the oople race truck

[buggy#0]

I have recently been looking at the x factory x60, and I really do like it. I own a b4.1, which is 99% identical to a t4 - the donor car for the x60. I also own a hpi e firestorm, which been the subject of many threads, including 'could this work?'(about that... it was a bit ridiculous so I canned it). My plan is to merge the two to create a modern 2wd race truck, quite possibly mid motored. And the best part is, you all have a say in how it's built! The whole oople community can come together to create this, and i will have daily updates on the build.

P.S - tomorrow at 10am I will unveil something I think is quite revolutionary on this thread-stay tuned for the announcement!

[Hpi_guy]

The b4 and t4 are different as the arms, shocks, chassis and turnbuckles are longer and the firestorm isn't comparable with the b4 as the firestorm is all in metric and all the b4 is imperial, but I mid motored stadium truck would be good

[buggy#0]

Its not half hpi half ae, it is an e firestorm with some parts from the ae that will fit. I will also use things that people would like to see on it.

[Hpi_guy]

Oh I understand

[buggy#0]

Now for the promised announcement... the subject is rear toe. When you want to alter rear toe on a 2wd, you need to get some different blocks. I find this annoying. So my idea (its complicated so bear with me) is to have hinge pins that can pivot, maybe ball ends, and then the wishbone, then on the end half a block. On the chassis you have a kind of laydown shock tower with different mounting holes, with each one of the holes being a different amount of pre-set toe in. You then select your amount of toe, and screw the half block onto it. You then have a quick and simple way of adjusting toe... with no extra cost!

[Hpi_guy]

Now that is a good idea but inted of using ball ends I would go for captured ones like I'm a 1/8 rallycross

[buggy#0]

Yes, that would be better. I will develop the idea and who knows, it could end up on a certain truck... but back to the build. Right now I have everything on the table, and have got the final day of BTCC on tv. The only thing to ask now is what do you what do you want to see on this truck?

[Hpi_guy]

A cow shell :thumbsup: blitz ESE shocks, proline cab forward shell, mid motor

[Lowie]

good thinking about the toe-adjustment!

[buggy#0]

I'll take note of those, especially the cab forward shell. How about this?
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-2012-bulldog-clear-body-for-losi-tlr-22t/rc-car-products/370000
Also, lets have some others posting and sharing their ideas!

[buggy#0]

Diff mod - small shims removed along with spring.

[(off)roadrunner]

You could simplify the rear toe system by using the pivot ball system which you suggested. But rather than having the various link positions have the link fixed at both ends and use it like a turnbuckle too adjust how long the link is.

Basically same as you would on a pivot ball steering system but the inner part of the link attached to the chassis rather than a steering linkage.

Some cars do already run this sort of system for adjusting rear toe

[regstar123]

You could simplify the rear toe system by using the pivot ball system which you suggested. But rather than having the various link positions have the link fixed at both ends and use it like a turnbuckle too adjust how long the link is.

Basically same as you would on a pivot ball steering system but the inner part of the link attached to the chassis rather than a steering linkage.

Some cars do already run this sort of system for adjusting rear toe

A bit like the old Schumacher SST's?

[buggy#0]

To all e firestorm/blitz owners, I really recommend you make the diff mod I did. Before, it sounded like a small stone was stuck in the works. I did multiple rebuilds, but it still made a grinding noise, and was not working properly (it felt almost like a spool). So I took out the spring and the shims, filled it with shock oil NOT diff oil, and now have a beautifully smooth and noise free diff. This is a design fault, and is certainly not the usual hpi quality. I would like to know if any of you have had this fault.
Just thought i'd share it with you;)

[(off)roadrunner]

A bit like the old Schumacher SST's?

Yeah similar sort of thing although I believe the SST's used kingpins on the hub rather than pivot balls.

[mr. ed]

Have a look at the bay for pics of the robinson racing adjustable toe-in ; commercialised in the late eighties (I think) for the ultima and rc10

[Hpi_guy]

The noise from the diff was because the spring was pushing the smaller sun gears away from the bigger planetary gears, making a bad mesh

[buggy#0]

The noise from the diff was because the spring was pushing the smaller sun gears away from the bigger planetary gears, making a bad mesh

Do you think it's a design fault?

[Hpi_guy]

No, the idea is that you shim it correctly so that with the spring it gives a tight diff mesh

[buggy#0]

Today, I am going to do some gearbox mods (hopefully). I have decided weight will be a factor, so anything that is not vital to its structure can go. Also, the mid motor idea will have to go on hold for this week, as it's half term and I rely on my schools D/T equipment to design and machine parts. Quick question(s), what do you want the chassis made from(nothing expensive its a school:D), and what else do you want to see on the truck - remember, its up to you!

[buggy#0]

Just went out in the damp weather with my donor firestorm, with the new diff and with a horrible setup. The front wheels have 2° positive camber, the left rear has about 4° neg and the right about 6°... oh, and the front wheels have about 4° toe in. And amazingly, it handles fine. I will put 3° on the rear, as the mid corner grip was astounding. I did the test to see what could be improved, and I have to say not much. When exiting corners on power, the rear comes around and it feels unstable, so the truck will have a longer chassis. For battery placement, how about across/mid?

[Hpi_guy]

Personally the best battery / motor lay out would be either similar to the desc210 or x2c with saddle setup

[buggy#0]

I want a design that is quite different to others, so I thought I could use this layout:
Servo, stick or saddle (both can be used), esc+receiver side by side, then motor. I want quite a thin chassis, made of plastic, so it will have a top deck.

[Hpi_guy]

Only problem with stacking is that it raises your centre of gravity

[buggy#0]

I would only have the top deck at the front covering the servo, so CG wouldn't be that big an issue. Also, to adjust chassis stiffness, turnbuckles attatched to chassis and that top deck - what do you think?

[buggy#0]

Today I will be taking a break from the project, as I am going to view my new car. I have however sketched some designs, but they are secret!

[buggy#0]

Sorry for no post yesterday, I was out again. I will probably not be able to get back to it until Saturday, so in the meantime, why not send me some more ideas?

[buggy#0]

Back to work today. I'm using 3mm acrylic, and is quite stiff, but it'll have a top deck too. Oh, and out with a boring black tub, this truck has a blitz ese style white chassis :drool:

[df-03]

abot toe in toe out, you could make an arms tamiya avante look like, and about your "would this work" thread, you should search for awsomematix dumping solution. Maybe would some good idea came out this.
Cheers

[metalmickey0]

Back to work today. I'm using 3mm acrylic, and is quite stiff, but it'll have a top deck too. Oh, and out with a boring black tub, this truck has a blitz ese style white chassis :drool:

I wouldn't use acrylic as its brittle. I tried once and it fractured from a bump.
Carbon fibre would be better and look better too.

[buggy#0]

I am at last back to work, albeit with a very different outset. My original plan was for the ultimate racing truck, but my budget wasn't allowing it. My new idea is for an E Firestorm with cheap yet functional mods with a handful of b4 bits and a dremel, which is what my first attempt was lacking. It will have to stay rear motor, but no biggie. One thing I hate about the truck is the cg, the shock towers are stupidly tall as these pics show against a dest210:
50070

50071
But nothing a bit of dremeling can't fix:thumbsup:
I have already made some mods that I will post tomorrow. Feel free to post your opinions and suggestions.

[buggy#0]

50097
I was not a fan of the 'clip in' style servo mounts used on the car, as it required the top brace which was held in with six screws (a nightmare when it comes to maintenance) so I decided to put in some AE servo mounts. These however move the servo forwards by about 1cm, so the upper servo saver was fouling the servo case. I dremeled the end of the saver off and had to chop some of the ballstud off.
50098
It just makes it now, not much room at all!
50099
The lack of that top brace will also free it up a bit and give some flex.

[Fiddybux]

That's pretty sweet servo arm clearance you have there now...I bet the action is pretty smooth.

[Scouser]

Can't wait to see this on the track this summer when we get a truck class going again. :thumbsup:

[danDanEFC]

We will be running a 'anything as long as its 1/10 and electric' Truck class at Southport this year.

A few have 4wd Short course trucks and a few have 2wd stadium types should be fun.