NEW STARTER TO 1/12 RACING LOOKING FOR A GOOD SET UP PLEASE HELP

[supastoxrc]

hi,
looking at starting 1/12 pan car racing,wanting to know a good first ime set up gearing,esc,motor,car lol,any help please
cheers all
looking at running at stocksbridge and chesterfield

[RudolfXC]

The starting class used to be 10.5 blinky but a new class of 17.5 blinky has just started. A popular car is the 12R5.1 but there are also others such as Serpent, Corally, BMI, CRC. You will need a mini servo, 1S LiPos, and a 1S speedo such as the new Core RC 45. Depending on motor make, run a 10.5 at 60-70 mm/rev and a 17.5 at 90-100mm/rev.

Come down to Chesterfield on 1st or 2nd September to chat with some of us.

[SlowOne]

My suggestion...

CRC Gen XL or Gen Xi. you can get the Xi new, and the XL used. This is a good car, not difficult to build correctly and has a cells-across layout. Mick Farrell and Kev Creaser run the car and are often at Chesterfield so can give the car the once-over and set it up for you.

I would avoid the AE 12R5.1 as you will have to buy this second hand. If you do, beware that a lot of people sell cars because they are not built properly and therefore don't handle properly. You can't buy this car new any more, and the 12R5.2 is an in-line car only. Avoid the cars with in-line cells as these are harder to drive even if you build them OK. The CRC is the best car to start your 12th career as it is easy to build and ticks all the handling boxes for UK use.

I would start with a 17.5 motor if you've never driven a 12th car before. 12th cars are very different from other classes, especially these days. You never use the brakes, and you have to drive to the grip and get used to the almost instant response to the sticks. The 17.5 motor will allow you to make some mistakes with the build and have a driveable car, but it will also teach you line and corner speed and consistency - the keys to driving a 12th car fast. If you really can't bring yourself to drive slowly, then get a 10.5. Beware that this will bring out any errors in set-up and build very quickly, and cost you more in tyres and bodies.

These are the best items to fit to your car, and although they cost a bit new, you will fit and forget and they have a good re-sale value. These you can safely buy second hand.

Servo - Futaba 9602 (analogue) or 9650 (digital). Safest is the 9650 which works with any radion system, the 9602 will not work with Sanwa Exess and Futaba FASST systems.
Speedo - LRP SXX v2 or Hobbywing 120A v2.1 second hand as they both have a 1S booster built in and need no external booster or receiver pack. The Core RC 45 is great value new, as is the new Mardave G2 BL system; take the fan off to make them fit under the 12th body - you don't need it anyway. Avoid speedos that don't work with 1S cells as it just complicates the build and running of the car for a new driver.
Motor - a Dynamite, Reedy or Thunder Power motor are good value and work very well with 1S. Select the wind depending on the class you want to run.
Body - Protoform AMR is the only one to have; simples!!
Tyres - for 17.5 you need yellow rear and magenta front (CRC, Jaco or Parma) or Contact pink rear and soft pink front. The CRC/Jaco/parma tyres are faster. Get three sets and rotate them using a new set each run, and swapping them from one side to the other each time you use a pair. You will need to true them down from the packet sizes, but just anyone at Chesterfield to bring in a truer one night and they'll do it for you. Start at 44mm rear and 42mm front for either class.
Additive - CS High Grip is the only one to have - another simples! Full width rear and half width front (from the inside) is a good starting point.
Gears - use Kimbrough spur gears and nothing else, and RW pinions up to 47T for your 10.5 motor, and CRC pinions from 53 to 59T for a 17.5. Use an 80T spur for 10.5 and a 76T spur for 17.5. Once you have chosen your motor you will only need one spur gear and a couple of pinions to account for tyre wear, so the outlay is quite small.

It's a reasonable investment in total, but if you ever decide 12th is not for you, then it will sell very readily. Using cheap and cheerful stuff will give you problems eventually and will have no re-sale value as no other 12th racer will us it! Most of it you will find for sale on forums eventually, so you can get down to a good starting cost by buying the right kit at the right price. All this stuff is basically bulletproof, so buy with confidence.

Our shop of choice is AMC as Wim has absolutely everything you would need and is very helpful. There's a Shootout meeting at Chesterfield on 2nd September when there will be hoards of the best guys there and you can ask us all, and talk to Wim as he will be there with his shop.

If there's anything else you need, please come back and ask. Your best move is to go to Chesterfield first, find Mick or Kev and just ask. I hope you get going, because once you do you'll be hooked! HTH :)

[rclou]

My suggestion...

CRC Gen XL or Gen Xi. you can get the Xi new, and the XL used. This is a good car, not difficult to build correctly and has a cells-across layout. Mick Farrell and Kev Creaser run the car and are often at Chesterfield so can give the car the once-over and set it up for you.

I would avoid the AE 12R5.1 as you will have to buy this second hand. If you do, beware that a lot of people sell cars because they are not built properly and therefore don't handle properly. You can't buy this car new any more, and the 12R5.2 is an in-line car only. Avoid the cars with in-line cells as these are harder to drive even if you build them OK. The CRC is the best car to start your 12th career as it is easy to build and ticks all the handling boxes for UK use.

I would start with a 17.5 motor if you've never driven a 12th car before. 12th cars are very different from other classes, especially these days. You never use the brakes, and you have to drive to the grip and get used to the almost instant response to the sticks. The 17.5 motor will allow you to make some mistakes with the build and have a driveable car, but it will also teach you line and corner speed and consistency - the keys to driving a 12th car fast. If you really can't bring yourself to drive slowly, then get a 10.5. Beware that this will bring out any errors in set-up and build very quickly, and cost you more in tyres and bodies.

These are the best items to fit to your car, and although they cost a bit new, you will fit and forget and they have a good re-sale value. These you can safely buy second hand.

Servo - Futaba 9602 (analogue) or 9650 (digital). Safest is the 9650 which works with any radion system, the 9602 will not work with Sanwa Exess and Futaba FASST systems.
Speedo - LRP SXX v2 or Hobbywing 120A v2.1 second hand as they both have a 1S booster built in and need no external booster or receiver pack. The Core RC 45 is great value new, as is the new Mardave G2 BL system; take the fan off to make them fit under the 12th body - you don't need it anyway. Avoid speedos that don't work with 1S cells as it just complicates the build and running of the car for a new driver.
Motor - a Dynamite, Reedy or Thunder Power motor are good value and work very well with 1S. Select the wind depending on the class you want to run.
Body - Protoform AMR is the only one to have; simples!!
Tyres - for 17.5 you need yellow rear and magenta front (CRC, Jaco or Parma) or Contact pink rear and soft pink front. The CRC/Jaco/parma tyres are faster. Get three sets and rotate them using a new set each run, and swapping them from one side to the other each time you use a pair. You will need to true them down from the packet sizes, but just anyone at Chesterfield to bring in a truer one night and they'll do it for you. Start at 44mm rear and 42mm front for either class.
Additive - CS High Grip is the only one to have - another simples! Full width rear and half width front (from the inside) is a good starting point.
Gears - use Kimbrough spur gears and nothing else, and RW pinions up to 47T for your 10.5 motor, and CRC pinions from 53 to 59T for a 17.5. Use an 80T spur for 10.5 and a 76T spur for 17.5. Once you have chosen your motor you will only need one spur gear and a couple of pinions to account for tyre wear, so the outlay is quite small.

It's a reasonable investment in total, but if you ever decide 12th is not for you, then it will sell very readily. Using cheap and cheerful stuff will give you problems eventually and will have no re-sale value as no other 12th racer will us it! Most of it you will find for sale on forums eventually, so you can get down to a good starting cost by buying the right kit at the right price. All this stuff is basically bulletproof, so buy with confidence.

Our shop of choice is AMC as Wim has absolutely everything you would need and is very helpful. There's a Shootout meeting at Chesterfield on 2nd September when there will be hoards of the best guys there and you can ask us all, and talk to Wim as he will be there with his shop.

If there's anything else you need, please come back and ask. Your best move is to go to Chesterfield first, find Mick or Kev and just ask. I hope you get going, because once you do you'll be hooked! HTH :)

Wish I had read this before buying a 1/12th on ebay!

[SlowOne]

Now you've got it can I help? Whilst second-hand cars aren't all they should be usually, we have the technology; we can rebuild them!! Let me know if there's anything you need to get going, and if you're coming to Chesterfield for the Shootout on 2nd September, take the car and we'll give it the once-over. HTH :)

[supastoxrc]

thanks mr slow,but i carnt make it this weekend somthing has come up,i will be there the week after are you?

[rclou]

As a newbie i'm trying to do this on a tight budget to make sure i like the class before committing big money.
Could some one explain to me what 17.5 blinky is? I think its something to do with brushless motors and lipos
Also as i'm on a tight budget and i have an older chassis could some one please tell me what the closest thing to 17.5 blinky is using brushed motors and Nimh cells.

Thanks
rclou

[moggy12]

As a newbie i'm trying to do this on a tight budget to make sure i like the class before committing big money.
Could some one explain to me what 17.5 blinky is? I think its something to do with brushless motors and lipos
Also as i'm on a tight budget and i have an older chassis could some one please tell me what the closest thing to 17.5 blinky is using brushed motors and Nimh cells.

Thanks
rclou 17.5 blinky is using a 17.5 brushless motor and having your speedo set to blinky mode ie no turbo never used brushed or nimh cells sorry

[Craig W]

As a newbie i'm trying to do this on a tight budget to make sure i like the class before committing big money.
Could some one explain to me what 17.5 blinky is? I think its something to do with brushless motors and lipos
Also as i'm on a tight budget and i have an older chassis could some one please tell me what the closest thing to 17.5 blinky is using brushed motors and Nimh cells.

Thanks
rclou

27 turn brushed motor

[RudolfXC]

Isn't brushless about half brushed as the old stock was 19 turn brushed and a long time ago 35 turn brushed?

[rclou]

So would a 27t brushed keep up with a 17.5 brushless?

[SlowOne]

thanks mr slow,but i carnt make it this weekend somthing has come up,i will be there the week after are you?No, sorry, only doing the Shootout this month. If you go up, ask for Kevin Creaser and he will find you someone to help I'm sure.

As a newbie i'm trying to do this on a tight budget to make sure i like the class before committing big money.
Could some one explain to me what 17.5 blinky is? I think its something to do with brushless motors and lipos
Also as i'm on a tight budget and i have an older chassis could some one please tell me what the closest thing to 17.5 blinky is using brushed motors and Nimh cells.

Thanks
rclou17.5 is the motor wind you need. For club racing choose any 17.5 motor you like, but for National racing the Dynamite/Thunder Power/ Reedy Sonic are the best of the readily available bunch. If you choose one of these and decide its not for you, it will have a resale value. 'Blinky' means that the speed control is not using any boosted timing - it is set to 'zero' timing. It's name comes from the fact that to show that this mode is selected, an LED is set to blink when the speedo is in neutral.

This means you can use the new range of Core and Mardave speedos which will plug straight in to your receiver and power all your electrics. They are around the £50 or less - remove the fan to fit under a 12th shell, you don't need it anyway. If you choose a secondhand speedo, choose an LRP v2 or Hobbywing 1S v2.1 as they will both work with a 1S cell. Others don't - beware!

If you are really on a budget, then a brushed motor is a viable option for club racing, though not legal for nationals. Motor of choice would be a 19T, with Corally Black and Checkpoint Money motors the ones to have. A quick line in the wanted column of your favourite forum should get you something for almost nothing. You will need a small brushed speedo for this, so ask if anyone has an MRT or LRP Quantum speedo they don't want (me, me!!) and the wanted column is again your friend!

You can run the brushless or brushed motor on a 1S LiPo. Depending on the chassis you have this might be the best option. A 1S LiPo is cheaper than four cells and the hardware to re-assemble them into a saddle pack. For a real budget, my choice would be:

Any 1S LiPo cell - new from a shop
A 19T brushed motor - secondhand from a wanted ad
A small brushed speedo - MRT or LRP Quantum - secondhand from a wanted ad.

If you couldn't get that lot for under £60, I'd be surprised. HTH :)

[rclou]

Thanks for the advice slowone, a lot to take in, but this is gonna be fun!
So can anyone help with a motor or esc?
Rclou

[RudolfXC]

Would the 19 turn still work OK on 3.7V instead of 4.8V and would a receiver pack or booster be needed?

[TrevCoult]

19 turn would be fine on 3.7 volts. Same criteria for a booster as everything else, depends on the speedo. Extremely unlikely to find an old brushed speedo that doesn't need a booster though.

Trev

[SlowOne]

Good point, Trev, and one I didn't factor in to my list above. No, there isn't a BR speedo you'll find that works below 4.8v without a booster or receiver pack.

Like I said, it all depends on what car you have. If you've got an early link car, or T-bar car, with the slots for four cells, the easiest option is to buy some NiMh cells and make them up to use in your car. If you don't, then use a 1S LiPo and a receiver pack or booster. If you need more help, come back on here. HTH :)

[furball85]

also very new to pan have picked up an associated R5.1 and got the lipo conversion i know i am going to be running in the 17.5 class just read about the micro servo how come a normal size is not used is that mainly due to room for electrics? also the car has a crc shock instead of the associated 1 will this make much if any difference?

[SlowOne]

Normal-sized servos will not fit, and the Savox mini has the output spindle in the wrong place and also will not fit the R5.

The CRC shock is fine; if anything it is the best shock on the market and one several of us use all the time. HTH :)

[furball85]

thanks helped quite abit :) i

[RudolfXC]

The 12R5.1 with lipo conversion has slots for the servo screws so the Savox will fit centrally.

By the way, I've got a Savox 1257 for sale with a spare set of gears and bearings.

[SlowOne]

Realising that this will p**s on Rudolf's parade, please avoid Savox servos in 12th. I've lost count of the number of "I've got a glitch/shutdown/brownout with my car... Savox servo..." posts I've seen on almost all forums, and the common denominator is the Savox. I've no idea why as they seem to work fine with 2S set-ups.

There's a reason why Futaba 9602/9650 servos are thicker than bugs on a bumper in 12th cars the world over - they fit, they work, they are very accurate and they are bulletproof. Far better to buy a second-hand Futaba (9602 if you have an analogue radio system; 9650 if you have a fully digital or HRS system) and never worry about any radio issues.

Try a wanted ad on here and be prepared to pay around £40 for a new-ish one, less for an older model. Expensive? Yes, but if you want to sell it on you'll get your money back. HTH :)