Setups

[jimmy]

This is a sticky thread for posting setups only please! :)

[mattym0310]

Batley Outdoor

Springs: 6t
Pistons: Hard + Valve
Oil: 35 Associated
Toe: In 1 Degree
Camber: 2 Degrees
Castor: 0 washer behind wishbone
Ground clearance: 16mm
Anti Roll Bar: None


Rear:

Springs: 5.5t/Gold
Pistons: Two hole, no groove
Oil weights: 50wt Associated
Toe-in per side: 3 Degrees
Camber per side: 2 Degrees
Ground clearance: 22mm - or a little more if it cuts up.
Anti-roll bar: None
Rear lower upright: Upper Hole
Damper pickup point: Middle

[mattym0310]

Worksop Indoor

Front

6 turn springs
Kit pistons & rebound valves
30 wt oil
Push rods mounted on top of rockers
0 degree toe in - may need 1 deg toe-out
-1 degree camber
Castor - right back
14mm ride height - or lower at Worksop depending on bumps, but ride height has a big influance on steering on the Pred as you probably know.


Rear

5 1/2 turn springs & pre springs
Kit pistons
45 wt oil
Middle hole rockers
4 degrees toe-in per side
-1 degree camber
22mm ride height - or lower at Worksop, but drop front and rear the same.

[mattym0310]

Southport Outdoors

Front

5.5 turn springs
Kit pistons & rebound valves
30 wt Losi oil
Kit rockers (push rods mounted on top)
1 degree toe in
-2 degree camber
Castor – 4 washers in front, 3 behind
Front pushrod length - 30mm


16mm ride height


Rear

5 1/2 turn springs & pre springs
Kit pistons
50 wt losi oil
Middle hole rockers
2 degrees toe-in per side
-2 degree camber
22mm ride height
Maximum Droop
Kit Anti Squat

[Courtesy of Peter Ellis]

[mattym0310]

Coventry Outdoors

FRONT:

Caster: 5 washers back, 1 forward
Push rod placement: mounted on top of the rocker.
Roll-bar: none
toe in: 1degree
ride height: 18mm
camber: 2degrees
Springs: 5.5t black
Oil: Associated 35wt
pistons: kit
1 way unit in the front, fixed prop shaft.

REAR:

Roll bar: yes- soft setting.
Toe in: 2degrees
ride height: 23mm
camber: 2degrees
Anti Squat: 3.5 degrees
Shock pick up position: middle hole
hub pick up position: upper hole
springs: 6.5t black
Oil: associated 30wt.
Pistons: 2 hole - kit

[courtesy of Tom Yardy]

[Mrs.TeamXtreme]

Front

6 turn springs
Kit pistons & rebound valves
35 wt associated oil
Kit rockers (push rods mounted on top)
1 degree toe in
-1 degree camber
Castor – 4 washers in front, 3 behind
Front pushrod length - 30mm
16mm ride height

tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Rear

5.5 turn springs & pre compression springs
Kit pistons
50 wt Schumacher oil
Middle hole rockers
1 degrees toe-in per side
-1 degree camber
22mm ride height
Kit Anti Squat
3mm droop

Tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Nosram evo 2007 with 6.5
Spur 72t
Pinion 19t
IB 4200 cells

[Southwell]

Might be useful having the type of track, track conditions etc on each setup otherwise people wont know what type of track the setup is for.

[Lowie]

dito

[Tom3012]

Front

6 turn springs
Kit pistons & rebound valves
35 wt associated oil
Kit rockers (push rods mounted on top)
1 degree toe in
-1 degree camber
Castor – 4 washers in front, 3 behind
Front pushrod length - 30mm
16mm ride height

tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Rear

5.5 turn springs & pre compression springs
Kit pistons
50 wt Schumacher oil
Middle hole rockers
1 degrees toe-in per side
-1 degree camber
22mm ride height
Kit Anti Squat
3mm droop

Tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Nosram evo 2007 with 6.5
Spur 72t
Pinion 19t
IB 4200 cells


hi guys...

that my set-up for southport...

southport is a mixture of surfaces, mainly astro and grass with a couple of othe sections made up of cobbles, tarmac and concrete..

this set-up was used on a dry and sunny day, with plenty of grip on the track, however it does also work well in damp conditions as it makes the car a little less likely to suffer from grip role etc....

hope this helps

Tom

[niggs98]

here is a starting point for the new shocks on the x11 working both on flat grass and epr as well

front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 25wt losi
piston kit with standard rebound valve
pushrod above rocker
pushrod lenth 33mm with shockball undone 1turn
revised front arms with 1 washer behind wishbone
cone washer replaced with 4 losi gold ballstud washers. 2 under outer ball with 2 above
extra midde hole drilled for roll bar
roll bar 1.2mm (standard) middle hole
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
slight toe out with 2 degrees of camber

rear

springs blue (no compresion spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 30-32.5 losi(depending on jumps)
piston kit
lower hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm again in middle hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase lenthened 1mm
ride height 22mm
1.5mm rear block (reduces on power steering)
large rear wing with full guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear uprite in upper hole

shumacher yellow minispikes with outside outer row cutoff rear and 2 inner and outer cut off front

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

Nathan

[Lowie]

thx

what is "epr"?
and what can the Blue spring be compared at, in terms of the old springs?

[niggs98]

epr is eden park raceway (high bite astroturf and multi surface track) the springs now come colour coded so i will find out the turn equvalent when i get home but they are 1 down from stiffest
hth

[jeff jenkins]

lower hole on rear hub or shock mount rocker?

[Northy]

I *think* the blue spring would be the 5 1/2 turn 1.3mm spring :)

G

[Northy]

lower hole on rear hub or shock mount rocker?

He means on the rear rocker :)

Just noticed he forgot to mention the rear upright hole :lol:

G

[niggs98]

setup eddited for the above questions :thumbsup:

[ads0021]

Where did you adjust the wheel base?

[ads0021]

Oh and is that how you ran it on Sunday at the regional?

[niggs98]

i add washers inbetween the front of the rear hub and the ball joint adam and i tried it in the last final at the regional just to give a little more pivot. tested it again at epr yesterday in the dry and found it to be good with the full set up shown

[ads0021]

Hi its Adam. I've realized that by doing that you are reducing the hub anti-squat too. I've worked out that by adding 2MM it will make the hub and the wishbone parallel. While also making the wheelbase 2MM longer. I wish i had thought about on Sunday as i think that would have improved my car on the dusty section going onto the straight. You car seemed really stable there and i think this could explain it, do you agree? Will definitely try it next time we're at a track. I think i will also find a way of adjusting the top wishbone as we talked about so that i can change the anti-squat and the wheelbase independently.

[niggs98]

hadnt looked at it that way so will look into it and get back to you :thumbsup:

[ads0021]

So would you say that this shim gave you more pivot through the corner? Did you notice any difference in putting the power down on the loose parts of the track?

[niggs98]

the shim acted in the same way as lentheniong any buggy would ie more pivot but slightly less rear end coming out of a corner. as it was helping me to square up quicker the slight less on rear end traction wasnt an issue

[Tom3012]

Hi guys... my setup for the new big bore shocks as i ran it yesterday at the Southport GP


Blue front springs
Kit pistons & rebound valves
25 wt associated oil, 3 large spacers on the shocks
Kit rockers (push rods mounted on top)
1 degree toe in
-1 degree camber
Castor – 4 washers in front, 3 behind
Front pushrod length - 30mm

tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Rear

5.5 turn springs & no pre compression springs, 3 large spacers on the shocks
Kit pistons
35 wt associated oil
Middle hole rockers
1 degrees toe-in per side
-1 degree camber

Kit Anti Squat
3mm droop

Tyres: worn yellow mini spikes

Nosram evo 2007 with 6.5
Spur 72t
Pinion 19t
IB 4200 cells

very similar to my previous set up except for the new shocks oils and springs...

Tom

[Alfonzo]

What's your view on the new shocks?

[Northy]

Tom, how do you like your car to 'feel'?
Looking at your set-up it looks like a steering monster :woot:
Why no pre-compression spring on the rear? :confused:

I'm hoping to come over to Southport on Sunday, we'll have a chat :thumbsup:

[footey]

james on sunday was using losi or ae springs g

[turbo_brick]

james on sunday was using losi or ae springs g

From what I can remember James Chappells set-up from York Regional is as follows:

Front
New Shocks
Kit pistons
30wt oil
5.5t springs
Castor all the way back (Original Upper wishbones)
1 degree toe in
1 degree camber
wishbones level for ride height

Rear
New shocks
Kit piston
40wt oil
Green associated front spring
2 degree toe in
1 degree camber
1 degree anti squat plate
wishbones level for ride height

Schumacher Yellow Minispike tyres, Outer and inner row removed from fronts

If there is any changes to this I'll edit it later.

Peter

[mattym0310]

was a green losi spring peter

[Tom3012]

Tom, how do you like your car to 'feel'?
Looking at your set-up it looks like a steering monster :woot:
Why no pre-compression spring on the rear? :confused:

I'm hoping to come over to Southport on Sunday, we'll have a chat :thumbsup:


hi northy... i like my car to have a touch of understeer, as it is if i use new tires if very hard not to grip role because it does steer like a monster :p...

but thats why i use worn tires, and it goes great! if you do come to southport on sunday your more than welcome to have a go with it and see what you think.

as for not using the precompression springs on the back, i just copied nathans shock set up for the big bores as closely as i could and left the rest of the car how it was

hopefully see you on sunday

Tom

[Northy]

I thought it would be a steering monster on new tyres! :woot:

I must admit I used worn tyres at Southport National last year and the car was dialed :thumbsup: Dan X-God Greenwood remembers just how worn they were to this day! :woot:

G

[Tom3012]

Mine is getting to the point now that the spikes are virtually gone and the actual tire is getting a bit thin, might be due a new set in three or four weeks :thumbsup:

[Northy]

:o Mine weren't THAT worn :) You make Stu Evans look like he spends loads on tyres! :woot:

G

[Lee]

What i want to know is, why does a car that has the CofG of a pancake want to grip roll?

[Tom3012]

it generates a hell of a lot of grip? i dont know :lol:

[PaulRotheram]

I was quite impressed by toms car on sunday, I think you scored quite highly in round one? A big improovment on what I last saw!

[Tom3012]

3rd overall in round 1 Paul :thumbsup:

I was just inconsistent in the other rounds:lol:

[Lowie]

That setup for Southport GP from Tom3012...
and the setup for York Regional from James

Could anyone update me on what type of track these are and what the weatherconditions were when used with that setup?
thx

[Tom3012]

No problem lowie... was dry and sunny with lots of grip. Track is a range of AstroTurf and grass with Tarmac, concrete and cobbled features.

Hope this helps, Tom

[mattym0310]

The York setup was used when it was sunny with high grip. It was a flat grass track with some big features [jumps].

HTH matt :)

[mattym0310]

Here is my final setup from York Regional:

front

springs white (no compreision spring)
oil 25wt losi
piston kit with standard rebound valve
pushrod above rocker
pushrod lenth 33mm
revised front arms - washers in front of wishbone
no roll bar
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
slight toe in with 1degree of -camber

rear

springs losi blue front
oil 35 AE
piston kit
middle hole on rocker
no roll bar
large rear wing with half guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear upright in upper hole
ride height 21-22mm
Standard anti-squat

I was using worn schumacher yellow minispikes with the outer row cutoff rear and 1 and a half cut off outer front and 1 row cut off the inner front.

Novak 5.5R brushless motor [72 spur, 14/15t pinion]
Nosram Matrix Evo ESC
Associated XP DS1015 servo
EP4200

The track was very high grip on flat grass with some big features.

[Alfonzo]

It looks like you guys are running a lot thinner oil with the new shocks than used to be the case with the old style shocks? (and different rate springs, softer?) Am I right? :confused:

[niggs98]

having just re read ya post. im softer on oil due to the larger shocks generating a lot more pac so the car feels and is a lot more supple to drive but still lands off the larer jumps better than previously. as for springs i havent run a pred in years and have just stepped into the x11 with lewis and adam h for help with setting the car up. front wise im abouty the same as before and have personally taken out the compresion spring so that i can go softer on the rear spring hence being a rate down on what previous setups have shown

hth

Nathan

[Alfonzo]

Cheers Nathan. I'm going to try some experimenting this weekend with the ol' X10.

[Northy]

Also the rear pistons in the 'new' shocks only have 1 hole, so thinner oil is used to get the same damping :)

G

[niggs98]

southport national setup 08



front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 22.5wt losi
piston kit with standard rebound valve
pushrod above rocker
pushrod lenth 33mm with shockball undone 1turn
revised front arms with 1 washer behind wishbone
cone washer replaced with 4 losi gold ballstud washers. 3 under outer ball with 1 above
extra midde hole drilled for roll bar
roll bar 1.2mm (standard) middle hole
ride height 18 mm (driveshafts just below level)
front wing kit with standard lines followed with shock cartridge white washer under rear mount
slight toe out with 2 degrees of camber

rear

springs blue (no compresion spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 27.5 losi
piston kit
lower hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm in stiff hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase lenthened 1mm
ride height 22mm drive shafts just above level)
1.5mm rear block (reduces on power steering)
large rear wing with no guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
2 degrees of camber
rear uprite in upper hole

shumacher yellow minispikes with outside and inside row cut off rear and 2 inner and outer cut off front

5.5 nosram 14mm sintered rotor
19/72
nosram istc
speedo settings 2/1/1/1.

notes
6.5 geared on a 19/20 tooth much easier to drive
poss cut extra 1/2 a row off the outer front to get less snatch when grip was very high

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

[Lowie]

...roll bar 1.2mm again in middle hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
...
yes please (big eyes)
...
1.5mm rear block (reduces on power steering)
...

euh, some more info on this? You lost me? Rear block? Or is this a feature that only exists on the X11 (I have an X10)

thx!!

[ads0021]

It is a inner rear hinge pin block that has been machined down. They are only on the X11 though.

[niggs98]

one of the advantages of the x11 over the x10 is that is has proper alloy hingepin holders. this obviously adds to the strenth as it now uses 3mm hingepins as well and means that we can adjust things like antisquat very easily on the car. admittedly the antisquat blocks are still in the prototype stages but as far as i know there will be a set of blocks released for the car once testing is completed.

hope that helps

Nathan

[Lowie]

Well, i'm thinking about competing with my Pred (X10 with BB shocks) in a local competition. It will be indoors, carpet, but with some nice jumps and other obstacles.
I actually have a little movie about this race last year: (http://%28Youtube%29%20GB%20in%20Brussels%202007%20--%20Of-road-heats)(Youtube) GB in Brussels 2007 -- Of-road-heats (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SVs8ouYR1w)
I will certainly be a similar track. And a big chance there will be a minimum chassi-height-rule of 15mm.

I only found the setup for Worksop Indoor from Mattym0310 and am wondering if this Worksop-track is one with jumps .. or in other words.. (question 1) will this setup be ok for me, as a good starting setup?

also (2.) what about the BB-shocks on my X10? Any ideas on setup of these.

I'm not looking for a ready-to-use setup, but more for a ready-to-start-with setup, maybe with some hints on what to expect and how to try to adapt the setup.

thx!!

[niggs98]

leave everything else as you would normally run it on astroturf, as for the shocks

front 25wt losi oil
piston standard
spring blue
with rebound valve
roll bar in the stiff position

rear 30wt losi oil
piston standard
spring white
no rebound valve.
roll bar in the stiff position

this is a good safe starting point although the team are working on this at the moment to improve it more. i will post a setup after this weekends worksop meeting

[Lowie]

I always forget what these springs have to be compared with. blue equals 5.5, wasn't it? And white = 6?

[niggs98]

blues are 5 1/2 turn, whites are the stiffest

[KevLee]

This is my setup at the moment and one that i have changed very little over the last few weeks... its been a great setup at Eden Park, Stotfold, Kidderminster, wet or dry.

The only mods i have done are to stand the servo up and finding some slightly longer shafts on the rear shocks (this can be achieved by undoing the joint slightly but with the risk of it stripping off). I've also dremelled a little away from the rear of the front upper wishbones to let the suspension droop more and taken a little bit off the rear hubs that catch the wishbones. Getting more droop front and rear has made a huge difference.


Rear

Red spring with compensator spring
middle hole on wishbone (thats with the longer shaft, may need lower hole)
Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
25-30wt oil depending on temp
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney- see picture
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
ride height - 21mm (which is wishbone just below level)
max droop (measure with shuey mini spikes) - 45mm
Front


Spring - Yellow
Additional 57 hole in piston
Oil 30-35wt
ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of yoke
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height 19mm
max droop (measure with shuey mini spikes) - 40mm
Roll bar in short link (front hole in wishbone)
camber 1 deg
Slight toe out
Extras

Motor Tekin Redline 5.5 geared on 18/72
One-way shaft
Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps - see picture
Cone washers used on front hub ball joints to prevent them popping out of position

[Lowie]

any chance on some pictures of the mods you made, Kevin?

[KevLee]

any chance on some pictures of the mods you made, Kevin?

I've atached a picture of the chamfered front top arm that lets the suspension drop a little more. On the rear hub i've just realised that i only removed a little bit of material when i was running the hub low, there is no need to do anything to it in the high position.

The pictures above show the wing mounted forward, to be honest i'm not sure if others do this already but i found i had much more steering and it jumps better like this too.

I think thats about it... Let me know if there is anything in particular you wanted to see.

[timmy121]

anybody a set up for carpet indoor for a 08
cheer

[mattym0310]

done

[AndyM]

hiya mate,
i'm using Kev's set up at the moment.. posted just above ( clicky ) (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=173135&postcount=54)

hope this helps,

[mattym0310]

NERCR - Slippy floor and carpet, one large jump plus some rippled mats

Front


Blue Spring
Additional 57 hole in piston
Oil 35wt
ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of rocker
top wishbone fully back except for two small washers
ride height - slightly lower than the back
max droop
Roll bar in long link (rear hole in wishbone)
camber 1 deg
Slight toe out
Standard wing

Rear

Blue spring with compensator spring
middle hole on wishbone (thats with the longer shaft, may need lower hole)
Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
30wt oil depending on temp
Lower hole on the hub [high position]
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward half gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
ride height - wishbone level
max droop


Extras

Motor LRP x11 bonded 6.5
One-way shaft - three o-rings on brake bias
Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps - see picture
Cone washers on top of front hubs removed and replaced with two 1mm washers underneath the wishbone and 1 on top.
Rear anti-roll bar lowered
Schumacher Mini-pins - yellow compound with blue foams/inserts
Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims (see picture)

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=36&pictureid=1014
I think i've remembered everything there :)

[restimax]

@ mattym0310

hi,

with oils soft than you used, the car on curve do not to overturn itself?:confused:

[timmy121]

cheers lads but whats
Additional 57 hole in piston
you put extra holes in the piston

[Lowie]

...

Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps - see picture
Cone washers on top of front hubs removed and replaced with two 1mm washers underneath the wishbone and 1 on top.
Rear anti-roll bar lowered
Schumacher Mini-pins - yellow compound with blue foams/inserts
Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims (see picture)

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=36&pictureid=1014
I think i've remembered everything there :)

* bumper cut: what picture do you mean?
* Cone washer replaced: any pictures? what size are these washers (exterior diameter)
* how do you lower a roll-bar?
* cutting rings on the rims ... why? Is it for better fitting of the Shumi-tyres?

thx :D

[AndyM]

ignore.

[mattym0310]

* bumper cut: what picture do you mean?
* Cone washer replaced: any pictures? what size are these washers (exterior diameter)
* how do you lower a roll-bar?
* cutting rings on the rims ... why? Is it for better fitting of the Shumi-tyres?

thx :D

Hi lowie,
* when I put about the cut bumper I was going to upload the picture kev has already put up but forgot :lol: so here it is (http://www.oople.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4299&d=1225220023)
* By cone washer, I meant the blue cone spacer on top of the front hubs [below the upper wishbone]. I have taken this off and replaced it with 2x 1mm spacers/washers underneath the upper wishbone, and 1x 1mm spacer/washer above it.
* anti roll bar lowered at the rear - picture attached, means that a slot has to be cut into the blue hinge pin brace at the rear of the car to hold the ARB. This helps to make it more fluid over the bumps because the ARB is more progressive.
* I found that cutting the rims made it easier to fit the schu. tires so I can get them more consistent each time, and I think it also makes the rims flex a little more without compromising strength.

Timmy, when it says to drill another 57 hole in the pistons it means to drill a second hole in the piston [on the opposite side to the first] which is the same size as the one already there.

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=36&pictureid=1016

[restimax]

this is my solution for rear sway bar...

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4998/09122008023di9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/09122008023di9.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img512/09122008023di9.jpg/1/)

this is a old bar for old pred...:p:D
in this day i have made some mod on my x11, drill new holes on wishbones for sway bar, anti-squat -1.5 mm than the original. new holes in to carbon rear plate for more droop. (thanks to niggs98)
next sunday i have a race on carpet, my problem is set the damper: because forward i have the old damper, but at the rear i use a big bore....:yawn:

[Northy]

Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims (see picture)
[/LIST]
http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=36&pictureid=1014

Did you once see me do this? :lol:

G

[mattym0310]

that's why I started doing it G :)

forgot to mention on my setup that I am also using drilled rear towers to give me more droop

[Northy]

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

[restimax]

my setup for X11 on carpet (side glue) with some jumps:

front:
caster all rear
toe 0
camber 2°
schock standard X11 with 2 holes
oil 40 losi
springs 5.5
pre charge 12 mm.
tires schumacher minipin blu

rear:
anti-squat -1.5 of standard kit
new drill in to carbon rear plates, for more droop
camber 3°
toe in 2°
big bore (piston standard) with 1 hole
oil 20 losi
spring 5.5 + pre compression
pre charge 6 mm.
sway bar soft and medium hole on wishbones
tires schumacher minipin yellow

motor 6.5
ni-mh 4600 east power

[restimax]

please help me, for linoleum setup!!!:cry:

[jc79]

please help me, for linoleum setup!!!:cry:
herse my much guarded set up for all tracks. the only thing youll need to change is the ride height.

Front
Oil 30wt Reg pistons
Sprong. black no compression or rebound valve spring spacers 1x 4mm 3x3mm & 1x1mm
Washers in front of upper wishbone holder 1x 1mm all others at the back.
shocker pivots ( the blue bits that hold the shock on) up side down and the droop bars attatched under neith.
2x rubber bands on the one way prop shaft.
1deg to out
-2 deg camber
anti roll bar 2nd hole in from outer.
diff tight with no slip
front wing with 4mm of gurnie

REAR
40wt oil std pistons
springs silver and pre compress springs no rebound valves.
1x4mm spacer 2x3mm spacer
lowest hole on upper wish bones.
- 2/3 deg toe in depending on how slippery
Outer on the hub carriers
-1 deg camber
lower on hub carriers to lower wish bone
rear diff slacker than front still with no slip
B44 hish down force rear wing with 3mm of gurnie.
anti roll bar outer

5.5 novak brushless with std spur and 18t pinion

Hope this helps as now iv got the perfect handling pred for all conditions
just put it down and off we go. Had some great results this season
2ns f345, 1st teesside regional and 1 leg of the f2 finals by 12 seconds once i sorted my electrics out.

cheers
James ( big brotha voice) Chappell

[Lowie]

and how do you guys cut those inner rings on the rims? With a knife? or dremel?

...
forgot to mention on my setup that I am also using drilled rear towers to give me more droop

sounds interesting. Any pics on how this extra droop is achieved?
( I think this was allready covered on the Pred-forum ... but since this forum is not functioning anymore :( ... )

[AndyM]

and how do you guys cut those inner rings on the rims? With a knife? or dremel?



sounds interesting. Any pics on how this extra droop is achieved?
( I think this was allready covered on the Pred-forum ... but since this forum is not functioning anymore :( ... )

Hi mate, rims are cut just using curved body shell scissors. dremel would be just as easy.

The pics are shown here: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15796

Just an extra hole drilled alongside the existing shock mount hole.

HTH :)

[restimax]

Hope this helps as now iv got the perfect handling pred for all conditions
just put it down and off we go. Had some great results this season
2ns f345, 1st teesside regional and 1 leg of the f2 finals by 12 seconds once i sorted my electrics out.

cheers
James ( big brotha voice) Chappell

Thanks!;)

[jc79]

Thanks!;)
Your very welcome;):bored:

[Alfonzo]

JC - are you running the 'Big Bore' shocks, or is that setup with the old style jobbies?

[timmy121]

he runs big bore i'm pretty sure of it

[mattym0310]

yeah james is runnning big bores on his pred :thumbsup:

[jc79]

JC - are you running the 'Big Bore' shocks, or is that setup with the old style jobbies?

Hi Alfonzo

Yep big bores all round. Basicly the x11/08 set up.

Regards
James

[Alfonzo]

Ok thanks. Gonna get myself a set for the ol' X10.

[timmy121]

hi again
just wondering by taking the washer off the rear drive from behind the wheel adapter, have the wheel distance closer together will that give more rear end grip or less

cheers Pete

[niggs98]

hi again
just wondering by taking the washer off the rear drive from behind the wheel adapter, have the wheel distance closer together will that give more rear end grip or less

cheers Pete


more grip but also less stability on high grip sections

[niggs98]

hi all here is my setup from petit

front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 40wt losi
piston 2 x 0.96 holes, no rebound valve
pushrod above rocker + cone washer
pushrod lenth 23mm with shockball undone 1turn + new lower mounting point (pm me an email addy for a picture to explain)
standard front arms with 0 washer behind wishbone
no washer under outer point hub standard height
roll bar 1.2mm (standard) in stiff position
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
0 degree toe in/out with 2.5 degrees of camber

rear

springs white with compression spring
oil 35 wt losi
piston 2x 0.96 holes
middle hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm in stiff hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase standard
extra droop hole used but with ball joints wound on fully (half way between the 2 holes )
ride height 22mm
large rear wing with half guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear uprite in lower hole

shumacher yellow minipins with outside and inside row cutoff rear and 1 inner and 2 outer cut off front. mr O inserts used

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

[niggs98]

hi all here is my setup from rnd 5 worksop

front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 40wt losi
piston 2 x 0.96 holes, no rebound valve
pushrod above rocker + cone washer
pushrod lenth 23mm with shockball undone 1turn + new lower mounting point (pm me an email addy for a picture to explain)
standard front arms with 0 washer behind wishbone
no washer under outer point hub in lowwered position
no roll bar
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
0 degree toe in/out with 1.5 degrees of camber

rear

springs white with compression spring
oil 35 wt losi
piston 2x 0.96 holes
middle hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm in soft hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase standard
extra droop hole used but with ball joints wound on fully (half way between the 2 holes )
ride height 22mm
large rear wing with half guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear uprite in lower hole

shumacher yellow minipins with outside and inside row cutoff rear and 1 inner and 2 outer cut off front. mr O inserts used

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

[niggs98]

hi all here is my setup from the EIR race belgium

front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 40wt losi
piston 2 x 0.96 holes, no rebound valve
pushrod above rocker + cone washer
pushrod lenth 23mm with shockball undone 1turn + new lower mounting point (pm me an email addy for a picture to explain)
standard front arms with 0 washer behind wishbone
no washer under outer point hub standard height
roll bar 1.2mm (standard) in stiff position
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
0 degree toe in/out with 2.5 degrees of camber + 2 mm washer under outer steering point to remove bumpsteer

rear

springs white with compression spring
oil 35 wt losi
piston 2x 0.96 holes
middle hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm in stiff hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase standard
extra droop hole used but with ball joints wound on fully (half way between the 2 holes )
ride height 22mm
large rear wing with half guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear uprite in lower hole

shumacher yellow minispikes with outside and inside row cutoff rear and 2 inner and 3 outer cut off front. mr O inserts used

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

[jeff jenkins]

i think you mean .096" on the piston holes unless you really put holes that are bigger than the piston..lol

[timmy121]

depends niggs maybe taking in mm
cos 0.96 convert is 0.037 inch

[KevLee]

i think you mean .096" on the piston holes unless you really put holes that are bigger than the piston..lol

We use metric scale Jeff :p, about 0.038" (or drill size 62).;)

[samd]

sorry to sound daft but what does guerney mean?

[timmy121]

the bit on the back of the wing that go's straight up
if that make sence

[KevLee]

sorry to sound daft but what does guerney mean?

Its the vertical section at the rear of the wing that you can cut to change airflow.

More gurney = less steering at speed and more stability.
Less gurney = more steering at speed and less stabilty

[jeff jenkins]

oops i forgot im on the wrong side of the pond. :D only the U.S. uses the standard measurement system.. lol i wish we didnt tho.

[Alfonzo]

Nahh, we use it too for some stuff, like Aerospace & fluid fittings. But mostly metric, which I prefer TBH as is much easier to get your head around. Still, we only have ourselves to blame as we came up with the inch system wayy back in the day :lol:

[Arn0]

Hi Nathans,

I guess that the "pushrod lenth 23mm with shockball undone 1turn + new lower mounting point" you speak about in the three above setup!

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tenthtechnology/setupx11/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118_4_800.jpg

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/petit2009/4wd/bigimages/OOP_6278.jpg

[Panic]

what is the benefit of having the pushrod like that? i had it like that and front suspension felt alot stiffer.

[niggs98]

its a kev lee mod that has the same effect as moving the shock in on the bottom of the wishbone.

[Alfonzo]

Where did you get your stick lipo battery strap from?

[KevLee]

Where did you get your stick lipo battery strap from?

If you are looking at the lower picture thats my car. The strap is a modified B4 strap with the "wings" cut off and holes drilled at either end.

[Alfonzo]

Cheers Kev.

[Lowie]

I will have the oportunity to drive/train on the dirt-track on Stokrooie in Belgium tomorrow.
Any idea which setup I could use for the X11 '08?

It's dirt, sometimes very rutten, with a table, wall of death, tight corners ... in short: a splendid circuit

Pictures can be found in this thread (http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/electro-autos/50950-atr-nieuwe-track-layout.html)

(I thought I allready asked this info overhere, but seem not able to find it)

[Lowie]

... pushrod lenth 23mm with shockball undone 1turn....

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tenthtechnology/setupx11/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118_4_800.jpg


What do you mean with shockball undone 1turn, Nathan?and also, could you, in some way, show us where exactly the new hole was drilled in the Wishbone.
I guess it's a the edge of the webbing?

[niggs98]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tenthtechnology/setupx11/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118/X11_NathanRalls_PRC20090118_4_800.jpg


What do you mean with shockball undone 1turn, Nathan?and also, could you, in some way, show us where exactly the new hole was drilled in the Wishbone.
I guess it's a the edge of the webbing?


i run justr on the thin part of the webbing. kev runs further out. i will get a measurment after the weekend as im not gonna get the time on my cars as it is.

shock ball undone 1 turn means 1 thread showing on the shock shaft ball joint

[Lowie]

this comes from the Worksop-setup, Nathan:
no washer under outer point hub in lowwered positionDo you mean by that:
No cone washer between the upright (hub?) and the ball joint on the top side
and
on the bottom side of the upright: a washer UNDER the balljoint, so that the upright is in it's lowest position?


ps: remember my diff-problems at EIR, and the fact that we (you) had to use more then 3 shms to shim y diff correctly?
Rebuild my car once more and found out that one of the rear diff bushes is worn out (must have had a nasty hit, some of the metal border was bend), which causes extra slack.

[blitzboy]

i think nathan means the under side of the hub mate , itryed it and it was brilliant , oh yer your shells in the post too mate

[niggs98]

this comes from the Worksop-setup, Nathan:
Do you mean by that:
No cone washer between the upright (hub?) and the ball joint on the top side
and
on the bottom side of the upright: a washer UNDER the balljoint, so that the upright is in it's lowest position?


ps: remember my diff-problems at EIR, and the fact that we (you) had to use more then 3 shms to shim y diff correctly?
Rebuild my car once more and found out that one of the rear diff bushes is worn out (must have had a nasty hit, some of the metal border was bend), which causes extra slack.

no washer between the upright is the upper outer point as i often run this low to calm the car down on power (to get the steering balance i like on the car)
hub low means a washer below the lower mount as this give more steering in general (after getting the balance i like i can then add more steering to get the car quicker in the low speed corners and gain pivot)

the worn/bent bush explains a lot as to the problems you had that day. will chat to you on msn about it ;)

[Lowie]

thx Nathan, for clarifying :)

I also tried to build the "new pushrod".
It was a bit tricky to find away to mount this shorter pushrod, keeping it clear from the axe.
I guess the mounting-position with a servo-post as described here (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19545) is a very good and maybe the best idea. I will order em some of thsese posts but in the mean time the new mounting position I build will have to do.

A remark, though. These shorter psuhrods are build using the rear-toe-turnbucles. But these turnbucles are only 30 mm long and that's a bit short I think.
I allready consulted the lunsford-website for some 40 mm turnbucles with diameter of 3mm but these donot seem to exist. Pitty.

[niggs98]

thx Nathan, for clarifying :)


A remark, though. These shorter psuhrods are build using the rear-toe-turnbucles. But these turnbucles are only 30 mm long and that's a bit short I think.
I allready consulted the lunsford-website for some 40 mm turnbucles with diameter of 3mm but these donot seem to exist. Pitty.

personally i use a shorter link than standard. (one off my old x6) but have also seen others use the rear tow in link with out issues. once assembled check your droop and suspension travel. i tend to shorten my push rod untill the front tyres will still just lift off the floor by 1-2mm when the car is pushed flat down

[Lowie]

...
once assembled check your droop and suspension travel. i tend to shorten my push rod untill the front tyres will still just lift off the floor by 1-2mm when the car is pushed flat down

Don't you mean the front tyres lift 1-2mm when the car is lifted off the table?
if I understand this correctly, I guess you mean there is 1 - 2 mm droop (or downstop) and that confuses me because this sounds a rather short droop-setting and I thought to have understood that more droop = better.

Or do you mean that there is only 1 - 2 mm upstop in stead of downstop?
That you drop the car on the table so that it's sets itself and you then push the car down, and the wheels only lift for 1 - 2mm until it touches the end of the shocktravel and blocks?

how much droop to you look for in the rear-section (depending on track-conditions, I guess)?

[niggs98]

on the front when i push the car down flat to the table the wheel still lifts 1-2mm before all the shock travel is taken

as for droop on the rear i equal the droop so that the bud cap in no way leaves the drive cup but is very close to the edge on full down droop. if the blade comes out of the cup at all (even only 1-2mm) it kills the budcap very quicky and then the outdrive as well

[Lowie]

okaaay :)I see now. So you set up to a maximum downstop (with the bud caps as a reference point) and an "up-stop" of "flat + 1-2mm" :)

[restimax]

any one have tried this mod at the front pushrod in outdoor track?or in slippery track?
with this the front have more steering at the low speed corners...ok but te car is more easy to driver in slippery track or nothing?
:confused:

[niggs98]

any one have tried this mod at the front pushrod in outdoor track?or in slippery track?
with this the front have more steering at the low speed corners...ok but te car is more easy to driver in slippery track or nothing?
:confused:

the extra droop on the rear and changed pushrod pointon the front do generate more mechanical grip in slippery conditions max

[Lowie]

I went to drive yesterday on a dirt-muddy track of Stokrooie (Belgium) ... and indent to go back this afternoon.

I especially drove with the stock pushrod yesterday so that I could compare the car with the shorter pushrod.

I'll post my findings, for what they are worth, this evening.

[Lowie]

Setup for Stokrooie (Belgium)
Dirt-track.
Conditions: sunny after some days of raining, 12°C
moist dirt, loose in the corners, bumpy.

* Front *
top mounting: no cone washer
bottom mounting: Upright in low position, washer onder Ball joint (*)
Camber: 1,5°
Caster: 1 washer behind
Shock: 40wt, 2 X 0.96 holes, no valve, 13,5mm clips, 5.5 spring (= blue)
short pushrod 23mm
height: 20 mm (**)
Toe: 0.5° OUT each
no roll bar
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud Red (Losa7282) ... gave a heavy steering car
Losi Blockhead Red (Losa7283) better in balance but less steering
standard front wing


* Rear *
upright in lower hole
Camber: 1,5°
Shock: 35wt, 2 x 0.96 holes, Precompr + silver (= white), Long shockshafts (aero?), middle position shock mount
Height: 23mm (**)
Toe: 2° IN each
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud (Losa7364)
large rear wing with half guerney
soft roll bar


* car *
Pred X11-08
short pushrod-mod
Stickpack(Lipo)-mod
Weight: (with 40gr in the front + 70 gr in the middle) fully equiped: 1640gr
ESC: Tekin RS Pro - (***)
Motor: LRP X11 6.5
Spektrum
schumacher blue inserts
tires: X11-rims but two inner rings cut away


(*) Front Upright slightly modded, so that the ball joint can also be mounted in a higher position and thus lowering the uprights position. (Credits go to Nathan :) )

(**) Height was ok, since the tracks had lots of holes and was very bumpy but I think he car can be lowered

(***) Tekin soft version 189
15 - 100 - 100 - 11 - BL-DL - 5 - 2 - Off - 78 - off

[Lowie]

any one have tried this mod at the front pushrod in outdoor track?or in slippery track?
with this the front have more steering at the low speed corners...ok but te car is more easy to driver in slippery track or nothing?
:confused:
I tested my X11 yesterday on the Stokrooie-track and today again, but with the short Pushrod-mod.
It definitely made the car easier to drive and added a lot of steering!
It's a keeper for me :)

but! on a rather heavy contact with the boarding (on the half-pipe), the shorter pushrod-turnbuckle stripped loose from the top ball-joint. The turn-buckle was only turned into the ball-joints for 3mm, which seems rather short IMHO.
I'm looking for some longer 3mm turnbuckles but have not found any yet :)

[KevLee]

I tested my X11 yesterday on the Stokrooie-track and today again, but with the short Pushrod-mod.
It definitely made the car easier to drive and added a lot of steering!
It's a keeper for me :)

but! on a rather heavy contact with the boarding (on the half-pipe), the shorter pushrod-turnbuckle stripped loose from the top ball-joint. The turn-buckle was only turned into the ball-joints for 3mm, which seems rather short IMHO.
I'm looking for some longer 3mm turnbuckles but have not found any yet :)

Hi Lowie,

Glad you like the mod, i'm using losi xxx (cr, bk2) rear turnbuckles with a little ground off each end, and not had any problems since i started running with the new position.

Kev

[restimax]

I tested my X11 yesterday on the Stokrooie-track and today again, but with the short Pushrod-mod.
It definitely made the car easier to drive and added a lot of steering!
It's a keeper for me :)

but! on a rather heavy contact with the boarding (on the half-pipe), the shorter pushrod-turnbuckle stripped loose from the top ball-joint. The turn-buckle was only turned into the ball-joints for 3mm, which seems rather short IMHO.
I'm looking for some longer 3mm turnbuckles but have not found any yet :)

Hi mate,
do you have used the rear toe link turnbuckle of pred?i have try with this...but the up balljoint is mounted under the crank...and the lenth is 20mm for me.

[Lowie]

yup, i indeed used a Pred-rear-toe-turnbuckle.
Might try the one thatMr Lee suggested or try mounting it under the crank.
That second option might as well be a solution for the very steep angle at which it is not so simple to mount that pushrod.
Would the functioning stay the same?

Here are some more pics of the actual mounting (that i took during cleaning):

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred_ShortPushrod/images/img_1246.jpg

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred_ShortPushrod/images/img_1248.jpg

[Lowie]

I have yet another question.

I changed one of the rear upper ball joints because it had to much slop and had quite some wear from the rim.
This is how the new ball joint looked like after one afternoon of training:

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred_ShortPushrod/images/img_1252.jpg
.. again quite some wear.
The rim simply eats away the ball joint. Can't be good

Is there a way to prevent this? ... without changing the driving-properties of the car ?

[restimax]

I tested my X11 yesterday on the Stokrooie-track and today again, but with the short Pushrod-mod.
It definitely made the car easier to drive and added a lot of steering!
It's a keeper for me :)


Hi lowie,
in the test you use a standard antisquat at the rear?
byez
:)

[Lowie]

Hi lowie,
in the test you use a standard antisquat at the rear?
byez
:)

oops, is there a way then to change the anti-squat? :blush:

[KevLee]

yup, i indeed used a Pred-rear-toe-turnbuckle.
Might try the one thatMr Lee suggested or try mounting it under the crank.
That second option might as well be a solution for the very steep angle at which it is not so simple to mount that pushrod.
Would the functioning stay the same?



Hi Lowie, the problem with mounting it under the rocker (i find) is that as the wishbone travels up the pushrod doesn't stay as perpendicular to the rocker and so will make it softer... i find it makes the steering a bit vague. I'm not saying its not worth trying, just that it will be a different feel.

If you have no cone washers to mount it to the wishbone with you can use m3 nuts, one to bolt the screw to the wishbone and then one upside down on top of the balljoint... it might help with the clearance. Adams solution is the best though using the servo mounting bits.

On that rear balljoint i tend to run it as far inboard on the hub location slot as possible which stops the wheel touching, if you still have a slight problem take a little off with a dremel, theres plenty of meat on them and i don't think i've ever broken a joint in that position.

Antisquat... we have been playing with less antisquat but so far i think we have all ended back at kit standard.

[restimax]

@ kevlee

when i try to mount the pushrod on up the crank the suspension is not free.

@ lowie

for change the antisquat you must to lower from 1 mm the internal alu squat block, under the spur gear....for more info send a pm at nathan, because i have some problem with translation....:yawn:

[KevLee]

@ kevlee

when i try to mount the pushrod on up the crank the suspension is not free.



That will probably be because the balljoints are past there range of movement. I drill the hole through the wishbone at an angle similar to the normal mounting hole and use a cone washer below and above the balljoint and my suspension is totaly free.

Have you seen the other mounting method here?

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19545

[Lowie]

I drilled the hole vertically just to keep the A-arm reversible as the stock ones do.
If you drill the hole in an angle, it' is only usable on one side.
That means that, when going to a competition, and you drilled similar holes in your spare A-arms, you can not use them on both sides anymore.

And YES, the solution with the servo-posts is definitly the best one. Since I haven't got any of those yet, I made my actual mounting .. but I can still adapt it with the servo-posts as soon as they arrive :)

[restimax]

i have drilled the wishbones vertically!
the method with servo post is a good idea, but is more different the lenght of 2 point (standard, and new) on the wishbones, with more differences on the drive....i hope. :D
the best is a new wishbones with new design and 3 point for mount the pushrod.:thumbsup:

[Lowie]

mm, don't know.
I personally think that the servo-postmethod is the best way.
I might even say that new A-arms better not have a mounting point as they do now, or three ...
It would be easier to have one without the mounting points but with three holes. This would make them even lighter.
(with mounting points would mean 6 mounting points as the A-arms are reversible!)

[KevLee]

I drilled the hole vertically just to keep the A-arm reversible as the stock ones do.
If you drill the hole in an angle, it' is only usable on one side.
That means that, when going to a competition, and you drilled similar holes in your spare A-arms, you can not use them on both sides anymore.

And YES, the solution with the servo-posts is definitly the best one. Since I haven't got any of those yet, I made my actual mounting .. but I can still adapt it with the servo-posts as soon as they arrive :)

Point taken about keeping them reversable, I was just trying to point out the reason why the suspension isn't free. I tend to drill mine trackside as it only takes a second and they rarely break anyway.:)

[restimax]

i have try the system with servo mount, the work is good.....but....
if in the race the screw of the servo mount will losen the servo mount rotate on wishbones and born a big problem...:cry:
i have put a threadlock on the screw...but...:confused:

[Lowie]

well, I guess you can also add some CA-glue between the servo mount and the wishbone.
This will make a strong bond but if really needed can be broken (or cut) loose.

[Lowie]

Setup for Stokrooie (Belgium)
Dirt-track.
Conditions: sunny after some days of raining, 12°C
moist dirt, loose in the corners, bumpy.

* Front *
top mounting: no cone washer
bottom mounting: Upright in low position, washer onder Ball joint (*)
Camber: 1,5°
Caster: 1 washer behind
Shock: 40wt, 2 X 0.96 holes, no valve, 13,5mm clips, 5.5 spring (= blue)
short pushrod 23mm
height: 20 mm (**)
Toe: 0.5° OUT each
no roll bar
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud Red (Losa7282) ... gave a heavy steering car
Losi Blockhead Red (Losa7283) better in balance but less steering
standard front wing


* Rear *
upright in lower hole
Camber: 1,5°
Shock: 35wt, 2 x 0.96 holes, Precompr + silver (= white), Long shockshafts (aero?), middle position shock mount
Height: 23mm (**)
Toe: 2° IN each
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud (Losa7364)
large rear wing with half guerney
soft roll bar


* car *
Pred X11-08
short pushrod-mod
Stickpack(Lipo)-mod
Weight: (with 40gr in the front + 70 gr in the middle) fully equiped: 1640gr
ESC: Tekin RS Pro - (***)
Motor: LRP X11 6.5
Spektrum
schumacher blue inserts
tires: X11-rims but two inner rings cut away


(*) Front Upright slightly modded, so that the ball joint can also be mounted in a higher position and thus lowering the uprights position. (Credits go to Nathan :) )

(**) Height was ok, since the tracks had lots of holes and was very bumpy but I think he car can be lowered

(***) Tekin soft version 189
15 - 100 - 100 - 11 - BL-DL - 5 - 2 - Off - 78 - off

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

[mattym0310]

Batley Super Cup: Slippy floor and carpet, plus some rippled mats.

Front


Blue Spring
Additional 57 hole in piston
Oil 35wt
ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of rocker
top wishbone about in the middle (equal spacing front/rear)
ride height - slightly lower than the back
max droop
Roll bar in long link (rear hole in wishbone)
camber 1 deg
Slight toe in
Standard wing with 2mm spacer under rear mounting hole

Rear

White/Silver spring with compensator spring
lower mounting hole on wishbone
Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
30wt oil
Lower hole on the hub (high position)
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward half gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
ride height - wishbone level
max droop


Extras

Motor LRP x12 6.5 (20/72), LRP Sphere Comp ESC
One-way shaft - three o-rings on brake bias
Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps
Cone washers on top of front hubs removed and replaced with two 1mm washers underneath the wishbone and 1 on top.
Rear anti-roll bar lowered
Schumacher Mini-pins - yellow compound with blue foams/inserts
Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims
Stick Lipo conversion (5000mah lipo set far forward as possible)

[mattym0310]

forgot to mention... car was dialed :thumbsup:

[restimax]

I'm looking for some longer 3mm turnbuckles but have not found any yet :)

i have found tc5 associated turnbuckles...35 mm in titanium blue.

[Lowie]

And I have found some 35 and 38 mmtitanium Turnbuckles from Tamiya. :)


3x38mm: Tam 49175 and Tam 42119 (blue)
3x35mm : Tam 53528

[restimax]

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

ride height is enought?
soft oil with stiffnes springs?

[KevLee]

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

Try the rear hub low (upper holes), that helps chill the car out on high grip and bumpy tracks. It has a similar effect as raising the inner link on a conventional car. It will also take away some turn in pivot and give more steering on power. You do lose drive with it like that though so if its really slippy it may be no good.

Also i find 40 gramms under the fronts shocks is too much and it makes the car hang on too much out of the turn. I run 20g mostly.

A softer rear spring will calm the car down, i run yellow with the extra spring on the back and red on the front. So i'd suggest going back to 3 degree toe and going softer on the spring.

ride height i run the car with rear wishbones level and front slightly sagged (smiley face)

Hope this helps and gives you a start with things to try :)

[nikos2002]

Should be moving over to the X11 in the coming weeks, one question for Kevin - I didn't see yellow or red springs listed on the site or the manual. Can you please give me a little more info or part numbers? or are they another kind of spring. Thanks. Nick

[niggs98]

xtreme have started to colour code there springs.

from hard to soft the colours are white,blue,yellow red. xtreme do sell them either seperate or as a set. i will ask lewis for the part number

[Lowie]

I just made this documentation-page for myself ... but have some blancs.
Can somenone fill them in?
(I guess the Shop-codes for the new colour-rated springs might be the same as the older codes?)

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/Predator/Predator%20Spring%20shart.pdf

[mattym0310]

Hi Lowie,
The numbers you have on the sheet for the 'x10' springs are actually the ones for the 'x11' springs.
White - XDO21
Blue - XDO20
but am unsure of the rest as they aren't on the website. The x10 spring part numbers, or so I believe, are the ones beginning in 's' underneath the springs on the picture at the top of the page. Except for the pre-compression spring which is S121. Does that make sense?

[Lowie]

well, i did thought of that too and hesitated.

and indeed, i couldn't find the numbers on the website


thx

[Tom3012]

Could someone please take a picture of the underside of the wishbones for the new pushrod position?

Ive just done mine and im using the blue servo mounts but it seems really stiff and the car wont bottom out, which im guessing puts alot of strain on the actual rocker pivots?

Thanks, Tom

[AndyM]

Are your pushrods the correct length Tom? This may be why your car won't bottom out.

I think most people have the new holes just outside of where the wishbone slopes down to the thinner material (if that makes any kind of sense?:lol:).

Hope this helps :)

[KevLee]

Could someone please take a picture of the underside of the wishbones for the new pushrod position?

Ive just done mine and im using the blue servo mounts but it seems really stiff and the car wont bottom out, which im guessing puts alot of strain on the actual rocker pivots?

Thanks, Tom

Tom, have you cut the shock balljoints down?

[Lowie]

the turnbuckles on my short pushrods are 35mm.
Here you can c some pics I quickly took and posted on my webserver:

http://www.ludodg.com/RC/albums/Pred_pushrodMod2/

I first measured it up, then drilled with a 1.5mm drill and then with a 3mm drill.

and ... thx!! By taking and checking these pics, I noticed the left front drive shaft is bend :) I hadn't noticed it earlier. ;)

Kev, what do you mean by cut the shock balljoints down?
Should you cut a balljoint? Where and why?
I haven't and do not seem to have any contact between the pushrod and drive shaft, ...

[Tom3012]

Tom, have you cut the shock balljoints down?

I haven't no, how much should I take off?

[KevLee]

This is my current stick pack setup and will be my starting point for the first national.

Stick Pack setup:

Rear
Yellow spring with compensator spring
middle hole on tower
tower reversed to give more droop
New hole in shock mount (more droop)
17mm of shock shaft showing
New Piston (same as additional 57 hole)
30wt oil depending on temp
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
Wishbone just below level
Antisquat - Standard brace


Front
Spring - Red
New Piston (same as additional 57 hole)
Oil 32.5wt
3mm internal shock spacer
2.5mm cut off balljoint
14mm of shock shaft showing
New postion on wishbone using blue servo mounts and hole drilled at edge of webbing
push rod turnbuckle - 22mm - mounted on top of yoke with cone spacer also
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height - wishbones slightly sagged
No Roll bar
camber 1 deg
Slight toe out
Front hubs modded and mounted low

Extras
20g under front shocks
5g to space speedo from shaft
2 x 5g to space lipo fromt shaft
Trakpower 4900 - approx 280g
Motor Tekin Redline 6.5 geared on 20/72
Tekin RS Pro mounted up front to get weight forward
One-way shaft
Bumper cut down

[KevLee]

I haven't no, how much should I take off?

Cut 2.5mm cut off the balljoint -this allows the shock to compress more and will allow the car to bottom out and a little more.

I also run a 3mm internal shock spacer -this stops the spring retainer clashing with the rocker arm which stops the shocks from ever fully extending.

Start with all the other lengths etc i've posted in the setup above and it should all work quite nicely :).

[KevLee]

Kev, what do you mean by cut the shock balljoints down?
Should you cut a balljoint? Where and why?
I haven't and do not seem to have any contact between the pushrod and drive shaft, ...

Hopefully its answered above, its to change the range of travel.

If you don't do this you may struggle to get enough up travel, unless you have a shorter pushrod... but then you may not have enough droop, unless you don't run the 3mm shock spacer... but then if you don't run that you'll find that the spring retainer hits the rocker and you don't get a "clean" range of travel.

My head hurts a little after thinking about all this but basically thats where i am... i hope it helps :confused:

[Lowie]

well, thanks for the thinking, KevLee :)

I had to read your post several times before I could understand it all, but it does indeed make sence.
Yesterday, I started prepping my car and worked very late, just to have everything OK.
I drove in a local competition today, not so high level of competition, but much fun, on a bumpy grass-track.

I used your (KevLee) Stickpack starting setup on a local track: a grass-track.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nPgVvW62_6E/SM04BpBkMiI/AAAAAAAACCI/RAvXcEJ5ASo/s640/DSCN2697.JPG

The setup worked as a charm.
I had some problems, finding the right tyres for the wet grass (it was raining all morning), but it worked out with some Shum Full SPikes and minispikes when the track was getting dryer.

I finished 2e but I have to admit the level of competition was not that high.
Later on, a friend, who used to drive an X10 some years ago, and who won the competition today, tested my X11-08 (short pushrod, stickpack, new steering parts) and he was positivly amazed.
When he test-drove my pred it was clear he was running much quicker with my X11 then he did all day with his Tamiya 501 :)
He admitted a lot of progress had been made with the actual X11-08, since his X10 and told me he was hesitating to order a Pred once again.

And once again, I had no breakage on the pred. I make it an isue of driving as clean (and fast) as possible, without braking my limits, getting my Pred to the finish, every time. Just to prove people wrong when they say the Pred is "brittle" car :)
...
but my driving skill ... well they are improving, but I'm not there yet :D lol

[Panic]

Wow nice track,,,,even the drivers stand is covered with green. Thats wht i call enviromental friendly !:thumbsup:

[Lowie]

yup, and yet
that track is only used for 8 competition-sundays a year, not for training, nothing ...
Only electro 1/10 buggies
and still the neigbours complain. :bored:

[Alfonzo]

Well done Lowie, good to see you enjoying the fruits of your efforts. :thumbsup:

[KevLee]

Lowie, good to hear you got on with the setup and enjoyed the meeting. Its also good to here that someone else had a go and was impressed!

I used the same setup at the first 4wd BRCA Regional on Sunday at Swindon and tq'd and won and i didn't really need to change anything again. We had 3 preds in the A final qualifying 1st, 4th and 5th and all were using the basic setup posted above.

Kev

[Lowie]

... We had 3 preds in the A final qualifying 1st, 4th and 5th and all were using the basic setup posted above.

Kev

yeay,
Preds go conquer the world :lol: :thumbsup:

[Lowie]

I drove at Kampenhout (Belgium, old astroturf) today.

Prevously I had problems getting a good setup for the X11-08.
Long story, told shortly: I used the KevLee Setup ... fitted Minipins in the rear and on the front
and the car went very good!

I won't say the car was excellent because I'm no excellent driver but that setup for sure is a very good starting point.

I experimented a bit with tyres as the track became very difficult near the evening. It's a typical Kampenhout situation: when very dry and warm weather, the dust that's on the bottom of the astroturf, gets loosened and the track becomes more and more slippery.
ALl drivers had difficulties finding a good balance near the end, seeing all kind of trics to gain traction and steering in the front (extra wings, dremeled Staggerib, ...)

Cooper tested my car and was very positive about the feel of the car also.

What I ended with was the Kevlee-setup +
Rear:
Minipins (OUT: cut one row)
Height: 16mm
Rollbar: hard (short)

Front:
Minipins (OUT: cut three rows, IN: cut 1,5 row)
Spring: Yellow (in stead of red)
Height: 20mm
Rollbar: Medium (middle)
20 grams of weight onder the shocks


Also I used:
6.5 CS-motor
Teking RS Pro with throttle profile 3
Corally 4200-Lipo

And the slipper was 'kinda loose'
Using Minispikes yellow (OUT: cut 2 rows, IN; cut 1 row) on the front made the car a bit understeered but also very drivable

!? I had to loosen the throttle on flat jumps to prevent the car to go nose-up. Might have tried to ad some weight in the front also, but didn't find the time.

[Lowie]

I need a setup for a clay track, dusty en very slippery.

Yesterday, Bart "Phoenix" phoned me, totally disappointed.
This sunday he will be competing in a manche of our Belgian-Dutch Championship at MVB Bergschenhoek (Netherlands).
(youtube-movie from the track) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjteP_9DaDw&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mvbracing.nl%2Findex.php%3Fo ption%3Dcom_content%26task%3Dview%26id%3D136%26Ite mid%3D39&feature=player_embedded)

Bart went training but not find a good setup (he was constantly beaten by his friend, novice on Offroad and driving another car).

Anyone some tricks op your sleeves that might help him?

He is running an X11-08, stickpack lipo, 6.5 BL if I recall well, and new steering parts. BB-shocks with standard pistons.
So far, he didn't want to try the new steep-pushrods-mod neither, saying the pred drives great as she is.
ANyway,

If anyone has a setup for such a track, please chear the knowledge.

[KevLee]

It would be good to have the setup as he was running it and we might be able to make some suggestions from there. Also to know what was lacking..

I really do think that on a track like that the pushrod mod and hub mod would make a big difference.

[restimax]

:woot: very nice track!!!:wub

[Lowie]

(pushord-mod & hub-mod: I thought so too)

I phoned him and told him he 'd better post his tried setup here, just as you said/asked.
We'll see from there.

[feniks]

so what I have tryed.
on the rear oils from 25 to 35 singel and dubble drild pistons.
low and high roll center.
every position on the rear rocker arms.
the front the same more and less caster .
puchrods on top off yoke or on the bottem.
and this is how I ended.
front caster 3 shims on the rear off the upper arm.
puchrods on top of yoke .
shocks oil 40 new piston.
yellow springs
0 degree camber .
the rear bottem hole off hub ( low rollcenter to give more drive)
shocks in the middle position on rocker.
oil 35 new piston
red springs
0 degree camber
I think thats about it.
the car feld good at several moments but wasent fast at all.
whith the last setup the car was lose at the rear too lose but its averidge whas axepteble.
any help would be great

[blitzboy]

what is the car doing on the track buddy ,anything wierd , is it sliding alot and losing grip on the corners too

[feniks]

getting in tho a corner is perfect even in the mid corner but than comming
out her ass is evry ware .
even onn the bumpy places(everyware) the car handels great .
but when exiting a corner I need too wait too long befor tuching the gas

[KevLee]

Try the rear like this..

Soft pistons
30wt
lower hole on hub (think you are there already
Lower hole on rear tower
Red spring.

Make sure you don't have more droop on the front than the rear. Also make sure your rear diff isn't slipping or tight... I had a similar issue recently and it turned out to be the rear diff.

Are you running anything under the balljoint on the front hub?

[feniks]

djest putted in new diffs tho richt of the diff problem.
I whas driving in the upper hole on the hub but than tryid the bottem one
and that whas far better.
there is a cone wacher under the front balcup.
have 43 mm off droop raer and 35 front .
will change oil on the rear too 30 .
and try on saterday
it is possible that it was the diff so we chal see iff it works now(had thot abaut it so daerfor it is a new one now)

[feniks]

forgat tho mention whas driving standard puchrods in the front .
talkt tho lewis and he sugjested tho put also the puchrod mod on .
so alraedy prepeard that aswel

[Lowie]

glad to hear you (at last) try the pushrod-mod as well :)

[Lowie]

had a phone-call with Bart (Phoenix of Feniks).

Seems his problems came from a bad batch of Losi-tyres.
He was not the only one having troubles ... and when they mounted some older, worn tyres, they were significant faster then with the "new" ones.

Unfortunatly, Bart did not have any rims left ... so couldn't mount some new tires with some GOOD losi-tires ...
and he drove with his older Yokomo 4WD B-Max. He managed a podium-place nevertheless.

Well done, Bart.

[Lowie]

does anyone of the team-drivers have any information to share about the setup(s) that was (were) used at the Euro's?

Any new tricks, testresults, things we could learn from?

[spenner]

Euro's Setup:

Rear
Red spring with compensator spring
middle hole on tower
New hole in shock mount (more droop)
17mm of shock shaft showing
Old piston's drilled to 57 hole
32.5wt oil
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
Wishbone level
Antisquat - Standard brace

Front
Spring - Blue
Old piston drilled to 57 hole
Oil 32.5wt
New position on wishbone using blue servo mounts and hole drilled at edge of webbing
push rod turnbuckle - mounted on top of yoke with cone spacer also
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height - wishbones slightly sagged
camber 2 deg
No toe in/out
Front hubs modded and mounted low

Extras
20g under front shocks
5g to space speedo from shaft
6 x 5g to along spine to space lipo fromt shaft
Trakpower 4900 - approx 280g
Motor Tekin Redline 5.5 geared on 21/72
Tekin RS Pro mounted up front to get weight forward
Diff front and rear, locked prop.
Bumper cut down
Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels
Schumacher Yellow mini spikes
Trishbits foam inserts

[nikos2002]

Thank you very much for the set up information!! Any chance we can get a picture of the car to see how the electronics are laid out???

[niggs98]

Thank you very much for the set up information!! Any chance we can get a picture of the car to see how the electronics are laid out???

have a look at jimmys car, post 75 on this thread http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11302&page=4. seems to be the norm now. if you have a tekin then you can lay the servo down (for less flex) and still have the space to fit it all in ;)

[Bungleaio]

Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels


Any chance of some more info on these?

[nikos2002]

Thanks for the link Nathan. Do you have your servo laid down or straight up?

[niggs98]

layed down. i copied kev and made a carbon mount for my servo then bolted that into the car otherwise one of the servo mounts is either in or very close to a batteryslot so is a very weak mount unless you do this. as a rough guide i leave a 4mm gap between the servo and motor for the sensor wire. for motor removal i then remove the 2 motor mount screws and the "jesus screw" and take the complete assembly out. this gives more room for the speedo ;)

[Lowie]

at Spenner, about your setup:

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

and ... thanks for sharing! :D

[spenner]

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

The measurement is different for each car, basically equal droop on the front. The wishbones will be at max droop. When the car is compressed at the front it should bottom out and you will just be able to raise each wheel.
I will get the measurements but i can tell you it is different for each car as mine is different to Kev's.


Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Pistons are 1 hole with extra 57 hole drilled, and run 57 drill through current hole.

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

Not sure what i put down!!!! But i am running the diff in front and rear with the locked prop shaft. So permanent 4wd.

Hope this helps....

Spenner

[Bungleaio]

Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels


Any chance of some more info on these?Any chance of some more info on these?

I'm doing a full rebuild this weekend, I'd be interested in knowing what you've done to the front hinge pin holder. Cheers mate

[Lowie]

thx dude

[spenner]

I'm doing a full rebuild this weekend, I'd be interested in knowing what you've done to the front hinge pin holder. Cheers mate

All we have done is dremelled the bottom. Dremell back and round off as this digs in when landing on some jumps. I have then rounded the centre so there isn't a lip.

[Bungleaio]

All we have done is dremelled the bottom. Dremell back and round off as this digs in when landing on some jumps. I have then rounded the centre so there isn't a lip.

Cheers mate, sorry to be a pain but is there any chance of a picture.

[nikos2002]

Pretty sure this is spenner's car from earlier this year. You can see how cut down the bumper is from stock

http://www.northernracer.com/images/talywain/57.JPG

[spenner]

Yes that is my car :thumbsup:

The bumper is cut down and if you look at the front hinge pin brace you will see that has been dremelled too. This was the area we was working on at the Euros.

For now it is a short term fix but there maybe something on the way....

Will keep you posted

[Bungleaio]

Nice one cheers mate, I'll have a go at that at the weekend.

[Lowie]

Setup for Indoor Astroturf Offroadtrack of BRCC (Charleroi, Belgium)

High grip mainly but some less, what makes it difficult. Also a series of short, steep bumps.

MODS:
pushrod-mod,
stickpack
droopmod: rear: new drilled holes in the shocktowers: +2mm, shockshafts showing 17mm
front: added 3mm washer in the shock, 2,5mm cut off ball end and shaft only 14mm showing
Anti-rollbar: extra medium hole drilled on all A-arms.

FRONT:
height: 16mm
shocks:
piston 2 holes
Precompression + blue
35wt (losi)
A-Rbar: medium
Tires: Schum MiniSpikes Yellow (worn out!!) with cut 2 outer and 1 inner row of spikes.
Toe-out: 1 - 2mm
20grams of lead under shocks
Caster: full back
Camber: 2°

REAR:
height: 23mm
Tower middle hole
Shocks:
piston 2 holes
precompression + yellow
30 wt (losi)
tires: Schum MiniSpikes (worn), cut 2 outer and 1 inner row of spikes
Toe-in: 3°
Camber: 2°
Hub high (lower hole)

GENERAL:
Spektrum
MRT personal transponder
Rear wing 17cm, 1cm gurney
Front wing: 2mm washers under rear part.
Lipo CS 5200mAh (30C?)
Tekin RS Pro
motor CS 6.5 sensored.

!! all this with very worn Shum MiniSpikes Yellow. When i tried some new ones, even cutting away several rows of spikes, the car still had some griproll.
I might want to try some Schum Minispikes blue (which i had not when training).
I also tried Schum Staggered ribbs in the front (what a lot of 2WD AND strangely, also lots of 4WD-drivers use on the Schum Cat and B44) but that made the car twitchy and nervous.
Spikes are the way to go with a Pred.


! Also I found the car a bit better with the modded front hubs (lowered); smoother in the turns.


[edit]
last minutes changes, after yesterdays training:
higher in the front: from 16 to 18mm
made the car go easier on the bumps, but lost some traction and steering.
I then removed both rollbars (which i usually never do ?! :confused:) .. and I gained some traction again + even better on the bumps + easier to drive on the changing-grip-section of the track. Don't know why, but it helped. (Can someone explain?)
I do want to test out with some Schum MiniSpikes Blue in the front though.

And I also want to try out with more lead in the car, making it heavier.

[migsy]

how you doing mate?

I found with my x11 once roll bars are removed, you seem to have more pivot with-in the car. the only thing that was a down fall for me was that the car would want to flip over under hard corner speed. :cry: I think that is do with how the pred is so flat?:confused:

hope this helps. :thumbsup:

[Team-ard]

@ Lowie : could I use your setups for an indoor grippy carpet race with Minipin yellow tires ? You use a low ride height but how many droop in mm do you use front / rear ?

Thanks

[pieterke]

hi all,

This is the setup I used on the last round of belgium/dutch nationals
It was run on a grass track that became very bumpy with big holes after a whole day of running the day before the race.

The car has big bore shocks, the orange steering parts, lipo chasis, and the short pushrod mod

Front:

wheels parallel
camber: -3°
caster: all spacers in front of upper wishbone
anti roll bar on soft (outer position)
droop: standard
ride height: 25 mm

shocks:
oil: 35 Losi
piston: std 2 hole
yellow spring + precompression gold
no limmiters

Rear:

toe in: 3°
camber -2°
droop: standard
anti rollbar: soft position (outer position)
ride height: 25mm
shock location: hole c= bottom hole
Rear hubs high= bottom hole

Shocks:

oil: 40 Losi
piston: std 2 hole
spring: red + precompression gold
no limmiters

I drove the car with a one way shaft but I think the solid shaft would have been better.

Tires:

front: schum minispikes yellow with one inner and 2,5 rows of outer rows cutted down
rear: schum minispikes yellow with one outer row cutted down

motor: CS 7.5 turns geared 21/72
esc: Nosram
Battery: kypom 5800 35 c stick pack

30 gr of brass under front shocks
30 gr down the spine of the car (next to the battery)
Rear wing: 7"

Car felt gr8 over the bumps, I also loosened the slipper about 1/16 of a turn so the car was more stable during acceleration out of the corners.

cheers

[MOmo]

I know these cars aren't as popular here in the US as they are in Europe, but i wondered if anyone had a decent Indoor Clay setup?

I would love to get my hands on one of these cars and a good starting point would be helpful.

Are people still running these with much success? I see some pictures but is anyone making it into the top 10 consistently with the X11?


Thanks



MOmo

[Lee1972]

Does anybody have a set up for carpet for a B4.1 Gen 2 Vega?

[MHeadling]

Lee I would go with Danny Mcgee set up, I'm running it on my Vega and its great on carpet:

Hi All,

Here is my setup from Kiddy.

Clearly i've not done much testing with the car yet, but this seemed to be a really good starting point from which i will work from.

Front
Oil: 37.5
Piston: Associated 2 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Green
Shock Position:
Inside on the wishbone
Second hole on the tower
Camber Link:
Inside on the tower
Shortest link on the Hub
2mm under the bump steer washer position
Brass bulkhead

Rear
Oil: 30
Piston: Associated 1 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Pink
Shock Position:
Inside on wishbone
Middle on tower
Camber Link:
Second from top on the longest (inside) hole
Middle on the standard 0 degree rear hubs (turned around the make the camber link a bit straighter)
Short Wheelbase
4 degree's antisquat
3.5 degree's toe in

Motor: Tekin 7.5
Speedo: Tekin RS Pro
Gearing: 26/81

[Lee1972]

Lee I would go with Danny Mcgee set up, I'm running it on my Vega and its great on carpet:

Hi All,

Here is my setup from Kiddy.

Clearly i've not done much testing with the car yet, but this seemed to be a really good starting point from which i will work from.

Front
Oil: 37.5
Piston: Associated 2 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Green
Shock Position:
Inside on the wishbone
Second hole on the tower
Camber Link:
Inside on the tower
Shortest link on the Hub
2mm under the bump steer washer position
Brass bulkhead

Rear
Oil: 30
Piston: Associated 1 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Pink
Shock Position:
Inside on wishbone
Middle on tower
Camber Link:
Second from top on the longest (inside) hole
Middle on the standard 0 degree rear hubs (turned around the make the camber link a bit straighter)
Short Wheelbase
4 degree's antisquat
3.5 degree's toe in

Motor: Tekin 7.5
Speedo: Tekin RS Pro
Gearing: 26/81

Mark,
Thanks for the reply on the camber links are you refering to using the left on the right hand side and vice versa?
Lee

[mr shortcourse]

has anyone got a astro set up for rb5 vega gen 1?

[Maddy]

has anyone got a astro set up for rb5 vega gen 1?

Still required
Thanks