PDA

View Full Version : Hobao h2 pro


adey
21-12-2012, 05:51 PM
Hi all, I have just bought a hobao h2 pro for £135 from a local model shop and wanted to say that I am staggered with the quality of the parts of this car for the money. What a bargain. Anybody else bought one ?

adon30
21-12-2012, 08:59 PM
I don't think you will be the only one in the west mids. I've seen some pics of it and it does look good value for money.
Look forward to seeing them in action in the coming weeks.

lardy37
22-12-2012, 12:49 AM
i have not bought one yet but am seriously tempted as pics i have seen look good and most hobao stuff seems to be good quality, would be nice to see some pics on here other than pre production ones on other sites

jasonrcb
22-12-2012, 06:24 AM
I have bought 1 and like you im well impressed with the quality and the value for money,i have put pics of mine in the thread in general chat,im looking forward to giving it a run out at telford on the 30th.

I know of at least 2 others that will be raced in the midwest region:thumbsup:

adey
22-12-2012, 02:50 PM
I noticed that in some pictures the rear shocks are mounted on the rear of the shock tower and in others they are mounted on the front of rear tower. It looks like they can be mounted either way. Just wondering which way people are going with this ?.

jasonrcb
22-12-2012, 03:07 PM
Yes they can be mounted either way round,i have gone with mine at the rear of the tower plainly because that's what im used to with my 2wds,i have also reversed the shock tower as that makes the shocks straighter

adey
22-12-2012, 05:19 PM
Good tip there mate. When I build mine ill try reversing the tower. Don't like the colour of the anodising on the shocks tbh but what a car for the money.

arransmith27
22-12-2012, 06:20 PM
Really liking the look of this car.

Seriously tempted at the price

arransmith27
22-12-2012, 06:23 PM
Out of interest - what's the wheel fitment ?

budgio
22-12-2012, 06:25 PM
I was going to go for the new Yokomo b-max 2mr but this hobao also has me tempted.
I'm going to have to decide soon... :)

jasonrcb
22-12-2012, 06:29 PM
There 12mm hex fitting front and rear,im guessing losi 22 wheels will be a perfect fit

Nick this car is seriously worth every penny,it has everything in the box i really dont think you could go wrong with it:thumbsup:

budgio
22-12-2012, 06:33 PM
They must be good because they seem to be sold out everywhere ive looked :)

arransmith27
22-12-2012, 07:02 PM
Does anyone have any built pics with electrics installed that they can upload ? :thumbsup:

Darren Boyle
22-12-2012, 07:36 PM
They must be good because they seem to be sold out everywhere ive looked :) We have just recieved our second batch and still have several avialable if you need one ;)

jasonrcb
22-12-2012, 07:46 PM
Here is mine guys,not the std electrics layout as i have cut the side pods to allow me to use saddle,stick and shorty lipo configuration,

I have also reshaped the battery strap to make getting the cells out easier with this configuration.

The shell is a penguin custom shell,cheers steve really appreciate how quick you turned this around for me,keep a watch for other variations of shells in the coming weeks:thumbsup:

I must also add thanks to dms who got the car to me so quick,much appreciated

jasonrcb
23-12-2012, 10:41 AM
Just a thought here,is it just me or does the wing seem very low compared to other wing heights on other cars,i have just put some other wing mounts on which has raised the wing a few mm and it now looks closer to the majority of other 2wds.

KRob
23-12-2012, 10:57 AM
As mentioned, the rear shock tower can go on either way.
Because it is swept back it gives the correct off-set for mounting the shocks on the front of the w/bones or the rear.
The only thing if they are mounted on the front is that you won't be able to use the inner hole on the shock tower as the left shock will hit the gear cover.

Not tried other manufacturer's wheel on it. Part of the axle is not threaded so just need to make sure any wheel chosen will fit over that.
The Ho Bao wheels (and other spares) are in at CML so if needed they will be available. Certainly have white wheels and ordered yellow too so they should also been in. (sorry, the shops probably haven't got them yet as they only arrived last week and it was rather busy!). Will make sure they are available if anyone needs them.

The wing does sit a little lower then other cars. Personally I like but obviously it's down to personal taste and if you've managed to adjust it to suit you that's good :)

budgio
23-12-2012, 02:38 PM
We have just recieved our second batch and still have several avialable if you need one ;)

Thanks for that Darren, just ordered ;)

jasonrcb
23-12-2012, 07:00 PM
Good choice Nick:thumbsup:you wont be disappointed

jasonrcb
23-12-2012, 07:03 PM
Cheers Keith for the head's up on the wheels and spares,saves me a job looking for wheels to fit.

I agree i like the look of the wing low down,it just looked really low but keeping with the kit wing mounts and having a new designed wing to balance it out:thumbsup:

X - Racer
23-12-2012, 08:26 PM
[QUOTE=jasonrcb;724732]Here is mine guys,not the std electrics layout as i have cut the side pods to allow me to use saddle,stick and shorty lipo configuration,

Is the std electrics layout mean't to have the speedo and receiver installed on top of battery? I take it a normal size 7.4v stick lipo would fit in, but the end of the lipo would be nearly touching the servo?

jasonrcb
23-12-2012, 08:48 PM
The std layout is for the speedo and reciever to be on top of the battery plate,a normal stick lipo sits in and sits up against the cradle that fixes the servo into the chassis.

Std electrics layout is very easy to fit and can be made to look very neat,i just wanted to try a different layout,if it doesn't work then 5 minutes and i can put it back to std.

X - Racer
23-12-2012, 08:56 PM
Thats good news because I don't want to have to buy more lipos!

Thank you for the quick reply

danny the elfman
24-12-2012, 12:18 PM
Never had experience with shorty lipos but could you get the speedo and reciever in front of a shory lipo in these cars?

jasonrcb
24-12-2012, 01:24 PM
Yes Danny you can,with the electrics layout im using a shorty lipo drops straight in:thumbsup:

adey
24-12-2012, 02:05 PM
Does anybody know if hobao has a team to run and develop this car. ?

vrooom
24-12-2012, 02:59 PM
Where can you get spares from? and can TLR 22 body fit on it?

s22jgs
24-12-2012, 03:06 PM
can the rear wheel hex be replaced with 14mm hex from Durango? I got 10 sets of rear wheels id rather not have to try and sell if i can use them on this

cigbunt
24-12-2012, 03:12 PM
Where can you get spares from? and can TLR 22 body fit on it?

not sure if it does nr not but the stock 22 shell doesn't have much head room so its prob not the best choice

jasonrcb
24-12-2012, 03:22 PM
Spares are at cml now so i would assume that once the couriers are back working then they wont be long till the shops have stock.

The durango 14mm hexes will fit the rear with no problems,but not the front.

As said the kit 22 shell is a bit low so you wouldn't have much room,the kit shell is fine for now,penguin custom bodyshells will have a couple of versions ready after xmas and a new version of the kit shell should be ready in the new year

s22jgs
24-12-2012, 03:52 PM
the hexes look to be a different type. They looms like the push over pin ones. The Durango ones sit behind the pin with a slot along the hex.

are they push overs or just reversed slot types, so just run the Durango ones the other way round?

jasonrcb
24-12-2012, 03:58 PM
The kit hexes just push on and go over the pin,so as you say reverse the durango hex and fit it just the same.

Dandare
24-12-2012, 04:19 PM
Sounds like Ansmann/Team C wheels should fit then... (maybe subject to drilling the wheel hole slightly ?)

BTW, I could be mistaken but it looks like there is no extra holes on the front hubs/carriers to alter the roll centre, only on the chassis end ?

jasonrcb
24-12-2012, 04:54 PM
You can use any of the 12mm hex type wheels,you will on most have to open the centre hole up a little,the hobao wheels have a slightly different offset so you would need a small spacer or the option of using thicker hexes.

There is only 1 adjustment hole on the hub end,you do have the option of being able to raise the ballstud or you could lower it by shaving some of the plastic off,then if you wanted you could use spacers to raise the heights again.

s22jgs
24-12-2012, 05:29 PM
cant find any spares on cml site?

jasonrcb
24-12-2012, 05:34 PM
If you look at the KROB post in this thread he says they had arrived but not out to the shops as they were rather busy so im guessing they will be out to shops and listed once people are back at work

The Ho Bao wheels (and other spares) are in at CML so if needed they will be available. Certainly have white wheels and ordered yellow too so they should also been in. (sorry, the shops probably haven't got them yet as they only arrived last week and it was rather busy!). Will make sure they are available if anyone needs them

adey
25-12-2012, 08:01 PM
Anybody know the gearing for a 6.5 and a 10.5 in for the h2 pro ?

jasonrcb
25-12-2012, 08:25 PM
Im starting on 24/76 on a 6.5

lsdevey
25-12-2012, 08:25 PM
looks ace:thumbsup: intresting to see how it goes on the track

KRob
25-12-2012, 09:36 PM
I'll try and remember how I had it set for the Silverstone meeting :blush:.
It was indoors on their very grippy astro.
I didn't actually build the car so I think it was done as per the instructions.
It was 4-gear mid motor. Having never run a geared diff before I just packed it with AE black grease.
All four shocks had the 4 hole pistons. IIRC front oil was 30wt and rear 25wt.
Didn't have the kit springs to hand so ran Yokomo green on the front and pink on the rear. I think the kit orange front springs will be good but the rear might be a little hard. For any future runs I might do with it I will use the AE big bore springs as I at least have a rating for them.
Middle hole in the tower front & rear. Putting the shocks on the outer hole in the wishbone was much better for that track. I think for outdoors I would probably move them back to the inside.
The camber link started on the inside hole front and rear but I moved it to the outer hole to give a bit more roll (I think...)
No idea what size the spur was - sorry - but I had a Novak 7.5 with a 23t.
pinion.
Ride height was driveshafts level and front wishbones a bit below level.
Hope that helps a bit - hope I haven't missed anything.

spud31
25-12-2012, 10:03 PM
Thanks Keith :-)

arransmith27
26-12-2012, 07:04 AM
Adey sent me pics of his newly built H2 yesterday. Must say that I am massively impressed with the quality.

So tempted to try one of these:)

arransmith27
26-12-2012, 07:11 AM
Judging by the reaction to this car, and the following it has already gained in such a short time, how can a 'Hobao' thread be added to the 'Car Talk' section of Oople?

jasonrcb
26-12-2012, 07:45 AM
Judging by the reaction to this car, and the following it has already gained in such a short time, how can a 'Hobao' thread be added to the 'Car Talk' section of Oople

Totally agree Arran,lets hope Jimmy is taking note

My H2 will get its first run out at Telford on the 30th,i think there are another 2 or 3 in the midwest already so there will be no shortage of help and idea's around for the car:thumbsup:

arransmith27
26-12-2012, 08:28 AM
A very exciting car indeed. Certainly deserving of its own section :thumbsup:

s22jgs
26-12-2012, 10:22 AM
Very excited about this car now.
Have 2 on their way.

Would be good to have a Hobao section so we can share setups etc

adey
26-12-2012, 12:14 PM
I am sure jimmy is reading this. Mine went together very well and still can't believe the level of quality of the car for the money.

Steven Forster
26-12-2012, 01:27 PM
Im also thinking about getting 1 of the H2 Pro's.........need more close up pics with electrics fitted and in different battery positions ;)

cheers

s22jgs
27-12-2012, 08:18 AM
although i get mine tomorrow, i would like to ask anyone who has one already, whether the spacers provided with the kit, it for spacing the hubs etc are plastic or ali?

I cant stand plastic ones.

Do i need to order up a batch of 3x7 schumacher shims?

jasonrcb
27-12-2012, 08:44 AM
Yes Steve,the kit spacers are plastic.

Enjoy your building tomorrow,it goes together a treat.

s22jgs
27-12-2012, 08:51 AM
thanks mate, ill get some ordered today then.

Annoyingly the front end seems to use odd sizes.2.5x7 and 3.1x7

cigbunt
28-12-2012, 11:32 AM
What did you put in the diff?

budgio
28-12-2012, 07:12 PM
Got my pro kit today and very impressed with what you get in the box.It even comes with a set of tyres and inserts.
Unfortunately not enough time to build and run at Area51 tomorrow.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/AB7C1A90-4868-483B-B301-BD71A89ABA0E-1351-0000018987BBBB51.jpg

budgio
28-12-2012, 07:32 PM
A quick question
are the pinions/spur .48 dp?

s22jgs
28-12-2012, 07:33 PM
has anyone with one found that on page 15 where it says to put a washer on the hinge pin befor the ball end that none of the shims actually fit the hinge pin?

also any ideas how the spacers are supposed to work for anti squat. Also on page 15

s22jgs
28-12-2012, 07:35 PM
A quick question
are the pinions/spur .48 dp?

yeh they are

budgio
28-12-2012, 07:44 PM
yeh they are
thankys ;)

vrooom
28-12-2012, 09:44 PM
Can anyone measure the height/length of steering arm thingy where bearing sit in (part no 40017) and the width of steering rank (part no 40017)?

jasonrcb
29-12-2012, 12:20 PM
Yes Steve,i found the hinge pin spacers were a tight fit,but im happy with that as taking the wishbones off everything stays in place.

The anti squat spacers took a bit of working out,i am going to start with the middle thickness,that way it gives the option to go either way but i found with the quick run i gave it that it felt nice like that

gps3300
29-12-2012, 02:22 PM
has anyone with one found that on page 15 where it says to put a washer on the hinge pin befor the ball end that none of the shims actually fit the hinge pin?

Yeah, I found the same so I used a reamer to make the holes bigger...only to find that I didn't need to do that as both wishbones were slop free without any spacers - bonus.

Loving my H2 kit, the moulding quality is right up there with the big Japanese firms and the chassis looks amazing. Unfortunately my kit came without any manual, decals or window masks but MB Models / CML sorted me out with a manual immediately. Just waiting on decals now.

RDG 40
29-12-2012, 03:18 PM
anyone ran the car yet im intruiged as its such a losi 22 copy as to how it performs??

Gearbox looks further back

s22jgs
29-12-2012, 04:44 PM
the promotional photos don't do the car justice. Parts of the front end are 22 like and the chassis shape, but very little else is a copy of the 22.

the only way i can describe it is a 22, 210, rb6, b4 hybrid.

Supercoolnothing
29-12-2012, 05:08 PM
I think my mind's made up, next payday I'm treating myself to one it seems like a lot of car for the money

jasonrcb
29-12-2012, 05:17 PM
For the money the H2 has to be the best quality and value for money on the market at the minute.

Mine will have its first real runout tomorrow so i will report back whether its good bad or otherwise,im actually quite looking forward to it.

s22jgs
29-12-2012, 05:39 PM
There are only 2 issues i have found with the car.

1 - the shocks shafts are too short, and do not allow for much, if any droop when using the outer holes on the arms. Unfortunately the shafts are 3.5mm thick, so shumacher ones wont work in place. I will be trying to source longer 3.5mm shocks. In the meantime just unwind the shock end a few turns to gain a couple of mm.

2 - The rear suspension blocks and not screwed onto the chassis. When you remove the gearbox to do diff etc, the blocks are loose, so you end up with the arms, hinge pins and balls falling off. Will be looking at a way to fix these to chassis.

On the plus side, i got mine sorted today

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DV1MiOTpl7c/UN8lpa54SWI/AAAAAAAABAY/pLDIq4j6J2Q/s512/WP_20121229_001.jpg

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LgN4sDXWr_g/UN8qjdYwvHI/AAAAAAAABBA/cVyKr_TWxa0/s512/WP_20121229_001.jpg

jasonrcb
30-12-2012, 04:43 PM
Well today was the first time out with my H2 and i have to say im impressed to say the least,the car is so easy easy to drive,it feels very smooth and consistent,when the track was wet the car had grip but looking further forward i would like to try the diff with a thicker oil/grease as it felt it was diffing out a couple of times,but when the track had dried out some the car had some really good pace and felt it had come to life.

I had a feeling the car would be good but after today i know i made the right choice going for this car,value and performance what more could you want,

Finally yes i did try to break it,this is 1 strong car also.

s22jgs
30-12-2012, 07:50 PM
Faster or slower than your previous car?

bert digler
30-12-2012, 08:42 PM
Well today was the first time out with my H2 and i have to say im impressed to say the least,the car is so easy easy to drive,it feels very smooth and consistent,when the track was wet the car had grip but looking further forward i would like to try the diff with a thicker oil/grease as it felt it was diffing out a couple of times,but when the track had dried out some the car had some really good pace and felt it had come to life.

I had a feeling the car would be good but after today i know i made the right choice going for this car,value and performance what more could you want,

Finally yes i did try to break it,this is 1 strong car also.

Had a go with very rusty thumbs and I must say very slight understeer not a bad thing at all easily the best out the box 2wd I have driven cheers jase for test

s22jgs
30-12-2012, 09:41 PM
Well today was the first time out with my H2 and i have to say im impressed to say the least,the car is so easy easy to drive,it feels very smooth and consistent,when the track was wet the car had grip but looking further forward i would like to try the diff with a thicker oil/grease as it felt it was diffing out a couple of times,but when the track had dried out some the car had some really good pace and felt it had come to life.

I had a feeling the car would be good but after today i know i made the right choice going for this car,value and performance what more could you want,

Finally yes i did try to break it,this is 1 strong car also.

Did you make any changes to kit setup.

jasonrcb
30-12-2012, 10:16 PM
Its not quite as quick as my old car in the wet,but that i think is due to the setup but in the dry it was easily as quick,pleased with that as i had no real setup to work from,just guess work.

Main setup changes on mine from kit was,running the car in saddle pack,shocks out the back of the car and rear tower flipped,2mm spacers raising the front ball studs,80g weight under the lipo's,1 change i will look at for the next time out is,KROB mentioned he thought the front end was a little light which i would agree with,so i may look at adding 20g around the servo

s22jgs
30-12-2012, 11:10 PM
to be honest if ure running near enough kit setup then i think its gonna be too stiff for the wet.

sounds encouraging. Gotta wait till the 8th to give mine a run

jasonrcb
31-12-2012, 07:45 AM
Sorry Steve i was half asleep last night and missed some bits out.

Oil wise,32.5 in the front,27.5 in the rear,i had losi pink rear springs and losi black fronts,if i had my other springs with me i may of gone yellow rear and blue front just to soften the car a little more.

Looking back at yesterday the signs are encouraging and there is plenty more to come from the car

s22jgs
31-12-2012, 09:22 AM
Black front is pretty stiff isn't it?

I've loaded mine up with 3.5 front and 2.0 rear

s22jgs
31-12-2012, 09:26 AM
I'm using Durango spring btw

jasonrcb
31-12-2012, 10:12 AM
Yeah black is the stiffest of the springs im pretty sure.

Seeing the combo you have gone for then my idea of blue and yellow would be much closer to yours.

s22jgs
31-12-2012, 06:49 PM
yeh. IM gonna stick with Durango springs for mine. They are a more snug fit, but seem to be a better quality spring.

plus i already have l 3 spring sets so cheaper nlt to change to something else lol

budgio
03-01-2013, 12:22 AM
Finished mine off today.I went by the manual and my mid motor layout looks different to others in this thread as the motor fits in from the opposite side.it all looks good though.
I'm going to mount my shox at the rear and may try TeamC/Ansmann driveshafts as they look a little beefier than the kit ones which seem a little thin to me.
Just need some proper rear springs as the kit ones seem too hard/long.
Also will try to convert to 12mm hexes on the front....somehow :)

jasonrcb
03-01-2013, 07:54 AM
Nick,check which gearbox casings you used as sounds like you may of used the rr casings and that's why your motor is the other way round.

Driveshafts are plenty strong enough,you wont have any issues with them.

Agree about the springs,im using losi 22 springs on mine,also steve on here is using durango springs so you have plenty of options.

Dont change the front end mate,i was going to do the same and fit ae wheels but after sunday the front end is dialled so im not going to touch that now

Supercoolnothing
03-01-2013, 08:57 AM
My kit's due to arrive today, I'm really looking forward to getting stuck into building it.

JonyNitro
03-01-2013, 10:47 AM
Any one using 2mm washers anywhere? thanks and what rate Losi 22 springs please

jasonrcb
03-01-2013, 11:01 AM
Im using 2mm spacers under the ballstuds on the front bulkhead.

I used losi black front and pink rears last sunday,car felt good but maybe a little stiff,next time out i will be starting with blue front/yellow rears

JonyNitro
03-01-2013, 11:10 AM
Im using 2mm spacers under the ballstuds on the front bulkhead.

I used losi black front and pink rears last sunday,car felt good but maybe a little stiff,next time out i will be starting with blue front/yellow rears

Ta very mucha's so shall I order them then Blue f/yellow r then

budgio
03-01-2013, 12:57 PM
Jason
Thanks for the update on the shells, just ordered ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobao-H2-Pro-Cab-Forward-Bodyshell-New-Design-Lexan-Will-Fit-Vega-Losi-22-/271131296323?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f20af4243

s22jgs
03-01-2013, 04:28 PM
i think ull find you can put the motor plate on whichever side you like. you just need to run the layshaft the other way.

Seeing as it is a durango box, i set mine to be the same side as the rango when using 4 gear gearbox

jenky
03-01-2013, 11:26 PM
sorry to butt in, just joined the site. im looking at purchasing one of these this week.
its been hard to decide which car to choose as there are so many but after reading this thread and the car being in my price range its the one im going to go for.
only reason for me not getting one will be if my offer on a schumacher sx3 is accepted on ebay or not. i expect it not to be as it was quite low.

the reason i butted in was to ask you guys a favor, with this being my first car and first build! since being around 14 years old and building a tamiya monster beetle and mardave meteor lol.

could one of you great ppl put up a list for me of everything i will need to purchase along side the kit to have it fully complete and able to pop along to a meeting to join in.

as in, what size brushless motor, esc, lipos, shock oil a complete list so i can purchase these and build the car on my return home from this trip at work. it will all be home waiting for me :)

i have a dx6i transmitter which i plan to use to start off with until i decide if i want to get something else. so just need the receiver for the radio side of things.

thank you.

s22jgs
03-01-2013, 11:42 PM
it really depends on how much you want to spend and what ure local club runs. Off road is generally open class with regards to motors etc

the most commonly run motor for 2wd would be a 7.5t, and i would personally recommend the hpi flux pro. They are around £55 and are superb.

esc wise you have many options and budgets. 2wd is my main class and as such i run the hobbywing v3, but this is around £140.
in my 4wd which is less serious for me i run the hobbywing 60A v2.1. You can get these for about £55 new and are more than adequate. I used to run an 8.5 on mine in 2wd and it was fine.

lipos again, what's ure budget. I run the ace gens 65c stick packs which u can get from giantshark for about £32 each. They are roar approved and seem pretty good. You can spend more on bigger name brands if u like, but i tend to think they are all made in one of 3 factories anyway so isn't much difference.

shock oil, core rc is available from most online shops. Id say you will want a range between 300cst and 700cst

jump onto ralls racing website and give Nathan a call his mobile number is listed on there, and tell him i sent you his way. He will be happy to discuss anything further with you and may do you a good deal on a job lot to get you going. He is a top racer and very helpful


sorry to butt in, just joined the site. im looking at purchasing one of these this week.
its been hard to decide which car to choose as there are so many but after reading this thread and the car being in my price range its the one im going to go for.
only reason for me not getting one will be if my offer on a schumacher sx3 is accepted on ebay or not. i expect it not to be as it was quite low.

the reason i butted in was to ask you guys a favor, with this being my first car and first build! since being around 14 years old and building a tamiya monster beetle and mardave meteor lol.

could one of you great ppl put up a list for me of everything i will need to purchase along side the kit to have it fully complete and able to pop along to a meeting to join in.

as in, what size brushless motor, esc, lipos, shock oil a complete list so i can purchase these and build the car on my return home from this trip at work. it will all be home waiting for me :)

i have a dx6i transmitter which i plan to use to start off with until i decide if i want to get something else. so just need the receiver for the radio side of things.

thank you.

s22jgs
04-01-2013, 06:50 AM
oh, depending on what motor u get u will need a pinion too. One comes in the kit and is a 24 tooth, but if ure running 7.5t then u may want a 21 or 22 as a starter. Ive put 22 on mine but not run it yet so cant say if it needs dropping or raising.

also, not essential but a good idea is spring. The kit ones are far too hard on the rear. I am changing to the losi springs as that's what most people i race with use. Makes things easier. Means i have 2 full Durango spring sets for sale if you wanted to save some money on a full selection. They are a tight fit on the collars on the h2 shocks but fit the rest of it perfectly.

other things to be aware of when building....

- the manual tells you to put a .5 shim on each of the rear inner hinge pins. I found that you don't need them as there is no play without. If you do have play on the arm then with the kit spacers you may need to use a reamer very lightly to open the whole a bit. They are slightly too small to go over the hing pins. Alternatively buy a pack or two of the Schumacher 3x7 spacers. You get 18 per pack in .5, 1 and 2mm sizes. Ive ordered two just because i hate using plastic spacers.

- page 15 of the manual has the anti squat section. It doesn't explain anything and might leave you scratching your head. Basically you get 3 longer inserts and 3 shorter ones.

the longer ones are to go under the rear-front block and this is what sets your anti squat. The thinnest one gives you 1 degree, next is 2 and the thickest gives you 3 degrees.

the shorter inserts are for the rear-rear block. These go on top of the block though, and are used to keep the gearbox level. So basically whatever you used under the front block, you need to put the same height spacer on top of the rear block.

- the only other thing i have found in the length of the rear shocks could be a little longer as there isn't much droop. Not that you need alot. All i have done is unwind the shock end so that the shaft from body bottom to end top is 30mm i think. Ill double check this over the weekend and let u know if any different.

just take your time with the build. In true Taiwanese style the manual is a bit lacking in detail but i managed it all first time after i got my head round the anti squat settings.

jenky
04-01-2013, 09:17 AM
Thank you a lot mate, they are a lot more technical now then just bolt together and go like when I was younger.

As I said I have an offer pending on an sx3 at the moment, as soon as I know either way ill be making my purchase of one of these. I saw them last week and never really knew much about them, or if spares were avaliable so put it to one side.

I was toying with the idea of a losi 22 but these h2 are a nicer price as a starter car.

budgio
04-01-2013, 09:43 AM
Ok ..... Who grabbed all the shock towers from MB models?

They went quick :)

jasonrcb
04-01-2013, 10:00 AM
Not guilty Nick,HONEST:woot:

sly
04-01-2013, 12:47 PM
Guilty
and white wheels

s22jgs
04-01-2013, 01:12 PM
why bother lol... they are beefy as feck and aint gonna break.

i just got a second car for spares. much more cost efficient at the kit price

bally
04-01-2013, 01:22 PM
Ok ..... Who grabbed all the shock towers from MB models?

They went quick :)

Loads more spares and kits on there way to us!

andy-aj
04-01-2013, 01:55 PM
Thank you a lot mate, they are a lot more technical now then just bolt together and go like when I was younger.

As I said I have an offer pending on an sx3 at the moment, as soon as I know either way ill be making my purchase of one of these. I saw them last week and never really knew much about them, or if spares were avaliable so put it to one side.

I was toying with the idea of a losi 22 but these h2 are a nicer price as a starter car.

jenky, check your pm's.

jenky
04-01-2013, 06:16 PM
Pm's checked, yes it is your sx3 andy that I was waiting to hear about.

jenky
04-01-2013, 11:41 PM
i have purchased my H2 tonight!

please have a look at the electrics ive chosen and see if they will fit/work ok in the car and tell me what else i should purchase ready.

motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31196__Turnigy_TrackStar_7_5T_Sensored_Brushless _Motor_5135KV_UK_Warehouse_.html
ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29351__Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_60A_w_Reverse_prog_ v2_2_UK_Warehouse_.html
2X LIPOS
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29002__Turnigy_4500mAh_4S_30C_hardcase_pack_ROAR _APPROVED_UK_Warehouse_.html
i have no idea what servo so i put this in the basket?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28730__Turnigy_Digital_metal_gear_servo_60g_15_8 kg_17sec_UK_Warehouse_.html

ive also bought a couple of different sized pinions, losi 22 springs and the schumacher spacers.

im going turnigy, simply because my dad uses it in his all his rc stuff and loves the gear.

bert digler
04-01-2013, 11:48 PM
Im using 2mm spacers under the ballstuds on the front bulkhead.

I used losi black front and pink rears last sunday,car felt good but maybe a little stiff,next time out i will be starting with blue front/yellow rears

Jase whack a thin roll bar on the back and some really thick diff grease in the ride was fine mate:lol:

bert digler
04-01-2013, 11:50 PM
Sorry thinking back in the day thick oil :lol: not grease

s22jgs
04-01-2013, 11:57 PM
That battery won't work with that esc

Ull want a 7.4v 2S

i have purchased my H2 tonight!

please have a look at the electrics ive chosen and see if they will fit/work ok in the car and tell me what else i should purchase ready.

motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31196__Turnigy_TrackStar_7_5T_Sensored_Brushless _Motor_5135KV_UK_Warehouse_.html
ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29351__Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_60A_w_Reverse_prog_ v2_2_UK_Warehouse_.html
2X LIPOS
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29002__Turnigy_4500mAh_4S_30C_hardcase_pack_ROAR _APPROVED_UK_Warehouse_.html
i have no idea what servo so i put this in the basket?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28730__Turnigy_Digital_metal_gear_servo_60g_15_8 kg_17sec_UK_Warehouse_.html

ive also bought a couple of different sized pinions, losi 22 springs and the schumacher spacers.

im going turnigy, simply because my dad uses it in his all his rc stuff and loves the gear.

Supercoolnothing
04-01-2013, 11:58 PM
Those lipo's ain't gonna fit bud, you need 2s ones (2 cell 7.4v) not the 4s (4 cell 14.8v) ones you've got there plus if you try hooking them up to that ESC you'll blow it apart instantly.

With regards to the ESC personally I'd be looking for a higher rated one maybe 120a instead of 60a your looking at.

The motor looks fine to me but make sure you get a sensored ESC to go with it.

The servo isn't what I'd choose either it's too slow for use in steering a 1/10th scale buggy you're ideally looking for something thats got a speed of about 0.09-0.07 with a max torque of about 10kg's I'd recommend having a look at the Savox 1257 that's what I use and I love it.

s22jgs
05-01-2013, 12:16 AM
The motor should be ok. I'd be looking at this lot though rather than turnigy

Esc http://www.giantshark.co.uk/xerun60asd-brushless-competitive-p-405855.html

Programming card http://www.giantshark.co.uk/hobbywing-professional-program-p-403901.html

Batteries http://www.giantshark.co.uk/gens-5300mah-2s1p-hardcase-pack-p-407507.html

Servo http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/radios/savox-sc-1252mg-low-profile-super-speed-metal-gear-digital-servo.html

tdi250
05-01-2013, 09:05 AM
A few pics of my mate Adey's brand new built H2.

It was very quick last night at Dudley for its first run!

Will be even better once it's been tuned.

s22jgs
05-01-2013, 09:22 AM
Looking good

adon30
05-01-2013, 09:22 AM
With regards to the electrics. If you want to run any brca events you will need a motor and lipo that is on the brca list.
I think (some of the) gens ace, intellect and voltz are on the list but don't think turnigy are.
Same with the motors.

I've heard good things about dualsky Escs but not used them myself. HW is also a good option.


Check here for brca lists. Don't think 2013 updates are out yet.
http://www.brca.org/index.php?q=content/homologation-lists-2012-updates/14218

s22jgs
05-01-2013, 09:37 AM
This is true. Although just to be clear, while all clubs must be brca registered, you do not need Brca or roar approved kit for club racing.

It is only required for nationals or an event that specifically states it is required.

The gens ace stick packs are approved I believe. Certainly are roar approved.

With regards to the electrics. If you want to run any brca events you will need a motor and lipo that is on the brca list.
I think (some of the) gens ace, intellect and voltz are on the list but don't think turnigy are.
Same with the motors.

I've heard good things about dualsky Escs but not used them myself. HW is also a good option.


Check here for brca lists. Don't think 2013 updates are out yet.
http://www.brca.org/index.php?q=content/homologation-lists-2012-updates/14218

budgio
05-01-2013, 09:51 AM
I bought my gens ace lipos from giantshark at an amazing price. They also do Esc,s but not much in the motor dept for buggies.
Gens ace come highly recommended and brca legal.

jenky
05-01-2013, 01:03 PM
Just had an email telling me there out of stock so I've cancelled my order.

s22jgs
05-01-2013, 01:36 PM
Just had an email telling me there out of stock so I've cancelled my order.

Get the stuff linked above mate, then get a 7.5 hoi flux pro from mb models.

Or give Nathan at Ralls racing a ring and see what he can do for you on everything

cigbunt
05-01-2013, 02:25 PM
The motor should be ok. I'd be looking at this lot though rather than turnigy

Esc http://www.giantshark.co.uk/xerun60asd-brushless-competitive-p-405855.html

Programming card http://www.giantshark.co.uk/hobbywing-professional-program-p-403901.html

Batteries http://www.giantshark.co.uk/gens-5300mah-2s1p-hardcase-pack-p-407507.html

Servo http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/radios/savox-sc-1252mg-low-profile-super-speed-metal-gear-digital-servo.html

hobbywing esc is decent but gaintshark also do a saker which is a copy

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/sale-saker-p-407499.html

£30! defo worth the punt

Dandare
05-01-2013, 03:16 PM
hobbywing esc is decent but gaintshark also do a saker which is a copy

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/sale-saker-p-407499.html

£30! defo worth the punt

I have noticed the programme cards haven't been available for a good few weeks+ for those Saker esc's, in case you're looking at getting one.

cigbunt
05-01-2013, 05:59 PM
I have noticed the programme cards haven't been available for a good few weeks+ for those Saker esc's, in case you're looking at getting one.

i thought you can just use the hobbywing? you should be able to change the sw with the usb prog box.

s22jgs
06-01-2013, 10:31 AM
So all my Schumacher shims arrived yesterday.
On the rear hubs you can just squeeze in 2mm in front and 2.5mm behind. It's a little tight be loosens up if you lift and drop the arm a few times. Without the .5 there is a bit more play than I would like.

It does however mean that I now have even more adjustability on the rear hubs.

Do need to look into anodising though as I now have grey shims, pink shocks, orange blocks and motor plate and purple wheel nuts lol

jasonrcb
06-01-2013, 10:38 AM
LOL Steve,you cant beat a bit of mix and match anodising :lol:

s22jgs
06-01-2013, 10:47 AM
Oh you can. I may turn everything grey to match the shims

Next item to address is shock pistons, what fits and whether need to change shafts in order to use others

s22jgs
06-01-2013, 10:30 PM
here we go, my first of many no doubt

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_PIZmOG8aFg/UOn5oE5bMPI/AAAAAAAABB0/wGtCXxFottE/s539/h2.jpg

Supercoolnothing
08-01-2013, 01:51 PM
Well I had my first run with my H2 last night and I have to say I'm well impressed by it even if I did manage to crack one of the steering knuckles in a massive head on collision with another car. I've ordered replacements and the CNC front hub set purely because I fancy trying them. Next on the list of things to get are some softer springs for the back end I think I'm going to try the Hobao ones to see how they perform and some new lipo stick packs to replace my ageing Trakpower ones.

Nic And
08-01-2013, 08:04 PM
How can you get 3 deg rear toe? The stock is 4 degrees

s22jgs
09-01-2013, 06:25 AM
first run last night. Got to grips with it in practice and lots of changes. Loads on understeer as this thing has so much rear end grip.

first q was a solid b final run. Next 2 were quicker each time and was on mid high A final pace but kept making silly mistakes.

very impressed with the car. On pace with my highly modified Durango and quicker if i had avoided tangles.

will post a setup tomorrow

s22jgs
09-01-2013, 07:59 AM
managed to get it done this morning lol

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qz_zEHyhJP0/UO0iyEPXv1I/AAAAAAAABCA/m_YtdJnFZ9E/s640/H2_Maritime_130108.png

Adamp9
10-01-2013, 09:48 AM
I'm building my h2 at the moment. Really pressed but a bit confused. What kind of oil should I put in the diff? I kind of hoped they'd include some to start me off. Sorry guys its been years since I built a car and I don't think I've ever built a geared diff.

sly
10-01-2013, 11:17 AM
I had 5k in mine and was good now this weekend I'm trying 10k just like my Durango.
Build wise the car was very good to build no issues at all.
Losi pinks and 4 hole 1.3mm 25wt rear
losi blue and 4 hole standard 30wt front.
Medium high grip Astro indoors.
Overall very impressive car so far

jasonrcb
10-01-2013, 12:03 PM
My setup is pretty much along the same line as sly and steve.

8K diff oil
Front shocks,4 hole pistons,blue losi springs,32.5 fastrax oil
Rear shocks,4 hole pistons,yellow losi springs,27.5 fastrax oil

I have 20g weight in front of the servo,80g weight under the lipo's,although i run my car in saddle formation so the under lipo weight may not be right for the car in stick layout.

Cant fault the car at the minute,its getting better with each metting:thumbsup:

s22jgs
10-01-2013, 12:53 PM
how thick on the dif oil?? LOL

s22jgs
10-01-2013, 09:49 PM
Anyone found pistons that are the correct size for the body and shaft and e clip style?

MHeadling
10-01-2013, 10:00 PM
Maybe try the AE big bore pistons? (BB with e clip) You can have a measure up on some of my spares from my 44.2 if you want?

s22jgs
11-01-2013, 07:03 AM
yes please Mr h

MHeadling
11-01-2013, 04:12 PM
I'm at Maritime on Sunday and I'll have them with me then.

s22jgs
11-01-2013, 05:03 PM
im not lol

vrooom
11-01-2013, 06:28 PM
Is it possible to put the steering rank/arms from H2 onto tlr22 ???

s22jgs
11-01-2013, 07:43 PM
why would u want to?

s22jgs
11-01-2013, 07:44 PM
latest sheet done :p

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IrzU9UXwJmo/UPBkgmcoscI/AAAAAAAABCk/x3-TgPEiuDI/s512/H2_Maritime_130110.jpg

vrooom
11-01-2013, 08:19 PM
why would u want to?

to get smoother wobble free steering, and abilty to change the ackermann angle. in short, why not....

s22jgs
11-01-2013, 11:15 PM
to get smoother wobble free steering, and abilty to change the ackermann angle. in short, why not....

U can change the Ackerman on both cars anyway and the h2 has just as much slop. The 22 has an abundance of steering while the h2 lacks it so if anything ud want to be looking at putting 22 parts on the h2, not the other way round.

But to answer the question, no I don't think ure gonna be able to fit the h2 bell cranks etc on the 22

cryer-evo
12-01-2013, 06:06 PM
any more pics of these

Supercoolnothing
12-01-2013, 06:42 PM
A wee piccy of my H2 (

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z221/Supercoolnothing2/IMAG0186_zps39b98e23.jpg

sly
12-01-2013, 06:49 PM
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii249/slymonuk/DSC_0389.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii249/slymonuk/DSC_0356.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii249/slymonuk/DSC_0352.jpg

s22jgs
12-01-2013, 07:20 PM
Sly is that a shorty or a 1s?
How do you find the steering with even less weight ?

jasonrcb
12-01-2013, 07:43 PM
Mine with revised electric's layout,ready for telford tomorrow:thumbsup:

s22jgs
12-01-2013, 07:53 PM
Jason is the ball stud on your servo horn the wrong side?

jasonrcb
12-01-2013, 08:01 PM
Yes steve,im using a different servo horn so now i have more throw and shed loads of steering

gixxer
12-01-2013, 08:32 PM
Anyone found pistons that are the correct size for the body and shaft and e clip style?

I'm a cnc machinist if you can measure them up accurately I can turn you up some blank pistons which you can drill yourself

Let me know if thats of any interest to you

s22jgs
12-01-2013, 08:54 PM
I'll measure them in a few matey

sly
12-01-2013, 09:51 PM
Sly is that a shorty or a 1s?
How do you find the steering with even less weight ?

The cells are a stubby pack and the dualsky sits at the back of the servo brace with about 8/9mm spare for added weight if needed.
I had no problem for steering last sunday the car had loads for are astro indoors, loads of rear side bite and traction forward was almost 4wd feeling.

I have fitted some durango rims so i can use them tires up but it does take the width up 250 max.
I also have done away with the e clips and bought some spare shock shafts for the car and machined and taped the end 3mm and fitted them on the rear.
the front e clips have also been replace with the spare shock shaft but need trimming in lenght first.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii249/slymonuk/DSC_0397.jpg

s22jgs
12-01-2013, 10:37 PM
The cells are a stubby pack and the dualsky sits at the back of the servo brace with about 8/9mm spare for added weight if needed.
I had no problem for steering last sunday the car had loads for are astro indoors, loads of rear side bite and traction forward was almost 4wd feeling.

I have fitted some durango rims so i can use them tires up but it does take the width up 250 max.
I also have done away with the e clips and bought some spare shock shafts for the car and machined and taped the end 3mm and fitted them on the rear.
the front e clips have also been replace with the spare shock shaft but need trimming in lenght first.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii249/slymonuk/DSC_0397.jpg

The losi 22 threaded hinge pins could save a lot of hassle there

s22jgs
14-01-2013, 05:00 PM
so how did people go with their h2's over the weekend?

jasonrcb
14-01-2013, 05:15 PM
Further improvements yesterday,the blue/yellow spring combo suited the car much better,changing to AE black grease in the diff was the biggest improvement and felt just about spot on,plenty thick enough to stop the car diffing out but still keeping the diff action nice and free,the saddle pack layout does really seem to be suiting the car also.

Really good feedback from people watching the car yesterday,and seeing how it had improved from its first meeting out.

s22jgs
14-01-2013, 05:50 PM
i guess the black grease is the same theory as using 650 shock oil in the diff. Personally id rather use the oil COs its easier to clean and can be tuned per track

in resisting modifying mine for the side by side saddles. The car lacks front weight so a full stick helps a little with that, along with the 70g weight i have on the servo

what surface are you running on Jason? We found that the car needed a harder rear spring to stop it collapsing so much and keep some weight to the front to reduce understeer

jasonrcb
14-01-2013, 06:03 PM
All of the racing i do is outdoor offroad,yesterday was bumpy wet astro with a few jumps and lots of sections with alot of direction changes.

I have been making weights up today for the front end so i will test them at the weekend,im currently only running 20g added weight up the front,having it in saddle and the electrics up front seems to work for me,yesterday i was taking front end away as im getting so much grip and steering out of the car.

I will start playing with oils in the diff once i have the car how i want it,at the minute the AE grease is about right so its 1 less thing i can leave and work on other things.

The main thing feedback wise from yesterday was how much grip and front end im generating in the wet conditions,i can really car the car hard into corners,also yesterday i was running the Dboot multibytes B compound and they also seem to give plenty of grip in the wet

s22jgs
14-01-2013, 06:11 PM
Interesting lol. Front end grip was the one thing I was lacking.
Hence the setup I'm now running

What holes are you running your front shocks in at the moment?

I'm running the front hubs as low as they can go now too

jasonrcb
14-01-2013, 06:17 PM
front shocks im running middle tower,middle wishbone,32.5 oil and std 4 hole pistons,front hub as per kit,raised the ballstuds 3mm on the front bulkhead to calm the front end down.

s22jgs
14-01-2013, 09:41 PM
cool.... I guess if ure running saddles which are lighter and electrics up front then ure car will be less rear heavy.
the cab forward will also help.

I got a few more setup type things to try before I change the layout. I tend to rush into things but im resisting with this one..wanna exhaust all setup option before pulling out the dremel

budgio
15-01-2013, 09:51 PM
Just needs running now :)
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/E0974963-D307-40E4-90FC-787A18D0F00C-312-00000047D1281F88.jpg

cigbunt
15-01-2013, 11:28 PM
i ran mine tonight was a bit of a last min dash to get it built...
wired up all my elecs last night car was built it mid motor 3 gears plugged in my motor ( a b c to a b c) hit the throttle and the car goes backwards lol!had to rewire my motor wires to the wrong terminals.

what springs are y'all using when you say losi do you mean from the 22? are they a perfect fit on the cups? wanna place a order asap

another thing i'd like is bleeder shock tops does anyone know any that'll fit?

for the £ its a great kit just needs a decent setup!

Moose
16-01-2013, 11:33 AM
hit the throttle and the car goes backwards lol!had to rewire my motor wires to the wrong terminals.
You just had to calibrate the speedo or reverse the throtte on the radio..

cigbunt
16-01-2013, 01:02 PM
You just had to calibrate the speedo or reverse the throtte on the radio..

No thay wouldnt change the way the motor was traveling,

KRob
16-01-2013, 04:59 PM
It depends which side of the gearbox you have put the spur gear.
If you have 3 gears inside, as you look from the back of the car the spur gear should be on the right.
If you've built it 3 gear and put the spur on the left then yes, it will go backwards.

cigbunt
16-01-2013, 06:37 PM
It depends which side of the gearbox you have put the spur gear.
If you have 3 gears inside, as you look from the back of the car the spur gear should be on the right.
If you've built it 3 gear and put the spur on the left then yes, it will go backwards.

yep its on the left... the main thing is it goes forwards now :thumbsup:
was easier to swap the motor wire then taking everything apart

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 08:33 PM
ok so heres one for Jason or anyone else who has one of these already.

having major issues with the rear block shims for anti squat.

the setup sheet shows options of 1,2 and 3 degrees anti squat. Now logically that to me says thinnest shim under front rear block and thinnest on top of rear block for 1 degree. Middle thickness for 2 degree and thickest for 3 degree.

in the manual it shows using the thickest inserts, so 3 degrees, yet on the kit setup sheet it shows kit anti squat as 1 degree.

so how are these shims supposed to work? The real issue hear is that if my logic above is correct, then there is a design fault with the gearbox.

i say this because if you run the middle or thinnest shims, then the bottom of the gearbox, the part that rests on the chassis not pokes through, is too low. This creates a gap between the blocks and chassis and when tightened up causes the chassis to bend. This bend in turn removes all anti squat, which could explain the immense rear end grip and lack of steering.

anyone got any views on how these are supposed to work or got the same bent chassis at the rear when tightened up?

sly
17-01-2013, 09:04 PM
The back block the shim stays the same at all times i think, the one with a 0 on it.
the front block, i first found the single thick shim kept the the chassis straight and gave max anti squat when under the block , then using the other shims the longer one on the bottom and the shorter(pimples both sides of it) on the top of the block you get 1 and 2 degrees.
hope this helps.

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 09:23 PM
that cant be right... otherwise why would you get different sizes of both shim.

The idea with the shims is that you put one under the front block to set the anti squat. you then put the same thickness on top of the rear block to keep the gearbox sitting level.

By putting shims on top of the front block you are not altering the antisquat, but tilting the gearbox back.

Its the same idea as the losi 22. one to set anti squat, and one to keep the gearbox level.

But the gearbox has been designed wrong and wont allow for anything lower than 3 degrees from what I can work out - and being really picky, even that creates a slight bend on the chassis too

sly
17-01-2013, 09:27 PM
Its only the front block that moves up and down with the shims.
I'm 99.9% sure as I only worked that out early tonight.

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 09:29 PM
cant be otherwise the rear block would have been made to not need spacers.

putting shims on top of the front block does not alter the antisquat. it tilts the gearbox which does nothing put put everything out of place

sly
17-01-2013, 09:38 PM
Take everything off and with just the box and blocks play around with the shims on the front block.
it does seem the rear block is made wrong but leave the 0 shim on the top at the rear. Nothing fits underneath.
And the other shims do make up various angle.

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 09:47 PM
Take everything off and with just the box and blocks play around with the shims on the front block.
it does seem the rear block is made wrong but leave the 0 shim on the top at the rear. Nothing fits underneath.
And the other shims do make up various angle.


I understand what you are saying, but its not physically possible.

If you run the 0 on top of rear block, and thickest under the front, you have what is clearly supposed to be 3 degrees anti squat.

If you reduce the front spacer, but leave the 0 on the rear, then yes you reduce anti squat, but you also make the gearbox tilt forward, which alters the shock alignment, and moves ballstuds etc.

If as you say you put shims on TOP of the front block, then this does not alter the hinge pin angle, and therefore does not change the angle of antisquat. it merely tilts the gearbox.

Maybe im missing something here, but the idea of having front and rear spacers is to set the anti squat, but also keep the gearbox in a level position

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 09:52 PM
OMG I think I finally get it.

sly
17-01-2013, 10:01 PM
Take the front shim and its size is approximately 2mm and gives 3degrees.take that front 2mm shim and replace it with the thinness long shim approximately 0.5mm place it under the front block, the short double pimple shim approximately 1.5mm on top of the front block and then your back to the same height as the 3degree setting but have 1degree
the more I think and look at my carits the only way it can go.

sly
17-01-2013, 10:02 PM
OMG I think I finally get it.

Was I right lol?

s22jgs
17-01-2013, 10:27 PM
i dunno lol

it seems a bit arse about face but yeh 0 on the rear at all times and a combo to equal the same 3mm combined spacing on front

cigbunt
18-01-2013, 03:36 PM
im used to having bleeder caps on my shocks.. (maybe ive been spoilt)

would cutting the bladder work on these shocks

s22jgs
18-01-2013, 04:15 PM
im used to having bleeder caps on my shocks.. (maybe ive been spoilt)

would cutting the bladder work on these shocks

i wouldnt as the hole at top of cap is not sealed with the plastic mount

They are easy to build though

cigbunt
18-01-2013, 04:38 PM
i wouldnt as the hole at top of cap is not sealed with the plastic mount

They are easy to build though

how do you adjust the rebound?

s22jgs
18-01-2013, 04:47 PM
if you want full rebound, then shaft fully extended when you put bladder and cap on

no rebound push it pretty much all the way in before bladder and cap go on.

basically, however far the shaft is extended when you put the bladder and cap on, is how far it should push back out.

cigbunt
18-01-2013, 04:53 PM
if you want full rebound, then shaft fully extended when you put bladder and cap on

no rebound push it pretty much all the way in before bladder and cap go on.

basically, however far the shaft is extended when you put the bladder and cap on, is how far it should push back out.

didn't think of it like that genius

tdi250
22-01-2013, 08:16 AM
I bought one!!

budgio
24-01-2013, 09:38 PM
Jimmy has made us a Hobao Forum

maybe this thread can be moved there?

Getpip
30-01-2013, 10:45 PM
I've noticed some confusion regarding the anti squat shims.

The shims should be considered as pairs, one round ended and one square, each measuring the same thickness.

The rounded shim should should be fitted on top of the rear block the square one should be fitted below the front block.

As long as the same thickness shim is used front and rear the gearbox will remain level and only the hinge pin angle will change.

My kit only came with two options (0 and 1) but if you look at the parts diagram in the manual it shows 3 different pairs. (Hence the 3 settings on the set up page)

HTH :)

s22jgs
31-01-2013, 09:27 PM
I've noticed some confusion regarding the anti squat shims.

The shims should be considered as pairs, one round ended and one square, each measuring the same thickness.

The rounded shim should should be fitted on top of the rear block the square one should be fitted below the front block.

As long as the same thickness shim is used front and rear the gearbox will remain level and only the hinge pin angle will change.

My kit only came with two options (0 and 1) but if you look at the parts diagram in the manual it shows 3 different pairs. (Hence the 3 settings on the set up page)

HTH :)

Not strictly correct... its all above.

You have to run the 0 curved shim on top of the rear block at all times.

You use the square shims under the front block, 1, 2 and 3mm for 1, 2 and 3 degrees of antisquat.

If you run 3 degrees of antisquat, then you do not need a shim on top of the front block.

If you run 2 degrees, then you need 1mm on top of front block.

And likewise, is you run 1 degree then you need 2mm on top of the front block.

Basically, both the front and the rear must be a total of 3mm of inserts. Otherwise the chassis bends round the bottom of the gearbox and induces a loss of antisquat, or as I found, positive antisquat.

Getpip
31-01-2013, 10:54 PM
It's not as complicated as that.
The shims are marked 0, 1 and 2. (And come in pairs, one of each shape)
Whatever size shim you use on top of the rear block use the corresponding size shim under the front block. (Not on top) This keeps the total height of front and rear blocks the same.
If you do this the gearbox will remain level but the hinge pin angle (anti squat) will change.
The thicker the shims the greater the anti squat.
Give it a try.

s22jgs
31-01-2013, 11:06 PM
It's not as complicated as that.
The shims are marked 0, 1 and 2. (And come in pairs, one of each shape)
Whatever size shim you use on top of the rear block use the corresponding size shim under the front block. (Not on top) This keeps the total height of front and rear blocks the same.
If you do this the gearbox will remain level but the hinge pin angle (anti squat) will change.
Give it a try.

i think ill find it is. I thought as u say at first but it causes the chassis to bend.

the idea is to keep the gearbox the same height, not just level

Getpip
31-01-2013, 11:17 PM
Well as long as you've found something that works for you it's all good. :thumbsup:

s22jgs
31-01-2013, 11:23 PM
Well as long as you've found something that works for you it's all good. :thumbsup:

lol yeh its called a yokomo.

i checked with cml on the use of shims as the chassis was bent at the rear. They confirmed it is as i have said above.

if you measure the size of the bit that sits in the chassis hole it is 3mm. Therefore if you run less than a total of 3mm you end up with a gap between the blocks and box mounts. This causes the chassis to bend round the box bottom when screwed down.

its not what works, its how its designed to be used.

its the same as the 22 system, works exactly the same way keeping the box level and also at the same height.

s22jgs
31-01-2013, 11:44 PM
if u really don't beleive me try this.....

remove the front block and all shims, then sit the box in position on the chassis. The gap between the box mount and rear block will be 3mm.

what's gonna happen if you bolt the box down? The chassis is going to bend around the box bottom as it gets pulled into that 3mm gap. This has the effect of raising the rear block and reducing the antisquat.

so that gap must be filled with a 3mm at all times.

the same goes for the front block but because you are raising this, you adjust the shim size on top to fill the gap.

Getpip
01-02-2013, 12:20 AM
I can see what you mean Steve and I can see the chassis deformation you mention.

So your theory is that whatever the thickness of the rear shim (0) the total thickness of the front shims, above and below the block should be the same?

I can see that and it makes sense as the gearbox will then remain at the same height.

I'll give it a go.

s22jgs
01-02-2013, 06:56 AM
yes mate. Basically always use the '0' 3mm shim on rear block. Then your front shims should total 3mm too

Staxman
28-02-2013, 09:57 AM
Morning all.

I have recently bought a H2 pro.
I have built it per the instructions in the mid motor config.
Took it out for its first run last friday at my local club, and the car ran well (and so did I for the first time out with an rc car for over 10 years)

I was running indoor on carpet at Ribble Valley in Leyland and had Schumacher Yellow Mini pins all round.

I did however have a problem with the car cocking a wheel when turning.
I lowered the car as low as it would go using the different shock mounting positions on the towers and wishbones, but was still having the same problem but to a lesser extent.

Just looking for some advice on setup to try and get rid of this problem.
Im guessing shock oil and springs will be on the agenda.

Cheers
Chris.....

wookster
27-06-2013, 09:23 AM
having fun bleeding my shock and getting consistent rebound, I prefer to run as little as possible.

any suggestions

Stickygeko
27-07-2014, 05:29 PM
Morning all.

I have recently bought a H2 pro.
I have built it per the instructions in the mid motor config.
Took it out for its first run last friday at my local club, and the car ran well (and so did I for the first time out with an rc car for over 10 years)

I was running indoor on carpet at Ribble Valley in Leyland and had Schumacher Yellow Mini pins all round.

I did however have a problem with the car cocking a wheel when turning.
I lowered the car as low as it would go using the different shock mounting positions on the towers and wishbones, but was still having the same problem but to a lesser extent.

Just looking for some advice on setup to try and get rid of this problem.
Im guessing shock oil and springs will be on the agenda.

Cheers
Chris.....

We have been going to ribble valley for 3 weeks now... my son races a durango 210 and I'm looking to get myself a car to race too. H2 pro are now £99 so very interested. Do you still have your h2 and do you still got to ribble valley? Wouldn't mind a nosey if that's ok?

Will Bailey
29-07-2014, 07:11 PM
Hey guys, I've just bought a H2 Pro Kit, any tips before I go about setting it up?

JumperTH
30-11-2014, 09:13 PM
my new H2 Pro :thumbsup:

wookieewonder
02-12-2014, 01:26 PM
/\ looks good! Is that a losi 22 shell? For a second I thought you had mounted a lit candle on the wing!! (Extra Xmas points) lol:woot:

JumperTH
04-12-2014, 12:12 PM
that´s the new hobao h2pro body... in germany come all new kits with this body in the box ;-)

much better than the old one!!!

JumperTH
04-12-2014, 12:16 PM
here is a new professional picture without candle on the wing ;-)

Coopz
07-01-2015, 08:56 AM
Where do you get those bodies from? Anywhere that ships internationally? I dislike the stock H2 shell, looks top heavy.

rcmonkee
20-02-2015, 08:58 AM
here is a new professional picture without candle on the wing ;-)

Loads better than the original. Have you got a part number for the new shell? I cannot find one to bu anywhere?

jasonrcb
30-03-2015, 12:55 PM
As Hobao seems to have gone very quiet these days i thought i would give the brand a kick start,here is my latest version Cobra Racing H2,i now run the car in 3 gear mid layout and the transformation in all conditions has been great with so much more grip and rear drive in low conditions and feeling more to the pace of forward motor cars in high grip

tdi250
03-04-2015, 02:36 PM
That's confused me! I thought 3 gear mid would give less rear drive than 4 gear mid?

adey
03-04-2015, 03:12 PM
That's got me too. I can see it being better with on power steering but I would of expected less out of the corner traction with 3 gears. I suppose running saddles towards the back helps loads though. either way it's a great car for the money.

jasonrcb
03-04-2015, 04:23 PM
Confused me also but the car is so much better all round in 3 gear,i also run a gear diff which again is supposed to be the wrong thing to do,no saddles either just a shorty to move the weight as the track changes.

It's been strange but everyone who has driven my car has said how much better it is with 3 gear and personally now i wouldn't go back to running a 4 gear transmission,another occasion of rather than believing what everyone thinks try it yourself as it might just work for you

tdi250
03-04-2015, 05:54 PM
How odd. I've been running the 3 gear option in my B5M indoors for a while and didn't really notice the difference to be honest. Was intending to race at Frankley today and had converted back to 4 gear for it. I'll certainly be interested to see how it goes outdoors in 3 gear.

jasonrcb
04-04-2015, 06:31 AM
I'm surprised you didn't notice any difference as all I know that have made the change felt it almost instantly,I planned to do frankley also but plans had to change,we had a guy go yesterday with a 3 gear cobra who only finished building the car at lunchtime yesterday,the car had never turned a wheel till his first race,he rang me last night and his first word was thankyou, he said between the chassis and changing to the 3 gear version it was the best the car had ever felt in low grip and his report echoed all I had found with the car,by the final he was matching lap times of the tq man,not bad considering it was the first time he had driven the car and had no setup time.

Personally I think 3 gear is the way to go in low grip and in high grip I think its also better unless you have forward motor which will be my choice,but a cobra/hobao forward motor is for another thread 😁

tdi250
04-04-2015, 07:03 AM
I probably didn't notice the difference cos I'm not very good. Lol. Will defo give the 3 gear a run for outdoors though after reading your thoughts on the matter.

jasonrcb
04-04-2015, 07:24 AM
Come and see me at any of the meetings mate,your more than welcome to try my car,there are a few of us running 3 gear now so there will be plenty of setup help and ideas to try

tdi250
05-04-2015, 02:16 PM
Cheers Jason.

I'll do that.

Zonked
28-09-2016, 06:11 PM
Hey guys. was curious if the wheels from my old 22 would fit this car ?

fidspeed
01-10-2016, 09:24 PM
I think so

MHeadling
02-10-2016, 07:25 AM
Yes they will for sure, quite a few 22 parts fit this car

Zonked
03-10-2016, 01:49 PM
Thank you guys ! Wanted to try something different and figured I would give this a go.

Zonked
16-12-2016, 03:59 PM
any of you guys have a setup for clay ? Just curious what to put in the diff