Predator X11

[danielc3009]

:eh?:Hi
I've finished building a new predator kit but the ball joints are very stiff. The back suspension is ok but the front is seized. Does anybody know how to free off the ball joints? Also how do you stop the Lipo sliding around under the battery strap

[big_boss]

Hi
The best way to free the ball ends & bullets(the bigger ball ends) is to squeeze them with a pair of pliers while the metal ball is inserted in the plastic ball end.
Be carefull as the ball tends to shoot out at a fair rate of knots and could cause damage if it hits you in the eye(ouch). I slide a allen driver through the ball & hold the open end (the tip) with my fingers while squeezing the plastic with my other hand. Do this until the ball moves freely in the plastic.
The battery sliding around can be sorted in a number of ways : 1. I use a carbon fiber frame secured to the bottom of the frame with the battery posts so the battery has no option but to stay in the frame.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/images/XLR8_V2_LipoBrace_BIG.jpg
2.glue foam to the chassis to bracket the battery (on the main spine (under the main shaft) & on the other side as well). 3.make 2 U shaped brackets to fit over the battery from the top while ancored to the top battery brace.

[Mr Satchell]

Where is this battery frame from ?

[neil_p]

I used this one in my X11 when I had it. Very neat and looks like it should be part of the kit.

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/XLR8_LipoConversion.html

And used AE B44 posts and thumb screws.

[big_boss]

Yes, the one I have is from Diggity as well.

[big_boss]

Hi
Hey danielc3009 did you get these items in the kit :

1.Delrin spring platform washer # XD016
http://www.teamxtreme.co.uk/store/images/XD016.png

2.Alloy spring platform washer #XD017
http://www.teamxtreme.co.uk/store/images/XD017.png

[danielc3009]

No I didn't. I think they're for the standard shocks as the springs are a tight fit on the big
bore shocks. What oil do you use in the big bore shocks? Did you get alloy inner hinge pin blocks as mine are plastic. What's the best way to set the ball diffs and slipper clutch?

[big_boss]

OK thanks.
35wt.rear , 40wt. front but I did drill an extra hole in the pistons, now I have three holes in the rear and two holes in the front. Alloy hinge pin blocks are the way to go. mine came with the kit.
Diffs should be set tight as they should not slip under hard acceleration.
If you put two screw drivers into the outdrive slots of the diff and hold them so the diff is suspended (mid air)off the edge of your workbench,you should not be able to turn the crown gear (making the diff slip). that's a good and tight diff setting.The slipper should be set so it does not slip under hard acceleration but not too tight as you need it to absorb the brunt of the shock when the car lands a high jump and the throttle is at full or full brake. you want the slipper to slip before the diffs do.