CAT SX setup discussion

[jimmy]

Hey guys - this is a new car and I'm sure it'll be a massively popular one which is new to everyone, so feel free to use this sticky for setup discussion. :)

[Rich D]

Are you gonna treat yourself Jimmy ? Must admit im tempted and ive not even raced my B44 as yet !

[Oliv996]

According the online instruction manual, page 36, I think there's something wrong with first table:
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4687/sxratiochartmg0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
:confused:

[sime46]

Hi. Just been reading Mr Moss's worksop set up. It says diaphram centres cut out and removed. How,what and why is what I was wondering? Thanks for all the advise. It is invaluable with such a new car. Cant wait to run mine. :thumbsup:

[barnyard]

oliv : give us a clue what you think is wrong i'm clearly missing something

the shocks have bladders fitted as standard like most tourers and 1/8th rallycross, cut means the top of the bladder has been removed making the shock more tike the associated 1/10th buggy style, its just another tuning option.

[telboy]

Think he might be thinking that it means the minimum teeth is 99 yet it goes down to 80 on the chart.

But if you look oliv, the total minimum 'combination' of spur+pinion is 99 total, 83 spur + 16 pinion = 99total.
And max combination is 80 spur + 28 pinion = 108 total.

I know it has 80 spur and 16 pinion on the chart, but I'm assuming that this combination can't be used.

So therefor it all looks correct to me.
:thumbsup:

[Mossy]

Pretty much spot on. While i have been testing the car all year Ive have tried shocks with full diaphrams and the cut diaphrams. All i do is cut the complete centre out so you are left with the outer ring. You need this so the oil doesnt leak out of the bleed hole at the side. Personally, ive found the shocks with cut diaprams feel better as opposed to the others, they feel more fluid and give less inital pack in my opinion.

Si

[Oliv996]

oliv : give us a clue what you think is wrong i'm clearly missing something

Assuming following data:
Diff pulley: 36T
Pulley just before diff: 20T

For the first cell (pinion 16T, spur gear 83T and 34/22 combination) it would be:
(83/16)*(34/22)*(36/20) = 14.43 instead of 14.37 :eh?:

The two others tables are correct ;)

[barnyard]

looks like somebody incorrectly calculated the internal ratio to be 2.77.

if i'm honest i hadn't looked that deeply into it as all the numbers appear sensible at first glance.

[Kecky]

3 Questions.....

What pinion size should i be looking at for a kit set-up 33/23/83 using an LRP Sphere TC Speedo, and LRP Vector X11 5.5 with a sintered rotor?

What is the rule of thumb when you change a bonded rotor for a sintered rotor with regard to pinion size?

Is Worksop clased as high or low traction?

Cheers in advance.

Ryan

[stegger]

Will you be using Lipo or NiCad ryan ?:lol::lol::lol:

Seriously though Lipo or Nimh ?

[Kecky]

3600 Duracel Bunnies going like the clappers :lol:

But if i can't find that many, i'll put the Lipo in :thumbsup:

[stegger]

You might need to put a 6.5 in ryan if your using Lipo it will be rapid;)

[Kecky]

Especially with my all or nothing thumbs :lol:





*Note to self: 2 packs of front wishbones just incase* :lol:

[stegger]

Especially with my all or nothing thumbs :lol:





*Note to self: 2 packs of front wishbones just incase* :lol:
Kecky i've heard they are bringing out a maintenance pack for £90 with a load of stuff in it like WISHBONES:woot: etc. If you buy the same parts on there own it would cost you more:)

[Kecky]

Due to a change in motor, can anyone help me with the gearing.

I will now be running a Novak Velocity 7.5L Motor, and Trakpower 3600 Lipo cells, with the kit set-up 33/23 & 83 Spur.

The instructions with the motor state you should gear 2 teeth lower than you would use for a 12 or 13 turn brushed motor.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Ryan

[stegger]

Due to a change in motor, can anyone help me with the gearing.

I will now be running a Novak Velocity 7.5L Motor, and Trakpower 3600 Lipo cells, with the kit set-up 33/23 & 83 Spur.

The instructions with the motor state you should gear 2 teeth lower than you would use for a 12 or 13 turn brushed motor.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Ryan
I'm guessing here and going from other setups but i'd start on a 21t and go from there ryan. Better to gear low and be safe mate.:)

[Kecky]

Cheers Stegger

The motor info sheet says 2 teeth lower than a 12t or 13t brushed motor and 1 tooth lower than the 7.5R motor.

I'll start off with a 21 and take it from there :)

[MattW]

I run Speed Passion 5.5 on 21 pinion, so i'd go up at least a couple if it were me.

[stegger]

I run Speed Passion 5.5 on 21 pinion, so i'd go up at least a couple if it were me.
Cheers matt, we were just airing on the side of caution:thumbsup:

[Chrislong]

I ran a Novak 5.5R on 23/83, and it seemed bang on - didn't get overly hot.

Id perhaps sugest 24 or 25 with the 83.

[Mossy]

[quote=Chrislong;162750]I ran a Novak 5.5R on 23/83, and it seemed bang on - didn't get overly hot.
quote]

Thats my gearing lol, thief!

[stegger]

Mossy, could you post up your final setup from worksop round 1 please :)

[DAVIDZX5]

What wings do you use on the cat sx..................:confused:

[telboy]

A lot of driver just ran the kit wings, but some were running the wider wings from othe manufacturers (asso', edit, HB, etc.).

[Mossy]

Ive posted my final setup in the Setup thread from the weekend. As for wings, i ran an associated high downforce one with only a small amount removed from the back.

[PaulUpton]

Im looking at putting Ti screws and ball joints on my SX, anyone who has done this do you know how many of each size of screw you need?

Just checking before i sit down and count them myself

Paul

[PaulUpton]

Could someone PM with where to get the orings which some guys have changed too in there shocks

Many Thanks

Paul

[stegger]

http://www.nortechracing.co.uk/ or contact northy on here. whities are the way to go :thumbsup:

[PaulUpton]

Thanks Stegger, found link last night, tried ordering them but came up with an error, have sent email/pm so hopefully get it sorted!

Thanks

Paul

[stefke]

I'm in the process of building my CAT SX. It's a nice return to Schumacher since my very first 4wd was a CAT2000EC.

Since i'll be giving the car its first runs on the Kampenhout track, I'm looking for an astro setup to start with on work from there.

[waggz]

I will be running on an Indoor high traction dirt track in the US. The track is typically pretty technical with maybe on or 2 big jumps and lots of smaller jumps

What would be a good starting point?

[Oliv996]

What difference does it make on the car switching diff position high/low in their housings :confused:

Thanks mates

[Northy]

High 'should' give more grip at that end, but I think it will be marginal :bored:

G

[Chrislong]

I have a theory with setting up this car, and being so tuneable it is possible - not possible with ANY other chassis I am aware of.

My theory is also basic because it focus's on single area's of the car to deal with specific characteristics on the track without mixing up one area with another. Therefore the car can be tuned to be perfect as long as you can identify what the car is doing and what you want from it.


1st. To setup the car to go over the bumps, jumps and landings, dial in the shocks to suit. Oil, piston and spring. (wing size for in air)

2nd. To setup the amount of turn in the car has, change the ackerman link to suit. Longer = more initial steering. Don't make big changes at a time. Start with bellcranks parallel. Kit setting ok 8mm leaves the bellcranks pointing in (too short).

3rd. To setup the amount of side bite through & exiting the corner, change the geometry - rear toe in, camber, camber link height & length.

4th. To setup the amount of straight line traction, change Diff height, rear pin height and antisquat. (generally want maximum traction)

5th. To setup the amount of corner exit traction, choose diff, diff + roller, or one way. (generally one way everywhere for maximum traction)

I have setup my car by focusing on 1 then 2, then 3 & 4 together, and finally 5. The result is awesome. Some of the decisions made in early steps will effect the result of later steps, but by focusing sections of the setup on particular characteristics then the result is uncompromised!! ;)

Granted I have skipped a few areas such as wheelbase, camber link length, front castor and width, but like anything - to follow the above you will need an understanding of what does what in terms of setup (in which case, if unsure, copy my setup in the setups section then tell me (PM) how it feels and what you want it to do differently and i'll make some recommendations)

I love setting up this car as it is so easy to understand, and it responds as it should to every change.

Chris

[Chrislong]

What difference does it make on the car switching diff position high/low in their housings :confused:

Thanks mates

When the diff is spinning it naturally wants to straighten the driveshafts to be level. So having a higher diff means the driveshafts will be straighter - or perhaps pointing down, which will generate more traction mechanically than the driveshafts smiling for the same overall ride height.

Also, having more plunge on a high speed rotating diff adds pack (independent to shocks), so having less plunge in a high diff free's up the corners to allow the shocks to work.... im not sure on the reason for this one, but it seems to be true when I have used it as a setup change.

Therefore, I use high diff on the rear of my SX, low diff on the front.

[Oliv996]

Thanks Chris for your analysis :thumbsup:

[Swiss]

I ran my car in anger for the first tiem at the weekend... and was impressed. couple fo questions I would like to ask if any one has hints and tips...
Front Suspension
Oil: 
 35wt
Diaphragm: Cut out
Piston: Three hole
Spring: Schumacher Red (new)
Track Washers: 2mm front/2mm rear
Anti-Roll Bar: None
Shock Position - Tower: Middle
Shock Position - Wishbone: Middle
Front Rake: 10-degrees
Front Link Bracket: 38.5mm (2mm washers)
Washers on Hub: 2.5mm (hub carrier cut flush)
Ride Height: d/shaft level

Rear Suspension
Oil: 25wt
Diaphragm: Cut out
Piston: Three hole
Spring: Schumacher Yellow
Wheelbase: Short
Toe In: (3.5mm rear/1.5mm front)
Anti Squat Washers: 1.3 degrees (2mm rear, 1mm front)
Rear Link Bracket: 37.5mm (5mm washers under ball)
Shock Position - Tower: Middle
Shock Position - Wishbone: Inside
Hub Camber Link: Middle
Anti-Roll Bar: None
Ride Height: w/bone level

Transmission
Front Diff Height: Low
Rear Diff Height: Low
Layshaft Pulley: One-way
Front Drive: Diff
Gearing: 21/83/Ni-Mh/5.5 with 12.5mm sintered rotor.
Internal Ratio: Kit pulleys

I found the car didn't push enough on power, e.g. going on to the straight the car.. I was thinking of trying more toe in on the rear, also either getting rid of some of the washer under the 'ball' or removing some from the front camber link bracket...

Thanks

[Chrislong]

I am not sure I understand. Do you want the car to understeer more on power? Or are you saying that it oversteered.

[Swiss]

I am not sure I understand. Do you want the car to understeer more on power? Or are you saying that it oversteered.

Sorry Chris, it oversteered on power. So exciting the final corner going on to the straight the car would just hang on too much? So I want to make it understeer more on power...

Paul

[MattW]

Paul, you're on the right lines with either of your suggestions - and to be honest, i'd probably look at both. I have less washers in the front of mine, and more toe in

[Chrislong]

Its on power rear traction you want I reckon.

Rear toe in, raise the rear diff, less antisquat, longer rear camber link. All should help - do 1 at a time and do another run making notes on paper so you can go back.

Do try my posted setup, its exactly what you are describing that I had to start with and its easy to dial out. ;)

[Swiss]

All

I was going to try Nathan Waters set up from the F3's.. And was putting 2mm anti squat washers at the rear but found the wishbones catches on the chassis???? I have checked everything is in the right place??

P

[barnyard]

Sounds correct it just needs a little bit of attention with a dremmel.

Dont go too mad just thin the top of the chassis of a fraction until it doesn't catch anymore this is what i did when i had the car and i know others have done to theirs.

[Swiss]

Also the ctr to ctr, (of ball cup) camber length is 46.5mm which causes the servo horn to foul on the batery posts.... Is this another mod? Or are people using a slightly differant length?

[BlackedOutMugen]

Its on power rear traction you want I reckon.

Rear toe in, raise the rear diff, less antisquat, longer rear camber link. All should help - do 1 at a time and do another run making notes on paper so you can go back.

Do try my posted setup, its exactly what you are describing that I had to start with and its easy to dial out. ;)


How far would I raise the rear diff if I was going to do so? So far my car is great! But Id rather learn what to do now in case I need to make a few changes:thumbsup:

Thanks

[Chrislong]

There is no middle ground for the diff position - there is only high or low, you just turn the diff cams around. Make sure to not loose the belt tension while doing it.

When I am home I will confirm exactly where the dot is on the cam in relation to the gearbox - this should be about right for all.

[BlackedOutMugen]

There is no middle ground for the diff position - there is only high or low, you just turn the diff cams around. Make sure to not loose the belt tension while doing it.

When I am home I will confirm exactly where the dot is on the cam in relation to the gearbox - this should be about right for all.

Ohhhhhh. Ok I get it now. Haha, I was thinking of tensioning the belts, not the high/low.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

[mharlow]

What effect on the the steering does having the the linkage in the hgh or low hole on the servo horn.

[RETRO R/C]

It will theoretically speed the feel of the response of the servo - as the servo will have to move less across its arc to give the same amount of travel. Theoretically this could "speed up" the feel of the steering - certainly a not a good thing if your car feels a little twitchy!

Cheers

Darryn

[frefon]

any one says which oil is used on original build shock (front and rear) for cat sx phil Booth?
thanks for answer

[nickhudson]

i stand to be corrected here but i am led to believe its 30wt front, 25wt back

[DaveG28]

any one says which oil is used on original build shock (front and rear) for cat sx phil Booth?
thanks for answer

Yep think it's 30/25 like the other guy said!

Guys, started running my Booth Cat, done a few rounds at Bury and again yesterday at Worksop (running a tamiya too). Started everything stock, then yesterday tried softening springs, and also then a rear roll bar. Observations/issues are:

1. On the higher traction Bury track it was ok but slightly lacking in side bite, which got worse on the lower grip surface at Worksop. Even dropping to yellow rear springs and red front it felt almost too stiff for the low grip surface.

2. Putting the roll bar in for the final, it really threw the car out taking off some jumps, the rear kicked right up on take off. Anyone else found this with the roll bar or might I have another issue I've not noticed?

Any help on a setup which might give more bite all round much appreciated!!

[Mossy]

Dave,

This is a different issue. Running yellow springs on the rear and 25wt means that you more than likely bottomed out going up the jump. The rear roll bar will allow the car to hold its shape better through the corners and when you land, stop the car from moving side to side when it pulls away. It wont make the rear kick up on take off.

Ive done some running at Bury over the winter, pm me and ill drop you my setup with a few tweaks which might better suit you.

Si

[Chrislong]

Hey Si, thank you for your advice yesterday mate. Your right that my car doesn't pivot, I did dial it out ages ago as the pivot I was getting was snatchy. Bringing some back with roll bars should help like you said, but putting the thin one on the rear for the final didn't seem to feel any different. Infact I couldn't even feel that I had taken the front one off either! :blush:

It may be because my damping is heavier than yours, I may lighten it up a little for Worksop just to try it.

[Mossy]

No worries mate. I ran my standard setup yesterday, 30 on 3 holes grey springs on the front, 25wt 3 holes red on back with a rear anti roll bar. I think u are too damped to be honest. Go softer and run throll bar, it stops the back collapsing over ripples and through the corners, but will allow you to generate the grip by running softer.

Yesterday was the best my car has been at Bury, and ill be running that setup at Worksop sunday.

Si

[Chrislong]

I'll try that next week, im doing my shocks tomorrow.

[frefon]

hello,
which result if y use the outer hole on wishbone for mounting shock (for stability of car and for jump) ?
Thanks for answer

[geerno]

;);)

[t.o. rob]

Hi Chris,

I tried your indoor setup, worked niiice. This week, I'm going to try Matt White's setup. Between yours and Simon's, they both have been great starting blocks at the track.

My Cat is getting more in-tuned with my driving style. Thanks for the setups.

[Minster68]

What would the benefits be in fitting the front 35T over drive diff?

[stefke]

What would the benefits be in fitting the front 35T over drive diff?

1. More front traction because the front wheels spin faster compared to the rear. I use it sometimes on very bumpy dirt tracks so I can "pull" the car out of trouble.
2. sometimes also usefull to compensate when using smaller diameter front wheels when you don't want to use a oneway.

[t.o. rob]

Has anyone used the alloy 7.5 Degree Yoke for indoor carpet? If not, when would you use it, for what type of track?

[frefon]

hi,
Witch tyres and insert are you using on wet astro (or when it is raining)?

[ulrich]

hi,
Witch tyres and insert are you using on wet astro (or when it is raining)?

Pink or green ballistic mini pin.. Pink in wet conditions and green between wet and dry.. insert, I will those a medium insert = green shucmuacher or similar

[Chrislong]

Has anyone used the alloy 7.5 Degree Yoke for indoor carpet? If not, when would you use it, for what type of track?

Me and Mossy are using them all the time now, they are just an all round improvement for all conditions and I highly recommend them! :thumbsup:

[stefke]

Me and Mossy are using them all the time now, they are just an all round improvement for all conditions and I highly recommend them! :thumbsup:

Do you use them together with the new alloy castor blocks ? Because it would decrease total castor significantly.

Edit : I think I'm mixing a few things (rake blocks). Nevermind this reply.

[t.o. rob]

I got to try the 7.5's with Adam Bailey's outdoor setup this past weekend at the outdoor track. It was a bit muddy, but manageable. I put the alloy upper tranny blocks as well. They are a few grams heavier, but it acted just great. It was my first time this season outdoors, and the JConcept DD's were hooking up just awesome. Next time I will try Simon's outdoor euro's setup, see how it hooks...

Thanks boys:thumbsup:

[stefke]

Me and Mossy are using them all the time now, they are just an all round improvement for all conditions and I highly recommend them! :thumbsup:

I tried them today at the Kampenhout track and i agree with Chris : they're definately an improvement. With the kit yokes, the CAT had a tendancy to oversteer after the apex of a turn. that's completely gone now.

[Somerwil]

With the kit yokes, the CAT had a tendancy to oversteer after the apex of a turn. that's completely gone now.

Now that's exactly the problem I had yesterday on our MVB track which is a completely different track than Stefke's Kampenhout. The car feels terrific on a straight line and is very quick turn in and through the first part of the turn up to the apex. After the apex the car feel tricky with the rear end trying to overtake.

I tried different things to solve this but didn't find a good solution for it. Everything I tried helped a bit but I hope to solve the problem with the 7.5's in combination with the overdrive pulley.

Will keep you updated.

Michael

[craigosh]

Quick Q..
Snapped one of the shock rod end on sunday and thought i had some spare but only had the longer ones for the turnbuckles, so put them on all round.

Got more droop now and the car felt pretty much spot on but do you reckon its gonna have a negative effect on the handling over using the short kit ones?

cheers lads

[F-1]

Hello! what setup i need for outdoor track with carpet surface? what shocks oil i need to use?

[Anemic_SluG]

Quick Q..
Snapped one of the shock rod end on sunday and thought i had some spare but only had the longer ones for the turnbuckles, so put them on all round.

Got more droop now and the car felt pretty much spot on but do you reckon its gonna have a negative effect on the handling over using the short kit ones?

cheers lads

It will be a positive if you need more droop, for washboard type sections or if you want more weight transfer to the rear of the car because of the extra extension in the front.

[frefon]

hi,
some questions?
1) with lower inner ballstud on the rear give more or less corner grip?:confused:
2) with lower inner ballstud on the front give more or less steering?:confused:
thanks for help:thumbsup:

[eichkay]

Ive recently brought a catsx, 4wd offroad is new to me.. i know setups for 2wd buggy and trucks but 4wd will be totally different i think..

Done allot of reading in this area and oople seems to have the best catsx info going, Im in australia and we run rather dry medium/high bump outdoor clay tracks, Going to test the cat out at a big event in 1.5weeks time and need a idea on ride height more than anything else .. currently have grey(f),red(r) springs with diffs in high position currently..

cheers.

[mikeyscott]

Motor got a bit warm today with a 7.5 Losi 23 with standard spur. I swear it didn't get that warm the previous week. The change this week has been the LRP Spere TC coming out and an RS Pro going in

[F-1]

Hello, what set-ups used Schumacher drivers on Euro's in Bilbao??

[Mossy]

I will try and post one later on


Si

[Losi_110]

Hi got a couple of quick questions, what would be the difference between using the 7.5 yokes and the 7.5 rake things or would it have different effects depending on where you take the angle off?
Also with the 7.5 yokes do you need to file them down like you do the normal ones?
Cheers

[Mossy]

Here is the setup i finished on at the Euros

Front -

Track Washers - 1mm front and back
Roll Bar - yes - 1.2
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Middle
Front Rake - 10 Degrees
Washers - 0mm
Front Link Bracket - 37mm
Washers on Hub - 0

Rear -
Wheel Base - Long
Toe In - 3mm Rear, .5mm front = 3.25 degrees
Anti Squat Washers - 2mm Rear, 0.5mm Front = 1.8 degrees
Rear Link Bracket - 37.5mm
Washers - 4mm
Shock Position Mount - Inside
Shock Position Wishbone - Inside
Hub Postion - Middle
Roll Bar - yes - 1.2


Shocks

Front -
40wt on 3 Holes drilled 55s
Schumacher old Grey Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Rear -
37.5wt on 3 Holes drilled 55s
Schumacher old Red Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Transmission-
Rear Diff Height - Low
Front Diff Height - Low
Layshaft Pulley - Pin Through
Front Drive - Diff
Gearing - 83 x 24 on Speed Passion 4.5 (ran a 5.5 when the temperature came up)
Internal Ratio - 34 Tooth Pulley

Tyres
Yellow Mini Pin all round, Mr O Foams.

Any questions ask away. This setup was good all week.

Si

[Kusal]

Hi all,

When I tried to mount the 'old' red and grey springs, the absorbers are completely pushed out and I have no droop; so I assume that some coils are cut off. If yes, how many coils do you cut off or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks:thumbsup:

[bigred5765]

nope no coils cut of,can you take some pics,?

[stegger]

Kusal, what length are your shocks, you may have to lengthen them ;)

[bigred5765]

heres a link to Si Moss's cat with said springs on http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day6/

[F-1]

Hello!! Can anyone reccomend me setup for wet astroturf track, and cold weather (about 5 degrees C)????

[tmaxxlosixxx]

im running cat sx indoors with high grip its got red springs rear and grey fronts 40wt oil all round iv got loads of roll any ideas how to reduce roll any help greatly recieved

[Thomas B]

Hello.

Need some help with my SX. It understeers very much. Drives very well exepts through corners.

Does anyone have a setup for carpet that makes the car quicker through corners?

Regards Thomas

[bigred5765]

need to no what your running first IE springs oil pistons etc

[Thomas B]

Big bore shocks
Rear, AE 35 wt oil, 2.5 spring, 4 holes.
Front, 40 wt oil, 4.0 spring, 4 holes.
2 mm under ball on the link mount in front.
Std link mount in front and rear.
Have the S1 chassi.

Hope thats help.

Thanks Thomas

[bigred5765]

are indoor set up for high grip carpet would be
rear 32.5wt oil 5 or 6 hole pistons 2.5 springs drive shafts level
37.5mm rear link 2mm washer under ball stud
front 4.5 spring 4 hole pistons 42.5 oil 12.5 degree front yokes
44mm front link 0 or 1mm washer under front ball stud
and Matty likes 2mm track washer virtually every were we run
and cut tyres spikes of to suite

[Thomas B]

thank you bigred!

have a race next weekend and dont have any time coming week for testing setups. my third 4wd race ever. second on carpet.

[juergen_jl]

Has someone experience with the FAB? See at the moment I`m racing without, but this item is a little bit too costy just to check it out....

same with the 7,5° front yokes. My general problem is, that the car "flips" on high grip carpet. Does the 7,5° yokes improve the "smoothness" in the curves? OK, I have to cut the spikes, but at turning in, I have too much grip at the front, so it flips.

Juergen

[PeteMason]

hi i am running my cat at my local club and it is going great i am just not too sure on the gearing side of things i am running a 6.5 sp 82 or 83 spur with a 27 pin do you think this is ok its seams to good well on it but would like to try a 28 pin but not sure if this will be too much i race on grass at batley buggy club its not comeing off realy hot or anything just a 28 pin sounds very high too me. Any advice anyone could give would be great thanks.

[bigred5765]

that does sound a little over geared, 6.5 on a smallish track we ran 22 82 largish indoor on rubberised cork, 24 82 out door at batley we ran 24- 25

[PeteMason]

thanks for that will give gearing ago on sunday

[superstu55]

Hi, can somebody explain the pro's & cons of 7.5 and 12.5 degree yokes on the sx2, basically how would the car feel different, i currently have the standard plastic 10 degree items fitted but was thinking of trying the option parts but not sure which way to go? I race on tight twisty carpet indoors?? Any advise appreciated..

[bigred5765]

7.5 will give u more turn going in to a corner less coming out
12.5 will give less going in more comming out
on the sx and sx2 we ran 12.5 all the time

[superstu55]

Thanks very much :thumbsup:

[superstu55]

Is it normal for a sx2 to wear the front tyres much quicker than the rears or is it my set up? Car handles/drives well but the fronts are well past their best when the rears have several races left in them, my previous car (losi) wore the tyres even all the way round??

[johnni boi]

does your car have an overdrive pully in the front? :confused:

[superstu55]

I dont think so, i had it as a phil booth pre built from schumacher so i'm pretty sure they dont put the front overdrive pulley in.