Speedo settings explanation- Boost, turbo etc

[dbizzle5]

Can anyone explain in thicko language what all these settings are?

Ta

[Chequered Flag Racing]

'SlowOne' on o0ple is a good bet. Maybe online later.

[beale]

Boost timing is additional timing added to fixed timing to improve acceleration rate, turbo is additional timing added when full throttle is applied usually with a short delay period to reach max rpm quicker. I will stand corrected but that is how it seems to work. I think it does not make a motor turn faster only accelerate quicker again will stand corrected

[SlowOne]

You need to be as thick as me to understand this...

Operation mode - if that's not obvious, take up tiddly winks!
Initial brake - how much brake is applied as soon as you pull the stick back. Think of like yanking on the handbrake on your car. The higher the percentage, the harder you've pulled the handbrake.
Brake strength - how much brake is ultimately applied. At 50% you get half the braking force of 100%. Useful if you want to stop wheels locking up on slippery surfaces. Otherwise, use your finger/thumb to set the amount of brake by pulling the stick less.
Voltage cut-off - see the first comment! My advice is 3.0v per cell.
Punch profile - the opposite of Initial Brake - how much throttle you get when you lift the stick/pull the trigger. Higher numbers, more initial throttle and faster ramp-up of the speed. Lower numbers for Mod, higher numbers for Stock.
Neutral deadband - don't worry what it is, just know that Futaba and Sanwa radios work fine on 5%, everything else 8%.
Right, here's the difficult bit - boost and turbo.
Boost - this is the amount of timing that is added to the motor as it revs up. You choose an amount you want and then tell it how you want it to come in. An example...
I want a total of 30 deg boost to start coming in at 2000rpm (Boost timing rpm) and add it at the rate of one degree every 100 revs (Boost timing ACC - 100rpm/deg)
Turbo - this is what is added to the motor once it is flat out. Select an amount (Turbo timing) the delay before it comes in (Turbo delay) and how fast it comes in (Turbo slope)
Drive and brake frequency - leave them alone. Too complicated for most of us!

This is a personal view that has served me well...

If you are running Modified motors leave it all alone. Set the boost timing and turbo timing to zero. If the car isn't fast enough, put in a faster motor. This is essential in Off Road as getting over jumps is about instant power, and boost is power that grows with revs. That means if you arrive at too slow a speed then the car doesn't accelerate enough to clear the jump. If you can make a TC National A Final in Mod then you will already be using boost!

If you are running a stock motor then ignore the turbo and focus on the boost. This is very controllable, whereas the turbo can chime in when you don't want it. No BL motor will take more than 60 degrees of timing. Set the mechanical timing on the motor to zero on its scale. Now add in 40 degrees of 'boost timing' at a 'boost timing ACC' of 150rpm/deg with a start rpm of (boost timing rpm) of 5000revs (for a 2S car, halve the number for a 1S car).

This will mean the car comes out of a corner, get to 5000 rpm and then has timing added at the rate of 1 degree every 150 rpm until it reaches 11000 rpm when all 40 degrees have been added. The motor continues to accelerate until it is flat out.

Gearing must be a lot lower if you use a lot of boost. The more 'boost timing' you add, the lower the gearing. The faster you put the timing in (boost timing ACC) the faster it will accelerate but you can go too far and then the motor will get very hot! The lower the revs you set for the 'boost timing rpm' the earlier it will start to accelerate. This is the setting that can cause the most damage to the motor.

Ideally you want to add about 50 degrees from about 6000 rpm up to about 25000 rpm for a typical buggy or TC. I hope that helps, but if not I will take questions!

[SLEENAD]

What speedo is this chart for? Looks alot like the hobbywing stuff.

[dbizzle5]

Turnigy Trackstar 120a turbo. £25!!! Tried it tonight in my DEX410 with a 5.5 and its awsome! Best £25 ive spent! Really smooth.

[dbizzle5]

awsome! cheers buddy!


You need to be as thick as me to understand this...

Operation mode - if that's not obvious, take up tiddly winks!
Initial brake - how much brake is applied as soon as you pull the stick back. Think of like yanking on the handbrake on your car. The higher the percentage, the harder you've pulled the handbrake.
Brake strength - how much brake is ultimately applied. At 50% you get half the braking force of 100%. Useful if you want to stop wheels locking up on slippery surfaces. Otherwise, use your finger/thumb to set the amount of brake by pulling the stick less.
Voltage cut-off - see the first comment! My advice is 3.0v per cell.
Punch profile - the opposite of Initial Brake - how much throttle you get when you lift the stick/pull the trigger. Higher numbers, more initial throttle and faster ramp-up of the speed. Lower numbers for Mod, higher numbers for Stock.
Neutral deadband - don't worry what it is, just know that Futaba and Sanwa radios work fine on 5%, everything else 8%.
Right, here's the difficult bit - boost and turbo.
Boost - this is the amount of timing that is added to the motor as it revs up. You choose an amount you want and then tell it how you want it to come in. An example...
I want a total of 30 deg boost to start coming in at 2000rpm (Boost timing rpm) and add it at the rate of one degree every 100 revs (Boost timing ACC - 100rpm/deg)
Turbo - this is what is added to the motor once it is flat out. Select an amount (Turbo timing) the delay before it comes in (Turbo delay) and how fast it comes in (Turbo slope)
Drive and brake frequency - leave them alone. Too complicated for most of us!

This is a personal view that has served me well...

If you are running Modified motors leave it all alone. Set the boost timing and turbo timing to zero. If the car isn't fast enough, put in a faster motor. This is essential in Off Road as getting over jumps is about instant power, and boost is power that grows with revs. That means if you arrive at too slow a speed then the car doesn't accelerate enough to clear the jump. If you can make a TC National A Final in Mod then you will already be using boost!

If you are running a stock motor then ignore the turbo and focus on the boost. This is very controllable, whereas the turbo can chime in when you don't want it. No BL motor will take more than 60 degrees of timing. Set the mechanical timing on the motor to zero on its scale. Now add in 40 degrees of 'boost timing' at a 'boost timing ACC' of 150rpm/deg with a start rpm of (boost timing rpm) of 5000revs (for a 2S car, halve the number for a 1S car).

This will mean the car comes out of a corner, get to 5000 rpm and then has timing added at the rate of 1 degree every 150 rpm until it reaches 11000 rpm when all 40 degrees have been added. The motor continues to accelerate until it is flat out.

Gearing must be a lot lower if you use a lot of boost. The more 'boost timing' you add, the lower the gearing. The faster you put the timing in (boost timing ACC) the faster it will accelerate but you can go too far and then the motor will get very hot! The lower the revs you set for the 'boost timing rpm' the earlier it will start to accelerate. This is the setting that can cause the most damage to the motor.

Ideally you want to add about 50 degrees from about 6000 rpm up to about 25000 rpm for a typical buggy or TC. I hope that helps, but if not I will take questions!