Kyosho ZX6 4wd

[RudeTony]

As the title states really guys.
The new car hit the shops yesterday so lets have your thoughts on builds etc

[bomber]

When will the gear diffs be available?

Yes I am lazy and go through ball diffs quickly.

[rhys h]

Were hoping next month.

[DJ's Dad]

I really like the way Kyosho have gone about changing the car by moving the internal layout, but keeping a significant number of parts common to the ZX5 and RB6.

Like most I'm keen to see it in action as we learn which of the layout options work for the UK tracks.

[HOTSHOT III]

Will the carbon front tower and machined alloy tower mount seen on RudeTony's prototype be available?

This looked the absolute business at the SHRCCC regional:wub:drool:

[rhys h]

Well my ZX6 is all built up. Ran it on Tuesday night at maritime and the car was really nice to drive! Thought id post up some picture and info to show what you get with the kit to help people decide and learn abit more about the car.

All 4 suspension holders are made out of metal and come with a range of inserts to change the toe.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/EE668B57-E5E6-4ABA-BD8C-64BFDBBDB43B_zpsvwrsx2lf.jpg

The kit comes with ball diffs as standard same as the zx5 but they have a black little gear witch is stronger than the light coloured ones.
Gear diffs will be available for the car shortly.
Kit comes with loads of kyosho ball diff grease and joint grease.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/BE091600-49A0-4D08-A59F-142A329A00EF_zpssowpsmtt.jpg
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/E42EC518-BCEC-463E-882B-6266CC2899EF_zpsbenc4l1s.jpg

New car has loads of new stuff front and rear aswell as a aluminium chassis
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/2B98F4D2-8929-4624-9744-8B7CDF0873BC_zpssoca7wxm.jpg

As standard the car comes with a aluminium steering rack.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/A5AF80A5-0B06-499E-8462-F41707D83826_zpsvgl5exju.jpg

There is two different ways of installing the servo straight or sideways.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/AE216155-535D-43C0-91FA-1E7197A5D36D_zpsclj0pxwu.jpg

There is also an option of having the motor in the front or rear.
I've gone for the front with the saddles so the car is laid out the same as the zx5.
You can run shorty if you wish on either the left or the right.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/48F9C17C-3DBA-4430-86C6-C7E91EA63D08_zpsjpu8n2he.jpg

Car comes with 7* or 10* front carriers I've gone for the 7*
Kit comes with aluminium hex's all round.
I put the aluminium hubs on the rear but then changed them back to standard plastic because the car felt better on the track with plastic.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/F5D2235D-755E-42E9-8BC6-15E7B99824FF_zpsurvvuzwi.jpg

Kits coming together nicely build is very easy and everything fits together perfectly.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/C560BBDE-55D2-4857-9456-1066495DFBC2_zpsl1nzpime.jpg

Kit comes with full aluminium shocks.
With 2 hole pistons, gold springs all round.
I've put 5 hole pistons in from my zx5 and yellow front springs and pink rear springs. With 500 oil in the front and 400 oil in the rear.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/5F0E601E-0487-42F8-AF4D-4048AD4C69B1_zpsiahtruvo.jpg
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/175630D6-64CC-4D8D-B540-FFA76B2CA7FC_zps89sg9iih.jpg

The kit comes with a nice aluminium motor mount that slides making it very easy to take in and out the motor.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/E8DA17F4-40E5-4A25-8193-532055F7F941_zpsb38zn0hq.jpg
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/C16BCE09-C0A7-4F0C-9F10-EFF1AB0BEC13_zpsc4mr0rdp.jpg

With the shocks fitted, the car is all ready for electrics.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/EBA4F3A7-D33D-479B-8563-F4F57E5DEF0D_zpsnqz7jy8x.jpg

I've running an Orion R10 speedo and Orion 6.5t motor.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/7B2473F2-AAC1-4AEA-8C60-6ABDAA516AEA_zpsbvqiejna.jpg

New style forward cab boy shell as standard and two wings come in the kit. Shells painted up quite basic so I could get it out on the track.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/6B3590A8-C830-495F-94FB-36989B8FFC6F_zps2w5zouvz.jpg
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb351/rhysherd/E371CF56-C445-43CA-BA28-DEE69967B6A1_zpssfyy9uzv.jpg

[bigt]

Nice H
Just finished mine

[Neil Skull]

Great Job Rhys! Thanks for the Info:thumbsup:

[HOTSHOT III]

Excellent post by Rhys H:)

Looking at pic 8, the driveshafts seem to have the lengths printed on them. Can you tell me what these are? Thanks.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[bigt]

62.5R /73F

[HOTSHOT III]

62.5R /73F

Brilliant, thanks dude

[Gayo]

Can somebody please give me the length (pin to pin) of the center driveshafts? Thanks :thumbsup:

[muratti]

I am trying to find a EUROPE based online shop that has a ZX6 for sale but i seem to have no luck? Does anybody know where i can get one??

[discothesnake]

http://www.jemodels.com/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=KYOSHO-30046

Here you go

[muratti]

Perfect thanks! Now i only need someone who wants to buy my Tamiya TRF503 NIB :(

[Snowey]

Try here as well!

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/kits-offroad-buggy/kyosho-kits

[RogerM]

Can somebody please give me the length (pin to pin) of the center driveshafts? Thanks :thumbsup:

I measured them as I built it but don't have the manual to hand, will let you know when I get home.

[RudeTony]

have a read here if you haven't already gents

www.tonyevdoka.com

look under news

[Mr Eccleston]

Anyone know if the original zx5 shell will fit just in case mine is not back from the painters.

[Andyp]

Anyone know if the original zx5 shell will fit just in case mine is not back from the painters.

I have seen a pic of a zx6 with a zx5 proline bulldog shell on, looked ok although I'm not sure if any cutting was required

[RogerM]

Can somebody please give me the length (pin to pin) of the center driveshafts? Thanks :thumbsup:

Front 86mm, rear 60mm

[RogerM]

I have seen a pic of a zx6 with a zx5 proline bulldog shell on, looked ok although I'm not sure if any cutting was required

Just threw mine on from my ZX5-fs2 as I didn't have chance to get my shell to Adam to paint it ... still haven't which I need to sort out.

Fits "ok" I'd say, did resort to the body pins at the front though as it is otherwise not well enough supported.

[RogerM]

Before I go on I have to say an engineer who lives in a land where ±1 micron is a large tolerance I have to say how brilliantly the ZX6 goes together, the RB6 is truly world class but this kit is out of this world brilliant in the fit and finish department. The other point I want to make is that before you go throwing masses of aftermarket bling and even the Kyosho upgrades at it build this kit out of the box .... it's all in there, everything you need! I'd arm yourself with a couple of pairs of Xgear springs and take your kit built car to the track, nothing else needed!

A couple of points from my build ....

1) M3x18mm cap head screws to bolt the tower mounts to gearbox cases.
I did this on the ZX5 as if you round a head off you pretty much had to destroy the tower mount to get to the recessed head to get it apart .... on the ZX6 some of those recesses are very deep so I strongly suggest you do the same (never rounded off a cap head with a 2.5mm hex)

2) Shim up the steering assembly - until you build it you'll have no idea of HOW picky I'm being here ....
Kyosho have done an absolutely amazing job of tolerancing all the plastic parts on the ZX6, the fit is out of this world brilliant.
That makes the tiny tiny tiny amount of play in the steering setup stand out like a sore thumb (it is a tiny amount) so I fitted an axle shim under each lower bearing and all play has gone and the steering is like silk.

3) Aluminium spacers under ball studs
With time and flexing the plastic spacers will yield a little leaving the ball studs a fraction loose ... that play = oval holes = stripped thread.
Kyosho's plastics are without a doubt the best in the business but it is always sound engineering to use metal spacers / washers as they just don't give .... standard for all cars I build.

4) Grub screws in all empty ball stud holes
Helps keep the plastic flex free and supports the plastic around the holes with ball studs in when you go cartwheeling down the straight ... again standard on every car I build.

Build was truly a pleasure, so much so I want to build another one right now :thumbsup:

[Gayo]

Front 86mm, rear 60mm

Many thanks Roger. So the front bone is the same length as in my Redseal, but the rear bone is 70mm on the Redseal. Interesting.

Good infos here and on Tony's website. I should buy a ZX-6 before too long :D

[tyreman]

Before I go on I have to say an engineer who lives in a land where ±1 micron is a large tolerance I have to say how brilliantly the ZX6 goes together, the RB6 is truly world class but this kit is out of this world brilliant in the fit and finish department. The other point I want to make is that before you go throwing masses of aftermarket bling and even the Kyosho upgrades at it build this kit out of the box .... it's all in there, everything you need! I'd arm yourself with a couple of pairs of Xgear springs and take your kit built car to the track, nothing else needed!

A couple of points from my build ....

1) M3x18mm cap head screws to bolt the tower mounts to gearbox cases.
I did this on the ZX5 as if you round a head off you pretty much had to destroy the tower mount to get to the recessed head to get it apart .... on the ZX6 some of those recesses are very deep so I strongly suggest you do the same (never rounded off a cap head with a 2.5mm hex)

2) Shim up the steering assembly - until you build it you'll have no idea of HOW picky I'm being here ....
Kyosho have done an absolutely amazing job of tolerancing all the plastic parts on the ZX6, the fit is out of this world brilliant.
That makes the tiny tiny tiny amount of play in the steering setup stand out like a sore thumb (it is a tiny amount) so I fitted an axle shim under each lower bearing and all play has gone and the steering is like silk.

3) Aluminium spacers under ball studs
With time and flexing the plastic spacers will yield a little leaving the ball studs a fraction loose ... that play = oval holes = stripped thread.
Kyosho's plastics are without a doubt the best in the business but it is always sound engineering to use metal spacers / washers as they just don't give .... standard for all cars I build.

4) Grub screws in all empty ball stud holes
Helps keep the plastic flex free and supports the plastic around the holes with ball studs in when you go cartwheeling down the straight ... again standard on every car I build.

Build was truly a pleasure, so much so I want to build another one right now :thumbsup:

Roger I'm going to bring you a pack of wet wipes to the next meeting so you can wipe all of the man love off your car:woot:

[RogerM]

Roger I'm going to bring you a pack of wet wipes to the next meeting so you can wipe all of the man love off your car:woot:

Thanks Brian, I seem to have used up my stock over the last week :woot:

I'll have the car with me on Sunday if you fancied a drive of one, be interested in your feedback mate.

[tyreman]

Great bring it to Sweden and I'll give it a go.

[ron63]

The car is really a great and easy built, there is just one question... Maybe someone could explain me if i should run the slipper with or without that pin?
Many thanks, Ron.

http://s7.directupload.net/images/140717/zah2jvya.jpg (http://www.directupload.net)

[hloland]

The slipper is the same as ZX5 FS http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150377

[ron63]

Thanks for your help!
It's my first KYO car, so i really have no clue how this pin will affect the slipper with it in place or without.
Could please someone explain it to me?
Cheers,
Ron

[hloland]

When the pin is in the slipper, it works as a normal slipper, front and rear axle slipps equally.
When the pin is not there, the front and rear axle can slipp differently, and it is a dual slipper. You can change slipper discs: UM571, LA205, UM516 to adust the handeling. :)

[ron63]

Many thanks!
Now i understand how to work with it.
Cheers, Ron.

[ron63]

Hi.
Now i'd just need to know, which one of the slipper plates grabs the most and which slips the easiest!?
UM571....red ones, big
LA205....dual sheets red/white, small
UM516...stock white ones
Anyone?
Thanks, best whishes,
Ron

[tomtom]

Stock white ones with pin will be just perfect

If you want to try without the pin grab a red slipper pad to have different slipping properties front/rear (check FS2SP manual).

[RogerM]

most grip -----------> most slip
std white std red UM571 red

I've run the UM571 reds in the front of my Lazers when running non-pinned slipper (95% of the time) as I like the fact that it gives a little under braking helping prevent front wheel blocking as you carry brakes in to the corners which suits my heavy handed driving style.

As a note of caution if running non-pinned and different grades of pad front to rear and the slipper is / becomes too loose the car will feel like it has WAY too much front end. If your rear suddenly becomes loose check the slipper before adjusting setup.

Hope that helps.

ZX6 is an awesome car, the more I drive it the more I love it and interestingly the less I change track-track or condition-condition.

[RudeTony]

My advice gents is to run the car without the pin with both white slippers pads.
We have been doing a lot of testing and its the quickest at present

[ron63]

Thanks for your help, mates.
Tony, on what surface you've been testing that slipper-setup?
Here, we're mostly driving on medium grip clay tracks.
Cheers,
Ron

[RudeTony]

Thanks for your help, mates.
Tony, on what surface you've been testing that slipper-setup?
Here, we're mostly driving on medium grip clay tracks.
Cheers,
Ron

Hi Ron
Astro tracks - high grip - bumpy!
It works very well
Set up on my website and a revised one after this weeks National incase of any changes

[Holeshot]

Considering purchasing a ZX6. Anyone give some feedback at all and how durable/what parts I should keep?

[Dazzler]

I've seen a few photos now where people have gone rear motor LH / shorty lipo RH, servo / receiver RH side, speedo LH side.

But servo RH side isn't a build option as per the manual, and the servo mounting plate doesn't fit that side. So I'm curious to know how you fitted your servo? Directly to the chassis? And this also affects the steering bell cranks as they need to swap sides. Does this have any effect on the steering?

Also, anyone got a good indoor carpet set-up yet?

[RogerM]

Considering purchasing a ZX6. Anyone give some feedback at all and how durable/what parts I should keep?

Only parts I've seen break are the shock towers and they were after MASSIVE accidents that would have left most cars fit only for a hoover bag!

Very strong car but always advise keeping hubs, arms and front C-hubs/knuckles as you never know what might happen (or normally who might happen!)

[RogerM]

I've seen a few photos now where people have gone rear motor LH / shorty lipo RH, servo / receiver RH side, speedo LH side.

But servo RH side isn't a build option as per the manual, and the servo mounting plate doesn't fit that side. So I'm curious to know how you fitted your servo? Directly to the chassis? And this also affects the steering bell cranks as they need to swap sides. Does this have any effect on the steering?

Also, anyone got a good indoor carpet set-up yet?

All you need to do is trim off the little lugs and flip the mounting plate over. I did use some longer screws and some nuts but this isn't necessary as the servo is actually mounted via the posts so the loads on the mounting plate are very low, even with just a couple of threads you won't pull the screws out.

Yes the bell cranks need to swap sides but there is no ill effect, the cut outs are to clear when using the longitudinal servo location so not relevant.

Putting the servo that side gives near perfect balance when using a low-profile servo and all other electronics on the same side (except ESC obviously). This is of course on my scales, all Orion electronics.

If using a full size servo you will most likely need 10g next to ESC but the balance will still be better than the manual setup.

Hope that helps.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the reply.. I was wondering if there was a different handed mounting plate or if I'd gone mad.. So now I know. Cheers. My car is currently configured this way incidentally. I omitted the mounting plate as I couldn't really see it's purpose..

[RogerM]

The mounting plate is there to provide stability to the servo as the chassis flexes especially when you remove / loosen the side guard screws.
Works like the floating mounts on some other cars but simpler and lighter ... the Kyosho way ;)

[simonrhart]

I'm interested in hearing how the Zx6 drives on astro compared to the TLR 22-4.

You can get the kit in the US for a nice £360.

Cheers
Simon

[Dazzler]

Well it's all a bit quiet on the ZX6 front... Nobody got a good indoor carpet setup?

Has everybody put them on a shelf for the winter months?

[Andyp]

They are a few high grip astro setups on petit rc.... Somewhere to start

[big_whyman]

I've used this setup, recommended by Mr Evdoka since I have had the car. It has worked perfectly at:

Stotfold National;
Robin Hood National;
F2 finals at Boughon.
Silverstone Winter Series Rd1 (only change was to move the front shocks to the outside hole on the wishbones).

http://www.tonyevdoka.com/set-ups/zx-6-setups/

[charlesk]

I've used this setup, recommended by Mr Evdoka since I have had the car. It has worked perfectly at:

Stotfold National;
Robin Hood National;
F2 finals at Boughon.
Silverstone Winter Series Rd1 (only change was to move the front shocks to the outside hole on the wishbones).

http://www.tonyevdoka.com/set-ups/zx-6-setups/

Same here, but a couple more changes:
No Ackerman spacer
A bit less anti squat at the rear (3mm front 2 mm rear spacers)
Inner pure rear camber link (so longer rear links)
And finally medium tight front and rear diff

[simonrhart]

The setups are great, but I was kind of looking for just general feedback regarding the car. Does it perform out of the box?

Cheers
Simon

[charlesk]

The setups are great, but I was kind of looking for just general feedback regarding the car. Does it perform out of the box?

Cheers
Simon

Only 2 non kit items in my build:
A front set of springs (the kit ones are ok, just a touch soft for high grip surfaces)
The rudebits spine weight (though that is more for bumpy/ripply tracks)
So yes it's good out of the box and doesn't need much at all to get you to a decent pace.

[big_whyman]

The setups are great, but I was kind of looking for just general feedback regarding the car. Does it perform out of the box?

Cheers
Simon

Mine is standard from the box, apart from springs and because I run shorty batteries with the motor in line with the speedo, i've added a 46g weight under the shorty's to balance.

I have also used Associated springs on the car as they go up in steps of 0.1lb so allow for fine adjustments. Nothing wrong with the Kyosho springs of course :) (before Roger says anything :p)

Scott

[tyreman]

Mine is standard from the box, apart from springs and because I run shorty batteries with the motor in line with the speedo, i've added a 46g weight under the shorty's to balance.

I have also used Associated springs on the car as they go up in steps of 0.1lb so allow for fine adjustments. Nothing wrong with the Kyosho springs of course :) (before Roger says anything :p)

Scott

Plus you can get 3 pairs of ae springs for the price of 1 pair of kyosho springs👍

[RogerM]

Nothing wrong with the AE springs at all, I use them myself sometimes.

As far as general feedback is concerned for me it is a little early to tell as I've barely raced it yet, done quite a few hours track work for practice / setup etc but only actually raced her twice. One of those was my best 4wd regional result for several years, the other the car was good but I wasn't (trying to switch between 2wd & 4wd on the same day .... not something I'm good at).

Hopefully will have more feedback son

[leeboy44]

has anyone used gear diffs yet?

im more used to them from ball diffs, i plan to order my car soon with the gear diffs to go init

anymore updates on carpet set ups? we run on carpet at swansea.

my plan was to run kit set up but with gear diffs, what oils do you guys suggest


im that close that my shell is on the way to kifo paint as we speak :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

all help is greatly appreciated

[tomtom]

Kifo painting again ?
I miss his work, a lot.

Gear diffs are great, tried 10k/5k, a bit more drive than ball diffs but a bit more violent as well.

This car is just pur bliss, out of the box, especially the way it handles bumps and jumps, so far my best 4wd experience.
Elliot/Tony setup is great, to adjust to taste (I did lower the anti squat and put harder rear springs instead but I feel the car is already at ease, just a couple of things to better suit each driver).

550/350 for oil if I remember it right.

[leeboy44]

Kifo painting again ?
I miss his work, a lot.

Gear diffs are great, tried 10k/5k, a bit more drive than ball diffs but a bit more violent as well.

This car is just pur bliss, out of the box, especially the way it handles bumps and jumps, so far my best 4wd experience.
Elliot/Tony setup is great, to adjust to taste (I did lower the anti squat and put harder rear springs instead but I feel the car is already at ease, just a couple of things to better suit each driver).

550/350 for oil if I remember it right.


thanks very much buddy

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kifopaint/102000356525749

this is his facebook, been taking to him tonight so hes not hiding lol, said 10 day turn around on my shell :thumbsup::thumbsup:

anyway back to the car lol

would anyone say cut staggers would be a good idea?

[leeboy44]

what servo arms are you guys using?

i got the kit plastic one on but have any of you come across a alloy one?

[leeboy44]

here is mine,

nice build but its a pain in the butt cutting the parts off the tree's and trimming all the excess plastic from the parts

the shocks are AWSOME never seen shocks like these before

my shell is at the painters so i did this 1 quickly so i can run it sunday :)

[Mr Eccleston]

Have a look at LAW42 for an alloy servo arm. No real need for it as I've never had a problem with the kit plastic version.

Be interested to see how you get on with the esc at rear of motor, most would run it to the front. What surface are you racing on with the ZX6. I race on grass and was considering trying the esc to the rear, but being honest the car is so balanced with it to the front I really need to convince myself first.

[leeboy44]

Have a look at LAW42 for an alloy servo arm. No real need for it as I've never had a problem with the kit plastic version.

Be interested to see how you get on with the esc at rear of motor, most would run it to the front. What surface are you racing on with the ZX6. I race on grass and was considering trying the esc to the rear, but being honest the car is so balanced with it to the front I really need to convince myself first.


Hi, thanks for the info on the servo horn,

i will be running on carpet, i had a hotbodies d413 last and had my ESC in the same please so i thought i would try it this way and save d-soldering the wires to re-solder new wires on

this coming sunday will be my first outing with the car and cant wait :thumbsup:

any other tips? what roll bars do you keep?

thanks

[Mr Eccleston]

I had a D413 as well, but the ZX6 feels better to me.

Not raced it on carpet, just astro and grass. I ran kit setup with heaviest roll bar on front and the kit front on the rear.

Front springs I would try are Yellow or Orange, rears would probably be gold.

Car has loads of steering now so depending on track size and grip you may want to try staggers, worth having a set with you anyway.

[leeboy44]

just ordered the set of roll bars,

ive also fitted gear diffs, ive not built the ball diffs,

bit of a p*ss take £50odd for a gear diff and it dont with the bearings etc

ive gone for 10k front and 7k rear,

before i had the d413 i had a yokomo and never run a roll bar on the front also used 10k 10k in the diffs and it drove like a dream, i thought this might not be far off the yoko?? some say to run 5k in the rear on gear diffs in the zx6 so i went in-between lol

[Mr Eccleston]

Be interested to see how you like the gear diffs, I've always used the ball diffs. Found that if built right they last for a long time and work really well.

I've always felt gear diffs were partially down to your driving style as well, they tend to suit an aggressive driver, they tend to be very direct, maybe that's where I've been going wrong!

[leeboy44]

I've always felt gear diffs were partially down to your driving style as well, they tend to suit an aggressive driver, they tend to be very direct, maybe that's where I've been going wrong![/QUOTE]


yeah ive been known to be aggressive lol, i will post my set up sunday :)

[RogerM]

Definitely try the ESC in front of the motor, the ZX6 is not short of rear end grip and I've found the more I move the centre of mass forward the better the car has become!

[leeboy44]

Definitely try the ESC in front of the motor, the ZX6 is not short of rear end grip and I've found the more I move the centre of mass forward the better the car has become!

I do plan on it but time wise from me building it and work it was just easy for me to use this set up that come out the d413,

Next weekend I will have a go at the esc in front of the motor :)

Thanks for your reply

[Neil Skull]

Roger,
We have found we like the motor in rear position but with a differnent way of losing the rear end grip when on high grip tracks!
Have a look at recent set ups!!!!
See if you can see what we did?

http://www.kyoshoeurope.com/reports/elliots-talks-about-maritime-off-road-wars-setup-sheet/

[RogerM]

Thanks for the link Neil, always good to see what people are doing. Elliot is running his in Saddle pack form I see.

People forget how effective a tuning aid rear inboard toe and wheelbase can be with the Kyosho cars ;)

[Neil Skull]

Have a look at he Rear Anti Squat!!!! you have to Dremel the gearbox with that set up!!!!!

[RogerM]

Yes, saw the anti-squat ... run a fair bit myself ;)

Reducing grip by moving the hinge pin closer to the outdrive, I'd normally raise the inner ball stud by a similar amount so as not to raise the rear roll centre too much at the same time then work from there.

Sometimes do the opposite with the RB6 in extreme low grip situations by putting a spacer under the gearbox, MM over-motor brace and between gearbox and tower, generates a surprising amount of extra forward drive :)

One of the great things about the Kyosho cars, so many adjustments that can be combined in so many permutations. :thumbsup:

[leeboy44]

After your replies I've found some time to move my speedo before Sunday, can't wait to see what it's like

[Fozzy1989]

You will love it mate, I'm over the moon with the ZX6. Done a couple of meetings with it now, electrics in the same layout and bone stock set up as per manual and I'm soo pleased with the handling so far. Going to do another meeting before making changes but even then it would only be fine tuning I think.

Cheers
Chris

[leeboy44]

You will love it mate, I'm over the moon with the ZX6. Done a couple of meetings with it now, electrics in the same layout and bone stock set up as per manual and I'm soo pleased with the handling so far. Going to do another meeting before making changes but even then it would only be fine tuning I think.

Cheers
Chris


after looking at boot's set up and seeing hes lifted the front and rear hinge pin holders up closer to the drive cups so i might try this soon, ive got nothing much on tonight so i might sand the gearbox where the wishbones with foul so its a easy tune up at the track when i go to try it :)

what shock oils are you using?

ive fitted gear diffs as thats what im used to so 10k front and 7k rear is what im going to try sunday

[Fozzy1989]

I've gone 400/350 with the oils and feels perfect on what I would call a medium grip smooth indoor track. I'm going to pick up some gear diffs for when we go back outdoors with the astro. I'm quite a gentle driver so I feel for my driving the gear diffs make me push the buggy harder which I need on the high grip. I'll be sticking with balls indoors though, super smooth and just feel right :-)

Chris

[RogerM]

Raising the hinge pins is done to shave off some grip on very high grip surfaces, go the opposite way to generate a little extra.

[Magnus F]

Going to first practice with the car tomorrow on carpet
Gear diffs loaded up and ready:-)

[leeboy44]

used mine today, wow what a car!!!!

using gear diffs, 10K F and 7k R, shocks 700F 450R using kit non drilled pistons

put the spacer's under the rear hinge pin holders as boots dose and the rude bits weight, orange front springs

first time out for me and i had TQ and 2 final wins, best ive ever done :thumbsup:

[Magnus F]

I tested also my car today.
Stock setup except gear diffs with 10K front og 5K rear.
Car was working really good.
I had 350cst in front shocks and 250cst in rear shocks with stock piston. I had thickere oil in for the start but then the car was way to hard.
Probably going to 200cst in rear shocks for next time.

[Neil Skull]

Glad everyone is enjoying the car, especially as it works with so many different set ups for everyone's taste!

[RogerM]

Magnus, try drilling the rear pistons to 2x1.7 rather than going down in oil .... trust me ;)

[leeboy44]

Magnus, try drilling the rear pistons to 2x1.7 rather than going down in oil .... trust me ;)

Hi Roger, I'm using kit pistons non drilled and my oils are a lot higher then magnus, am I to high?? Or is he to low?? The car was faultless with the oils i had init

When it comes to drilling pistons I get lost

[Magnus F]

Magnus, try drilling the rear pistons to 2x1.7 rather than going down in oil .... trust me ;)

Im going to try that - thanks.
I raced on a track with different carpet types so traction depended on which type you was on:-)
I tried the orange Super hard springs in the front but it took too much steering out.
Going to drill the rear pistons and change rear toe in to 2.5 degrees for next time.

[Fozzy1989]

Lee I'm sure Roger will give you his opinion but I would say your oils are definitely too high. EP 4WD you tend to see oils range from about 250-500 as a general rule with the front stiffer than the back by 50-100 that's just from my experience see what everyone else chips in with. What springs did you use with your oils?

Cheers
Chris

[leeboy44]

Lee I'm sure Roger will give you his opinion but I would say your oils are definitely too high. EP 4WD you tend to see oils range from about 250-500 as a general rule with the front stiffer than the back by 50-100 that's just from my experience see what everyone else chips in with. What springs did you use with your oils?

Cheers
Chris


i could well be to high but the car was great!!

orange front springs and gold rear
kit pistons all round

thanks for the info :)

[Fozzy1989]

Whatever works for you mate different driving styles suit different set ups. I'd be interested to hear what roger has to say with regards Pistons as it's not really something I have messed about with too much.

Chris

[leeboy44]

Whatever works for you mate different driving styles suit different set ups. I'd be interested to hear what roger has to say with regards Pistons as it's not really something I have messed about with too much.

Chris

yeah im the same, im going to try losi oils with the 1.6f and 1.7r pistons next week

[eb4_boy]

Hi guys,

I'm Liam, and I do the Mechanicing for Bootsie.

At maritime for Elliott's car we went up in the oils from Kyosho 550 front and 350 rear to Losi 60wt front Losi 40wt rear. (We use the Losi Oils in 8th so wanted to use them in 10th also) I think in kyosho weight oils it would be 800 front 450/500 rear.

This helped the car stop pitching and transferring the weight so much. The car also generates a lot of traction from the design of the chassis/braces, and having the car soft just generated more traction which makes the car edgy and hard to drive.

If you've got any questions etc just ask will try and answer/help out.

[RogerM]

Very much depends on the surface & from my distant memories of Maritime it is really grippy.

Seems to me that Magnus & LeeBoy are running on fairly different grip levels.
Zx6 generates a ton of grip but does it a really balanced way.
One of the great features of the Kyosho cars is how responsive to setup cchanges they are.

If I was to go to Maritie any ttime soon I'd start on Elliott's set up.

On lower grip surfaces, although still fairly high as astro, I've found that generating a little more roll in the rear actually transfers weight diagonally forward so aids steering. RB6 is similar.

Works for me but I don't make the demands on the car Bootsie does lol

[eb4_boy]

Yeah, for a high traction track the maritime setup would be the place to start.

We haven't tried the car on astro of varying grip levels like this yet (harder setup) but will when we get chance to see how it reacts.

[Capt Hilts]

Hi all,

I’m about to start building my ZX-6 shortly and would like to confirm with all of you that have run the car indoors what would be the best battery layout to use - shorty or saddle ??? :eh?:
I will be running the car indoors on mixture of carpet and polished gym floor.

Thanks for any advice you may offer me - hope the car is as good as everybody says it is !!

[Neil Skull]

That's the biggest question to ASK.
We got guys swear by both, and they both work,It seems car is easier to get right to left balance perfect with Shorty but i think the front to rear Bias is the key ! So for me Saddles is the way, that's what Elliott runs with great success.

[Mr Eccleston]

Neil

With the shorty option, the motor being to the rear as well, that will give more rear bias (compared to saddles and motor forward), would this suggest requiring even more height on the rear inner hinge pins.

Derek

[leeboy44]

I run boots set up be with shorty on high grip carpet and it was great

[RogerM]

You'll be surprised how close weight distribution is between shortie + rear motor and the saddle layout, I certainly was!
Main difference is just overall weight, I like the car light but that is presonal preference.

If you want to throw the weight bias forwards use the shortie + motor forward option.

[aberscoob]

Anyone got a setup for wet grass

[Mr Eccleston]

Kit without roll bars.

[Magnus F]

Magnus, try drilling the rear pistons to 2x1.7 rather than going down in oil .... trust me ;)

Only had a 1.8mm drill so thats what i did.
Probably going to raise the shock oil 50cst.
Going to test it this sunday.

[Superstar]

Hi

I have read this thread with interest as I am on the verge of getting one myself. It seems like the most popular layout is to run the shorty in a config which is not listed in the manual. Why is that? Is it so much better than the other layouts? I was thinking of running it in saddle and noticed Elliot Boots runs it like that but he does seem to be in a minority?

Whats the main differences?

Thanks :thumbsup:

[Mr Eccleston]

In shorty layout, if you have lipo and servo down one side, and esc and motor the other, with orion electrics it's almost perfectly balanced, other brands probably will be close as well, just need to check what you use.

Nothing wrong with saddles either, it just gives a small front to rear weight bias difference compared to using shorty, being honest both layouts are good, you really need to try them back to back to see what you prefer.

If you have saddles just now try that layout and see if you like it, it's a great car.

[shaungooner]

just skipping back a few posts on the rear hinge pin height subject

does anyone have an image of the modification required to the gear box housing, is it just a small dremel job?

[Neil Skull]

Just a Small dremel job.

[shaungooner]

Thanks Neil

Don't suppose anyone has posted a how to guide on this any where?

[Neil Skull]

If you go for the raised gearbox set up you will see where the wishbones hit the gearbox,
Just dremel until it clears ok!

[dMITIj]

ive also fitted gear diffs, ive not built the ball diffs,

bit of a p*ss take £50odd for a gear diff and it dont with the bearings etc


if i buy the gear diffs (LAW50) is there any other thing that is needed to make it run/fit?

[Magnus F]

if i buy the gear diffs (LAW50) is there any other thing that is needed to make it run/fit?

Nope.
I have build mine like this:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setupzx6/ZX6_BenSterling_How2BuildGearDiff/
So far i have tested:
F - R
10k - 5k
10k - 7k
7k - 5k
7k - 7k
I have found 7k front and rear working best for me on indoor carpet.
Going to another indoor track next week for some more testing.

[leeboy44]

I'm on 10k 10k and this for me is the best yet

I run this in my old yokomo bmax

Zx6 is a great car

[dMITIj]

Nope.
I have build mine like this:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setupzx6/ZX6_BenSterling_How2BuildGearDiff/
So far i have tested:
F - R
10k - 5k
10k - 7k
7k - 5k
7k - 7k
I have found 7k front and rear working best for me on indoor carpet.
Going to another indoor track next week for some more testing.

Yes but in that build of the gear diff he is saying:

"We throw these plastic bushes out and add two 5x8x2.5 bearings. This gives the diff outdrives a lot more support in the diff casing, but you will find also that your diffs last 10 times longer as most of the binding from the plastic bush is now gone. Your diffs also run cooler and smoother. Make sure the o-ring is seated nicely in the casing once the bearing is inserted and is not pinched."

So ill like som 5x8x2.5 bearings and if i understand it correct ill have to buy them as they are not comming with the gear diff? If so can anyone suggest some good bearings? with a link for it?

Is anything else needed right from the go for this kit build?

[Dazzler]

I used these bearings in my diffs..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151358410461?redirect=mobile

[Magnus F]

Yes but in that build of the gear diff he is saying:

"We throw these plastic bushes out and add two 5x8x2.5 bearings. This gives the diff outdrives a lot more support in the diff casing, but you will find also that your diffs last 10 times longer as most of the binding from the plastic bush is now gone. Your diffs also run cooler and smoother. Make sure the o-ring is seated nicely in the casing once the bearing is inserted and is not pinched."

So ill like som 5x8x2.5 bearings and if i understand it correct ill have to buy them as they are not comming with the gear diff? If so can anyone suggest some good bearings? with a link for it?

Is anything else needed right from the go for this kit build?

The 5x8x2.5 bearings is not included in the gear diff.
Im using Kyosho bearings because they are really good quality.
http://www.jemodels.com/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=KYO-BRG002

[Hobie]

My ZX6 is great, I love this car ! Here is a short video of mine in my home track in Hong Kong. The track is little big for 1/10 but gives a lot of excitement with the double/double/double section ;-). Enjoy.

http://youtu.be/tAWHm0n26ew

[Jac]

My ZX6 is great, I love this car ! Here is a short video of mine in my home track in Hong Kong. The track is little big for 1/10 but gives a lot of excitement with the double/double/double section ;-). Enjoy.

http://youtu.be/tAWHm0n26ew

Awesome! Do we have any tracks like this in the UK anyone?

[trr061984]

I suppose Storm Valley was the last thing that we had like it but it was about 1/4 the size of that and now its shut. So no would be the answer I think!

[Jac]

I suppose Storm Valley was the last thing that we had like it but it was about 1/4 the size of that and now its shut. So no would be the answer I think!

That's a shame really. Roll on the outdoor season!!

[Jac]

ZX6 built completely stock. Set up suggestions please to calm it down on slippy? Like a bullet on high grip then much harder than an angry 2wd on slip...
Good turn in but then it just over rotates on the slippy...

[RogerM]

Will post my set-up when I get home but was VERY happy with it on a greasy Kidderminster track after latest set-up changes.

What configuration have you built it in?

Do you have the RudeBits spine weight?

[Jac]

Hi Roger,

I have built it saddles. Don't think I've got a spine weight but can get one quickly.

Look forward to reading the set up.

Cheers

[Neil Skull]

Check carefully the rear Inserts are correct on the wishbone hanger.
The manual has an appendium and it has confused a few!

Elliott and most others use:-

Rear front holder "D" Rear Rear holder "C"
Rear front Holder spacer "4" Rear rear holder "2"

[RogerM]

Hi Roger,

I have built it saddles. Don't think I've got a spine weight but can get one quickly.

Look forward to reading the set up.

Cheers

I would image that there will be quite a difference in the sweet spot between saddles and shortie...

[lee.willows]

Gents does the spine weight make that much differance to planting the rear? Or would weight under saddles just as good?

[RogerM]

Adding weight out wide as with under saddle weights dulls the ability of the car to react to rapid direction changes which is good in some situations and bad in others.

Adding the weight along the centre line does not dull the ability of the car to react but does help the weight distribution equally (for equal weight).

I run the RudeBits weight with typically 2 x 5g weigths on top.

HTH

[Jac]

Lee,
Didn't you weigh my brothers zx6 on your corner scales and it was 50/50 weight distribution? (front to back)

Cheers
Jamie

[lee.willows]

Jaime,

Weighed your bro's ZX6, and it was 50/50 left right and 50/50 front to rear, car is built saddles, motor forward and servo side ways.

I have ran mine now and definitely needs weight on rear. Just not sure where but roger sorted that out.

Regards lee

[fil9144]

Just finished wiring my car up to find I made a school boy error of putting the diffs in the wrong way.. Found it so easy to change as the car seems so easy to work on.

[lee.willows]

Gents,

what is the consensus on the car set up yet, shorty or saddles?

cheers

lee

[RogerM]

Only run it in shortie so far, seems I prefer the car to be stiffer sprung in the rear with shortie than most do with saddles so not sure what you can read in to that.

Saddles should be more planted but I'm happy enough with the shortie car now so sticking with it, will upload a base shortie setup soon.

[leeboy44]

Only run it in shortie so far, seems I prefer the car to be stiffer sprung in the rear with shortie than most do with saddles so not sure what you can read in to that.

Saddles should be more planted but I'm happy enough with the shortie car now so sticking with it, will upload a base shortie setup soon.

with outdoors coming up on us is there any chance of a base set up got grass??

Thanks

[RogerM]

Hi mate, I can't think of anywhere local enough to head to that still runs grass! I do tend to find that I change cars very little from Kidderminster setup to grass due to all the surface changes and bumps at Kiddy meaning you have to go for a "safe" setup. Will be posting one up very soon.

[Balders]

Most if not all the rounds are on grass in the WRCA roger, you should come down for them! :)

Ball diffs over gear diffs on grass Lee, especially when things start to cut up I reckon! :)

[Stu Dixon]

were can I get a chassis protector from for the ZX6 ?
Cheers
Stu

[leeboy44]

Stu je models sell them, think they are about £17 ish??

Mike I might have to give them a a try (maybe lol)

Have you run yours yet mike? What do you think of it??

[Mr Eccleston]

Contact afun1979 on here, might not be as funky but they are functional, lot cheaper as well. Come with all the screw holes precut, you just remove those that you require, when you need to.

[RogerM]

Most if not all the rounds are on grass in the WRCA roger, you should come down for them! :)

Ball diffs over gear diffs on grass Lee, especially when things start to cut up I reckon! :)

If they don't clash with mid west regionals I might just do a few as a guest.

Oh and your not wrong about ball diffs being better on a cut up track either!

[Balders]

Stu je models sell them, think they are about £17 ish??

Mike I might have to give them a a try (maybe lol)

Have you run yours yet mike? What do you think of it??

Good car, balanced and very easy to drive straight out the box after adding a bit or weight in the back. I would say though that its not as much fun as the Hot bodies as that was just a mad mad car but its certainly faster in my hands as I can be more consistent with it.

I've only really had one club night running it so am looking forward to another go this Friday.

Feel free to pop over! Racing starts at 7:30 so if you let us know to book you in that should give you some time to get over.

https://www.facebook.com/CaldicotRCR

[Stu Dixon]

So just about ready to run my ZX6 for the first time this Sunday outdoor at Bury :thumbsup:

Only spare parts I have are some new front and rear towers but I have a shed load of spares from my ZX5 FS2 and was wondering what parts are compatible ?

I didn't build the ZX6 so not sure

[Capt Hilts]

Hi there,

Quite a lot of parts are shared from the FS/2
Wishbones are LA272 , Front and rear hubs are also the same, but not the knuckle arms which is why they carry a different part number.
Front and rear driveshafts are the same (but not the centre ones) .
Then the Diffs - these are pretty much the same.
Lastly the wheels and hex’s.
I think that’s all…….

Hope this help you ??

Cheers - Rob.

[Stu Dixon]

Hi there,

Quite a lot of parts are shared from the FS/2
Wishbones are LA272 , Front and rear hubs are also the same, but not the knuckle arms which is why they carry a different part number.
Front and rear driveshafts are the same (but not the centre ones) .
Then the Diffs - these are pretty much the same.
Lastly the wheels and hex’s.
I think that’s all…….

Hope this help you ??

Cheers - Rob.

Yeh that helps, cheers Rob :thumbsup:
I have so many spares for the FS2 so no point in buying loads of duplicate parts.

[Stu Dixon]

Hi mate, I can't think of anywhere local enough to head to that still runs grass! I do tend to find that I change cars very little from Kidderminster setup to grass due to all the surface changes and bumps at Kiddy meaning you have to go for a "safe" setup. Will be posting one up very soon.

Hi Roger,
Any chance of looking at your setup for out door astro ?
Cheers
Stu

[RogerM]

PM me your email address Stu.

I'm still working on the ZX6, only been able to work with shortie thus far and I'd like to try saddles too.

[HOTSHOT III]

I've heard of some people running DEX410 gear diffs in the ZX6, how easy is this to do?

[bomber]

I've heard of some people running DEX410 gear diffs in the ZX6, how easy is this to do?

I am running them as had them left from my DB2, you must use the Durango crown gear as well with the Kyosho drive cup, you have to shim them quite a bit to get them right and also quiet but they are bullet proof once installed especially with the machined gears. If you have Durango diffs sitting around then its worth it if not just stick the Kyosho ones in.

While running over the winter indoors at Maritime I was breaking a lot of wishbones, I got fed up so decided to try another option, I fitted Durango DEX410 wishbones, with a few very small mods they fit straight on and the geometry is perfect, they are also a hell of a lot stronger than the Kyosho ones, I am also using the 410 roll bars as these need to be longer.
I know a lot of you will say why I don't break them, maybe it was just the cold and me being unlucky but I done a hell of a lot

Since I've had the car I've run shorty and thought the car was great to drive, but after 3 months I thought I would try saddles, the car is more predictable and consistent so I will be sticking with them for the outdoors as well.

[ChrissieL]

TKR does them as he used my ZX6 as a template

were can I get a chassis protector from for the ZX6 ?
Cheers
Stu

[jpmatrix]

TKR does them as he used my ZX6 as a template

Who are TKR? team kyosho racing? , if you could please put a link as im looking for a protector for my zx6.

[RogerM]

www.tkrgraphics.com

[ChrissieL]

www.tkrgraphics.com (http://www.tkrgraphics.com)

It covers the main chassis plate.

[Dazzler]

I've been running the one made by Afun1979 here on oOple, here's a link to the ones he makes.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158065

A nice protector, he's made them for many different chassis now, never heard anything negative about them..

[jpmatrix]

TKR does them as he used my ZX6 as a template

I've been running the one made by Afun1979 here on oOple, here's a link to the ones he makes.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158065

A nice protector, he's made them for many different chassis now, never heard anything negative about them..

Thanks, but already contacted him and he doesn't do them anymore.

[jpmatrix]

www.tkrgraphics.com

Thanks Roger .

I emailed them this afternoon and they replied immediately.

Will order from them this week.


James

[Stilli]

.......
While running over the winter indoors at Maritime I was breaking a lot of wishbones, I got fed up so decided to try another option, I fitted Durango DEX410 wishbones, with a few very small mods they fit straight on and the geometry is perfect, they are also a hell of a lot stronger than the Kyosho ones, I am also using the 410 roll bars as these need to be longer.
I know a lot of you will say why I don't break them, maybe it was just the cold and me being unlucky but I done a hell of a lot ......


Hi Bomber, I know this was an old post but I am currently experiencing similar problems mostly due to my driving I know. I would be interested to know exactly what small mods are required to use the Durangos and how it affected the performance if at all.

[bomber]

Hi Bomber, I know this was an old post but I am currently experiencing similar problems mostly due to my driving I know. I would be interested to know exactly what small mods are required to use the Durangos and how it affected the performance if at all.

You need to remove about 2 mm of material from the rear of the wish bone on the inner hingepin and drill out the outer hingepin to 3.1mm, I then used RB6 rear outer hingepins with spacers as they are a bit too long, if you are running rollbars then you will need to use the Durango bars as they need to be longer to reach the new mounting position.
No difference in performance just stronger as more material around inner hingepin

[Stilli]

You need to remove about 2 mm of material from the rear of the wish bone on the inner hingepin ..........

Thanks for the info Bomber

[Kowalski]

Looks like kyosho is coming out with a new chassis for the zx6. It will move the motor forward. I saw a pic in a Japanese website and looking at it I think it will give a future option for a center diff. The milled out area looks a lot bigger. Part number law54:

http://kyoshoshop-online.com/kyosho/goods/index.html?cid=99999&ggcd=LAW54

What would be the advantage of running a centre diff over a slipper, and why would they move the motor forward?

[MHeadling]

I have heard conflicting views on the new chassis , some say it's got more machining and will give more flex so more suited to dirt/low traction

Others saying its a high grip chassis that's stiffer than kit

Has anyone tried one yet??

[olefiloux]

Hi MH.
One of my friends had it on his zx6 last WE for the french nat's on our Maisons Alfort Astro track.
The chassis is same lenght than the first one, the motor is clearly on the front, it is less machined on the surface. More rigid, for sure.
When you take it on your hands to flex it, the chewing gum effect had just desappeared.

Seems to be a good improvement for astro track according to my friend.

[MHeadling]

Thank for the information!

It would be good if you can get some images of the car??

[olefiloux]

Mark, did you finally buy the new chassis?

[MHeadling]

No not yet, found a great set up from a club mate and the car is going great at the moment so don't really feel the need to try the chassis at the moment

I'll report back if/when I get one on the car

[RogerM]

Go on Mark, share that setup ;)

[MHeadling]

I'll update the Facebook group soon! ;)

[Dazzieboy]

I'll update the Facebook group soon! ;)

What is the facebook group of which you speak? :confused:

[MHeadling]

This one :)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/492050687601155/

[Stilli]

It's been a while since anyone posted about their preferences for Gear Diffs and Diff Oil weights as in previous posts the car was relatively new.

I would be interested in an update on Gear v's Ball diffs for High Grip surfaces and in the case of Gear diffs what oil weights drivers have stuck with?

(In earlier posts 10k+10k or 7k+7k seemed to be the preference for high grip)

[RogerM]

Personally I prefer the ball diffs in all conditions, I just tighten them up a fraction in high grip. The diffs last well if built properly and Xgear greases are used.

[mmobee1]

Hi liam,

Have you got any basic / starting set ups for the ZX6 with the following track condition:

UK, dirt, with hard (rough base), and loose top dust
Jumps aren't too high, but several doubles and triples
Lap times are around the 32 sec. time for fast guys

I know it's very, very difficult to be precise, but I'm sure their are generic settings (for all tracks) or that are consistent with the above

Your help is appreciated


Cheers,

Mike :)

[bigt]

dirt track where?

[Arn0]

Mike,
Have a look here for setups: http://www.petitrc.com/index.php?/setupsheet.html/

[hans123]

It's been a while since anyone posted about their preferences for Gear Diffs and Diff Oil weights as in previous posts the car was relatively new.

I would be interested in an update on Gear v's Ball diffs for High Grip surfaces and in the case of Gear diffs what oil weights drivers have stuck with?

(In earlier posts 10k+10k or 7k+7k seemed to be the preference for high grip)

I prefer geardiffs, i'm using 7k-7k on medium grip astro. On high grip i use 10k-10k. At very low grip track, the car works very wel with the balldiffs, you get a lot more traction if you get them adjusted right.