My DB1.2 set up help

[lee.willows]

Gents,

Ran my shorty converted DB1.2( my name for car). And the car was awesome, but i was loading a bit of on power steering and also mid corner. Can anyone help?

My car set up is,

Front
Rb5 front end. Outside hole on c hubs middle inboard end. 2mm infront of c hub, 1 mm under steering block, 1 mm of spacer under hinge pin block, 30 deg on block. Middle on tower, outer on wishbones. 5 gram in bulkhead, shocks are 3c light yell springs, 27.5 wt ae oil. Ride height 18 mm

Rear
mid wheel base, b in f out,3 pip under rf hinge pin block. Outer position on b type hubs, outer in board, wing low, shocks 3c orange springs 32.5 wt ae oil. 1 mm under camber link inboard 2 mm outer end. Rid height 18 mm

20 gram spine weight.

I think that is it, was thinking of trying a rear roll bar? Was racing on low to med traction track. On yellow mini spikes all round.

Any help you can give is appreciated

Cheers

Lee

[lee.willows]

Gents,

Ran car at Worksop and it was not very good. It was very loose coming on power, lack of mid corner and finally no turn in off power.

I am at a lose, set up is as above, no variations at all.

Can someone help me with some advise

Cheers
Lee

[fletcher]

I'm not a kyosho drive but a few bits on the setup scream wrong at me, for one, switch the oils, if its dumping the nose part of the issue is your front oils are softer than the rear, as its mid motor, maybe even try 32 1\2 all round. Also take the weight out the nose, there a couple of things then I'm sure the kyosho guys can help with the rest

[lee.willows]

Cheers mate will change oils and ditch the front weight also. And try again

[discothesnake]

Hi mate, I built a Yokomo car similar to what you have. I gave mine a try at Worksop and was useless. I'm pretty sure you will struggle to get a front motor 2wd to work on that surface.

On high grip I'd imagine it would be awesome.

[Mr Eccleston]

I would try the following:

1mm spacer on top of front hinge pin holder,
Silver front springs,
32.5 front oil

Rear 27.5 oil
remove outer 2mm spacer

What spacers are you using on front camber link?

[Dazzieboy]

I would echo what has been said about the oils, I would swap them front to back so that the back is softer damped than the front. I also read somewhere about a magic figure for weight distribution front to rear on a 2wd buggy but cant find the link. It was something nearer to 40:60 so you may want to try removing some weight from the front.

[lee.willows]

Front has 3mm in board on middle hole and outboard is on outer hole.

Hope that helps?

I do appreciate may be wrong car but sure it can be made to work.

weight is split 40/60 front to rear and 50/50 side to side

cheers for help so far

[RogerM]

Car is most likely rolling too fast at the front so all the weight transfer is being lost in roll rather than pressing the tires into the ground. Seen this sort of thing many time and people go softer and softer in the belief that soft = more grip and it gets worse and worse.
Opposite to why some people will soften the roll stiffness in high grip conditions to get more weight transfer lost in body roll and reduce the chance of tire loading induced grip roll.

Stiffer oil, maybe increase spring too, raise front ride height.
Get it to the point where you are under-steering equally all through the corner from entry to exit then add a little weight towards the CENTRE of the car (I found between servo and slipper mount to be the best place to move the weight distribution forwards to get it back to where you need it to bring the steering back. Don't reduce mass from the rear else you'll be in spin city.

If you then find the car struggles to hold it's line late in the corner and darts in reduce the length of the front link starting at the outside end first.

As a rule of thumb on Kyosho small bores and a 2wd car if your far from 500cst / 350cst oil (±50cst depending on track surface grip level) Fr/Rr on 3b pistons with a silver front and yellow rear spring you are really wrong on either weight distribution or roll centres.

Ultimately on slick surfaces you'll be looking for an RB6 as it has more front end and generates loads of grip in the rear too :)

[charlesk]

Although no doubt you can improve your current setup (lack of front end shouldn't be an issue), the type of car (shaft driven motor forward) will not imo be the best for Worksop.
Just have a look at what the TeamC boys use out of choice there, it's not the TM2. Traction under power on slippy bits isn't the cars strength and you'll probably notice some torque steer under power esp as it slips.
You should be able to make it Ok, but it'll never be perfect.
If you have a conventional mid motor, then that will suit the conditions far better.
High grip surfaces will be the strenght of the DB.

[lee.willows]

Gents,

Many thanks for the pointers and help. I do realise that this isn't the right car for the surface, but i so enjoy driving the car, i just want to improve it so i can get along ok.

If i could afford another car that is more suited to surface i would get one.

I am going to keep trying though.

[tomtom]

Best thing you can do if you like the car would be to switch the motor to the left side. Such a car with motor on the right side will spin out way easier.
Been there, done that, night and day difference.

In the meantime try to gain rear traction as much as possible on low grip, longer links, shorter wheelbase, a nice smooth carbide diff quite loose, slipper slipping before the diff but not much. You could work on rear toe (go to 3.5 or 4, I even run 5 on an Xray XB4 2wd) and remove some antisquat (try to run with no shims under the FR. block)
On wet astro I was running 20wt oil on the rear with black springs (smallbore) or even Bigbores.
Try a full gurney wing, whatever you could to help traction.