DEX410v4 is all most here

[dMITIj]

Yes sir it's a live :thumbsup:
http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex410v4/

[AfroP]

looks essentially the same car

nothing really new

the slipper is the newest feature but a V3 owner could fit it easily

I also find it annoying that they are advertising that you can color co-ordinate your car with alloy anodised hop ups, I'd still rather go with exotek or tresrey as they are miles cheaper than the Durango equivalent.

over all, a very under whelming kit for a car thats so was so highly anticipated

[Maximus3d2000]

may sound silly, but does anyone know the artist or song used in the video???

[Origineelreclamebord]

Were you really expecting much more? :eh?: Consider the following:

- Durango have been testing a lot, but even things that help performance and would be in demand (such as an alu +8mm chassis for the DEX210) have not been released yet.
- Previously released Durango evolutions have been updated cars, not totally overhauled cars.
- A lot of developments that recently became public (such as the 410 side-by-side saddle layout) are too recent to be implemented in a production car.
- With the competition recently (both in 2WD and 4WD), they can't afford to wait for 6 months with a new release if they want to retain their market share.
- Durango may well be able to earn more money by chopping developments into smaller evolutions.

That said, I do agree their anouncement and then the wait to an actual kit page makes big expectations. Also, it seems they're putting updates on the car that are not worth advertizing with... new ball studs and ball cups won't make someone switch to a V4 from another brand, it'll only keep Durango drivers at Durango.

[neallewis]

Bigger body clips and purple shock o-rings seem to be the most important changes here.

[OneKiwi]

and a harder diff house? I never had any problems with a diff house and had a shed load lying around.

[discothesnake]

How do I go about getting those big body clips?? Could really do with them.

[mattr]

They've got UJs all round listed on the parts page, but only props shown on the v4 kit. TBH. It's only the slipper and the UJs I'm interested in.
I've already got all the rest of the hop ups.

[neallewis]

How do I go about getting those big body clips?? Could really do with them.

I know amazing. I think I must have to get the kit just to get them. :thumbsup:

[Origineelreclamebord]

They've got UJs all round listed on the parts page, but only props shown on the v4 kit. TBH. It's only the slipper and the UJs I'm interested in.
I've already got all the rest of the hop ups.

It shows CVDs for the suspension on the pictures, and interestingly enough it shows that too for the spare/standard parts' list... So I'm not so sure it actually had UJs all around.

[sly]

Check out the durando team driver at 1.56- 2.00 minutes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWPzgR6Ydr0&list=PLStHdwPpg9Oo3dwJIiBkYMQNXnaJMLOxn&index=29

[Northy]

Actually one of the most interesting things I noticed on that car they used at the worlds was that it looked like it had different rear bulkheads and no, or less kick up on the rear chassis - allowing lower hinge pins and diff outdrives.

[Fabs]

Just to clear out things regarding the driveshafts:

The V4 has front and rear centre UJs, but the driveshafts for each wheel are still CVDs. They are not the same as the V3 however, as they have been modified to reduce chatter.

UJs for each wheel will be available as an option only.

The car from the WC is not the V4, it was made for this event only, so really if you want to talk about that car, it has been discussed at length on the WC thread in the TD section, I feel this would be the best place to talk about it.

Fabs

[Origineelreclamebord]

Just to clear out things regarding the driveshafts:

The V4 has front and rear centre UJs, but the driveshafts for each wheel are still CVDs. They are not the same as the V3 however, as they have been modified to reduce chatter.


Good to know...the axles do appear to have the same model number and listed as a standard part for the 410 V3 on TD's website though? :eh?:

[ekt]

Tower Hobbies has #TD310438 and #TD310439 listed as the front and rear driveshafts for the v4

[Adam Skelding]

Tower Hobbies has #TD310438 and #TD310439 listed as the front and rear driveshafts for the v4

Those part numbers are correct for the NEW CVD driveshaft. These items are a big improvement over the previous version.

The part numbers for the option front and rear UJ's are:

TD310422
TD310423

[micholix]

Those part numbers are correct for the NEW CVD driveshaft. These items are a big improvement over the previous version.

The part numbers for the option front and rear UJ's are:

TD310422
TD310423

Hello Mr. Skelding,

Can you tell us please the differents from the new CVD's, to the previous one?

Thanks in advance and

[Adam Skelding]

The angle between the pin at the input end and the pin @ the axle end is now 90 degrees.

Before they were parallel.

[Origineelreclamebord]

The angle between the pin at the input end and the pin @ the axle end is now 90 degrees.

Before they were parallel.

So the rest of the 'old' 2.0mm pin CVDs is re-usable/interchangeable (Axle, Cross-joint)? :)

[andys]

Bigger body clips and purple shock o-rings seem to be the most important changes here.

That was my thought too.
One less thing to buy until of course Durango do another 'Buy 2 for the price of one' deal :)

[Fabs]

So the rest of the 'old' 2.0mm pin CVDs is re-usable/interchangeable (Axle, Cross-joint)? :)

Yes, only the dogbones have been changed.

[G7-J]

I just Pre-ordered the v4 :thumbsup:

I have never had a Durango before so the v4 looks to be a nice car to start out with them. I can see why people with v3's would rather stick with them and just update a couple of parts here and their.

I'm just going to have a quick excitement fit right now :thumbsup::woot::woot::woot::thumbsup:

Sorry for that but this will be my first ever new brought Racing buggy

[chuckie stella]

Almost ready for West Bridgeford this Saturday!

White wheels WILL be added though:lol:

[traffman]

Why change a proven formula? Porsche have been evolving there 911 for 50 years!

But i reckon i will go for something different or just stick with what i am running.

[schmacher]

Almost ready for West Bridgeford this Saturday!

White wheels WILL be added though:lol:

BOOO !!!!

[mattr]

Why change a proven formula? Porsche have been evolving there 911 for 50 years!And they've STILL got the engine in the wrong place. If they'd done it right in the first place it wouldn't have taken 50 years of tweaking to get it sorted. ;)

On the plus side, they have learnt a hell of a lot about traction and stability control systems..........

[Col]

But i reckon i will go for something different or just stick with what i am running.

:eh?:

[mark christopher]

confused by this statement

"Front and rear wheel independent traction control is managed by the DEX410v4s new secret weapon, the Two-Way Slipper Clutch. Designed to allow the vehicles’ front or rear wheels to be off the ground and still provide clutch slip to the other two wheels, this custom designed clutch unit gives the DEX410v4 the ability to stay ‘planted’ on any surface."

if I hold my current buggy or my old Durango v full fat with its front or rear wheels of the floor and the opposite end on the floor and gun the throttle the clutch slips:confused:

[ekt]

The new Two-Way Slipper Clutch allows for the front and rear to slip independent of each other. With the current slipper the front and rear are locked together, so they slip together, if that makes sense :)

[mark christopher]

Designed to allow the vehicles’ front or rear wheels to be off the ground and still provide clutch slip to the other two wheels,

The above part of the quote, a normal slipper does that?
I'm guessing its like the old hot bodies d4 but that most locked it back up!

[ekt]

The current slipper will make the entire drive train slip in that situation. The side touching the ground will have the clutch slip with the 2-way.

Don't know much about the D4, but if this is its slipper, it has the same function as the current slipper.
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewhbd4/slipper01.jpg

[sime46]

The fronts can slip independently of the the rears.

[Origineelreclamebord]

The current slipper will make the entire drive train slip in that situation. The side touching the ground will have the clutch slip with the 2-way.

Don't know much about the D4, but if this is its slipper, it has the same function as the current slipper.
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewhbd4/slipper01.jpg

Seems like the overlapping part of the two outdrives has a hexagonal shape, making it slip equally between front and rear. If the protruding part were to be machined to a round shape, then it should indeed work as a slipper that slips individually between front and rear (like the DEX410V4 slipper seems to be constructed). Worth noting is that (afaik) pressure can't be set differently between front and rear with such a construction.

[shark]

The fronts can slip independently of the the rears.

Fs2 styley dude ?

[Adam Skelding]

The front and rear slipper out-drives can slip independently of each other as they are not physically locked together.
They are held together by the screw, thrust race and spring assembly that runs through the centre of the slipper.
Think of it as a diff assembly but with no balls, just plates of friction material.

If you hold the front wheels of a car with the 'dual slipper' in you would still be able to rev the car up without it trying to smash you in the face, the rear wheels would still turn.

For most normal applications/tracks, the standard pads work fine on both front and rear. you can however tune the slip characteristics by drilling holes in the pads (reduces surface area) and since the pressure is constant between the plates then.

P=F/A => F=PA

Reducing area reduces the force applied to that 'end' of the drive line.

Typically, we have found a good balance is to drill a standard pad with 6 x 2mm holes equi-spaced. This works well on slippy floors where drive to the rear needs to be controlled.

Also, keep an eye out for different pads :)

[Gayo]

Typically, we have found a good balance is to drill a standard pad with 6 x 2mm holes equi-spaced. This works well on slippy floors where drive to the rear needs to be controlled.


Just to be sure, you are using this drilled pad on the rear, don't you?
Interesting stuff.

[Adam Skelding]

Yes. Sorry Rear pad drilled.

[micholix]

I've just received my two-way slipper TD210008 and i found some differents in the manual, that was included?
The trust bearing is in my manual between the two slipper parts and not outsid by the screw-head!
On the manual at the TD web page and in the manual of the v4 it show the trust bearing at the outside, by the screw-head?

I think it should be on the outside, but can someone please tell me where to install right?

Thanks in advance and

[ekt]

It is meant to be installed on the outside.
http://www.team-durango.com/graphics/parts/TD210008/www/TD210008_3m.jpg?m=20130702100002

[rcjunky]

I got the new arms, diff housing, diff gears and battery strap in today :)

[Snowey]

Does anyone know when these kits are going to Land? History states that patience is a necessary quality while waiting for a Durango release, but surly in 2014 it cant be that hard to put an accurate date on it! :rolleyes:

[andys]

Are many people going to buy this kit I wonder?
It does not look like there's much in it for current Durango 410 owners, and given all the other nice kits around, personally if I was to buy another car right now - it would be from a different manufacturer.

[rcjunky]

I'm ugrading my v3 to v4. Got most of the stuff in, still on the fence with the c-hubs and dual slipper, but I got all the plastics including the diff parts, hd hinge pins, center universals and o-rings came in today, body doesn't seem to be available yet. I think that was all that was changed. Don't have the new shock shafts yet, but already have the new pistons installed. The UJ's should make the car nicer to run.

[Dino_D]

I'm ugrading my v3 to v4. Got most of the stuff in, still on the fence with the c-hubs and dual slipper, but I got all the plastics including the diff parts, hd hinge pins, center universals and o-rings came in today, body doesn't seem to be available yet. I think that was all that was changed. Don't have the new shock shafts yet, but already have the new pistons installed. The UJ's should make the car nicer to run.

The type B pistons are just pre drilled in 2 or 3 holes. Honestly, using the single or dual taper white machined pistons are better and smoother. I just wished they made taper machine blanks instead of just the 4,5,and 6 holes. But you can just as easily redrill, and seal them up

Going from 17 to 19 degrees hubs is going to reduce low speed over steer and make the car easier to handle on bumps. Moving to 21 would be better on bumpy fast flowing tracks. For small technical indoors, you might need as much low speed steering as possible so the stock 17 would be fine.
As for the dual slipper, it just allows you to put the power down smoother on low bite and bumpy tracks.
The thing is there is also UJoints for the front and rear side transmissions. Its not a standard part in the v4 either. It would help free up the drivetrain on high bite conditions, and also allowing better movement on bumpy tracks. However, it the standard CVDs have more drive train bind which yields more grip on low bite conditions.

[Squidzilla]

Im really new to RC racing, and will be getting one of these. I am just wondering however what any of you experienced 410 guys would recommend for steering servo?

[charlesk]

Im really new to RC racing, and will be getting one of these. I am just wondering however what any of you experienced 410 guys would recommend for steering servo?

Depends on budget really.
You want a digital, full size, metal gear servo.
2 most populat are the Savox1258tg and the Ace DS1313, but there is others.
These are decent: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-full-size-racing-digital-servo-hs-tg-ultra-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359790
And a bit cheaper.
How much can you/want to spend?

[Squidzilla]

Thanks Charles for the input, I have purchased the suggested Savox, I figured it is worth going for quality items on parts like the Servo.

... now its just a waiting game for the V4 to arrive :eh?:

[rcjunky]

yup, 1258 is awesome, after the servo saver backed out I just locked it up and took 1 solid hit to a front wheel while turning and no issues here :)

[Bman]

Yes the 1258 is good but be careful at the previous post. I did strip a set of gears in mine when I WAS not running the servo saver. I decided to try the arm from the DESC and it only last about 12-13 runs. The servo saver does more than you think, even when locked down.

[mattr]

I'm just upgrading the half shafts (to the UJs), and I've put a set of type B wishbones in the order just to try out, already got d-joints. Double slipper is on the list for when I get back to the track....... which might be a while!

[Jason A]

Whats that i see in stock.

The Team Durango DEX410v4 is here in the UK...

:thumbsup:

[rcjunky]

We've already got them here in Canada ;) I've got most of the new parts, but I guess I waiting too long to order the dual slipper, not showing an eta of late April, won't have it for Motorama :( Has anyone compared the normal diff parts to the new plastic parts? My 410 ran a lot cooler then expected with the new UJ's and plastic diff parts, I was very impressed.

[Snowey]

Yey, it's here. Delivered today. Thanks MB MODELS!!:)