BMAX MR2

[jackeltrader]

Hi Guys,
I'm looking to get a new bmax2 in a couple of weeks and as I'm new to the brand just got a couple of questions if anyone can help that would be great!!

Just wondered if the car is good to go out of the box or if anyone thinks any upgrades are required? I will only be running on carpet and astro indoors with this particular car so high grip is all it will get used for.

Also what do you recommend or experience shown in terms of cell choice on high grip setups in mid motor config. Are saddles preferred or are people using shorties to move the weight around to suit track conditions? I have saddles already but need to replace soon anyway, just want to get the best out of the car - not fussed about the cost. I presume saddles are heavier so would this be better than a smaller lighter shorty in high traction?

Any help at all about this car would be brilliant and greatly received!!
Many thanks,
Craig

[DrPaul]

Out of the box the car is excellent, some drivers have had issues with idler gears but Yokomo now make an aliminium option so nothing to worry about.

Check out set ups at
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax2MR.html

Plenty of good set ups for both carpet and astro.

Most prople seem to be using saddles but shorty lipos give you the weight option.

There is a new aliminium chassis which in theory will be better on high grip tracks but everyone is still waiting on feedback as this is brand new and mostly untested, saying that the kit plastic chassis is excellent.

The Cream front weight is popular.

[cryer-evo]

+1 top car :thumbsup:

[ReneT]

BMAX2 MR is almost perfect.

Almost? Yes, the ...wait for it... wheelnuts aren't very good. They come loose quite fast. I invested one Euro to upgrade to some serated ones.

Raced the aluminium chassis last weekend for the first time, liked it, but to soon to say ít's a must have.

[CARB]

BMAX2 MR is almost perfect.

Almost? Yes, the ...wait for it... wheelnuts aren't very good. They come loose quite fast. I invested one Euro to upgrade to some serated ones.

Raced the aluminium chassis last weekend for the first time, liked it, but to soon to say ít's a must have.

might as well buy the Durango 210 if it needs a chassis, I had one sold it and kept the 210

[DrPaul]

It does not need the metal chassis option, I'm just saying there now is the option if you want it. Everyone has been running the Bmax2MR with the plastic chassis for 8 months now with great success. The plastic chassis gives you more flex which equals more grip. The car out of the box is excellent and does not need any hop ups plus its rock solid Yokomo build quality.

[AfroP]

Out the box the car is great.
Wheel nuts are essential. And maybe some stiffer front springs.

[dpackster1980]

Excellent car, idler gears should last. I suspect the reason why people have had failures is due to people not taking note of the slipper setting in the manual.

Stiffer front springs is a must but that's it.

[neallewis]

My car is box stock apart from ceramic diff balls (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/zd-505cd-ceramic-3-32-precision-differential-ball-12pcs.html), as I killed my diff first time out having a slipper too tight, and ali rear hubs (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/bm-415r0-aluminum-rear-hub-carrier-0.html), which were a bling addon, not really needed. Never had an issue with the idler gear, still on my kit one, after months of use. I did swap the rear wheel nuts to serrated type, only as I'd heard of issues with the kit lock nuts, and had the serrated ones in my box. The car is fantastic out the box.
A few have replaced the shock shafts with the harder titanium (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-s2l-rear-x-ver-ii-shock-shaft.html) ones, but I've had no problem bending mine. I replaced the kit front springs with AE red big bore springs (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/team-associated/b4-1/12mm-front-spring-red-3-90-lb.html), as I felt the car was better with these. Kept going back to the kit (blue) rear springs after trying lots of others.
I also used the associated fit front axles (http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-010fi-associated-front-wheel-axle-1-16.html) so I could make use of my stock of B4.1/centro wheels.
It's a really good car in both mid and rear motor. It's also pretty bullet proof. I've not broken anything on it (other than the original diff plates/balls) on first assembly because the spur gear was too tight on the shaft, so the slipper didn't slip.

[Wacker 3]

The BMax 2 MR is a great car out of the box, builds well and handles great. as far as parts required for the car the only parts i have added is titanium turnbuckles, the conversion for ae wheels and the stiffer front springs.

As far as spare parts would go i would carry a spare idler gear unless you have the new metal ones, wishbones, spur gear and hubs as the cars are very robust.

[jackeltrader]

Thanks for all the advice guys - cant wait to get & run the car....sounds brilliant ;)
Cheers!!

[200sx]

I've been extremely impressed with my bmax2. I used to run a team c and difference in quality is night and day. You can certainly tell it's made in Japan. While everyone is dealing with breakages my buggy soldiers on

[mes]

That's why I wasn't last in any heat at the last meeting I attended: My driving was utter crap, but there was always at least one Durango or Team C that failed! :lol:

[dpackster1980]

might as well buy the Durango 210 if it needs a chassis, I had one sold it and kept the 210

That's a bit of a pointless comment, you could say the same thing about a H2, Kyosho RB6, new Tamiya 2wd and the Losi 22 as they all have alloy main chassis with plastic side pods. :thumbdown:

[smokes]

BMAX2 MR is almost perfect.

Almost? Yes, the ...wait for it... wheelnuts aren't very good. They come loose quite fast. I invested one Euro to upgrade to some serated ones.

Raced the aluminium chassis last weekend for the first time, liked it, but to soon to say ít's a must have.

How did you find the alloy chassis did it reduce the steering due to it being heavier and stiffer and make is more stable over the jumps it about 75 grams heavier than the plastic version

[cryer-evo]

I have driven lots of different cars rb6 / dex210/ losi 22 and more and the bmax2 is the easiest car to drive fast for me love it . As for hop ups rear serrated wheel nuts is a must . I have managed to brake 2 sets of idler gears but as peaple have sed it's probably Cus I don't run with any slip in my slipper as I just don't like my slippers to slip the car is very very strong as strong as a losi 22 and much stronger than all the rest I run mostly on hi grip astro / carpet I run losi pink rear and losi orange front springs