Cyber 10B [Archive] - oOple.com Forums

pgeldz

07-02-2009, 11:10 PM

Please, please , please tell me when this will be released and in stock in the US.

I've been waiting forever for a good shaft driven buggy that DOES NOT USE a side by side saddle-pack battery layout.

The only one that even comes to mind is the Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 SP, which I hear is going to be discontinued in favor of theri new FS version - which uses, you guessed it, a side by side saddle-pack battery layout.

Other than that, there's the Tamiya DF-03 which I have currently (won the MS version in a raffle). It's ok, but it's no where near stock, and I coudl have bought 3 Cyber 10B's probably for what I've payed in hop up for the DF03.

The Cyber 10 looks like everything I want in a 4wd EP buggy. Looks like the only things I'd want straight away are a slipper clutch, and some aluminum suspension blocks, bigger bumpers for a little more durability, which hopefully will fit from the D4.

Will option parts be available when the kit is released?

Also, and more importantly, does anyone know how much the Cyber 10B will sell for?

I am so looking forward to getting this kit!

Please let me know...

:)

- Paulie

revsinc

09-03-2009, 09:46 AM

Looks like they are avaliable now , :p

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?products_id=16567

outtafocus

21-03-2009, 04:56 PM

I just found a pic from Travis Amezcua's painter, post #315 first pic, middle body.
Im pretty sure that is a Cyber10b body.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/painting-designs-graphics-photography/221701-kustomrcgraphics-com-11.html

Scouser

21-03-2009, 05:11 PM

The side pods and vents plus the roof scoop look like a stock D4 shell to me dude. I could be wrong though, it has happened before!:D

jimmy

21-03-2009, 05:21 PM

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk67/kustomrcgraphics/march013.jpg

D4, Cyber10B, RB5?

quincey

21-03-2009, 06:31 PM

im looking at the motor mount hoping it might fit the d4 as the std d4 is a pain to get motors in and out.

Spoolio

21-03-2009, 08:53 PM

Has it got a slipper?

BloodClod

24-03-2009, 05:03 AM

Hey guys, thought I'd share a few pics of the Cyber10B that I finished and ran over the weekend.

http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_03.jpg
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_04.jpg
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_05.jpg
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_06.jpg

Off body pics...
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_01.jpg
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/cyber10/cyber10_02.jpg

Spoolio - no, it doesn't come with a slipper. The manual lists a Cyber10B specific slipper that I believe will come with orange anodized bits. However, that doesn't seem available yet so I've fit a D4 slipper in there.

Spoolio

24-03-2009, 07:18 AM

What does it drive like, how did you get on?

BloodClod

24-03-2009, 08:23 AM

It drove very nicely. Accelerated well and tracked straight. Felt confident through the corners. Surface where we ran was quite bumpy but the suspension held it's own. The plastic shocks may not be as sweet as aluminum ones, but they do their job respectably. The car was generally able to keep up with a pack of cars which included the ZX5-SP and B44.

The wing mount is a little floppy which shouldn't be difficult to remedy... but those using box-shaped lipos should take care to space the battery far forward enough as it runs very close to the rear drive cup. Lipo battery fitment is a bit of a chore because it doesn't "hold down" different sized lipos easily. I ended up using a bit of sponge to fit slightly smaller lipo casings but because it's a side-loading battery compartment it's not that easy to do (as opposed to top-loading). I suppose some sort of thumb screw setup might allow more flexibility.

andy reeves

24-03-2009, 08:37 AM

BloodClod

24-03-2009, 09:20 AM

BloodClod looking very nice. Where were you racing it at the weekend? IMO the car has real potential, agree with the lipo fitment if you have different size lipos you might need to make some spacers to take away the play but once set then the car looks really good :thumbsup:

I'm over at sunny Singapore and since there aren't official 1/10 buggy races currently we have our own informal races among friends on the weekends. IMO the car falls into the same class as the DB01:
- sealed drivetrain that should mean more runs between rebuilds
- suspension with competition level DNA which means a great base to start with
- mid-level buggies which allow buyers to get a capable buggy without paying big bucks upfront for a top-class buggy. Add options as skills / budgets allow.
- those looking to buy these and hop them up from the start will find that they aren't that "budget" any more and can easily cost more than a top-end buggy.

I love my DB01 and it's been an amazing buggy. The Cyber10 may be more costly than the DB01 but IMO it actually requires less to get it ready to race. In my book the DB01 needs a slipper, front universals and a set of proper shocks... but the Cyber seems to do well with just the addition of the slipper.

discostu

24-03-2009, 06:09 PM

will the gearbox tops fit the d4 with no mods

Scouser

24-03-2009, 08:55 PM

Interested to see what the compatibility with the D4 is aswell. Wishbones, cvd's, slipper clutch etc.

BloodClod

25-03-2009, 12:58 PM

will the gearbox tops fit the d4 with no mods

I don't have a D4 but I'm doubtful they will as the transmission on the Cyber is different. To accomodate the battery placement the center spur/slipper assembly is raised and the rear gearbox output is angled upwards as well.

Interested to see what the compatibility with the D4 is aswell. Wishbones, cvd's, slipper clutch etc.

Well... according to HPI's site : CVDs, Slipper, One-way... I believe the wishbones will fit too.

The stock spur on the Cyber is 84T though and I don't think the D4 has a spur that big. The D4 slipper I bought came with an 80T spur which was actually better for my gearing.

Scouser

25-03-2009, 01:08 PM

Yup, looks like there are a ton of parts from the D4 that will work. Cheers for that dude, I hadn't noticed they had updated the HPI site.:blush:

Spoolio

01-04-2009, 06:12 AM

Anybody with inside knowledge know when we'll be getting them in the UK?

rowanp25

01-04-2009, 09:06 AM

mirage have them listed on their site so should be available. rrp 199
lil more than i expected but things are getting expensive at the mo

streetfreak

02-04-2009, 11:16 PM

anyone know upgradeds will be to get like shocks i am thinkin about fitting some old b44 shocks on it my friend has,should i worry about a new slipper clutch since it is without one?Can i damage anything without using a slipper????knida of a newbiw to4wd rc10 gold pan was my last runner.:p

Spoolio

03-04-2009, 05:26 PM

If what we've read so far is to be believed it won't necessarily need alloy shocks. Don't know if the CML team did the York 24 hours on plastic shocks or D4 ones but that might be a good indicator. Would have thought a slipper would be essential if you intend to use a motor with some grunt. Suspect they didn't include one for cost reasons and maybe because the target market is more slanted towards bashers rather than out and out racers in which case not having a slipper isn't such an issue.

discostu

03-04-2009, 06:18 PM

Id be worried if the cml team used a hpi hb mirage and yes they did use d4 shocks i think the car is a little over priced £25 £30 cheaper it would have been worth it take a look at yokomo champ pack for £250 you get shocks full roll bar kit slipper cluch. to upgrade the 10b you woud need to spend shocks £40 front kit £41 rear kit £45 slipper set kit £8 for sway bar set to bring up to the same spec as the b max total of £199 for car plus £134 for upgrades a wopping £333 or a d4 wce for £349. tough choices. dont get me wrong for a bog standard begginers kit its pretty good but for competion there is not much point.

stu

discostu

03-04-2009, 08:47 PM

i just checked the winning cyber 10b of the 24 hr had all three upgrades.

streetfreak

03-04-2009, 11:01 PM

Its still not a bad car to tinker with a few extra parts when u got the spare and u can turn it into a racer.Im not a carbon fiber nut so some aluminum bling will suit mee.Anyways I Hate Saddle,Hope this thing can jump my pond.lol:thumbsup:

andy reeves

09-04-2009, 07:18 AM

Looks like the car is now in stock at Mirage :thumbsup:

streetfreak

09-04-2009, 07:25 AM

just came in mail today.

Adam Skelding

09-04-2009, 07:30 AM

just came in mail from towers today started to build got 1/2 way and the spur gear holders,the:mad: cover all dont fit poor craftmenship,not sure if its the chassis mold or what but the servo wholes are off,no springs,shock oill was slit oils all over ,yeah a disaster hpi sucks

Hi Streetfreak.
When you say it just came in the mail from Towers do you mean 'Tower Hobbies'? If so, why have you bought from Tower?
Having built one up myself recently, I'm not sure what the issues you are having are (apart from the missing parts).
Was the box factory sealed?

chb

09-04-2009, 02:11 PM

Looks like the car is now in stock at Mirage :thumbsup:

Who is Mirage (did a search on google but too many results...

savageracer1

09-04-2009, 02:16 PM

mirage are the UK distributor for hotbodies and hpi web site: :thumbsup:http://www.mirageracing.com/

streetfreak

10-04-2009, 01:35 AM

Chris Green

10-04-2009, 08:13 AM

EEE I did manage to get the buil Done... the spur gear cover that holds the spur and the bearings in place well it was rough not a perfect fit maybe i should buy the aluminum part,good lookin buggy solid other then the 1 issue,although I am not confident,maybe need the slipper tooo????:confused:

Wow, you're opinion changed over the course of 1 day?

I'm guessing you're from the States, hence why you bought from Tower Hobbies?

andy reeves

12-04-2009, 08:52 PM

Had my first run with the car today. Got to say I was more than imprssed with the car. I seemed to find that the car flys flatter and more consistant that I have expirenced over the Jumps at Coventry before. I also tested the cars strength and it passed with flying colours :thumbsup:

thom.p

12-04-2009, 09:01 PM

andy reeves

13-04-2009, 09:29 AM

I ran the D4 for the whole of last season and most of the winter just gone. Comparing the first runs of both cars I would say I prefer the Cyber. To me it seams to be that bit more forgiving. Will be running it at our first regional next weekend, which will be a good test of the car as we have a lot of good drivrs in our region.

streetfreak

19-04-2009, 05:28 PM

6347 ;) rpm ends AE Shocks still needs a motor.Also looking for a D4 slipper unit if anyone has a spare.

streetfreak

19-04-2009, 05:59 PM

More pics of my New Cyber10b By HPI .For those interested in Buying this is a Quality 4wd Buggy.

andy reeves

19-04-2009, 08:59 PM

Well I ran the car at the mid west regional today. Got to say that I am really impressed with the car. It seams a lot more predictable than I was expecting. Also weighed it and it came in at 1690 with a nosram lipo. People were also commenting on how good the car was looking. Managed to make the B final with it which is the highest I have finished at a regional.

Jamie B4

30-04-2009, 11:42 AM

Had a look at Andy's car this weekend gone got to car looks very good

leinad

30-04-2009, 04:22 PM

Just got me a Cyber 10B this evening... can't wait to start building her up :D

streetfreak

30-04-2009, 06:37 PM

Car runs Great ,1 problem the right Rear Dogbone kept flying out,after 3rd run i lost it,D4 rear universals are on there way from hobby shop.Surely the first upgrade needed ran great otherwise.

scrawl

01-05-2009, 02:13 PM

A question for the early adopters: How fragile are the shock towers?

The Cyber 10B looks almost perfect for me (2wd driver wanting to get into 4wd without investing in saddle packs). Just a little concerned the shock towers will break every time the car lands upside down.

vinny20

01-05-2009, 02:33 PM

i should be getting mine next :thumbsup: week some time the car is perfect for what it is i would have thought the shock towers are fine also depends on what motor your running 6.5 should calm it down

super__dan

01-05-2009, 03:12 PM

Adam - Any idea on the weight distribution on one of these? It looks quite far back, now I'm not saying that's a bad thing, just wondering.

Adam Skelding

01-05-2009, 09:02 PM

I'll put it on the scales tomorrow.
Ran it back to back with the D4 last weekend.

Lap times were very similar on a track that had seen times gradually slow.

I ran the D4 at 1600g exactly. The Cyber was at 1640g (Heavier LiPo) was the only difference.

leinad

02-05-2009, 02:15 PM

Just got me a Cyber 10B this evening... can't wait to start building her up :D

Managed to build up the internal (except for motor, ESC, servo, batts, etc). Am hoping for recommendations from the experts on what to get for an extreme noob like myself :blush:

Adam Skelding

02-05-2009, 07:13 PM

Adam - Any idea on the weight distribution on one of these? It looks quite far back, now I'm not saying that's a bad thing, just wondering.

Ok Dan.
Here's the data:
Cyber 10B (TP4950 Lipo)
Overall Mass : 1667g
Front: 761g (45.7%)
Rear: 906g (54.3%)
Left: 883g
Right:884g

HB D4 WCE (TP3200 Saddle Lipo)
With 95g between cells and 15g next to each battery post: (125g Total)
Overall Mass: 1600g
Front: 729g (45.6%)
Rear: 871g (54.4%)
Left: 800g
Right: 800g

About as close as you could get %age wise across the 2 cars. Although I guess with similar LiPo, the Cyber would be a tad more nose heavy.

telboy

02-05-2009, 08:17 PM

I'll be running TP3200 LiPo in mine, so I guess we'll see how it goes. :)

super__dan

03-05-2009, 07:40 AM

Coolio, interesting stuff. Funny stuff this Lipo, I had assumed the stick pack in the X5 had moved our dist back, but when calced it hadn't at all.

Cheers dude.

leinad

03-05-2009, 09:22 AM

Just curious... are all parts (Standard and Option) for the Brama and Cyclone D4 usable on the Cyber 10B?

telboy

03-05-2009, 03:12 PM

As far as I am aware, the Cyber and the Brama are totally different chassis, and so would think that there are no transferable parts.

The Cyber and the D4 do share a lot of transmission and suspension parts though.:)

leinad

03-05-2009, 03:43 PM

...

The Cyber and the D4 do share a lot of transmission and suspension parts though.:)
Thank you so much for your reply. Am learning along the way, so i hope you all bear with the silly questions :blush:

Gonna get me a remote, motor, servo, esc, batts and charger tomorrow afternoon... any recommendation from the experts?

super__dan

03-05-2009, 06:41 PM

I have to admit, Adams looked great at Batley today.

Adam Skelding

03-05-2009, 09:30 PM

Thank you so much for your reply. Am learning along the way, so i hope you all bear with the silly questions :blush:

Gonna get me a remote, motor, servo, esc, batts and charger tomorrow afternoon... any recommendation from the experts?

All depends on budget really.
Trakpower do really good LiPo packs and 'simples' to operate LiPo charger. They also don't break the bank.
I use the 4900 TP LiPo. But even the 3200 will be plenty for you.

Motor: Depending on abilty, I'd go for a 7.5T. If you a novice then maybe something even milder, like 10.5T or 8.5T.

Servo's and radio's again are hugely budget dependant. There will be plenty on the oOple 'For Sale' section. Indeed, I have a very good KO servo up for grabs for £40.
Radio: Best bit of advice, is try other peoples, see how they fit in your hands, if it isn't comfy, it isn't right. Not all radios fit everyone's hands.

The Cyber did feel really good today. The D4 didn't get a look in, some damn truck killed it :p and it sat on the table sulking after that! :thumbsup:

super__dan

04-05-2009, 07:38 AM

The D4 didn't get a look in, some damn truck killed it :p and it sat on the table sulking after that! :thumbsup:

Technically that was Lawsons fault, though I'm not sure how :blush:

Adam Skelding

04-05-2009, 10:16 PM

Technically that was Lawsons fault, though I'm not sure how :blush:

No Matter.
I thought the fatal 'click' came from the truck, until I saw the impromptu laydown suspension I had.

Ne-mind.

leinad

05-05-2009, 12:54 AM

All depends on budget really....

Thanks Adam for the advice. Here's what i got last night based on my budget.

1. Futaba 2PL controller.
2. Futaba MC330CR FET Speed Controller.
3. Tamiya Super Stock Motor TZ.
4. Batt and charger.

Everything on the Cyber 10B is still standard and I guess will remain that way till I know more about what I'm doing :blush:

thom.p

05-05-2009, 01:09 PM

Adam, ever thought of this?:
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/rallyking-albums-parts-picture9911-dscn0466.jpg
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/rallyking-albums-parts-picture9910-dscn0481.jpg

Because since I had a new version shocktower on my D4 and I decided to hit a pole it did this:
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/rallyking-albums-team-associated-rc10b4-ft-picture9641-hb-d4-front-gearbox-kapot.jpg

Adam Skelding

05-05-2009, 03:24 PM

Looks the same as what happened to my D4 at the weekend.

We did think about it, but then the more you strengthen a car 's weak points the more damage you seem to do to more expensive parts.

A car needs 'weak' points.

I have a tower that has the outer holes dremelled off it as I never use them, this seems to help reduce 'upside-down' snap moments.
Head-ons: This is a dice-roller, somethign will break.

TBH in the last year I think I did 2 towers and 2 gearbox tops. Not too bad for the amount of racing I did.

It is a nice Idea and a solution to the problem. My only worry would be what breaks next ;)

leinad

08-05-2009, 06:17 AM

Just curious... for hop ups (e.g.: turnbuckles, shocks, Drivetrain, etc) is it a must to get only HPI and HB products?

streetfreak

08-05-2009, 01:18 PM

I am running a brushless sidewinder and I swapped out the 84t spur for a kawada 81t.Right now have a 21t pinion on it, and it runs pretty cool how high do u think i can go in pinion size?

leinad

08-05-2009, 05:45 PM

Started work on the body today... hope to be able to post some pics soon for advice, comments and suggestions :)

leinad

08-05-2009, 05:47 PM

:p More pics of my New Cyber10b By HPI .For those interested in Buying this is a Quality 4wd Buggy and it runs Stick Packs which is a ++ For mee.

Sorry streetfreak, what shocks do you have on your kit?

telboy

08-05-2009, 07:56 PM

They look like associated to me.

Still not built mine yet!!:lol:
Had it a week and its still boxed.

streetfreak

09-05-2009, 12:24 AM

Yup There Associated B44 Shocks front and rear.Got my D4 Rear CVD's on today sweet no more flying Dogbone.:thumbsup:

streetfreak

13-05-2009, 01:26 AM

Buggy Handles awsome and is much more contrllable then my b44 used to be ,I'm very pleased w/ the overall performance.I have not yet put a slipper clutch in yet but when hpi releases it in June i will pick 1 up.Again Great Performing car Thumbs up to Hpi.:wub:thumbsup::lol::drool:

leinad

13-05-2009, 03:29 AM

Had some time to take a few snapshots...

Forgive me ignorance :blush:, are the front wheels (IMG_0004.JPG) pointing too much inwards?

pgeldz

13-05-2009, 11:58 AM

I have not yet put a slipper clutch in yet but when hpi releases it in June i will pick 1 up.

I thought the D4 Slipper will fit, no?

- Paulie

Adam Skelding

13-05-2009, 12:07 PM

Had some time to take a few snapshots...

Forgive me ignorance :blush:, are the front wheels (IMG_0004.JPG) pointing too much inwards?

Hi,
From the photo's it does look like they are a little 'inwards'.
It is really hard to spot from a photo as the lens performs all sorts of illusions.

Take the tyres off and just set it with only the wheels on, this takes away the wobbly tyre factor.

Adjust both sides at the same time. Measure with a vernier if pssoible to make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are the same length at all times.

I'll measure mine when I get home tonight and tell you the length.

leinad

13-05-2009, 12:42 PM

...

I'll measure mine when I get home tonight and tell you the length.

Thanks Adam, you're da best :thumbsup:

Btw, do measure only the steering turnbuckles and not something else... :lol:

leinad

13-05-2009, 02:43 PM

...

Adjust both sides at the same time. Measure with a vernier if pssoible to make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are the same length at all times.

....

Hi Adam,

I went through the user manual again and found my mistake :blush:

Re-measured and now they look 'normal' :)

Do you have any recommendations for turnbuckles and rodends?

scrawl

13-05-2009, 11:21 PM

Well, I ended up purchasing the Cyber 10b. Been patiently waiting for a 4wd that takes stick packs and comes in a Kit.

I'm part way through the build. The only real surprise so far is no bearings were provided for the diffs. Bushings instead. Some of the center-shaft outdrives are plastic, but that could be a non-issue.

Something very minor - it would have been nice if the manual said the 0.2mm shims were silver and the 0.1mm shims were copper. Quite challenging to work this out yourself at 11pm at night under a fluro light.

Other than that, quality of the parts appear excellent. The plastics have a nice tactile feel and are well moulded. Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain :)

I was lucky enough to find a second-hand D4 that came with enough parts to fully outfit the Cyber 10b. D4 shocks, WCE slipper, rear CVDs, etc. Eyeballing, everything looks like it will fit except for the center shaft CVDs. Will be able to confirm later this evening.

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

Wondering if I should also diff lube the gearbox gears as per the manual. I've never done this to my 2wd Losi but not 100% sure if this is something unique to the HPI plastic gears.

streetfreak

14-05-2009, 12:08 AM

Hey Their is a seperate package w/ an orange paper in it this package has the steel outdrives in it you are looking for..also use the the lube that comes with the red cap it has grey lube in it hope this helps?

leinad

14-05-2009, 12:52 AM

... Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain :)

...

I totally agree with you. Being totally new to this, I never knew what was coming till I started to lose feeling from my thumb and index finger :lol:

scrawl

14-05-2009, 03:43 AM

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

My mistake - I meant to say grease. Regardless, wouldn't greasing up the dogbones and CVDs just end up caking the dogbone with dirt and grime?

Adam Skelding

14-05-2009, 08:06 AM

Hi Scrawl,

I'll try to go through your points 1 by 1.

Pg 13 of the manual shows the part numbers for the shims and the parts list at the back pg 40. Has the colours.
It does look like a slight omission on our part. Duly noted, the instruction guy will be shot ;)

Greasing.
I do put a very small amount of lube on the dogbone end. I use the back grease from the kit or the DIP grease with the orange cap.
The DIP grease with the orange cap is awesome for the gears also. As it the HUDY graphite grease: http://www.mirageracing.com/piw.php?partNo=DY106210

The kit diff lube on the gears will be OK, but a little stiff (i.e. not free to rotate). The black/grey in the kit would be better.

The CVD end I always make sure it is well greased with associated black grease. Wipe off the excess and your good to go.
A well greased CVD that attracts a little dirt is much better than a dry one which over heats ;)

Well, I ended up purchasing the Cyber 10b. Been patiently waiting for a 4wd that takes stick packs and comes in a Kit.

I'm part way through the build. The only real surprise so far is no bearings were provided for the diffs. Bushings instead. Some of the center-shaft outdrives are plastic, but that could be a non-issue.

Something very minor - it would have been nice if the manual said the 0.2mm shims were silver and the 0.1mm shims were copper. Quite challenging to work this out yourself at 11pm at night under a fluro light.

Other than that, quality of the parts appear excellent. The plastics have a nice tactile feel and are well moulded. Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain :)

I was lucky enough to find a second-hand D4 that came with enough parts to fully outfit the Cyber 10b. D4 shocks, WCE slipper, rear CVDs, etc. Eyeballing, everything looks like it will fit except for the center shaft CVDs. Will be able to confirm later this evening.

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

Wondering if I should also diff lube the gearbox gears as per the manual. I've never done this to my 2wd Losi but not 100% sure if this is something unique to the HPI plastic gears.

scrawl

14-05-2009, 01:50 PM

leinad

14-05-2009, 03:05 PM

Adam Skelding

14-05-2009, 03:07 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't realise you were an HPI rep Adam.

I'm happy to say I have built my first set of CVD's (with grease no less). Am I right to assume these need some time to break in? I notice they sometimes 'catch' while rotating by hand.

No probs.

'Catch' - If you mean at absolute full articulation 'not in the car' then yes they do. All CVD's are compromised at full articulation unless they are 'Double CVD's'
In the car the CVD's should be sweet as a whistle. Do they 'catch' at one point or two? Are they front or rear which are catching?

Adam Skelding

14-05-2009, 03:25 PM

Hi Adam... is it safe to say that as long as the length of the turnbuckle is the same as the one stated in the manual, it's safe to use on the Cyber 10B? Am actually looking at the titanium set for the Cyber 10B from HPI, but have no idea where to purchase them from.

The length of the turnbuckles in the manual should be pretty spot on for the positions used. There is always a litle difference between kits due to compounding of tolerances in each part. It could be a maximum of +/-0.5mm.

Best thing to do is set the camber as you can measure this.
The set the steering turnbuckles to get your wheels straight. Always do these with the car fully laden.
Then, check / re-set the camber.

:thumbsup:

As for the Ti turnbuckles, they're in stock at HPI, so you should be able to ask your local model shop over the weekend to get you some in.

leinad

15-05-2009, 06:35 AM

...

As for the Ti turnbuckles, they're in stock at HPI, so you should be able to ask your local model shop over the weekend to get you some in.

That's great news... am over in SG and am not sure how long it'll take the distros to get them in. What are the essential bits you'd recommend getting (as spares)?

Thanks again for your guidance :thumbsup:

Adam Skelding

15-05-2009, 07:31 AM

SG?

Spares: Just the Basics. (I'm going off D4 running here)

Front and Rear Towers
Front Wishbones
Castor/Caster Block
Knuckles (Although I'm not sure if I've broke one - ever)

After the 24 hour meeting the only things I replaced were:
Z264 drive pins (In the CVD's)
Centre (Slipper) Drive Cups (WCE)
Centre CVD's

That's it. the diffs are still super smooth. So no need to rebuild them.

TBH- The D4 is probably the most durable car I've ever run, and I'm not just saying that ;). So the Cyber has got good DNA in it's older brother and it seems to have been passed on and not skipped a generation!

leinad

15-05-2009, 07:45 AM

SG?

...

SG = Singapore (South East Asia)

leinad

15-05-2009, 08:08 AM

...

TBH- The D4 is probably the most durable car I've ever run, and I'm not just saying that ;). So the Cyber has got good DNA in it's older brother and it seems to have been passed on and not skipped a generation!

That's good to hear, glad i decided on the Cyber 10B and not the other option i had in mind.

Just curious, will the Adjustable Slipper Clutch Set for the D4s fit the Cyber just fine?

Also, what are CVDs? Are they the Center Drive Shafts?

Sorry for the constant stream of silly questions :blush:

scrawl

15-05-2009, 01:04 PM

Just curious, will the Adjustable Slipper Clutch Set for the D4s fit the Cyber just fine? Yep, though you may want to put a spring inside the cup to stop the dogbones from rattling around.

CVD stands for Constant Velocity Drives. It's the type of universal joint found on the front axles.

leinad

17-05-2009, 10:11 PM

Yep, though you may want to put a spring inside the cup to stop the dogbones from rattling around.

CVD stands for Constant Velocity Drives. It's the type of universal joint found on the front axles.

Thanks scrawl, for the advice.

... Eyeballing, everything looks like it will fit except for the center shaft CVDs. ...
Btw, did the center shaft CVDs from the D4 fit the Cyber 10B?

scrawl

17-05-2009, 11:23 PM

I used my remaining CVD rebuild kits on the rear drive shafts so couldn't install them.

I did go as far as removing the couplings from the gearbox and dropping the center shafts in place as a test. The rear shaft is a direct fit. The Cyber 10B's spur gear assembly is the same dimensions as the WCE slipper, so you need a WCE front central shaft. It's slightly shorter than then standard D4 front central shaft.

As well as the shafts, you also need the coupling drives for the gearboxes.

On a different note, I'd be curious to see how everyone is laying out their electronics in the chassis. If you could post a photo up, it'd be greatly appreciated.

leinad

18-05-2009, 12:52 AM

... If you could post a photo up, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Here's a pic of my electronics layout in the chassis. Hope it's clear enough :blush:

radwerx

18-05-2009, 08:54 AM

Hi all. Does anyone know if the 10B uses the exact (same shape and material) wishbones and knuckles/uprights from the D4? Thanks.

scrawl

18-05-2009, 10:36 AM

Yep. Identical part numbers.

radwerx

18-05-2009, 12:37 PM

Yep. Identical part numbers.

Great. Is the material sorta like the 'carbon reinforced composite' that Tamiya uses for its higher end kits?

scrawl

19-05-2009, 02:11 PM

radwerx

19-05-2009, 03:46 PM

That's right, I believe HPI/Hotbodies refer to it as 'carbon reinforced composite' too.

Here are some pictures of the car I've been building. Just finished installing the electronics. Nice to work on such a roomy chassis.

Cool. That got my hands itching quite a bit.

Was looking at the HB webbie and I noticed they offer the
Adjustable Slipper Clutch Kit #61587 and the
Front and rear shock kits #61585 and #61586

for the D4. Do you know if I might need to add any additional parts to make the slipper kit and the shock kits work?
Was thinking I might need new cups from the D4 for the aluminium shaft in the slipper kit to fit the Cyber 10B.
Shocks wise I suppose they will just snap on right? Are the Associated shocks cheaper or are the HB ones cheaper?

mes

19-05-2009, 05:47 PM

I wonder when the kit will be released in Germany...

scrawl

19-05-2009, 11:34 PM

Do you know if I might need to add any additional parts to make the slipper kit and the shock kits work?
Was thinking I might need new cups from the D4 for the aluminium shaft in the slipper kit to fit the Cyber 10B.

No additional parts required for either the slipper or shocks that I can see.

To install the aluminium shaft, you'll need a front gearbox CVD from the D4 and possibly a CVD rebuild kit.

The thickness of the aluminium shaft might pose a problem for the rear center shaft. My lipo (Intellect IP3800) barely clears the standard shaft - the extra thickness of the D4 one I believe will cause it to rub.

Just discovered the rear shaft coupling touches the battery. Had to push the lipo all the way forward and add extra foam to keep them apart.

I suspect the problem is the battery has some raised edges designed to mimic a NIMH pack. It increases the overall height of the lipo.

leinad

20-05-2009, 07:12 AM

... and dropping the center shafts in place as a test. The rear shaft is a direct fit. The Cyber 10B's spur gear assembly is the same dimensions as the WCE slipper, so you need a WCE front central shaft. It's slightly shorter than then standard D4 front central shaft. ...

The front central shaft you're referring to is the one with the item number HB-61578, right? Which center drive shaft does the Adjustable Slipper Clutch set (HB-61587) come with (back or front)?

leinad

20-05-2009, 07:20 AM

...

To install the aluminium shaft, you'll need a front gearbox CVD from the D4 and possibly a CVD rebuild kit. ...

Am confused as to this rebuild kit i read around the forum, what is it actually? Is there a model/item number to this front gearbox CVD that i can visually look at to aid my confusion? :blush:

mes

20-05-2009, 07:49 AM

FYI, the manual is online:
http://www.hpieurope.com/manuals/pdf/100703.pdf
:thumbsup:

leinad

20-05-2009, 05:18 PM

Just curious... will the D4 body fit the Cyber 10B :eh?:

telboy

20-05-2009, 08:30 PM

Dont think so. The Cyber chassis is wider at the rear to accommodate the cells across the chassis.
But the Cyber should fit the D4.

I think the Cyber is the better looking shell to be honest.:thumbsup:

leinad

21-05-2009, 04:34 AM

...

I think the Cyber is the better looking shell to be honest.:thumbsup:

Thanks telboy :thumbsup:

radwerx

21-05-2009, 09:36 AM

The front central shaft you're referring to is the one with the item number HB-61578, right? Which center drive shaft does the Adjustable Slipper Clutch set (HB-61587) come with (back or front)?

It doesnt say. but it seems to be the 61578. Here's a picture of the entire slipper kit.
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/graphics/parts/61587/61587_01.jpg

leinad

21-05-2009, 10:02 AM

It doesnt say. but it seems to be the 61578. ...

Will try it tonight when i get home (postman finally visited) and post back with some pics :)

scrawl

21-05-2009, 10:58 AM

It's for the front. The WCE slipper is longer towards the front compared to the original D4 slipper. The included shaft makes up for this difference.

On a different note, installing the rear D4 shaft will cause it to interfere with my battery. A mixture of it being thicker and connecting to the gearbox at an angle.

My lipos have little feet designed to mimic a NIMH cell which I think makes it taller. I had to push the battery forward too to stop it from rubbing against the rear coupling.

leinad

21-05-2009, 12:25 PM

It's for the front. The WCE slipper is longer towards the front compared to the original D4 slipper. The included shaft makes up for this difference.

...

Thanks scrawl... just noticed it while fixing it up :)

mes

21-05-2009, 03:17 PM

Apart from the obviously different colour, is there any difference between the WCE slipper set and the upcoming orange dedicated Cyber slipper set? The price maybe?

Do you think you could do without a slipper for the time being if running only a 13.5 and/or 17.5 motor? (not simultaneously, of course!)

leinad

22-05-2009, 06:31 PM

...

I was lucky enough to find a second-hand D4 that came with enough parts to fully outfit the Cyber 10b. ...

Just curious scrawl... did you by any chance try mounting the Front and Rear Gear Box on the Cyber 10B to see if it fits :woot:

scrawl

22-05-2009, 11:29 PM

Do you think you could do without a slipper for the time being if running only a 13.5 and/or 17.5 motor? (not simultaneously, of course!)

I've been wondering the same thing myself. In 2WD stock, I've been running without a slipper since January and haven't noticed any real increase in wear and tear. This is on fairly dusty dirt track and being 2WD means you're never really getting any serious traction.

Just curious scrawl... did you by any chance try mounting the Front and Rear Gear Box on the Cyber 10B to see if it fits

Neither are a direct fit.

You wouldn't want to run the rear D4 gearbox anyway as it doesn't have the angled drive cup.

Looking at the front gearbox, the top part might be interchangable but then you'd have to find a compatible top deck.

Managed to weigh the car too. 1680g all up, including lipo.

While looking at the gearboxes, just noticed the steering knuckles differ in design (I think it's called the knuckle) to the D4, as do the front arms.

D4 knuckles have a small grub screw which captures the pin and attach to the turnbuckle from the top. Cyber knuckles attach to the turnbuckle sideways. The pin is captured on the arm with some small screws.

So if you switch to D4 front arms, you'll either need to drill some small holes in to capture the pin or switch to D4 knuckles too.

telboy

25-05-2009, 07:21 PM

Well done to Adam Skelding for taking the NE Regional win with the Cyber 10b against some quick looking Cats and Kyosho's. But the Cyber was lapping faster than everyone all day.
But an excellent race in the final was very close with the Cyber taking it!

Nice one.:thumbsup:

leinad

25-05-2009, 09:11 PM

Congrads Adam... :thumbsup:

Wraggy

25-05-2009, 09:15 PM

Well done to Adam Skelding for taking the NE Regional win with the Cyber 10b :thumbsup:
Think you ment Mid East Tel:thumbsup: and there was a B44 in there;)
good result thought Adam and Car looked Dialled in the last 2 rounds

tak racing

25-05-2009, 09:33 PM

Think you ment Mid East Tel:thumbsup: and there was a B44 in there;)
good result thought Adam and Car looked Dialled in the last 2 rounds

And a S4 which came 3rd ;)

telboy

25-05-2009, 09:53 PM

Think you ment Mid East Tel:thumbsup: and there was a B44 in there;)
good result thought Adam and Car looked Dialled in the last 2 rounds

Yep, pressed the wrong key matey. :)

Sorry did forget the other cars....couldn't see them through all the dust.lol

The Cyber did look very good though. Must mak the changes to mine. :)

...oh, and chop Adams thumbs off and glue them to mine!:lol:

leinad

25-05-2009, 10:10 PM

...

The Cyber did look very good though. Must mak the changes to mine. :)

...

Pics please... pics :woot:

Adam Skelding

25-05-2009, 10:41 PM

Here's a photo before the final.
I'll take a scan of the set-up and post it on here.

We don't have an editable .pdf yet, but should be coming soon.:thumbsup:

scrawl

25-05-2009, 11:21 PM

Finished building my Cyber10b.

Only thing left now is to wait for the weather to clear up and visit the track.

leinad

26-05-2009, 01:05 AM

Finished building my Cyber10b.

... .

Awesome :thumbsup:

Panic

26-05-2009, 03:31 AM

Is this car available yet and are there any plans to release some carbon fibre parts for it?(ie towers, chassis, etc etc).

Tnks

leinad

26-05-2009, 03:43 AM

Is this car available yet and are there any plans to release some carbon fibre parts for it?(ie towers, chassis, etc etc).

Tnks

Kit is available where I am. Not sure about future options parts, but here are the goodies (http://www.hpiracing.com/kitoptions/100702/) they currently have :)

telboy

26-05-2009, 08:55 AM

Panic

26-05-2009, 04:27 PM

No need for the carbon chassis etc. its good enough as it is.
There are the obvious hop ups like the slipper and drive train parts, but other than that, no need fo carbon.

If you like carbon, theres always the D4. :)

I already have a D4:thumbsup: but i want to switch to a car that can run with stick lipos. I cant stand those saddle packs anymore. :thumbdown:

scrawl

26-05-2009, 11:28 PM

What I would like to see is a center driveshaft CVD coupling for the rear gearbox.

The D4 one makes the center shaft slope too steeply. Can't sling a lipo underneath.

telboy

26-05-2009, 11:59 PM

Pretty sure they make an option part for the cvd prop shafts.
If its not out now then it'll be out soon. :)

BloodClod

10-06-2009, 05:26 PM

Hi guys,

I was wondering if you guys could share some of your gearing setups for your Cyber10B. I'm running 26/80 with a Tekin Redline8.5 Brushless motor for a rather small technical track and it's getting rather hot. What has been working for you in terms of motor and gearing?

Thanks.

Adam Skelding

10-06-2009, 08:30 PM

Hi,
26/80 seems a bit much. (7.5:1)
I've been running 22/84 on the Nosram Pure 6.5T Brushless. (9.30:1)

8.5T, I'd be looking at 24 or 25 with an 84 spur. 8.53/8.19:1

:thumbsup:

scrawl

12-06-2009, 03:58 AM

With a Losi Xcelorin 17.5, I ended up at 35/78 (FDR 5.35).

After a 5 minute club race, temps peak around 138F.

Speaking of which, I ran the C10B for the first time last Sunday at my local club meet in 4wd stock. The buggy was competitive. Qualified second and managed a second in one of the finals after some support and suggestions from the top driver.

I noticed it's quite heavy compared to the competition. Mine is hitting 1720g after I added some adhesive chassis protector. Think I'll revert back to the non-slipper setup to get some weight out of the drivetrain.

leinad

13-06-2009, 11:12 AM

Had a day out with my son... some shots to share :)

julius_makewar

13-06-2009, 02:03 PM

Does anyone know if IB 5000mAh hardcased lipo's fit the Cyber 10B?

mes

14-06-2009, 06:15 AM

If they have the standard dimensions that all hardcase lipos have, they should fit. You can download the manual and have a look, there are no obstructions or bottom holes in the battery tray. Only one problem could arise: If you chose to put the spacer foam in the front and the battery to the rear, it could rub against the drive shaft.

julius_makewar

14-06-2009, 03:25 PM

Its the height I am concerned with. The IP5000mah is 25mm high including the small lumps on the bottom.

leinad

16-06-2009, 02:54 PM

Can't get one of the Button Head Screw (located at the rear shock tower) out as the top has lost it's shape. Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

leinad

17-06-2009, 05:33 AM

Hi Adam,

What pinion size should i get if i have a 23T Motor and a 80T Spur gear?

Adam Skelding

17-06-2009, 09:26 AM

Hi Adam,

What pinion size should i get if i have a 23T Motor and a 80T Spur gear?

Ermmmmmm
Good Question
For the 24 Hour race we ran a 10.5 Brushless (19T Equivalent with a 14mm Sintered Rotor)
This we had on 26/84.

I have no data for 23T motors. I've never run one at all.

leinad

17-06-2009, 03:03 PM

Hi scrawl... just experimenting, is the front Center Drive Shaft (86.5mm) suppose to be so close to the edge of the slipper?

Sorry for the pic quality.

mes

19-06-2009, 01:13 PM

I'm sorry in case I overlooked it anywhere else, but does anybody know, when the orange *Bling* (slipper clutch etc.) willl be released?
I'm still wondering whether to buy a Cyber this year, although the Off-Road season will be almost over when I return from the States in late August and the little time that will be left is reserved for my SC10 (that finally starts to behave after I added some 1° rear Yokomo hub carriers)...
Although I have fallen in love with the DEX410, I think it to be overkill for running a 13.5T motor maximum.

mr. ed

21-06-2009, 10:14 AM

Its the height I am concerned with. The IP5000mah is 25mm high including the small lumps on the bottom.

Can't you put these packs upside down: so the lumps point up. since there are 6 lumps you should have a lower gap int the middle to help clear the CVD.

(This all in the assumption these packs don't have plugs on the top but old-fashioned lead coming out at the end)

scrawl

21-06-2009, 11:33 PM

Hi scrawl... just experimenting, is the front Center Drive Shaft (86.5mm) suppose to be so close to the edge of the slipper?

Sorry for the pic quality.

Hi Leinad, I never installed the D4 front drive shaft due to not having a spare CVD rebuild kit. I did a quick eyeball and the dimensions looked like it was possible.

I think that is uncomfortably close to the end of the outdrive.

leinad

22-06-2009, 03:08 AM

...

I think that is uncomfortably close to the end of the outdrive.
I thought so too... :lol:

julius_makewar

22-06-2009, 03:21 AM

Can't you put these packs upside down: so the lumps point up. since there are 6 lumps you should have a lower gap int the middle to help clear the CVD.

(This all in the assumption these packs don't have plugs on the top but old-fashioned lead coming out at the end)

Can't do, as you say, my packs have the banana plugs so won't work upside down.

Anyone else.

Cheers

charlessito

22-06-2009, 04:00 PM

did anyone try using the D4 motor mount on the cyber?
Adam where did you get your 84t spur ,my sliper for d4 only come with 80t. Using the 80t I can only manage to get a 22t pinion ,anything smaller it just way too far apart.

mes

22-06-2009, 05:22 PM

Maybe he used an Associated spur gear. Provided you use the AE slipper pads, I guess it should work.

Spur Gear 84T: A-9653
Slipper Pads: A-9603

Adam Skelding

22-06-2009, 07:09 PM

mes

22-06-2009, 07:20 PM

Is it also stock for the orange slipper clutch? Are the "orange" spur gears the same as the "purple" ones?

charlessito

23-06-2009, 02:04 PM

thanks adam

mes

27-06-2009, 02:43 PM

Would anybody be so kind and post the dimensions of the box? I'vo got to check wether it fits in my baggage in addition to my clothing should I decide to buy the kit on my busibess trip...:)

scrawl

28-06-2009, 07:29 AM

@mes: 15x25x15cm

@charlessito: I've been using Associated and Losi spurs with the D4 slipper.

Using the standard non-slipper shaft, Kimbrough type spurs are compatible (Associated, Robinson, Duratrax to name a few).

duster666

28-06-2009, 11:33 PM

I have been looking everywhere for a forum on this ride. I am getting mine on Wednesday. I have been wanting a 4WD buggy for a while. This one seems to be good. Lots of Great INFO on this Forum. I will probaly have a few questions a long the way. This just will be a Fun Basher for now. I plan on using a Traxxas 12T Titan and a XL-5 ESC. I have that lying around. Finally some people with this buggy!!!!!!!!!!!:woot::woot:

mes

29-06-2009, 03:14 PM

@scrawl: Thanks for the information, but do you mean inch instead of cm? 15x25x15 cm seems a little small... 38.1x63.5x38.1cm seems a bit large on the other hand :eh?:

Or is it 51x52x51 or 51x25x15?! The latter would be nice to stow the completed kit inside!:D

telboy

29-06-2009, 06:35 PM

The box is rather large. So would say he meant inch. You can fit the car....and then some, into the box.

mes

29-06-2009, 07:40 PM

Too bad, it won't fit in my baggage...:cry:
Thank you vey much nontheless!

scrawl

29-06-2009, 11:16 PM

Ah, my fault! I measured the box before rushing out of the house.

For anyone who is interested, there are plenty of photos and notes I kept while building the Cyber 10B over at http://psytoy.net/radio-control/building-the-hpi-cyber-10b/

duster666

30-06-2009, 01:42 AM

Mine is in the mail. Just going to use for fun. But I cannot find the Slipper clutch for sale anywhere. Anyone know where to get it???

leinad

30-06-2009, 05:01 AM

...

For anyone who is interested, there are plenty of photos and notes I kept while building the Cyber 10B over at http://psytoy.net/radio-control/building-the-hpi-cyber-10b/

Thanks for sharing :)

leinad

30-06-2009, 04:40 PM

Hi scrawl/Adam,

Any idea if the D4's Rear Suspension Mount is a direct fit to the Cyber 10B's?

Thanks in advance.

telboy

30-06-2009, 10:45 PM

Mine is in the mail. Just going to use for fun. But I cannot find the Slipper clutch for sale anywhere. Anyone know where to get it???

Anywhere that stock HPI/HB stuff should stock it, if not then they will be able to order it for you.

If you race, then get the slipper in and race it.
I'm more than impressed with it and I'm having better results with this car than I was with the D4!

found- http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/HB61587.html

mes

01-07-2009, 02:29 PM

The box is rather large. So would say he meant inch. You can fit the car....and then some, into the box.

How does it compare to the SC10 box in size? I have it around, so I can check (never give up!)
I have never had an HPI kit so far, how full is the box? Could you just put the contents into a plastic bag and fold down the box in order to take the kit along in a trolley case?

telboy

01-07-2009, 06:04 PM

bjcaldwe

01-07-2009, 09:59 PM

Empty the box and if you want to keep the box, break it down maybe?

leinad

02-07-2009, 03:33 AM

Morning scrawl, any idea if the D4's Motor Mount (61453) and the Center Bulkhead (61454) are a direct fit on the Cyber 10B?

andy reeves

02-07-2009, 07:25 AM

Morning scrawl, any idea if the D4's Motor Mount (61453) and the Center Bulkhead (61454) are a direct fit on the Cyber 10B?

In Theory yes the D4 motor mount does fit, however practically it has too many knock on effects to be a feasible option.

leinad

02-07-2009, 08:22 AM

In Theory yes the D4 motor mount does fit, however practically it has too many knock on effects to be a feasible option.

Thanks andy for your reply, am i safe to say that it will fit then? Am asking coz from where I'm from (SG), HPI parts are harder to get than HB parts :( Trying to gather what are the parts that are compatible, in case things break suddenly.

Am now having some downtime coz I need a new rear suspension mount and the LHS has no stock for it :cry:

scrawl

02-07-2009, 01:18 PM

The bottom screw holes look identical but the holes for the top brace are different.

The spur gear is also located higher on the Cyber 10B to allow the battery to slide under the central shaft. Even if you do get the D4 mount installed, I think the drive shaft would impeded the battery.

Rear suspension mounts are completely different too.

mes

02-07-2009, 02:43 PM

Yeah you could do that. The box isn't mega full.

In comparison to the SC10 box the Cyber is small! lol
You couldn't fit the SC10 into the cyber box, put it that way.:D

Why don't you just get rid of the box?

I really like boxes! :p

I tried to fit the SC10 Box in one of my two almost identical trolley cases and but for about 5cm/2" it almost fitted inside.

I think I will try my luck, and if it doeas not fid inside, break the box down as suggested.

Thank you guys!

Oh, one more thing: Is the D4 Wing Mount a direct fit?
Edit:
Another 'Oh!' : How mean of Jimmy to show me the Durango vids on youtube, now I do not know AGAIN what kit to buy...I Guess that solved my baggage problem, I'll have to wait and see...

scrawl

03-07-2009, 09:11 AM

Yep, the D4 wing mount is a direct fit.

Must say I like the Cyber-10B mount more. It allows you to adjust the height but more importantly it has some flex. End result is the Polycarbonate wing takes less damage on impact - the wing mount simply flexes backwards.

leinad

03-07-2009, 10:17 AM

Yep, the D4 wing mount is a direct fit.

...

Thought they look of the same quality built :blush:

telboy

03-07-2009, 06:32 PM

airhappy

04-07-2009, 04:04 PM

I fitted the #61531 Center One Way on my Cyber10 along with the #61531 Center One Way last night. Used a 78mm drive shaft from Tamiya on the front and #61472 76mm Drive Shaft to the rear. Will test this today.

leinad

04-07-2009, 05:30 PM

airhappy

08-07-2009, 12:59 AM

Please note that this style of battery is pushed back to the stop. There is 2mm of clearance to the shaft.

leinad

22-07-2009, 05:13 AM

Hi All... am looking for white springs but have no idea which would fit the D4 WCE shocks. Please advice.

Thanks.

JohnM

22-07-2009, 06:06 AM

When you say white springs, do you mean white in colour, or white being the way they are graded compared to other springs?

If you mean white in colour, then Losi white rears will fit ok, but will be very soft, perhaps too soft.

Hotbodies have "white" springs, which are black, with a touch of white paint on them so that you can tell which grade they are.

leinad

22-07-2009, 07:05 AM

...

If you mean white in colour, then Losi white rears will fit ok, but will be very soft, perhaps too soft.

....

Hi John... thanks for your reply. White in color actually, sorry for being vague. Any other brand(s) that are 'hard(er)' and white in color?

Cheers :)

telboy

22-07-2009, 08:30 AM

Don't think so. White are usually quite soft from my experience.

I'm currently running kit fronts and losi pink or red rears. and this is tending to work on most tracks. Infact, I've not changed form pink rears since I put them on.:D

Are the white spring purely for a colour matching plan?

leinad

22-07-2009, 08:42 AM

...

Are the white spring purely for a colour matching plan?

Not really, thought i read somewhere white was hard. My bad :blush:

telboy

22-07-2009, 05:00 PM

I think some TC white springs are hard, but the Losi off road ones for the HB shocks are soft. :)

NinetySix

26-07-2009, 08:15 AM

Im having a little trouble setting up the diffs in my cyber10b... this is my first 4wd car, and first to use ball diffs (comming from a rustler VXL) so it might be pretty elementary.

I built everything as per the manual, and used grey grease on all the dog bones & CVD's, and after a 5 minute bash in the dirt the whole driveline was caked with grit and binding up quite badly. Pulled it all down and cleaned it all out, but the diffs were still quite stiff and "gritty" in their motion. The 8 very small ball bearings under the diff screw were also covered in dirt, so I pulled them down and cleaned it all out. Bearings are still good, bevel gears too... without the screw in and just pushing the diff together it spins freely, but with the screw in (and 8 small ball bearings with a small ammount of grey grease) and the tension set so the bevel gear cant spin with two allen keys holding the steel outdrives still.... it still has a really gritty, far from smooth feel when spinning just one outdrive at a time.

This is only really happening with the rear diff, fronts not too bad... there is definitely no dirt at all in there, so its got me stumped.

Any ideas? If anybody knows a better way to set the diffs up I would love to know :blush:

Thanks

bodgit

26-07-2009, 11:01 AM

Im not 100% sure about this but I think you,ve overtightened the diffs.
With both outdrives locked with allan keys you should just about be able to turn the bevel gear. try loosening the diffs by 1/8 turn at a time seeif it improves.

NinetySix

26-07-2009, 11:23 AM

with the wheels on, if you hold one tyre should it be very easy to turn the other wheel? or just a very light touch?

thanks

telboy

26-07-2009, 09:37 PM

I usually set mine so that when you hold the diff in your hand, and lock the outdrives with allen drivers, you should just be able to make the diff slip. It does feel tight but it should be just about right if you can move it.

If you hold one wheel with one hand the other will turn but it may feel a bit tight or 'feel' gritty.

If its attracting dirt onto the driveshafts etc. Clean the grease off them. That is what will be attracting the dirt and grit.
I run mine dry and have had no problem at all.

I'd also fully strip the thrustrace down (the bit with the small balls) and get all the grease off. Then re-build it and put a little les grease on. I usually put some of the grease on a small flat screw driver and just put enough grease on the plate to hold the ball bearings in place whilst I build the rest up.
Mine's been pretty much bulletproof since I built it, and I've done 4 race meetings with it not being rebuilt yet.

hope this helps.

NinetySix

28-07-2009, 06:41 AM

Ok done all that, they are still a little noisy tho... but smooth enough.

Im having a little trouble with the front axles, they are assembled just as the manual states but with the wheel nuts done up "tight enough" its very hard to turn the wheels... my rusty has teflon washers to help with this but no sign of any on the cyber?

telboy

28-07-2009, 07:50 AM

Yep, I noticed this problem at the weekend. My front right hand wheel was binding badly. I just loosened the wheel nut a little bit at a time until the wheel turned freely.
It was ok, and the wheel and nut stayed on fine for 3 races and it won the final. I haven't looked into the cause yet. So can't tell you why it does it. I've got a feeling that its just soft plastic on the wheels. And it doesn't need the nuts tightening up as much.
Other than that, it may just need some shims adding between the bearing and the hex.

NinetySix

28-07-2009, 08:46 AM

scratch that, worked it out... a wheel bearing failed, its had about 10 minutes use :mad: and the price! us$15 a pair!

telboy

28-07-2009, 09:41 AM

Hmm, I did think that myself, but with so little time since I bought it I didn't think that would be the cause.

I'll check later and see. I thought they would last longer than that.

Did yours have the clicking noise when you turned the wheel?
Maybe it is the bearing after all.

andy reeves

28-07-2009, 12:41 PM

I had a front wheel bearing go on my cyber in its second meeting. I have changed all the bearings on my cyber and now run the Edit D4 bearing set, and since never had a problem.

leinad

31-07-2009, 03:40 AM

...

Did yours have the clicking noise when you turned the wheel?
...

Mine has now... time to get new bearings :confused:

leinad

01-08-2009, 04:34 PM

Quick question, does the purple part (towards the front end) of the D4 WCE slipper clutch tend to loosen alot by itself?

telboy

01-08-2009, 04:52 PM

Yes. I take it you mean the collar that tightens the slipper?

Put some thread lock on it to stop it loosening. :)

It still moves to tighten but doesn't loosen during a race.

:thumbsup:

leinad

01-08-2009, 05:15 PM

Yes. I take it you mean the collar that tightens the slipper?

Put some thread lock on it to stop it loosening. :)

It still moves to tighten but doesn't loosen during a race.

:thumbsup:
Thanks telboy for the tip :thumbsup:

leinad

02-08-2009, 01:31 PM

Thanks telboy for the tip :thumbsup:

Gave 'her' a run this evening... (the threadlock) worked like a charm... thanks telboy for the advice :thumbsup:

the fos

16-08-2009, 03:50 PM

Hey all...i got some questions,

i have a mate and he claims he has a cyber 10b and its some special one....
but he wont show me.. he rekens he cant show me yet cause he hasnt got this motor mount... is there a tricky motor mount??

is there a special or pro version 10b??

telboy

16-08-2009, 06:20 PM

LOL, the special version of the Cyber is the D4! lol

They have a nice orange alloy motor mount out for the Cyber now.
But it is fairly pricey. I think in total it comes to around £80ish for all the parts.:wtf:

But other than that, unless he's an 'A team' he won't be getting any 'special parts' unless he's made them himself. :)

The Edit lightweight D4 diff and slipper parts will fit the Cyber too. Well worth the weight saving. :thumbsup:

leinad

17-08-2009, 03:06 PM

Anyone come across aluminum front and rear suspension mounts yet? Don't think HB's D4 fit, right?

telboy

17-08-2009, 06:20 PM

Alloy suspension mounts?
Do you mean the front and rear hubs?

If so, the D4 ones will fit the rear, but the front hubs on the Cyber are different. You may be able to fit the whole D4 hubs on the front though, but the parts will not swap/interchange.

If you mean shock towers, then I'm unaware that anyone make any.

leinad

18-08-2009, 12:40 AM

Alloy suspension mounts?

...

Hi telboy, am referring to this (http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/100846/). The front and rear hubs fit perfectly :thumbsup:

Btw, are the Yeah Racing Blue Telfon Bearings (http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/blue-telfon-bearing-bodies-cyclone-chassis-yb0210b-p-2376.html) ok replacement to the original bearings that came with the kit?

telboy

18-08-2009, 07:04 AM

Ah, ok, I see what you mean now. :blush:

Hmm. Not sure. If anyone has a D4 and they would like to try the rear toe-in block on the Cyber then that would help to see.
Personally I don't know if they will fit, as I've been happy with the kit versions.

If any I'd say that the rear one might fit, but I doubt the inboard ones would. but like I say, I haven't tried and haven't got a D4 to try it. :)

leinad

18-08-2009, 07:26 AM

Thanks telboy for your reply. Btw, are the Yeah Racing Blue Telfon Bearings (http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/blue-telfon-bearing-bodies-cyclone-chassis-yb0210b-p-2376.html) ok replacement to the original bearings that came with the kit? No idea where to get the Edit D4 bearing set (not sure if i can afford it though) :blush:

telboy

18-08-2009, 08:46 AM

Providing they're a direct replacement set then I can't see why not. :)

leinad

18-08-2009, 08:47 AM

Providing they're a direct replacement set then I can't see why not. :)

Thanks again telboy, appreciate all the help you've dished out :thumbsup:

leinad

20-08-2009, 05:22 PM

Bearings (http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/blue-telfon-bearing-bodies-cyclone-chassis-yb0210b-p-2376.html) arrived and all seems ok so far :D

leinad

07-09-2009, 07:16 AM

A good afternoon to everyone,

Not normal for the screw at the top of the shock tower to bend, right? :confused:

Thanks in advance.

sparrow.2

07-09-2009, 07:51 AM

A good afternoon to everyone,

Not normal for the screw at the top of the shock tower to bend, right? :confused:

Thanks in advance.

Depends on what you hit and how fast you were going. Better the screw bends than the shock or tower breaking!

leinad

07-09-2009, 08:05 AM

Depends on what you hit and how fast you were going. Better the screw bends than the shock or tower breaking!

Noted with thanks, sparrow.2 :thumbsup:

Changing them would be a good idea then (currently bent slightly)?

sparrow.2

07-09-2009, 09:29 AM

You can bend them back within reason but they will be more likely to break eventually.

leinad

07-09-2009, 09:31 AM

You can bend them back within reason but they will be more likely to break eventually.

Thanks again, sparrow.2 :)

widnerkj

19-10-2009, 06:14 PM

Well, I like what I've heard here about this kit, So mine is on order now. I also picked up the UJ driveshafts, and a slipper clutch for it. I've got 3 BL motor combos laying around a castle creations 5700, 7700, and a TRX VXL. Which would be ideal for this little monster. For batteries, I've got a few 6cell nimh sticks, and a few 2 cell lipo's

panch

23-10-2009, 05:20 PM

To be honest it really depends on the track size and how technical or straight it is, if it's a smaller or a more technical track I would go for the 5700 kv which is approximatley a 6.5 turn. If you are on a larger track with long straights then the 7700kv which is about a 5.5 turn...

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

widnerkj

23-10-2009, 10:31 PM

Cool, that actually does help. What gearing would you reccomend to start with on the 7700? I know the VXL one is a 3500 so the gearing choices are pretty wide open.

panch

24-10-2009, 07:40 AM

Again this does depend on how big and open the track is as the lower the overall ratio the faster the top end and more heat will be generated... I would probably start with the stock spur and around a 21 pinion and gauge it from there..

widnerkj

26-10-2009, 10:34 PM

Well, I've given in, it's here, and I put the little guy together(sort of). Here's a peek so far. I did it strictly according to the manual, but, I don't like the toe on it. The tires are proline dirthawgs. They probally suck in the dirt, But they were cheap and i think it looks pretty cool. I tried really hard to hide the wires on it for a clean install. And i decided to go with the 5700kv on a 18t pinion, I'll have to let you know how it goes.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00041.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00042.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00046.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00043.jpg

Jamesy

28-10-2009, 08:51 AM

I don't like the toe on it.

Yeah, this is far too much toe in at the front.

I would adjust the steering turnbuckles so that the front wheels run parallel. Make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are equal lenghts.

widnerkj

29-10-2009, 11:59 PM

sparrow.2

30-10-2009, 12:35 AM

Don't ever(!) braid your wires. It will do strange things with your car, worsen your reception and heat your wires.

widnerkj

30-10-2009, 10:21 AM

Ahh. That explaines the weird reception issue it was having. I did it because I'd seen it a bunch on some other forum. Thanks for the tip

panch

30-10-2009, 11:54 AM

Yup fixed the toe, have it sitting pretty nice now. But I'm kind of dissapointed with the cc 5700. It was pretty good with a 20t pinion and the stock spur, but the motor would get really hot with 2-3 min of puttering around. So I opted for surgery. There will be pictures to come soon. But I swapped out the cc for a Trx VXL, and a 31t pinion. And now this thing is a bullet. I'm really impressed with this TRAX brushless combo. But the ESC is Friggin HUGE!! and it's running 12g wire to the motor.

Do you have the castle PC link up lead??? might be worth downloading the latest firmware onto the speedo and checking the timing settings..

I have been running the HPI version of this (exactly the same but rebadged)...Ran last time out with stock spur and a 24 pinion...temps well in the safe zone...approx 130F after about 7 mins ( 2mins warm up and 5 mins race)..(Castle recomend 200F Max but I wouldnt go higher than 180F to preserve the motor a little)

If you have got the lead download the latest firmware make sure the timing is either at default for the gearing I mention above or turn it down to lowest this will take about 30degs off the running temp, It will also give you alot more torque/punch and will then allow you to go up a couple of teeth on the pinion..

I have just done this and am running this sunday and starting with a 26 tooth pinion and stock spur and will temp check from there..

widnerkj

30-10-2009, 04:22 PM

I do have the castle link goodies, I had turned the timing down all the way and reduced the punch to about 40% But it was still far to hot to touch. I may try the castle again later on, but for now the VXL is pretty good for my uses. I still can't believe how well this car handles! My only issue right now is using a Turnigy 5000mAh 2S Hardcase, all the weight seems to be foreward, so if it gets ariborne, the nose drops really fast. Even with the throttle pegged.

widnerkj

30-10-2009, 04:38 PM

And here are the pictures I promised. The speed control was sort of a pain to get in there. Had to do some trimming on the esc itself. (if I was home and had my dremel it'd would have been too easy.)

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00047.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00048.jpg

widnerkj

30-10-2009, 04:44 PM

B.T.W. .... the black on the wheel is what happens if you leave your buggy unattended in a tent that 16 other guys live in. And the dust is the famous Afganistan "moon dust" it's finer than talcum powder, and will stop any R/C car you drive into the deep stuff. It's rather confusing for dirt on account of how it flows like water. weird.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00049.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/widnerkj1/RC%20Cars/DSC00050.jpg

widnerkj

01-11-2009, 12:03 AM

Well, now that I've bashed a little bit with this rocket. I have to admit, I've never driven a car that handles like this. And though the tires look as though they are only for the asphalt, in the hard packed dirt the car didn't slide very much at all. Has anyone else tried them?

stampede vxlboy

01-11-2009, 12:33 AM

thanks mate

widnerkj

01-11-2009, 12:36 AM

The Proline Dirt Hawgs that are on the buggy in the picture, the buggy was $199.99 from omnihobbies on ebay. And a fan for the vxl is comming in the mail.

stampede vxlboy

01-11-2009, 01:35 AM

how many diffs have you worn out ???

widnerkj

01-11-2009, 01:43 AM

Havn't cooked a diff yet, but I rebuild them every 2-4 days, and use tamiya ceramic grease. I figure it's better to err on the side of caution.

stampede vxlboy

01-11-2009, 01:57 AM

they sound like a good car

Col

01-11-2009, 08:58 AM

pm you

about 6000 times no doubt

stampede vxlboy

01-11-2009, 09:44 AM

no i did not col are you trying to be funny but its not work :p:D:woot:

y2kgtp

13-11-2009, 07:59 PM

Can this buggy use the Losi 4wd rear Rims? Been thinking about this one and the rear rims could be a big plus in my book.....

panch

13-11-2009, 08:09 PM

Can this buggy use the Losi 4wd rear Rims? Been thinking about this one and the rear rims could be a big plus in my book.....

Hi there if the losi rims are a standard hex then they will fit as do kyosho rims... Hope that helps :D

Si Coe

13-11-2009, 08:17 PM

y2kgtp

14-11-2009, 05:15 AM

Rear Losi rims are a pin fit, so yes you can use them, you just remove the hex adaptor and fit directly to the drivepin. Front Losi rims use a smaller than hex size than HB do so you need an adaptor, available as a D4 hop-up for a few quid.

BUT

Losi rims don't have as much offset as D4/Cyber rims. Using Losi wheels will make your car a bit narrower.

Is this for the rear, or all around? I have a bunch of pre-mounted losi rims with tires that match my track. Front rims I can pick up HB as I have NIP a couple sets of 4wd tires as well.

Si Coe

14-11-2009, 08:29 AM

I'm not really sure. I have a whole box of XX4 rims (front and rear) and they certainly make my D4 narrower than all the Kyosho hex type rims I have. Now since my D4 was 2nd hand, and the Kyosho wheels came with it it is possible they actually have a greater than normal offset, but its unlikely.
Its not a huge difference but it is measureable.

Jamesy

16-11-2009, 09:37 PM

y2kgtp

16-11-2009, 09:39 PM

I think the Kyosho front wheels are a wider offset then the HB ones.

I used Losi wheels front and rear on the D4 when it first came out. To fit the Losi front wheels you need the Losi wheel hex from HB (#61499 - http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=61499&lang=en)

The width is the same with the Losi rims as with the HB rims.

Cool. My main concern was with the rear rims, as I have several sets with tires that match my local track. I would need to buy front rims anyways :D