3Racing Cactus Build

[DJR2096]

Well guys & gels, My 3Racing Cactus is here from RC Mart & I think I'll do a build thread to go along with it http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif!
I looked at many. many kits for a 1/10 2WD buggy: Intech, Team Durango, Team C, Atomic & so on for my first new build of a 1/10 buggy since 1989!
http://imageshack.us/a/img593/2484/ehkd.jpg
Its a great bit of kit for the money, & I was surprised with the quality of the kit parts! It even comes with a set of AKA tyres too http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif
I'll be running the HPI Flux Pro ESC & Motor in it (Thanks to Adrenaline models for that), Spektrum SR3100 receiver & a Power HD 1206TG sevo in the front for steering!
And so on with the build we go http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/hahadance.gif
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/9706/y95u.jpg
Bag 1 is always a good place to start!

http://imageshack.us/a/img15/9303/ckn4.jpg
Chassis, front end, rear pin holders & steering bits!

http://imageshack.us/a/img69/2474/eas6.jpg
Yep nice set of bearing with the kit!
Now is that what I think it is?

http://imageshack.us/a/img33/9492/myks.jpg
Yes it is http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/angrymad.gif!
Kit come with anodised pink parts. As nice as the anodising is................it's gotta go. off to the caustic soda it is!
I hate pink or purple anodising!

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/1969/18x8.jpg
Da composite main chassis! All nice & clean out of the box!

http://imageshack.us/a/img593/987/mtcj.jpg
Bet the bottom of it won't look like that soon!

http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6549/nv0p.jpg
Front end of the chassis is held on with 4x M3 lock nuts & 4x M3x8 flat head screws.

http://imageshack.us/a/img692/4977/zxjy.jpg
Screws secure from the bottom.

http://imageshack.us/a/img189/3371/swj6.jpg
10 mins & some caustic soda later & that rubbish pink is gone. Hurrah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/topbanana.gif
http://imageshack.us/a/img28/4558/fn1k.jpg
You only want the larger of the alli parts, 4x M3x8 scres & a 0.5mm & 1.0mm suspension mount RF spacers.
The RF spacers sit under the pin holder.

http://imageshack.us/a/img30/4646/7awt.jpg
And screw in to the allow from the bottom. As it's metal to metal I used a little blue threadlock just to be safe.

http://imageshack.us/a/img853/6052/5w4u.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/9476/ec07.jpg
And there we have the chassis up to now!

http://imageshack.us/a/img41/2470/c9no.jpg
Time to start getting the steering rack build.
These parts came on a tree. So snip them off & give em a trim with a knife & start the build with screwing in the 4.8 ball studs.

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/8476/qli5.jpg
Just like that!

http://imageshack.us/a/img24/9955/8gma.jpg
& one ball stud in the left steering arm & push the M5x8x2.5 bearing in both the left & right steering arms.

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3235/3q89.jpg
Place a 3.02 shim on one of the M3x12. Do two of these!

http://imageshack.us/a/img18/1050/58dn.jpg
Place two M5.7x5.5 bushings in the steering link. One in each side of the.

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/7016/07kg.jpg
Push ya screws through aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand..........

http://imageshack.us/a/img809/6538/0i01.jpg
Screw down you steering arms to the link! Job done!!


http://imageshack.us/a/img36/3703/1wra.jpg
Now to mount it to the steering to the chassis using two M3.18 button head screws, two M5.02 shims & two M8.9.2 steering posts.

http://imageshack.us/a/img266/2757/uu53.jpg
posts, shims & screw go like that!

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/2496/vfoh.jpg
And you should end up with it looking like that.
Check for binding & unscrew until till its gone!

[DJR2096]

Felix Law ran a Cactus with Losi shocks at the 2013 worlds.
http://imageshack.us/a/img10/5695/gub3.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6461/q5g1.jpg

On with the build we go!
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/6263/28gf.jpg
Hinge pins, front arms, pin carrier & lower suspension mount red to go. Do a little sanding on the arms to get them to fall under
their own weight.

http://imageshack.us/a/img842/6169/fvys.jpg
Push in the pins.

http://imageshack.us/a/img837/4286/2dol.jpg
And secure the front pin carrier with two 2.6x6 countersunk screws.

http://imageshack.us/a/img199/5162/fj6l.jpg
Front bumper and screws ready to bolt the front arms to the chassis.

http://imageshack.us/a/img541/9485/t805.jpg
Place the front suspension assembly on to the chassis & screw the bulkhead down ion place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/9751/72cc.jpg
Rear M3x16s in first

http://imageshack.us/a/img89/1210/jyp3.jpg
Then secure the bumper to the front end with the last two M3x16 screws.

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/7093/ick6.jpg
Bag two here we go! looing for the front shock mount!

http://imageshack.us/a/img545/4933/v30h.jpg
There it is. Ready for attachment.

http://imageshack.us/a/img17/3125/a7aw.jpg
A little more de-anodising on the M3x10x1.5 spacers. Slip them over the two 4.8x7 ball studs.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/5152/73bs.jpg
And screw into place. I'm going with stock settings for a starting point!

http://imageshack.us/a/img24/6083/09q9.jpg
Put in place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/7061/lqag.jpg
Screwing to place with the four M3x10 button screws!

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/474/4kkf.jpg
Tower in place. Seems very sturdy. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

[Voske]

Looks like a very nice kit, and a nice build threat. :thumbsup:

[DJR2096]

Looks like a very nice kit, and a nice build threat. :thumbsup:
It's been a great kit so far. No grumbles from me!

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/6089/ocfw.jpg
Right up next is the front hubs. Again all nice clean!

http://imageshack.us/a/img41/5109/7rg7.jpg
Push in the two M5x10 included bearings

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/782/ykvt.jpg
Screw in a 4.8mm ball stud.

http://imageshack.us/a/img5/412/91rc.jpg
Push the knuckle are pins through the knuckle arms.

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/176/yim1.jpg
Place a M5x02 shim over the knuckle arm, then a hex adaptor.

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/4661/0mli.jpg
Then secure with a M2x12 hub pin.

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/8241/21v4.jpg
Take your knuckles and & place in the C-hub with an M2.5x7x1 plastic spacer each side of the knuckle. Push pin though &

http://imageshack.us/a/img547/848/hmv6.jpg
Secure with a M2x4 button head screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/7283/nf18.jpg
Left & right hubs finished

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/9647/3q5p.jpg
Next up...........turnbuckles!

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/962/55bn.jpg
I always take a little bit of plastic out of the ends of the ball caps just for ease of starting them off!

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8619/28i3.jpg
The supplied tool helps lots! Make four up & put them a side ready for mounting!

http://imageshack.us/a/img542/9725/bizk.jpg
Time to mount the C-hub/knuckle assembly.

http://imageshack.us/a/img209/5386/xpwx.jpg
Two spacers each side of the c-hub, push pin though & secure with a M2x4 screw.


http://imageshack.us/a/img31/2527/v8w3.jpg
Snap on you four turnbuckles and there you go!

[Bluestreak]

That looks really nice fella. And the price on rcmart seems to be very good value. How good do the plastics feel??

[Mugenextreme]

looks nice but best get yourself some spare castor blocks and steering knuckles for the front of the car.

[DJR2096]

That looks really nice fella. And the price on rcmart seems to be very good value. How good do the plastics feel?? Plastics aren't bad. Chassis has plenty of flex.

looks nice but best get yourself some spare castor blocks and steering knuckles for the front of the car. Yeah good idea!

http://imageshack.us/a/img809/3564/hcuw.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/2450/io19.jpg
Bag 3 & we start the backend!

http://imageshack.us/a/img585/3676/npis.jpg
I'm building the mid motor chassis so I can do away with these gear box half's.

http://imageshack.us/a/img593/8016/ww72.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9694/yhhx.jpg
You'll need to make up two 24T idle gears.

http://imageshack.us/a/img30/1478/p7nc.jpg
Lay shaft came pre-built but I still took it apart & rebuilt it!

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/316/fg52.jpg
Diff build next!

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img833/4456/mbo4.jpg
Although the kit come with ball diff grease, I opted to use the Team Associated.

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5858/irmy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/9390/ntrb.jpg
Grease up both Diff half's & Place a spacer/plate over each diff half. Then put a little grease on the plates.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8530/6jdc.jpg
Put a little bit of grease on the diff balls.

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/310/yqqa.jpg
Place the two 5x8x2.5 bearings in the open ended diff half. One will sit inside & one will sit on top .

http://imageshack.us/a/img10/3624/6r89.jpg
Place your 52T diff gear over the diff half with the bearings in.

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9421/cfms.jpg
The start to put your diff balls into the diff gear. I like to use the diff grease tube so the balls stick to the end!

http://imageshack.us/a/img4/7360/ldl9.jpg
I just put a smidgen of grease over the balls for good luck!

http://imageshack.us/a/img818/118/901e.jpg
Place the other half of the diff over the gear.

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/161/95vw.jpg
And prep the rest of the parts for putting it together.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8650/sjq0.jpg
a M10x0.3 shim & a M10x15x5 on each side of the diff.

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9976/j5rw.jpg
Put a little dab of Anti-wear grease on the thrust bearing & place it over the M2.6x22 diff screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/9463/jdsx.jpg
Put a M2.6 lock nut inside the diff nut, then place the M1.3x2 spring in the end of the diff followed by the diff nut, & place the diff screw into the other side.

http://imageshack.us/a/img196/8946/bvww.jpg
Tighten down all the way until its time to bed the ball diff in at the end of the build.

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/6920/fdqx.jpg
Mid motor gear box half's

http://imageshack.us/a/img541/5595/1md9.jpg
Lay shaft in place!

http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9814/rx70.jpg
Diff & idle gears in place with grease........

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/8572/jkmr.jpg
And that was my first mistake http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/nono.gif .
I should have given it a dry fitting as when it went together, it didn't want to close up too well. So after taking it apart once or twice I got it to close!
Yay!!................er no. now there's a binding when to turn the gears. So gunna strip it down tomorrow & have little at what might be binding inside! Hmmm not happy about that bit!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/tantrum.gif

[buggy#0]

Great build so far, but if you check the gearbox again and it still feels notchy you will probably just need to run it in a few times, I know because my Cougar was pretty bad (only took 1 race meet and it was butter smooth;))

[DJR2096]

Well after stripping the gearbox, checking each gear, running each idle gear on its own. found no issues.
So I put it back together & still there was binding http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/ack.gif .
I had it suggested to me it might disappear after a few runs by Buggy0

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/9475/kcvz.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/5666/z723.jpg
Mid motor guard time. Screw in the M310 set screw & screw the mount down over it.
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/6171/07by.jpg
yuk
http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/078.gif
http://imageshack.us/a/img819/266/shc8.jpg
Better http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/6899/nkbi.jpg
Place the motor guard & motor plate over the gearbox.

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/5085/vxch.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/5666/z723.jpg
The start screwing the plate & mount place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img266/6338/5dlg.jpg
Time to bolt the rear shock tower into place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/5473/m1nm.jpg
Screw two 4x8 ball studs each side stabilizer seat.

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/2606/xsso.jpg
Locate the shock tower onto the stabilizer seat.

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/6118/oayt.jpg
& screw into place with the two M3x10 button heads!

http://imageshack.us/a/img46/3562/ddgy.jpg
Ready the motor mount stiffener with its hardwear

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/2332/hn7u.jpg
End result!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

[mr. ed]

Maybe try loosening up the screws that hold both halves together a bit?

I'm surprised there's no pressure bearing in the diff outdrives

[DJR2096]

Maybe try loosening up the screws that hold both halves together a bit?

I'm surprised there's no pressure bearing in the diff outdrives

Actually the opposite worked better.
Seemed to run a lot smoother after being fully build.
But it only grinds a little in a certain place when rotated.
I have a feeling one if not both idle gear are a little on the poor molding side of things!

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/4128/l1ft.jpg
Slipper time!

http://imageshack.us/a/img23/4085/u9c2.jpg
Ruffen up the slipper pads a little.

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2149/g9dk.jpg
Place a M2x0.2 shim over the slipper shaft followed by a slipper plate.

http://imageshack.us/a/img854/8392/fuq1.jpg
Push the slipper pads in place onto the spur gear.

http://imageshack.us/a/img822/7336/2pt9.jpg
On goes your other slipper plate followed by the spring, slipper spring ring & M4 lock nut. Tighten down all the way ready for setting it up later.

http://imageshack.us/a/img17/871/j1ib.jpg
You rear end should look something like this by now!
Ready for the motor now!

http://imageshack.us/a/img46/5637/qcii.jpg
As I said at the start I going to be running the HPI Flux Pro system in this buggy. I got mine from Adrenaline Models for a great price!.
I'm running a 10.5T motor in this as I didn't want make to quick or the mark!

http://imageshack.us/a/img197/4673/d644.jpg
Bolted in place. Something missing but can't think what http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/017.gif

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5594/vrh4.jpg
Hmm now where do I fit new brushes? http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/imstupid.gif

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/2092/bo41.jpg
Next up is the gear cover. Slot in the slipper cover & screw it in place a M3.5 screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/2474/oz2y.jpg
Secure the gear cover to the gearbox with two M3.5 Button head screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/9319/mnqq.jpg
Place you gearbox assembly onto the rear of the chassis & put four m3x8 flat heads to hold it in place ready for the rear arm build.

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4116/bjnz.jpg
Time to put the rear arms together!

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/4163/8sl3.jpg
Slide a hinge through the arm & place a pivot ball on each end of the hinge pin.

http://imageshack.us/a/img547/6031/p4lc.jpg
Push the assembled pivot ball/arm assembly in to the pin carrier.

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/3170/lqli.jpg
Push the rear pin carrier into place. Push the pumper into its slot & bolt into place with M3x16 screw for the rear hols & M3x13 for the front hols.

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/2131/frzl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img826/8784/69rk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9738/je41.jpg
Assembling the rear hubs involves placing an M3x6x2 spacer over a 4.8x7mm ball stud & screwing it into the upright.
Place a M5x13x4 bearing in the front of the upright & a M10x15x4 in the rear.

http://imageshack.us/a/img196/1883/fpfp.jpg
The left & right universal drive shafts are very nicely build

http://imageshack.us/a/img42/7049/lpop.jpg
Push them into the uprights & fit them with the hexes just like the front.

http://imageshack.us/a/img545/6530/syhq.jpg
Build up the rear turnbuckles.

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/4865/yp6i.jpg
Push the hinge pin through the hub end of the arm & place a M2.5x7x1 spacer on to the pin.

http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9271/cs42.jpg
Place your upright over the pin followed by another M2.5x7x1 spacer.

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/600/3y74.jpg
Stop the pin from falling out by fitting a M2x4 button head screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img163/4703/t4e7.jpg
Bar shocks, rear end done! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img577/4263/nbxu.jpg
Wing mount parts!

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/3270/6sb5.jpg
Screw the mounts to the shock tower with four m3x12 button heads.

http://imageshack.us/a/img843/1122/u7on.jpg
Then place the two wing spacers over the mount & hold down with body pins.

http://imageshack.us/a/img854/9841/qu6w.jpg
Right time to get cracking on the shocks!

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/6263/tk3z.jpg
Start by trimming all the plastic parts of the trees/sprues!

http://imageshack.us/a/img834/1720/zigu.jpg
I'm going to be putting 1.3 pistons in both front & back but 30w oil in the front & 35w in the rear!

http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7028/hykp.jpg
First up fit the shaft with a 2.5mm C-clip.

http://imageshack.us/a/img571/4910/u288.jpg
Slide you piston over the shaft & secure it with another 2.5mm C-clip.

http://imageshack.us/a/img23/9762/mniu.jpg
shafts ready! Screw adjustment rings onto the shocks! Nice 3Racing emblem on the shock bodies. Nice little touch!

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/7783/7i86.jpg
Right, time lube up the seals & what not. Instead of the Associated green slim, I opted to try some GMK Shock Snot!
It seems to have a thicker viscosity than green slime dose. It seemed to stay on the seals with ease

http://imageshack.us/a/img837/7933/u9zc.jpg
In order of packing into the bottom of the shock body........O-ring cover, O-ring, O-ring spacer, O-ring, O-ring cover.
The screw on the bottom end cap!

http://imageshack.us/a/img818/6082/tw6b.jpg
Shock shaft & body built!

http://imageshack.us/a/img28/8013/rku3.jpg
Pre tapping the shock cap with it's bleeder screw.

http://imageshack.us/a/img833/1518/qnwt.jpg
Shacks filled with oil, end cap on & ball cap in place!



http://imageshack.us/a/img34/9028/xojz.jpg
Springs & shock ends next.

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/5289/lczw.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img209/4613/xtv5.jpg
M5.8x6 ball end in the bottom, Damper ball end in the top!

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/2739/6tnc.jpg
Front shock in place!

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/2158/qafy.jpg
Rear shocks in place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img594/6618/ifs6.jpg
& there we have it!
Leccy bits next!

[DJR2096]

Right.............mounting the servo!

http://imageshack.us/a/img38/6808/ocg8.jpg
I opted to run a Power HD 1209TG servo for this buggy.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/834/0c39.jpg
Servo post parts ready to be fitted.


http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7209/85qk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img440/2434/56p0.jpg
Placement goes post,1mm post shim held in place by M3x8 screw. I added a wash to spread the load on the servo.

http://imageshack.us/a/img40/3733/mry4.jpg
The servo save parts read to be fitted. Some folk over in the states have chosen to not run the servo save & have gone with a alloy servo arm instead.

http://imageshack.us/a/img199/8275/mx9z.jpg
Your servo will need to be zeroed at this point.

http://imageshack.us/a/img843/3834/3qh7.jpg
Fit the spring, place the spring cover over that & tighten down with a M3x18 button head.
Then fit the ball stud in the top.

http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7807/y25y.jpg
Servo arm parts ready to be put together.

http://imageshack.us/a/img809/208/v4p5.jpg
Servo are ready & snapped into place. I know, I know I missed a pink bit http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/078.gif


http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6215/pxy1.jpg
In place with the bell crank side of the steering arm snapped on.
Time to screw it in place.

http://imageshack.us/a/img842/7823/rwmw.jpg
Screw the servo to the chassis with two M3x8.

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/9441/y19x.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img7/9026/8bxl.jpg
Next up is the battery stopper. This fixes to the chassis with two M3x8 flat heads.

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6195/oh6t.jpg
Building the swinging battery cover is next on the bill. A little cutting & trimming the spru first!

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/333/ngkz.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img194/4876/wzbd.jpg
After cleaning up the cover mount, slide an M3x10 though the battery cover & though a flanged tube into the cover mount.

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/4153/vh62.jpg
Battery tray foam in next.

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/1537/5tb1.jpg
I opted to fit both centre & side foams.

http://imageshack.us/a/img820/2953/qyht.jpg
Next locate a square peg in a square hole!

http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7748/qzhs.jpg
Bolt down your hinged battery cover with two M3x8 screws

http://imageshack.us/a/img27/2159/wspg.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img820/4954/v9ka.jpg
Locate the mid motor conversion battery post mounts & screw them into place with two M3x22 screws. The screws that came with my kit
were more like M3x25's

http://imageshack.us/a/img36/1501/9isl.jpg
Push the cover into place......................

http://imageshack.us/a/img19/8215/jein.jpg
Bolt down the battery cover with the two supplied thumb screws. I'll upgrade the thumb screws to alloy one's at a later date!

[DJR2096]

http://imageshack.us/a/img197/2420/uqnx.jpg
DST in place for the ESC!

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/4764/hj4i.jpg
Set of yellow dish wheels came with the kit.

http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1502/70kh.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img11/6330/z2jh.jpg
Biggest shock for me with this kit was inclusion of a set of AKA tyres.

http://imageshack.us/a/img34/4750/5ym1.jpg
You get a set of AKA Three Rib in red compound for the front. Jared Tebo won the 2013 worlds with a set of these!


http://imageshack.us/a/img703/729/ql6i.jpg
And a set of Impact tyres for the rear also in red compound.
Both have AKA red inserts too!

http://imageshack.us/a/img202/3665/lv9i.jpg
Next up.......................the body shell & it paint job!

[Darrin70]

Just finished building a rear motor one minus paint for my son to race, he did not want to race what I race... It is was actually a nice build, impressed with the fit finish and the shocks...Wonder if they will release a gear diff and or a larger spur gear?

[DJR2096]

Just finished building a rear motor one minus paint for my son to race, he did not want to race what I race... It is was actually a nice build, impressed with the fit finish and the shocks...Wonder if they will release a gear diff and or a larger spur gear?

Yeah it's not a bad buggy for the price.
Only other problem I've found apart from the gritty mid gear box is I seem to have wobbly front knuckle arm pins.
When I spin my front wheels, My wheels look like they are buckled:(

Just waiting on HPI to do something about my ESC.
As when I fitted it to my buggy & switched it on, it would just sit flashing at me!!
Got power to the servo & fan. Wouldn't go into set up??

[SHY]

Very nice & detailed build tread! Looks like a very nice kit!

Agreed on the purple anodizing! :D

[DJR2096]

Very nice & detailed build tread! Looks like a very nice kit!

Agreed on the purple anodizing! :D
Thanks Bud!:D.
Soooooooooo not a good colour!

[Darrin70]

Yeah it's not a bad buggy for the price.
Only other problem I've found apart from the gritty mid gear box is I seem to have wobbly front knuckle arm pins.
When I spin my front wheels, My wheels look like they are buckled:(

Just waiting on HPI to do something about my ESC.
As when I fitted it to my buggy & switched it on, it would just sit flashing at me!!
Got power to the servo & fan. Wouldn't go into set up??That's to bad about the esc.. Check your sensor wire, or change it out... I found that the wheels are not true they have a bad worp... There is a bit of play on my chubs also, it could be the plastic washers wearing right away.. As for the gear box/ball diff mine feels butter smooth, I always clean all the ball and diff rings before use, manufacturers will put anti corrosion oil on them for shipping, this will make your ball diff feel gritty and wear quicker..

[Darrin70]

What I was also impressed with, was the pre cut velcro.......:) These guys are thinking of the little stuff that makes a difference.. Can't wait for the release of some hopups!!

[DJR2096]

I checked all sorts on the ESC. No change. So it went back to Adrenaline Models where I got it from & they sent it back to HPI.
Now the waiting begins.

Yeah the pre-cut Velcro was good as was the 3M double sided tape. I love that stuff.

Was wondering if there was going to be any hop-ups. Asiatees stock spares & kits, so maybe we might get something from them.

[Darrin70]

For the money you might want to look at this for a esc.. SkyRC's Toro TS 120amp, I run this in 4 of my cars.. Other then a plastic case design it is damn good... I messaged SkyRC about updating the software for braking and about 3 weeks later there was a update... RCMART has them free shipping check it out...Small foot print..

http://www.rcmart.com/skyrc-30004401-toro-120a-brushless-sensored-wprogram-p-36726.html

[DJR2096]

For the money you might want to look at this for a esc.. SkyRC's Toro TS 120amp, I run this in 4 of my cars.. Other then a plastic case design it is damn good... I messaged SkyRC about updating the software for braking and about 3 weeks later there was a update... RCMART has them free shipping check it out...Small foot print..

http://www.rcmart.com/skyrc-30004401-toro-120a-brushless-sensored-wprogram-p-36726.html

Looks like a pretty good ESC. One to think about. :thumbsup:
I know one thing, If HPI don't re-new my ESC, I've got two 1/8 HB buggies that'll be going up for sale, & I'll take my money elsewhere!

[Darrin70]

I don't blame you... I hope it get resolved for you!!!

[DJR2096]

Right time to finish up this build!
HPI did indeed replace my ESC. Thanks HPI/HB top stuff:thumbsup:

ESC in with motor & receiver in place!
http://imageshack.com/a/img9/2921/y713.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img534/9200/yvby.jpg

The manual says use a 24T pinion. So I did with Schumacher braded pinion! Tiny dab of blue on the motor screws to keep them in place
http://imageshack.com/a/img822/5518/vveo.jpg

I chose to remover my fan off of my Flux pro ESC & see how temps go when I run the buggy.
http://imageshack.com/a/img823/3342/iiri.jpg

Well after running in my ball diff & setting my slipper, I'm happy to say she's up & running.
Been raining here today so not had a chance to let her rip. Given her a run around the living room & she rollers just fine!

I guess it's time to unveil the bodyshell & pain job!

http://imageshack.com/a/img209/52/iz6y.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img31/3674/xzw1.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img12/3666/trtm.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img163/1971/sz6z.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img716/3521/qv7x.jpg

[Chrissy Boy]

I have to say that does look like a nice kit, out of curiosity will you have to get any spares from the states or can you get parts from over here?

[DJR2096]

I have to say that does look like a nice kit, out of curiosity will you have to get any spares from the states or can you get parts from over here?

All the spares come from Honk Kong. No one stocks over here I'm afraid!

[DJR2096]

Hmm well after putting the first pack through the Cactus,
I have to say seems like a great buggy http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

But while putting the second pack through it, I flipped it on tarmac while jumping it.
And this happened!
http://imageshack.com/a/img571/932/4tli.jpg
Excuse this poor pic.
Hmm Not used to plastic shock towers, should this happen?
New rear mid shock tower on the way!

[DJR2096]

Well had to be done, I went & glued the shock tower!
Took the cactus out on the road for another spin/
Well I have to say mid motor handles fantastic on a hi grip surface.
Was smiles all round:D

[The Dark Knight]

Looks like a nice bit of kit for money, tempted to get one myself. Nice write up on the build too.

Not so good about the rear shock tower, but plastic will be more brittle in this cold weather.

[DJR2096]

Looks like a nice bit of kit for money, tempted to get one myself. Nice write up on the build too.

Not so good about the rear shock tower, but plastic will be more brittle in this cold weather.

True & it was cold to be fair on 3Racing.
Still, the tower is still holding with super glue:thumbsup:

[/tobys]

looks like the tower flexed and broke when it touched the motor plate. The DEX210 suffered from this in the past. A quick fix for this was to space the tower out so it had more clearance; it allowed the tower to flex without touching the motor plate so easily.

[DJR2096]

looks like the tower flexed and broke when it touched the motor plate. The DEX210 suffered from this in the past. A quick fix for this was to space the tower out so it had more clearance; it allowed the tower to flex without touching the motor plate so easily.

Ah thanks for that info!
Will look into that.
I was wondering if any other kits bits would fit?

[The Dark Knight]

How's the buggy going? Have you raced it yet? Very interested to see how these perform.

[DJR2096]

How's the buggy going? Have you raced it yet? Very interested to see how these perform.

No not raced it as of yet.
It handles really nice on road. not had a chance to take off road.

[The Dark Knight]

When is your first race with it?

[DJR2096]

When is your first race with it?
Have No idea at the moment.

[Darrin70]

Ran my sons buggy in rear motor configuration last week to break in the diff, wow very impressed with the handling.. I used the tires that came with it on indoor clay which I would never use it on, but it performed awesome..

[DJR2096]

Ran my sons buggy in rear motor configuration last week to break in the diff, wow very impressed with the handling.. I used the tires that came with it on indoor clay which I would never use it on, but it performed awesome..

It's a great buggy.
Did you're come with AKA tires?

[Darrin70]

Yes it did..

[Moose]

where did you put weight? Looks like only shorty batteries will work in mid motor. But it looks very tight to put enough weight in it.

[DJR2096]

where did you put weight? Looks like only shorty batteries will work in mid motor. But it looks very tight to put enough weight in it.
Yeah I just used one shorty pack.

[albella]

I have 2 days of track time on my Cactus thus far and I am very impressed. The first day I was ill prepared with tires but last night on my home track...WOW. Mid motor on medium bite dirt (not clay) and a few minor setup changes and it was strapped. I was about 1 second off the pace of the A main winner from last week on a fully prepped track. I can't wait for race day!

[DJR2096]

I have 2 days of track time on my Cactus thus far and I am very impressed. The first day I was ill prepared with tires but last night on my home track...WOW. Mid motor on medium bite dirt (not clay) and a few minor setup changes and it was strapped. I was about 1 second off the pace of the A main winner from last week on a fully prepped track. I can't wait for race day!
Sounds pretty good!

[henry64]

I was wondering what other brands of wheels, shock springs and pistons will work with this buggy?

It seems like a pretty good value and it would be nice being able to go back and forth from MM to RM due to the fact that I race on a variety of terrain.

Thanks for any feedback.

[DJR2096]

I think people use team associated wheels & Losi springs for the most part!

[notme]

Bump...any more news on the performance and durability on this buggy? thanks

[Darrin70]

Where are you from DJR? Someone said you were in Ontario racing at Apex RC..

[DJR2096]

Where are you from DJR? Someone said you were in Ontario racing at Apex RC..

Nooooooooooo. That would a very long way to go for a race meeting.......as in air fair. lol

I'm from the UK.

[Darrin70]

Oh I see lol... Yes very long trip!! :)

[albella]

Bump...any more news on the performance and durability on this buggy? thanks

Durability is excellent. Performance has been outstanding. Being one of the few (prolly only) person in my area to run one all set-ups have been a "shot in the dark." Mostly with good results though.

[Darrin70]

Great buggy for the price!! The only thing so far is when the steering is at full lock, the wheel rubs on the rod end.. I might add a 1-2mm wheel spacer shim.

[DJR2096]

Great buggy for the price!! The only thing so far is when the steering is at full lock, the wheel rubs on the rod end.. I might add a 1-2mm wheel spacer shim.

Yeah I got that problem too!

[albella]

Yeah I got that problem too!

Really? I have not had this problem. "Bindy" front arms but no ball cup rubbing.

[Darrin70]

Yeah I got that problem too!I have sanded some of the area away on the ball end but not enough.. Don't want to make it too thin. That's the reason for the wheel spacers!! It does affect the steering, great initial turn in, until you cranck the steering at those tight 180's.. Almost like front brakes.. lol This should be addressed by 3racing!!

[DJR2096]

I have sanded some of the area away on the ball end but not enough.. Don't want to make it too thin. That's the reason for the wheel spacers!! It does affect the steering, great initial turn in, until you cranck the steering at those tight 180's.. Almost like front brakes.. lol This should be addressed by 3racing!!

I agree! I have considered dremeling of a little out of the wheels or ball ends.

[Tom3012]

Built most of mine last night, quite happy with it! I'm going to round off the tops of the shock towers, with them being pointy i think they are more likely to stick in the ground and potentially snap, other than that i cant wait to try it :thumbsup:

[albella]

So, How is everyone's Cactus running?

[DJR2096]

Awesome the last time I ran her!
Just can't get over how good mid motor is on high grip!

[Kusal]

How is the gearbox?
I wanted to put mine together this evening and it felt very hard to turn.
Will open it up again tomorrow and see what the issue could be...

[DJR2096]

How is the gearbox?
I wanted to put mine together this evening and it felt very hard to turn.
Will open it up again tomorrow and see what the issue could be...

In mid, Mine has a point where it binds a little. May be a few more packs & it will losen up!

[Darrin70]

I built a rear and mid, the mid did bind a bit but has loosened up.. Will get smoother as times goes on..

[DJR2096]

I built a rear and mid, the mid did bind a bit but has loosened up.. Will get smoother as times goes on..

Good to hear. I really need to run mine more!

[albella]

Getting better by the day. Loving this buggy!

[DJR2096]

Getting better by the day. Loving this buggy!

Looking good:thumbsup:

[Tom3012]

Here's mine... Really impressed for the money!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/827/cuil.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mzcuilj)

[DJR2096]

Here's mine... Really impressed for the money!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/827/cuil.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mzcuilj)

Where you have your ESC is where I was going to place mine when I first built her!:thumbsup:

[DJR2096]

I just got my un-anodised alloy parts powder coated by this chap
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rc-Cars-Buggys-Powder-Coating-/131128519499?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1e87de6b4b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rc-Cars-Buggys-Powder-Coating-/131128519499?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1e87de6b4b)

& very happy I am too!:thumbsup:

Here's what I had done in black!
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc171/djr2096/DSC07196.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc171/djr2096/DSC07197.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc171/djr2096/DSC07198.jpg


http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc171/djr2096/DSC07202.jpg

Three parts plus the shims under the ball ends £18 inc shipping back to you.
Pretty good!:thumbsup:

[albella]

Looks great!!

[The Dark Knight]

Can anyone confirm if the kit comes with the parts to convert to mid motor?

If not, what are the part numbers you need?

[Tom3012]

All the parts are in the box for either mid motor or rear motor...

Ive bent two rear shock shafts and had a drive shaft fall apart at the axle, little bit gutted but durango dex210 axles fit with a few spacers so thats job done, just need to find some stronger shock shafts!

Car drives really well though!

[The Dark Knight]

Here's mine... Really impressed for the money!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/827/cuil.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mzcuilj)

To install your esc there, did you have to grind away some of the chassis ribs?

[The Dark Knight]

All the parts are in the box for either mid motor or rear motor...

Ive bent two rear shock shafts and had a drive shaft fall apart at the axle, little bit gutted but durango dex210 axles fit with a few spacers so thats job done, just need to find some stronger shock shafts!

Car drives really well though!

Thanks for the info, very tempted to get one of these for occasional use.

[DJR2096]

Thanks for the info, very tempted to get one of these for occasional use.

Ya just can't argue for the price. Tis good for the money!

[The Dark Knight]

I've got another question for you, what wheels do you run on this? Have you tried other brands like Schumacher for example?

[Tom3012]

Nope, didn't modify the chassis in any way to fit the speedo there...

I've been running Team C wheels on mine since I got it, I don't like yellow wheels and that's what come in the box :lol:

[The Dark Knight]

Nope, didn't modify the chassis in any way to fit the speedo there...

I've been running Team C wheels on mine since I got it, I don't like yellow wheels and that's what come in the box :lol:

Cool, thanks for the info. If I go for this kit, I'll most likely mount the speedo where you have.

That's good to know that other brands of wheels will fit.

[The Dark Knight]

I've decided to give the kit a go, I've been happy with my 3Racing XI Sport touring car so I should be happy with this.

What breakages have you guys had? Just wondering what spares to get, I'm almost tempted just to buy 2 kits.

[DJR2096]

I've decided to give the kit a go, I've been happy with my 3Racing XI Sport touring car so I should be happy with this.

What breakages have you guys had? Just wondering what spares to get, I'm almost tempted just to buy 2 kits.

Just the rear shock tower for me. After a boil the tower seems fine!

[albella]

I've decided to give the kit a go, I've been happy with my 3Racing XI Sport touring car so I should be happy with this.

What breakages have you guys had? Just wondering what spares to get, I'm almost tempted just to buy 2 kits.

I have only broken the rear axles. Right where they come out of bearing. I am selling mine. PM me if your interested.

[fencer39]

Nice looking kit!
Is it shipped from Hong Kong?......and is there any import duty to pay?

[DJR2096]

Nice looking kit!
Is it shipped from Hong Kong?......and is there any import duty to pay?

Yep shipped from Hong Kong.
Some end up paying customs, some do not!

[albella]

Integy also sells the Cactus as well as all 3Racing products.

[The Dark Knight]

Would you guys say that mounting the esc in front of the battery, is the best place to mount it? The only negative I can see about mounting there, is that the wires to the motor are quite long.

[DJR2096]

Would you guys say that mounting the esc in front of the battery, is the best place to mount it? The only negative I can see about mounting there, is that the wires to the motor are quite long.
Lower COG, more weight up front. I put my receiver there & the ESC up the back above the battery tray. had to dremel out the back of the folding trey so I could open it up & put my LIPO in.

[The Dark Knight]

Lower COG, more weight up front. I put my receiver there & the ESC up the back above the battery tray. had to dremel out the back of the folding trey so I could open it up & put my LIPO in.

Have you any photos of your current set-up?

What would you recommend as a good starting point for shock oils? 30wt front & 35wt rear?

[DJR2096]

Have you any photos of your current set-up?

What would you recommend as a good starting point for shock oils? 30wt front & 35wt rear?
Stick with stock set up & oils is what I did.

[Clive Loynes]

Can anyone tell me if the gearbox internals use the same gear module as Team-C?

I want to put a geared diff in it.

[DJR2096]

Can anyone tell me if the gearbox internals use the same gear module as Team-C?

I want to put a geared diff in it.
Never tried to be onest.

[Khan48]

Any way to rehost the build images? Image shack seems to have eaten them =( (Use imgur!)

[Darrin70]

Some new upgrades to be realeased soon.. :)

http://os.3racing.hk/search.php?products_model=cac-&page=4

[DJR2096]

Some new upgrades to be realeased soon.. :)

http://os.3racing.hk/search.php?products_model=cac-&page=4

Yeah I seen them. Can't weight. Glad you added that link buddy!:thumbsup:
New shock towers is what I'm going for first!!

[Khan48]

Hey all, i just finished the build, but i'm getting a weird and nasty transmission sound. See video below, and turn down the volume, its kind of loud.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR3HkOK7uTE

I rebuilt the trans after i first heard this sound. Exact same sound after rebuild. I tried to keep the case screws looser but that doesn't seem to help.

I've detached the motor, CVDs, and slipper and ran the thing with a hand drill and it still making the noise.

I will say turning the trans by hand it has some sticking points and people did say that the trans in this thing isn't very smooth at first, but this seems a ridiculous. Is this just the gears wearing in?

[mr. ed]

I'd take the topshaft , idler(s) and diff out of the trans and inspect those for burrs and flashes. Run an exacto knife through the recess between the teeth.
If there's one difficult area per turn of both wheels; it would be on the diffgear.
If it's roughly 2 to 3 times per turn of both wheels: check the topshaft and idlers first.

You could also try taking the gears out and reassembling one by one: driving the wheels and spur by hand you'd feel the problem disappear when the guitly element is removed (if it's only one)

[Khan48]

I'd take the topshaft , idler(s) and diff out of the trans and inspect those for burrs and flashes. Run an exacto knife through the recess between the teeth.
If there's one difficult area per turn of both wheels; it would be on the diffgear.
If it's roughly 2 to 3 times per turn of both wheels: check the topshaft and idlers first.

You could also try taking the gears out and reassembling one by one: driving the wheels and spur by hand you'd feel the problem disappear when the guitly element is removed (if it's only one)

Thanks for the advice. Its the most helpful info I've gotten from a couple sources. I had greased the transmission gears so what i noticed was that on the idlers and diff gear there were places where the grease had been pushed all the way to the "bottom" of the teeth. I figured this was where there was some binding so I ran the exacto through these areas.

After reassembly it was much better, but still some binding. I've run a few packs through it and now its much smoother.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

A little top tip from the olden days
Get yourself an old brushed 540 motor and a couple of D cells from you local pound shop
Fit the motor and run the transmission on the bench connected to one D cell (1.5V) for the life of the battery.
swap the wires round and and run it in reverse for the life of the battery
This will give a much gentler run in

[Khan48]

A little top tip from the olden days
Get yourself an old brushed 540 motor and a couple of D cells from you local pound shop
Fit the motor and run the transmission on the bench connected to one D cell (1.5V) for the life of the battery.
swap the wires round and and run it in reverse for the life of the battery
This will give a much gentler run in

Interesting. I'll give this a try next time!.

Does anyone know the spring rates of the stock kit springs?

Also, does anyone have a setup starting point for med-high grip smooth clay?

[kooshking]

Been running a Cactus for the past month or two and so far I like it. Mixing it up with some other brands like Kyosho, Losi, Associated, Schumacher and Serpent. So far it's not only keeping up but beating some of them. Ran mid-motor initially on my regular track which is low bite/traction. Performed pretty well. Traction is not as good as those running rear motor but turn in is awesome. Had to to be smooth on throttle and follow the racing line to get the best runs.

Today I just converted it to rear motor. Still getting used to it and tuning it some more. Much more traction in rear motor config and lost only some steering. Great car IMHO!

Here's some slow motion jump action!
The first car (green) is the Cactus, the other two are Serpent SRX-2s.

5Kvd8j1cFVg