SWIRC Vintage Class

[Belms]

Matt and I have been chatting for a while about running a vintage class, so thought it might be good to start a thread for those interested :)

I'm particularly interested in this as I used to race a Schumacher Top Cat and Cougar in the late 80's / early 90's. I raced against many RC10's, and always wanted a gold pan RC10, and those who know me will have seen my new re-re gold pan, and I'm keen to get it on the track! :D

I did try it out on the track last night, however, the standard Pro-Line Champion/Edge tyres were hopeless on the carpet, kept spinning out on the corners! I'm hoping I've found a solution in some old school RC10 2.2" 5 spoke wheels, so I've ordered some, and another set of carpet tyres - should be here in time for next Thursdays race evening! I also have a 1992 Cougar which needs a little work before it can come along. I'll post up some pics of the RC10 & Cougar when I get on the proper computer.

Would love to hear thoughts of anyone interested in running a vintage class! :D :thumbsup: Any pics of vintage/re-re/classic cars you might be able to bring along appreciated too!! :drool:

[36racing]

Ive been looking into the cars etc etc and I think if you want to go proper vintage, you will need say a time region, or something along the lines of that. I know of quite a few locals/not so locals that most likely will come down and have a go, just a matter of time to see if the class can grow.

-Josh

[Belms]

I've seen other places who do have 2 or 3 divisions based on year, however, that's probably only necessary if it gets really busy! Probably more immediately helpful would be some sort of motor limit/guidelines. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not really interested in a vintage class because I want to win, but rather want an excuse to have some fun racing these great old cars around the track! :D The modern 2wd would be the class to enter otherwise.

As a starter, perhaps cars *designed* before 2000? This allows for vintage and classic re-re models. Perhaps a stock level motor... 17.5T or equivalent. I've currently got a Reedy 3300kv in the RC10, but don't know the turn rating - it's not that quick, it's the standard brushless motor AE put in their RTRs. I have had a brushed Tamiya RS540 sport tuned (23T) in it too, but it's a pain because I then have to carry NiMH as well as LiPo, but do-able if necessary.

Further thoughts welcome! :)

[Belms]

I have seen other places giving out extra points for those using old school radio gear, NiCd/NiMH batteries, brushed motors, and mechanical speed controllers, in addition to having motor guidelines and division by manufacture date, however those things probably only work when you have lots of folk attending :o Probably best to keep it as simple as possible to begin with...

[36racing]

Yeah, keeping it simple would be best to start aha.
Also we wouldnt want it to be expensive, we want a fearly easy to get and run class, I myself am looking at the rc10 classic (A shop I know has one in stock for 189) I want to know what kind of motor/esc I should go for aswell as any info on that kit.

*edit*- also it would be cool to get the vintage ones on NiCd/NiMH's and brushed motors....

-Josh

[Belms]

Here is my re-re RC10 gold pan, B4.2 with matching paintwork behind:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14687195440_91285b5c60.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/onRHvA)RC10 Classic & RC10 B4.2 with Classic paint job :-) (https://flic.kr/p/onRHvA)

Schumacher Cougar 'Club 10' (1992):
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14589455538_9573f77932.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oedLQS)1992 Schumacher Cougar Club 10 Turbo (https://flic.kr/p/oedLQS)

:D

[Belms]

Yeah, keeping it simple would be best to start aha.
Also we wouldnt want it to be expensive, we want a fearly easy to get and run class, I myself am looking at the rc10 classic (A shop I know has one in stock for 189) I want to know what kind of motor/esc I should go for aswell as any info on that kit.

*edit*- also it would be cool to get the vintage ones on NiCd/NiMH's and brushed motors....

-Josh

If you go for the RC10 Classic (and it would be fab to have another gold pan at the track!!:D ), JC Racing ( http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/home/ ) do 2.2" 5 spoke wheels, from an original 1989 mold, that fit without upgrading the axels etc... only £8.25 for set of 4. Waiting on delivery of mine :thumbsup:

I wanted a Reedy motor for mine, but they don't seem to do a brushed, so I went with their standard brushless (I already had a spare ESC & motor).... but yes, would also be cool to run NiMH and brushed... you could go all out and run old school 27MHz with freq crystals too:woot::wtf: (ok, perhaps that would be a pain... I don't miss dodging those long aerials on the rostrum one bit!! :p)

Edit: Reedy do a 17T brushed motor. Might get one if we decide to go NiMh/brushed for the class

[36racing]

Yeah im just planning the place where I can get the funds for it at the moment, Those wheels should be great and yeah I wanted myself to stay with the reedy // ae partnership they had going on with the RC10's to almost make it as realistic as it was back then:)

Also, would like to look for actual vintage motors to try, they go fairly cheap on the bay, replace the brushes and they should be good. It would be cool having old school looking motor and electrics in it.

Love the look of old school motors like this : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Ironman-Brushed-Motor-16-Double-16x2-Modified-For-Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-R-/151369670977?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item233e55e141

[Belms]

Yeah im just planning the place where I can get the funds for it at the moment, Those wheels should be great and yeah I wanted myself to stay with the reedy // ae partnership they had going on with the RC10's to almost make it as realistic as it was back then:)

Also, would like to look for actual vintage motors to try, they go fairly cheap on the bay, replace the brushes and they should be good. It would be cool having old school looking motor and electrics in it.

Love the look of old school motors like this : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Ironman-Brushed-Motor-16-Double-16x2-Modified-For-Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-R-/151369670977?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item233e55e141

Yup, I wanted to keep it Reedy for the same reason, but didn't want to go modified (with all the com cutting and suchlike, which has put me off vintage ones a bit), however, this brushed Reedy looks the part: http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/61585/

I thought this LRP brushed ESC would go well with it: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/electronic-speed-controls/rc-car-categories/9920/992010&ManufacturerID=26&MSAttributeID[21]=564
Simple, nothing too fancy, and also a historic relationship with AE...

I'm sticking with the Reedy brushless setup for now, but might well get the above setup as funds allow :D

[36racing]

Will probably end up getting that motor aha, dont know what esc your talking about? too many on the page aha!

-Josh

[Belms]

Will probably end up getting that motor aha, dont know what esc your talking about? too many on the page aha!

-Josh

Oops, wrong link; this one: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/lrp-a.i.-runner-reverse-v2.0-brushed-esc/rc-car-products/383082

[36racing]

Sweet, just need to get some funds!

[Rtsbasic]

I still have some dusty full spikes from my old RC10 B3 for grass running :D

I'm keen on the idea of getting a vintage class going, I'll keep my eyes peeled for a bargain on an RC10 of some kind :)

I was looking at the RC10 B3 earlier, brings back a lot of memories. And re-released as a Thunder Tiger Phoenix so spares are a plenty. Is 1997 vintage enough? :thumbsup:

[36racing]

I would say 1997 would be fine as its pre-2000 and its still older than me!:)

-Josh

[Rtsbasic]

Really?!? Colour me impressed :)

Will keep an eye out for a bargain. Its nice the track has its own sub-forum here!

[36racing]

Yeah, only took me a few seconds to message jimmy on facebook and he took care of it.

(On about the subforum)

-Josh

[Belms]

I still have some dusty full spikes from my old RC10 B3 for grass running :D
I'm keen on the idea of getting a vintage class going, I'll keep my eyes peeled for a bargain on an RC10 of some kind :)
I was looking at the RC10 B3 earlier, brings back a lot of memories. And re-released as a Thunder Tiger Phoenix so spares are a plenty. Is 1997 vintage enough? :thumbsup:
Good to hear you're keen too! As Josh said, 1997 is good!

I would say 1997 would be fine as its pre-2000 and its still older than me!:)
-Josh
I thought pre-2000 also. And shocking! :woot::p

We should put our heads together if we get a few mins on Thursday to think about motors etc too.

Yeah, only took me a few seconds to message jimmy on facebook and he took care of it.
(On about the subforum)
-Josh
Nice job, a great idea!

[36racing]

Yes, will be good to set a control motor and maybe a control tire for the Vintage class, not to make it expensive, to make it easier on people.

-Josh Hardwick

[MattV6]

I'm loving the comments on here guys :)

Having a chat on Thursday would be a good idea :)

If we could get a set of guidelines/rules down for the Vintage class that would be good :)

Also as some of the older vintage cars aren't as strong and the parts are in some cases very hard to get we need to race a bit more gentlemanly :) I'm just thinking if someone brings along their car to be taken out at the end of the straight at speed with a unneeded over taking manoeuvre someone's not going to be very happy. Of course battle it out like in any other race but just remember to keep in mind the rarity of some of the spare parts lol.

I agree pre 2000 would be classed as Vintage, thats almost 15 years ago now. Or we could go a little further back and say 1995 and thats almost 20 years?

Personally i would have thought 2000 would be better as it opens the choice of cars up for a vintage class and spares etc :)

[36racing]

I Agree.
You could just lay down the obvious racing rules to people with if a driver is faster than you, yeah give him a battle for a bit, but if your slowing him down, move over etc etc...

*Edit* - Matt im also trying to get you moderator as we speak.

-Josh

[Belms]

Yes, will be good to set a control motor and maybe a control tire for the Vintage class, not to make it expensive, to make it easier on people.
-Josh Hardwick

I'm loving the comments on here guys :)
Having a chat on Thursday would be a good idea :)
If we could get a set of guidelines/rules down for the Vintage class that would be good :)
Also as some of the older vintage cars aren't as strong and the parts are in some cases very hard to get we need to race a bit more gentlemanly :) I'm just thinking if someone brings along their car to be taken out at the end of the straight at speed with a unneeded over taking manoeuvre someone's not going to be very happy. Of course battle it out like in any other race but just remember to keep in mind the rarity of some of the spare parts lol.
I agree pre 2000 would be classed as Vintage, thats almost 15 years ago now. Or we could go a little further back and say 1995 and thats almost 20 years?
Personally i would have thought 2000 would be better as it opens the choice of cars up for a vintage class and spares etc :)

I Agree.
You could just lay down the obvious racing rules to people with if a driver is faster than you, yeah give him a battle for a bit, but if your slowing him down, move over etc etc...
-Josh

Great :thumbsup:
As I see it then, things to consider before Thursday re. Guidelines:
Pre-2000 & Re-re (pre-2000 design) seems to be agreed :D
Tyres: control tyre? Bear in mind some old cars don't take modern tyres (e.g. My Tamiya Hornet has very non-standard wheels)
Motor: brushed and/or brushless? Turn/kV limits? This is probably the important factor...
Batteries: NiCd/NiMH only or LiPo ok too?
And important to bear in mind Josh's point about cost and Matt's on keeping the old cars 'safe' due to difficulty in obtaining parts (keeping speed down?)

Anyway, I think that's it for now.... I'm holding off getting motor/esc until we are decided!
Barry

[Rtsbasic]

Pre 2000 sounds good, it'd make sure the cars are different to what we use today but without being too restrictive, like you guys say some parts just don't exist any more.

Now you need to find an old Losi XX CR Matt ;)

IMO, lipo's are handy because everybody already has them. I don't miss having to balance NIMH's or deep discharge Nicd's to keep them healthy.

I'd be up for keeping power levels "stock" or thereabouts, I think they'd still be pretty quick around the track even with 27T brushed/17.5T brushless motors.

Something to think about Thurs :)

[36racing]

In my opinion, I would want to run a cheapy brushed Motor+ESC and NIMH pack to keep it reasonably crap to drive. To almost make it battle of the driver and not the car, as you see in the 2wd class the KF is just haulin' ass.

Also, people have discussed this in another thread somewhere for a different occasion/track. I will find that and quote some things to see what you guys think?

-Josh

[Belms]

Pre 2000 sounds good, it'd make sure the cars are different to what we use today but without being too restrictive, like you guys say some parts just don't exist any more.

IMO, lipo's are handy because everybody already has them. I don't miss having to balance NIMH's or deep discharge Nicd's to keep them healthy.

I'd be up for keeping power levels "stock" or thereabouts, I think they'd still be pretty quick around the track even with 27T brushed/17.5T brushless motors.

Something to think about Thurs :)

In my opinion, I would want to run a cheapy brushed Motor+ESC and NIMH pack to keep it reasonably crap to drive. To almost make it battle of the driver and not the car, as you see in the 2wd class the KF is just haulin' ass.

Also, people have discussed this in another thread somewhere for a different occasion/track. I will find that and quote some things to see what you guys think?

-Josh

I agree 'stock(-ish?' Is a good plan; I can see Richards thoughts on LiPo, but I can also see Josh's keeping it 'reasonably crap' with NiMH and brushed as being a good thing!!:D I think we do have to do something to level the playing field if we allow all pre-2000 cars, as there is a lot of difference between a 1999 and a 1984 car; at least if the motor and batteries are crap it levels things out a little! I may even be tempted to bring along the Hornet (complete with standard silver can 540 and VERY CRAP standard suspension) to see how that goes! :D:thumbsup:

Josh, if you get time some quotes from other's experience would be most helpful! I've seen a couple of places, I'll see what I can fish out too :)

Barry

[36racing]

Both quotes from Jimmy, this was for the RC10 control class we had at the oOos Series.

RC10 Classic class
My 'Vision' for this class is one that sees CLOSE racing between equal cars. The classic gold tub is still in plenty of stock and I'm told by CML that parts will NOT be a problem.
It's been mentioned that 21.5 motors might be too slow and 17.5 more appropriate.

Kit springs, kit shocks, standard steering - link to the servo can be of your choice if you want to replace the crap wire link etc.

The only hopups allowed are:
Jconcepts wing buttons, JConcepts wing and nose rods. Jconcepts CF shock towers ONLY if you can prove you're using the kit-standard hole and not one of the optional holes. Jconcepts 1-piece rc10 classic wheels.
Ballrace kit!
Diff balls
Whatever oil/pistons you want

And the best one:
You can keep the ultra competitive stuff for the modern cars - keep the old cars rubbish and enjoy their naff-ness :thumbsup:

All taken from the oOos RC10 Thread,

[Belms]

Both quotes from Jimmy, this was for the RC10 control class we had at the oOos Series........All taken from the oOos RC10 Thread,

I assume that the 21.5 / 17.5 are brushless? What size tracks were they running on? I didn't go to any of the meetings so don't know.. I did see some pictures, so assume they were outdoor, larger than SWIRC track. We need to find something appropriate for the track we have....

I've been playing this evening with the RC10. I have had a Reedy 3300kV brushless with 2s 30/50c LiPos in it, however, a lot of the much older cars don't have a slipper clutch, the RC10 included. The Classic does have an adjustable ball diff (and bear in mind I'm no expert on the ball diff yet); however I have had to have the diff really tight to avoid over slipping with the brushless setup, to the point where the diff doesn't sound too healthy :woot:

I've changed the setup this evening, to NiMH, Tamiya 540RS 23T sport tuned brushed motor and cheap-o MS ESC (£16!), and re-adjusted the diff, and it sounds much happier! :thumbsup::D
It also feels more 'right' to me to have this setup; I'll leave it in and try the car at the track during practice on Thursday to see how it goes. I'm just very aware that if some folks have much older cars with no slipper, they will be stuck with slow crap motors, or risk trashing their transmission to keep up with the 'newer' slipper clutch wielding 'vintage' cars with hot (or even 'not-so-hot') brushless motors.
It'd be interesting to see how a 17T or 21T brushless motor compares to the 23T brushed I have in... Does anyone have a stock brushless in a car they could bring for comparison?

I'm all up for enjoying the 'naff-ness' of these great cars:thumbsup::D
Thoughts please!:confused:

[Belms]

I have also toyed with the idea of putting my old school Acoms 27mhz electronics in the RC10, but the thought of the long aerial and messing with crystals is just a step too far... :lol:

I have found the web site I was thinking of (other than the oOple RC10 class that Josh posted about above) - click through and have a look: http://revival.a1racingclub.com/classic-racing.html

There is too much to cut and paste, however:
I couldn't see a motor limit...
But they are grouping cars by age... Scroll down and look at the cars list for each group...
And they have 'nostalgia points' for those using brushed motors, old school tx/rx, NiMH/NiCd etc..

Mostly appropriate for a big meet with lots of folks, but might be some useful ideas there, for example the RC10 Worlds is two 'age' classes above the classic, as it's transmission etc. is quite different.

Looking forward to getting some classic track time during practice on Thursday (I've got the sticks back to use with the cars too Matt!), and hopefully the wheels and carpet tyres for the Classic will have arrived by then...
Barry

[36racing]

Saw the revival thing posted somewhere,
would we allow the 'stealth' transmission with the new stuff on it? or would we keep it old school and simple?

-Josh

[Belms]

Saw the revival thing posted somewhere,
would we allow the 'stealth' transmission with the new stuff on it? or would we keep it old school and simple?
-Josh

If I recall correctly, the RC10 Worlds (which is vintage/classic re-re), comes with the stealth transmission (Classic doesn't), so it has to be allowed really... But I do think keeping motors and possibly batteries old school is the thing to do.... Discuss! :D the difficulty is trying to keep an even-ish field with 15/20 years worth of 'vintage' cars that people may bring....:woot:

[Belms]

Day off today, so I've been doing some reading... Here is some relevant bits from the vintage off road nationals in the US:
( http://vintageoffroadnationals.com/rules/ )

CLASSES
**All classes are limited to cars produced 1994 and earlier. Contact us for other approvals**

2wd Buggy
27 turn ROAR legal stock and 17.5 brushless motors only (under current rules).
Radio gear “electronics” are open.
Tires/wheels are open
Li-Po batteries are allowed.

Classic
Limited to “non-pro” and entry level cars (Tamiya Hornet, Mauri Ninja, Royal Ripper for example)
All 1/10 Buggies, 2wd or 4wd, 2ws or 4ws allowed
Handout Tamiya RS540 motors only
Radio gear “electronics” are open.
Tires/wheels are open (including narrow front tires)
Li-Po batteries are allowed.

[Rtsbasic]

Saw the revival thing posted somewhere,
would we allow the 'stealth' transmission with the new stuff on it? or would we keep it old school and simple?

-Josh

One thing to keep in mind perhaps is not everyone will choose to run an RC10, so staying in the spirit of the guidelines used for RC10 classic's is a good idea IMO but it can't be too limited to one type of car. There's some really interesting reading here, a lot of it comes down to "staying in the spirit" of running a 20yr old RC :)

I have a 17.5T "stock" brushless motor, but no chassis to fit it to for testing really. Barry your welcome to test it in your RC10 gold pan and see how it goes? could give all of us a bit of a base line for retro performance. Probably a tiny bit slower than the 23T you've got fitted at the moment I'm guessing?

2wd Buggy
27 turn ROAR legal stock and 17.5 brushless motors only (under current rules).
Radio gear “electronics” are open.
Tires/wheels are open
Li-Po batteries are allowed.

That sounds really sensible, without really limiting anyone from picking their favourite "back in the day" chassis :D

From reading what other clubs do, it sounds like limiting the motor is the biggest performance equaliser?

So many things to consider. Matt's gonna have fun with this :D

[MattV6]

Ok it appears that i've missed this bit of the forum and have been looking in the other SWIRC page :eh?:

I'm working at the mo but will be on here when finished :)

What about if we all agree on a year for the Vintage? Say anything released up to 31st December 1995 or something like that? 1st Jan 1998? Something along them lines?

I guess it all depends on how much fun we all want to have and with what budget? If we said anything before 31st December 1999 that would fall into cars made pre 2000 and would open it up a lot more?

The rules you have posted up Barry are really interesting, thats really good to work from :)

[Belms]

What about if we all agree on a year for the Vintage? Say anything released up to 31st December 1995 or something like that? 1st Jan 1998? Something along them lines?
I guess it all depends on how much fun we all want to have and with what budget? If we said anything before 31st December 1999 that would fall into cars made pre 2000 and would open it up a lot more?

One thing to keep in mind perhaps is not everyone will choose to run an RC10, so staying in the spirit of the guidelines used for RC10 classic's is a good idea IMO but it can't be too limited to one type of car. There's some really interesting reading here, a lot of it comes down to "staying in the spirit" of running a 20yr old RC :)

I have a 17.5T "stock" brushless motor, but no chassis to fit it to for testing really. Barry your welcome to test it in your RC10 gold pan and see how it goes? could give all of us a bit of a base line for retro performance. Probably a tiny bit slower than the 23T you've got fitted at the moment I'm guessing?

That sounds really sensible, without really limiting anyone from picking their favourite "back in the day" chassis :D

From reading what other clubs do, it sounds like limiting the motor is the biggest performance equaliser?

So many things to consider. Matt's gonna have fun with this :D

This could very easily turn very complicated! :woot:

I think the fundamental rule, as Richard said, is "staying in the spirit" of running a 20yr old RC :D

We want to keep it as open as possible to begin with, the more Buggies the better! We could always 'massage' the guidelines based on experience at a later date.

My tuppence-worth:

Why not start with...
2wd buggies designed before 2000 (manufactured before 2000, or re-re based on pre-2000 design), motors 'in the vintage spirit!... and leave the rest open :woot::D

If we find folk are turning up with super-fast brushless 1999 models and win every week, maybe that's the time to go with something like:

2wd pre-2000 buggies:
27 turn ROAR legal stock and 17.5 brushless motors only (under current rules).
Radio gear “electronics” are open.
Tires/wheels are open
Li-Po batteries are allowed.

So just limiting the motor. Just my thoughts based on what we've found online, and comments from Josh, Matt and Richard above :D

I've put the 3300kV back in the RC10 and had another play with the diff. From what I've read, the 3300kV falls somewhere in between 13.5t - 17.5t sensored brushless, so probably a bit quick... (though I'm sure my driving will limit me more than the equipment!:woot:lol). I'll bring the 23t brushed along on Thursday too, and maybe try your 17.5t brushless too Richard. Kinda depends if I get my wheels and tyres in time!
Barry

[Rtsbasic]

Looks like we're all thinking pre-2000 as a general consensus then?

I can't see anyone turning up with a 5.5t motor and an ESC with mad timing to run vintage, if they do they've missed the point!! :D

I'll bring the 17.5T along Barry, it would be interesting to see a vintage buggy go with it just so we can see what to expect. Do you have any connectors on your ESC -> motor or just soldered straight to the motor?

I've got an Axial 27T brushed motor that can be used for testing as well - I must admit though, I've only ever ran that and the 17.5T on 3s lipo (rock crawler) so I don't know what to expect! :)

[36racing]

Sweet, should be putting a order in for stuff tomorrow:)

-Josh

[Rtsbasic]

http://s30.postimg.org/524zhh235/2014_04_06_15_04_19.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/j7rbwmyk3/2014_04_06_14_51_53.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/oyt80ge69/2014_04_06_14_52_34.jpg

My RC10 T2 - see if you can spot any original parts :)

Now all we need is a Vintage 1/10 truck class :D

I must put some time into making it race ready and bring it down one night, I bet it would be fun on the track. Home made shock towers (Lexan), hand polished chassis (originally black). Its seen 4s lipo + barn jumps and survived, but not seen an indoor track before.

Josh - your joining the RC10 club then? :)

[MattV6]

Richard that truck is sweet! Fit some buggy tyres to it and get it down to the track haha. Was that released at the same time as the buggy?

This is all getting really exciting! Ive now got about 7 vintage cars im watching on Ebay but some sellers seem to think their completely worn out 20 year old cars are worth more than gold lol. Its proving pretty hard to work out what one to buy :confused:

Have we all agreed on a year to buy up to? It will help me narrow down my search and anyone else looking to buy, ive a few that i'm looking at :). I mean there's no immediate rush we can wait until Thursdays race night to talk a few things over. I'm thinking pre 2000 to keep things a little cheaper BUT 95/96/97/98 could all be considered?

The rules that have been posted from the other events are very interesting. Simple and to the point.

If we just start by deciding on

1. Manufactured before date.
2. Motor limit (anything up to the chosen turn)

[36racing]

Ordering today hopefully (RC10 Classic/Gold Tub).
I would say Designed/First Made Before 2000.
17.5 should be okay, but we will have to do a little bit of testing!

-Josh

['caster master]

Hi, just wanted to offer another different opinion on the rules. I think using Nimh or Nicad batteries just creates more hassle and cost, most people have ditched their old batteries in favour of lipos. The same is true with brushed motors, pretty much everyone now uses brushless and having to purchase new motors and escs just creates yet another financial barrier of which there are already too many in R.C. car racing. The same goes for radios, no one wants to go back to the days of making sure everyone is on different crystals etc. In addition to this tyres should be open.

I think as a rough guideline cars should be pre 2000 but with room for exceptions and flexibility on the day so that if people turn up with something they are allowed to use it - a common sense approach would be needed. I also think 2wd and 4wd should race together as its only for fun and the most important thing is getting a good number of cars in the race. Having lots of rules and regulations will only put people off and create more cost and if anything, will make racing more serious and competitive as people do anything they can to squeeze performance out of outdated electrics etc.

['caster master]

In conclusion I suggest:
Any pre 2000 1:10th scale electric chassis, monster trucks, buggies, 2wd and 4wd etc (with room for flexibility on the day)
Open batteries but no higher than 7.4v (2s lipo)
Open esc
Brushless motors from 10.5t or above or any brushed motor
Open tyres
Open radio gear
While this make not make the racing as "fair" as possible, I think rules along these lines would be the most fun, cheapest for the racer, and lead to a higher number of people racing in the class, which is the most important thing.
Thanks, Jon.

[Belms]

In conclusion I suggest:
Any pre 2000 1:10th scale electric chassis, monster trucks, buggies, 2wd and 4wd etc (with room for flexibility on the day)
Open batteries but no higher than 7.4v (2s lipo)
Open esc
Brushless motors from 10.5t or above or any brushed motor
Open tyres
Open radio gear
While this make not make the racing as "fair" as possible, I think rules along these lines would be the most fun, cheapest for the racer, and lead to a higher number of people racing in the class, which is the most important thing.
Thanks, Jon.

I agree - it is a fun class, and making it accessible and open to the widest number of racers should be the most important thing, as well as flexibility on the night. As I noted above, I think we only need to introduce a motor limit if we find we get problems... (Have to say I'm not terribly keen on having to buy a 17.5 and ESC combo if I don't have to right now... Tho will probably get them down the line :D)

Hadn't thought about other pre-2000 classes, but I wouldn't have a problem racing my RC10 against 4wd's (back in the day 2wds were all in with 4wd anyway...), and might be interesting to have some monster trucks in there too! Richards e-firestorm went really well around the track last week, and didn't cause any problems space-wise, so should be fine (there's gotta be loads of lunchboxes out there, but a Clod-buster on the track might prove interesting!).
I guess it could be open to 1/12 vintage off-road too (e.g. Lunchbox).

I've got the tyres now; just hoping the RC10 wheels to fit them turn up tomorrow... :bored:

Let's chat more tomorrow eve when there is a free 5 mins!

Matt, have you thought about a basic web site to put all this kind of info on?
FB page is great for announcements, but not too good for static info...

[Belms]

Ordering today hopefully (RC10 Classic/Gold Tub).
I would say Designed/First Made Before 2000.
17.5 should be okay, but we will have to do a little bit of testing!

-Josh

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing that on the track soon!! :D:thumbsup::cool::drool:

[Belms]

Hi, just wanted to offer another different opinion on the rules. I think using Nimh or Nicad batteries just creates more hassle and cost, most people have ditched their old batteries in favour of lipos. The same is true with brushed motors, pretty much everyone now uses brushless and having to purchase new motors and escs just creates yet another financial barrier of which there are already too many in R.C. car racing. The same goes for radios, no one wants to go back to the days of making sure everyone is on different crystals etc. In addition to this tyres should be open.

I think as a rough guideline cars should be pre 2000 but with room for exceptions and flexibility on the day so that if people turn up with something they are allowed to use it - a common sense approach would be needed. I also think 2wd and 4wd should race together as its only for fun and the most important thing is getting a good number of cars in the race. Having lots of rules and regulations will only put people off and create more cost and if anything, will make racing more serious and competitive as people do anything they can to squeeze performance out of outdated electrics etc.

I still have NIMH for the kids trucks (they are on brushed too), however I can see it being an unneeded expense if you chucked them in favour of LiPos, but limit to 2S is a good idea (as you said in your other post). I also have an old 27mhz acoms set, but the thought of having to mess with crystals and dodge 4' aerials puts me right off! As does having to mess around cleaning brushes and trim coms... I'm happy with 2s lipo, 2.4ghz and brushless if everyone else is... Just we may have to think about a motor limit if folks arrive with super-hot setups (though they would be mad to in a 20-year old car!!:woot:)
Open tyres also fine with me, however we should recommend carpet tyres, as old school hard spikes are hopeless (take my word for that!) :lol:

I think keep it simple, be flexible, minimise the 'guidelines' and keep it fun! :D:thumbsup:

[36racing]

Completely agree with everything said, would be good to see you and your dad with yours if you still have them Jon:)

-Josh

[Rtsbasic]

Sounds good to me! Modern convenience, old school fun :)

I'll bring the RC10 T2 down maybe next week for some fun, if i can find the time to get it ready.

Now the decision for me is, RC10 worlds or RC10 B3? I've got mountains of parts suitable for both left from when I used to run them previously..

[36racing]

Are you buying one or do you already have one? I myself has just ordered a RC10 Classic for 189 from JE. Cheapest RC10 Classic I have seen new.
But if you want the obvious bit more, I would say RC10 Worlds.

-Josh

['caster master]

Glad that you liked the suggestions! We are on holiday at the moment Josh and we get back on Thursday the 21st but unfortunately not in time for racing. We can probably make the meeting on the next Thursday. Dad will definitely bring one of his old Tamiyas and I might bring one, only thing is mine is slightly modified... Its the rear end of a Tamiya manta Ray and the front of a Desert Gator to make a mid motor 2wd (not sure if this would be classed as vintage) We did this before most of the big companies did! If this doesn't count as vintage I could borrow dad's fighter buggy:lol:. I am enjoying the holiday and am doing plenty of cycling but at the same time can't wait to get racing again!

[36racing]

Yeah the car should be fine, wont have my rc10 finished but Barry will have his. Don't know on others. (I still need to get some electrics.

-Josh

[Belms]

Sounds good to me! Modern convenience, old school fun :)

I'll bring the RC10 T2 down maybe next week for some fun, if i can find the time to get it ready.

Now the decision for me is, RC10 worlds or RC10 B3? I've got mountains of parts suitable for both left from when I used to run them previously..

This is entirely my opinion of course, but I'd say Worlds, mainly because it's 'more vintage' than the B3; however, do I remember you used to have a B3? I guess for you the B3 would carry extra personal nostalgia points.... But, you could always get a Classic gold tub like Josh and I!!:D:D:thumbsup::drool:
Barry

[Belms]

Glad that you liked the suggestions! We are on holiday at the moment Josh and we get back on Thursday the 21st but unfortunately not in time for racing. We can probably make the meeting on the next Thursday. Dad will definitely bring one of his old Tamiyas and I might bring one, only thing is mine is slightly modified... Its the rear end of a Tamiya manta Ray and the front of a Desert Gator to make a mid motor 2wd (not sure if this would be classed as vintage) We did this before most of the big companies did! If this doesn't count as vintage I could borrow dad's fighter buggy:lol:. I am enjoying the holiday and am doing plenty of cycling but at the same time can't wait to get racing again!
Do bring the modded Tamiya, I'm interested to see it! :D If there's other Tamiyas along, I may bring the Hornet one week:thumbsup:

[Belms]

Are you buying one or do you already have one? I myself has just ordered a RC10 Classic for 189 from JE. Cheapest RC10 Classic I have seen new.
But if you want the obvious bit more, I would say RC10 Worlds.

-Josh

Great to hear it's ordered! :thumbsup:
It's a lovely car to build, enjoy it! :D

You just need to think about electrics now. Any idea what servo you will use? I've got a cheap-o MS one in it at the moment, I want to get something better (with a little more torque to bring the wheels back to neutral better), but have no idea what to get... Servos seem to have moved on in the last 20 years, my info is a little out of date :o lol

Also, are you going to put a 17.5t straight in at the outset? Certainly would be interesting to se how the stock motors perform on the track :)

[Belms]

Yay!:D Carpet tyres are on the new 'old school' 5 spoke RC10 wheels, and on the car! :thumbsup:
Just gotta glue them, and it's ready to rock this evening:D:thumbsup:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14728758329_0b006b559e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/orwJH8)
RC10 with old school 5 spoke wheels and new Pro-Line carpet tyres (https://flic.kr/p/orwJH8)

[Rtsbasic]

Yay!:D Carpet tyres are on the new 'old school' 5 spoke RC10 wheels, and on the car! :thumbsup:
Just gotta glue them, and it's ready to rock this evening:D:thumbsup:

RC10 with old school 5 spoke wheels and new Pro-Line carpet tyres[/url]


Looks ready for the track!! Will be interesting to see how it fares tonight :)

I don't have any vintage era chassis's at all at the moment, but I have ran RC10, RC10B2 & RC10B3 all before so still have lots of parts left over from way back. I'm a bit of a hoarder :D

I'm leaning towards the B3, just for the memories it brings back thinking about it. My old RC10 wasn't a gold pan, it had a full-on RPM chassis conversion, so pretty different.

Still drooling over the Worlds RC10 :cool: The thought just won't go away..

[rcmonkee]

I found this in the cupboard to compliment my vintage RC....

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p791/plymouthrc/IMAG5045_zpsbiogmye5.jpg (http://s1351.photobucket.com/user/plymouthrc/media/IMAG5045_zpsbiogmye5.jpg.html)

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p791/plymouthrc/IMAG4964_zps0qifahlv.jpg (http://s1351.photobucket.com/user/plymouthrc/media/IMAG4964_zps0qifahlv.jpg.html)

Doubt its ability to keep up with the RC10's but its definately vintage! Found the battery tray too. Just need some electrics and shocks. Would anyone have any suitable shocks?

[Belms]

I found this in the cupboard to compliment my vintage RC....

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p791/plymouthrc/IMAG5045_zpsbiogmye5.jpg (http://s1351.photobucket.com/user/plymouthrc/media/IMAG5045_zpsbiogmye5.jpg.html)

http://i1351.photobucket.com/albums/p791/plymouthrc/IMAG4964_zps0qifahlv.jpg (http://s1351.photobucket.com/user/plymouthrc/media/IMAG4964_zps0qifahlv.jpg.html)

Doubt its ability to keep up with the RC10's but its definately vintage! Found the battery tray too. Just need some electrics and shocks. Would anyone have any suitable shocks?

I don't have any suitable shocks :( but what is it? Looks cool :cool:
TBH it's not my car that's going to slow me down.... I sure my driving will even up the advantage I may have with the car! :woot:

[36racing]

It arrived :D

-Josh

[Belms]

It arrived :D

-Josh

Awesome! :D
Keep us updated on the build progress :thumbsup:

[Rtsbasic]

My entry to the vintage class this week, if time permits it to run..

http://s29.postimg.org/68pm4rfp3/2014_08_26_16_30_04_1.jpg

Should be interesting :D Its an RC10 T2 (originally released 1995), rocking a 17.5T motor, and 45A ESC, so pretty in-keeping with other vintage cars :)

[Belms]

Here are the vintage guidelines we're thinking about, let me know what you think:
(It's mainly Johns suggestion)

Pre-2000 designed or built 1/10 buggy
Open radio
Open tyres
NiMH batteries
Brushed motor, 19t+ no timing

I think that covers it... Although you could say the above is to get championship points, but you can 'run what you brung' for new folks, they just don't get points unless they have the right kit.
Sounds good to me :) views appreciated

[36racing]

Sounds great,
Would allow people to be able to get gear pretty cheaply like I intend on doing myself. Under £50 for your electronics, you dont see that in modern tenth scale racing :p