DEX210 chassis ????

[slippy]

Hi all. I have a DEX210 RTR and am interested in changing the chassis to alloy as when I had RM config it was fine but since changing to MM adding weight losing bracing and changing things to suit me the chassis now flex,s between the battery and the motor to a level I,m not happy with. Now the part no. for the chassis in the RTR manual according to Durango,s site does not exist.
So.

Which chassis does my rtr have ?

Which alloy chassis would be a direct replacement ?

Do you know of a better choice ?

Would changing to alloy be beneficial ?

Cheers.

Dave.

[AfroP]

the rtr as far as I'm aware comes with the original dimec chassis which Durango did away with as it was weak and broke lots.
It's +8mm longer than the standard alloy chassis that comes in the kit version of the 210

the only direct replacement would be the Dimec 20 Spec B which is also a plastic chassis but with less flex.
The Spec B correct the weakness from the original dimec and dimec 20 but requires additional spec B parts such as the front bulkhead and rear toe blocks.

There is a +11 alloy chassis from RDRP but your looking at a cost of roughly £90 for that

[ekt]

Hi all. I have a DEX210 RTR and am interested in changing the chassis to alloy as when I had RM config it was fine but since changing to MM adding weight losing bracing and changing things to suit me the chassis now flex,s between the battery and the motor to a level I,m not happy with. Now the part no. for the chassis in the RTR manual according to Durango,s site does not exist.
So.

Which chassis does my rtr have ?

Which alloy chassis would be a direct replacement ?

Do you know of a better choice ?

Would changing to alloy be beneficial ?

Cheers.

Dave.

As AfroP said, the RTR comes with the old DIMEC chassis, it is 8mm longer than TD's aluminium chassis.
Currently there are no +8mm alloy chassis, only +10 from Tresrey and +11 from RDRP. Here's a list of the current chassis offerings http://durangofansite.com/DEX210aftermarket.php#chassis
Changing to an alloy chassis would reduce the flex, which is generally what people are after for high grip situations.

[jo90]

The above is correct, except there is a +8mm chassis out there which I currently use from CRC.

The Tresrey and RDRP products are very well made also, so really it's a question of money, and what you want to pay for.

[kartstuffer]

There is also the 8racing carbon + 8 chassis , but for any of these you will also need the plastic side pods as well.

[slippy]

Ok lads some great info there. The machined alloy ones are all expensive but when I think back to the upgrades I paid for on my RJX50 nitro heli by comparison its not bad for what you get so after all that info I think its going to be the RDRP or carbon and as I already have some rdrp stuff on my car I,m edging that way.

Thanks everyone.

Dave.

[Lee24h]

You need the side pods if you buy a standard alloy chassis
the standard alloy is the best for now

[NeilRalph77]

What i'd like is a standard length carbon one! The exotec ones nice with the alloy kick up but +8:thumbdown:, and what's all this LRC about?

[jkclifford]

I have a few +8 aluminium chassis left.
details are on here in,the TD section.

[av4625]

i read above that you had to change the front bulkhead for the spec B Dimec 20 chassis? Will my cream brass bulkhead fit and will any of the aftermarket RF antisquat blocks fit?

[AfroP]

Yep a new front bulkhead is needed. Doubt the cream one will fit. I had the tresrey and it didn't fit

[ekt]

i read above that you had to change the front bulkhead for the spec B Dimec 20 chassis? Will my cream brass bulkhead fit and will any of the aftermarket RF antisquat blocks fit?

The current line of aftermarket bulkheads wont fit. RF holders will fit though :thumbsup:

[Cream]

i read above that you had to change the front bulkhead for the spec B Dimec 20 chassis? Will my cream brass bulkhead fit and will any of the aftermarket RF antisquat blocks fit?

No the Cream bulkhead won't fit the new chassis. Looks like a redesign is required. :)

[dex210Nick]

I did this for about $20 worth of FRP. It's +8mm, light, and very rigid. It gets the weight exactly where it needs to be. If you've got a drill, dremel, and patience, it's definitely worth a shot. You'll need to cut off the front end of your current chassis to get the kick up, but if you're going to replace it anyway why not try to make something useful out of it?

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i80/mutant_guitar/null_zpsb387fb15.jpg (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/mutant_guitar/media/null_zpsb387fb15.jpg.html)

[Loheswaran]

I have a few +8 aluminium chassis left.
details are on here in,the TD section.

This is a really good chassis. Much better VFM than the other ones out there. Yes RDRP and TRESRAY have some mega fancy machining, but a quick look at Jorn Neumanns chassis will reveal something far closer to the original chassis - bit like this one.

A nice touch is that the lengthening is at the rear - you can fiddle around with flex on it as well.

I recall James, who makes the chassis, telling me that the lengthening of the chassis helps to shift the weight back on the car without making it twitchy. The car, IMHO, just simply sits better at the back, and does not have that annoying mid-corner twitch than the shorter chassis - I say this in the view of a novice/amateur.