B-Max Build Tips

[MHeadling]

Hi Guys, Thought I would I would start a thread on build tips for the B-Max,

I have nearly built my car (with hex screws), Just shocks to do and its done.

This is what I tips I have come up with so far:

Diffs:

- Add extra grease to the diff balls and thrust race, I always use Associated Black Grease on the Thrust Race and Stealth Diff lube on the diff balls (my own personal favourites)

Shock Towers:

-Drill shock tower holes to 3mm, this allows the M3 bolt to be moved position easily as it moves freely in hole.

Drive Shafts:

- I took my ones apart and re thread locked them for peace of mind, but they were done very well in the factory.

Crown Wheel/Pinion:

-I have Built these as per kit shims, they were a little tight on the gear mesh but I added a small amount of Associated Black grease to the gears and ran the gear box for 10 mins and its nice and free and has a good tight gear mesh!


Thats about all I have found so far.. Please feel free to add your own build tips.

[DaveG28]

I didn't touch my driveshafts or diffs, and have to say the diffs are also set well at the factory, they seem to be the right tightness as preset. However having not touched them, the rear one is getting grindy quickly, so for people comfortable with building diffs well I'd agree and sugest rebuilding them with good grease.

I used Tamiya Ceramic Grease on the gears, and actually set them to the looser position with the shims. For some reason I view them like belts and am happy to change them periodically, so I set them loose and err on the side of them chewing up rather than running tight!!

My only actual negative on it is the motor mount, it may just be me but I find it a nightmare tog et the damn motor pinion mesh right!!

Does anyone else really like the rod ends by the way, they are so much easier to put on straight than other cars I've used (eg threading onto the turnbuckle)??

[scottk]

Hey Mark,
Is there a list of screws sizes in the manual so i no what to order when changing to hex head?
cheers
Scott

[MHeadling]

Yes all the screw sizes are in the manual so it's very easy to make up a hex head kit for the car.

Have a look in the general section of this forum for M3 screw suppliers and order a set up!

[MHeadling]

Got another hot tip!

My rear wish bones had alot of slop front to back, so to cure this I have put a 1.5mm Jet Racing blue shim on the hinge pin, put the rear toe in block back on and job done!

You can use any 3mm washer but the Jet Racing Blue ones look cool! you can buy them from Muchmore and DMS etc.

[DaveG28]

Guys,

What size are the diff balls in the Bmax? Haven't got the manual to hand and my drivetrain went to s**t in todays final (tight spot somewhere at the front!?) so figure it's time to strip it down and give it some tlc!!

[sosidge]

3/32" I believe.

[MHeadling]

Got another tip, on the front camber link the ball stud that goes into the hub, I pulled them out of the hub at the petit, iv put in HotBodies ball studs part no 61582 or tc ones with hex head part no 67736, these are longer and stop ball stud pulling out of hub!

[traffman]

When i built mine i never changed anything , however the slipper plate was biatch to have sit properly in its place so i trimmed a wee bit off the plate.

Another thing ive set the car as per the instructions but the front wheels look like theres a fair whack of camber (negative) on them.:eh?:

[MHeadling]

Are the diff balls definatley 3/32"?? I may try some edit ceramic ones in my car

[MHeadling]

My cars famous, well a little bit! pic of it on the Petit rc with the X6 in the back ground.

http://www.petitrc.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=5542&c=119

[traffman]

My cars famous, well a little bit! pic of it on the Petit rc with the X6 in the back ground.

http://www.petitrc.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=5542&c=119


What screws are you using in the car , stainless?

[MHeadling]

You got it!! Yes all stainless, I bought a load of them from an on line shop, if you put in m3 stainless screws into google there are lots of suppliers, I think the name was stagonset or something like that.

They make the car easier to work on and they look good!

[Buggy Driver]

What red is the body painted with? It´s nicely bright.

[speedworm]

You can also get the Yokomo Titanium screw kit. Very light in compare to kit's one. Ref is BM-ASST
http://www.rcmxstore.com/images/bm-asst.jpg

[traffman]

This isnt as much a build tip as an ongoing excercise into improving and tweaking the Bmax.
All in all its a brilliant car and im very happy with it!
As you can see ive replaced the standard pozi drive screws with Losi 3 x 25 MM shoulder capscrews .
The reason behind this is that i find that as the shock screws protrude a fair bit from the shock mount. Ive found that ive bent these screws on numerous ocassions and this make an ideal replacement .
£2.25 from MK racing or many other shops.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h164/traffman/bmax001.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h164/traffman/bmax002.jpg

[Spencer Mulcahy]

All your worries will be over regarding screws for the car as Mr North off of NORTECH is sorting a screw kit as we speak and it will be top quality and sensibly priced I am sure.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[sosidge]

If you ask me (which you haven't), the problem is not the screw, it's the exposed thread at the end. This catches the track and bends the screws.

Cut the screw down 2mm, or put a 2mm spacer on before fitting the nut. That way the smooth edge of the nut hits the track first, and the car slides.

I just don't understand why more cars don't use the B44 style front shock tower. The only reason must be to sell more spare towers and mounting screws!

This isnt as much a build tip as an ongoing excercise into improving and tweaking the Bmax.
All in all its a brilliant car and im very happy with it!
As you can see ive replaced the standard pozi drive screws with Losi 3 x 25 MM shoulder capscrews .
The reason behind this is that i find that as the shock screws protrude a fair bit from the shock mount. Ive found that ive bent these screws on numerous ocassions and this make an ideal replacement .
£2.25 from MK racing or many other shops.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h164/traffman/bmax001.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h164/traffman/bmax002.jpg

[traffman]

Its really to keep you going if you bend a few screws , i wanted a quick fix and this was the best route.
If you start to cut down steel screws youve got to overcome the uneven thread thats left after you cut the screw , which in some cases can strip a nut when you tighten it on.

[sosidge]

If you start to cut down steel screws youve got to overcome the uneven thread thats left after you cut the screw , which in some cases can strip a nut when you tighten it on.

Use a file to take the rough edges off.

Yokomo do a pack of the screws as a spare, 4 screws complete with the nuts, BM-017M, £2.92.

How did you deal with the shoulder on the Losi screws? Did you drill the shock tower?

[bigred5765]

or have the screw threads facing inwards, behind the shock tower,

[budgio]

The Tamiya TRF Aeration shocks front and rear seem to fit ok.
Will test them out at Coventry on my next visit.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/DSC_0098.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/DSC_0097.jpg

[traffman]

Use a file to take the rough edges off.

Yokomo do a pack of the screws as a spare, 4 screws complete with the nuts, BM-017M, £2.92.

How did you deal with the shoulder on the Losi screws? Did you drill the shock tower?

Nope , screws right in , the shoulder part is hidden .

[MHeadling]

I just put a plain non nyloc nut just in front of the bolt head behind the tower, then build it up as normal and you don't have any exposed thread to dig in, or you could cut the bolt down and file it smooth

[sosidge]

I just put a plain non nyloc nut just in front of the bolt head behind the tower, then build it up as normal and you don't have any exposed thread to dig in

Good solution.