Why Aluminium Screws in the RC10 Classic Chassis

[bigalbi]

Is there a technical reason (other than pure weight saving) why the RC10 Classic main chassis screws for suspension and gearbox are aluminium?

I was thinking of bringing them up to date on a resto with some Stainless steel hex driven screws of equal spec.

[InsideLineModels]

I think it was just to keep the weight down as they are relatively large screws. I'm not sure it would make any noticeable difference though.

For info the Screwz4RC stainless screw kits now include the larger chassis screws found on the orignal RC10 buggies.

http://insidelinemodels.com/inside-line-shop/screws-nuts-spacers-etc/screw-selection-trays/screws4-rc-stainless-screw-kit-rc10-wc-p

[Stretch]

Well:

1. They are big screws, chosen to minimise the risk of stripping the threads they cut into the nylon of the gearbox and suspension mouldings. Making them out of any kind of steel would mean more weight. Back in the day, weight really was the enemy, as the batteries of the time were just 1200mAh, while the races were still 5 minutes.

2. Stainless steel screws in an alloy chassis will result in electrolytic corrosion of the chassis.

[bigalbi]

The rest of the screws supplied originally were A4 stainless steel so Associated weren't bothered about the electrolytic problem. If it's an anodised chassis does that change things.

My first car was a tamiya srb ranger in 1981 so the rc10 was a lightweight with or without the ali screws.

:-)

[Stretch]

The rest of the screws in the original car were 4-40 cap head oil-blacked steel - they rusted.

Anodising won't help with electrolytic corrosion, so I'm guessing weight was the thing. Remember: some drivers machined the chassis in an effort to further remove weight, and then there were any number of carbon fibre/honeycomb sandwich chassis to take it even further.

[InsideLineModels]

The rest of the screws in the original car were 4-40 cap head oil-blacked steel - they rusted.

Anodising won't help with electrolytic corrosion, so I'm guessing weight was the thing. Remember: some drivers machined the chassis in an effort to further remove weight, and then there were any number of carbon fibre/honeycomb sandwich chassis to take it even further.

I don't think manufacturers of RC cars are concerned with galvanic or electrolytic corrosion, but anodising will help as it breaks the circuit due to it being non conductive.

I think you're right though, weight would have been the main reason.

[racingdwarf]

Hell yer, all about the weight! I can remember gold tubs looking like swiss cheese people would be drilling holes,some quite large everywhere to reduce weight. If I can find up some of my 80's mags there were some black and white photos of some of the top boys cars drilled

[gomachv]

Keep in mind to that the screws are aircraft 100* where typical screws especially of the day were 82*. If they had spec'd the chassis for 82* and used steel screws, the taper would have run deep into the nylon parts. Nowadays stainless 100* screws are no problem, but in the 80's not so much

[Welshy40]

I replaced mine in my rc10 and yz10 with stainless steel allen key screws,had to cut them down but since then never had an issue having to replace the screws due to the screw section wearing out.