Questions..new to carpet (usa track)

[j.d.roost]

Hello...Not to many permanent indoor carpet tracks here in the us.
I am fortunate enough to have one 5 minutes from my house. :)

Looking for some car advice.
I currently am running a rear motor b4.2.
After seeing just how much better the mid motor Losi was on our high grip carpet (got to burn a pack with a buds car)..I was instantly sold on mid motor.Started looking into the conversions for my car and the only viable option in the states is the new x-factory cube coming in a few weeks.
This will add up to close to a $600.00 2wd buggy by the time I get it sorted...and it will have some one off parts that I can't buy "everywhere".

To try and shorten my long winded post...
I decided a factory kit mid motor car is the way to go. I am looking at either the rb6 or a dex210. From what I can see the dex looks to be a winning platform on carpet/astro. (Just going on posted race results on pages like euro offroad series ect.). What I don't know is what needs to get dumped into the car parts wise to have a successful carpet car. Are there parts that are hard to get and/or expensive (see most of the guys are running a +8mm aluminum chassis...but it's $150.00 dollars here :cry:) I also have read that parts are sometimes hard to get. I also don't want to buy into a car if it's getting a bit long in the tooth.

Other option is the rb6..I would assume because the car is newer I don't see the same results for this chassis yet? Again...it's a pricey kit but if it's dialed with no needed upgrades it will equal out.

Sorry my 1st post is sort of a "is this better than that" deal...There is just not alot of carpet offroad information over here.

This is my track..Only video I could find was the 4x4 guys (sorry).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQpgf9ddIWg

[rcjunky]

You definitly don't need the longer chassis to be fast with the 210. From what I've seen locally (astro turf in Canada) the rb6 is no better, definitly not $150+ better. The x6^3 will be a very nice car and depending how you are currently set up don't count that out. The only 'one off' parts you might ever break is the rear arms and shock tower, both of are extremely strong (made and moulded in the USA, you'll notice the plastic quality, I'd say its better then xray even) I'd go x6^3 over rb6. The dex210 (which I currently and will continue to run) is a great car with lots of adjustability which is really nice. Out of the box, the only upgrades I had for a while is the RF pivot block and the steering rack, both which I sell (no more racks though) so I put them on because I could, the rack is all you really need. I now have carbon towers front and rear and alloy shock caps on the way because I can. You can still run RM with your B4, it just may take some time to get a good set up. A couple locals still run RM (with the 22 and rb6) so it can be made fast, set up may seem a little crazy from what you're used to though. t the end of the day, all the new 2wd set ups can be made fast, all comes down to set up

[j.d.roost]

Cool..good advice.
The main issue believe it or not is the little double after that huge table top jump. Only way across it with any sort flowing speed is to get ride height above 24mm. Anything lower causes the car to flip rear 1st over it. We literally spent two hours with different oils/springs and battery position ect with no real improvement. Jacking the car helps...but causes traction roll issues... The weight of the motor in the back just causes issues when a non buggy layout is combined with insane traction....but I digress...I am getting off topic a bit. I notice most setups for rug/astro have a ride height below 20mm...Understandably so.
Ugh...maybe I will just wait for the Xfactory car. Thanks for the info on the plastic. Glad to hear we still manufacture something good over here for a change.;)

[Danny Harrison]

Cool..good advice.
The main issue believe it or not is the little double after that huge table top jump. Only way across it with any sort flowing speed is to get ride height above 24mm. Anything lower causes the car to flip rear 1st over it. We literally spent two hours with different oils/springs and battery position ect with no real improvement. Jacking the car helps...but causes traction roll issues... The weight of the motor in the back just causes issues when a non buggy layout is combined with insane traction....but I digress...I am getting off topic a bit. I notice most setups for rug/astro have a ride height below 20mm...Understandably so.
Ugh...maybe I will just wait for the Xfactory car. Thanks for the info on the plastic. Glad to hear we still manufacture something good over here for a change.;)

Is the Yokomo bmax 2 available where you are? Thats mid or rear motor and will be fast straight from the box with no extra money spent :)

Would be my first choice if I was buying a 2wd over here. Every one I see looks great.

[rcjunky]

Cool..good advice.
The main issue believe it or not is the little double after that huge table top jump. Only way across it with any sort flowing speed is to get ride height above 24mm. Anything lower causes the car to flip rear 1st over it. We literally spent two hours with different oils/springs and battery position ect with no real improvement. Jacking the car helps...but causes traction roll issues... The weight of the motor in the back just causes issues when a non buggy layout is combined with insane traction....but I digress...I am getting off topic a bit. I notice most setups for rug/astro have a ride height below 20mm...Understandably so.
Ugh...maybe I will just wait for the Xfactory car. Thanks for the info on the plastic. Glad to hear we still manufacture something good over here for a change.;)

I don't think I've ever seen an xfactory arms fully break, I've seen them crack on rare occaision, and some can break the rear tower, but it you do, you deserve a metal, 4mm of pure carbon goodness, very hard to break. You'll complain about the AE parts way before the xfactory parts.

You definitly want the ride height around 20mm (I think I'm at 18-19ish now) The higher it is the better it jumps, the more traction roll you may get. Whats your droop like? more droop will help, then add weight under the battery, that will also help.

[AfroP]

I'd hang on for a little while. Its a safe bet a new 210 is on the way as the price has been dropped at several places here in the uk which generally heralds the release of a new car.
Couple the price drop with the age of the car and the worlds coming up and it stacks the new kit odds inyour favour

[j.d.roost]

Is the Yokomo bmax 2 available where you are? Thats mid or rear motor and will be fast straight from the box with no extra money spent :)

Would be my first choice if I was buying a 2wd over here. Every one I see looks great.

Was looking at the Yok..as the car is relatively inexpensive. Our local big mail order chain (a-main hobby) has kits in stock. Problem is parts support.... Most of the stuff is on or gets back ordered and overseas parts support would be needed from time to time.

I actually got a killer deal on a used 210 lastnight that I could not pass on...with enough spare parts to break the car every lap.The total of the used car and my new b4.2 is still cheaper than a new rb6/spares would cost me :woot:. This should at least let me get adjusted to mid motor while I decide on a new kit/conversion. Who knows...maybe the older dex will be good enough for my needs.
Thanks for the help guys...I will be looking here for setup advice for the dex210.

[Fabs]

DEX 210 on that track should be pretty darn good...

What tyres do you guys use?

[j.d.roost]

Current rear tire of choice is dboots terabyte.
I tried shumi pins...but they wore out after three runs.
The dbootos only last two weekends here...It's low pile office carpet and it really eats up tires. Having a had time finding a front tire that does not push or grab and hook.... Any suggestions'?

[Danny Harrison]

Current rear tire of choice is dboots terabyte.
I tried shumi pins...but they wore out after three runs.
The dbootos only last two weekends here...It's low pile office carpet and it really eats up tires. Having a had time finding a front tire that does not push or grab and hook.... Any suggestions'?

these should work well

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Product_Category/Wheels_Tyres_and_Inserts/U6592.html

If you need a little more grip then the cut stagger should do the job

The tyres wear is the harsh reality of carpet racing though. Foams are really good if your allowed to use them.

[rcjunky]

I would never mix and match schumacher and dboot tires. Definitly go with either blockpasses or terrabyte 2wd fronts. I'm always a big fan of pin fronts, but the blockpasses can be more forgiving. Unfortunatly tires only last a couple nights. I run hard multibytes of turf and get 2 good night then it gets worse by the race, so I swap them out generally every month.

[j.d.roost]

I ordered a set of shumi and blockpasses. Bit worried about the pin on pin action on our surface...at least until I get adjusted to the car.

Are you guys going through the grim process of reusing your rims/inserts?
Was never a fan of ungluing tires off of rims...
I am a touring car guy...and have had the pleasure of being able to buy premount rubber for $20.00 a set every weekend. Need to get adjusted to the tire bill I guess.Guess I am sort of relived to see that the wear issue is considered "normal"...thought I was doing something wrong..lol

How about inserts? The dboot rears have ribs inside of them that don't match up with the proline/jconceps inserts. They get caught in the ridges of the insert and make the tire sort of deform.. Been using Duratrax c.cell or trinity dual stage foam inserts in the rear. Not sure what to get for the front..
I see that some don't use inserts on the front tires...is this a viable option?

Lastly..I see a lot of pictures where you see the inside plastic of the rim on the front tires (euro.nats pics...ect). It almost looks like the tire is glued to the inside or middle rib of the front rim...Can somebody explain what's going on there.

Just want to thank you all again for the help over the past few days.

[Danny Harrison]

I ordered a set of shumi and blockpasses. Bit worried about the pin on pin action on our surface...at least until I get adjusted to the car.

Are you guys going through the grim process of reusing your rims/inserts?
Was never a fan of ungluing tires off of rims...
I am a touring car guy...and have had the pleasure of being able to buy premount rubber for $20.00 a set every weekend. Need to get adjusted to the tire bill I guess.Guess I am sort of relived to see that the wear issue is considered "normal"...thought I was doing something wrong..lol

How about inserts? The dboot rears have ribs inside of them that don't match up with the proline/jconceps inserts. They get caught in the ridges of the insert and make the tire sort of deform.. Been using Duratrax c.cell or trinity dual stage foam inserts in the rear. Not sure what to get for the front..
I see that some don't use inserts on the front tires...is this a viable option?

Lastly..I see a lot of pictures where you see the inside plastic of the rim on the front tires (euro.nats pics...ect). It almost looks like the tire is glued to the inside or middle rib of the front rim...Can somebody explain what's going on there.

Just want to thank you all again for the help over the past few days.

On the odd looking gluing on front rim. I think this is when the slim schumacher tyres are used on normal 2wd front wheels. The slim fronts I linked don't generally require inserts, but the mini pin fronts work better with inserts in, in my opinion.

Over here the general consensus is that schumacher blue tubby inserts work best on the rear. Personally I have started using AKA closed cell inserts as I like the feel the tyres give. They tend to be truer too once glued up and give less sideways flex in high grip situations. The Schumacher blue foams are a bit more forgiving generally but can also feel more squirmy.