Sensor board problem?

[Chop chop]

Have been racing tonight and every time about half way through the race, the car stuttered Bad and ended up getting to the stage where the throttle did not work at all.

Motor is new sp 7.5 and a helpful chap at the club thought it could be the sensor board on the motor. I tried a standard 13.5 motor for the next raced had no issues.

Anyone else experienced this ?

[Cremegg]

Yeah I have as well but I don't think it was the sensor board ( i was running sp 6.5)

I knew this cause I swapped the sensor boards out and still had the same problems

I would either send it back to schumacher to see what they say or buy a new sensor board

Does the car work from a standstill or do you have to push the car a little for it to work?

Thanks

[bodgit]

Before you send it back have a read of this. The last post may be the same cause of your problem.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63922

[MrShaun]

Has it had any water to it? That can damage the sensor board badly.

Take the sensor lead out and make sure there is no damage to it at all and that after using the car it is cold. Have seen some go wrong and get hot.

Is there any PC software you can connect to the computer to diagnose whats going on?

[Chop chop]

Thanks for your replies all. Really annoying when racing as didn't finish a race :-( and not sure what to do

I got motor second hand so no idea if it has had water near it. I only run indoor astro. Car seems to run for a while as normal then I noticed despite me using throttle, it would judder really bad and make a real grinding sound. It gets to the stage that it just doesn't respond when I use the throttle.

When it doesn't move, I haven't tried pushing a little so will give that a try.

When the throttle wasn't responding at the end of the race, I changed the sensor cable as a test but still happened. I then immediately plugged into my other speed passion motor and it worked straight away.

As I say, I put my 13.5 motor back in for a test and ran for 5 mins with no problem although I need to give it a longer try

[Chalkie]

Hi, I was helping you with your car last night, the issue with your car is definitely with the motor or possibly the connections on it as changing the motor seemed to cure it straight away. Probably the best way to confirm it before spending anymore money would be to see if you can borrow another 7.5 - 8.5 speed passion motor off someone for a heat or two.

[cutting42]

I had a similar problem with a motor after it had been overheated. It ran fine for a couple of meetings and then one meeting it did exactly what your did.

I took it apart and one of the poles had partially desoldered so it would work until it got warm and then would be unreliable, not starting and occasionally stuttering and running half power.

Resoldering the internal wiring fixed it and it has been fine ever since.

Edit: Another point, if your esc can run a sensorless motor, disconnect the sensor cable and see if it runs properly. If it does run then its the sensor at fault if it is still behaving badly then the sensor is fine.

[Cremegg]

I had a similar problem with a motor after it had been overheated. It ran fine for a couple of meetings and then one meeting it did exactly what your did.

I took it apart and one of the poles had partially desoldered so it would work until it got warm and then would be unreliable, not starting and occasionally stuttering and running half power.

Resoldering the internal wiring fixed it and it has been fine ever since.

Edit: Another point, if your esc can run a sensorless motor, disconnect the sensor cable and see if it runs properly. If it does run then its the sensor at fault if it is still behaving badly then the sensor is fine.

Hi, can I ask how you soldered the pole back on? I have a sp 6.5 with the same problem

I've taken the endbell off and taken off the rubber seal, sensor board and taken the rotor out but can't get to the joints

Thanks

[cutting42]

It was an LRP X12 motor so possibly different construction but with the LRP there are three long bolts running the length of the motor and 2/3rds of the casing comes off the front allowing access to the soldered joints.


http://www.rcmart.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/lrp-x12-motor.jpg