rebuilding diff in db1

[forbesy]

ive just rebuilt my diff in my db1 using new diff plates, new gears, new thrust race, new ceramic rudebits balls, but it doesnt want to stop slipping untill i do it up tight which i havent done as i thought it would snap the thrust race!! ive ran it in twice too but that really hasnt helped :confused:

any ideas pls chaps.........

[deano43]

ive just rebuilt my diff in my db1 using new diff plates, new gears, new thrust race, new ceramic rudebits balls, but it doesnt want to stop slipping untill i do it up tight which i havent done as i thought it would snap the thrust race!! ive ran it in twice too but that really hasnt helped :confused:

any ideas pls chaps.........

i have had this issue but what i found was that backing off the screw the tinnest amount make a difference to adjusting the diff i initially backed off the the diff 1/4 of a turn and it felt like it would fall apart so i tightened it up fully and backed off in very small amounts until it felt ok i bet in the end it was backed off about a 1/4 of a 1/4 of a turn if that makes any sense , oh this was on a rb6 which i believe is the same diff if so then try that. They do seem very sensitive but very smooth

[forbesy]

all sorted now

thanks..........

[RogerM]

Glad you got it sorted. Kyosho use a relatively soft diff spring to keep the adjustment range as large as possible. So it is imperative that a new one is exercised well before use.

Deano, I never recommend tightening up a diff fully & backing off as you can damage the plates if you go too far. I build the diff then tighten till you have to use noticeable effort to turn the gear whilst holding the outdrives stationary. Once run in @ 1/3rd throttle for 2mins per side I normally find its just a small adjustment to get it right from there.

[deano43]

Glad you got it sorted. Kyosho use a relatively soft diff spring to keep the adjustment range as large as possible. So it is imperative that a new one is exercised well before use.

Deano, I never recommend tightening up a diff fully & backing off as you can damage the plates if you go too far. I build the diff then tighten till you have to use noticeable effort to turn the gear whilst holding the outdrives stationary. Once run in @ 1/3rd throttle for 2mins per side I normally find its just a small adjustment to get it right from there.

Thanks for the heads up roger I have always built them like that then backed off normally 1/4 of a turn I don't mean proper tighten it I mean tight as just when you feel it stop and I normally get nice diffs but having said that 1. You have a vast knowledge of cars it seems reading your posts 2. These are not run of the mill cars but the adjustment window on kyosho is a lot less than say schumacher cars and not a bad thing just different but when I replace the diff balls with ceramic ones I will certainly do it your way to make sure I don't damage anything

[RogerM]

The issue is ceramic balls are much harder than any manufactures diff plates.

I've always found the Kyosho diffs have a great range of adjustment, much more and it leads to inconsistency of setting build to build. Generally from fully locked to slightly slipping is about 2/3rds of a turn on the driver (although I hold the driver still and rotate the wheel to get best feel)