Yokomo Bmax2 M

[450kid]

Cheers are u running saddles? Cause I was thinking about using q stubby length ways to take a bit of weight of the rear and then maybe run it in the forward position?

[s22jgs]

yeh running saddles.
the car is very light as is. I think if u take even more out its gonna be very lively.

if u have too much rear end try more anti squat and raise the inner rear link.

[Rayzerp]

I found the car very light as standard and easily upset over bumps.....i will be running weight under lipo next time out

[MattK]

What rear wing are people running? also whats the difference of effect on the handleing between the two. Also how much do you cut out of the back of it?
Please help!:(

[discothesnake]

I'm running a JConcepts 6" wing. Not tried a Yok wing yet.

I need more on power turn in. Same as everyone else.

[s22jgs]

looking at the vids it would appear the testing has been done on tracks with low speed corners...

I think if you remove the front shock spacers ull notice a massive sifference. If thats not enough then drop the steering block by moving the shim.
If thats still not enough use more anti squat so you have more forward weight transfer.

I think the biggest improvement will be addition of weight

[Rayzerp]

If you remove spacers from the front shocks...surely that will give more down travel allowing the front to lift more on power and giving less steering?

[s22jgs]

If you remove spacers from the front shocks...surely that will give more down travel allowing the front to lift more on power and giving less steering?

in theory yes, but the flip side is by allowing more droop you gives the front wheels more chance of staying in contact with the ground.

if you find the rear still drops too much then add more anti squat

[Craig W]

hi guys

i have sent an email to hosoda at yokomo so see what he say to change

[highlander]

Hi all
first outing for mine at a local indoor carpet meet and the car was faultless.... the track was std carpet and wodden jumps
i used the base setup for link height and length....gear diff 3000 AE oil...
front shocks no3 piston 400cst oil losi red spring...
rear shocks no2 piston 450cst oil losi red spring... electrics as pic
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss12/leebennetts/CIMG3353.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss12/leebennetts/CIMG3352.jpg

[mekios]

Anyone tried it rear motor?
I am waiting on mine, but it will be "rear motor"-ed.

[s22jgs]

following on from the talk about steering.

I removed both spacers from front shocks, went long wheel base and also moved rear shocks to middle hole on the tower and i had bags of steering.

[Rayzerp]

following on from the talk about steering.

I removed both spacers from front shocks, went long wheel base and also moved rear shocks to middle hole on the tower and i had bags of steering.

Sounds good......are u still using the kit springs?

[s22jgs]

Sounds good......are u still using the kit springs?

yep.

500 core rc oil in front, 300 in rear

[450kid]

Car was better today on polished/carpet floor went longer on rear camber link with short wheel base and max spacer in anti squat, I was ok over q lap but not consistent. Need some more forward traction when slow (from nearly stopped) thought about lowering anti squat but it's so good over the bumps dint want to change it. Ant suggestions?

[highlander]

can anyone tell me what the overall castor/kickup is as i dont think it says in the manual
thanks in addvance lee

[mark-rc]

Ran the car at Southport indoor astro and also on carpet, the only change in set up on the carpet was Front Yellow mini pin, Front Losi green spring and Rear losi Pink spring. The weight in the front is a must! helps the car no end!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/Picture016_zps7a2446db.jpg

[s22jgs]

cool. How have u got 25g in the bulkhead. I managed to get 25g around the front of servo under steering rack and some on top of servo but not managed to get any further forward than this.

[mark-rc]

cool. How have u got 25g in the bulkhead. I managed to get 25g around the front of servo under steering rack and some on top of servo but not managed to get any further forward than this.

I melted and shaped some lead to fit inside the bulk head, It would be nice if someone could make a brass front lower lower suspension mount and a 30g brass weight to fit inside the front bulkhead like I have done with lead.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/6831f270-414f-43a6-96ca-79b5ab5ccc09_zpsc01c5b14.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/20130204_211327_zps2bbaf49c.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/20130204_211351_zps986f3174.jpg

[s22jgs]

aaaah cool a custom melt job.
Im sure someone will make some brass bits for it.

[smokes]

I am going model a bulk head up in cad and see how much weight I can add. just finished modelling up the chassis.

[s22jgs]

between 50 and 60g will be ideal i think

[spud31]

there is a product called liquid lead that can be heated in hot water and poured in

[mrspeedy]

Just a quick question ...

If the Yoke lacks a little steering how come no-one seems to run with the lipos long ways Durango style ? would be the obvious way to get a bit more up front without adding to overall weight or is there a reason ?

[mark-rc]

Just a quick question ...

If the Yoke lacks a little steering how come no-one seems to run with the lipos long ways Durango style ? would be the obvious way to get a bit more up front without adding to overall weight or is there a reason ?

I would say it's about balance, the car has very good rear end grip and you don't want to get more steering by taking it away from the rear. When I added the weight, the cars now feels very balanced front to rear.

[OneKiwi]

When buying the MM car do you get all the bits for the rear motor as well or will that have to be purchased later?

[Rayzerp]

All bits included in one box....mid or rear

[cryer-evo]

Hi all looking at getting one of these wot sort of spares should I get ?

[s22jgs]

probably just some arms, rear hubs, front hubs, steering blocks and rear shock shafts. Its pretty bullet proof

[smokes]

I am going model a bulk head up in cad and see how much weight I can add. just finished modelling up the chassis.

My only concern is the more weight you add the more stress you add to BM-002 FRpart.
Gonna dig the scales out to see what the weight increase will be

Current weight of a BM-300FL 8g Brass Version with lead pocket removed 52g

44g Increase.

[Rayzerp]

probably just some arms, rear hubs, front hubs, steering blocks and rear shock shafts. Its pretty bullet proof

Yep...after 2 meetings on a tight indoor track I have broken nothing. The car has no obvious weakness and all plastic seems much better quality than AE B4 stuff I moved from...arms are very strong :thumbsup:

[cryer-evo]

Ok cool looking at getting mine at the end of the month my old car is a losi 22 wich is very very strong car I have notices the piston holes in the front seem to be very big is this y most peaple are running 50/60 oil in front ?

[OneKiwi]

I have heard that the AE BB pistons are a direct fit, but can't confirm that to 100%

[J'MM'N]

Be good if they are, especially with the introduction on new ones.

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/latest_products/1075-NEW!_Factory_Team_Machined_and_Tapered_12mm_Shock_ Pistons!

[smokes]

Yep...after 2 meetings on a tight indoor track I have broken nothing. The car has no obvious weakness and all plastic seems much better quality than AE B4 stuff I moved from...arms are very strong :thumbsup:

Shame the moulding of the part is not better quality, tooling looks like it has been done on the cheap so much flash and dimensional tolerance error of 1mm between the front and rear chassis parts leaving a step where the parts meet......

[s22jgs]

Shame the moulding of the part is not better quality, tooling looks like it has been done on the cheap so much flash and dimensional tolerance error of 1mm between the front and rear chassis parts leaving a step where the parts meet......

bits of flashing are common on every make of car. Its no different from building a Tamiya kit where parts are still on the sprew. U just smooth them off with a blade.

not noticed any mismatches as you describe though. Got any pics?

[Rayzerp]

bits of flashing are common on every make of car. Its no different from building a Tamiya kit where parts are still on the sprew. U just smooth them off with a blade.

not noticed any mismatches as you describe though. Got any pics?

Yeah the parts clean up nicely.....i found everything fit together nicely and certainly have no gaps on any chassis parts :confused:

[ReneT]

Got two questions.
What would the rating on the blue springs be? (Or how to they compare to asso bb springs? Have quite a few of those)
The stock oil is #300. Is that CST? Or what WT does it compare to?

[s22jgs]

Got two questions.
What would the rating on the blue springs be? (Or how to they compare to asso bb springs? Have quite a few of those)
The stock oil is #300. Is that CST? Or what WT does it compare to?

stock oil is 400 mate. At least that's what came with mine. Its cst. Its very roughly 32-35wt i think

[s22jgs]

Got two questions.
What would the rating on the blue springs be? (Or how to they compare to asso bb springs? Have quite a few of those)
The stock oil is #300. Is that CST? Or what WT does it compare to?

sorry, the spring should fit, but i don't know much about ae rates.

[discothesnake]

Got two questions.
What would the rating on the blue springs be? (Or how to they compare to asso bb springs? Have quite a few of those)
The stock oil is #300. Is that CST? Or what WT does it compare to?

I cant find ratings anywhere for the 2wd springs. I have been running kit springs so far and trying a set up with those. Any big bore spring should fit. I use Yok, Kyosho and Losi springs with no issues.

As for shock oil, i never use the kit stuff. Better to stick with what you know.

Dave

[Rayzerp]

I cant find ratings anywhere for the 2wd springs. I have been running kit springs so far and trying a set up with those. Any big bore spring should fit. I use Yok, Kyosho and Losi springs with no issues.

As for shock oil, i never use the kit stuff. Better to stick with what you know.

Dave

I could not find up to date Yok spring ratings (On petitrc is from 2007) so I am using AE big bore springs which fit fine and give me a good starting point of reference and lots of options. Using AE oil too :thumbsup:

[mes]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/BigBorevsSmallBore/Chart.pdf

[discothesnake]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/BigBorevsSmallBore/Chart.pdf

I've got that chart too but it doesn't include the new 2wd springs. :(

[mes]

Maybe this (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/Yokomo_SpringsChart.pdf) helps. To be honest, I think it is hard to believe that Yokomo sells identical springs with different markings.

[discothesnake]

Yeah I agree. They have them marked for different cars but to be honest, they all fit so there shouldn't be a problem.

[Bastos]

From Sylvain...

New 2 Holes pistons for B-MAX2 & 4
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2935/o0480064012390102043.jpg

[cryer-evo]

http://eos.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/LRFri-NaotoVolkerCars.jpg

??? what tyres arfe these ?

[highlander]

??? what tyres arfe these ?

d-boots mate
they are the control rubber for EOS

[mes]

dBoots Blockpass in the front, Nanobyte in the rear,

[cryer-evo]

any one run them in the uk ? carpit / astro

[Balders]

Has anyone tried the narrow front end yet? :eh?:

[s22jgs]

any one run them in the uk ? carpit / astro

yes ive tried them. They work on carpet, not so good on slippy

[s22jgs]

Has anyone tried the narrow front end yet? :eh?:

not yet i haven't. I think its going to be more for small technical tracks or really low grip

[Balders]

not yet i haven't. I think its going to be more for small technical tracks or really low grip

Sounds perfect for my needs, I am suffering from turn issues. I see mb has the brace now in stock so maybe grab one and try it out. :)

[s22jgs]

Sounds perfect for my needs, I am suffering from turn issues. I see mb has the brace now in stock so maybe grab one and try it out. :)

try removing the spacers from the rear shocks to allow more weight transfer. Much better for me today. I also have 30g up front and the speedo behind the servo rather than the receiver

[Balders]

Good thinking on rear shocks, will try that next time out. I've got about 70gs up front at the moment with standard servo, with a thin strip of lead under lipos about 40gs towards front of car.

I need to put mini pins up front though, I started with cut staggers but they just aren't up to it. Moved to worn mp's and it was better.

I do find that the turning circle of the car doesn't seem great in low speed corners, how are other people finding it?

[Rayzerp]

60grams under lipo, 20 behind servo and 20 up front with cut staggers on astro and have had no problems with steering to be honest.....early days with car but steers at least as well as the Vega i had before...70 grams seems an awful lot of weight up front?

[highlander]

ive only run mine on carpet so far ..ended up playing with shock oil 450 cst in the rear /no internal spacers
400cst in the front /no internal spacers
minipins on the rear/ cut staggers on the front
(no added weight)
car was great plenty of turn in bite /mid and exit plenty too

[Gsxrturtle]

Thought i`d put my new ride up here
paint job by AK Customz
49617

[xfactor]

Hi all, still finishing off my bmax-2 but will post pics when finished,must say what a kit to build it just fell together and everything super smooth and free.

Just a thought guys/girls the steering issues some, not all are having i have noticed on the steering blocks/spindles there is a little stopper that hits the castor block try removing that this will give approx 2mm more turn in each way left to right.;)

[mekios]

I just started building my MR! Has anybody found issues with the idler saft wobling?

[450kid]

Yeah make sure you have put all the bearings in

[discothesnake]

Not wobbling but there is a small amount of play back and forth which can be shimmed out.

[mekios]

Well let me be more precise...
Everything rotates freely but every now and then there is a clicking sound.
I removed everything and put every gear back on its own. Diff didn't click. Top shaft didn't click. The idler did click.

[mes]

Did you check if there is any excess material on the idler gear? Still waiting for my MR conversion, but did not experience any issues with my "old" B-Max2.

[discothesnake]

If there is a clicking there is a chance it could be a dodgy bearing.

[mekios]

Thanx guys, it was a tiny piece of debris in the bearing.

Another question now. The kit oil is #400. Does this mean 400cst? I used Associated 32.5wt which is 388cst and it is way too heavy in the bench.

[mes]

Yes, should be 400 cst. Give the box set-up a try, IIRC I didn't have to change many thing for a properly handling car in Duisburg. :)

[mekios]

What surface is that?

[mes]

It is a really nice dirt track:
RCRT Duisburg e.V. (http://www.rcrt-duisburg.de/galerie/)

[mekios]

Very nice! It's the kind of dirt tracks we have in Greece.

http://rcdevil.smugmug.com/2012/ElectroChamps-2012-Day-1/i-pKdgWGJ/0/M/_MG_9889-M.jpg

[mes]

Great track! We used to have a dirt track in Troisdorf, too, but as only a few committed members in our smallish club are willing to maintain the track and weather in Germany unfortunately is not like in Greece, we had to move on to astroturf.

[s22jgs]

yeh 400cst

it really depends on what surface and air temp to whether you want to run that hard though.

in running the kit pistons, so 1.2 rear, and in running 200cst tomorrow with a 1.9 spring.

but that's because its going to be 5degrees and the track is really bumpy.

looking at alot of Japanese tracks they tend to be smooth so would explain the use of 400.

[mekios]

What is a 1.9 spring?
By the way, i have seen this comparison chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/Yokomo_SpringsChart.pdf

Does this mean that i blue rear springs on the b-max 2 are the same as orange rear springs in b-max 4?

[Reo]

Hi, i think it is to much play in rear arms.. the toe is changing pretty much when i rocking arms. Is it to bigholes for the pins? feels like it..

[s22jgs]

What is a 1.9 spring?
By the way, i have seen this comparison chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/Yokomo_SpringsChart.pdf

Does this mean that i blue rear springs on the b-max 2 are the same as orange rear springs in b-max 4?

I use the AE springs. 1.9 is the spring rate.

That chart is misleading. All it does is match the names (super soft) to colours. It doesn't have any relation to spring rates from what I could find. For example the bmax4 super soft is harder than the bmax2 super soft

[s22jgs]

Hi, i think it is to much play in rear arms.. the toe is changing pretty much when i rocking arms. Is it to bigholes for the pins? feels like it..

Have you fitted the front and rear inserts?

[Reo]

yes, i just now fitted bmax4 rear arms, and they are nice and tight, and free movement. just have to shave off 1mm on both sides of arm.

[Reo]

to much play i hub to.. option available in alu but to expencive. Try bmax4 hub to and see..

[Reo]

nice, bmax4 parts are much tighter! :) arms+hubs..

[mekios]

As i understand it, it is a philosophy of yokomo to have tight fronts without play and allow some play on the rear.
Even the B-Max 4 has some play on the rear lower arms.

[Reo]

well never heard that.. bmax4 arms and hubs are much tighter ennyway.

If it helps handling with much play that changes toe angle on and off power cant realy see that.

[xfactor]

Hi i also had play in rear arms (front to back) movement, but fitted a shim this gives extra tuning as you can alter the shim to change wheelbase via the arms this is the same as tamiya and kyosho buggies ;)

[Reo]

this was not front\back movment.. sideways..

[discothesnake]

I have these issues also. Not sure how much it troubles handling tho.

[MattK]

mine had small play in the arm but mainly forwards and backwards, but I cant really see it will make any difference to how the car handles on offroad tracks. (or with my driving)
Probably more important the arms are free im my opinion.:)

[s22jgs]

mine had small play in the arm but mainly forwards and backwards, but I cant really see it will make any difference to how the car handles on offroad tracks. (or with my driving)
Probably more important the arms are free im my opinion.:)

there is forward backward movement which is due to antisquat. If u run 0 degrees u will have little to no play. By running antisquat you effectively lengthen the hinge pin. If you are worried about it just shim it out.

its not a design or manufacturing fault, its just maths and angles.

i beleive the Durango manual said to shim when runni g more anti squat. I don't think its an issue if u do or not though. When moving forward the arms will always be pushed back and wont move forward unless you go in reverse

[s22jgs]

mine had small play in the arm but mainly forwards and backwards, but I cant really see it will make any difference to how the car handles on offroad tracks. (or with my driving)
Probably more important the arms are free im my opinion.:)

its caused by anti squat angles effectively lengthening the hinge pin. Its not a design or manufacturing fault, just maths and angles. If you don't like it just shim it out, but to be honest once the car is rolling they will settle backwards and wont move forwards unless u hit reverse

[GML]

It is a really nice dirt track:
RCRT Duisburg e.V. (http://www.rcrt-duisburg.de/galerie/)

Do you mean that B-max2 Mid is good on dirt tracks ?

[MattK]

Does anyone know if the b4 spur gears fit as a direct replacement? I am trying to gear the car down but the smallest pinion that fits with the standard spur is 20tooth so looking at larger spur as an alternative. Also how expensive are the slipper pads!!!! :o
Any help appreciated :)

[mes]

B4 spur gears and slipper pads are a direct fit for the B-Max2. For the B-Max4, slipper pads are a direct replacement, but spur gears are different as their centre hole is bigger.

[MattK]

Thanks. I knew the 4wd spurs were different.
First time yokomo owner and absolutely love it!!
:drool:

[mekios]

Does anybody else think that the steering rack is weak? It seems really thin.

[Rayzerp]

Does anybody else think that the steering rack is weak? It seems really thin.

Not really....it does not stand out to me as a weak point...I quess time will tell!!:lol:

[discothesnake]

I think it should be fine. It's well protected and you have your servo saver.

[mes]

Didn't experience any problems in one season of racing.

[mekios]

I think it should be fine. It's well protected and you have your servo saver.

I didn't put the saver on! :cry:

[s22jgs]

I didn't put the saver on! :cry:

Servo saver isn't needed. You have the flex of the plastic parts to give forgiveness. I've not run a saver in over 2 years and not done a servo.

Personally I just see it as another point of failure

[jonathan may]

Hi I have a rb6 but am nor getting on with it has any one here changed from the rb6 to the yokomo if so what do you think worth the change or not

[smokes]

Still building the bmax 2 MR can someone tell me what pitch the kit spur is is 48d.p or module 0.8?
Diff went together well but what balls are used in diff steel or carbide.

The instruction don't tell you to lubricate the gears in this correct?
I used finish line X-country dry oil on them will this be okay?
Threading the ball joints was eas,y too easy compared to other kits do they pop off? or strip the thread?#Just have to build theshocks do you use green slime on the o-rings?

[sheddy]

Still building the bmax 2 MR can someone tell me what pitch the kit spur is is 48d.p or module 0.8?
Diff went together well but what balls are used in diff steel or carbide.

The instruction don't tell you to lubricate the gears in this correct?
I used finish line X-country dry oil on them will this be okay?
Threading the ball joints was eas,y too easy compared to other kits do they pop off? or strip the thread?#Just have to build theshocks do you use green slime on the o-rings?

I found the front camber links kept moving drastically after each run, as a quick fix at a meeting I put on associated turnbuckles with rpm cups. Has not moved since.

Also I didnt put any oil/grease on the gearbox internals as per the manual. It runs so quiet. And I used green slime on the shock orings

[mekios]

Still building the bmax 2 MR can someone tell me what pitch the kit spur is is 48d.p or module 0.8?
Diff went together well but what balls are used in diff steel or carbide.

The instruction don't tell you to lubricate the gears in this correct?
I used finish line X-country dry oil on them will this be okay?
Threading the ball joints was eas,y too easy compared to other kits do they pop off? or strip the thread?#Just have to build theshocks do you use green slime on the o-rings?

48pitch and the balls are tungsten covered carbide.

[mes]

My new diff doesn't have any balls at all! :p

[highlander]

My new diff doesn't have any balls at all! :p


hee hee
my gear diff has been working a treat on carpet no balls for me too

[jonathan may]

what the parts no for the gear diff

[mes]

B2-500GS

[s22jgs]

My gear diff ate itself inside lol.

Gonna back to ball diff and found it quicker anyway

[highlander]

My gear diff ate itself inside lol.

Gonna back to ball diff and found it quicker anyway

Steve what wt oil were you running when she poped .. running 3000 at the mo

ANY ONE FROM THE MB MODELS / YOKO POSSY GOING TO THE LAST SILVERSTONE ROUND ON THE 9th ... would be great to put names to faces
cheers lee

[s22jgs]

Steve what wt oil were you running when she poped .. running 3000 at the mo

ANY ONE FROM THE MB MODELS / YOKO POSSY GOING TO THE LAST SILVERSTONE ROUND ON THE 9th ... would be great to put names to faces
cheers lee

800cst mate

I had issues with the gear diff though. Even without oil it was way too tight, felt like 50k oil so I removed the tiny shim under the pins. Fixed the tightness but may have caused the gears to eat themselves.

I think the issue is the casing being slightly too large making the outlive tight. A better solution may have been to shave half a mm off the outside casing where it meets the outdrive

[Juicy74]

What tires would you guys recommend on this car for a clay track? Was looking at schumacher tires and they look interesting but no one i know has any experience with them.

[mes]

Schumacher have no clay tyres. I mostly use Pro-Line Holeshots/Wide Ribs on clay, but AKA, JConcepts and Sweep also make great tyres. Check out what the other drivers at your track put on their rides. ;)

[s22jgs]

What tires would you guys recommend on this car for a clay track? Was looking at schumacher tires and they look interesting but no one i know has any experience with them.

If it helps, I believe the base setup is for clay and yokomo use dboots tyres

[cryer-evo]

Is there a good bass set up for indoor carpet/ astro hi grip ? Building mine up tonight

[s22jgs]

Is there a good bass set up for indoor carpet/ astro hi grip ? Building mine up tonight

Check mine from barham on 17 Feb I think it is on the mb yoko Facebook page.
That's full astro and was very good. I found the front had a little too much bite in slower twisty sections but was awesome on faster and sweeper type corners.

[cryer-evo]

Ok will youse that as my bass setting then do you think my be lousing a wosher of the inside front ball stud might of helped ?

[smokes]

800cst mate

I had issues with the gear diff though. Even without oil it was way too tight, felt like 50k oil so I removed the tiny shim under the pins. Fixed the tightness but may have caused the gears to eat themselves.

I think the issue is the casing being slightly too large making the outlive tight. A better solution may have been to shave half a mm off the outside casing where it meets the outdrive

If you have problems with the parts e-mail support@teamyokomo.com

[s22jgs]

Ok will youse that as my bass setting then do you think my be lousing a wosher of the inside front ball stud might of helped ?

That would increase the steeeing further

[Juicy74]

Schumacher doesn't have clay tires? Why not?

[Juicy74]

If it helps, I believe the base setup is for clay and yokomo use dboots tyres

dBoots have some interesting tires but they dont' have anything under clay. But I'm guessing multibyte or nanobytes might be a good choice?

[discothesnake]

Schumacher doesn't have clay tires? Why not?

Schumacher are a British company and make tyres for the British/European market. They make tyres to run on astro and grass. There is not much clay racing over here.

JConcepts, Proline etc do not make tyres for astro so it is just catering to your audience.

[jonathan may]

any good carpet setups out there

[Juicy74]

Schumacher are a British company and make tyres for the British/European market. They make tyres to run on astro and grass. There is not much clay racing over here.

JConcepts, Proline etc do not make tyres for astro so it is just catering to your audience.

Ahhhh.... Makes sense.

[PeterC]

Hi, I just bought one of these and can not wait to build it. I haven't found a great deal of information or support for this buggy. Looks like only a small group of people are running it.

Do you have any tips to help me with the assembly or durability? Any help is appreciated.:D

[mes]

As Yokomo was neglected in Europe and US the last few years it is no wonder that the cars are a relatively rare sight. I've run the original B-Max2 last season and found it to be the most durable and easy to drive car I ever had in twenty years of RC - I am getting old! :p.
With the recent release of the MR version, the car will become even more popular among racers and lazy guys (optional gear diff... ;) ). It will be interesting to see what the Yokomo guys have up their sleeves for the worlds this year.

[zzztech]

The Bmax2 MR is such a versatile car. I've tried mid motor with saddle, will also fit shorty side way, and now I converted to rear motor, and it fits a full stick even with a full sized servo. Feels really good now on outdoor clay :)

[Juicy74]

Can someone tell me what do the narrow suspension mounts do? The manual doesn't say anything. Sorry if its a dumb question, newbie here. :D

Thanks!

[zzztech]

Can someone tell me what do the narrow suspension mounts do? The manual doesn't say anything. Sorry if its a dumb question, newbie here. :D

Thanks!

Narrower width up front will help if your buggy is too loose. But its not the first thing you'd want to do.

[s22jgs]

Can someone tell me what do the narrow suspension mounts do? The manual doesn't say anything. Sorry if its a dumb question, newbie here. :D

Thanks!

Give you a smaller front track width making the car more nimble and responsive on the front end.

[mes]

I am about to try the narrow front end for the first time at the NRW-Offroad-Cup race in Dortmund (http://www.mcdortmund.net)on 11 April. Car turns on a dime in my living room. :thumbsup:

[Juicy74]

Thanks for the replies guys... however as I understand it, both answers seem to be opposite of each other?

"help if your buggy is too loose" which means the narrow mounts should reduce steering response?

"making the car more nimble and responsive on the front end" meaning it should increase steering response?

[mekios]

I have a question for those who have build the car in Rear Motor or anyone who wants to answer.
Speedo on the shelf above the battery or on the side? I mounted it on the side but it's a really tight fit (i have the HW V3 which is a rather small speedo) exposing the speedo on the side.
Judging by the space on the shelf it will be a hard job getting the wirring done.

So, what's your opinion and/or suggestion? (Photos are more than welcome :woot:)

[Bastos]

If you have to choose a good configuration for rear motor, it is that one :
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3300/2v6p6537.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/2v6p6537.jpg/)

Speedo/Shorty battery/Reicever/Servo on line...( I haven't got photos of mine...winter period...Mid motor rules :) )

Rear motor is the king on slippery tracks...with the shorty battery centered.
It depend on which battery you are using...but the Bmax2 works well "light" with shorty battery.

[Stringerhot]

following on from the talk about steering.

I removed both spacers from front shocks, went long wheel base and also moved rear shocks to middle hole on the tower and i had bags of steering.

Hi Steve this set up you've used what surface was it on polished floor?carpet

[smokes]

Hi, I just bought one of these and can not wait to build it. I haven't found a great deal of information or support for this buggy. Looks like only a small group of people are running it.

Do you have any tips to help me with the assembly or durability? Any help is appreciated.:D

Seem be be a fair amount of drivers running them at batley. Just build as per kit instructions and run it, get the ae fron axles.

[OneKiwi]

Would the wheel attachments from a durango 210 fronts/rears work?

[AndyG]

front - yes, straight fit.

Rears - no. After you've put the TD / Tresrey 14mm hex onto the driveshaft you've a) not got enough thread coming through the wheel to get a nut on, and b) you've got a big gap between the hex and the hub - the drive shaft therefore floats.

Wonder if a TD driveshaft would work?

[s22jgs]

Hi Steve this set up you've used what surface was it on polished floor?carpet

not running that anymore mate

[jonathan may]

what springs are a good starting point for carpet

[s22jgs]

what springs are a good starting point for carpet

Run it kit first

[zzztech]

Thanks for the replies guys... however as I understand it, both answers seem to be opposite of each other?

"help if your buggy is too loose" which means the narrow mounts should reduce steering response?

"making the car more nimble and responsive on the front end" meaning it should increase steering response?

Your rear end will be more stable compared to the front end after narrowing front.

[jonathan may]

What shock oil and pistons are peeps using. I have number 2 piston 35w oil and yokomo blue spring but it feels far to soft

[highlander]

What shock oil and pistons are peeps using. I have number 2 piston 35w oil and yokomo blue spring but it feels far to soft


john just use the std set up as Steve has said....

you havent even run the car yet

start with the kit setup its a fair allround starting point thats why yoko put it to the kit................

[PeterC]

So I've built the kit up and had a stellar time. Everything drops in nicely with no hand fitting required. :thumbsup:

This is my first offroad car. My experience is only limited to mod 1/10 sedan so I'm planning to run 17.5 non-timing offroad in rear motor configuration.

My questions:

Seeing how this car is marketed primarily in MR configuration, how does the base setup fare when running in rear motor config?
For instance, I've looked at the Yatabe setup for clay and although it is in MR config, the shock oil is significantly lower viscosity (22.5wt vs stock 400cst).

What kind of FDR should I be looking at for 17.5 non-timing? (Motor: Reedy Sonic)

Background:
I'm going to be running the car in southern California mainly at 2 tracks:

1) WCRC(Site of 2013 Reedy Race of Champions)
-indoor
-hard packed clay
-medium to high traction
2)IERC
-indoor
-medium packed clay known to clog tires
-low to medium traction

Per recommendations from fellow racers, I've mounted the following tires that will work at both tracks:
-Rear Proline Suburb MC
-AKA Red insert
-Front Proline Scrubs MC
-AKA Red insert

Any setup and driving tips no matter how seemingly small or insignificant are more than welcome and appreciated! Please share your knowledge here in or PM. I am eager to learn from all of you.

thanks:)

[J'MM'N]

As your in California these two threads may be of help to you.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/512828-yokomo-b-max2-buggy-thread.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/692174-yokomo-b-max2-mr-rs.html

[PeterC]

As your in California these two threads may be of help to you.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/512828-yokomo-b-max2-buggy-thread.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/692174-yokomo-b-max2-mr-rs.html


Thanks! I have looked at those threads too!

[mes]

IIRC I used 72/28 as a starting point for my 17.5 motor. Cannot comment on California tracks, but on clay I mostly use red springs in the front, blues in the rear. Stock oil is quite ok, give it a try!

[zzztech]

I too vouch for the red spring in front. The stock front springs are too soft.
I have 60wt Losi oil in front with the 6 holes pistons and felt good. tried 450cst and didn't like it. Rear is 350cst oil

[s22jgs]

It really depends on track. Oil and springs that work on one track won't elsewhere so don't get too hung up on what others are running. Its a new car and people have different styles. The best example of this is the setups of the worlds top boys. Try one and you might hate it.

The best thing you can do is go to track with a range of oils and springs and just try different things

[PeterC]

IIRC I used 72/28 as a starting point for my 17.5 motor. Cannot comment on California tracks, but on clay I mostly use red springs in the front, blues in the rear. Stock oil is quite ok, give it a try!

Thank you. I did order a set of red fronts yesterday as well as another kit for my friend. We also got your recommended bmax4 wheel spacer and B4 rear hex.

I too vouch for the red spring in front. The stock front springs are too soft.
I have 60wt Losi oil in front with the 6 holes pistons and felt good. tried 450cst and didn't like it. Rear is 350cst oil

Which piston? The black or white? Taper side up or down? 1.0mm vs 1.1mm. I have only one pair of the black pistons, last one they had. How did they affect the front end?

It really depends on track. Oil and springs that work on one track won't elsewhere so don't get too hung up on what others are running. Its a new car and people have different styles. The best example of this is the setups of the worlds top boys. Try one and you might hate it.

The best thing you can do is go to track with a range of oils and springs and just try different things

Plan to do just that but I would like the best starting point and go from there so I can save setup time and concentrate on driving. I want to make sure the car is not totally undrivable straight out of the box. We have two kits now and we're going to test back to back different things. We are excited!

[PeterC]

Has anyone run MR and RS back to back on the same clay base track? What characteristics did you notice between the two?

We are debating building up one buggy RS style and the other MR but that would mean sacrificing one brand new body on the configuration that doesn't end up working.

[mes]

If your clay track includes tight turns, you'll be able to carry more speed through them with mid motor. If it is a large clay track with low traction, go for rear motor. Choosing between both configurations also depends on your style of driving.
As the outdoor season in our region will only begin in late April, I haven't had a chance to test mid motor on clay, but for my driving style it should work.

[s22jgs]

Thank you. I did order a set of red fronts yesterday as well as another kit for my friend. We also got your recommended bmax4 wheel spacer and B4 rear hex.



Which piston? The black or white? Taper side up or down? 1.0mm vs 1.1mm. I have only one pair of the black pistons, last one they had. How did they affect the front end?



Plan to do just that but I would like the best starting point and go from there so I can save setup time and concentrate on driving. I want to make sure the car is not totally undrivable straight out of the box. We have two kits now and we're going to test back to back different things. We are excited!

Just try it as kit first. You need to understand how the car works and why its setup as is before you can start improving it to your style and track.

Kit springs are fine

[cryer-evo]

took my bmax2 mr out today at yatton very happy with it need a bit more stering whent for longer link on front and no limitters in shocks kit springs and whent from 42.5 losi oil to 32.5 oil in front all helped and 25g at the front getting where i wont it think next time out will take the spacer out from the inside front link
allso think i seen it on here will lowering the stiering hub help ? spacer on top ?

[Bastos]

New chassis is coming...
There are new stiffners on the internal edge of the chassis...
And looking the others photos of redrc... The nose is also improved.


http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/1324/satnaotoyokomo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/satnaotoyokomo4.jpg/)

[cryer-evo]

New chassis is coming...
There are new stiffners on the internal edge of the chassis...
And looking the others photos of redrc... The nose is also improved.


http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/1324/satnaotoyokomo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/satnaotoyokomo4.jpg/)

?? New chassis this just to stiffen it up our are peaple braking them ??

[smokes]

less flexy to take adavantage of the smoother clay tracks

[Tom3012]

Alloy shock caps too?

[Bastos]

?? New chassis this just to stiffen it up our are peaple braking them ??

I never break and never heard that this chassis can break...perhaps the term of "nose" is not right...the "front" of the chassis got little things for improvement.

As you say, just to stiffen it...
http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Sat-NaotoYokomo-2.jpg

[Bastos]

Alloy shock caps too?

Associated Bigbore shocks...

[discothesnake]

Associated Bigbore shocks...


Mmmm....that's not good.

[jonathan may]

Mmmm....that's not good.
indeed im going to try ae bigbore pistons they are a perfect fit in the yokomo shocks

[cryer-evo]

As you say, just to stiffen it... :D.So is anyone making front end waights for this car yet ? could do with a 35g waight that would fit in the front nose :)

[jonathan may]

As you say, just to stiffen it... :D.So is anyone making front end waights for this car yet ? could do with a 35g waight that would fit in the front nose :)

been thinking about using some putty like wheel balance putty with some lead inside ? that stuff seems to stay in place

[discostu]

Associated Bigbore shocks...

he had them on the 4wd too!

[cryer-evo]

any one know if the plastic would stand the heat of melted lead ?

[discothesnake]

indeed im going to try ae bigbore pistons they are a perfect fit in the yokomo shocks

Yeah I've ordered some for my 4wd too.

[jonathan may]

any one know if the plastic would stand the heat of melted lead ?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k8CskYWv9I

[mekios]

I never break and never heard that this chassis can break...perhaps the term of "nose" is not right...the "front" of the chassis got little things for improvement.

As you say, just to stiffen it...
http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Sat-NaotoYokomo-2.jpg

It's not a chassis. It's some form of bronze weight i think, like under-servo weight.

[Tom3012]

Dont worry guys, im working on getting some weight in the front ;)

[J'MM'N]

The plate goes right back to the speedo, so I'm wondering if it acting as a stiffener as well, bit like the carbon one he had on his B-Max4.

Although the biggest problem with flex is around the battery compartment and a lot of this is relying on the battery clamp taking the flex out. Which is not the perfect answer and where I much prefer the stiffness of my old B-Max2 chassis, but that's RM only:(

Also he has six ally nuts either side of the saddle pack and at the back of the chassis, as though a plate could possibly be bolted below the chassis.

The servo also looks to be mounted further back.

A lot of questions, but he does do a lot of wacky experiments:rolleyes:

[mekios]

Those ally nuts are where the RM battery sidepods bolt on. So maybe he is having them so he can bolt the holes to not let dirt in... maybe...
I wouldn't pay much attention to all this madness though. He is one of a kind driver racing in a one of a kind track with insane amounts of traction.

[discothesnake]

I don't think the servo is further back. As he's using a full size servo there wouldn't be the room. I think the front bulkhead has been modified to make clearance for the servo horn. There is very little room to put weight under the servo hence the mod.

I think.....:blush:

[mekios]

What bothers me is this little piece of plastic. It isnt there in my car...

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/43397636/wte9md1h.jpg

[mes]

I wouldn't look for prototype parts on his 2WD, as there are many pictures around. However, there are no chassis shots at all of his 4WD ride; at least the shock towers are very different to what we all are used to... ;)
As for the weight in the front: Saddle pack-sized brass plates are a perfect fit under the Rx/ESC, at least if you use a low profile servo.

[ScottyP]

However, there are no chassis shots at all of his 4WD ride; at least the shock towers are very different to what we all are used to... ;)


His 4wd had a double deck carbon chassis, same as B44.

[Rayzerp]

indeed im going to try ae bigbore pistons they are a perfect fit in the yokomo shocks

Ran them in my car last time out and felt much better...particularly at the rear. Yok shocks in general seem high quaility though so why swap completely to AE?

[mes]

His 4wd had a double deck carbon chassis, same as B44.

How interesting!

[J'MM'N]

What bothers me is this little piece of plastic. It isnt there in my car...


The rib from the bulkhead to battery post has a much more prominent kink than the old one, where the caps are there is no longer a rib and the additional strengthening rib running parallel to saddle tray. Totally new chassis, although the most flex has still got to be between front and rear of battery tray.

[Bastos]

His 4wd had a double deck carbon chassis, same as B44.

Where have you heard that ?...

Next EOS race, Naoto will be there...perhaps we will see something

[Bastos]

Totally new chassis, although the most flex has still got to be between front and rear of battery tray.

I'm agree...

[ScottyP]

Where have you heard that ?...

Next EOS race, Naoto will be there...perhaps we will see something

Heard it directly from someone who saw the car at Cactus.

I also understand that the use of AE shocks was simply due to lack of testing time with their own shocks on US style tracks.

[mes]

Makes sense.:)

[cryer-evo]

took my bmax2 mr out at yatton for its first outing and after changing some things im very very happey with it took spacers out from under the iner link front and put losi orange spring on front with losi 32.5 oil no 2 piston and rear losi pink spring and losi 27.5 oil no 3 piston and added 45g up front :thumbsup:

[cryer-evo]

any one run with lipo down the middle ? and wots your thought ?

[cryer-evo]

TQ and a final win at yatton indoor club race for eggs with the bmax2 couldnt be any happier with this car car is so planted it fills like I'm going slow but clearly I'm not :-)

[discothesnake]

TQ and a final win at yatton indoor club race for eggs with the bmax2 couldnt be any happier with this car car is so planted it fills like I'm going slow but clearly I'm not :-)

Was that with your lipos down the middle?

[cryer-evo]

No saddle pack normal place not tryed down centre yet

[wouter.z]

first outing today with the yok in rear config, must say I'am really happy with the car.

We race on a very low traction Clay track and the car is very balanced especially after the added weight behind the battery. Also changed the pistons from front/rear 2/3 to 1/2 that made a big difference also.
Car still needs some work but really impressive for a first race meeting.

[smokes]

Dose Any one have any idea what to change on the kit setup to stop the rear end kicking out on the exits on a dusty astro turf.

using Shumacher Yellow mini spike rear blue insert
Schumacher Yellow narrow cut stagger ribs no insert front

Mid rear Config

[mekios]

What do you mean kicking out?
I had some problems on a same surface, with the end swinging on power exiting corners. I solved it with softer springs and tighter diff (ball diff).

[blue_pinky]

Dose Any one have any idea what to change on the kit setup to stop the rear end kicking out on the exits on a dusty astro turf.

using Shumacher Yellow mini spike rear blue insert
Schumacher Yellow narrow cut stagger ribs no insert front

Mid rear Config

Hi...I spent yesterday trying to figure this out too...on very similar track conditions by the sounds of it. I made progress, but not sure I'm 100% there yet.

I built the car using a bit of the Naoto setup from EOS, that setup really isn't meant for our tracks though, and a fair bit of a Maritime setup that got posted on Facebook, but have been gradually been adjusting things according to my own experience of it.

Will try and get my full setup posted at some point, see if it gives you some ideas.

But as a clue.....

Front end
#2 Pistons
AE 35wt oil
AE Yellow BB springs (stiffer than Yokomo X Reds, which are stiffer than kit!)
2 x limiters
Outer hole on tower, middle hole on wishbones
Ride height approx 20mm (not accurately measured!)

Rear End
#1 Pistons
AE 30wt oil
Yokomo blue long (kit) springs
2 x limiters
Inner hole on tower, middle hole on wishbones
Ride height approx 20mm (not accurately measured!)

Weight balance...
605g Front...30g under servo, 20g in front of servo
1039g Rear...75g under lipo

Tyres
New (at start of day) yellow low profile cut staggers
New (at start of day) yellow mini spikes, dboots medium (so chubby!) inserts

I've been using my old centro and it's setup as another reference point for this as it's not dissimilar in a lot of respects (other than the chassis obviously!).

I did some playing with the rear camber link...ended up with inner ball stud on outer holes (so short link), no spacers. Moving it out and down seemed to help catch the rear end on power off the apex's.

It still wasn't totally right by the end of the day, but it's pretty close now I think. Compared to other cars, I'm wondering if track conditions, tyre choice and my throttle control were factors in the loose rear end! At least one of the other cars running ahead of me was on minipins, which seemed to be an advantage.

I qualified 4th and finished 3rd in the A at WORM with that, and was on good pace for me, and running right on pace with the leaders through the day. Comparable to the Centro on a well developed setup when I last ran that, and this was only my first outing with the Bmax2 outdoors, so VERY happy with how it went!! :thumbsup:

Will post back when I get the full setup on the sheet.

[smokes]

where did you get the 74g of weight from? I am not sure I need more weight as it turns very well without it.


Current setup

Front

Schumacher Cut staggers on Narrow wheels no foam (new)

Blue kit springs

60WT 800cst associated oil (stopped the front end tramping over the ruts and bumps)

Piston as Yokomo no 2 Taper facing the top of shock

Spacers x2

Middle hole in shock tower
Middle hole in wishbone
Camber link Middle hole one spacer inner hole of the caster block

ride height wishbones level

Camber 1 deg

Toe 2 deg

Rear

Schumacher Yellow Mini pins blue foams (new)

Blue kit springs

400 cst yokomo oil

Piston as Yokomo no 3 Taper facing the bottom of shock

Spacers x2

Middle hole in shock tower
Middle hole in wishbone
Camber link Inner hole one spacer inner hole of the hub

ride height diveshafts level

Supension bush set at 3

2 degrees of anti squat.

2 degrees

No additional weight

Car was great when there was grip
But if you didn't straighten the wheels on and dusty exit before applying throttle it would drift the rear end out.

Normally it should push wide when you apply the throttle on the apex.

I think i may need to trim the outer row of minipins and see if this helps.

And use associated 27.5 in the rear as it feel a little to stiff.

And play around with my speed controller settings.

If I can stop the rear sliding out when I barely touch the throttle I can get a decent time out of the car.

[luniemiester]

I found increasing the rear toe in to 4 degrees made a big difference as well as 2 degrees anti squat instead of 1. Other things to try are shortening the wheelbase both front and rear

[blue_pinky]

Smokes, what kind of track was that setup for?

The 75g weight I put under lipo's was a thin sheet of lead. Not as pretty as brass....but far cheaper ;)

[smokes]

Batley outdoors

[blue_pinky]

Mmm...ok...interesting then! :)

Well the extra weight I put in was because at Caldicot indoor...running on medium/high grip carpet and a fair bit of polished floor the car lacked grip all round on the slippy bits without it. The extra weight all round helped a lot with that, although I have changed the damping dramatically since then, so may try a lighter car and see what it does now.

The other factor that was based on was both the other mid motor cars I've ever owned (X6 & Centro) have both needed to get up to the 1600-1700g weight mark to get balanced handling, and I've heard the Durango is that kind of weight without adding any extra weight, so figured it was a fair shout that this car could also benefit from it.

So far it has...but more testing as I/we develop the setup will prove or disprove that for sure!

[cryer-evo]

Blue-pinky are you running long rear link ? I have fond it good for rear end grip to the pont where if I get on the gas mid corner it will start to push wide Insted of spin also run 2deg camber on the rear and no spacers in rear our front shocks

[smokes]

Long link make the rear more stable. but slower to rotate.

I think more weight would be benifical as it would give more initial exit grip but can't afford sheet lead or brass weights till the next paycheck to find out.

What springs fit the big bores beside the yokomo and associated springs?

[xfactor]

Springs that fit are losi,kyosho,associated and durango all 12mm springs.

[smokes]

what brand of spring work best in the uk?

[mes]

Found this 50g bulkhead on www.my-yokomo.fr:
http://www.my-yokomo.fr/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/CIMG1614-300x225.jpg

Where? When? How much?

[cornishboy176]

I cant see why people are throwing loads of weight in the front of these?

[J'MM'N]

Yes Mes, I came across it this morning, all it says is that its been manufactured by a German racer.

[J'MM'N]

A lot of people add the extra weight up front for extra steering, which I've never found to be a problem. I have added 34g up front though and found the front end to be a lot more stable.

At Kidderminster this weekend took my car to scrutineering only to find it 30g under weight:o

[cornishboy176]

The only weight i am running is a 79g under lipo weight (and thats only because i am running shorty lipos),Running at Tiverton yesterday our only concern was the front lifting going down the straight (slightly downhill) but we had no problems all day,bags of grip all round,really pleased with how it went, but, I cant seem to work out some set ups i have seen are 50/60 wt oil up front and shed loads of weight up front,correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't that defeat the object :confused:

[luniemiester]

I'm running 20g up front purely to help keep the nose down while accelerating and 55g under the lipos to help make the weight limit.

As regards the heavy front shock oils I've gone back to more conventional oils front and rear since I've gone back outside as the tracks are more bumpy and undulating. The heavy oils are more for indoor smooth tracks with high grip as they help slow the cars reactions down more in my opinion

[smokes]

Are the white ball cups stronger than the black
version?

[jonathan may]

I was using 35wt front and 20wt rear with the standard piston it felt very nice load or steering and rear grip on wet grass and astro

[discothesnake]

Are the white ball cups stronger than the black
version?

Just the same.

[discothesnake]

A lot of people add the extra weight up front for extra steering, which I've never found to be a problem. I have added 34g up front though and found the front end to be a lot more stable.

At Kidderminster this weekend took my car to scrutineering only to find it 30g under weight:o

Everyone likes their car handling differently. It's all personal preference.

[mekios]

Car with shorty is underweight around 30 grams. Found it too myself in scrutineering in Greek Nats.
I think the car has a lot of weight up front by itself (to be precise it has more weight distributed forward than other cars). It was slightly nosediving on me without any weight added. I don't think adding weight helps heal any issue with steering as far i have tested the BMax.

[cryer-evo]

Found this 50g bulkhead on www.my-yokomo.fr:
http://www.my-yokomo.fr/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/CIMG1614-300x225.jpg

Where? When? How much?

I won't one where can I get my hands on one ??????

[Sylvain]

My EOS Round4 in Dortmund setup...
http://www.fichier-pdf.fr/2013/04/18/bmax2-mr-setting-sheet-eos-round4-dortmund/

[smokes]

how are you getting weight under the lipo?

thanks

[mes]

1.5 mm brass plates just fit without changes, for thicker plates or batteries you can lift the battery brace by adding spacers.

[smokes]

has anyone tried the long wheel base setting. I found it made the car better over bumps.

[zzztech]

4400mah shorty pack in RM config is 50g underweight, even with 15g weight up front bulkhead, but it is perfectly legal with a 6000 stick pack

[mekios]

Practiced yesterday on dirt track, in RM configuration. The track was loose and bumpy but the BMAX2 was really planted.
The only problem i had was that dirt entered the diff case... It seems that the entry point was the joint of the two halves on the slope that goes from the wing mount to the rear bracket mount. I think it's a mold issue that leaves a small gap. Probably some grease would stop dirt from entering. It can be an issue because dust found it's way into the diff (it was ruined after 6-7 packs).

[smokes]

rudebits rb6 78g lipo saddle pack weight drops striaght in with no mods to the battery holder.

[mes]

For those of you who wondered if the old B-Max2 body fits the MR: Yes it does; not a perfect fit but it fits.

[Bastos]

Hi,

If somebody is interesting, "RustiDesign" ( Owner Antoine ROSSETTI ) made protections for the new Aluminium Bmax2MR chassis.

http://www.rustidesign.com/produits/produit.php?produit_code=RC-PROTEC#

The protection is delivered with a little tutorial ( ...How to clean your chassis...etc )
As shown below, the countersunk are pre-cutted.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4752/tbja.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/tbja.jpg/)

With out protection
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/5259/k9fm.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/k9fm.jpg/)

With protection
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5251/tfzg.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/tfzg.jpg/)

Some details
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3764/ppo0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/ppo0.jpg/)
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8259/cfe2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/cfe2.jpg/)

[OneKiwi]

Or you could get a few rolls of bike frame tape and do your own for that price

[lcpvcce]

Hi,

If somebody is interesting, "RustiDesign" ( Owner Antoine ROSSETTI ) made protections for the new Aluminium Bmax2MR chassis.

http://www.rustidesign.com/produits/produit.php?produit_code=RC-PROTEC#

The protection is delivered with a little tutorial ( ...How to clean your chassis...etc )
As shown below, the countersunk are pre-cutted.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4752/tbja.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/tbja.jpg/)

With out protection
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/5259/k9fm.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/k9fm.jpg/)

With protection
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5251/tfzg.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/tfzg.jpg/)

Some details
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3764/ppo0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/ppo0.jpg/)
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8259/cfe2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/cfe2.jpg/)

Good stuff !!!!..............:thumbsup:

[mes]

http://ameblo.jp/mishi0325/image-11611397140-12679969448.html

MR Version2 with aluminum chassis to be presented at the upcoming Tokyo Hobby Show.

[JustARcFan]

Same kit as the normal MR but with alu chassis or does it have more new stuff on it?

http://ameblo.jp/mishi0325/image-11611397140-12679969448.html

MR Version2 with aluminum chassis to be presented at the upcoming Tokyo Hobby Show.

[skyaflake]

Probably that's about it. Maybe the gear-diff included by default and ofcourse instead of the ball diff.

[mes]

Maybe 12 mm hexes in the rear, the new 4WD also has them.

[Matt Butcher]

another shot: http://ameblo.jp/mishi0325/image-11605283795-12670568065.html

[JustARcFan]

Looks like a full option MR to me?

[neallewis]

Looks like a full option MR to me?

click the image and scroll along through five images.

[JustARcFan]

My Iphone is not coopartive so I can't scroll .

What is the difference??

[discothesnake]

Cant really see anything different. The pictures further along look old. It's Naoto's original car with plastic chassis and AE big bores.

[neallewis]

Cant really see anything different. The pictures further along look old. It's Naoto's original car with plastic chassis and AE big bores.

Yup, but it does have hexes fitted. I think that was the point.

[mes]

Version 2 will include aluminum idlers and steel gears in the gear diff. :thumbsup:
Available late September with Team Yokomo Europe at €259.-

[skyaflake]

And the Alu chassis :thumbsup:

[smokes]

The Ball diff is awesome, is the gear diff any better?

[dpackster1980]

All as I need is the alloy chassis and steering arms that's it. It's just a fully optioned MR with the possibility of 12mm rear hexes to make the wheels compatible with the new B-Max.

[mes]

The Ball diff is awesome, is the gear diff any better?
Depends on your track and expectations. For me, a gear diff means consistency and less work, although a ball diff feels slightly better on dirt.

The Version 2 kit will be nice for my son, but upgrading my own car is still cheaper for me as none of its parts are really worn. Shock shaft coating is not as it used to be, but I can live with that! ;)

[smokes]

Why are yokomo changing with the hex wheel out drives?
I don't understand why the released the car with out them. We are going to end up with loads a wheels which need either the pin type or the hex type....

[mes]

Except Kyosho, every company made the switch to hex wheels at some point in time. Unfortunately there are various sizes, like the historical small AE 4WD/Losi fronts and the stupid 14 mm on the Durangos and Xrays...
When the original B-Max2 was developed, AE's standard was drive pins in the rear, which meant pin-style wheels were available everywhere. Meanwhile it has become harder to get pin wheels, and 12 mm (IMHO finally) are easy to get ALMOST EVERYWHERE. As I didn't like pins from the start, I converted my Yoke when I first built it one and a half years ago. I hope there'll be a Yokomo 12 mm front end set soon... Maybe there'll be a bright future some day with 12 mm handout wheels at bigger events! I really envy touring car and 1/8th scale buggy drivers of their industry standard wheels. ;)

[RogerM]

Except Kyosho, every company made the switch to hex wheels at some point in time.

Kyosho have been using 12mm hex drive wheels since at least the mid 1980s.

[mes]

Right, that's why they didn't have to switch! :D

[skyaflake]

I'm currently thinking about fabricating a carbon front shock tower for the B-Max2, would there be any interest from any people from here? Of course, quality will be top notch :thumbsup:

(Hello mes, we had some email contact before, Leonard told me your nickname ;-))

[mes]

Hi skyaflake, if they are similar to your XB4 shock towers, I might be interested in two of them. How about a mid-motor rear shock tower?

[OneKiwi]

I'm currently thinking about fabricating a carbon front shock tower for the B-Max2, would there be any interest from any people from here? Of course, quality will be top notch :thumbsup:

(Hello mes, we had some email contact before, Leonard told me your nickname ;-))


I could be interested in the front tower and the rear MM tower

[BentKa]

I'm currently thinking about fabricating a carbon front shock tower for the B-Max2, would there be any interest from any people from here? Of course, quality will be top notch :thumbsup:


Front tower and MM rear tower here as well :thumbsup:

Bent

[skyaflake]

Plans are in the making :thumbsup:

[PeterC]

What are everyone's experience when changing to 2 x 1.6mm pistons? How does this change the handling compared to kit pistons. Sorry for the beginner question, I'm still new to offroad.

[skyaflake]

Carbon chassis and towers are produced. I receive the first batch of them next week and will test them next weekend (so not this weekend).

Of course, when the quality is to my standards I'm open for pre-orders. I will also launch a press-message, so other sites can use the message as well. More news soon. :D

@PeterC, do you mean in the front or in the rear?