New Conversion Kit for Tamiya DF-03 Dark Impact

[KennyeeChan]

A big chassis from KM-RC.com :o
I saw it on this web link!! It's attractive enough to buy~
Dark Impact Conversion Kit (http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_48_49_50&products_id=114&osCsid=e17ad3a12c343fe5014cffd61f7435c7)

- High Quality KCI Graphite Chassis

- Shorter Linkage between the Steering part and the servo

- Structure weight redistributed with saddle packed battery

http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/catalog/images/DIK-100-2.JPG

http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/catalog/images/DIK-100-3.JPG

[jimmy]

yea it does look nice, the cells look nice and close together to keep it narrow. the last time I saw it all the alloy was silver, I guess this is the finished item ?!?
Looks ace, I hope the servo fits under the newer shells like the Keen Hawk, I guess it should.

[KennyeeChan]

yea it does look nice, the cells look nice and close together to keep it narrow. the last time I saw it all the alloy was silver, I guess this is the finished item ?!?
Looks ace, I hope the servo fits under the newer shells like the Keen Hawk, I guess it should.

You have seen this chassis before?

[DCM]

This is the KMC conversion, that moves the cells from central to 3+3 arrangement, plus it moves the servo much further forward, although I do think the servo will fit, what put me off this conversion is the fact that the weight distribution and component placement has changed, and the one reason people like the DF-03 was the component placement and weight.

But I am sure Jimmy would be willing to test it, if not, I would!!!

[FifteenthNeo]

I quite fancy this conversion myself, was considering buying a DI and seeing this, has made my mind up. Just concerned about the steering servo fitment with the stock shell, would any other shell fit???

Is the conversion release date, 15th November, a confirmed realease date?

[jimmy]

I saw this conversion at a hobby show many months ago, I think it had SSG carbon chassis and didn't look anywhere near as nice as this. I was also looking at it last week and all the alloy was raw and not anodised, these photos must be very recent because afaik they weren't there last week.

The weight move isn't a big issue for me - and might even be better since the weight is more centralised (front to back) so might turn quicker, it looks great. I'm sure they tested the servo placement with the Impact shell but a shell like the Keen Hawk might be a little different up front. We'll have to see.

[PaulRotheram]

wonder if them servo mounts will fit a xx4/x5.. could make a few bob on them if so.

[neiloliver]

I have to get me one of these! Lee Davies at Oswestry has a DI and the carbon conversion has sold it for me. Are you doing a review Jimmy?

[jimmy]

YES!
I will be reviewing the KEEN HAWK (just different shell) around late december time. Along with a host of upgrades for a follow-on review, with the KM RC chassis conversion, Yeah Racing alloy upgrades, Square carbon towers and alloy CVDs, Tamiya option One Way / Slipper / Shocks (if I can afford them).

The exact details are to be decided

Everything thats good basically. :)

Thanks to RC Square (via RC Champ) - KM-RC - Yeah Racing, for their help.

[DCM]

Jim, when you come to it, grab me on MSN for some build tips, I am going to wrag mine around in the break between rounds tomorrow, haven't used it for ages. got the Tamiya centre one-way, Tamiya shocks, B4 turnbuckles, DF02 CVD's, Carbon towers, if it goes well, I will get the 3Racing conversion, I like their stuff (shame they wouldn't send stuff to you to reveiw, maybe I should get on them Jim, lol)

[jimmy]

I certainly will mate, its one of the most exciting cars around I think - almost wish I had reviewed my Impact earlier, ah well.

[DCM]

will do, it is silly stuff like shock limiting, dremmeling etc....

[jimmy]

Are the df03 shocks the best ones to get ? Or are tamiya coming out with more ? They look different to those on the TRF 510x is why I ask.
Can the car accept different types of springs, like Associated ?

I've not ordered the Tamiya hop ups yet - I was waiting for the front one-way but I've yet to see it for sale.

[DCM]

I can try, they seem to be a standard size, and the DF03 shocks are rather good, although they do give a little too much drrop (freaking loads more than you need on the rear), so may cause trouble with running dogbones, but some fuel tubing solves that. The DF03 shocks are top notch to build, fill and bleed.

[Elliott Hopkins]

Hey this is good news an OFFICIAL Oople review of the DF-03 chassis. They are always very indepth and very class.

I've had a DI since the middle of the summer and it's my favorite car. Apart from some mechanical difficulties it is very sturdy and flys like a Harrier.

I'm new here, is there a place I can formally introduce myself?

I've been lurking around these parts for a couple of years, I signed up to the Doughty boards to get info on the CML racetrack and thought I'd sign up here to heap praise on Jimmy and his magic camera (outstanding work mate, you make the cars look so cool). I'll keep my replys short and infrequent because I may have bored DCM off the Tamiyaclub forums with my ramblings about the Dark Impact. :)

Elliott.

[DCM]

ah, I lost me log-in on there dude, so haven't been on in a while.

I just got the diff out-drives this morning (with the postie grumbling about MORE asian packages...) so will post to let you know if the front outdrives fit the rear.

[jimmy]

are front are rear diffs different ?

[DCM]

the parts they use are different, but when built up, they look the same, I will have a look later and build up the rear diff with the front outputs and see if it works.

[Elliott Hopkins]

'TrevCoult' from Tamiyaclub pointed out something interesting the other day, particularly if you want to run a 'balls out' motor.

The Super Astute pinions, which go down to about 18 or 19T are the same 0.5 module type as the kit DI gears. They are still available on the 'Bay for £5 a pair. These:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000560461&I=LXEX40&P=K

should also work.

Elliott.

[FifteenthNeo]

are front are rear diffs different ?

The front and rear do seem a bit different. Sorry bout pic quality. Click the image for a better pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DIoutdrives.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DIoutdrives.jpg)

[DCM]

or run the RW layshaft with a B4 slipper and run 48dp gears.....

I know they are different, but when built, I think they may give the same size...

[jimmy]

Did you say it is possible to run 48dp with .5 module steve? as thats what I'll have to do since I have no .5 pinions

[DCM]

you can, but it will be noisey and bugger up the spur within a few runs.

[FifteenthNeo]

or run the RW layshaft with a B4 slipper and run 48dp gears.....

I know they are different, but when built, I think they may give the same size...

Sorry for the questions guys, but there is a definate learning with this Dark Impact for me as my background is messing with crawlers;)

But, it looks like I might plum for the "RW layshaft with a B4 slipper and run 48dp gears". So can someone PM me with regards to what is a good size pinion/spur to use and also where/how to go about getting the needed parts.

Again my apologies for the nooby "Q's":confused:

[jimmy]

Oh well, .5 pinions it is then :jimmeh

[DCM]

I would think a range of 24 to 29 would do you, that would cover stock/19t up to a 10 or a 12 turn motor, go with the 78 or 81 tooth spur gear.

www.rwracing.co.uk and either email or call him, the shaft isn't up on the website.

TAM DF-03
78 81
PIN 17 14.02 14.56
18 13.24 13.75
19 12.54 13.02
20 11.91 12.37
21 11.35 11.78
22 10.83 11.25
23 10.36 10.76
24 9.93 10.3
25 9.53 9.90
26 9.16 9.52
27 8.82 9.16
28 8.51 8.84

[jimmy]

who makes .5 pinions ? I trust its not just tamiya ?

[Elliott Hopkins]

Jimmy,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=Robinson+Racing+Metric+Pinion+Ge ar+12t&FVPROFIL=++

Robinson Racing do. They do a full range as well.

They work in my Madcap and Vanquish.

Elliott.

[Rob Fitzgerald]

I nearly have enough bits to get started on the build of my Dark Impact - just waiting for postie to fetch the last bits.

My spec looks like this ...

Single piece rear diff outdrives (from stellamodels)
3 racing stainless turnbuckles
3 racing motor plate
centre one way
white wheels (bound to be faster)
Tamiya spring set
DF02 universals front and rear
yeah racing locking hex hubs
RW layshaft and B4 slipper

I have dremelled my chassis to accept my LiPo pack (looks stock unless you look closely)

I will be using the std shocks (with the Tamiya spring kit) and towers etc for the 'Q-Ship' effect.

Steve can you suggest a ratio for a 11x2

[sim]

Robinson calls these "Metric 48 pitch" but they really are the same size as Tamiya 0.6 module (Tamiya calls them AV pinions nowadays).

They are NOT 0.5 module and they are a lot bigger than imperial 48 pitch.

If you dig out your Tamiya pinions from your M-03, DF-02, TT-01, TB-01, TA-05 (stock), you will see what 0.6 module looks like.

DF-03 is 0.5 module. As far as I know DF-03 and Super Astute are the only cars with 0.5 module, so I don't think Robinson are going to make these pinions.

[jimmy]

I'll what the 48dp pinions fit like, but I cant see it being too hard to fit a b4 spur on the tamiya slipper, but we'll see! Not much point reviewing a slipper that no one can buy.

[Elliott Hopkins]

I'm wrong about the Robinson pinions fitting the DI then. OK. I was intending to check them last night. But didn't get round to it.

Elliott.

[jimmy]

Make everything 48dp I say

[DCM]

Rob, 78/23 I would start with and go larger on the pinion from there, I ran a 78/28 on a 19t on the weekend.

[Rob Fitzgerald]

Thanks Steve

[DCM]

This is my B4 Slipper in place....

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/DF-03%20Slipper/slipperDI-7.jpg

[FifteenthNeo]

This is my B4 Slipper in place....

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/DF-03%20Slipper/slipperDI-7.jpg (http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/DF-03%20Slipper/slipperDI-7.jpg)

Any chance of a build up or part numbers for the B4 slipper and RW layshaft.

Looks good btw;)

[DCM]

you need to email RW Racing for the shaft (www.rwracing.co.uk)(neil@rwracing.co.uk)

B4 Slipper Hub x2 (alloy bit) 9604
B4 Slipper Pad x2 9603
B4 81t Spur 9651
B4 Slipper Spring 9605

The layshaft also uses an M3 nut to keep the hardware metric.

[DCM]

Just to let you know, the front Diff outdrives fit the rear, no problems, I just fitted mine, that will stop the diff plate slipping on the plastic holders, best I go find a hairy motor then!!!

[FifteenthNeo]

you need to email RW Racing for the shaft (www.rwracing.co.uk (http://www.rwracing.co.uk))(neil@rwracing.co.uk)

B4 Slipper Hub x2 (alloy bit) 9604
B4 Slipper Pad x2 9603
B4 81t Spur 9651
B4 Slipper Spring 9605

The layshaft also uses an M3 nut to keep the hardware metric.

Thanks for the parts numbers, much appreciated ;)

Im on the case :cool:

[Rob Fitzgerald]

So if the fronts fit the rears why on earth did Tamiya make that 2 piece thingy then ?

weird :eek:

[jimmy]

Not built mine so not entirely sure what you are talking about.. but if its in the rear and it slips under load - which is the impression I'm getting. Could it be a primitive form of drivetrain protection, in other words a slipper ?
Or am I totally off target there ?
Like I said ive not even see the part so forgive me :)

[DCM]

The diff plates are indexed, so 'shouldnt' slip on the plate, plus, once it slips, it just gets worse.

The only reason I can thing of, is cost, maybe...

[jimmy]

Is it possible to glue some thin sand paper type stuff to the back to give some friction on the diffhalf and stop it slipping?
I don't remember what had that but I reckon it was either my procat or an old RC10.

[Rob Fitzgerald]

Before I ordered the one piece item I decided that when I built mine up (with the std parts) that I would superglue it together. When you look at the manual it will make sense.

[DCM]

I did that rob, I degrease both parts, used superglue, left them set, they still slipper grrrrrrr

[Northy]

Is it possible to glue some thin sand paper type stuff to the back to give some friction on the diffhalf and stop it slipping?
I don't remember what had that but I reckon it was either my procat or an old RC10.

ProCat Jimmy.

G

[FifteenthNeo]

Looking at the KM-RC website today, they have removed the "Worldwide Release date 15th Nov" quote. And have listed it in their NOVEMBER NEW ITEM.

Still says Pre order now on the bottom of the Dark Impact page though. So it might/might not be out yet. Fingers crossed soon though.

[FifteenthNeo]

The 3Racing chassis turned up this morning. Came already assembled. Looks pretty tidy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1049.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1049.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1051.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1051.jpg)

[DCM]

how much was it in total?? looks good though, just wish they had left a little more room on the rear of the chassis to mount the TRF suspension blocks...

[jimmy]

lol, you love those blocks don't you steve.

3racing didn't want to play with me, but let us know how you get on with it. someone on another forum pointed out that side-by-side cells might short out on that ??

[FifteenthNeo]

The cost before postage was $103. I grabbed some titanium turnbuckles too. Toal price including turnbuckles and 3 day postage from Hong Kong was approx £75

[Elliott Hopkins]

It's available from Stella for just less than £50. The uggo silver graphite is a bit more.

Are you planning on running the DI at the CML raceway Neo? I notice from your Tamiyclub profile you are local.

Elliott.

[FifteenthNeo]

Hi Elliot, well I bought the DI as a project really, but since found this website and also heard of CML Raceway. So, ended up yesterday buying myself a B4FT. ALthough, im having fun with the learning curve invloved in charging cells. Just got me a Pro Peak Elite and am close to a panic attack figuring it all out :study: so as soon as I can work out how to charge cells properly I will be up CML as soon as possible. (any links to charging terminology and HOW TO's would be appreciated anyone. Please feel fee to PM me)

[DCM]

I am tempted, but I would have to heatshrink the cells or find a way of insulating the carbon fibre.

The reason for wanting them blocks is to take the suspension loading off the rear gearbox and give some adjustability.

[FifteenthNeo]

I know what you mean. I have a couple of stick packs that im gonna chuck in it to have a test drive, so insulation aint a prob. Although race packs would be iffy.

[DCM]

can you whack a picture up of a pack of cells installed, to see if there is room for foam padding or something on the carbon??

[FifteenthNeo]

Give me 10 mins ;)

[Elliott Hopkins]

Wouldn't you have to machine off the current hinge pin mounts on the rear gearbox, so you will be able to mount the blue alloy ones?

What cells do you have Neo?

Elliott.

[FifteenthNeo]

Pic below. There is approx 3mm of movement I reckon around the pack.

Elliot, im using 3600's at the moment, but have some 4200's coming.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1054.jpg

[Elliott Hopkins]

Neo,

when I was looking for battery info, I culled a bunch of info from this thread:

http://www.doughtyuk.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1321

Elliott.

[DCM]

Yes, you would have ti dremmel them off, but I think it is well worth the effort, the biggest issue is the front mount behind the motor, but I reckon it is quite do-able.

they are pretty snug in there, aren't they, shame you don't have some sidexside packs to check, defo no room for corally connectors.... would have to go to deans.

[FifteenthNeo]

how much was it in total?? looks good though, just wish they had left a little more room on the rear of the chassis to mount the TRF suspension blocks...


Just out of interest, whats the spacing between the mounting holes on the TRF sus blocks?
Reason being, the chassis comes with a carbon spacer for the rear which is about 5mm think and sits between the bottom of the rear gearbox and the rear of the chassis

[DCM]

the distance between hinge pins is exactly the same as the standard TRF blocks, hence the reason for nagging 3Racing about it.

[FifteenthNeo]

Nearly done. Not quite a TRF501X, but it'll do me :p

[/URL]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1064.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1064.jpg)

[URL="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1062.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1062.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1062.jpg)

[DCM]

is it possible to raise the gearbox more withough causing issue's?? soooo tempted to buy one

[FifteenthNeo]

I think it is possible to raise it without too much trouble. If you look in the first pic there is an extra plate tha fits between the gearbox and the bottom of the chassis. You can always fit a thicker plate in there and then just use spacers where the front part of the rear gearbox mounts onto the chassis (second pic)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSCF0002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/Spacers.jpg

[jimmy]

whats the idea of raising the gearbox ?

[DCM]

there maybe a clearance issue on a front suspension mount with the motor plate and motor, so it would save making a new motor plate.

[Elliott Hopkins]

In the Tamiya DF-03 shock kit there are four blue anodized metal spacers (it's a quality box of bits if the very smallest parts are anodized) that are supposed to sit between the plastic ball end links at the bottom of the shock and the bottom spring mount. They are a bit pointless. These pieces will fit perfectly where you've put the silicone O-rings on the hinge pins.

Elliott.

[DCM]

those spacers are there to raise the spring cups out of the way of the wishbones and hopefully stop the buggers from popping off...

Now, I am in two minds, do I buy the 3Racing conversion or an F103GT.... bugger

[FifteenthNeo]

Finished apart from Leccy bits:eh?:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/DSC_1073.jpg

[DCM]

sweeeeeet

[Elliott Hopkins]

In case you thought I was making all this up, I've just uploaded pics of my DI to photobucket. They should be available here:

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r303/ElliottHopkins/ (http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r303/ElliottHopkins/)

The paint is Pactra's racing red, rushed and blotchy. Minor hop-ups include Tamiya DF-03 threaded shocks, DI slipper clutch, smaller than stock Tamiya dish wheels with Ballistic minispikes (welcome to England) and (essential) 3 Racing Ti screws. Modest upgrades in importamnt areas thus far. In terms of electorincs, LRP IPC V7.1 (still the best speedo ever made, I don't trust speedos I could hide under my small change), Hitec Gem receiver a perfect fit, KO metal gear servo and normally a Peak Dynasty 19T spec V2 dalek head. All good stuff.

Elliott.

[Elliott Hopkins]

I had my first race meeting at the CML Raceway today. In practice, I had a little crack with the DI. It handled really well. It was raining heavily most of the day and when I got out of shape on a few of the slippery jumps, I could correct myself well. When I took a corner badly. I could correct it. The Dark Impact flattered my driving. I might run it in the summer.

(By the way, I haven't had any experience of contemporary 4WD cars, so I wouldn't have anything to compare it with, but I was pleased with it).

Elliott.

[max_crox]

Hi there,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how much weight is saved when using the 3 Racing chassis.
Cheers
Mark

[xx4-nutter]

hello there,

i was wondering, do you run the bevel gear diffs, or ball differentials in the car?

and do these cars sound nice and smooth, or do they sound like the tamiya TL -01 series ?

[DCM]

ball diffs, and thet are a little noisey, but that was mine on full chat with the CVD's chattering.....

[Elliott Hopkins]

I reckon all the gears wear out quicker than you'd expect and the gearcases wear a bit too. This however may have been down to the dusty summer I had with the car.

ALTHOUGH, the noise itself may be down to the space on the insides of the gear boxes not deadening any mechanical noise.

Not much of a comparison, but my Associated buggy is much quieter and that gearbox case hugs the gears.

Elliott.

[HairySteve]

Hello chaps
Thought I'd sign up to this forum as it seems to be full of knowledgable people (unlike certain other forums I know of...:rolleyes:) and introduce myself. I've been racing off road electrics for about 3 years on and off, mainly on wooden floor at a nearby club (FORCC at Faversham, for anyone in the Kent area of the UK) but I have raced on grass a few times. I prefer grass, you actually have traction! :D I've owned a DF-03 since may or whenever they were released in this country, and been steadily modifying it into something almost unrecogniseable...:o
http://images.domino.org/d/90557-1/DCP_1432.JPG
It's got all the Tamiya hopups (including 2 extra heatsink bars), a cooling fan above the motor, full CVD's (including the 5 stars centre one which I found on Ebay), a mixture of Square and 5 Stars aluminium steering cranks and knuckles, and the newest additions 3 racing carbon chassis, front and rear towers, and diff outputs (kept breaking the stock Tamiya ones:wtf:). I've also crowbarred a Trakpower lithium battery into the chassis, aided and abetted by my trusty dremel and hacksaw :D I got the Trakpower from the rep as a sample to try out, it was one of the first ones in the country, workign in a model shop does have its advantages ;) Anyway just thought I'd say hello, and it's nice to see a site full of electric off road stuff :cool:
-Steve

[DCM]

nice one, certainly full of shinny blue bits!!!

[Elliott Hopkins]

*pfft* I can see your problem right there. You won't get much traction without tyres... :o

:) Nice car, just a nice amount of blue.

Unknowledgable websites? I hope you mean Radiocontrolzone and not Tamiyaclub.

Elliott.

[Eotz]

Hi.

This is the first time that i writte in this forum. I'm from Bilbao, in the Basque country so forgive my bad English.
I always race with tamiya cars. The last 2 years I raced with one DF-02 but this summer i bought my DF-03, directly with sleeper, one-way, turnbluckes, 5 Star carbon shock towers. I also use DF-02 shafts and GMP shocks. I only raced once with the car and I should say that it was incredible, very handle, smooth aceleration. In the same level of the Losi XXX4 or the CAT 3000 of one friend.
My question is the next?. Which is the behavior of 3Racing's carbon chasis over the track? Is better that the stock plastic chasis?.
Now I'm in your country for a couple of weeks, in Cranfield.

Bye :rolleyes:

[HairySteve]

Hi Eotz,
I've not raced my DF-03 since I fitted the carbon chassis (and I'm working late shift this week so I can't go this week! :mad:) but I had a quick rip round the car park the other day and it does seem to make a slight difference to the handling. It makes the car a bit lighter as well. I've made up an under tray for mine which protects the electrics from getting any water in them, I could do with getting some better ones vacformed up :) The only problem I had with the carbon chassis (apart from having to take a hacksaw to it because my Trakpower battery didn't fit! :rolleyes:) is that the way they've retained the battery door restricts the space you have for fitting the speed controller and receiver. I had trouble finding somewhere for a mini Spektrum receiver and a Quantum speed controller! :o Apart from that it's a very nice bit of kit. I'd recommend taking the screws out and threadlocking them, as the chassis is assembled from the factory.
-Steve

[Elliott Hopkins]

That is a surprise. I thought it would come as a kit.

I don't see what is wrong with the kit chassis. But then I haven't tried the cf chassis.

I work with a guy from the Basque country. Great guy, he loves his home region.

Elliott.

[DCM]

How does the motor temp go with the new chassis?

Also, all 3Racing chassis's come assembled, but DO need dismantling and reasembly, even if it is just peace of mind.

[HairySteve]

Race report... :)
I haven't raced the DF for about 4 weeks (took it apart to re-design it Pred stylee, but never got round to designing the front end properly or getting the parts made up :rolleyes:) so I was down in the bottom heat with the other inexperienced/slow drivers. The track was quite a twisty one this time, with a crossover jump in a kind of snail shape, through an S chicane, up 2 ramps at 90 degrees to each other, over a crossover bridge, then a 270 degree turn down 2 more ramps and under the bridge. I managed to get a good line through there during practice and used that line while racing. The track where I race is in a small village hall with a polished wooden floor, the track is laid out using large shipping ropes (about 3" diameter) and tyres, and the crossover and jumps made of wooden ramps. Average lap times were about 16 seconds.
In the first race I was still getting the hang of driving the car again, I'd rebuilt it with the 3 racing chassis, 50 weight shock oil rather than 70 weight previously, and rebuilt both diffs. It had zero camber on the back and about -2 on the front, can't remember what the front toe was. I managed to get 16 laps, 2nd place but only on lap times, 1st got 16 as well, 3rd got 15. Not bad seeing as I sat on the line on the start for a second to let the others past then whizzed round them in their customary pile up in the first corner! :D I got the fastest lap time of the race but I can't remember exactly what it was, but it was about a second quicker than anyone else.
The second race didn't go to plan, one of the ball joints on the top of the steering knuckle unwound itself about 2 minutes in. I thought it had just come off and asked a marshal to pop it back on but he told me it was broken so I went back to the pits. I fixed it about 2 seconds before the end of the race... :rolleyes:
The third race was pretty good again. I got 2nd again, but someone had spilt shock oil on the main straight so it was a bit hairy. I got 15 laps that time, again the 1st place guy got the same number of laps and just pipped me on lap times but my fastest lap time was quicker than him. :D
After the race the guy who runs the club (Alan) and one of the regular A finalist drivers (Ollie) came over and said they were impressed with how well the car was going and how much grip it had, which made me chuffed as I'm nowhere near as good at driving as either of them. :) I was about the only person to constantly get the line over the crossover right in my race, and the supposedly "better" drivers in the next heat were often getting it wrong :rolleyes: In fact in the first race the 2nd heat guys (who I marshalled) the 1st place guy only got 1 more lap than me, and the 2nd place guy got 1 less lap! Properly happy.
Anyway sorry to waffle on, but it was quite a good race meet. The car's going better than ever now, and is actually doing what I want it to do. I think my driving cound do with some improvement but the car's going well now so I can concentrate on improving my driving without worrying about the car doing something silly. It's almost a pity I've got a 501 on the way as that'll effectively make the 03 obsolete. I'll probably alternate them, race the 501 one week and the 03 the next, and see which is better for indoors. ;) Next time I'll try and borrow my mate's camcorder and get some video footage of the racing and some stills of the track so you can see what it's like (if you're interested, that is... :p)
-Steve

[KennyeeChan]

It seems no one has tried KM's Dark Impact kit.

[HairySteve]

All the comments I've seen about it agree that it's taking away the DF-03's main feature of a centrally mounted battery which is part of what makes it handle so well. If you put the KM chassis conversion on a DF-03 it would basically turn it into a shaft drive version of a TRF501 :) I was thinking about it, but I'd have to re-wire all my batteries. Ooh, hold on, my TRF501 uses saddle pack batteries... ;)
-Steve

[DCM]

plus the KM-RC is about twice the price of the 3racing one.

[neiloliver]

Just got my DI. Picked it up for about £68 in a Shanghai model shop. Should I sell it and buy a 501 though???

N

[KennyeeChan]

Does it mean central stick batteries chassis is better control than saddle pack batteries chassis?

[jimmy]

remains to be see, but generally in a 4WD you want the weight closer together (motor and cells) rather than spread along the length. The dark impact weight distribution should make for a stable car but slow the car down in the turns - I would guess ?
anyone?

[DCM]

Yes and no Jim, it will throw it's weight for and aft a little more, being that the weight is spread further along the longitudinal axis, but, with the weight also being centralised, it should be far more controlled in turn transitions, like a left right, as it isn't having to roll as much weight, saying that, it means nowt if you have your suspension set up like a pair of saggy pants...

[jimmy]

true, true. I am excited to see how it does actually go.

[DCM]

It is actualy quite good, only thing I don't like at the mo, is how much it squats under acceleration, but without the bennefit of being able to raise the front of the rear wishbone a tad to stop it squatting.... bah, 3Racing should of listened to me!!!

[jimmy]

I just got the KM Concept dark impact (df03) carbon chassis conversion kit this morning. All looks very fine indeed and the chassis is milled for wishbone droop and front gearbox height. This conversion looks even better than the previous ZX-5 one that I reviewed.

[DCM]

Jim, when you are done with it, let me know if it is a keeper for you or need to get shot...

[KennyeeChan]

Then how about the jumping performance of both batteries placement?

[DCM]

I think the 50aX will be more poised in flight.

[omen1975]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick note to say that I received the KMRC DF-03 conversion kit today, they are now ready for shipping.

Will let you guys know how it performs.

Take it easy n have a good xmas.
Omen1975

[KennyeeChan]

Hello, Omen!

Finished the assembly of the kit yet? I'm very hopeful to know its performance!

[KennyeeChan]

In fact, I just wonder to know what's difference between belt-drive and shaft-drive. And about the performance, TRF501X and DF-03, which one is better?

[omen1975]

Hello, Omen!

Finished the assembly of the kit yet? I'm very hopeful to know its performance!

Hi Kenny, Yes I have built the keen hawk kit with the KMRC chassis kit and hex screws, have not put electics in as yet, I been spending most of my time and $ getting my KMRC Lazer ZX5 sorted out ready for this season.

Just by looking at the built version of my KMRC DF03 kit, it looks very good, now I just have to put 101 upgrades on it :) eg. slipper, oneway, quality shocks ect ect. to be up to my standards. KMRC do have upgrades and have alot more coming, to see them visit www.km-rc.com email them and ask for a catologue.

Will let you know how the KMRC DF03 kit performs soon, but being a KMRC product I am sure it will be a well performing upgrade worth buying.

Im am very keen on the 501x for next race season though.

Take it easy
omen1975

[omen1975]

Email to Wing Chan at www.km-rc.com, mention Damien from Australia put you on to him, might get discount :P

[TRF_Tastic]

Just ordered mine, will be interesting to see how in compares to the 501.

[KennyeeChan]

Hi Kenny, Yes I have built the keen hawk kit with the KMRC chassis kit and hex screws, have not put electics in as yet, I been spending most of my time and $ getting my KMRC Lazer ZX5 sorted out ready for this season.

Just by looking at the built version of my KMRC DF03 kit, it looks very good, now I just have to put 101 upgrades on it :) eg. slipper, oneway, quality shocks ect ect. to be up to my standards. KMRC do have upgrades and have alot more coming, to see them visit www.km-rc.com (http://www.km-rc.com) email them and ask for a catologue.

Will let you know how the KMRC DF03 kit performs soon, but being a KMRC product I am sure it will be a well performing upgrade worth buying.

Im am very keen on the 501x for next race season though.

Take it easy
omen1975

Then do you have any photos about your car?
and what is 101 upgrades? Or what brand?

[KennyeeChan]

Email to Wing Chan at www.km-rc.com (http://www.km-rc.com), mention Damien from Australia put you on to him, might get discount :P

So easy??
HAA~ But I am just a small potato with my poor fingers and poor knowledge!!:rolleyes:

[omen1975]

Then do you have any photos about your car?
and what is 101 upgrades? Or what brand?

I will be upgrading my Keen Hawk later using a DF-03 Five Star slipper shaft and use an Associated B4 slipper setup, DF-03 Tamiya upgrade shocks, DF-03 3Racing Titanium turnbuckles and maybe a set of CVD's (universal drive shafts). I used hex type screws throughout my Keen Hawk.

I have also noticed on my KMRC built Keen Hawk that I will have to cut a small hole in the body shell above the servo horn as the servo saver mechanisim touches body so this modification will allow the body shell to sit in its normal lowered position.

I have also designed and made some plastic strips that double sided tape to the chassis along with some clear undertray protection sheet, this will allow me to throw away the clips that normally hold the shell on and use velcro instead. (pictures attached)

Hope this helps.
omen1975

[jimmy]

That looks great!

Now then, what is this slipper shaft you mention ? I have tried to obtain the tamiya one and its apparently discontinued. the RW one is not available either. Help!

[DCM]

darn, I know he had some gears left but no shafts, if you ask him nicely, he might make another batch Jim!!

[Elliott Hopkins]

Blimey, I didn't know it (the Tamiya slipper) was discontinued. That explains why I've had trouble finding a replacement. IN the end I swapped the gear from the kit layshaft with the worn gear from the slipper - using a hammer!

Elliott.

[omen1975]

That looks great!

Now then, what is this slipper shaft you mention ? I have tried to obtain the tamiya one and its apparently discontinued. the RW one is not available either. Help!

Hi,

Five Star make a slipper shaft for the DF-03, part #FS-7039.

Hope this helps.

omen1975

[omen1975]

Blimey, I didn't know it (the Tamiya slipper) was discontinued. That explains why I've had trouble finding a replacement. IN the end I swapped the gear from the kit layshaft with the worn gear from the slipper - using a hammer!

Elliott.

Try

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk

They have the Tamiya slipper setup listed.

Hope this helps
omen1975

[KennyeeChan]

I will be upgrading my Keen Hawk later using a DF-03 Five Star slipper shaft and use an Associated B4 slipper setup, DF-03 Tamiya upgrade shocks, DF-03 3Racing Titanium turnbuckles and maybe a set of CVD's (universal drive shafts). I used hex type screws throughout my Keen Hawk.

I have also noticed on my KMRC built Keen Hawk that I will have to cut a small hole in the body shell above the servo horn as the servo saver mechanisim touches body so this modification will allow the body shell to sit in its normal lowered position.

I have also designed and made some plastic strips that double sided tape to the chassis along with some clear undertray protection sheet, this will allow me to throw away the clips that normally hold the shell on and use velcro instead. (pictures attached)

Hope this helps.
omen1975

But there are no any stickers on the rear wing. Just leave it blank?

And only the keen hawk body will touch the servo mechanism but not the Dark Impact body, won't it?

[omen1975]

But there are no any stickers on the rear wing. Just leave it blank?

And only the keen hawk body will touch the servo mechanism but not the Dark Impact body, won't it?

Hi Kenny,

I usually leave my race car wings unpainted and just add a few stickers, the picture of my Keen Hawk is only the final built version and I have not done any paint or sticker work to it as yet.

As to the Dark Impacts body touching the servo mechanisim I am unsure, I am guessing that it would have the same problem and will need modifing.

Hope this has answered your question.
omen1975

[jimmy]

The dark impact is a higher shell surely ? the keen hawk is a really crazy shape and very low.

[Elliott Hopkins]

The DI body is quite a tight fit. The servo doesn't get fouled on the body though.

I have an LRP IPC V7.1 on it's side stuck to the battery tunnel and there is a little bit of space.

Elliott.

[DCM]

I don't have any issue with the servo and the body touching, maybe your servo is exceptionaly high?

[jimmy]

This is the KM RC conversion kit we are talking about here - which moved the location of the steering servo - thus placing it in an area which is fine for the dark impact, but the sleeker body of the Keen Hawk is lower in this new location. Not something KM could predict, the answer if you don't want to cut a hole in the shell or similar is to buy an impact shell.

[DCM]

of course, cause of the saddle pack, I was thinking of the 3Racing one.

[omen1975]

The dark impact is a higher shell surely ? the keen hawk is a really crazy shape and very low.

Hi guys, here is some pics of the modification to my keen hawk body.

omen1975

P.S. It may look messy but that is only the protective film that has lifted. A sharp hobby knife should be ok to cut this piece out but I managed to do it with some body scissors and sandpaper.

[stegger]

Spotted this hope you like;)

Team AZARASHI - Tamiya DF-03 Body Update (http://www.rceasy.com/?p=1188)

Lower Roof, high rear wing design smooth the air flow

“Wing Nose” - create powerful down force

Additional Air flow go in from the body for cool down motor

Air outflow and redirect to the rear wing for effective cooling.

[Elliott Hopkins]

For a Dark Impact, the servo would be located at the front of the cockpit, no?

Not liking the new shell, it's not what I would have done.

Elliott.

[DCM]

where can I buy that body?

[max_crox]

where can I buy that body?

http://www.rc-direct.co.uk is apparently the UK dist for them (according to radio control car racer mag).

It not listed yet though.

[Elliott Hopkins]

I've just run my rebuilt DI earlier this evening and it is still the coolest car I've ever seen.

Fixing the layshaft has made it a lot faster, smoother and quieter.

The 3Racing shock towers totally change the cars handling (as does the 50wt oil).

Elliott.

[omen1975]

where can I buy that body?

http://www.team-azarashi.com/framepage3.html

Email them your order with (Azarashi part numbers) and your postal address, they will email you a paypal invoice. Simply pay with paypal and its on your door step within 7 days.

If I remember correctly the postage was about 2,000 to 2,500 yen (bout $15 to $20 US) for my ZX-5 body, wings, undertray and stickers. That was to Australia.

Very easy to order through.

Hope this is useful.

omen1975

[TRF_Tastic]

Ok then, the KWC conversion kit arrived today for the DI and I have just finished fitting it along with the 3 racing shock towers and suspension brace, Man does this car look good, however I think that it is time cut down on the amount of cars in the garage, so it will have to go, along with the DF03 upgraded shocks set. Watch the forsale Thread.

[omen1975]

Hi Guys,

In recent contact with Team Azarashi I was informed that they have designed a modification for the KMRC chassis kit (mainly servo size) to allow there or even maybe the Keen Hawks body to fit without body modification.

Here is the links.

http://www.team-azarashi.com/DF03kmckumitatehen.html

http://www.team-azarashi.com/photoxeneigaenglish.html

(webpage translation maybe needed)

I asked about an undertray I saw in the link and they said it will not be for sale but gave instructions on making one, dissapointing really as I would be the first to buy one if they had a ready made one available.

Anyway hope this info helps.

omen1975

P.S. Great review on the 501X Jimmy, well done.

[KennyeeChan]

Such a good job, Omen!

where do you find this page?

[omen1975]

Such a good job, Omen!

where do you find this page?

Thanks Kenny, I tend to do alot of research!!! if only I got paid to do it haha.

Anyway hope this info was useful to you :)

[KennyeeChan]

HA~ Thanks!

It is useful and I tend to do more researches, that's why I want to know your methods to do it~;)

It seems Researching is your job~

[HairySteve]

By the way chaps, I just found this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250065207745&rd=1&rd=1 front 1-way unit (not centre) for the DF-03... I'm severely tempted to build a second DF using the KMR chassis kit and the Xeneiga body from Azarashi... Thing is I suppose it'd be a bit of a waste, I've already got one fully hopped up DF-03 and a TRF501X, and I can only race one car at a time... :rolleyes: I might get the KMR chassis and fit it to my car, see what difference it makes handling wise. What do you all think I should do? So many cars, so little time... :p
-Steve

[KennyeeChan]

By the way chaps, I just found this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250065207745&rd=1&rd=1 front 1-way unit (not centre) for the DF-03... I'm severely tempted to build a second DF using the KMR chassis kit and the Xeneiga body from Azarashi... Thing is I suppose it'd be a bit of a waste, I've already got one fully hopped up DF-03 and a TRF501X, and I can only race one car at a time... :rolleyes: I might get the KMR chassis and fit it to my car, see what difference it makes handling wise. What do you all think I should do? So many cars, so little time... :p
-Steve

If possible, Do the great job for giving it a report~!!
No one has written the report about DF-03 hop-up chassis.;)

[omen1975]

By the way chaps, I just found this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250065207745&rd=1&rd=1 front 1-way unit (not centre) for the DF-03... I'm severely tempted to build a second DF using the KMR chassis kit and the Xeneiga body from Azarashi... Thing is I suppose it'd be a bit of a waste, I've already got one fully hopped up DF-03 and a TRF501X, and I can only race one car at a time... :rolleyes: I might get the KMR chassis and fit it to my car, see what difference it makes handling wise. What do you all think I should do? So many cars, so little time... :p
-Steve

Hey Steve,

I can tell you one benifit straight up, least you will be able to use all saddle pack batteries so then they will be interchangable in both cars. Another thing is to just look at your 501X, does it use a plastic bath tub chassis? :)

If you have spent all that time/money upgrading your DF-03 and you have money to spare then I would recommend you complement it with the KMC chassis kit, as it really does change the whole perspective of the car.

I know KMRC have a Carbon main shaft set (part #DI-005-OW) this part includes a one way and is in production and should be available soon. To view this part go to www.KM-RC.com (http://www.KM-RC.com) and download their catologue.

Anyway good luck with your racing.
omen1975

[HairySteve]

My DF already has the 3 racing conversion but to be honest it's a bit of a pain. I made up an undertray using lexan sheet, and bolted it under the chassis but to remove the battery requires major surgery! I'm currently running a Trakpower lithium in the DF, but I've heard rumours of a new saddle pack lithium battery coming out soon which I'll definitely use for the TRF, so I may as well use that in the DF as well. Standardisation is good. :D I have got a 5 stars centre CV driveshaft, the only one I've ever seen, got it off jr-rc on ebay and since I bought it I've never seen another one. I'm running a centre 1-way and I did try making a front 1-way out of one from a TA-04, and grinding the centre of a front diff gear down, but I couldn't get it accurate enough and it kept stripping drive bevel gears. It did handle extremely well with both a centre and front 1-way though. If it wasn't for the fac that I've just spent £400 getting some new brakes and HT leads for my car, I'd definitely get one right now. I'll probably get one next month when I've been paid... along with a KMR chassis and the Azarashi body... :wtf:
-Steve

[omen1975]

My DF already has the 3 racing conversion but to be honest it's a bit of a pain. I made up an undertray using lexan sheet, and bolted it under the chassis but to remove the battery requires major surgery! I'm currently running a Trakpower lithium in the DF, but I've heard rumours of a new saddle pack lithium battery coming out soon which I'll definitely use for the TRF, so I may as well use that in the DF as well. Standardisation is good. :D I have got a 5 stars centre CV driveshaft, the only one I've ever seen, got it off jr-rc on ebay and since I bought it I've never seen another one. I'm running a centre 1-way and I did try making a front 1-way out of one from a TA-04, and grinding the centre of a front diff gear down, but I couldn't get it accurate enough and it kept stripping drive bevel gears. It did handle extremely well with both a centre and front 1-way though. If it wasn't for the fac that I've just spent £400 getting some new brakes and HT leads for my car, I'd definitely get one right now. I'll probably get one next month when I've been paid... along with a KMR chassis and the Azarashi body... :wtf:
-Steve

Yeah I could see how the undertray would be a hassle with the 3racing chassis.

Centre and front one way? very interesting.

Try

http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?Imd=38892.783403

For saddle pack Lipo.

Anyway hope this helps, Good luck with your upgrades :)

omen1975

[DCM]

if you want someone to buy your 3racing conversion chassis, let me know, not after a whole car though.

[KennyeeChan]

if you want someone to buy your 3racing conversion chassis, let me know, not after a whole car though.

Hi,
you haven't bought it yet?:confused:

[DCM]

always something else more important to buy recently.

[HairySteve]

DCM, I'll bear that in mind if I decide to get the KMR chassis kit. As one of the guy at work pointed out it'd be worth doing as then I can use the same batteries in both my TRF501 and my DF03. My 3 racing chassis has been modified a bit to take a Trakpower lithium battery, which unfortunately involved removing the two protruding parts of the top deck which the front body mounts bolt to! :rolleyes: My main problem with the 3 racing chassis kit is the lack of space to mount the radio gear, and also how difficult it is to get to the battery retaining clips. If you want it, make me an offer. One of my friends is running the car tomorrow evening (he's just bought a Yok BX but hasn't had time to build it yet, but being the keen type he wants to race tomorrow! :D) but after that if you want the chassis let me know and I'll either put the stock tub back on it or get a KMR chassis kit on order. I'm looking forward to the outdoor series in kent this year, I'm going to try and get along to several of them if I can, I'll try the TRF501 and the DF03 and see which handles best. I might get me a brushless setup as well... ;)
-Steve

[KennyeeChan]

DCM, I'll bear that in mind if I decide to get the KMR chassis kit. As one of the guy at work pointed out it'd be worth doing as then I can use the same batteries in both my TRF501 and my DF03. My 3 racing chassis has been modified a bit to take a Trakpower lithium battery, which unfortunately involved removing the two protruding parts of the top deck which the front body mounts bolt to! :rolleyes: My main problem with the 3 racing chassis kit is the lack of space to mount the radio gear, and also how difficult it is to get to the battery retaining clips. If you want it, make me an offer. One of my friends is running the car tomorrow evening (he's just bought a Yok BX but hasn't had time to build it yet, but being the keen type he wants to race tomorrow! :D) but after that if you want the chassis let me know and I'll either put the stock tub back on it or get a KMR chassis kit on order. I'm looking forward to the outdoor series in kent this year, I'm going to try and get along to several of them if I can, I'll try the TRF501 and the DF03 and see which handles best. I might get me a brushless setup as well... ;)
-Steve

you mean your friend will run the 3racing keen type today?
please don't mind to let me know is possible.

[HairySteve]

No, what I meant was that he's keen to start racing so he's borrowing my car (the 3 racing chassis'd DF-03) to get some track time in while his Yokomo is still in the process of being built. ;)
-Steve

[shinytopman]

Is it possible to glue some thin sand paper type stuff to the back to give some friction on the diffhalf and stop it slipping?
I don't remember what had that but I reckon it was either my procat or an old RC10.


Sorry to drag up an old post but am reading in itrest as looking at getting my boy a DI, so doing a bit of research ( any help or advice greatly appreciated BTW ).

It was the Pro-cat Jimmy......LOL...Ignore that i read on and found Northy beat me to it :O)

[Elliott Hopkins]

I whacked my DI off of many tree roots this weekend had a whole bunch of high speed tumbles and two full speed impacts with exposed logs and the car is still in one piece. The car is very strong.

It's also looks and handles pretty well.

Jimmy is preparing a review on the Dark Impact / Keen Hawk at the minute.

Elliott.

[shinytopman]

Jimmy is preparing a review on the Dark Impact / Keen Hawk at the minute.

Elliott.

Cheers Elliot.

And Jimmy,

I await another of your stunning reveiws with baited breath !

;)

[DCM]

I shall take some pics of my 3Racing conversion tomorrow

[RavenC]

Hi guys,
I am newbie to this forum and to DF-03. A question here:
Does DIK-100 set up easily? I have ordered it last Saturday and would like to have a run on this weekend. Hope I could received it on time~;)

[Ronaldo]

Any more information about DIK-100?
It looks very well!

[DCM]

DIK-100, whats that?

Man, this 3Racing conversion is becoming a right royal pain in the butt!!!

[Elliott Hopkins]

It's the KMRC CF saddle chassis.

[KennyeeChan]

DIK-100, whats that?

Man, this 3Racing conversion is becoming a right royal pain in the butt!!!


How disgusting it is?:confused:

[DCM]

it is a pretty chassis, just having a right pain getting my cells in, I now have ended up with the battery wires coming out next to the steering linkage at the front, space is well tight in there.

[HairySteve]

If I was building another converted DF-03 I'd personally go for the KMR chassis unless you're running lithium. I've got a lithium in my 3 racing converted DF-03 and it's pretty much impossible to get out without some major surgery. I also had to hack the chassis around quite a bit to get it in there, which resulted in me losing the front body posts. I also had to hacksaw a lump out of the large aluminium rear piece of the chassis (the part the top deck, rear gearbox, and pretty much everything else, bolts onto). It's certainly designed for stick packs, if you tried to run a cell pack in there you'd have to heatshrink it otherwise it would short out against the chassis! :wtf: I now have 6 saddle packs for my TRF501X so if I start racing the DF-03 again in anger I might stick a KMR chassis on it, but that woudl mean I wouldn't be able to use my lithium battery... argh... :o :rolleyes: :D ;)
-Steve

[omen1975]

Hi guys,

KMRC have the DF03 chassis kit on special for $99 USD, its an easter special.

heres the link:

http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_48_49_50&products_id=114&osCsid=1b94b39859bd9a06fba1aea0d0dbf616

Good luck
omen1975

[HairySteve]

Aargh! I'm soo tempted at that price!! :o Why did you have to tell us that Omen... ;) Must resist... I've spent too much on my TRF501 and my DF-03 this week already... :D
-Steve

[Ronaldo]

I am interested in this kit for a long period. It is more attractive for me to buy during this big sales!

[RavenC]

I am interested in this kit for a long period. It is more attractive for me to buy during this big sales!

Be quick!!Hope To see you in the family of DF-03.
I wanna order one more.But just worried if it will be stock out soon.
Sounds like a no. of people interested to take one.

[DCM]

I think I might as well sell mine, gonna put a 'for sale' add up in a mo.

[NewKid]

i just got a kit and was wondering would this conversion work with lipo saddle packs? or normal lipo's lol? why cause i am running a mamba max 7700 kv setup on 2s lipo

[KennyeeChan]

it cannot be used with lipo pack.............
But already been wonderful performance.
I run the time 3 sec. faster with this kit!:cool:

[kamoeba_c]

is it really so good?
let me buy it during this promotion!
but any methods to make it run with lipo pack.........:confused: :mad:

[DCM]

you cna buy my 3Racing converted DF03... Lipo will go in with a little 'altering'

[kamoeba_c]

any reasons why you are so willing to sell it?
I saw your post before about the selling

[DCM]

because it won't fit in with me cells that I have, I don't realy want to have specific packs of batteries to only use with the car, I have buggies and a saloon that all share the same cell layout, so of it goes, unfortunately. Plus I just don't have the time to make the chassis fit the cells either :-(

[Elliott Hopkins]

It's a shame, I've enjoyed our discussions on the Dark Impact.

:)

Elliott.

[DCM]

I would love to keep it, but I got to look realisticaly, how much room I got.

[NewKid]

it cannot be used with lipo pack.............
But already been wonderful performance.
I run the time 3 sec. faster with this kit!:cool:

well i bought the saddle pack in 5500 mah so we'll have to see if i can shoehorn her in...without taking away from the chassis....I already got a couple of parts but still waiting on the buggy, chassis,lipo, etc to come in...i really can't wait:rolleyes:

[KennyeeChan]

well i bought the saddle pack in 5500 mah so we'll have to see if i can shoehorn her in...without taking away from the chassis....I already got a couple of parts but still waiting on the buggy, chassis,lipo, etc to come in...i really can't wait:rolleyes:


Then what car you had before?
or you are intent to buy those parts?

[omen1975]

is it really so good?
let me buy it during this promotion!
but any methods to make it run with lipo pack.........:confused: :mad:

Hey Guys,

No reason why this saddle pack 4400mah lipo wont fit, you will need to make the loop wire slightly longer and even the out the top option you can choose may be better, you may also need a 2mm spacer under your battery posts. Maybe ask if they can make the loop wire couple inches longer before they send you one.

I have been thinking of purchasing one myself for my KMRC ZX-5 and KMRC Keen Hawk but dont have the spare funds at this stage so it will have to wait. :(

Anyway here is the link,

http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=54

Hope this helps
omen1975

[NewKid]

Then what car you had before?
or you are intent to buy those parts?

i've never had a df before but i bought one and also bought the hop up parts

so far I've bought!
km chassis
mamba max 7700 setup
2s maxamps 5500mah lipo
Tamiya Slipper Kit
3 racing:
1 x 3Racing Alu. Suspension Brace
1 x 3Racing Alu. Rear Gear Box Stiffener
1 x 3Racing SSG Graphite Rear Damper Tower
1 x 3Racing SSG Graphite Front Shock Tower
1 x 3Racing Titanium Turnbuckle Kit
1 x 3Racing Aluminum Servo Saver Kit
1 x 3Racing HD Diff Front Kit
1 x 3Racing HD Diff Rear Kit
1 x 3Racing Titanium Screw Set
1 x 3Racing Graphite Front Brace
1 x 3Racing Aluminum Propellor Shaft

basically all i need now are my truck tires and truck body...

[RavenC]

Hey Guys,

No reason why this saddle pack 4400mah lipo wont fit, you will need to make the loop wire slightly longer and even the out the top option you can choose may be better, you may also need a 2mm spacer under your battery posts. Maybe ask if they can make the loop wire couple inches longer before they send you one.

I have been thinking of purchasing one myself for my KMRC ZX-5 and KMRC Keen Hawk but dont have the spare funds at this stage so it will have to wait. :(

Anyway here is the link,

http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=54

Hope this helps
omen1975

Hey omen,
I have also got the KM chassis for my DF03, sounds interest to use the lipo pack:cool: But for my poor techique.I don't understand what I should do......:yawn: Can you show the steps of set-up when you got the lipo?:D

Hope not to waste your time....:)

[KennyeeChan]

i've never had a df before but i bought one and also bought the hop up parts

so far I've bought!
km chassis
mamba max 7700 setup
2s maxamps 5500mah lipo
Tamiya Slipper Kit
3 racing:
1 x 3Racing Alu. Suspension Brace
1 x 3Racing Alu. Rear Gear Box Stiffener
1 x 3Racing SSG Graphite Rear Damper Tower
1 x 3Racing SSG Graphite Front Shock Tower
1 x 3Racing Titanium Turnbuckle Kit
1 x 3Racing Aluminum Servo Saver Kit
1 x 3Racing HD Diff Front Kit
1 x 3Racing HD Diff Rear Kit
1 x 3Racing Titanium Screw Set
1 x 3Racing Graphite Front Brace
1 x 3Racing Aluminum Propellor Shaft

basically all i need now are my truck tires and truck body...

Then finish it yet?
so many options you got!
I just run DF with the DIK.

[kamoeba_c]

Hey omen,
I have also got the KM chassis for my DF03, sounds interest to use the lipo pack:cool: But for my poor techique.I don't understand what I should do......:yawn: Can you show the steps of set-up when you got the lipo?:D

Hope not to waste your time....:)

That's the question for me too!!

[RavenC]

That's the question for me too!!

Have you order your DF03 conversion kit yet?:)
If not,
BE QUICK!!
Enjoy the Easter Promotion!:D
Show us some pic of your DF03 with conversion kit when you take it:D!
And last,
Welcome to the DIK-100 family:cool:!!
Cheer

[van]

i wonder if anyone has tried to fit trf501 suspension arms onto the kit yet since it sounds like they would bolt up then you could use the white dish wheels:confused:

[van]

i almost forgot for those trying to get 48 pitch slippers to work with the dark impact kawada sells a direct conversion

[RavenC]

i wonder if anyone has tried to fit trf501 suspension arms onto the kit yet since it sounds like they would bolt up then you could use the white dish wheels:confused:

Have you bought the DF03 conversion kit from KM?
I am glad to know the answer if you got it:D
I mean to fit the TRF501 in DIK-100.

Cheer

[Sero]

Hey Raven,

Seems like you know a lot about the KM conversion kit.:D
Actually I want to take an order within this weekend.
Can you show me some photo of your DF-03?
And can you list out the adv. and disadv. of it by your OWN EXPERIENCE?:confused:
I don't think the advertisment is really 100% true...:(
Waiting for your opinion....:)

Sero

[van]

753

754

755i will be making one from scratch soon because i need to finish off my ta05 kawada rc first but my frist df03 parts for now are the kawada spur conversion set and the kawada slipper gear cap but for the suspension arms they are almost the same size the only thing that would be a problem is spacing but thats where you shim it up but if you want to see my ta05 ill take pics of the for now its custom to the fullest that it can go and the chassis is custom milled by me . I dont like to buy full kits so i just buy the spares and upgrades that way it saves money .

[RavenC]

Hey Raven,

Seems like you know a lot about the KM conversion kit.:D
Actually I want to take an order within this weekend.
Can you show me some photo of your DF-03?
And can you list out the adv. and disadv. of it by your OWN EXPERIENCE?:confused:
I don't think the advertisment is really 100% true...:(
Waiting for your opinion....:)

Sero

In fact, I know nothing about KM conversion kit but DF-03.

For the advantage, I don't think it is really different from the advertisment, no need to worriy about this.

And about the disadvantage, just to pay attention will it be stock out soon.

Hope to help

Raven

[NewKid]

gonna build the di today...will be taking some pics of progress tonight!

[jimmy]

Took me long enough - but project 'ultimate Impact' is go! :D
I only just started but of course the main part of this car is the awesome KMRC conversion kit. Since i wanted to get the best of the car I also hunted out some choice hop-ups, concentrating on performance rather than looks.
At the moment other than the conversion there is:

Tamiya hopup shocks - I will change to 501X pistons and shafts though
Tamiya turnbuckles
Tamiya heatsinks (might ditch these)
Tamiya centre one way
Tamiya front one way
Square front and rear shock towers
Square rear diff
Kanzen ceramic diff balls
Square front cvd
Yeah Racing rear cvdPowering this lot will be the 2007 Nosram Matrix brushless with 5.5 motor and Nosram team cells. Steering will come from the latest low profile KO servo.



http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/oople-ultimateimpact01.jpg


I don't know a heck of a lot about Tamiya stuff and all the millions of cars they do - and what might fit this df03 buggy... but I am looking for a couple of things and hoped someone might be able to help.
I am looking for caster front hub carriers - the kit are ZERO degrees and it's simply not enough with the fairly shallow front kick up.
I have seen some Yeah Racing front TB05 hub carriers in 4degrees caster but not sure if these will fit?

I am not sure what rear toe-in is on the DF03 as standard (from the wishbones) but it looks about 4 degrees - so does anyone make toe-in rear hubs for this platform or that might fit? I want to reverse them for less toe-in.
:)

[omen1975]

I was suprised on how light my KMRC DF-03 is, I think this conversion will surely be a winner in Stock classes.

omen1975

[Eotz]

Hello.

I'm racing with my DF-03, full of options but with the stock plastic chassis and the cars work really fine. My next step is going to be one of the carbon fiver conversion chassis. My first option is the 3Racing one becasue use the same layout than the stock chassis and in my opinion the weigth distribution is the best point of this car, but I wish to know your impressions about both chasis. Does anyone race with one of this chassis?. What do you think about the racing behavior of both chassis?.

Thanks. :)

[jimmy]

Hey there Eotz, What is your setup on the df03? I did get the car going fairly well but it could have been better - I think the shock towers would have been next to change to get better performance.
I was just frustrated by the lack of some adjustments (castor and antisquat for instance)

The layout on the KMRC conversion does place the weight closer together which in theory might enable the car to turn quicker - but we'll have to see since I've not raced it yet. The layout does make it easier for me to use my racing cells though.

[Eotz]

Hey there Eotz, What is your setup on the df03?

Hello Jimmy. :)

This is the full list of the Hop-Ups that I'm using:

From Tamiya:
- Sleeper.
- Center one-way.
- Heat sink bars.
- DF-02 universals (Front and rear)
- TRF hexagonal wheel adapters (4mm thickness).
- 18T to 29T 0.5 pinions.

From Five Stars:
- Front and rear Shock towers.

From Yeah Racing!
- Turnbuckle set.
- Aluminiun battery cover (Great cooling batteries).

From 3Racing:
- Aluminiun gear box plate.
- Aluminun racing steering (With bearings).
- Damper set.
- Front and rear Diff Shaft.
- Graphite Front Suspension Brace.
- Alum Rear Gear Box Stiffener .

From Losi:
- Shock coils.
- Ifmar Stud tyres.

From JConcepts:
- High down force 7" wing.

From Cyclone.
- Wheels.

Last race and next one (Nest sunday 13) I'm race with an LRP ICP V7.1 ESC and a Fusion Phase 4.1 12x2T because my Reedy neo 3 Stars Brushless motor died the first race in the 3th cualifying. My new Vector X11 6.5 will arrive next week.
I think this is all and I don't forgot nothing :eh?: . You can see 2 pictures of my car in this forum.

See you. :D

[jimmy]

The yeah racing battery cover is mad- but I think actually a really good idea - it should stiffen up the chassis a little and also put some weight low down.

I forgot to say I also use the tamiya slipper - but have put a B4 48dp spur gear on it so I could use my existing pinions.

I heard some good things about the 3racing shocks - I just wasn't overly impressed with the kit plastic or tamiya hopup shocks

[Eotz]

Hi Jimmy.

Yes, the 3Racong Shocks are really good, the came with really hard coils and oil that should be replaced. Ofcurse depending of the track and son on. I also made bigger the holes of the pistons. I'm using Losi coils with this shocks, in the front they fit perfect but the rear coils are a little bit shorter than 3Racing coils. This weekend I'll try Schumacher's CAT3000 coils. Those shocks works really soft and the complete set cost only cost 22$.

Bye. :)

[sim]

Losi springs work on 3-Racing shocks? I have both of these and never thought to try them out. Haha.

[gordy]

New to this forum, although I've been looking round for quite some time. I'm also building a DI for club racing. I've ordered a KM chassis kit, does it concern anyone else, how little meat there is at the back of the chassis - where the motor cut out is?
Jimmy, I've got a KM catalogue here, that says they do C hubs in zero degrees, 4 degrees, 7 degrees and 10 degrees and rear hubs in 0,1 and 1.5 degrees. Although I haven't seen it on their site - it might be worth enquiring about.

[jimmy]

It's thin back there but the carbon feels to be quality stuff so I'd not worry too much to be honest. The top deck / gearbox mounting should stop it flexing back there.

Thanks for the tip about the parts, I've not heard about them but I'll look into it!

[jimmy]

Found the catalog - I'll get some bits on order I think once I've figured out the new KMRC website. They have sadly taken some cues from the 'how not to design a website' handbook. Now please excuse me whilst I close their site tab so I don't have to listen to that music or car engine any longer.:eh?:


oop, found the site and currently they only offer for sale the 0 degree stuff like you said - which is what everyone else sells also. I want some 1 degree hubs and 10degree caster c hubs

[gordy]

It might be worth sending them an email asking if they can do they in different degrees. I know what you mean about their website - it's like trying to find your way round Tesco's with the lights out!!!
At the club the other night I was looking at some Yokomo BD touring car C hubs and rear hubs, and although I haven't got any to try - they look damn close. I really want to make the DI perform well. Just hope it's not a total let down after all this effort.

[mutie]

Jimmy how's the DF-03 project car comming? it looked like it was shaping up well.

I have just ordered a keen hawk and a whole load of blue bits as well (getting a little out of hand actually! costing me an arm and a leg!)

Hairy Steve! Where are you! Come back to FORCC and we can have a DF-03 race! (even though it will only be the two of us unless i work on Gordon)

Has anybody tried the 501X shocks on the DF-03? i think the rears are similar but the front shock bodies seem a little longer.

I was thinking about a 3 racing chassis, has anybody tried to fit a GTB on it?

Cheers

Ollie

[BelstenToo]

Rather than resurect a really old DF03 thread I thought I'd add to this one.
I've just ordered an avante mk2 and keep eyeing up all of these options with much interest! Jimmy, have you had chance to build that 'ultimate' version yet?
I think I'd better run mine standard for a while, as it's been 11 years since I last raced! The df03 looked like a good car for me to get started again though.

[DCM]

Pete, pop to Cardiff, I have a full 'bells and whistles' DF03 sitting in the workroom, unemployed.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/df03%20pics/DF03-02.jpg

[encore75]

Took me long enough - but project 'ultimate Impact' is go! :D
I only just started but of course the main part of this car is the awesome KMRC conversion kit. Since i wanted to get the best of the car I also hunted out some choice hop-ups, concentrating on performance rather than looks.
At the moment other than the conversion there is:
Tamiya hopup shocks - I will change to 501X pistons and shafts though
Tamiya turnbuckles
Tamiya heatsinks (might ditch these)
Tamiya centre one way
Tamiya front one way
Square front and rear shock towers
Square rear diff
Kanzen ceramic diff balls
Square front cvd
Yeah Racing rear cvd



Jimmy,

I'm putting together my Keen Hawk, but would like to gather all the "essential" hop-ups first so that they can all go in during the initial build. Like you, I'm looking mainly for performance and durability, as Tamiya parts are harder to come by here in the U.S. I've got a few questions for you (and to anyone else who might know the answers)...

What's your impression of the Tamiya turnbuckles? Also, have you any idea as to what material they're made out of (steel, titanium, aluminum, etc.)? They do look pretty beefy, though.

What size are the diff balls and diff rings in the DF-03 diffs?

I was also thinking alloy hubs might be a good idea, as I see the hinge pin set screws not holding in the plastic hubs all that well over time...I figure with the alloy ones, at least I could use some Loctite. Have you any experience with the various 3rd party ones out there (Yeah racing, GPM, 3Racing, etc.)?

Thanks in advance, and I look forward to your completed review of "Project Ultimate Impact!"
:cool:

[DCM]

If you want an easy option for turnbuckles, look no further than the Associated B4, they fit a good un.

As for alloy suspension parts, the chances are you will break something bigger than say a hub.

As for hop up, RW Racing will sell a layshaft which will take a B4 slipper unit directly, or you can buy the Tamiya one and then ream out B4 spur gears to go on.

Tamiya Centre one-way will help things, 3 Racing motor plate to help cool things and maybe a 3Racing steering set.

Big one though, and don't go for the cheaper 3Racing/Square/GPM option, go for a set of Tamiya DF02 Swing Shafts (CVD's), they are a direct fir and far easier to rebuild.

[budgio]

I have just bought a new alloy spur gear cover which accomodates the slipper clutch and a blue alloy battery cover which i,m hoping will stiffen up the chassis and stop my main driveshaft popping out.
http://m1.freeshare.us/169fs184427.jpg

[encore75]

What size are the diff balls and diff rings in the DF-03 diffs?


Nevermind...I just found out that they're the same ones as in the TA04. Still wondering about the diff balls though...are the diff balls 3mm, as in the 501x?

DCM, are you still running the front diff outdrives in the rear? Any issues with them? I still don't understand why tamiya made the hybrid steel/plastic outdrive design for the rear if the fronts work all the same. :eh?:

[DCM]

I gave up running mine due to the rear wishbone hanging off the gearbox, might give it a blast in the winter, the running I did, didn't wear them.

[budgio]

I gave up running mine due to the rear wishbone hanging off the gearbox, might give it a blast in the winter, the running I did, didn't wear them.

I did the same thing at Coventry tonight:( 1st time though

[BelstenToo]

I've just discovered that the carbon/graphite 3 Racing front suspension brace I have, will fit on the rear, at the front of the rear wishbones, that should strengthen it up shouldn't it?

Only problem is that I now need another one to put back on the front of the car!

[BelstenToo]

It's nearly finished now, so here's a photo!
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg (http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg)

[encore75]

Nice looking DF-03, Belsten.

I see that you were able to use the heatsink bars with the 3racing rear tranny brace. Did it fit as built, or did you have to add any spacers or anything for clearance?

[DCM]

thats bling-a-ding-a-licious that Pete!!!

[BelstenToo]

Nice looking DF-03, Belsten.

I see that you were able to use the heatsink bars with the 3racing rear tranny brace. Did it fit as built, or did you have to add any spacers or anything for clearance?
Thanks!
It all fitted straight out of the packet, no modifications needed at all.

[BelstenToo]

thats bling-a-ding-a-licious that Pete!!!
Thanks Steve.
It's nearly finished now, I got a bit carried away on ebay! Still some more stuff on their way to me.

[DCM]

heehee... good thing about Tamiya, loads of goodies, and all priced in US$ heehee

[BelstenToo]

Yes, but can you find a decent body/undertray anywhere?
Finally fitted the bodyshell to discover that the Avante body doesn't come down as far as the chassis! About a 3mm gap all round. :mad:

[tobbe]

I've just discovered that the carbon/graphite 3 Racing front suspension brace I have, will fit on the rear, at the front of the rear wishbones, that should strengthen it up shouldn't it?

Only problem is that I now need another one to put back on the front of the car!Don't put the fron chassi brace on the rear! Buy this instead. I have it on my DI:)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_923&products_id=22198

[BelstenToo]

Don't put the fron chassi brace on the rear! Buy this instead. I have it on my DI:)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_923&products_id=22198

I have that too, but I felt the brace in front of the wishbones would be stronger than one behind them, so didn't fit it.
Why do you feel this one is better?

[tobbe]

Well...I don't if it's better. But the hinge pins are in titanium and should not bend so easily. Anyway, it looks more beefier than the piece of CF:p

[BelstenToo]

True, it does look good!

[sabut]

It's nearly finished now, so here's a photo!
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg (http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg)
wahh, very nice looking, i hope my df03 will bling2 also next time, now my df03 still standard, no others changing:)

[BelstenToo]

wahh, very nice looking, i hope my df03 will bling2 also next time, now my df03 still standard, no others changing:)

Thanks sabut! It looks great, but needs an undertray or similar as the body doesn't quite fit the chassis. Possibly because I have the Avante2 bodyshell, rather than the Dark Impact or Keen Hawk.

[Eotz]

Hello.

I found a new conversion kit for the DF-03. Is made by Xenon Racing! and looks good, better than 3Racing chassis. this is the only picture that I could find. I can see that there is no problem at all to use side by side batterys.

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/xenon.html

Cheers.

[Rob H]

Hello.

I found a new conversion kit for the DF-03. Is made by Xenon Racing! and looks good, better than 3Racing chassis. this is the only picture that I could find. I can see that there is no problem at all to use side by side batterys.

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/xenon.html

Cheers.

Seems like it uses two layers of cf for the chassis

[sim]

Can't really see a lot from the pictures. Why is it better than the 3Racing? The 3Racing ones cannot accept side-by-side cells?

[Eotz]

3Racing Chassis can't acept side by side bateries without a previous dremel work in the aluminium suports. You also should protect with tape all the aluminiun parts to aboid short circuits. Finally is quite difficult to insert the side by side bateries once the car is finish.

[sim]

Oh okay. Thanks for that info.

[Rob H]

It's nearly finished now, so here's a photo!
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg (http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/P8240052.jpg)

Hi Belsen, Is the car finished now?, how's it going.

Quick question from the photo it looks like you have fitted the tamiya heat sinks and 3 racing gear box stiffener. I did not think you could fit both at the same time? any mods required?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

I made up an undertray using lexan sheet.

Where did you buy the lexan from or does anyone know of a suitable undertray that'll fit without to much cutting?

[BelstenToo]

Hi Belsen, Is the car finished now?, how's it going.

Quick question from the photo it looks like you have fitted the tamiya heat sinks and 3 racing gear box stiffener. I did not think you could fit both at the same time? any mods required?

Hi Rob, I've made some changes to my DF03, I'll try and post some more photos.

But the tamiya heat sinks and the 3 racing gear box stiffener fit without any mods at all.

I'll update the DF-03 winter project topic with pics.

[psuar]

Hi all

im using the 3Racing graphite conversion kit, tamiya hop up suspension, 3racing graphite towers and CVAs.

The buggy goes excellent with my mamba 7700, and take note that Im running in a 1/8 buggy track.

the only problem is I broke two rear arms due wrong landings...

but anyway is a lot better broking arms than a chassis, and I broke 3 of them!!

[tom_chang79]

Does anyone know if there is an undertray that will fit the Df-03 chassis (particularly for the 3Racing) so the underside can be protected? I'm thinking since the battery is loaded from underneath, probably a 3M chassis protector tape would work better then a lexan?

[tom_chang79]

I received my 3Racing chassis last week. I'm very impressed! I didn't really hope for much seeing as how this was another product from HK... To my surprise, this chassis kit is very high in quality! I can tell that they carefully selected the hole sizes (M3 and M2.6 screws in the right place), and the chassis are thick, 3mm cut...

Their shock towers are also very high quality, very beefy 3mm cuts...

Does anyone here use this chassis as well? How did you mitigate the scratching underneath? Is there an undertray from another vehicle that I can run that is close to the shape of the DF-03 chassis?

[Animal]

I finally got to go home today.And there it was sitting on my desk.My chassis conversion form KM and some other alluminum goodies.I can 't wait to get started on this project and start running it.I will get some pics on as well as the project unfolds.

[tom_chang79]

Sweeeeeeeeeet. Would love to see your ride after it's done Animal! Keep us posted!

[DCM]

here is my old one, I have sold it though

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/df03%20pics/DF03-02.jpg

[Animal]

I plan on starting it today.

[Animal]

Well i started the build today.Everything was going great i got the rearend done buit the chassis mounted the rearend.Starting to look great.So i started on the front gearbox(this is when things go bad)I started on the front diff I have it all ready to go.I start to thread the bolt in throught the diff into the lock nut.When its strips the plastic holder the nut sits in.:cry:
So now iam like shit i cant get it to tighten and i can't get to loosen back up to take it apart.So iam sitting just flaming mad.I take a break and get on the net to start looking for parts.Haveing a hard time finding the stock screw kits for this buggy.Not sure what iam going to do there.Anyway back ti the buggy so i go back out looking at the diff think what iam going to have to do to get this apart first thing that comes to mind is iam going to have to dremel my hub off the one side.(i really don't want to do that)To make a long story shory i ended up putting some tire glue down the hub and glue the plastic to the side and was able to get the nut and bolt out.Now i have to still find some parts.I guess it all happens for a reason Now iam going to go ahead and order the front oneway and some other goodies this weeks.:thumbsup:

[tom_chang79]

DCM, a few question about your DF-03:

1) Did you break any parts while you had that car? If so, which parts did you break the most?

2) How did you protect the chassis from nasty scratches? Did you use a chassis tape like the one from 3M?

3) How did you thread the antenna through the that antenna holder? The slot in that holder seems too narrow and it seems to cut into the insulator of the antenna, was thinking about getting another after-market antenna holder (like a duratrax one or something)...

4) What was the advantage of turning the shocks the other way? I know that the stock rear arms has the extra set of mounting holes in the rear for some strange reason, what would be the best reason for doing so?

5) Final question, did you notice that the center drive shaft rubbed against the top deck of that chassis? I'm thinking about breaking in the car with a dummy motor on my motor-break-in function of my charger and just let it wear down before taking it to the track...

------

Animal, one thing to also take caution is to make sure you have the "rack" portion of the steering rack in the right direction. I had it flipped the other way around, which meant it looked more like a "n" when the nose is pointing upwards from the top view instead of looking like a "u". This caused my steering to be SEVERELY limited and I was dumbfounded for hours trying to figure out why this car had such a limited steering :blush:

After fixing this, I get full travel, up until it hits the center mounting nub of the lower gear box. People have shaved that down to get more steering travel, but I'm using an aluminum one so I'll have to mill it out...

------

Here are some Preliminary pics of my DF-03MS. Will list all the hop-up and upgrades after it's finished. I'm REALLY falling in love with the chassis type, the DF-03, the front kickup is fantastic for a 4WD! The layout seems like it was born out of a 2WD vehicle...

http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms24.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms25.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms26.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms28.jpg
http://www.lastantique.com/rcstuff/df03ms29.jpg

[DCM]

DCM, a few question about your DF-03:

1) Did you break any parts while you had that car? If so, which parts did you break the most?

I didn't break much, but then I didn't run it much either, the spares weren't available much, and that stopped me really running it.

2) How did you protect the chassis from nasty scratches? Did you use a chassis tape like the one from 3M?

I didn't, but you could use the Associated Chassis protection sheet?

3) How did you thread the antenna through the that antenna holder? The slot in that holder seems too narrow and it seems to cut into the insulator of the antenna, was thinking about getting another after-market antenna holder (like a duratrax one or something)...

I honestly can't remember, but don't seem to of had a problem with them in the past..

4) What was the advantage of turning the shocks the other way? I know that the stock rear arms has the extra set of mounting holes in the rear for some strange reason, what would be the best reason for doing so?

I did that, from memory, so I didn't have to have a two piece rear shock tower, so I made a single piece tower and mounted the shocks off the rear.

5) Final question, did you notice that the center drive shaft rubbed against the top deck of that chassis? I'm thinking about breaking in the car with a dummy motor on my motor-break-in function of my charger and just let it wear down before taking it to the track...

I did lots of trimming and stuff on the car, and yes, it is worth bedding the car in on a motor

[tom_chang79]

Animal, you can try some of the diff rebuild kit for Tamiya's other cars. Just make sure you have a 2x25mm partially threaded bolt and the T-Nut...

DCM, thanks for the info. I'm a little wary of running this car due to the lack of parts support... I wish the rear gear box, moving parts such as the diffs, were stocked at some hobby store out there... Maybe buying a cheap dark impact kit would be the way to go with getting spare parts (but what an ugly way to get spare parts)...

[tom_chang79]

Are there any sway bar/anti-roll bar kit for this car? There's obvious provisions for them looking at the front and rear gear box. If not, is there a kit meant for another car fit this car?

[tom_chang79]

Animal, try ordering it direct if you can't find the parts at your local hobby shop:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcpss.php?command=parts&kit_id=49496

Their prices aren't outrageous, will save you from buying a whole new kit for parts...

[Animal]

Well i think i finally.Got the front diff worked out.I ended up going to a couple of shops and found parts from AE and Losi to make it work.I was going to order it through are shop but had a hell of a time finding what i needed.So i went ahead and ordered 2 more df-03ms kits just to make sure i have some parts.Anyway i plan on getting back to it this week.:thumbsup:

[tom_chang79]

Well i think i finally.Got the front diff worked out.I ended up going to a couple of shops and found parts from AE and Losi to make it work.I was going to order it through are shop but had a hell of a time finding what i needed.So i went ahead and ordered 2 more df-03ms kits just to make sure i have some parts.Anyway i plan on getting back to it this week.:thumbsup:

Which parts did you use from AE and Losi? I would really like to know so I can skip Tamiya's part if I ever break mine...

Do you race with Ricky Bobby? I think he's from Fastraxxs also...

[Animal]

Ricky Bobby is me.When i signed up for rctech a while back that is the name i chose.But since then i have been nick named the animal at the tracks.So i have changed my name to animal.I will get you the part numbers of what i bought and what i had to do to get them to work.