View Full Version : What Lube ? - DEX410 gearboxes
Hiya
Im going to be running my DEx410 tonight at Maritime. It's brand new so I know the gears might be a tad noisey at first. However I ran it on the table last night and it does seem REALLY noisey. Drive train is free and I have used Pedro DryWax on the gears which I have used in Gearboxes and on driveshafts for years. Just wondering though if the DEX needs a thicker lube at all ?
Both front and rear boxes built as per the team build on TD's website and have no float in them, though are not so tight that they bind.
Looking forward to the replies and thank for your help :)
/tobys
19-03-2013, 11:23 AM
The metal on metal gears are noisier than plastic on plastic of other shaft driven 1/10th buggies. As long as you have meshed it up OK as per TD website, I'm sure what you've put on will be fine.
mattr
19-03-2013, 11:29 AM
The gears are noisy, the shafts are noisy (unless you get d-joints)
They quieten down after a few weeks of use, then they start to get play, and are noisy again........
KennyClark
19-03-2013, 12:00 PM
I use associated black grease on the gears.
RichyUK
19-03-2013, 01:17 PM
i used the supplied green grease on mine and its always been fine
Cheers guys
I kinda guessed they might bed in a bit. I never did get any lube in my kit though :cry:
I will give the car a run then inspect the gearboxes as they only take 5 minutes to get out both ends, will be able to see if it needs anything extra then.
Fingers crossed....havent done 4wd for some time hehe
mattr
19-03-2013, 01:52 PM
FWIW, i've just used a light lithium grease (same stuff i use on my bikes) and that seems to work well.
Adam Skelding
19-03-2013, 02:04 PM
Most greases used in RC will be fine. The TD 'green' grease, AE black grease or Xray's black grease.
I shim all my diffs with 1 silver shim on the case and either 1 or 0 brass shims on the gear. Best thing is to check that the diff assembly spins freely without the input shaft in place and there is little or no side to side play of the assembly in the case.
Also, check the input gear has little or no end float forward and back with the 'drive shaft collar' #310116 in place. Once all the case is together, check again for nice free spinning and no tight spots.
Like others have said, a couple of runs and the gears 'bed' themselves in. For quiet running the machined gears do offer a big improvement and don't wear out. I've had mine in for over 2 years now and they are still fine.
Hi Adam
I've already fitted the machined gears, bought a few upgrade bits on the initial build as thought i may as well get them in their first time. Built the box as you mention to, gear spins fine (within reason with the bearings still having a little grease in them) and is shimmed only to allow enough float to spin (and thats barely half a mm i think). The gear coming in is also spaced right clamping the bearings tight, but not throttling them so there is no float, but free play. I ended up actually building the box with the diff in and no input shaft, and then input shaft no diff to check all this, then again with everything in as well.
I've also put some heatshrink around the CV's but will organise getting some boots for those soon.
Will write back after tonight though...hopefully not in tears hehehe :)
xtreme-rc
19-03-2013, 03:06 PM
hi,
it might be worth getting ed to check out the mesh/freeplay as adam has said when built with the machine cut gears they are bomb proof. ed will be at maritime tonight if you want to have a chat.
xtreme
Cheers for all the help guys. Car ran faultless. I took the time to open the boxes and add in a little additional black grease also. After about 2 runs the boxes are almost silent and silky smooth.
Really impressed with the car, although i need to work on the setup as it had bags of front end and wanted to cartwheel everytime i hit the carpet turn in. Aside from that i just need to get used to controling it in the air. Simply awesome car.
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