K1 first drive slippidge

[Tobamory]

Ok chaps not an expert but i managed to get all the stuff in the car.

Couple of questions really.

When i accelerate the car gains speed slowly, as though something is slipping, where do i start to look, im presuming diffs at back and front need tighting? or would it be the large center gear that the motor fastens to ?

Also could anybody show me there insides, i just want to get a view of where youve stuck ya ESC etc. Id also like to see how your batt look.

Im going direct into batt with bullet, but the joining leads needs some work as at present its a bit of a faff to get in.

thanks

[James]

If the car 'squarks' under acceleration the diff (probably rear) needs tightening, do this 1/8 of a turn at a time, if its more of whining noise the slipper clutch needs tightening, again 1/8 turn at a time until it stops.

[Tobamory]

James I've tightened the middle slipper to the max and its still the same.

So I guess back diff, any easy way to get to it, other than dismantle ?

[Andrew Twigger]

Both wheels off, outer turnbuckles off and then a 2mm driver into each outdrive. Is the diff action still smooth now that they've been slipping?

[James]

Just take a wheel off and pop the balljoint on the screw head side.

[Tobamory]

Both wheels off, outer turnbuckles off and then a 2mm driver into each outdrive. Is the diff action still smooth now that they've been slipping?

When I spin one wheel other doesn't turn, so I think your right I'm gonna go try now

I'm presuming if its too slack it doesn't work well.

[Andrew Twigger]

Sounds like it's not tight enough. If you set the diff tension as per the manual, I would suspect it has come undone, as it shouldn't slip. The key to setting the tension is to tighten the diff screw (once the tension is as desired) and the setting screw (in the opposite outdrive) against one another at the same time. There's no way it'll come undone if it was tightened in this way.

[Tobamory]

Ok so I've tightened the diffs at both sides front and back, I've also tightend the slip in the middle. Tight as I can

If I put my foot on the car I can throttle away and it stands still, doesn't try to drive away

Any ideas

[Andrew Twigger]

Can you describe what happens when you try to accelerate?

Are you sure your pinion/spur mesh is correct? If the mesh is too loose then the pinion will tear the spur teeth straight off.

[Tobamory]

If I accelerate the belts spin and the car gradually gains speed, as though I was on ice.

If I put my, foot In front of the car and accelerate the car stands still no real anger to claw my leg off, the belt spins and speed and I can see it go faster as I accelerate so that's working

I've just checked the back diff, and I can't tighten it anymore.

A bit like a clutch slipping on a proper car

[Andrew Twigger]

So now when you turn a single wheel by hand front and rear, the wheel on the other side turns in the opposite direction?

If your diffs are ok and your mesh is ok, then the only other possibilities are that the belts are too loose and are slipping on the pulleys, or you left the drive pins out of the driveshafts :confused:

[mark christopher]

Do your belts and pullies still have any teeth on them? If so your diffs are wrong, you have unwound the locking screw before you adjusted them?

[Tobamory]

If I lift the car off the floor it accelerates like it should.

I think it's most probably the diff, but I can't get my head round it's as tight as I can get it but yet seems to slip.

Any resistance ie on the floor my foot and it slips

[Andrew Twigger]

As Mark suggested, you need to back the 'lock' screw off before trying to tighten the diff. The lock screw side is the one with the orange o ring in it.

[Tobamory]

Guys I've done it

I'm was being special, I back tracked and remembered what you said above, I was probably tightening the wrong screw which of course has a negative effect on the other.

I check it loosened the lock screw tightened the diff then back an eighth and its wheel spinning all over the kitchen

Appreciate the feedback and sorry for being a noob,

Any of you mind showing me how your insides look I'm hanging fun laying the wires and wanted some ideas

[Andrew Twigger]

There's a couple in here. (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117415&page=3)

[Tobamory]

thanks Andrew.

Whilst i have you could you advise on what spares one would buy to cater for raceing, as in common break points, i know wishbones can be prone as always.

I also saw a few people comment that the front suspension brace the fibreglass upright snaps, any advice on either a stronger version or modifications to stop this ?

[Andrew Twigger]

Essential spares:

Front and rear wishbones
Rear hubs
Inner hingepins
Front yokes
Suspension block set
Front bumper set

I changed the gearbox tops, suspension blocks F&R and steering yokes to alloy when I built the car. I would say the alloy front gearbox tops are essential. The others the standard ones are fine.

Nice to have:

Outer hingepins
Shock shafts
Front and rear shock towers
Turnbuckles
Ball grippas
Wheel bearings
Screws

Haven't broken anything myself yet so can't comment on the front shock tower. Wes Jolly will do you a front shock tower protector for a very reasonable price if you message him. It just helps stop the shocks digging into the ground when you crash.

[Tobamory]

thanks Andrew

where would i buy upgrades like the gerabox stuff etc. just surfed but cant see any shops with them

[mark christopher]

here http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/schumacher/k1.html?limit=all

[Mike Parker]

Or here :) http://number5rc.co.uk/index.php/cPath/24_38_103

I've just started trading in RC alongside the shell painting, if there is owt specific you need just give us a holla :)

MikeP