Return to racing - Opinion on options please

[brown4s]

Guys,

After nearly 20 years since trying to build, setup and then race a topcat with 1700 SCRC's and SCE's I promised myself I would return to racing when the time was right.

Having started looking into a return some months ago, to say things have changed is an understatement !

I know that everyone has their own views on which packages are the best based on what they raced, so in order to try and not create a massive thread I wanted peoples views on the following products that I have almost decided on please:

Racing on mainly astro, grass and indoors:

Buggies
1/10th 2wd buggy - AE B4.2, Yok B-MAXMR or Durango DEX210

1/10th 4wd buggy - AE b44.2, Yok B-MAX4 2 world spec or Durango DEX410V3

Thoughts on both the above classes steers me to the durango's with geared diffs as they seem more reliable, not sure if they both come with geared though or whether there optional part upgrades ?

Electrics package:

- LRP Lipo, speedo and modified motor (Not sure what turn to start with)
- Dualsky Lipo, speedo and motor (Not sure what turn to start with)
- Reedy Lipo, Novak speedo and motor (Not sure what turn to start with)

Radio - Sanwa Gemini X 2.4 ghz with 451 receiver

Charger - LRP Pulsar touch competition charger

Steering servo:

Sanwa or Savox - not sure which one is the best

Really appreciate your views on these areas please.

Thanks:thumbsup:

[danDanEFC]

Seems like you have it all in hand.

I would get down to your local track and see who runs what. No point running the excellent 210 if no one else has one and you have to go home early as you don't have the spare part.

[Richard Lowe]

One thing to note in the options you've listed, the charger you've picked is really expensive.

These days with LiPo's they are either charged or they aren't, there's no need for fancy chargers like there was in the old days of SCR/E's ect. All you need to look for really is something that supports balance charging, the one I'm using at the moment cost all of £35...

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/chargers/chargers-basic/overlander-lipo-battery-balance-charger-ac-dc-rc-6s-80-watt.html

It even has mains/12v input so you don't need a separate power supply :)

[charlesk]

I was in the same boat as you a few months ago, returning to racing after nearly 20years.
My advice for what it's worth (looking back on the last few months):
i)decide which club(s) you're going to go to.
ii)see what people are running there (both make/model and class)
iii)go with whatever the bulk use (for spare and knowledge/tips)

Your 1st year (maybe more) back in racing support for what you run is far more important than a car that is 1/10th faster. You will be the limiting factor, not the car.

I will also advise to go 2wd for the first year at least. They are cheaper to buy and run, but most importantly they will teach you again how to drive an rc properly. 4wd is faster (most places) and I do prefer how it handles, but 2wd is invaluble in teaching you how to carry corner speed, throtle control etc. I short terms it will make you a better driver, even if ultimatelly you go 4wd.

For the UK, mid motor 2wd buggys have a distinct advantage (asto/carpet/grass), so I would advise getting one that can be had in that format. I really do like the B4.2 (and most associated cars), but by the time you add a conversion kit it gets very expensive for the class (and a a novice probably a waste, later on maybe).

Motor turn wise, see what people are running at the tracks you'd be going. A big outdoor track will want something a bit faster than a tight indoors, but stay on the slower end, since this will make the car easier to drive and probably be faster over a lap.

Have you got a max budget? Easier to make suggestions that way.

[neallewis]

In 2wd, the B4.2 is great car (for lots of reasons) and will work well, but you'll most likely be wanting to upgrade it with a mid motor conversion (X-factory CML C4.2) at some point after you have run it a bit.

I'd therefore recommend the Yokomo BMAX2-MR as it just builds as mid (or rear) motor out of the box, and you don't need to upgrade anything. Just buy the kit, build it and run it. The Yok plastic quality is far higher than the AE, and it's loads stronger too. I've been running my BMAX2 and other than getting ceramic diff balls, not needed to use/buy any spares. I simply haven't broken anything, and it sure gets a lot of abuse.

I restarted last year (after a 22 year break), started with a B4.1 (which i still have and run at some tracks), but also upgraded to centro C4.1, and now settled on the BMAX2MR, as it's a super good car.

I can't comment on the Yok BMAX 4, as I've not got one, but is sure looks good. The AE B44.2 is great, and I run an Xray XB4 which is bullet proof tough, but has been tricky to get setup right on low grip tracks.

Durango cars are good (from what I see club mates using), but be prepared for replacing it bit by bit with blingy extras.

[jo90]

I have been running the DEX210 and recently the DEX410 since coming over to off-road in November of last year.

The DEX210 is a brilliant car, highly competitve and no it does not need all the bits changed at all..it's a personal choice. There are two upgrades that are necessary, but thats all. These being alloy hexes for the wheels and the layshaft spacer for the HD version. Simple and cheap upgrades and from there you can race.

You mention the gear diff. For the DEX210 this is an upgrade and a good one, so when you have the extra money it is worth getting. I only run this as I find the car, for me, handles better. Plus the upside is less maintenance.

Spares wise you only really need to carry a front bulkhead, front wishbones and C-hubs and perhaps front hinge pins. If you are worried about how you will drive and perhaps hit things then maybe updating the rear-front suspension block to metal might be worth while (and again very cheap).

The DEX410 again is a car that needs little. Alloy hexes are a must and to be fair the only real update you need to make, everything else being choice than need. I admit I have blinged mine out with tresrey gear, but im diong this to really bullet proof a strong car.

The other manufacturers all have good cars, and all probably need similar spares to the Durango cars. The pricing on the Durango though is really good. In fact so good if you bought it new, bought a spares pacjkage and added alot of the 'bling' stuff, it would still be cheaper than some other manufacturers cars!

The Electrics you mention are all good. I have run Nosram LiPo's for a few months now and like them alot (the same as LRP, only red). Likewise I have the Nosram version of the touch charger. richard is right in saying though you don't need to spend out hundred's on a charger..but im a fan of their gear, have used LRP/Nosram for years without any problems, so put my faith and money into them.

Speedo wise it's quite open. I use a Tekin, but many also use HobbyWing, SpeedPassion and so on. For this perhaps it's best to see what the best deal you can get, and double check with other racers using them what motors they use (as some motors do work with some speedo's better than others).

Servo wise i switched to Futaba from Savox simply because mine blew apart. Since going to the Futaba im happy as larry, no issues, fast and bags of torque.

Fnially control wise i use a KO Propo Espritt 3. Admitidly though you can no longer buy these new (if you can well done for finding one) they are simply awesome kit. KO are still one of the best out there and i recommend them highly having used KO equipment for all in about 20 years of racing now (when i was a kid and when i came back as an adult). Alot seem to have switched to Sanwa though as they still offer sticks over steering wheel.

Hope that helps

[jo90]

posted twice :)

[Essexboyracer]

Some good advice from Jo90.

Personally, I got a durango 210 at the start of the year, and have been running it entirely as it came for 5 race meets. Only incident so far was I tapped our timing caravan with the rear wheel at speed, and it pulled the rear quarter off.

After finding all the parts that came off, she went back together fine, with just a small groove inside the rear arm holder (next to gearbox).

Since then she has had big landings, cartwheels, knocks e.t.c, and nothing has come off. Just make sure you threadlock where needed, or things may undo (front wheel, gearbox screws, shock nut! I've had personally.)

There are other good cars though, Associated B4 (though it's imperial and rear motor... can be converted to mid, and also seen them working well), Team C TM2 (looks fast, expecially on astro / smoother tracks), Kyosho RB6 and plenty of others.. as has been said before, see what gets used at the club, handy for tips + spares :)

Charger is up to you. I paid £40 for a G.T power charger, and my friend paid £20 for the pretty much same thing from China. Both work fine after 2 years. As long as it balances, and you can power it, it seems it's all good.

Batteries can be tricky. I had 2 demon power products batteries, which were £40 2 1/2 years ago but they wouldn't fit in my 210 :( I now run an ancient MuchMore 5500, which a friend gave me. Great battery. I've tried some really cheap chinese batteries which struggled to power my car, but it depends on luck really. I'm going to get some tunigy nanotech batteries next, they are cheap off ebay, and seem great value.

Speedo: Nothing but love for Hobbywing Xerun, but they are not as cheap as they were. The two 60A versions I have have powered all sorts, but one powered me to 2nd place in our 4wd club championship, powering a 6.5T LRP .. I had to get the gearing right though :)

Radiogear, The ~£180 sanwa stick set looks good, and a racing buddy just got one and loves it.

I also have a friend who converted his £40 sanwa gemini 2 to 2.4ghz using the FrSky system (see related thread in electronics section). The conversion was around £35, but he now has a rock solid system, with the bonus of £15 receivers.

I use an ugly Hitec Pro-Car, converted to FrSky 2.4, and love it. Didn't like the feel of the Futaba transmitters..

[brown4s]

entered by mistake

[Chop chop]

Hi

I have just got back into racing after nearly 15 years and like you say, so much has changed.

I went for a durango 210 and changed from rear motor to mid motor as I race at local track on astro. My brother and I went for the same and must admit, we are really impressed with the cars.

Agree with the comments as well worth going down local track to see what people are running. I have had to call on some help from the other durango owners :-)

[Stormmy]

I recently returned to the world of RC racing after a 12 year break. I was quite successful at 4wd offroad and touring cars so have had lots of experience.

My local club run's 2wd offroad so after much consideration I chose the Durango DEX210. I'm afraid my opinion of the Durango is very different to the previous posters. I find the car very difficult to drive, lots of under steer and poor steering response, now I accept that my driving style may well be the problem, being until now very much a 4wd specialist, but I have to say I very disappointed in the base setup of the car.

Far worse however is spare's availability, I lost in my last outing a suspension arm ball they finally came back into stock at the end of last week, a wait of almost a month, very poor.

Any advise on setup would be gratefully received since I really am struggling to get a handle of this car.

[mattr]

Any advise on setup would be gratefully received since I really am struggling to get a handle of this car.What are you driving on (Astro/dirt/mixed/small/large), which car did you get (RTR/Kit) and how did you build it? (RM3/MM4)

There are set ups for most types of track on the TD website, or on petitrc, or on here.

Might be worth starting another thread tho.........

[dicky14]

A good starter car would be a team C tc02c, cheap to run cheap to repair, rock solid and handles well, my car is very competetive and easy to drive. but as an earlier post suggests go to your local club and see what is being raced because there is nothing worse than having to go home during practice because you have an obscure car that no one else races:(

[morpheus2010]

Far worse however is spare's availability, I lost in my last outing a suspension arm ball they finally came back into stock at the end of last week, a wait of almost a month, very poor.

Any advise on setup would be gratefully received since I really am struggling to get a handle of this car.

MB Models (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/) always good for quick supply on-line - order early and got next days delivery at times. Good on the phone for queries as well.

The right tyres are important - Staggers or cut staggers are popular on Astro.

Try Under servo weight for a bit more front end grip.

See what others in your club setup and run :thumbsup:

[Stormmy]

Nobody had the part required, not MB Model's or even Durango themselves, back in stock now.

I race at Silverstone indoor, astro, medium size track. Do I need the extended chassis? Have I done wrong by running shorty batteries? Ball or gear diff?

Simple found the front end of the car very inaccurate, the TM2's and SV2's are both able to attack the track, the DEX210 simply can't, well mine can't :eh?: