questions from a kyosho newb

[yellow1]

hello from the states!

thanks to the informative review on this site, i was influenced to purchase the ZX5. it's been a long time since i've run a purpose-built race vehicle, and i'm excited to have it added to my fleet.

i bought the RTR version, due to the overall cost, and the fact that my LHS was going to add a 3200 Team Orion LiPO to the package. all in all, it wasn't a bad deal...

my only problem... is i've got the desire to upgrade a few items on it.

first... i did tires. the RTR comes with pre glued pins sans foam, what a let down. i run mainly on cement and grass, but every so often i'll go to the local BMX track and kick up the dust and pebbles that litter the track. so i purchased some pro-line dirt-hawgs. hopefully they last awhile.

next... i did motor and ESC. i had a castle creations Sidewinder w/ 5600kV motor, which was pulled from a 2WD evader. i haven't seen much feedback from people running a brushless with this car, will the drive train hold up?

finally... i ordered in an Azarashi Lexan Underbody (thanks for the tip, oople!) and so far have saved the screwheads from a ton of scratches.

now for the list of upgrades and questions...


one way front axle... what do i really need to order? i'm trying to avoid taking the car apart to look, order the parts, then rebuilding it in time for the weekend... only to take it apart again when the parts come in. part2... does this come as a kit?
rear sway bar. is it really necessary?
the system that captures the rear hinge pins (part #34 in the manual) keep breaking on me. ok, i admit that the first time was my fault, but the 2nd time was a glancing blow from the side... and the plastic broke in the same place. how much stronger are the composite ones? does anyone make an aluminum version?
the RTR version comes with universal-type dog-bones, which is curiously different from the dog-bones identified in the review. as far as i can tell, they don't rattle around, and they seem pretty durable.
has anyone run with a hard-cased LiPO like the Team Orion one? how did you manage to get the battery post to fit under the upper shell... without cutting holes and leaving wires exposed?

aside from that, i'm very happy with my new car, and i'm trying my hardest not to bash it, and save it strictly for racing and practices... unlike the rest of my fleet...:thumbsup:

[yellow1]

What do you know. kyosho makes an aluminum front suspension holder (KYOLAW31) any ideas if it's the same as the one in the rear?

[RogerM]

The LAW31 only fits the front most point on the car.

I have the 3 Racing parts on all other locations and they seem fine.

[Scouser]

The aluminum arm braces are LAW36 and LAW37 I believe. You could also get the red aluminum ones from the TF5 touring car which are pretty much the same. I have the LAW36 rear bumper but the TF5 braces on the inner positions.
Other upgrades you might want to consider are
Ceramic diff and thrust race balls (from Atomic Carbon)
Delrin hinge pin sleeves
Hex head screw set
All these changes will make the car longer lasting, smoother running and easier to work on.
As for your Li-Po battery, I have a Core-RC battery which is quite bulky. I had to remove some of the chassis protrusions to get the Li=Po to fit snugly. I have not seen the Orion version so I cant say for sure but it sounds like the same will have to be done to yours to get it in there.
Hope this helps.

[Ted Maul]

I have the Orion 3200 Carbon and it fits the zx-5 without modification, just turn the battery strap upside down so the grooves in the strap are pointing upwards. I also put a bit of the sticky backed velcro (just the fluffy side) on the lower side of the battery strap to help make the fit a bit more snug and reduce the liklihood of any damage during big impacts (see my other thread!)

HTH

Mike

[yellow1]

thanks Ted.

i might need you to send a picture of the battery mounted in the car with the shell on.
because the problem with the orion battery is that the posts are oriented perpendicular to the battery... aka pointing straight up...

the only way i can think of getting the battery to fit under the shell is to cut holes in the darn thing... btw, it looks really ugly... and leave the wire exposed.

[Ted Maul]

I'm a bit confused - Do you have the 3200mah Orion Carbon (Black plastic carbon case with a blue label) or is it a silver metallic effect case? If its the black one, then the battery fits in as per the manual, page 25 instruction 37. Treat it as if it were a stick pack as per the first picture, not a side by side pack as in the latter two.

If you install the pack so the connector ports are at the front of the car, not the rear, you need no mods to the shell at all. Will try and get some pictures one I have rebuilt mine after my last incident...

[yellow1]

i have the same battery you do: http://tinyurl.com/5lczln
the battery fits under the strap just fine. and i oriented the connection posts towards the front as suggested. but the problem is that wiring the connection posts do not fit underneath the shell.

no matter, i got frustrated while shopping for a "L" shaped battery post last night, and just drilled holes in the body shell to accommodate the wiring. i'll post a picture later tonight when i get home, for clarity.

[RogerM]

I am guessing here that Ted has an SP shell and Yellow has an original ZX5 shell. There was chuff all room under the original shell but now there is loads under the latest shell.

[Ted Maul]

I am guessing here that Ted has an SP shell and Yellow has an original ZX5 shell. There was chuff all room under the original shell but now there is loads under the latest shell.

Possible, car was 2nd hand, bought Nov last year, is that too old to be an SP shell? Car looks identical to the review car on here, if Martin B is reading this, he can confirm as I bought it off him.

[RogerM]

That will be the original shell ..... not a lot of space under there.

The SP shell is part number LAB3