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Smartalec
28-03-2013, 10:15 PM
Hi all,
This has all been mentioned before but with a lot more TM2's out there being used now from the second batch I'll refresh the info :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
BEFORE you plug in your lipo dremel or file away the battery brace around the area where the connectors enter the lipo, you will need to remove around 2 or 3mm of the carbon brace. Don't be worrying about strength, this thing is beyond overkill for holding in the lipo so cut away more than you need (better safe than sorry). When you've finished mark the end so you know which way round to fit it in the car. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Team C have blessed us all with tapered pistons as standard items in the kit, be careful when building the shocks as the instruction manual shows them the wrong way up. The taper should face down the shaft towards the thread :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
When assembling the rear top deck there are two small spacers that fit under the deck on top of the alloy centre assembly. These are easily lost when working on the car at the track. To avoid dropping them, super glue them to the top deck. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
If you want a more planted rear end to the car try using the 1 degree alloy rear hubs from the TC02c. To use these you will need to also use the pivot pins from the 2wd family and ream out the hole in the wishbone to accept the larger pin. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
To create more flex (more grip) cut through the rear top deck with a dremel. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Remember that BOTH the blocks that hold the rear pivot pins in place (one in front and one behind the gearbox) can be turned upside down to give more or less anti squat. You can also add spacers under these for even more adjustment as required. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
The two screws that hold the motor clamp in place need to be TIGHT so my tip is to replace them with cap head screws that you can really crank up tight. :thumbsup:

Feel free to add more of your own TTTTTTT (TM2 Team Top Tips To This Thread);)
Alec

porschesse
28-03-2013, 10:29 PM
Cheers Alec for the tips am just building my new car so very useful!
Also Iain Mellish recommends drilling another hole in the rear wishbones for more droop and grip for outdoors.
Am enjoying the build so far hope it's ready for Sunday :-)

welshmerlin
28-03-2013, 11:51 PM
Also

1. Change kevlar spur gear to standard nylon or RW Racing

2. Change rear hex roll pins to cut body clips

3. See link for shiming diff www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPwRsEhYYug&feature=youtube_gdata_player (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPwRsEhYYug&feature=youtube_gdata_player)

4. See link for further tips on "Team C" forum http://forum.teamcracing.net/?fromuser=welshmerlin (http://forum.teamcracing.net/?fromuser=welshmerlin)

zaquiz
31-03-2013, 02:22 PM
Hi all,
This has all been mentioned before but with a lot more TM2's out there being used now from the second batch I'll refresh the info :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
BEFORE you plug in your lipo dremel or file away the battery brace around the area where the connectors enter the lipo, you will need to remove around 2 or 3mm of the carbon brace. Don't be worrying about strength, this thing is beyond overkill for holding in the lipo so cut away more than you need (better safe than sorry). When you've finished mark the end so you know which way round to fit it in the car. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Team C have blessed us all with tapered pistons as standard items in the kit, be careful when building the shocks as the instruction manual shows them the wrong way up. The taper should face down the shaft towards the thread :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
When assembling the rear top deck there are two small spacers that fit under the deck on top of the alloy centre assembly. These are easily lost when working on the car at the track. To avoid dropping them, super glue them to the top deck. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
If you want a more planted rear end to the car try using the 1 degree alloy rear hubs from the TC02c. To use these you will need to also use the pivot pins from the 2wd family and ream out the hole in the wishbone to accept the larger pin. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
To create more flex (more grip) cut through the rear top deck with a dremel. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Remember that BOTH the blocks that hold the rear pivot pins in place (one in front and one behind the gearbox) can be turned upside down to give more or less anti squat. You can also add spacers under these for even more adjustment as required. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
The two screws that hold the motor clamp in place need to be TIGHT so my tip is to replace them with cap head screws that you can really crank up tight. :thumbsup:

Feel free to add more of your own TTTTTTT (TM2 Team Top Tips To This Thread);)
Alec

Alec, we, as in Team C, have 1 dergree hubs for the T4 and TM2 now. Stephen sent them to me a few weeks back and they work great. A little expensive, but very nice indeed. They also come with bigger bearings and carbon top, like the AE ones. Si no need to buy new ones if the ballstud breaks inside the hub…

So far I have only tried them on my T4. Next week I will also do some testing with the TM2.

Cheers,
Zack

stall4king
31-03-2013, 06:57 PM
We drilled the inner hole initially to try and get some extra grip in low grip conditions but it also helps soak up ripply bumps very well, I think the standard inner hole leaves the shocks too laid down for my liking outoors....I don't think I'd evr run it on high grip carpet. I think it's fairly easily done and just gives an extra option :)

carrot
31-03-2013, 08:42 PM
How much farther in are you drilling the hole? thanks

IntegraMark
01-04-2013, 02:54 AM
I tried shimming my diff as per the video but it felt really tight and felt like it was binding a but. I just did it as per the manual and I haven't had any issues but it makes more noise than I expected.

stall4king
01-04-2013, 07:45 AM
How much farther in are you drilling the hole? thanks

It's been drilled at the same distance apart as what the original inner and outer positions are....sorry if that's a bit vague!

I forgot to mention that with the shocks on the drilled hole position you actually get too much droop, to the point where the drive shafts can almost come out of the out drives....we have put some limiters in the shocks to counter this, not sure if this has any other adverse effects, I don't think so! : /

James
15-05-2013, 09:15 PM
Reducing travel will reduce weight transfer - it will add a little off power traction.

Smartalec
16-05-2013, 05:16 AM
Hows the car going James?

James
16-05-2013, 07:50 AM
Did a little testing last night, corners really fast and holds line well. Still don't have all the parts I need and haven't got a shell so was a bit of a cobbled together practice to just turn shake it down and turn the wheels.. Drilling an inner hole of rear wishbones as Ian has done is a definite improvement.

GLYN WARD
16-05-2013, 08:22 AM
as I put on other post found out last night when I was looking at rear shock towers, the carbon one as wing and shock holes 3mm higher than kit one. this came about as we wanted to move the holes and john j lent me a carbon one at grantham sunday.
then ant brought car round last night and we compared them and found out they where diff even on standard one the drive shafts catch slot in cup on up travel

GLYN WARD
16-05-2013, 08:24 AM
Did a little testing last night, corners really fast and holds line well. Still don't have all the parts I need and haven't got a shell so was a bit of a cobbled together practice to just turn shake it down and turn the wheels.. Drilling an inner hole of rear wishbones as Ian has done is a definite improvement.

what parts do you want only ones we have on our car are b4 wheels and cougar front hubs

john333
16-05-2013, 08:57 AM
This shock tower issue wont be a problem for anyone who's bought one as an upgrade. They are an identical fit to the TM2 plastic one.

The issue arose because I lent Glyn one off my T4 (the standard part) thinking it would be the same, but it isn't!

So the moral is dont use a T4 standard kit part on your TM2 lol

James
16-05-2013, 08:57 AM
I've got the schuey front hubs but the outer ballstud arm is so high the amount of bumpsteer it gives is crazy, probably getting on for 15-200degrees at full travel, I've dremelled it down by 2mm which has helped but really need the proper adapters.

Need a spur as the standard one stripped in about 2 minutes. Waiting for a shell to be sprayed too. And some springs, I tried standard and core rc and found standard front hard and med rear the best.

DrPaul
16-05-2013, 10:51 AM
James, the RW spur is bullet proof.

welshmerlin
16-05-2013, 01:32 PM
James, the RW spur is bullet proof.

Agreed unless you get sand in it :mad:

zaquiz
17-05-2013, 08:33 PM
I've got the schuey front hubs but the outer ballstud arm is so high the amount of bumpsteer it gives is crazy, probably getting on for 15-200degrees at full travel, I've dremelled it down by 2mm which has helped but really need the proper adapters.

Need a spur as the standard one stripped in about 2 minutes. Waiting for a shell to be sprayed too. And some springs, I tried standard and core rc and found standard front hard and med rear the best.

James! Nice to see you with a Team C!

I just tried my TM2 for the first time last week. I finally have a astro-turf track near my house... so I will be doing a lot of testing.

Why are you guys putting shumacher front hubs on?

PaulUpton
17-05-2013, 09:09 PM
Im using b4 hubs with cougar axles (practically same as cougar hubs) it narrows the front track width to allow to fit in the BRCA scrutineering box

also the kit setup dosent give as much lock as the b4/cougar hubs

paul

Adam F
17-05-2013, 09:40 PM
You can use the TM2 hubs with RB5 WC axles which gets it in the box but you need to put a slight chamfer on the wheel hex to stop it binding up..

GLYN WARD
17-05-2013, 10:48 PM
shock towers. called in smd today me and john got all the parts out and checked them yes there is a diff between carbon and kit not as much as I 1st thought about 1.5mm higher for shock mount holes.

GLYN WARD
17-05-2013, 10:54 PM
schumacher in line hubs on ant potters car so we can use b4 wheels "note in line" alloy ones.

ben44
18-05-2013, 02:16 PM
A putt a bearing of 3Mm and cutt a little of plastique and no problem for the box and i can use the TeamC weels.

zaquiz
19-05-2013, 03:24 PM
Im using b4 hubs with cougar axles (practically same as cougar hubs) it narrows the front track width to allow to fit in the BRCA scrutineering box

also the kit setup dosent give as much lock as the b4/cougar hubs

paul

But is the BRCA box different from EFRA box/rules?

With my T2, 4mm hex and three shims inside the hub, never had problems with width in any box.

john333
19-05-2013, 04:02 PM
The wheels themselves fit inside the box as standard, it's when we use tyres such as low profile cut staggers that a problem occurs, because the edge of the tyre overhangs the wheel by quite a bit.

zaquiz
19-05-2013, 09:32 PM
The wheels themselves fit inside the box as standard, it's when we use tyres such as low profile cut staggers that a problem occurs, because the edge of the tyre overhangs the wheel by quite a bit.

I understand. Only low profile? Standard cut staggers fit?

john333
19-05-2013, 10:11 PM
Yes the higher profile ones fit fine, but we don't tend to use them very often

GLYN WARD
20-05-2013, 06:39 PM
But is the BRCA box different from EFRA box/rules?

With my T2, 4mm hex and three shims inside the hub, never had problems with width in any box.

no diff in boxes paul worsley makes all inspection equipment for ifmar, and efra, and made the brca box. the boxes are a small amount over size all the same amount if your car does not fit hard cheese.

James
20-05-2013, 07:35 PM
Will the shuey hubs and team c caster blocks fit in the box with low profile staggers?

GLYN WARD
20-05-2013, 07:50 PM
ants went in easy at grantham I think it will go in with any tyre on there was that much clearance.

James
20-05-2013, 07:52 PM
Yeah I've measure it on a printed setup board and seems ok on that, never know when its in the vertical plane in a box, should be ok I think, seems to be 1.5-2mm free I'm estimating.

GLYN WARD
03-06-2013, 10:31 PM
I am thinking of having some rear shock towers made these will have wing and shock holes 1.5mm lower than moulded ones this will stop drive shafts from catching on out drives and give more droop would anyone be interested.

porschesse
05-06-2013, 10:55 PM
Yes Glyn I would def buy a couple !

GLYN WARD
07-06-2013, 10:29 PM
carbon shock towers on order should be here mid week 19 each.

porschesse
08-06-2013, 06:42 PM
Glyn if you are coming to Broxtowe national will you bring them with you and I will buy one off ya cheers Rich Yeo

Dave Dodd
08-06-2013, 08:37 PM
I was on the understanding that using 4wd front wheels with low pro cut staggers was the way to go, its what i've been using since broxtowe regional this year.

would drilling an inner hole out on the rear wishbone on the tc02c (x2c) work similar to the tm2 ?

:)

shark
08-06-2013, 09:22 PM
Think so Dave,worked on the Vegas so should work . More droop.

GLYN WARD
10-06-2013, 11:30 AM
Glyn if you are coming to Broxtowe national will you bring them with you and I will buy one off ya cheers Rich Yeo
yes will be there rich

GLYN WARD
11-06-2013, 11:13 PM
shock towers arrived today fitted one to ants car great drive shafts ok now and more droop

GLYN WARD
13-06-2013, 01:54 PM
if you drill another inner hole on rear wishbone and use a team c carbon shock tower there is no need to put spacers in shocks to stop drives hafts coming out, as carbon tower as holes about 1.5mm higher than kit one.
john jones is now running his car this way

the tower I have had made gives you the droop same as drilling hole but lowers shock mount and wing mount so lowering centre gravity at rear. plus stops drive shaft catching on inner cup