after I'd put deflectors on my shell Sunday I didn't have much more trouble with clogging..

Essentials I'd get would be shock towers and the steering link part that's all been mentioned before.

The car is hard as nails and you'd be going some if you managed to break it.

Straight out the box stick with the ball diff until you learn the car, the gear diff is good in certain situations but can make the car more 'agile', I've found the ball diff makes the car easy to drive and when you are learning a new chassis that's what you want.

[mattr]

I've been abusing one for 6 months (give or take).

Shock towers, get two or three, they will take loads of apparent abuse, then one innocuous upside down landing will snap one or other side off. Its only 5 mins to swap, and they are fairly cheap, so get a few. I've got the Cream CF ones now, which are far more robust than the stock ones. (and a Cream front one, just to match up!!). Putting a washer on each bolt between the tower and the bulkhead seems to have given the tower a bit of room to flex, and has increased the time between snappages!

Steering link (get a CF one, or there is a brass one someone on here makes as well) there's no servo saver, so somethings gonna give, get an alloy servo horn as well (i have a TLR one, drilled out) steering has pretty much been untouched since then, probably 4 months without an issue.

Can't think of anything else that's "needed".

Alloy front block is nice to have, ditto alloy spacers, i swapped all the hinge pin bolts out as well, those 1,5mm button heads are a pain to put in and take out. So i've got some "standard" bolts with a 2mm allen head instead

Nowt really other than that.......

[cjm_2008]

Exotek rear hubs are about half the price at DMS I think.

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-desc210-dest210-rear-pro-hub-1-pair/

Not essential though really, after I'd put deflectors on my shell Sunday I didn't have much more trouble with clogging..


good spot, I just ordered a pair.

moaning about the grass aside, I really have been blown away by the handling of the car. and I had the gear diff in without realising - it was only when I went looking for the adjustment screw that it became obvious.

[jo90]

Cheers guys this is all good info. To be honest im being swayed this way now away from the new RB6. As much as i'd like the Kyosho the DEX210 is seemingly a bloody good car and looking at the parts they are dead cheap (set of front/rear hubs and chubs to at £8...wizard!).

I will price up the G/Diff into my budget in any case but as advised i'll run the B/Diff to get used to running buggies again after all these years. Plannnig to get an 8.5t MMM to go along with the Tekin RSPro I have an the stubby Savox so I can run midmotor at Maritime.

I get the feeling if i have priced it right I should be able to get the car, necessary spares (a few S/Towers, 2 pair of front rear wishbones to be no the safe side and the other bits mentioned) I wont be looking at more than £300 for the car in total....bloody good !

Just need to add to that some saddle pack cells and im sorted. Now to get pimping and diving to get the money together and be hopefully ready for Off-Road wars round 1, possibly 2.

thanks again to all above !