Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

[Holeshot]

Team HB/HPI Racing's Ty Tessmann spotted testing the brand new HB D413. He’ll be racing it at the 1/10 Offroad Nationals in August and looking to continue his winning ways!
http://i40.tinypic.com/2me5y5z.jpg

[12-nitroman]

big squid stole your picture !!

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/teaser-hpihot-bodies-d413-4wd-10th-scale-buggy/

[KooBee]

big squid stole your picture !!

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/teaser-hpihot-bodies-d413-4wd-10th-scale-buggy/

The picture is from HPI facebook page and they mention that HPI/HB put up this teaser, so I wouldn't call it stealing. But I do dislike the fact that these sites put their own labels on the pics (like redrc and others do, too). It makes them look like the pics were their property and taken by them.

[Benh]

http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/08/08/hb-d413-leaked-photos/

It's looking quite different. I'm really interested to see how this goes at the worlds.

[Matt Butcher]

Looks interesting!

[suparajicon]

I`m looking forward for this! I hope Hot Bodies make a so great buggy as the D4! and with one way and shaft driven!:D

[Lazer zx-r]

More info now out on http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/08/10/hb-d413-details-revealed/

And Ty Tessmann just TQd og 1.st place in A-main with the car at 1/10 ROAR El. nats..

cant wait until xmas :)

[MikePimlott]

Motor, speedo and receiver all on one side, stick pack down the other ??

[Lazer zx-r]

I think there will be more pictures over the next few days..

some rumors has talked about a shortpack. But i think more will be out over the next days.

[mattr]

Motor, speedo and receiver all on one side, stick pack down the other ??Works well enough for TCs.

[bender]

from Neo Buggy:

"Where the drama begins is after the race when an unnamed manufacturer filed a protest on behalf of one of their drivers whom was not in the A-main. The protest involved whether or not Ty’s car met ROAR specifications for battery fitment. The rules claim that a chassis must be configured to accept either a full-size battery or a saddle-pack. It is rumored that Ty was using a shorty pack — which is legal, however, not if the chassis will only accept the length of a shorty pack.

Regardless of the validity of their concerns, the protest was thrown out due to it being illegal for a driver to protest a race that they weren’t in."

Seems odd that a protest is dismissed just because the protester wasnt in the same race. The car is either illegal or not, I dont see what anything else has to do with it.

Regardless, it wouldnt surprise me if the car does only fit shorties. The motor mount/ spur gear assembly is right in the middle of the car roughly - to get a full length stick lipo in there it would have to sit outside of the spur gear - that would be very wide off the central axis.

The only way round that seems to me to be either a shorty-only battery mounted at the back, or split saddle lipos mounted one on either side of the spur gear. Perhaps the fact that there seems to be no pictures of the battery side of the car is a hint as to its legality, or lack of.

[Robby]

Stupid/antiquated rule anyway.

If they were going to quibble over this anyway, they should have outlawed saddle packs 20-something years ago when they first came to prominence in pan cars - because these differed greatly in configuration to any stick pack that was being used by everyone else at the time.
And now, it's not like ANY of those cars that run saddle packs can even be made to fit any sort of normal (or even shorty) stick packs.

[Benh]

The only way round that seems to me to be either a shorty-only battery +1

BRCA only states the cells must be nominal voltage and within maximum dimension.

ROAR - As you say, must allow up to the maximum battery size to prevent a shorty-only chassis being made.
http://www.roarracing.com/?cat=26

Loop holes (literally) : -
Could provide two holes/slits in the chassis for tape. In the instructions,
"This chassis will accept 'stacked' saddles. It will be dog to drive, but it complies - now go and buy some shorties.."

[trekkerkk]

it will take a saddle pack battery

trekkker

[Lee24h]

Watch hpi get a file and file a slot for tape for a full size battery release a pick of a full size and then put a shorty in it job done

[Ralls Racing]

Either way I really can't wait to see it and some undershell shots to answer all these questions :drool:

[M.Andrews]

Any idea of price and release date?.

[Lazer zx-r]

I suspect there will be no more information about this. until after the worlds...

after a win at worlds, there is no better time to launch a car...
bet there wil be HPI/HB D413 "worlds edition"

[spenner]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wjQ2cSQU8EI&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DwjQ2cSQU8EI

[MHeadling]

Cheers for the link to the video, looks a great car and some very clever design on this new car, good job HB

The 4wd market has loads of good options, great to see for the consumer/class in general

[BentKa]

RedRC (http://events.redrc.net/2013/09/new-in-the-pits-pro-line/) have just published info and pictures of the new Pro-Line Racing Type R body Ty is running on his D413 at the Worlds:

http://events.redrc.net/2013/09/new-in-the-pits-pro-line/

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody2_zps7df571e3.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody4_zps67e3292c.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody9_zpsea1757d6.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody10_zpsaaa12edb.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody81_zps7a64d9ee.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/bent-ka/HB%20D413/ty4wdbody6_zps8efe0e6d.jpg

Bent

[BentKa]

;)

afHPhXQZlrQ

Bent

[jayropes]

Couldn't watch the vid. It's private apparently!!??

[Ralls Racing]

try the one above ya post ;)

[Leedsey]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[bender]

Looks even more impressive now that we can see underneath, and looks like they've beaten JQ to be the first manufacturer to put a centre diff back into an electric 1/10 buggy.

Pity tho that the interviewer doesn't realise that centre diffs in 4wd buggies were quite common back in the 80's ;)

[Hofvander]

No slipper clutch? Smooth throttle finger then.

[OneKiwi]

*oops

[Origineelreclamebord]

Slippers on a 4WD I'd say would mainly be for protecting the drivetrain, the forward traction is plentyful, and I'm not sure you notice a much smoother power output on a 4WD unless you'd put something the likes of a Losi Hydra Drive on there? (After all 4WDs are both driven agressively and built to do so by nature).

So if HB is confident about the strength of their drivetrain and electric motors, plus the capability to keep parts cool (particularly motor), why not? :)

[andys]

Looks interesting.

Designer guy wasn't very convincing in the vid though!

[madweazl]

Looks interesting.

Designer guy wasn't very convincing in the vid though!

Didnt have to be, the performance the car delivered spoke for itself.

[twisty]

Great looking buggy,i might have to have one.


:woot::thumbsup:

I thought the "late nite" improvised, "parking lot" interview was ok.


:D :D :D

[/tobys]

Just seen on rctech that they are going to miss the Nov release date :cry:

[450kid]

Anyone any closer to knowing release date or ideas on q price yet?

[Loheswaran]

Hot bodies/HPI always show pictures then spend an age getting a kit out. At least they tend to stay out for awhile though

[Lee24h]

I doubt it will work on very high grip astro as it will eat the drivetrain then the motor and then bang the designer said it works on 1/8th buggies but they have a clutch and the motors on electric 1/8th are alot bigger and stronger
Just add a slipper hb

[Origineelreclamebord]

I doubt it will work on very high grip astro as it will eat the drivetrain then the motor and then bang the designer said it works on 1/8th buggies but they have a clutch and the motors on electric 1/8th are alot bigger and stronger
Just add a slipper hb

It also works on SC trucks (such as the DESC410), right? :eh?: If so, I don't see the problem.

That said, it doesn't necessarily mean I think it's a wise choice to remove it. This car will really miss a slipper on low-bite (dusty) clay, even more so because it's shaft, not belt drive. However, I do like it that they've put a center diff in, it's about time someone did that with a 1/10 buggy again, I can imagine it will make a 4WD much smoother!

[5POINTSTAR]

Intriguing buggy to say the least!! I have a TRF201 and 501X beefed up to 511 standards, looking for a new 4WD and this could be it (I'm a Tamiya guy but the 502 seems outdated by the D413 [gear diffs/center diff etc]) since I run on hard clay/dirt tracks only. Don't wanna switch from TRF blue yet but this buggy is hot (no pun intented). I'm just a little worried about sourcing parts here in the Valley.

[bender]

It also works on SC trucks (such as the DESC410), right? :eh?: If so, I don't see the problem.

The DESC410 has a slipper clutch as well as a centre differential - best of both words... but, you are correct in saying that the car will miss having a slipper on a low grip bumpy track. It seems odd to me to go to the trouble in adding a much-needed centre diff to a modern 4wd then do away with the slipper.

On another forum the designer has said with a centre diff you dont need a slipper clutch- this is simply wrong and poor engineering. They fulfill totally different functions. Still, its better than nothing and in many other respects this looks like a very impressive buggy :thumbsup:

[Origineelreclamebord]

The DESC410 has a slipper clutch as well as a centre differential...

I checked the page again, and I can't understand why I have always overlooked that so far! :lol:

They've probably got the durability worries covered. Despite that, I can imagine we'll see a slipper for this car sooner or later: If it's not to protect the drivetrain for less skilled drivers (much like Xray's XB4 couldn't always handle what club drivers did to it), it will be because not all drivers have the same throttle control skills as Ty Tessmann (and are all over the place when the grip's not there) :p

[Darrin70]

The DESC410 has a slipper clutch as well as a centre differential - best of both words... but, you are correct in saying that the car will miss having a slipper on a low grip bumpy track. It seems odd to me to go to the trouble in adding a much-needed centre diff to a modern 4wd then do away with the slipper.

On another forum the designer has said with a centre diff you dont need a slipper clutch- this is simply wrong and poor engineering. They fulfill totally different functions. Still, its better than nothing and in many other respects this looks like a very impressive buggy :thumbsup:I think what he is saying is buy more complete center diffs and build with multiple weights.. Seems like a lot of work, unless they have a quick change mount like the Durango. I find these days a slipper in a 4wd buggy, is getting harder to keep consistent on the track with so much power being put down.. They need to improve on the materials used for pads..

[Fernandez]

where can I buy this car? what store carries the brand hotbodies? I have no clue.

[dMITIj]

T. Deguzman

The D413 is not canceled. It is now in the production process. The order was placed with the vendors during Thanksgiving week. From then it takes about 60-70 days to complete, then add shipping time. I myself am as angry as some of you at the delay. I worked my butt off to design this car, Ty drove his heart out to get good race results with this car then to have some colleagues drop the ball in getting this project into production is disappointing. For that we can only offer our apology. But I think once you have the car in your hands you'll be satisfied.

Still I don't want to put out another estimated date of arrival because I don't want to look like a jackass again.

from rctech

[Scouser]

T. Deguzman

The D413 is not canceled. It is now in the production process. The order was placed with the vendors during Thanksgiving week. From then it takes about 60-70 days to complete, then add shipping time. I myself am as angry as some of you at the delay. I worked my butt off to design this car, Ty drove his heart out to get good race results with this car then to have some colleagues drop the ball in getting this project into production is disappointing. For that we can only offer our apology. But I think once you have the car in your hands you'll be satisfied.

Still I don't want to put out another estimated date of arrival because I don't want to look like a jackass again.

from rctech

To be honest, in my opinion the car looks like it will be worth the wait. I loved the D4 so this is definitely top of my want list. It's not uncommon for there to be delays for a launch, making sure it is right when it hits the stores is more important than hitting a release deadline anyway. :thumbsup:

[neallewis]

surely it should be called the D414 now?

[Precision1]

I think what he is saying is buy more complete center diffs and build with multiple weights.. Seems like a lot of work, unless they have a quick change mount like the Durango. I find these days a slipper in a 4wd buggy, is getting harder to keep consistent on the track with so much power being put down.. They need to improve on the materials used for pads..


No slippers please! They are only good with low power applications and Traxxas vehicles. :thumbdown:
Learn how to tune with a center diff alone. Much more predictable and consistent.

One of the essential upgrades for DESC410 around here is an Exotek part that locks the slipper in center diff.

I don't know how you 1/10 guys work with slippers...:bored:

[bender]

No slippers please! They are only good with low power applications and Traxxas vehicles. :thumbdown:

Absolute rubbish! Sounds to me like your basing your opinion based on your own experience rather than looking at it from a world-wide perspective.

Learn how to tune with a center diff alone. Much more predictable and consistent.

You cant judge the predictability or consistency between a centre diff and a slipper because they are two entirely different devices that perform different functions. I could also say - "Learn how to tune with a slipper"

One of the essential upgrades for DESC410 around here is an Exotek part that locks the slipper in center diff.

Again, what works in your neck of the woods doesn't mean it will work everywhere. Should manufacturers design cars now specifically for your local track? I don't think so.

I don't know how you 1/10 guys work with slippers...:bored:

From this it sounds you come from 1/8 gas buggy (correct me if i am wrong). A gas car has in fact a slipper device installed, it's called the clutch, plus their engines don't produce maximum torque at minimum RPM like an electric motor, so a 1/10th style slipper clutch isn't needed.

1/8 electric buggy on the other, whilst being similar to 1/10, is also in a way much different. The cars still dont have the instant acceleration to match 1/10th, and all of these cars by default already include a centre diff help with power distribution. These cars inherently also drive much different due to chassis layout and front/rear tyre size, so it's not a fair comparison to assume a slipper is not required in 1/10th based on results of another class.

[Al3xis007]

^lol owned^
Good job bender

[Lee24h]

Without a slipper you will need alot of throttle control especailly on high grip as something in the drivetrain will need to slip
Either tyres, diff, driveshafts, and if the are all fixed ie gear diffs then the tyres will spin up creating less grip and if it dont prepare for motor trouble

[discostu]

Ha ha this make me chuckle slipper centre diff who give a toss if HB want to release car with centre diff so be it if it works in the club racers hands they would have seen a gap in the market and hit the nail if not they will look like muppets and either sell so very few kits or make an additional slipper part to replace the centre diff.

Thus car looks pretty trick and has some good ideas in it. I will look forward to beating them with the good old b44.2 lol

Stu :-)

[Muzzie]

It's all gone quiet on this, can’t find any news of a release date?

[mattr]

T. Deguzman

Still I don't want to put out another estimated date of arrival because I don't want to look like a jackass again.

from rctechfrom about 3 weeks ago.

I wouldn't expect any more news until mid/late Feb.

[V6Jim]

It's all gone quiet on this, can’t find any news of a release date?

Contacted HPI yesterday and Josh reckons it's going to be another couple of months yet.

AAAAARRRRGGGHHHH!

Jimmy

[traffman]

Going for one Jimmy? I really fancy one , but the yok looks good and the Losi.

To be honest the longer it takes to come out the better as im soo skint at the moment.

[neallewis]

D415? ;-)

[Richard Lowe]

It's looking more like D414.33 :p ;)

[V6Jim]

Going for one Jimmy? I really fancy one , but the yok looks good and the Losi.

To be honest the longer it takes to come out the better as im soo skint at the moment.

I'd love one. The Caster is proving to be a bit of a handful on Slippy surfaces, so until the new V4 shows up I thought about trying something else. I like the X-Ray too...

[neallewis]

It's looking more like D414.33 :p ;)

:thumbsup:

[rcpower]

If you like something else, why don't you try an Sworkz? You won't be disappointed!

I'd love one. The Caster is proving to be a bit of a handful on Slippy surfaces, so until the new V4 shows up I thought about trying something else. I like the X-Ray too...

[Muzzie]

Any news on price yet, I'm assuming around the £300 - 340????

Looks like Q1 2014

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/747790-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-67.html

[V6Jim]

Now looking like March/April and an indicated RRP of £370 - £400. Oh well, I don't think I can wait that long....

Jimmy

[Raphalite]

I spotted yesterday on Area52 some reports back from the 2014 Nuremburg toy fair. The HPI stand was proudly displaying Ty Tessmans actual D413 on the stand. Read into that as you will..

[traffman]

Agree with Jimmy , i cannot wait that long either. I'm sure its going to be good . But the cock up at HPI has certainly factored in my descision.

[V6Jim]

Pre -orders now active. RRP is set at £399, but expect deals at around £360. Should be in the shops by April.

Here we go....

Jimmy

[Muzzie]

Does anyone know if I can pre-order a shell for the D413 so I can get one painted ready for its arrival :thumbsup:

[trekkerkk]

car and spares all arriving in the same shipment:thumbsup:

trekkker

[Muzzie]

Is the shipment still expected for the end of March / April?

I was told by my local shop that HPI had sent an email with all the marketing blurb, to confirm this.

Are the kits on a slow boat to the UK?

[tyreman]

I was told by a team driver last weekend that they wouldn't be here for the first National,and it was looking more like the end of April. (take what you will from that as he said he should of had one back in September)

[Ralls Racing]

Is the shipment still expected for the end of March / April?

I was told by my local shop that HPI had sent an email with all the marketing blurb, to confirm this.

Are the kits on a slow boat to the UK?

hiya muzzie, after chatting to the guys at HPI Europe you are correct in your assumption of april as have been said previously. i know for a lot of us, as always this date cant come soon enough :thumbsup:

Nathan Ralls

[leeboy44]

Its a shame its taken so long!

I was well up for buying 1 but just couldnt wait any longer for a new toy so I bought the bmax 4 III

Ive been very happy with the new car so I wont be parting with my cash for this car now.

[Muzzie]

Any update? It must be near by now :bored:

Looks like I’m going to miss the first round of the 4wd regional’s :cry:

[Ralls Racing]

i will have a definate date by aprox tuesday for you ;)

[Ralls Racing]

well i did say tuesday lol the d413 has hit the uk with the distributor hpi europe so should be with shops in the next 48 hours if all goes to plan.

[Fernandez]

I hope I get the information soon from MB models to carry out the payment of my pre-order

[Muzzie]

Just paid for mine today, I brought it from MB models as there is limited numbers of kits available and HPI issue to shop -first come first serve. I think they had 6 kits allocated as they got an email from HPI as I was on the phone. Hopefully I should get mine on Friday. :thumbsup:

[Fernandez]

Yeah, I hope to receive mine in the next few days. I preordered right away about 6 weeks ago

[Muzzie]

Here's some build tips from the guy who design the car.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/747790-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-104.html

Accouring to the user manual the kit comes with 10,000 and 100,000 weight diff oils, with a base set-up of F10/C100/R10. I was thinking going lighter in the rear, either 7000 or 5000, what do you think? I know the HB team have tried 15/100/3?

[Muzzie]

Centre diff build tips

http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips/building-d413-diff.php

[Ralls Racing]

have had a couple of days testing now and wow the car is quick, heres a link to some early laps

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152045502666527&set=vb.610551526&type=2&theater

we have another test day on tuesday so will hopefully be able to post a starting setup before the first national

Nathan Ralls

[Fernandez]

hello nathan, do you think that the shock shafts could be a weak point in a crash ?

[Ralls Racing]

if our testing has been anything to go by then definatly not. the only thing we have done is to pop a shock top off the ball joint under the heaviest of impacts, 2 times over 2 days of testing by 3 drivers and in both cases would of totalled most cars

[Pinto]

Hi, i just receive and assemble the kit. Here's my first impressions:
-Really small box
-Great instruction sheet, really clear and simple
-Superb quality, equal to Xray. No cutting, no trimming, every parts are already cut and
-Superb carbon quality
-The car is really light in shorty
-The body is great with the concave sides but a little difficult to assemble

So really impress by this kit, 1st training on Wednesday on carpet

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/42c7eba5-4434-460f-8f3c-c6d74356653b.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/42c7eba5-4434-460f-8f3c-c6d74356653b.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/12b1c45a-7547-4035-86bc-32819c545ff2.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/12b1c45a-7547-4035-86bc-32819c545ff2.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/fe2fc7a1-8900-4e61-a5af-a9f2b1d809e7.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/fe2fc7a1-8900-4e61-a5af-a9f2b1d809e7.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/ddf1e459-6d06-4ac3-aafb-21e9e5fe1583.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/ddf1e459-6d06-4ac3-aafb-21e9e5fe1583.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/4fd6d43b-83d0-437d-af73-2850e0fbf492.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/4fd6d43b-83d0-437d-af73-2850e0fbf492.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/dff85ac1-950f-4624-87ab-f4eb6bf69f9d.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/dff85ac1-950f-4624-87ab-f4eb6bf69f9d.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/fe6bfb28-035d-41c1-b6df-934f5f54b1b7.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/fe6bfb28-035d-41c1-b6df-934f5f54b1b7.jpg)


Thanks MB Models!

[Fernandez]

I wonder if the speedo in the back would give some more weight in the rear for rear traction, when running om low bite surface

[OneKiwi]

That is one loverly piece of kit :drool:

[bally]

Hi, i just receive and assemble the kit. Here's my first impressions:
-Really small box
-Great instruction sheet, really clear and simple
-Superb quality, equal to Xray. No cutting, no trimming, every parts are already cut and
-Superb carbon quality
-The car is really light in shorty
-The body is great with the concave sides but a little difficult to assemble

So really impress by this kit, 1st training on Wednesday on carpet

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/42c7eba5-4434-460f-8f3c-c6d74356653b.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/42c7eba5-4434-460f-8f3c-c6d74356653b.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/12b1c45a-7547-4035-86bc-32819c545ff2.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/12b1c45a-7547-4035-86bc-32819c545ff2.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/fe2fc7a1-8900-4e61-a5af-a9f2b1d809e7.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/fe2fc7a1-8900-4e61-a5af-a9f2b1d809e7.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/ddf1e459-6d06-4ac3-aafb-21e9e5fe1583.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/ddf1e459-6d06-4ac3-aafb-21e9e5fe1583.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/4fd6d43b-83d0-437d-af73-2850e0fbf492.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/4fd6d43b-83d0-437d-af73-2850e0fbf492.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/dff85ac1-950f-4624-87ab-f4eb6bf69f9d.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/dff85ac1-950f-4624-87ab-f4eb6bf69f9d.jpg)

http://tof.canardpc.com/preview2/fe6bfb28-035d-41c1-b6df-934f5f54b1b7.jpg (http://tof.canardpc.com/view/fe6bfb28-035d-41c1-b6df-934f5f54b1b7.jpg)


Thanks MB Models!


Wow this has arrived in France and you have built it already, it was only shipped on Thursday!

[Pinto]

Yes just for the weekend, great service MB!

[brooksy]

Seen one of these running at Broxtowe today. Very nice piece of kit and to say it was the first run it looked really good.

[Balders]

oww thats pretty..

are there any still available or have they all sold out?

[leeboy44]

oww thats pretty..

are there any still available or have they all sold out?

mike dont you have enough cars LOL

dose look nice mind!

i was waiting for 1 of these but couldnt wait any longer so bought the bmax 4 iii

hers 1 for you mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Bodies-D413-4WD-Competition-Electric-Kit-112723-/360900378265?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item540756be99

[shaungooner]

never enough Mikey, like rocking horse muck I believe!!

[ramdrive]

JE has one in stock on there website:thumbsup:

I built one last week, nice easy build but plastic quality was not as good as xrays by a long way.

I sold it to a club member and ordered an XB4 2014...

[leeboy44]

never enough Mikey, like rocking horse muck I believe!!

he is now the new owner of the JE models kit lol

lucky man!!

[ramdrive]

1 still in stock as of 21:35 GMT...

http://www.jemodels.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=16516&category_id=1879

[Balders]

they must have more than one then.. :)

[Muzzie]

Here are my thoughts – Firstly, thanks to the guy’s at MB models for their amazing customer and delivery service. I received my package on Friday afternoon and was able track it all the way to my door. – Sad but true.

The kit was very easy to build and the instructions manual is very clear, especially as this was the first kit I’ve ever built, so if I can do it, anyone can.

One this of note, the kit requires a 1.3mm hex driver and a 4mm socket drive, which is something I didn’t have in my RC tool bag. I spent most of Friday night trying to get hold of these and eventually ended at Maplin £8.99 out of pocket.

The kit is very well engineered and has a precise build quality making the kit feel solid and robust. The only thing I found to be a bit fiddly was the shell as its in 3 pieces, but I think that was because I was getting a bit tired at that point. In my opinion (obvious I’m bias) compared to the X-Ray the plastic seems to be of the same quality, but that just me, only time will tell.

I ran the car the on Sunday at Broxtowe (out doors) and I have to say the car was amazing straight out of the box. The car was set as per the manual apart from some minor tweaks.

32.5 WT oil in the rear shocks instead of 37wt and
7000wt diff oil in the rear instead of 10 000wt
1.4mm roll bar on the front (black) instead of copper
1.2mm roll bar on the rear (copper) instead of silver

The car was really easy to drive and handled the wet condition great. I did struggle with grip roll at the end of the day as the track dried out.

Things I want to sort out – The front seems to have a lot of droop and there are no droop screws, so want to try some spacer in the shocks.

If anyone has a good Astro set-up and indoor carpet set-up, please share. I’m going to try the high grip setup on Ty Tessmann web page.

[Richard Lowe]

I'll have a general idea of a base setup after today at RHR.

Will post what I find out tonight :)

[Balders]

the shell that comes with the car isn't the shell that Ty uses, does anyone know if that shell will be available?

[Richard Lowe]

The shell Ty has used since the worlds is by Proline.

It's safe to say the car was well worth the wait! The way the lightweight shorty car fires out of corners is incredible, and it rotates/carries speed on hairpins like nothing I've ever driven.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_RHR201404/

[Muzzie]

Can I ask, did you use 3mm spacer in the shock to remove the droop?

Does the car feel better with the copper roll bar on the front? I ran the black on Sunday

[AfroP]

I was intrigued and somewhat interested by this car but whats putting me off is 2 things
1) I'm a fairly novice driver, club and regional level only and far from an A final driver at that. would this be too technical for me?

2) Most of my racing is done in sports halls on polished slippy wood floor or a mix of carpet and varnished floor. is this going to be too much for the surfaces?

other than that it looks a great bit of kit

[Balders]

Thanks Rich, have found out some more...

The shell is called "Type R" and will apparently be available at some point. :)

[Muzzie]

I was intrigued and somewhat interested by this car but whats putting me off is 2 things
1) I'm a fairly novice driver, club and regional level only and far from an A final driver at that. would this be too technical for me?

2) Most of my racing is done in sports halls on polished slippy wood floor or a mix of carpet and varnished floor. is this going to be too much for the surfaces?

other than that it looks a great bit of kit

For me, I think the car is really simple to set up and compaired to some its not techical at all. I only run at club and regional level and I'm miles away from an A final (one day may be), don't let that your a novice put you off. If you want to run 4wd you won't got far wrong and I would rather run 4wd on a varnised floor than 2wd. There are cheaper options out there (XB4, 410)but if your wallet can handle it buy one, I think it will be the car to have..:thumbsup:

[AfroP]

For me, I think the car is really simple to set up and compaired to some its not techical at all. I only run at club and regional level and I'm miles away from an A final (one day may be), don't let that your a novice put you off. If you want to run 4wd you won't got far wrong and I would rather run 4wd on a varnised floor than 2wd. There are cheaper options out there (XB4, 410)but if your wallet can handle it buy one, I think it will be the car to have..:thumbsup:

I had an XB4 and switched to a B44.2 as its easier to drive, setup and has far more support from fellow racers and parts at track side when something breaks.
I liked the XB4 it was quick, but it just felt like too much car for me. couldnt get my head round the inserts in the front and rear, and spares were more expensive than other brands.

[andys]

It's safe to say the car was well worth the wait!


Look forward to seeing it go Rich :)
Does look proper nice - did you not miss the slipper then at RHR?

How does the centre diff feel - still not sure what it's supposed to do in a 10th scale....

[Richard Lowe]

Can I ask, did you use 3mm spacer in the shock to remove the droop?

Does the car feel better with the copper roll bar on the front? I ran the black on Sunday
Yeah out of the box the car has the suspension travel of a 1/5th scale monster truck! I tried running it on kit setup but having so much droop made it roll and pitch a lot. The longer than usual shocks give you the option of limiting things exactly how you want as far as travel is concerned, I think a lot of people that run it will find a setup they like and stick with it but having the option of lots of droop if you've got a huge jump to land or something is still there.
One of the (many) things things that stood out driving it compared to my B44 was how little the chassis bottoms out. I could hit jumps and bumps at speeds that would have had the B44 slapping on the ground and double bouncing all over the place but it just took it no problem, even with the limited droop (it still has more than the 44 did).

I didn't play about with rollbars too much through the day, I just stuck with the kit copper/silver and changed other things as to me they felt about right. I know Nathan was messing about with different ones but ended up right back where I was, it felt more balanced and stable with the softer copper bar on the front.


Look forward to seeing it go Rich :)
Does look proper nice - did you not miss the slipper then at RHR?

How does the centre diff feel - still not sure what it's supposed to do in a 10th scale....
No slipper wasn't really an issue, the drivetrain seems pretty solid (I was intentionally landing on full throttle/brake trying to be really hard on it). It did wheelie on certain parts of the track, but my 44 would have wheelied just the same with the same power and the Durango diffs fitted. On the subject of the drivetrain it would be a good idea to leave a freshly built car running on the bench for a while, out of the box the bearings have quite a bit of thick grease in them so when you first run it can feel a little tight to the point of being a bit like a drag brake when you let off the throttle. Mine had all day running and it's still freeing up, Nathan's car had an extra day's worth of testing on it and it felt nice and free to drive.

You can really feel the centre diff working on hairpins and tighter parts of the track, the car seems to flow effortlessly round tight corners without scrubbing speed at all. Also unlike solid prop 4wd's you can brake really hard and late and still have steering instead of the fronts locking and ploughing straight on. I think it helps accelerating through bumps too - for anyone that's driven the new run onto the banking at RHR on the left hand side of the track the car was easily stable enough to be flat out right from jumping out of the bombhole by the stepup, all the way through the banked corner and to the end of the straight.

Initial impressions compared to other car's I've driven...
Rotates on hairpins like a DEX410
Forward drive and stability like a B44
Goes through bumps like a XX4
Zero understeer
Feels as agile and light on it's feet as a 2wd
Easily the fastest thing I've ever driven on initial acceleration out of corners

I've only run the shorty car so far, Niggs was switching all day but mostly running the saddle car. At the end of the day we put my setup on his shorty car and both agree that's what we'll be running at Kidderminster. The saddle layout was safer to drive but the extra agility of the shorty layout was better overall.

[Muzzie]

I ran the car indoors (carpet) for the first time on Wednesday and I have to say it was amazing. I’ve still got to sort the droop out but I just can’t believe how much quicker I was than normal. The car was so easy to drive and handled everything I threw at it. I even slammed it into a post after a cross over jump (because I was getting too cocky and started to drive like a sausage) and it didn’t even phase it.


A good comparison for me was, the 2 top drivers at my local clubs are always a couple of laps quicker than me and I was only 1 lap behind and nearly on the same lap. Everyone couldn’t believe how quick the car changed direction and that it was so planted.

Please don't buy one I want to win my first A final :p

[Gayo]

Gents, can we have some pics of your cars?
I feel like :drool:

[Muzzie]

Here's a pic of mine that I took last night, I'll take one with the shell off later.

You know you want one :thumbsup:

[Pedros20]

Mine came today! Feels & looks awesome! Can't wait to get some electrics in it & run it!

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/08A18906-57F2-4DF8-999F-063327FDD6A7_zpsc1d9k88a.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/08A18906-57F2-4DF8-999F-063327FDD6A7_zpsc1d9k88a.jpg.html)

[Ashalak]

Just a heads up for anyone on the hunt for one of these hen's teeth, BMM Racing has one on the shelf and available for purchase online :thumbsup:

[till]

comes there an undertray with the kit ?

[adam_u]

No undertray with the kit

[Muzzie]

This car is bullet proof, I slammed it really hard on Sunday and had no issues or breakages. I even had someone drive into the back of me, full speed while lining up to start racing (what a gentleman sausage) and it didn't break a thing. Most cars would have been in bits.

I've checked the car tonight and I've bent the rear wish bone bolt. If that's all its did after that, then happy days :thumbsup:.

I've used 3mm spacers in the front shocks to remove the droop giving a shock length of 22mm and I've ordered some HB red springs to give them a go. I'll post my indoor set-up on Thursday if anyone is interested.

[munity]

Anybody knows where i can get the x gear spring that ty use?

[/tobys]

Think x-gear are Kyosho?

[Origineelreclamebord]

These buggies really look great... and I love the bodyshell!

As such, I'd like to use the D413 body myself. Could someone measure the following things for me? :)

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/Varockshade/RSnl%20Forum%20-%20Overige/D413Measurements.jpg

Also, does the bodyshell parts come pre-cut or not?

[Pedros20]

Here's mine, just done a one coat wonder whilst my shell is at the painters.
Great looking car! Love it so far.

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/CB756F2D-E4D6-47BD-98A7-1834203C053E_zpsfukdqptl.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/CB756F2D-E4D6-47BD-98A7-1834203C053E_zpsfukdqptl.jpg.html)

[mrroy76]

Hi, i am getting my kit very soon and i wonder if there is some weak spots that hasnt been covered in this thread? What about the servo horn? Has someone fitted a aluminium horn or know if there is any horn that fits?

Hubs are they strong?

Regards
Roy

[Muzzie]

Tip - The only thing I’ve done is strip a spur gear as the motor mount vibrated loose. I’ve now used some lock tight on the motor screws. Just thought I’d share this to prevent anyone else stripping one.

[Richard Lowe]

Tip - The only thing I’ve done is strip a spur gear as the motor mount vibrated loose. I’ve now used some lock tight on the motor screws. Just thought I’d share this to prevent anyone else stripping one.
Have you got the little grub screw that screws into the clamp over the motor cam in?

When I built mine (same applied on the B44 motor clamp) I put the cam into the motor mount, screwed the clamp down on top of it, covered the little grub screw in threadlock (plenty) and screwed it in just until it stops. Then remove the clamp and screw the grubscrew in another half turn or so, so it's just proud on the inside of the clamp. That way when you tighten the clamp down the grubscrew bites into the cam a bit and stops it moving. It also pushes the clamp off the cam a touch in the middle and puts a bit of bend into it, so you've got the clamp tryng to spring back straight working to hold the motor still too.

Current setup update, as the first setup sheet I posted but with the following changes...
Front shocks - 2x1.6mm piston, 40w AE oil, same red springs.
Rear shocks - 2x1.7mm piston, 27.5 AE oil, blue springs, inner on the arm.
Diff oils - 7k front, 300k centre, 5k rear.

I'll get a proper setup sheet done after Southport in case it evolves much further :)

[adam_u]

Thanks for the update, Rich.

I see you've now gone very heavy on the centre diff oil, as I believe you had come right down to about 40k - was this after Kidderminster or have you been running elsewhere?

Maybe I will leave the 100k that I built it with in for it's first shakedown on Sunday...

[Richard Lowe]

Thanks for the update, Rich.

I see you've now gone very heavy on the centre diff oil, as I believe you had come right down to about 40k - was this after Kidderminster or have you been running elsewhere?

Maybe I will leave the 100k that I built it with in for it's first shakedown on Sunday...
The initial running we did with the car the thinner oil felt a bit better, however at Southport a couple of weeks ago when it rained and the grip went right down I could feel it making the car do strange things being so thin. I'd only ever run <100k up to that point so I thought I'd try the heaviest oil I had and it was instantly miles better, much more stable and consistent. Going thicker did slow down the low speed hairpin rotation a touch, but it was still better at this than any other car I've driven. I was worried going thicker would make it more prone to wheelies but it's actually pretty much the same as with the thinner oil which surprised me a bit.

The shock piston changes have made a big difference, the initial setup I posted for RHR had a bit too much pack for such a light car which was good on the smoother flowing RHR layout but come Kidderminster and Southport it made it a bit of a handful over the bumps.

[mes]

Richard,
did you drill the kit blank pistons or did you use e.g. Associated ones? I am very interested in this car although my driving style does not suit 4WD at all. :)

[Richard Lowe]

Drilled the blank pistons that come with the kit :)

AE pistons wouldn't fit, the HB pistons have a smaller hole for the shock shaft as they mount with a tiny locknut rather than e clips.

[mes]

I see, thank you! :)

[Pedros20]

Here's mine all wired up & ready to go.
Should be Wednesday, RHR or Mansfield depending on the weather.

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/09878F47-3EA2-4E93-A21E-C06EC06F4269_zpsbqpgrcmr.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/09878F47-3EA2-4E93-A21E-C06EC06F4269_zpsbqpgrcmr.jpg.html)

[mrroy76]

Hi, well im probably the first Norwegian driving the D413 and today where my first race with it. I have not had any time to practice with it because i came home from the US on friday and a friend of mine built it so it was ready when i came home. I have not drove any 4WD at all this year so i was also out of practice.

So i ran this setup http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_RHR201404/

Under the qualifying rounds i did a couple of changes due to traction roll and the rear felt kinda hard on the rear bumped up sometimes on minor bumps.

What i did to prevent the traction roll where moving the upper rear shock mounts one slot inward. I also had camber both rear and front to -2

For the rear shocks i switched to 25 losi oil. It got alot softer on the rear. The buggy runs really good but the driver where so out of shape compared to my 2WD driving.

Where i need to play some more is with the diffs. It also got a bit rainy and it then became very loose in the rear.

My impressions about the buggy so far is awesome.

In 7 heats i did not break a single part on this beast. So no doubt about the rigidity here. The only thing i noticed as a weakness was the pins that holds the wing in place. 2 times they popped out and 1 time the wing fell of.

I must say that i overjumped alot due to the power difference between 2WD and 4WD, and it bounced in all kinds of directions. slamming really hard sometimes.

My biggest worry is the shock caps. And the big opening in the front when it rains. Today i use some ductape to cover part of this opening from spinning water from the front tires when turning.

The surface we have is smooth high traction astro. really short grass. And we have some big jumps. I cant wait to get some more practice with this buggy.

Cheers
Roy

[Richard Lowe]

Hi Roy,

Try my current setup next time you run the car...

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_Southport20140504/

We've learned a lot since the first test day at RHR. The car's now much easier to drive and more plush over bumps, but still feels super light on it's feet and agile :)

Rich

[mrroy76]

Hi Roy,

Try my current setup next time you run the car...

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_Southport20140504/

We've learned a lot since the first test day at RHR. The car's now much easier to drive and more plush over bumps, but still feels super light on it's feet and agile :)

Rich

Thx, i have a order of springs comming here tomorrow. I will certainly try this setup and post my feedback on it. And my adjustments if there is any :)

By the way, you kept the same shock mount in rear, you dont get traction roll? Maybe your springs is softer then the originals?

You can see our track promo here to get a feel of the surface, especially after 1:40 you can see some short great rc action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64_9VO8A_lc

[Balders]

Anyone with a 413 going to be at the Oople race this weekend? :)

[Richard Lowe]

You can see our track promo here to get a feel of the surface, especially after 1:40 you can see some short great rc action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64_9VO8A_lc
From the video that doesn't look especially high traction, you should be fine with the Southport setup :)

The current thing I'm experimenting with is the front shock position on the tower. We moved it right to the inside hole when we were running the stiffer pistons during the first test and left it there, though after doing some more mileage I'm finding I prefer the standard middle hole as it supports the front of the car better in roll.

Next on the list is heavier front diff oil, I'm finding that I'm mostly dialling initial steering out and mid-exit steering in to the car. I'm now to the point where it's starting to get a little pushy on exit, going up to 10-15k in the front should get some of that exit steering back. Though I think that might make it a bit much for most people, I like a car with all the on power steering I can get (then some more :p)

[Muzzie]

I ran mine last night (Indoor) with 15K Front 100K cen and 5k rear and the car was great. All I had to do is let go of the power, turned in, then back on the power mid / exit of the corner. It was like a bullet out of a gun down the back straight. :thumbsup:

I still like the kit pisions (4 hole 1.3mm) the car changes direction really well.

[mrroy76]

From the video that doesn't look especially high traction, you should be fine with the Southport setup :)

The current thing I'm experimenting with is the front shock position on the tower. We moved it right to the inside hole when we were running the stiffer pistons during the first test and left it there, though after doing some more mileage I'm finding I prefer the standard middle hole as it supports the front of the car better in roll.

Next on the list is heavier front diff oil, I'm finding that I'm mostly dialling initial steering out and mid-exit steering in to the car. I'm now to the point where it's starting to get a little pushy on exit, going up to 10-15k in the front should get some of that exit steering back. Though I think that might make it a bit much for most people, I like a car with all the on power steering I can get (then some more :p)

Well its actually very high traction when its dry :) i have to cut 3 rows on each side for the front tyres and also have tyre glue after dremel has polished away the stubs after cutting. On scumacher mini pins yellow.

Im heading there tomorrow for some testing, the only thing ive done since last weekend is changing the front to 7k instead of 15k and center diff to 100k. Ig ot some other oils in the post office, like 300k so i pick them up tomorrow.

[mes]

Did you try some yellow Minispikes? All that cutting and dremelling must be annoying...:eh?:
At our NORC race in Langenfeld last year, grip was ultra-high. My son kept traction rolling with Minipins and Multibytes, but otherwise the car was dialed. Some slightly to (in the course of the weekend) well worn Minisipikes solved the problem, and the car was perfect! (B-Max4 with Jörn Neumann's Maritime set-up iirc)

[mrroy76]

Did you try some yellow Minispikes? All that cutting and dremelling must be annoying...:eh?:
At our NORC race in Langenfeld last year, grip was ultra-high. My son kept traction rolling with Minipins and Multibytes, but otherwise the car was dialed. Some slightly to (in the course of the weekend) well worn Minisipikes solved the problem, and the car was perfect! (B-Max4 with Jörn Neumann's Maritime set-up iirc)

We do race minispikes sometimes, but not when its at its highest traction. I dont know the length of our astro grass, but its really short, and with a few raindrops it gets slippery. So alot of us do run minispikes when the grass is starting to dry up. on wet its usually ballistic minispikes (green)

[Balders]

Had a first proper run outdoors over the weekend at the oOple event Mendip. Jimmy took a few photos of the car so hopefully he'll do a mini write up in his report.. :)

Rich, I was using your setup and it works very well on high grip however, I did REALLY miss a slipper clutch, being able to quickly make the adjustments to calm the car down as the grip changed through out the day would have helped. I was using speedo settings in the end calm things down but even that was a bit hit and miss.

Gearing up more was the next option but was running a 7.5 on 28t pinion and didn't have anything larger.


Anyone else missing the slipper clutch?

[Richard Lowe]

What are you using ESC wise, I can post my HPI Flux Pro settings if that's helpful?

I used to run the slipper in my B44 just loose enough to stop the plastic gears detonating, when I put Durango diffs in it I just cranked it all the way tight - so for me it's been one less thing to go wrong :lol:

What aspect needs calming down? :)

[Balders]

thanks Rich.

V3.1 Hobbywing so pretty much the same as a Flux i believe.

From memory as its not in front of me, it was set something like 1st punch 5 second 15, 4" boost 15 turbo after .5 full throttle.

I was struggling with my un-cat like reactions at times to get the power down smoothly and had a tendency to over cook on the tighter sections. With a slipper I feel i could have backed it off a little and smoothed out the power delivery which may have helped. I should have dropped to a slower motor like a 10.5 and pumped the boost up for the straight but didn't have one to hand.

other than that its a good car, I'm really enjoying it. :)

[mrroy76]

Hi. Yesterday i did some more testing had changed my diffs from 15 to 7k in front and from 40k to 100k all associated oils. Still 10k at rear.

I run it with a 5.5 turn engine and 24t pinion. The sun where shinning and we had really high traction. I experienced that the front wheels lifted from the grass . Why? Is this because of to thick center oil?

Well i did feel the new setup where a bit off, did not feel comfortable with it, the buggy is quite aggressive and i overjump alot. So im concidering a change from 5.5 to 6.5 to calm it down a bit. I`m really not sure what to try on the diffs, i see some of you guys run 300k in center, but wouldnt that give me more front wheel lift? I think im going to try 10 or 15 k at front again and 5 or 7k in the rear.

Im also wondering about the front end of the buggy, and the steering, it is alot of slack between alot of the parts even if the screws are at bottom. So i dont know if i need some thin spacers to get rid of the slack? Because we can really see the front wheels are a bit shacky.

[Richard Lowe]

I'll have to check what I'm running exactly on the ESC, I do remember I'm on 5 1st punchrate and 10 2nd with a 6.5. IMO 5.5 is too much motor for the car in shorty with it being so light, not that it can't handle it just it makes the car too fast and aggressive to be properly controllable through the infield.

Over the years we've all got used to our 4wd's getting heavier and heavier and cramming more and more motor in to make them fast enough. The 413 being so light doesn't need as much motor to be quick in a straight line. At Southport in the finals starting 10th, in each of the legs I was at least alongside the car in front half way down the straight and having to back off not to plough into the back of people :woot:

I run it with a 5.5 turn engine and 24t pinion. The sun where shinning and we had really high traction. I experienced that the front wheels lifted from the grass . Why? Is this because of to thick centre oil?
Too much motor ;)

The car is very light and shorter than most of the current 4wd's which makes it ideal for pulling wheelies! If it had a slipper and if it was set right (just loose enough to protect the drivetrain a bit) it wouldn't stop it wanting to pick the front wheels up. What you will find though is you're accelerating much faster than other cars, even if it doesn't feel like it.

I think most people will be happiest with a 7.5 or 8.5 with the car in shorty, it'll still be plenty fast enough and much more controllable than the 5's a 6's that are the norm. In my experience so far I'm 1 or 2 turns slower with the same electrics compared to what I ran in my B44, anyone that races at York indoors that has seen my car over the last few weeks with a 6.5 in compared to the 5.5 I used to run in the 44 will verify it's plenty fast enough :woot:

[mes]

In this case I'll probably put my 6.5 turn Gen2 Speed Passion back into the box and get the Vampire 7.5 V2 out of its coffin. ;)

[Fernandez]

what is everybody's thought about the massive amount of droop on the front.

I screwed the plastic cups on the front all the way in and put 3m limiters in the front shocks

[Balders]

3mm spacers inside the front and rear shocks help reduce the droop as you are right it is massive. :)

[mrroy76]

I saw that some of you gys used 300K oil in the center so i did find a shop that sold 300.000 What i didnt think about that there are different types of units so im wondering what this oil is compared to against associated as an example?

The oil is ultimate racing 300.000 cts. i found a converter that said this is the same as 8990 wt. But all my other oils are given in K

Roy

[mrroy76]

Hi this weekend i got some serious practice and racing. I changed the diffs to F:10K Center:30K R:10K

Rest of the setup i used this one http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_Southport20140504/

The track was of astro turf, high traction and a bit rough.

My experience was that it was really easy to drive, but in the cornering sections i couldnt push the buggy due to all weight where pushed to the outer front wheel. So it felt really soft. A other more experienced guy tested it and he also had the same conclusion that it was to soft in the front end and due to the shifting of weight towards the outer front wheel it was impossible to push the buggy enough in the corner sections.

Anyone have the same experience?

[focusmad]

Hi been having the same problem with the weight,lifting inner rear wheels and no corner entry steering the front springs are not up to the job have completely changed the car setup now I can push really hard into the corners with no wheels lifting or grip roll,at this point I can now drive the car to the edge witch makes it super fast even on the tight parts of the track.I will try to post the setup but not very good things like this,the setup is for high grip astro.
Chris Ellis

[spindles69]

Hello mate if you could put your set up on here that would be good. I have got my first race with car on high grip astro so your findings would be a benefit. Cheers

[sime46]

I have a question for everyone. Why is it that now there appears to be healthy stock of this car and spares that it's gone very quiet on here? I'd have thought when the second batch landed that people would be all over this and loads would be appearing trackside and on here. I was fancying one but am concerned with the parts supply from HB after talking to several team drivers who run the 1/8 car and can't get spares. Is this what's putting people off or something else? A mate of mine has one and it's a lovely car. I'm honestly not sure about it tho and having spent most of my racing life being first on the bandwagon, I'm holding off for a little while to see what happens with it. I suppose I should try to grab a few laps with one somewhere and make my mind up that way.

[shark]

Resistance is futile my friend ;)

[sime46]

Resistance is futile my friend ;)

You know me too well my friend. Lol

[Richard Lowe]

I wouldn't worry about parts, my car has had about a season's worth of running since I got it and hasn't had a single part replaced yet - nothing's broken or worn out.

Setup-wise it's ever evolving and we're still learning. I do think we could do with some stiffer front springs, as even the reds are only really medium stiffness and the car has the weight a bit more forward than the norm. I've tried to stick to the HB parts so we're using standard parts that people car get for the car.

I'll try my best to keep everyone updated with setups and the direction I'm going with it :)

[spindles69]

Will be using mine for the first time this Tuesday at HNMC.Have been chewing Nathan's earhole on set ups so to be on pace.Have got the 3rd round of the EOE regional next Sunday so need some track time with the car.Tyre choice is going to be a major factor next Sunday so will be trying a few combos.

[mrroy76]

Yeah that astro setup would be nice to get :)

I bought a pair of black losi front springs to try on astro.

Ill post some of my experience from the nordics this weekend. But not tonight, just came home.

[mrroy76]

One thing before i go to bed. Have you guys done something with the steering? Putting shims. Its very loose, so i can see the front tires moving all the time.

[Richard Lowe]

I've put some axle shims on the top of the rack over the top hat bushings, alternatively you can file/dremel the top the the bushings to bring them down to the level of the rack.

[Danny Harrison]

Im holding out till Rich tq's a round at nationals. No rush though, need to save :thumbsup:

[Richard Lowe]

Damn, no pressure then Danny!

[Danny Harrison]

Damn, no pressure then Danny!
Notice i said till as opposed to 'if' :woot:

[racingdwarf]

Will be using mine for the first time this Tuesday at HNMC.Have been chewing Nathan's earhole on set ups so to be on pace.Have got the 3rd round of the EOE regional next Sunday so need some track time with the car.Tyre choice is going to be a major factor next Sunday so will be trying a few combos.

will be making my way over to take a peek at that:thumbsup:

[mrroy76]

Chris Ellis i would really appriciate if you can post your setup for high grip astro either here or petit :)

[kdeleon]

I've put some axle shims on the top of the rack over the top hat bushings, alternatively you can file/dremel the top the the bushings to bring them down to the level of the rack.

Do you have a part number or measurements of the shim? I would like to add these to my car too? I prefer not to dremel it.

Thanks

[Richard Lowe]

Do you have a part number or measurements of the shim? I would like to add these to my car too? I prefer not to dremel it.

Thanks
They were just some thin axle shims I had around, chances are they are an AE part as they were floating round in my toolbox. Nitro clutch shims would do the job too :)

[kdeleon]

They were just some thin axle shims I had around, chances are they are an AE part as they were floating round in my toolbox. Nitro clutch shims would do the job too :)

Thanks, the probably an AE part helped. I found an axle shim kit from AE and it has a variety of different size shims. Hopefully one will fit.

[kdeleon]

In the US, some people are starting to report issues with stripping spur gears. Anyone with this car having the same issue? I know some of you even run 300K diff oil and on high traction carpet. So you might be putting even more stress on the spur. But curious as we want to try and figure out the root cause.

[Muzzie]

In the US, some people are starting to report issues with stripping spur gears. Anyone with this car having the same issue? I know some of you even run 300K diff oil and on high traction carpet. So you might be putting even more stress on the spur. But curious as we want to try and figure out the root cause.

The only thing I’ve done is strip a spur gear as the motor mount vibrated loose. I’ve now used some lock tight on the motor screws.

Tip from Richard Lowe - When I built mine (same applied on the B44 motor clamp) I put the cam into the motor mount, screwed the clamp down on top of it, covered the little grub screw in thread lock (plenty) and screwed it in just until it stops. Then remove the clamp and screw the grub screw in another half turn or so, so it's just proud on the inside of the clamp. That way when you tighten the clamp down the grub screw bites into the cam a bit and stops it moving. It also pushes the clamp off the cam a touch in the middle and puts a bit of bend into it, so you've got the clamp trying to spring back straight working to hold the motor still too.

[Balders]

Just noticed that HB are now offering different shock towers as option parts on their site. Anyone know anything about them?

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/112723/opt

[tomtom]

In-between positions compare to stock ones

[kdeleon]

Just noticed that HB are now offering different shock towers as option parts on their site. Anyone know anything about them?

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/112723/opt

Here is what Torrance, the designer, had to say about the different shock towers.

the front shock towers have two options. they're basically the same but the option tower offers 'in between' hole locations.

the rear tower is a little more complex... if you notice the rear arms have two shock mounting holes that are not inline - the outer one is inline with the plane of the arm while the inner one is underslung providing a 'gullwing' geometry. the 'A' rear tower is optimized for the outer shock mount on the arm while the 'C' rear tower is optimized for the inner shock mount. the kit is supplied with the 'B' tower which in between the A & C towers.

[Anibal Henriques]

Hi
Im searching to buy a D413 , anybody knows a store in europe with stock ?

[Fernandez]

what springs and piston/oil combination do you use for dry astro ?

[mrroy76]

You can try 1.2x4 or 1.3x4 in front and 55-65 oil with some stiff springs, like Losi black.

In the rear i would go for 1.3x4 or 1.4x4 and 40-45 oil and yellow springs

[Richard Lowe]

what springs and piston/oil combination do you use for dry astro ?
Have a check in the non-sticky 'Setups Sticky?' (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?p=867101#post867101) thread :lol:

Specifically http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=867101&postcount=7

:)

[OneKiwi]

Any for sale anywhere?

[sime46]

Kits are due very soon I'm told and another batch of spares too. I was told two deliveries in August. One landed last week. Next week would be my guess.

[spindles69]

I have been informed next batch of spares/kits are coming in On the 14th? :thumbsup:

[Richardson]

Spares are in on the 11th and 14th, and I believe the kits are the 22nd. I'll double check tomorrow though.

[spindles69]

Spares are in on the 11th and 14th, and I believe the kits are the 22nd. I'll double check tomorrow though.

Good news with the next round of my regionals on the 17th,hopefully the spares I am after on in this batch. Trouble is I can see if we do not get in early then someone could easily bulk buy all the spares at once.

[sime46]

What are you after boss? I got everything I wanted last week from PBM Racing.

[spindles69]

What are you after boss? I got everything I wanted last week from PBM Racing.

front standard shock tower and the front mount also.

[Richardson]

Kits are due in on the 12th, not the 22nd :thumbsup:

[sime46]

Ran mine at RHR Invernational this weekend. Car was really very good. I however was average at best. Loved driving the car on the superb clay track when the weather allowed. It's getting better as I understand more about what works and what doesn't. Thanks also must go to Rich Lowe who was happy to discuss the car and set ups.

[Pedros20]

I'll second that. Ran mine too, great car in tricky conditions, also ran it on Astro & was superb! Anyone thinking of buying this car should deffo get one.

[panch]

Ran mine at RHR Invernational this weekend. Car was really very good. I however was average at best. Loved driving the car on the superb clay track when the weather allowed. It's getting better as I understand more about what works and what doesn't. Thanks also must go to Rich Lowe who was happy to discuss the car and set ups.

Sime, could you post your clay final set up on the sticky thread, id be interested to see how you ran it.

[sime46]

No worries dude. When I get five mins I'll do a sheet for ya.

[sime46]

Sorry, not had chance to do a proper sheet. To save time, here's what I did.
Rich Lowes starting astro setup but, gold front spring, 35wt oil front. Rear as before. Diffs 5/100/3k oils. Roll bars removed both ends. Went up to 300k centre and got more drive out onto straight but not so predictable change of direction through the twistys. Ride height was 20mm. Also added a little toe out when the track cut up and got carpeted in places to help settle the transition between surfaces. Any questions just ask. :lol: just to be clear, the astro start point was Rich's July 14 starting setup.

[sime46]

Ran today on astro at Broxtowe. Med to high grip level. Car set as Rich's latest astro sheet except 5/300/3 diffs, 35wt front shocks, standard wishbones and no spacers in rear wheels. Car was mega even on worn out spikes it found the grip but didn't get tied in knots. Very easy to drive. Next time out I'll go stiffer front oil(shocks) and space the rears out a mm or so.

[mutoid]

I think Petes buggy was so glued to the track it ended up stopping there even after he went home,lol

[sime46]

That's the truth. Hilarious. He rang us saying he'd got home and unpacked the car but could find his 413!!! A quick call from the pub confirmed it was at the track still and Gord had grabbed it for safe keeping/eBay! Lol. Not often I've seen anyone leave the venue without their car.

[Rossi_14]

hello,

finally got my car. went together well with no issues. only thing is the drivetrain is a bit tight and i hope it frees up after a few batteries.
here are some pics of the car.

[leeboy44]

here is mine, still a few bits to do on it but nothing huge, hope you like

[sime46]

Looks sweet mate. You'll love it. If not, pm me. I could use a spare one. Lol

[leeboy44]

Looks sweet mate. You'll love it. If not, pm me. I could use a spare one. Lol

lol, i wont get to use it untill the first week in oct, then im away for 14nights in Jamaica so i wont get to do much till im back from my holiday

i noticed most are running the speedo at the front, i was going to try it this way first then move it about to see what it dose for me,

my driving style is not like most :blush: :lol:

im used to 8th racing so i chose this over the kyosho zx6 but last year when i was waiting for this to come out i bought the b-max4 III, that was a great car but i always wanted this 1

i really hope HPI sort the parts out soon, ive bought 2 sets of front wishbones from the US and i dont fancy the wait every time i bin it lol

anyway im looking forward to seeing some indoor set ups for me to compare to :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Rossi_14]

Hello,

i had the chance to drive my car today. i have to say the car is really reliable. i was on a 1/5th scale astroturf track with the jumps and bumps everybody expects from such a track. the car handled everything fine. had a few really bad crashes and from memory i would have repaired my old bj4 today a lot. the only thing that failed (after a hard landing) was the spur gear. new parts are ordered and i am looking forward to test the car indoors next friday.

[sime46]

Did the motor move or has something been through it? There are tips around for securing the motor a little better. I followed them from build and mines been perfect from day one.

[MaxBaker]

Did proline ever release the shock caps ty uses ?!

[Richard Lowe]

Hello,

i had the chance to drive my car today. i have to say the car is really reliable. i was on a 1/5th scale astroturf track with the jumps and bumps everybody expects from such a track. the car handled everything fine. had a few really bad crashes and from memory i would have repaired my old bj4 today a lot. the only thing that failed (after a hard landing) was the spur gear. new parts are ordered and i am looking forward to test the car indoors next friday.

Was the pinion in line with the spur, it looks like it was only running on half the spur?

Make sure the little grub screw in the motor clamp is sitting slightly proud, that way it digs into the motor cam slightly when you tighten the clamp down and definitely won't move ;)

[sime46]

Did proline ever release the shock caps ty uses ?!

The Proline caps were just a one-off for Ty. HB have produced some together with new shock stand-offs which are in production and will be available very soon. Tbh I've not had issues with the kit ones. I always remove the standoffs complete with the shocks to prevent weakening of the joints. It's working so far.

[focusmad]

Just been looking on the opinions list there are different shock towers can anyone tell me what the difference is between them and the standard ones
Chris

[Richard Lowe]

Just been looking on the opinions list there are different shock towers can anyone tell me what the difference is between them and the standard ones
Chris
The B front tower has 4 holes which are half way between the holes on the kit A tower, the inside hole on the B tower is half a hole further in than the inside on A, the second hole out is half way between the kit's inner and middle holes etc...

I'm currently running the B front tower on the inner/middle hole, I found with the kit tower the inside hole felt a bit soft and the middle a bit firm - the B tower gives a happy medium between the two and seems to work best for me. It's a pretty subtle change and I would think most people will like the kit middle hole best ;)


The two optional rear towers are optimised for the different holes in the wishbone. The A tower is narrower/taller and is intended for the inside hole on the arm, the C tower is wider and lower and is for the outer hole on the arm, the kit B tower is half way inbetween the two.

Personally I'm using the C tower with the outer hole on the arm in combination with the upper hole for the hingepin on the hub carrier. This gives you the familiar B4 style rear geometry we're all used to after all these years :)

[spindles69]

Did proline ever release the shock caps ty uses ?!

I have only had issues with the front shock caps and for this reason i went with the associated b5m shock caps and stand offs.http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q657/spindles69/20140915_173133_zpsfqpcosbh.jpg (http://s1352.photobucket.com/user/spindles69/media/20140915_173133_zpsfqpcosbh.jpg.html)They are a direct fit and i have not had a problem since.

[Rossi_14]

Hello,

i should have posted a picture of my motor mount as well.
yes richard the pinion was loose when i picked up the car and looked for the noise. should have checked more frequently. i did 8 batteries yesterday only checking the motor position as i was aware there is a issue with this. motor didn't move the whole day but as you can see the center diff was forced into the motor mount. i think combined with the moving pinion and the hard impact that caused the damage on the spur.
anyway i had a lot of fun with the car learned to check the pinion as well and now its time to find a suitable setup for this track. :thumbsup:

[Richard Lowe]

Mine has scratched the motor mount too, it's the centre diff screws just catching on the mount as things flex. There's not a lot we can do about it for the moment besides possibly removing a little bit of material from the mount as there's no room to shim the diff one way or the another.

Mine's been running fine like that from day one, I wouldn't worry about it :)

[leeboy44]

[QUOTE=Richard Lowe;876594]Mine has scratched the motor mount too, it's the centre diff screws just catching on the mount as things flex. There's not a lot we can do about it for the moment besides possibly removing a little bit of material from the mount as there's no room to shim the diff one way or the another.

ive not run mine yet but ive sunk the holes on the spur to take a washer and to sink the screws further so the heads wont hit the mount

this is until i can get to use the lathe in work and remove some alloy on the motor mount

:thumbsup:

[johan neyens]

The car has been out now for some time.

How are you finding the performance of the car on (high) grip astro.
Any points i have to look out for beside the spur/motor mount?

[mrroy76]

mine is also scratched. Last weekend we had our final race in the national cup here in Norway and we ran on dirt/gravel and my spur gear where raped by a small stone getting in on the underside of the spur gear. And the area is so tight. I solved this by putting 2 mm shims under the centerdiff mounts. It got me around 3mm clearing underneath it then,

Look at this video from the race. My buggy is nr 5 black and yellow. the beginning and last half of the heat shows my car alot. It was kinda slippery and it had rained and started raining

I had 300k in center on this and it worked perfect. 7,5turn motor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfVW947um0g&list=UUxfV1lgpCNu0n9sSXA8sKxg

[focusmad]

Hi guys,has anyone run a d413 indoors at Silverstone?Looking for a setup to run in a couple of weeks
Chris

[mes]

These kits have been around now for a while. Would you guys recommend it to someone who is used to Kyosho/Yokomo/VBC Racing quality and intends to run it on loose dirt? I am looking for a wheeler as a stand in until the VBC 4WD will be released. As I don't want the B44.3 due to its SAE hardware and Kyosho seems not to be a viable option in Germany at this time, it is probably either the D413 or the lightweight B-Max4III.

[Richard Lowe]

Hi guys,has anyone run a d413 indoors at Silverstone?Looking for a setup to run in a couple of weeks
Chris
Try the RHR national setup - http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodies/setupd413/D413_RichardLowe_RHR20140824/

You might want to add another couple of mm droop limiters all round and lower the ride height a couple of turns for Silverstone :)

[sime46]

Got the electrics fitted into my second D413 today. This one is setup in saddle layout. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to my shorty car. I can back to back them to compare. Anyone else tried their D413 in saddle configuration?

[dMITIj]

So what is nice spare parts to have right from the go?

And is there any hopups for the D413?

[Richard Lowe]

So what is nice spare parts to have right from the go?

And is there any hopups for the D413?

Hop up's - IMO the carbon arm inserts are pretty much essential, the B front tower and A/C rear towers are nice to have too.

As for spares I'd grab some of M3x20mm countersunk screws that bolt the arm mounts to the gearbox's as the front screw can bend if you hit something hard enough directly on the block. I've heard of the odd person breaking the 112713/112714 tower mounts, and one or two people have had the plastic shock tops pull off the top of the shocks.

Personally I've only bent a couple of the arm mount screws when I first got the car, other than that and having replaced worn front CVA bones I'm still on all the original parts for my car.

[/tobys]

I would agree with Rich, those front bolts are essential spares; I've not run mine much and have bent 2-3 aleady.

I would also recommend the B5 plastic shock caps and standoffs - and you might need to get a couple of packs as one of mine didn't fit right, regardless of which shock I screwed it onto, it didn't screw all the way on and eventually starts leaking oil. Some folks on rctech have commented the same. They are pretty cheap though so not too much of a hardship. You'll also need to 22-25mm bolts to secure these onto the shock tower. If you mount them screw first, nut at the back, it makes it easy to change position but more crucially, less likely to dig in on a roll and break something. You'll notice that Ty Tessman mounts his shocks using the same method.

CF arm plates again, necessary. Maybe not so much in very low grip but I think the plastic is a bit soft anyway and the CF does make a noticeable difference (for the better IMO).

On the subject of the arms being soft, one of my front ones has either prematurely worn or been pulled out of shape on the inner hingepin. I've contacted HPI (who have been very helpful in the past) but curious to hear if anyone else has experienced this.

I also put an alloy servo horn on as the kit servo saver looked like it would be a liability. As long as you have a strong metal geared servo, should be OK (famous last words)...

I've not tried the option towers yet so cannot comment on those.

HTH :thumbsup:

[dMITIj]

Hop up's - IMO the carbon arm inserts are pretty much essential, the B front tower and A/C rear towers are nice to have too.

As for spares I'd grab some of M3x20mm countersunk screws that bolt the arm mounts to the gearbox's as the front screw can bend if you hit something hard enough directly on the block. I've heard of the odd person breaking the 112713/112714 tower mounts, and one or two people have had the plastic shock tops pull off the top of the shocks.

Personally I've only bent a couple of the arm mount screws when I first got the car, other than that and having replaced worn front CVA bones I'm still on all the original parts for my car.

thank you, these things added to my wish list :)

Which brand oil do you guys use in the shocks and diff? and what springs?

[dMITIj]

I would agree with Rich, those front bolts are essential spares; I've not run mine much and have bent 2-3 aleady.

I would also recommend the B5 plastic shock caps and standoffs - and you might need to get a couple of packs as one of mine didn't fit right, regardless of which shock I screwed it onto, it didn't screw all the way on and eventually starts leaking oil. Some folks on rctech have commented the same. They are pretty cheap though so not too much of a hardship. You'll also need to 22-25mm bolts to secure these onto the shock tower. If you mount them screw first, nut at the back, it makes it easy to change position but more crucially, less likely to dig in on a roll and break something. You'll notice that Ty Tessman mounts his shocks using the same method.

CF arm plates again, necessary. Maybe not so much in very low grip but I think the plastic is a bit soft anyway and the CF does make a noticeable difference (for the better IMO).

On the subject of the arms being soft, one of my front ones has either prematurely worn or been pulled out of shape on the inner hingepin. I've contacted HPI (who have been very helpful in the past) but curious to hear if anyone else has experienced this.

I also put an alloy servo horn on as the kit servo saver looked like it would be a liability. As long as you have a strong metal geared servo, should be OK (famous last words)...

I've not tried the option towers yet so cannot comment on those.

HTH :thumbsup:

thank you, these things added to my wish list :)

what alloy servo horn will fit the D413 (i got an xpert rc servo)

[Rossi_14]

hello,

i am running mine with the standard plastic inserts in the wishbones. what difference does it make to use the carbon inserts.

breakage wise i only stripped a spur gear due to a not proper tightened pinion screw. thats all and i am running weekly indoors so hard obstacles there to hit.
but i am thinking about getting the shock tower standoffs as spare for peace of mind.

[Richard Lowe]

Servo horn; I use the Answer RC 25T on an Xpert servo, pro tip - remove the washer on the ballstud on the steering bellcrank to lower it down, then use the shorter ballstud hole on the servo horn. That way you get more steering resolution which will make the steering feel much more accurate. Also less strain on the servo as there's less mechanical advantage over if you smack into something.

Oils; Personally I swear by the Associated shock oil, it's the most consistent and least temperature sensitive oil I've used over the years so I've stuck with it.
As for diff oil I use the Core RC oils as they do the full range we need (going right up the the 300k goop we use in the centre diff) and are easy/cheap to get hold of.

Remember Re the shock tops there are more traditional style alloy caps coming from HPI/HB soon. They're being manufactured now AFAIK and should be here sooner rather than later (don't hold me to that though!).

[Richard Lowe]

hello,

i am running mine with the standard plastic inserts in the wishbones. what difference does it make to use the carbon inserts.

It makes the car more consistent and feel more accurate, they do give the impression of less traction though so it's a tradeoff. IMO the carbon are worth it as they make the car feel nicer to drive and I can live with (in fact prefer) the rear of the car moving around a bit.

Something I've not played with yet is having different arm covers on each end of the car to change the balance. Next time at Worksop I'm going to try plastic on the back with carbon in the front to see if it makes the rear feel a bit more locked in, as at the moment the car is REALLY close for me but a little more rear traction would make it perfect :)

[dMITIj]

Servo horn; I use the Answer RC 25T on an Xpert servo, pro tip - remove the washer on the ballstud on the steering bellcrank to lower it down, then use the shorter ballstud hole on the servo horn. That way you get more steering resolution which will make the steering feel much more accurate. Also less strain on the servo as there's less mechanical advantage over if you smack into something.

Oils; Personally I swear by the Associated shock oil, it's the most consistent and least temperature sensitive oil I've used over the years so I've stuck with it.
As for diff oil I use the Core RC oils as they do the full range we need (going right up the the 300k goop we use in the centre diff) and are easy/cheap to get hold of.

Remember Re the shock tops there are more traditional style alloy caps coming from HPI/HB soon. They're being manufactured now AFAIK and should be here sooner rather than later (don't hold me to that though!).

Thanks! :thumbsup:


is this the one:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/anssh0025-r-answer-rc-clamping-servo-horn-red-25t.html

It makes the car more consistent and feel more accurate, they do give the impression of less traction though so it's a tradeoff. IMO the carbon are worth it as they make the car feel nicer to drive and I can live with (in fact prefer) the rear of the car moving around a bit.

Something I've not played with yet is having different arm covers on each end of the car to change the balance. Next time at Worksop I'm going to try plastic on the back with carbon in the front to see if it makes the rear feel a bit more locked in, as at the moment the car is REALLY close for me but a little more rear traction would make it perfect :)


Could you post your setup? :)

[Rossi_14]

thanks Richard.

looks i need to get these things then.

[Richard Lowe]

is this the one:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/anssh0025-r-answer-rc-clamping-servo-horn-red-25t.html

This is the one I use - http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/ansshss25-b-answer-rc-small-straight-servo-horn-futaba-ace-savox-25t-black.html :)


Could you post your setup? :)
All my setups from now on (and the older one's when I get my butt in gear) are in the sticky thread at the top of the HB section - http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=879871&postcount=2. I'll pop the current setup (as used at Worksop R2) up in a little bit.

Rich ;)

[Muzzie]

I know a bit off topic, but I ran the D413 at West Bridgford last weekend and the car was amazing.

This got me thinking, would it be possible to some how lock the centre diff, remove the front drive shaft and run it as a 2wd.Has anyone got an idea of how this could be done?

I thought about using the Azarashi chassis conversion to narrow to front and design/ machine a new kick plate.

Xray have had a good result with the XB4 and I hear Durango is trying the 410 as a 2wd.

What do you reckcon ?

[Richard Lowe]

I'll be building a 2wd D413 when the D215 comes along, hopefully we'll get getting a plastic bolt on nose piece on the 2wd to make it a bit easier ;)

You could lock the diff up by filling one full of epoxy, obviously you're not going to be able to use it as a diff anymore :p

[dMITIj]

This is the one I use - http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/ansshss25-b-answer-rc-small-straight-servo-horn-futaba-ace-savox-25t-black.html :)



All my setups from now on (and the older one's when I get my butt in gear) are in the sticky thread at the top of the HB section - http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=879871&postcount=2. I'll pop the current setup (as used at Worksop R2) up in a little bit.

Rich ;)

is it just me ore didten't you upload the setup's yet? :woot:

[mrroy76]

I don`t know how many battery packs i have used with this awesome buggy this year but it`s ALOT. I have had one part breaking 3 times during all season. this one HPI-112773 Front Shock tower mount.

The thing is that all 3 times i would have been able to finnish the race.

A friend of mine bought the buggy also, and he has managed to do the same 1 time.

But this is seriously 80-100% speed crashes.

Look at the picture for reference.

[dMITIj]

What size drill bit to use for the shock cap when running emulsion style?

[/tobys]

Think I used 1.5 mm on mine...

[niggs98]

yeah a 1.5 is perfect in a hand held drill. not dremel or you will damage the threads

[Cosmo>RC10]

Got the electrics fitted into my second D413 today. This one is setup in saddle layout. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to my shorty car. I can back to back them to compare. Anyone else tried their D413 in saddle configuration?

I'd be interested to know the differences between using the saddle layout to the shorty layout to.

I use the saddle layout atm but im thinking of changing to shorty ti see what difference it makes.
Can anyone comment on this??

Also has anyone tried or comment on the avid chassi??

[Ralls Racing]

have now used the car extensively in both lay outs. personally i find it depends on layout and surface as to which i prefer. i find the shorty car far more agile, great on tight and twisty or low grip tracks. the saddle car is far smoother to drive so seems to suit more flowing tracks and high grip. the avid chassis adds a nice chunk of weight down low. so far i have only had one test day on damp astro with it. at that point it was a improvement in laptime and feel on a very bumpy astro surface. we will be testing shortly on dry astro indoors and i will be able to comment further at that point

Nathan Ralls

[/tobys]

have now used the car extensively in both lay outs. personally i find it depends on layout and surface as to which i prefer. i find the shorty car far more agile, great on tight and twisty or low grip tracks. the saddle car is far smoother to drive so seems to suit more flowing tracks and high grip. the avid chassis adds a nice chunk of weight down low. so far i have only had one test day on damp astro with it. at that point it was a improvement in laptime and feel on a very bumpy astro surface. we will be testing shortly on dry astro indoors and i will be able to comment further at that point

Nathan Ralls

Hi Nathan

Any more feedback on your experiences with the Avid chassis?

Thanks :)

[Ralls Racing]

hiya apologies for the delay

so far kyle and I have back to back tested the avid chassis on varoious astro from dry through to fully wet as well as on clay. we do find it a best of both worlds chassis and makes the car more consistent from surface to surface and in general seems to make the car smoother to drive whilst being able to carry more speed. a definite positive in our books. :thumbsup:

[MHeadling]

Cheers for the feedback Nathan, glad it works well!

My next job!

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/5ED412CA-3B59-43C4-83B1-59DA72F80C41.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/5ED412CA-3B59-43C4-83B1-59DA72F80C41.jpg.html)

[OneKiwi]

£60 extra to make a £360 buggy work isn't fun

[MHeadling]

It is fun for me with the prices I paid for my D413 and Avid chassis :p

[/tobys]

Threads been a bit quiet...any news or updates from the Team drivers?

[mrroy76]

Hi, i have been cleaning up my D413 the last day. I then figured out that i wanted to try and swap left and rear arm in the rear and get the shocks behind the tower. This seems like it`s working really nice.

Can`t wait to try it tomorrow. haven`t seen anyone tried this before.

I am also fixing my electric layout and strapping the cables. I had a real mess with the cables before.

I need to make a custom swayBar at the rear.

[mrroy76]

Significant improvement noticed in the rear on dump. Didnt feel any negative handling.

[rossiracer]

I really like my 4wd dies anyone no when a two wheel drive will be coming out or are they not going to bother thanx

[mrroy76]

Since i bought my D413 in May 2014 I have always tried to make the buggy stiffer in the front. And I have tried a bunch of stuff.

Some of the latest adjustments that has really improved the buggy is making a 2mm sway bar from 2mm rod. (tig welding rod) to put in the front. I also made a 1,6mm for the rear.

For the shocks i took the 4x1.2 original pistons and made 2x1.2 + 2x1.5 for the front with 60 Losi oil 3mm limiters. For the rear 2x1.2 + 2x1.6 and losi 32.5 oil and 2mm limiters. The rest of the setup is Richard Lowe`s setup from RHR

The shocks are amazing on smooth as well as rough/bumpy tracks. I always try to land a bit on the front wheels.

I posted a thread above here on moving the shocks to the rear of the tower. this really helps out if you have sharp bumps where you are acelerating. You will probably not feel/see any difference on other kinds of elements. But so far no negative handling on change of shocks position.

I ran the Nordics last weekend with this setup in Oslo, which is a high traction/rough track. And tonight i ran the exactly same setup at my home track which is very smooth/high traction and i set new lap records 5 times in one battery.

[Muzzie]

Does anyone have a good D413 base setup for Southport?

[rossiracer]

Hi does anyone no where or when there will be any front shock tower braces available please this is the only part u cannot buy anywhere and people call durango for spares any help would be grateful

[clemo]

wheelspin models have them in stock:thumbsup:

[panch]

Guys,

Just a Quick note to say I'm unfortunately calling it a day on racing but therefore have a shed load of Brand New In Packet Spares available at 50% of RRP

Details can be found here in the For Sale Section -

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170108

Also have 2 x D413 Kits and all the usual electronics, will list these as and when i get chance..

PM If you are interested in any of it.

Kind Regards

Lee

[discothesnake]

I finally got a decent of mine on Sunday. Had issues previously due to spur setting but swapped to Exotek unit and it feels much better.

Ran the car on grass and it felt awesome. Really pleased with it.