Sworkz S104 Evo Thread

[s22jgs]

So these have been selling like hot cakes. Got mine all ready to roll and have to say it's a superb bit of kit.

Get your pics and any questions posted in here

http://www.sjgs.co/photos/sworkzs104evo/1.jpg

http://www.sjgs.co/photos/sworkzs104evo/2.jpg

http://www.sjgs.co/photos/sworkzs104evo/5.jpg

[s22jgs]

This is not something that is required, however, with the high grip tracks in the UK, this may be something you might find useful if running on carpet or astro.

I have removed 3mm from the rear side of the rear arms. It increases the available wheelbase from 275-278 up to 275-281. As a point of reference, the Xray XB4 is 279-281, so you can see how much adjustability this gives you for different surfaces.

Pictures below, any questions just ask :thumbsup:

http://www.sjgs.co/photos/sworkzs104evo/3.jpg

http://www.sjgs.co/photos/sworkzs104evo/4.jpg

[nitro_head]

Wot wing is that your running. ..Steve

[s22jgs]

Wot wing is that your running. ..Steve

A Yokomo one. It came with the YZ2. I would normally go for one of the LMR wings, but due to the low wing mount, this seems to be a good fit with the raised section over the wheels.

[hardijs]

hi,
can this one be competitive with b-max4 on small-tight high grip carpet track?

have been decided to go with b-max, but this thing realy looks good...

what option parts is necessary for this kit to be good on carpet?
I heard that kit springs are to soft...is it any other mods necessary?

[Stickygeko]

Cheers for the pics Steve, ive been chatting to pete about one.

are you at bury tomorrow,would be nice to get a close up of one. Hoping chris Elsworthy has his running

as one of the guys before said, be good to see them up against the bmax

[Chris Elworthy]

Not racing tomorrow mate as I'm at a wedding darn sarff. Will get it built this week then begin testing. Anybody running the new 104 evo who needs advice let me know as I would be happy to share/discuss.


Chris


Team SWorkz UK/Answer RC

[s22jgs]

hi,
can this one be competitive with b-max4 on small-tight high grip carpet track?

have been decided to go with b-max, but this thing realy looks good...

what option parts is necessary for this kit to be good on carpet?
I heard that kit springs are to soft...is it any other mods necessary?

Yes!

By the new design features the car should be better than the previous version on high grip. And even more so if you increase the wheelbase like i have.

On low grip you have i think the shortest wheelbase available on the 10th racing market, so nothing is going to come close on a really tight twisty track.

Some guys in Aus have already done a comparison between the S104 Evo and the BMAX 4 iii.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHhSG6gZz1k

[s22jgs]

Cheers for the pics Steve, ive been chatting to pete about one.

are you at bury tomorrow,would be nice to get a close up of one. Hoping chris Elsworthy has his running

as one of the guys before said, be good to see them up against the bmax


Er nope im down South mate :p

As Chris said though, just ask if any questions about the car etc.

Off to Herts now to pit for the Sworkz nitro boys

[Welshy40]

Steve,

Interesting mod, would that be worth doing on my current runner? Also interested to know if the motor mount would fit my currebt runner.

[Stickygeko]

How easy is it to whip out the diffs?

[s22jgs]

Steve,

Interesting mod, would that be worth doing on my current runner? Also interested to know if the motor mount would fit my currebt runner.

Hi James

Probably not a bad idea to try. you need to think about lining the shocks up though. The new car angles the shocks forward, so moving the bottom arms backwards actually brings them in line with the standoffs. I cant remember what the old car is like.

The motor mount may fit, you can run a slipper with it, so the spacing should be the same. You would need the other centre bulkhead peice though as the diff sits about 7mm lower on the new car.

[s22jgs]

How easy is it to whip out the diffs?

4 screws pretty much. The front of the gearbox case just comes away.

[Stickygeko]

have you had chance to run it yet? think im getting my lad one this week off Pete

[s22jgs]

i gave it a run in the astro yesterday at Herts.

Seems very good. Puts power down really well, very stable and loads of steering.

[Stickygeko]

My lad loves lots of steering so will be happy with that

How are the arms on it? any breakages?

[Chris Elworthy]

Began my build last night and must say the quality of the plastics and machining are as good as I have come accross.

Experienced a little bind in the drivetrain once the diffs were installed which I found to be caused by the screws on the gear diffs not being wound down super tight. In the past with other cars I have only had the 4 screws in the diff snug to avoid cross threading the plastics on the other diff half so tried that approach on the Evo to begin with. This caused my bind as the diffs are a very precise fit in the gearboxes so make sure the screws are done down tight when building.. The plastics on this car I'm sure will take the extra pressure.

Other than that the car has built superb so far.


Chris

[s22jgs]

My lad loves lots of steering so will be happy with that

How are the arms on it? any breakages?

You will be going some to break the plastics

[Stickygeko]

put some pics up when your done chris :)

what configuration have you built it in ?

What electrics are you going to be running

[Welshy40]

Hi James

Probably not a bad idea to try. you need to think about lining the shocks up though. The new car angles the shocks forward, so moving the bottom arms backwards actually brings them in line with the standoffs. I cant remember what the old car is like.

The motor mount may fit, you can run a slipper with it, so the spacing should be the same. You would need the other centre bulkhead peice though as the diff sits about 7mm lower on the new car.

Ok, wishbone mods pretty simple as the shock mount can be modified. Motor mount will hold off on until I can see it, as there is always a way of making it work.

[Chris Elworthy]

I've only got as far as building the front and rear end so far so still have a little way to go yet. As Steve says you will have to hit things pretty hard to break the wishbone on this car, there is plenty of beef around the inner hingepin. To be honest since I returned to racing 3 years ago I haven't broken a wishbone on any car, front bulkheads seem to be the weak spot of most modern car's but time will tell with the Evo.

I will be running Absima electronics as Answer do not offer any 10th options at the moment and will be running exclusively in shorty config as it gives the best overall weight distribution.

I have plans fairly soon to get an aluminium chassis made with 25degrees of kick up built in to create a proper forward motor 2wd car for high grip. To me it seems like it will be a fairly simple task to achieve by removing the forward drive shaft, the front drive shaft then remove the front diff and add weight into the front gearbox to keep some forward weight bias.

In shorty configuration the Evo mirrors the electronics layout of the Team C TM2v2 which is the best 2wd I've driven.

Time will tell,


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Cheers Chris,

We've about 6 pairs of saddles that we use in the B5m, so was thinking of building in that config... be nice to have 1 one way and 1 the other to test against each other :)

I have an absima cts10, thinking of getting another to put in the 4wd - just unsure what motor to use

[Chris Elworthy]

The Absima Speedo's are great.. I actually have one for sale at the minute that has only been run for one meeting. If all you have is saddles simply run saddles. One of the main issues for me of the saddle config is the lack of space for mounting your electronics. I use Absima motors also as they have been faultless but these days most motors are good enough. The HPI range are very good for the money.


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Hi chris have you finished the build yet?

not sure I anyone else knows but i received a suprise email off a local fast driver saying he's getting an evo shortly and offered help with setup, that 4 locals that I know of that will have an evo come October

[s22jgs]

Hi chris have you finished the build yet?

not sure I anyone else knows but i received a suprise email off a local fast driver saying he's getting an evo shortly and offered help with setup, that 4 locals that I know of that will have an evo come October

I would imagine a fair chunk of Answer RC drivers will be getting them.

Mine had its first proper run on Tuesday night at maritime racing. Was off the pace but got quicker every run. Finished 4th in the A which I'm pretty happy with given the level of competition at maritime.

The car is super strong and very responsive.

[Stickygeko]

How come it was off the pace? its carpet at maritime isn't it?

[s22jgs]

How come it was off the pace? its carpet at maritime isn't it?

No new car is gonna be on pace with national F2 drivers on its first run lol. Yes carpet

[Chris Elworthy]

Finally finished the build of mine today and intend giving it it's first run next Sunday at Bury.

I'm not totally happy with my shocks at the minute they feel as if they have a bit too much pressure when built so feel a bit springy on the bench. I've built them standard with 500/350 oils and fitted AE springs as I like they way they perform.
What oils have you built with Steve? My front end feels very soft and the car bottoms out quite easily when dropped.



Chris

[moggers]

Just putting the final touches to the build and will be running it at TORCH tomorrow for it's first outing :thumbsup:

So far very impressed with build quality, tolerances extremely good and no major issues putting this together.

Chris...... I know what you mean about the shocks. I felt the same when initially building them. I've upped the wt front/rear to 600/400. I'm also running AE springs but wasn't happy with the fitment around the kit shock collars. I can confirm AE collars fit perfectly :thumbsup:

Following tomorrow's first shakedown, I'll share our findings. Very impressed so far :D

Cheers,
Jason

SWORKz | Model Cars Reading | MB Models

[Stickygeko]

thanks for the updates guys.

be nice to see them with the bodyshells on,

looks like everyone has gone shorty setup.

been looking and theres also a thread on rctech for the evo

[s22jgs]

Finally finished the build of mine today and intend giving it it's first run next Sunday at Bury.

I'm not totally happy with my shocks at the minute they feel as if they have a bit too much pressure when built so feel a bit springy on the bench. I've built them standard with 500/350 oils and fitted AE springs as I like they way they perform.
What oils have you built with Steve? My front end feels very soft and the car bottoms out quite easily when dropped.



Chris

Hey Chris

I found that the kit shafts had far too much bite on the orings. I'll send you a pm.

[Chris Elworthy]

How d

[Chris Elworthy]

Anybody run their car's this weekend? How did you find them?




Chris

[hardijs]

Anybody run their car's this weekend? How did you find them?




Chris

+1 ... also waiting for some feedback how this thing performs on high grip tracks

[moggers]

First Impressions.............. Awesome! :woot:

We ran two Evo's for the first time at TORCH Sunday and for both of us, very happy with the day and the car has huge potential :thumbsup:

The track layout was changed to a more technical layout than usual for TORCH and the morning was met with a wet track due to the morning dew. Both cars in practice had loads of front end grip on the wet track. You'll never struggle with lack of front end on this car, it's got loads of front end grip to spare!

Track dried quickly for Q1 and now was the time to find out how the Evo handled high grip. Both cars had similar geometry setups, the major difference was shock oils and springs and diff oils.

Both cars still felt super soft on the shocks but put in on the track and it just handled everything you through at it. I did get grip roll when really pushing, but going up one rate on the springs solved that problem without needing to change anything else. With the small changes we both were making, the cars reacted to change very well and we understand each change after running.

We TQ'd and fastest lap with one of the cars and mine P4. Unfortunately I had to leave before the finals and couldn't contend the final but we had a P2 in the final. :thumbsup:

The Evo is built to last, we had nothing break, nothing rattled itself loose and no faults or failures.

For a new car, first outing with no previous setup's to guide us, we expected a few teething issues to overcome but honestly, both cars ran brilliantly and we are both very impressed :thumbsup:

We've still got plenty to work on, for me it'll be the shocks. They are very good quality but as part of building them, I drilled out the pistons to large holes and that is a mistake I wouldn't recommend trying to copy other popular shock setups from other manufactures, you will find it feeling too soft. Keep with the 1.5mm pistons :) and work around these. Only other item we'll check is the centre diff. One of the cars leaked oil, but the other car was much better so we'll check if it was a build issue. The diffs use a single o-ring for the outdrives, so maybe this had an issue on one of the diffs. Something simple to rectify.

For both of us, we've never ran the older car, so first time running SWORKz and the Evo. We learnt a lot, both build and racing. We'll apply a few more ideas for this weekend's Summer Series round at TORCH and hopefully make further improvements as we learn the car.

___________________________
MB Models | Model Cars Reading

[Chris Elworthy]

Thanks Moggers for the detailed report.

An issue I have heard about with this car is too much rear weight transfer causing the car to squat heavily on power then transfer forward aggressively off power, you don't mention anything of the sort so it could simply be an oil/spring issue I'm hoping. I'm going to be running my car for the first time next weekend so will share my findings as and when.

Could you share what springs and oils you found worked for you? From what I'm reading I'm thinking people will need a slightly heavier oil setup on this car especially in the rear. Those look like AE springs also if I'm not mistaken?

Many people are finding that their shocks suffer from a lot of stiction when built out of the box, did you find this also? I believe this is being fed back to Sworkz so hopefully future kits will be improved. The stiction has been put down to the Orings and shock shafts causing a little bind but could be isolated cases in some kits not all. A tip by Steve on here is to run Kyosho Orings and shock shafts from the RB6 and this eliminates the issue resulting in a more consistent shock package... I shall be trying this mod myself.
Another thing that concerns me but not all I may add is the amount of play where the top of the shocks mount to the shock mounts. There is a fair bit of slop before the suspension stroke kicks in which I'm not totally happy with. It appears as though three should be a small sleeve over the shock mount for the shock to pivot on similar to other brands such as Schumacher but there isn't. It's not the most elegant solution but I've wrapped a piece of duck tape (an exact width of tape) around each mount and it's removed the slop, cushioned the shock and still allows the shock to pivot on the mount properly. Just a small tip if it concerns anybody.

If you could share your diff setup also that would be greatly received by all also I'm sure.


Chris

[s22jgs]

the car does transfer weight F-R and R-F quite freely, as did the previous car.

biggest thing you can probably do is change the centre diff oil. I am running 500k, and will be trying 1mil. It definately does not squat as much on power with the thicker oil.

Beyond that, ad some anti squat at the rear, and anti dive at the front.

currenly running 10k in front diff and 8k in rear, but they feel very free still..i have some other things to work on Tomorrow, but after that i might try 20 and 15

[moggers]

I'll try and post up a setup later, but a couple of things I ran Sunday;

Shocked built with kit shock shafts, but I did replace with O-Rings with AE X-Rings. No issues experienced and no leaks at all. Pistons drilled 1.6F and 1.7R but makes it way too soft. I'd keep with kit pistons (1.5x2) which I'll put back in for this weekend.
Springs are AE. Red fronts and started with Black rear's but changed to Green on rear once grip came up.

Ran 20k front diff oil and 10k rear. Centre was 500k. We'll be testing 1mill this week.
I ran small amount of anti-squat on the rear with high roll centres F&R. Didn't find major issues with it squatting that much, but will continue to try other settings.

Honestly, didn't find any issues with building the shocks, so maybe the AE O-Rings helped straight off. My mistake drilling the pistons out, which I'll rectify this week.

This week I may try slightly lighter diff oils, especially in the front, all depends on weather conditions next week.

Happy to help and share where I can,

Cheers,
Jason

___________________________
Model Cars Reading | MB Models

[moggers]

Sorry Chris, you mention an issue with mounting the shocks. The kit comes with a plastic collar that sits inside the shock cap and eliminates any slop. It's a plastic part on the SW-2501807 parts set. From what you've explained, sounds like you've missed this? We've had no issues mounting the shocks on the shock mounts.

Cheers,
Jason

[Chris Elworthy]

I've obviously missed the collars in the manual, I took another look but couldn't see so thanks for clearing that up, I did think it seemed odd tbh.

Thanks for the setup advice. I've only got the 100,000 kit diff oil for the centre at the minute so it appears I should pick some thicker ones up as it's on the thin side.


Chris

[s22jgs]

i think 1.7 on the rear pistons is fine, possibly depending on where you are running the shocks.

1.6 on the front does seem a little soft, but handles well.

Im currently running much harder springs, Yatabe purple on the front and yatabe orange on the rear

[Bigphilly]

Hi, Thought I would join in with the setup chat. I also ran my Evo at Torch Sunday with TQ and fastest lap. Car was fantastic and reacts well to setup changes. I ran 1.6 2 hole pistons f&R with 32.5 oils and AE springs.
I used to race a ZX6 so followed a similar setup in roll centers and shock positions.
I love a pointy car and this has plenty. Hopefully try even more setups this weekend. Was running 500k but going for 1million in the center diff.

[Stickygeko]

So do you all run shorty setup?

[hardijs]

What height for cars you are runing?
Do you use any option parts? except springs

[s22jgs]

U mean ride height?

17 to 19 ish indoors. 19 to 22 ish outdoors depending on the surface

[s22jgs]

So do you all run shorty setup?

Yup. I think you have to now to stay truly competitive. All other manufacturers have gone shorty.

[s22jgs]

Hi, Thought I would join in with the setup chat. I also ran my Evo at Torch Sunday with TQ and fastest lap. Car was fantastic and reacts well to setup changes. I ran 1.6 2 hole pistons f&R with 32.5 oils and AE springs.
I used to race a ZX6 so followed a similar setup in roll centers and shock positions.
I love a pointy car and this has plenty. Hopefully try even more setups this weekend. Was running 500k but going for 1million in the center diff.

Wow I can see why muggers thought 1.6 was too soft with 32.5wt in there.

I have 50wt with 1.6 at the moment and it's still a tad soft for high grip. I think I'll be running 60w tomorrow night

[hardijs]

U mean ride height?

17 to 19 ish indoors. 19 to 22 ish outdoors depending on the surface

yes :) I meant ride height.
Thank you!

[s22jgs]

So here we go, second night with the car, starting to understand it a bit now.
after 2 good runs in Q1 and Q2 where the transponder missed 2 laps in each, i held back for a clean run in Q3 and put it 3rd on the grid.

Had pace in the final to push for the win but made a silly mistake and blew the chance. Here is my final setup. Car was very stable and responsive. No grip roll or issues. Probably not far off what will become my base carpet setup now.

http://www.sjgs.co/setups/s104_20150922_maritime.png

[hardijs]

So here we go, second night with the car, starting to understand it a bit now.
after 2 good runs in Q1 and Q2 where the transponder missed 2 laps in each, i held back for a clean run in Q3 and put it 3rd on the grid.

Had pace in the final to push for the win but made a silly mistake and blew the chance. Here is my final setup. Car was very stable and responsive. No grip roll or issues. Probably not far off what will become my base carpet setup now.

http://www.sjgs.co/setups/s104_20150922_maritime.png

Thank you Steve for the first setup aviliable here!

1.6x2 and 1.7x2 pistons you got from stock ones, just drilled biger holes, right?

Is it this track you are runing this setup? http://www.maritimeracing.info/?page_id=128 ?

Thank`s!

[s22jgs]

Thank you Steve for the first setup aviliable here!

1.6x2 and 1.7x2 pistons you got from stock ones, just drilled biger holes, right?

could you please show also your track layout pictures, so to understand how close it could be for our carpet track.

Thank`s!

i dont have any pictures of track. Its racing carpet laid over a wooden floor though. with a couple of small sections of shiny wood.

1.6 pistons in the front are a little soft, not enough pack, so will be going back to 1.5 once they arrive with Answer RC

[hardijs]

i dont have any pictures of track. Its racing carpet laid over a wooden floor though. with a couple of small sections of shiny wood.

1.6 pistons in the front are a little soft, not enough pack, so will be going back to 1.5 once they arrive with Answer RC

Thank`s! it sound very close as our track is :) small, tight, with several small edgy ramps.
On Friday my EVO will arrive, so will start with similar setup as yours.

[Stickygeko]

There's a guy on youtube who's just done a few videos of the 104 evo on youtube called randy slagle he talks about the differenvessel between the evo and ek1, also mentioned on the build that the manual shows the installation of the diff but advises it's wrong and should be flipped before install... anyone else notice that? just don't want to end up building it the wrong way when it comes

[s22jgs]

There's a guy on youtube who's just done a few videos of the 104 evo on youtube called randy slagle he talks about the differenvessel between the evo and ek1, also mentioned on the build that the manual shows the installation of the diff but advises it's wrong and should be flipped before install... anyone else notice that? just don't want to end up building it the wrong way when it comes

ignore the differences - its a much better car thats all that matters.

manual shows diffs for saddle config rather than shorty.

[Chris Elworthy]

I've built my car now but not yet put any power though it. I've installed my diffs as per the manual so am I expecting to be going in reverse??

Has anybody tried the 1million centre diff oil yet? I've built mine with the stuff, tricky stuff to use as it's so thick!


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Looking forward to seeing you run it on Sunday at bury chris

[Chris Elworthy]

Yeah I'm looking forward to it too. I've been checking over the car this week and would say it's just about ready to rock.

Chris

[Stickygeko]

have you painted the body yet

[janisdaubergs]

I'm interested this car in comparison with others, maybe after first impressions you guys can post some comparisons with cars you drove before?
Interested brands:
this vs k1 vs bmax vs 22-4 vs xray on tight carpet track.

[s22jgs]

I'm interested this car in comparison with others, maybe after first impressions you guys can post some comparisons with cars you drove before?
Interested brands:
this vs k1 vs bmax vs 22-4 vs xray on tight carpet track.


All are very different cars and comparing them is very difficult when they suit different peoples driving styles.

Having driven all the cars you list, i would say the S104 Evo has the aggression of the bmax 4 iii and xray, but with the movement of the k1. by that i mean it has a lot of weight transfer FR and LR. a bit like the D413 does.

it is going to get some good results very soon

[Chris Elworthy]

Are people having the car run in reverse when diffs are installed as per the manual? I and a few others have had this issue. The manual will need updating if it's wrong?


Chris

[s22jgs]

its not wrong. It just not been updated to allow for shorty config.
When changing between shorty and saddle you need to flip the diffs. Dont run motor in reverse

[Chris Elworthy]

Cheers for that Steve.

[Stickygeko]

Chris was flying at bury today... i did take a video ill upload shortly

[Chris Elworthy]

Just got back from my S104 Evo's maiden voyage and what a machine this car really is!! TQ'd and won all 3 A-Mains the car was superb!

Following Steve's advice I ran Kyosho shock shafts and O-rings which made the shock package much more consistent and predictable. Following the 4wd locals as I haven't raced a 4wd car before I went for Yellow LP cut staggers on the front but had problems getting the front of the car above 18mm ride height when using AE Springs. I managed to cure this problem by taking off the shock collar and fitting upside down, this gave me the extra 3-4mm I was looking for. It's not an ideal case but it does work and only will be an issue if running Low Profile tyres on the front.
Car felt a little docile on power to begin with but after round 2 of qualifying it hit me that the servo saver wasn't tightened down all the way making the steering a little soft. When tightened the car became a whole different animal and felt far more direct and quick.

This car is just so easy to drive fast! I've never driven a car that just doesn't want to grip roll however much you abuse the throttle and just inspires confidence it really is excellent!

My car is built stock in terms of roll centres and hinge pin positions front and rear.
I have the front shocks on the middle hole tower/outer wishbone and second inner on tower and inner on arm on the rear.

600cst oil in the front shocks with AE purple spring
400cst oil in rear with AE green spring.

20mm ride height

Diffs: 15k front/1million centre/7k rear



Chris

[s22jgs]

Just got back from my S104 Evo's maiden voyage and what a machine this car really is!! TQ'd and won all 3 A-Mains the car was superb!

Following Steve's advice I ran Kyosho shock shafts and O-rings which made the shock package much more consistent and predictable. Following the 4wd locals as I haven't raced a 4wd car before I went for Yellow LP cut staggers on the front but had problems getting the front of the car above 18mm ride height when using AE Springs. I managed to cure this problem by taking off the shock collar and fitting upside down, this gave me the extra 3-4mm I was looking for. It's not an ideal case but it does work and only will be an issue if running Low Profile tyres on the front.
Car felt a little docile on power to begin with but after round 2 of qualifying it hit me that the servo saver wasn't tightened down all the way making the steering a little soft. When tightened the car became a whole different animal and felt far more direct and quick.

This car is just so easy to drive fast! I've never driven a car that just doesn't want to grip roll however much you abuse the throttle and just inspires confidence it really is excellent!

My car is built stock in terms of roll centres and hinge pin positions front and rear.
I have the front shocks on the middle hole tower/outer wishbone and second inner on tower and inner on arm on the rear.

600cst oil in the front shocks with AE purple spring
400cst oil in rear with AE green spring.

20mm ride height

Diffs: 15k front/1million centre/7k rear



Chris

Awesome. Try thicker front and rear diffs it's even better

[s22jgs]

Chris was flying at bury today... i did take a video ill upload shortly

Wahey we love a good video

[Chris Elworthy]

Get the vid up mate!! Hope it's one of the finals when the car was really good! Ha!

[Chris Elworthy]

Bury tend to have plenty of tight technical corners so a car that rotates quickly tends to be quicker hence the diff oil choices but will give it a go.

A pointy car tends to be a quick car round there


Chris

[s22jgs]

Bury tend to have plenty of tight technical corners so a car that rotates quickly tends to be quicker hence the diff oil choices but will give it a go.

A pointy car tends to be a quick car round there


Chris

I'm running 20 and 15 in mine. Still feels lighter than 10 does in most other cars

[s22jgs]

Where's this video lol

[Chris Elworthy]

He couldn't post here so sent me the link privately.

If you go on YouTube and enter Paul's username StickyGeko you will find the vids.
One vid is from early on when the ride height on the front was far too low so was slapping bumps, . The other is from later in the day when the car was getting dialled in and shows a clean run.. This one should appear first


Chris

[s22jgs]

Another night with the S104 last night.
Limited the experimentation last night and just tried to spend some more time with the car.

I did go a further 2mm longer on the wheelbase though which was a vast improvement. Now running at 280mm

Got 1st round TQ, but Mr Rand stole it away from me in Q2 leaving me A2, where i also finished.

I did find though that the Kyosho shaft/oring shock mod, while it feel great, leaks air and i was gaining upto 50% rebound per run on the front shocks. Didnt seem to affect the lap times too much, but it did mean the cars feel changed throughout the run.

Will now be experimenting with AE x-rings and the RDRP white orings.

I would however definately recommend taking 3mm off the rear arms as the extra wheelbase really helps stabalise the car on fast sweeping and on power corners.

[janisdaubergs]

Why one should use different cars shock shafts and xrings/orings?
Is something wrong with kit ones? :o

[s22jgs]

Why one should use different cars shock shafts and xrings/orings?
Is something wrong with kit ones? :o

all info is in this thread

[Stickygeko]

Hopefully picking a kit up later today, wont be able to build until thursday though.
I am slightly worried about shafts, I can use AE orings if need be. But id like to try the kit shafts or should i straight away go for different ones???

Im really tempted to buck the trend and build it in saddle formation too (purely because we have 6 saddle packs and zero shorties)

[s22jgs]

Hopefully picking a kit up later today, wont be able to build until thursday though.
I am slightly worried about shafts, I can use AE orings if need be. But id like to try the kit shafts or should i straight away go for different ones???

Im really tempted to buck the trend and build it in saddle formation too (purely because we have 6 saddle packs and zero shorties)

Nothing to be worries about. just remove the oring spacer, and dont fully tighten the bottom cap for now.

I am going to try a few other options this week.

Once i am completely happy i will repost my solution. Sworkz are looking into the binding though so they will be releasing a proper fix

[hardijs]

Hopefully picking a kit up later today, wont be able to build until thursday though.
I am slightly worried about shafts, I can use AE orings if need be. But id like to try the kit shafts or should i straight away go for different ones???

Im really tempted to buck the trend and build it in saddle formation too (purely because we have 6 saddle packs and zero shorties)

I`m building mines with the stock parts, as I havent now aviliable AE orings or shafts, neither Kyosho, but car must be ready for Sunday when it will be first practice day for upcoming indoor season.
So will build mines with the parts which come at the box, only AE springs I hope to receive on Friday...
Later will give feedback how EVO performed at our track ;)

[Stickygeko]

Really pleased to say we picked the last kit Answer RC had in, seems they've flown out. looking forward to the build but due to work I can't start till tomorrow night

[s22jgs]

2 small changes last night. 2mm extra on the wheelbase, and also the use of active caster. Im a little undecided on the caster, but it certainly made the car easy to drive.

http://www.sjgs.co/setups/s104_20150929_maritime.png

[Stickygeko]

Is anyone using a chassis protection? If so where did you get it. thanks

[s22jgs]

nope, no one makes one for it to my knowledge

[moggers]

We use a skin from JConcepts. I just drew around the chassis and cut out. It's slightly thicker than most skins and works well. Link below, but unfortunately out of stock.

http://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=7453&virtuemart_category_id=512

Another option could be the AE version, link below. I've not used this one and you may need to check measurements first if it will fit, but same principle.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/ft-chassis-protective-sheet.html

Cheers,
Jase

[Stickygeko]

Brill thanks mogs

gutted the JC one isnt in stock

[Ashalak]

Just thought I'd give me opinion on the shocks binding.. I've played around a lot with different O-Rings in the process of building mine up, and I came to the conclusion that there is nothing wrong with the kit O-Rings or Shock Shafts for that matter. The issue of the shocks binding is due to the O-Ring and Spacer proportions within the shock body, removing the middle shim between the two O-Ring's isn't an option unless you want to risk the shocks leaking. I simply ended up sanding 0.2mm off of the middle spacer in order to reduce stiction of the O-Rings once the retaining nut is cranked down. This then provides perfectly free action which should potentially be leak free! My shocks certainly feel like butter now, and all you need is about 5 minutes, some fine sand paper on a flat surface and a decent sent of digital calipers :)

If your worried about sacrificing the kit delrin washers in case you remove too much material, don't forget that you get the molded washers on a plastic molding provided with your kit, I sanded these one's down to keep the original delrin washers unmodified :)

[s22jgs]

Just thought I'd give me opinion on the shocks binding.. I've played around a lot with different O-Rings in the process of building mine up, and I came to the conclusion that there is nothing wrong with the kit O-Rings or Shock Shafts for that matter. The issue of the shocks binding is due to the O-Ring and Spacer proportions within the shock body, removing the middle shim between the two O-Ring's isn't an option unless you want to risk the shocks leaking. I simply ended up sanding 0.2mm off of the middle spacer in order to reduce stiction of the O-Rings once the retaining nut is cranked down. This then provides perfectly free action which should potentially be leak free! My shocks certainly feel like butter now, and all you need is about 5 minutes, some fine sand paper on a flat surface and a decent sent of digital calipers :)

If your worried about sacrificing the kit delrin washers in case you remove too much material, don't forget that you get the molded washers on a plastic molding provided with your kit, I sanded these one's down to keep the original delrin washers unmodified :)

It was never said that there is a problem as such with them. Just that there was binding. I have now chosen to run the kit shaft, with AE x rings, kit spacer, and the avid/AE shock bottoms. Testing last night felt awesome and no leeks or air have seeped out or in over night. Assuming this is still the case when I get home tonight this will be my long term fix.

I have tried the slimmer spacer, but that is not a viable thing when you are trackside doing a rebuild and drop one. You then waste time trying to find sandpaper to do another etc.

The ae x rings are by far the best feel I've found yet. Better than the kyosho mod I first tried and have been running. Plus they are perfect width for the body - better than the kit orings even. Coupled with the correct shock bottom for them they seem to be spot on and feel the best of anything I've tried so far. And no modifications of parts required.

The other added bonus is if you use the avid collars and bottoms, they match the Ali hinge pin holders. Black with silver edging.

[Stickygeko]

do the AE orings not work with the kit shock bottoms?

Im buiding my sons evo tomorrow and want to get it built correctly

Also is everyone running AE springs? are they the 4wd set (dont mean to sound stupid but assuming is wrong lol been bitten too many times assuming one thing or another)

[moggers]

I agree with Steve, nothing wrong with the shocks at all. For me I always replace kit Orings regardless of kit. I've done it with AE cars, Yokomo etc. The Evo was no different, installing AE Xrings from the start and had no issues since. My current 2wd is a B5M so hence trying AE Xrings first :)

Pretty much any Big Bore springs will fit. I use AE again just because my previous car was AE, but I've got Yoke and Kyosho springs to try one day.
For me currently, AE Green Rear and Red fronts. I've not changed the fronts at all yet, but sometimes drop to Black Rears depending on oils.

Last weekend I did try an extreme change to 700cst Front oil and 600cst Rear, but although the car was still fantastic, will drop this down by 100cst both F&R next time as I prefer a little softer on our astro track.

As Chris and Steve have already mentioned, the car is awesome :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Jase

[Stickygeko]

Cheers moggers,

we have 2 b5ms, i think ive a set of AE orings too. Mark Redmond has just built his and will be running at our club tonight, I think hes gone softer on the shock oil but harder springs (think yatabe)

im flapping about what oils to use all round as no1 (at least i think no1) has gone with full kit setup.

I want to get it all setup and ready for chadderton on the 11th
(is anyone doing chadderton? please share the setup youll be using, also what tyres will you be using?)

thanks

[s22jgs]

Cheers moggers,

we have 2 b5ms, i think ive a set of AE orings too. Mark Redmond has just built his and will be running at our club tonight, I think hes gone softer on the shock oil but harder springs (think yatabe)

im flapping about what oils to use all round as no1 (at least i think no1) has gone with full kit setup.

I want to get it all setup and ready for chadderton on the 11th
(is anyone doing chadderton? please share the setup youll be using, also what tyres will you be using?)

thanks


I dont know how thick AE standard o-rings are im afraid. It is the low friction X-Rings i am using. I tried them with the kit shock bottom and didnt like it, was a bit too compressed for my liking. with the AE (Avid) shock bottoms they are perfect.

I am waiting to check them tonight for air, but i am expecting this to be the route i will suggest if asked about it.

With regards springs, i didnt try the kit ones, but they seemed ok if a little soft. Yatabe springs didnt feel good on this car. I loved them on the YZ2 and the Xray XB4, but the S104 is much much better on AE springs.

AE springs fit fine, but overhang the collars very slightly. I am running the Avid collars which fit the sworkz body perfectly.

[Chris Elworthy]

As this car hasbt been raced at Chadderton there is no 'setup' yet as such.

My advice would be to build the car just as it shows it in the manual for now but get the shocks and diffs in the ballpark. As you know following Steve's advice I've gone down the Kyosho shaft and ORing route and found the car to be good. Even if another brand of ORing may be better until I feel it's slowing me down I will be sticking.

Don't worry about Setup for now Paul just make sure the car is built to the best of your capabilities and that everything moves freely. I found that the standard setup creates a fairly neutral feeling car so will be in the ballpark. I would still go with 600cst oil up front with 400 in the rear to begin with. I've been running lighter diff oils than most but would poss increase the rear diff oil on slippy to keep the rear end more planted on power.

At Chadderton you will want Schumacher yellow minipins front and rear but I suggest scrubbing them in by driving the car on Tarmac for a minute or so before the meeting as they are rubbish until the contact patch is increased.

There is no such thing as a magic setup in RC, run the car and make small changes one at a time. No setup will ever outdo practice and a confidence in your car.

Chris

[Ashalak]

It was never said that there is a problem as such with them. Just that there was binding. I have now chosen to run the kit shaft, with AE x rings, kit spacer, and the avid/AE shock bottoms. Testing last night felt awesome and no leeks or air have seeped out or in over night. Assuming this is still the case when I get home tonight this will be my long term fix.

I have tried the slimmer spacer, but that is not a viable thing when you are trackside doing a rebuild and drop one. You then waste time trying to find sandpaper to do another etc..

It's good to know about the compatibility with AE shock parts, especially the spring collars because the stock one's are a little sloppy with AE springs. I can't say I agree with your logic about changing out o-rings and shock bottoms simply because 'You might drop one', how does this make it worth spending another £23 on parts which you otherwise don't need?! Although having said that if you did want the bling, then that's fair enough! At the end of the day the lower part of the shock isn't something you'd ever typically disassemble at the track, assuming your shocks are built correctly and properly maintained that is. If you really are that clumsy though just have a few spare one's done in advance, after all you do get 4x extra in the kit!

I'm just trying to reassure people who've bought the kit, or who are thinking about buying the kit that they don't NEED to go out and blow £23 on parts to make what they have work, the shocks will function fine with the kit o-rings and simply sanding the middle spacer from 1.0mm to 0.8mm.

[s22jgs]

It's good to know about the compatibility with AE shock parts, especially the spring collars because the stock one's are a little sloppy with AE springs. I can't say I agree with your logic about changing out o-rings and shock bottoms simply because 'You might drop one', how does this make it worth spending another £23 on parts which you otherwise don't need?! Although having said that if you did want the bling, then that's fair enough! At the end of the day the lower part of the shock isn't something you'd ever typically disassemble at the track, assuming your shocks are built correctly and properly maintained that is. If you really are that clumsy though just have a few spare one's done in advance, after all you do get 4x extra in the kit!

I'm just trying to reassure people who've bought the kit, or who are thinking about buying the kit that they don't NEED to go out and blow £23 on parts to make what they have work, the shocks will function fine with the kit o-rings and simply sanding the middle spacer from 1.0mm to 0.8mm.

My reason for changing the orings and shock bottoms is because that's what I have found to give the best shock. Not because I might drop a spacer. I said the spacer sanding wasn't a solution for me. If I bend a shaft then I rebuild the whole thing. I personally don't want to have to think about having spacers sanded down.

The kit shocks are fine. They are actually very smooth, but there is binding present which affects the rebound.

People don't have to go and buy anything. They will use whatever solution they want. All I have said is that I've now tried everything I can think of and the best feel comes from the ae x rings with the avid shock bottoms, with all other parts being kit. In all honesty they feel better than AE or yz2 shocks in this configuration.

[Stickygeko]

changing direction, should we have a show us your evo thread, I'd like to see all your car's :) building haydens tomorrow and need to choose a colour way for the car

[mark-rc]

Hi everyone, I've been racing the 8th Nitro Sworkz EVO 2 this year and I have been a Team Driver for Pete at Answer-rc ever since Pete started Answer-RC. After a chat with Pete I will now be running the Sworkz 10th electric cars along side my Nitro. I think the Quality of the cars are as good as anything else out there, and they are a company who is constantly looking to improve, with an already top standard of quality, but also in race performance!

This weekend I ran the S104 EVO for the first time indoors on high grip carpet. The clubs I raced at use Foam Tyres with Additive, so the grip level is very high!

First time on track with it, and Wow! this car accelerates hard! real hard! I started with 1 million weight in the center diff, but this gave way to much drive. So swapped the diff out for 300K, it was now a lot easier to put the power down, but still 'very' punchy! The car has steering everywhere! Slow, Mid and high speed steering! The Evo also likes the transfer weight front to rear a lot especially on power, causing the car to lift the front corner wheel and squat down on the opposite rear wheel, if you had any steering input while on power. It jumps and lands extremely well, and felt safe and predictable enough through speed bumps. I set my fastest PB time on the current track layout, but I just felt with more setup work and time, I know there is a lot more to come from the car.

Second Day/time out with the car, again on Foams and high grip carpet. This time I made a number of changes to the car, I wanted to calm the car down a little on steering, and try to get the front wheel to stop lifting and the rear squatting as much. Diff oil's I changed to Front 20k, Centre 100k, Rear 15k. Shocks 1.5 piston front & rear with 45wt front 30wt rear. Yatabe Purple springs all round. 1.5mm roll bar front and 1.6mm rear. I also cut 2mm off the back of the arms to gain a longer wheelbase. On the front upper roll centre, I ran the front insert up and the rear insert down, this helped take away some of the in corner bite. I also ran a shorter rear top link.

The car was now much easier to drive and I could push it a lot harder! It still has loads of steering and corner speed, but it never tried to grip roll. The car is still trying to Transfer it's weight, but nowhere near as much. The stiffer springs and roll bar have helped, and I think the car prefers a stiffer setup, I'm trying to find some 'Flat' pistons to try, as I think the tapered pistons may be why the weight shifts so fast. In the next few weeks I will be running it on mixed carpet and slippy floor with rubber tyres, so will up date my findings! Please drop me a PM if you have an questions :thumbsup:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/Mobile%20Uploads/20151005_180749_zpsuxxurge3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/Mobile%20Uploads/20151001_180055_zpslaiwulsv.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/Mobile%20Uploads/20151001_180118_zpsmmnaa0n7.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/mark-rc/Mobile%20Uploads/20151005_180958_zpsguptqvdr.jpg

[s22jgs]

Cool interesting to see you also find the longer wheelbase better. For high grip, or carpet and astro in general I think it is a must. The car is much better and squats down much less under power.

[hardijs]

Last weekend it was first time on track with my S104 evo.
Our track is small tight 100% carpet track, with small edgy ramps.
Build the car full stock, except springs I put AE hard ones.
At shocks removed plactic spacer between o-rings to make shocks more free.
Shock oils where 600cst/400cst, diff oils 20k/1M/10k
Ride height 16mm front and 17mm rear

Car was very easy to drive, I`m not a pro driver, so I managed to flip it over several times, but I have never so many times cached the car when it trys to flip over...run on two wheels for a time and then sattle it back to all four...I have seen how pro`s do it... I thought that is impossible...mega skills necessary, but now with this car I can also be like a pro :D

This firs practice day I enjoyed and just drived, not experimented with setup, but still some things where need improvements:
1. Car was a bit understeer, any ideas how to reduce it?
2. The same as others said, car squats a little to much, and it probably makes understeer...
3. Stock wing... could it be a reason for understeer, as its with high downforce.. which other wing you can advice?
4. For our track also my shock setup seemd to be a bit to stiff/hard, because on to pass small edgy rams the car feels very stiff... I plan to change oils to a bit lighter...actualy I dont know when springs and when oils must be changed to lighter or to stiffer... so here also some advice necessary :)

Above you said that longer wheel base could help to avoid squating, so some mm of rear arms are removed- do you remove those mm just at inside hinge pin, or also at outside?

[s22jgs]

This firs practice day I enjoyed and just drived, not experimented with setup, but still some things where need improvements:
1. Car was a bit understeer, any ideas how to reduce it?
2. The same as others said, car squats a little to much, and it probably makes understeer...
3. Stock wing... could it be a reason for understeer, as its with high downforce.. which other wing you can advice?
4. For our track also my shock setup seemd to be a bit to stiff/hard, because on to pass small edgy rams the car feels very stiff... I plan to change oils to a bit lighter...actualy I dont know when springs and when oils must be changed to lighter or to stiffer... so here also some advice necessary :)

Above you said that longer wheel base could help to avoid squatting, so some mm of rear arms are removed- do you remove those mm just at inside hinge pin, or also at outside?


1 - Hard to say without knowing your full setup and tyres. There are many ways to improve the steering. If you are running full kit i would start by adding some anti squat.

2 - the shorter you run the wheelbase the less weight is over the front of the car, it will squat more at the rear and also accelerate harder. By going longer wheelbase you reverse that, putting more weight forwards, squatting less and therefore more on power steering.

3 - Wing wise, the kit wing is fine, just cut it down until you have the desired downforce for your preferred feel.. I personally prefer to run a standard lexan wing.

With regards to the wheelbase mod, you want to remove from the rear of the arm only. I removed 3mm, as that is what i thought lined the shocks up best, but i see Mark has removed 2mm.

[hardijs]

1 - Hard to say without knowing your full setup and tyres. There are many ways to improve the steering. If you are running full kit i would start by adding some anti squat.

2 - the shorter you run the wheelbase the less weight is over the front of the car, it will squat more at the rear and also accelerate harder. By going longer wheelbase you reverse that, putting more weight forwards, squatting less and therefore more on power steering.

3 - Wing wise, the kit wing is fine, just cut it down until you have the desired downforce for your preferred feel.. I personally prefer to run a standard lexan wing.

With regards to the wheelbase mod, you want to remove from the rear of the arm only. I removed 3mm, as that is what i thought lined the shocks up best, but i see Mark has removed 2mm.

Tires where only thing I was tried several options - Mini pin blue and Yellow as rear ones and Mini pin blue and Wide stugger yellow as front ones in any combination it still pushed car a bit to much.

Standard lexan wing - which is it? I have sandard plastic wing :)

Abour rear arm mod- so I need to remove both at inner and at outer side of rear arm, right?

[s22jgs]

Tires where only thing I was tried several options - Mini pin blue and Yellow as rear ones and Mini pin blue and Wide stugger yellow as front ones in any combination it still pushed car a bit to much.

Standard lexan wing - which is it? I have sandard plastic wing :)

Abour rear arm mod- so I need to remove both at inner and at outer side of rear arm, right?

If running wide staggers on the front and pins on the rear you will need to remove grip from the rear. Check my setup posted the other day as these are the tyres i was running. I raised the rear hinge pin, moved the shocks and rear link.

When i said standard lexan wing, i meant any generic lexan wing. Sworkz dont make one at the moment.

Rear arm mod, sorry i miss read you original question. You only need to remove plastic from the inside hinge pin area. No need to remove anything from where the rear hub attaches.

[mark-rc]

Last weekend it was first time on track with my S104 evo.
Our track is small tight 100% carpet track, with small edgy ramps.
Build the car full stock, except springs I put AE hard ones.
At shocks removed plactic spacer between o-rings to make shocks more free.
Shock oils where 600cst/400cst, diff oils 20k/1M/10k
Ride height 16mm front and 17mm rear

Car was very easy to drive, I`m not a pro driver, so I managed to flip it over several times, but I have never so many times cached the car when it trys to flip over...run on two wheels for a time and then sattle it back to all four...I have seen how pro`s do it... I thought that is impossible...mega skills necessary, but now with this car I can also be like a pro :D

This firs practice day I enjoyed and just drived, not experimented with setup, but still some things where need improvements:
1. Car was a bit understeer, any ideas how to reduce it?
2. The same as others said, car squats a little to much, and it probably makes understeer...
3. Stock wing... could it be a reason for understeer, as its with high downforce.. which other wing you can advice?
4. For our track also my shock setup seemd to be a bit to stiff/hard, because on to pass small edgy rams the car feels very stiff... I plan to change oils to a bit lighter...actualy I dont know when springs and when oils must be changed to lighter or to stiffer... so here also some advice necessary :)

Above you said that longer wheel base could help to avoid squating, so some mm of rear arms are removed- do you remove those mm just at inside hinge pin, or also at outside?

Hi hardijs, I think the 1 Million in the centre is to heavy, try coming down to 200k. Also try coming down on shock oil's to 300cst rear / 500cst front, Run the shocks in the outer hole on the arms. I would keep the heavier springs on, especially on the rear. Keep the pistons as 1.5 all round, running a bigger hole rear piston will give more steering and a little better straight line bump handling, but it will also make the car want to squat even more! Your ride height looks ok. after making the changes, and if you still need more steering, come down to 10k in the front diff.

The rear arms, your taking the 2mm away from the inner pin side, as per my photo above.

Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on. :thumbsup:

[Stickygeko]

Silly question, but for those who are using associated springs (front mainly)
Are you using the 2 or 4wd ones... ive seen some that look like theyre short so assumed theyd be 2wd ones

[s22jgs]

Silly question, but for those who are using associated springs (front mainly)
Are you using the 2 or 4wd ones... ive seen some that look like theyre short so assumed theyd be 2wd ones


the big bore springs are for both 2wd and 4wd. no specific springs for either

[Stickygeko]

the big bore springs are for both 2wd and 4wd. no specific springs for either


Thanks Steven, Ive plenty of AE springs from our b5m's to give them a try then

[hardijs]

If running wide staggers on the front and pins on the rear you will need to remove grip from the rear. Check my setup posted the other day as these are the tyres i was running. I raised the rear hinge pin, moved the shocks and rear link.

When i said standard lexan wing, i meant any generic lexan wing. Sworkz dont make one at the moment.

Rear arm mod, sorry i miss read you original question. You only need to remove plastic from the inside hinge pin area. No need to remove anything from where the rear hub attaches.

Thank you Steve! will try it all on this weekend and will give a feedback ;)

[hardijs]

Hi hardijs, I think the 1 Million in the centre is to heavy, try coming down to 200k. Also try coming down on shock oil's to 300cst rear / 500cst front, Run the shocks in the outer hole on the arms. I would keep the heavier springs on, especially on the rear. Keep the pistons as 1.5 all round, running a bigger hole rear piston will give more steering and a little better straight line bump handling, but it will also make the car want to squat even more! Your ride height looks ok. after making the changes, and if you still need more steering, come down to 10k in the front diff.

The rear arms, your taking the 2mm away from the inner pin side, as per my photo above.

Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on. :thumbsup:

Hi Mark,
Thanks for advices!
Will try lighter oils, but diff oils will keep the same, as we have limited track avilability, as its build at gym and removed after every meeting.
So this Sunday is the last practice before the first indoor stage, so the main thing I need is practice-track time, as it will be my first 1/10 4wd buggy season (I have driven 1/8 buggy outdoors, but not on high grip, so here is a quite big difference how to drive) at the moment I think that car is much better already with existing setup than my driving skill, so will change just those things which I can quickly swich back while motor will cool down, so compare mine feeling.

And 1M at center diff - I liked that car is like a rocket, I guess lighter center diff oil will reduce cars punch abilities...

Next week will let you know how the changes worked.
Will try also post some pictures, as this car not only drives great, but also looks fantastic :thumbsup:

[s22jgs]

And 1M at center diff - I liked that car is like a rocket, I guess lighter center diff oil will reduce cars punch abilities...



I would agree with Mark on the centre diff. I tried 1mil on Sunday and it was too agressive so went back to 500k. You will also get a better steering response with a lighter centre diff

[hardijs]

I would agree with Mark on the centre diff. I tried 1mil on Sunday and it was too agressive so went back to 500k. You will also get a better steering response with a lighter centre diff

ok, will cut 15-20min from my race time and will change diff oils at center diff, to check how it drives with 1M and 500k.
What about rear diff- now I have at front 20k and at rear 10k, Mark said Front 20k and Rear 15k... can you feel difference between 15k an10k at rear? As when I turned them at hand they felt so similar... 20k and 10k. At 1/8 buggy diffs 10k difference is very remarkable, but here it was just a little difference..almost none...at least at my hands :D

[s22jgs]

i also run 20 and 15 at the moment.
found it much better than 8 or 10 in the rear

[mark-rc]

I started with 10k front and 7k rear, but found the car to feel inconsistent, at 20k fr and 15k rr, the car felt alot more balanced with Front to rear grip. With 1 million in the centre diff, you couldn't feed the throttle in how I wanted and the car was almost popping wheelies. Running a softer centre diff let me use the power more on flowing and slow corners.

[Chris Elworthy]

Thanks for the info Mark. I've been running 1million in the centre diff but as you say it's a bit aggressive on throttle, not uncontrollable but could be a factor in causing a little on power push. I will give the 500k a try for next time.

Ran my car indoor on carpet at West Bridgford at the weekend and could have been doing with a softer centre diff then. Didn't fancy trying to change the crazy thick oil trackside though.


Chris

[Stickygeko]

How did you get on chris

[Chris Elworthy]

Did ok but my driving was a little inconsistent early on so took me a few runs to get on pace.

Qualified 2nd overall but with time pressing on and Nottingham Forest's match finishing shortly before I was due to race the final I decided to not race the final and head home as I didn't want to be stuck in traffic for hours on end.

Made minor changes such as going to 4wd cut staggers on the front and softening the front spring and stiffening the rear. Car was decent but would probably benefit from a lighter centre diff oil as said earlier.

For the next meeting I will increase my F/R diff oils also.. Not sure when I will be racing next however as I'm busy for the coming weeks.


Chris

[mkb]

Just one question with 1M in the middle diff as you intended

Do you mean 1.000.000 cst (1000k) or 100.000 cst (100k)

1000k That's very high. You'll then need a spoon to use it

[Chris Elworthy]

Yeah that's right 1million cst diff oil it's incredibly thick and you do need a wrench or spoon to put in the diff half.

I'm going to be trying 500,000cst next time which is half the weight


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Hayden ran kit setup last night 5k front and back 100 centre, 500 front an rear shocks, stock springs, Mark setup the camber, toe etc. 1st heat the 10.5 esc and motor popped so took the speed passion reventon 8.5 combo out of his b5m and put it in the evo, no further issues. Hayden finds the car really easy to drive, he went 2nd in heat 2 (I think...may be 3rd behind Anna) then won heat 3. That put him P1 for Bfinal, missed out on A final by less than a second. He started 1st and finished 1st, very consistent lap times too. He pulled away massively infield but we have some rumble strips and weird jumps all put together, if hayden put any power down here he flipped (rear end was too hard for the bumps) so slowed right down there, next time we are going to try a lot lighter oil in the rear dropping down from 500 (kit) to 300. Doing that tonight ready for chadderton tomorrow.

[Stickygeko]

Hayden raced at chadderton today, unfortunately only finished 2 heats(1&3)... heat 1 was fine but car still had 500 front and back pill along with roll bars.... took them off which was miles better, with them on the back flipped up on the little bumps, roll bar off and this stopped happening ... on the 13th laps with a few minutes to go Hayden broke a control arm, I didn't have any spares so glued it back together.... this held for heat 3, he did alright but wasnt pushing cos he knew he had a broken arm bur managed to finish... heat 4... car ok the line..wouldn't set off... closer inspection a wire had come off the motor... final came round he managed 3 laps when the glue gave up and retired

here's a video from one of heats https://youtu.be/qbebXztexsk

A few who were watching had said the car looks good but was a little loose, so will follow Marks advice and soften the oil in the rear shocks for next time

[s22jgs]

Hayden raced at chadderton today, unfortunately only finished 2 heats(1&3)... heat 1 was fine but car still had 500 front and back pill along with roll bars.... took them off which was miles better, with them on the back flipped up on the little bumps, roll bar off and this stopped happening ... on the 13th laps with a few minutes to go Hayden broke a control arm, I didn't have any spares so glued it back together.... this held for heat 3, he did alright but wasnt pushing cos he knew he had a broken arm bur managed to finish... heat 4... car ok the line..wouldn't set off... closer inspection a wire had come off the motor... final came round he managed 3 laps when the glue gave up and retired

here's a video from one of heats https://youtu.be/qbebXztexsk

A few who were watching had said the car looks good but was a little loose, so will follow Marks advice and soften the oil in the rear shocks for next time

Rear looks skatey. Drop the rear hinge pins down if ure still on kit setup. Will allow it to roll more and give more rear side grip

[Stickygeko]

steven the rear hinge pins set to down/down on the back

[s22jgs]

steven the rear hinge pins set to down/down on the back

ok where are the rear link positions and shock positions?

[hardijs]

on Sunday was my 2nd track time with my EVO...the last practice day before the first indoor race which will be after 2 weeks.

My practice time was divided in such a way, that it was track aviliable 2x10min per hour, so after 10min runtime I made next changes.
Starting setup:
Ride height: Front 16mm, Rear 17mm
Shock oils: Front 500cst, Rear 300cst,
Springs Yatabe Purple front and rear.
Plastic spacers which where intended to put between orings I put at schock a a shock limiters.
Diffs: Front 20k, Rear 15k, Center 500k
Tires: Wide stagger front and minipin 2 rear
All the rest setup- as per manual
ESC and motor from REDS 6.5t, pinion stock 19t


so following all your advices I made following changes:
1st change was:
Changed kit plastic wing to lexan wing with low cuted backside- car become much easer to drive, it kept line much better- I was surprised how big difference this change made.
Although best lap time (12.335sek) was the same as with kit wing, but medium lap times become better.
Maybe it because I used to track better (as it was a new layout for track again), but anyway with lexan wing feeling was much better.
2. Changed Yoko Purple springs to AE springs Purple Front and Yellow rear... not felt any difference...best lap time was even worse, but a little only (12.360sek), but I kept AE as I like better how car feels with those springs on table :)
3. Changed diff oil at center 500k to 300k.
car become a litle softer feeling, but not a huge difference again.
as best lap was almost the same (12.335sek) decided not to change oils at diff and kept this one for all rest of the day.
4. Put a long wheel base on car.
Squating reduced in the begining I even thought that this change is not good, but lap times showed that its better...best lap now was 12.264 and already several laps where around 12.40sek, so decided to keep also this mod.
5. As my cars rear was hited up after edgy ramps I decided to change shock oil at rear from 300cst to 400cst...again I not felt huge difference, but it seemed that its better now on these edgy ramps...and best lap time droped to 12.201sek.
6. Shortened rear uper link on inside hole on the hub.
WOW...this change was impresive...car allowed to push harder at the exit...Best lap time drops to 11.818sek...but as the 2nd best lap time was only 12.198sek so maybe 11.818sek lap was with some cutted corner :) but anyway car become much better after this change.
7. The lastly I changed tires, I was driving all the time minipin blue tires at rear and now I put a little worn mini pin 2 yellow tires - and now car was able to push even harder.
In the last two rounds I decided not to make any changes, but to enjoy the day...and help to my son with some advice, as he also drives new EVO.
The final round I ended with the best lap 11.878 as well with some other laps below12sek., so I was just a little slower than last year champ with his xb4`15, but yes, champ made those lap time more consistent, but anyway with my speed I should be able to fight for top3...after 2 weeks will see how the things will go at race.

Thank You to You all for help! :)

[Stickygeko]

ok where are the rear link positions and shock positions?

t(cars in the boot of my car at the minute, middle left closest to the diff, outer ones im not sure but built them as per kit, and shocks inner 2nd hole from left and lower is at the outer hole

[s22jgs]

t(cars in the boot of my car at the minute, middle left closest to the diff, outer ones im not sure but built them as per kit, and shocks inner 2nd hole from left and lower is at the outer hole


ok. Looking at the video the floor seems quite slippy?

Going on current settings, drop the rear inner link to the bottom, this will allow the car to roll more again.

With the shocks, assuming the floor is slippy as it seems, bring the shocks in on both the top and bottom. In on the bottom will soften the suspension and allow the car to generate more grip. Bringing the shock in one at the top will also soften things up, but make for a more progressive rear end.

Also coming in on the arms will help the car rotate still after you have added the extra rear grip.

[Stickygeko]

ok. Looking at the video the floor seems quite slippy?

Going on current settings, drop the rear inner link to the bottom, this will allow the car to roll more again.

With the shocks, assuming the floor is slippy as it seems, bring the shocks in on both the top and bottom. In on the bottom will soften the suspension and allow the car to generate more grip. Bringing the shock in one at the top will also soften things up, but make for a more progressive rear end.

Also coming in on the arms will help the car rotate still after you have added the extra rear grip.


Yes is quite slippy, its an indoor running track, rubber surface

Ill move them in for the next outing there, I also removed the sway bars... is it worth putting them back on but maybe lighter ones? Kit ones didnt seem to help or do i just leave them off completely


Haydens next meeting is Friday at ribble where it is high grip carpet with foam tyres (ive put a video up on my Facebook page, its a club video so not the best picture quality, he won as mentioned but the back end was too stiff so going to lighten it for friday)

[s22jgs]

Yes is quite slippy, its an indoor running track, rubber surface

Ill move them in for the next outing there, I also removed the sway bars... is it worth putting them back on but maybe lighter ones? Kit ones didnt seem to help or do i just leave them off completely


Haydens next meeting is Friday at ribble where it is high grip carpet with foam tyres (ive put a video up on my Facebook page, its a club video so not the best picture quality, he won as mentioned but the back end was too stiff so going to lighten it for friday)

if the traction is that low then it could well be better with roll bars off. But that may be more exagerated by the fact the shocks were rather heavy, and running on the outer hole on the arms

[Stickygeko]

if the traction is that low then it could well be better with roll bars off. But that may be more exagerated by the fact the shocks were rather heavy, and running on the outer hole on the arms

dropping the rear from 500 to 300 is that going to be too big a jump? he likes the feel but as you can see it does need the tweeks mentioned which ill get done asap.

The roll bar removed is so hard! its difficult to get those bad boys off, the gaps almost non existent to get the clip on the arm

***Well done Hardis!

[s22jgs]

dropping the rear from 500 to 300 is that going to be too big a jump? he likes the feel but as you can see it does need the tweeks mentioned which ill get done asap.

The roll bar removed is so hard! its difficult to get those bad boys off, the gaps almost non existent to get the clip on the arm

***Well done Hardis!
just undo the grub screw on one side, no need to fully remove them

[Stickygeko]

just undo the grub screw on one side, no need to fully remove them


noted for future lol cos he needs them on high grip, ballache taking them off on low grip

[Stickygeko]

Petit Rc has setups for the evo now.... only 1 or 2 currently but may be worth sharing ours there too

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/sworkz/SetupSheetsSWorkzS104Evo.html

[s22jgs]

Petit Rc has setups for the evo now.... only 1 or 2 currently but may be worth sharing ours there too

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/sworkz/SetupSheetsSWorkzS104Evo.html

Arno put mine on there when i post then to facebook already.

you can also find mine here http://www.sjgs.co?page=setups

[Stickygeko]

Arno put mine on there when i post then to facebook already.

you can also find mine here http://www.sjgs.co?page=setups

Steve, on your setup sheet you put the spacer on the top control arm in front of the arm... we have it at thre rear of the arm, what does moving it forward do?

Thanks

[s22jgs]

Steve, on your setup sheet you put the spacer on the top control arm in front of the arm... we have it at thre rear of the arm, what does moving it forward do?

Thanks

GIves you more caster. It will calm the initial steering, and give more mid corner and on exit steering. Makes the car a bit easier to drive too.

[Stickygeko]

Thanks Steve

[Chris Elworthy]

Can't seem to find the answer in the manual,

Is it possible to adjust the rear toe in using the included arm mount inserts?

I think my car would benefit from less


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Can't seem to find the answer in the manual,

Is it possible to adjust the rear toe in using the included arm mount inserts?

I think my car would benefit from less


Chris


On the setup sheet posted it shows rear toe in - -1/0/+1 but think that actually refers to squat

my guess is you need a different rear hingepin holder...

[s22jgs]

Can't seem to find the answer in the manual,

Is it possible to adjust the rear toe in using the included arm mount inserts?

I think my car would benefit from less


Chris

nope. be surprised if you needed less than 3. it already had shed loads of steering

[Stickygeko]

1st round of Bury Metro indoor season todaytoday. We have 3 evos attending today, all 3 slightly different setups let's hope we can get some wins on the board today

[Stickygeko]

Evos went well today, 2 of the top 3 4wd final were evos, Chris in 2nd and Mark 3rd. Im sure Chris and mark will chip in shortly as they both made quite a few changes. Haydens car was kit bar the centre diff which was lowered to 20k. Setup still needs tweaking but Hayden was happy with the drive, started in C heat and managed to get into B final p7 and finished 5th which was great. congratulations to Chris and Mark

[s22jgs]

awesome!

I got a 6th at Off Road Wars. We also had 2 other Evo's in the C final but they were at disadvantage as they couldnt make saturday practice.

Happy with my 6th - i had some real issues with the amount of grip the rear of the car was generating on mini pin 2's.

On a positive note, the shocks were working really well. 2x1.4 in the front with 50wt oil, and 2x1.5 and 2x1mm holes in the rear with 40wt.

[Chris Elworthy]

Good going Steve,

I totally agree about the rear end being too locked in so I went out with the intention of trying to make the front of the car more nimble off power as I've found the car consistent but a little safe so far.
The track was around 50/50 very high grip carpet and slippy gym floor. Even on the slippy sweeper at the end of the straight the car just wouldn't come round enough into turn one losing a lot of time.

Through the day I increased the front caster to give a little more steering through the corner and increased the rear wheelbase to take some of the weight off the rear tyres. I noticed that the rear had lots of droop and the front very little so I unwound the front shock eyelets 3.5 turns (maybe a little too much so will maybe reduce to 2 turns for next time) which made the car far more balanced front to rear and settled the car a lot when going through the skippy bumps as the car landed between them far better. The biggest improvement in making the car feel more racey was to move the front shocks to the inner hole on the front wishbone which gave me the steering i needed to keep the car tight into the corner although the rear was a little looser on corner exit.

I'd been around a second a lap slower than Team C driver Adam Perei's fast laps all day but these changes put me just .2 of a second off his quickest for the final. I stayed with Adam for half the race before getting caught on the carpeted ramp somehow losing a few seconds and drove a few tatty laps allowing Adam to drive away with a faultless run.

Given that this is only the 3rd time ive ever raced a 4wd I need to start learning to drive the car more like a 4wd and not like a 2wd. That said to be on pace with Adam who is a very quick driver especially on low grip surfaces with years of 4wd experience is very promising. This car is getting better and better and inspires confidence.

Fellow Sworkz driver Mark Redmond rolled home in 3rd. Running a far different setup to mine he didn't quite get onto his usual pace yesterday. We was running far different diff oil setups with 500k in mine and on 20k in Mark's centre diff. As you would expect Mark's was far smoother on power than mine but was still trying different shock oil combo's to get the desired feel. I was running 600/400 oils with AE purple front and AE green rear springs where Mark was running 650/300 oils but unsure of springs- I'm sure he will share shortly.

Young Hayden Calf is learning quickly and got far more assured with his car through the day. Hayden was running new faster equipment for the first time on a slippy track so took a little bit of getting used to the conditions and extra speed. Hayden looked nice and assured and I'm sure when he's got used to the extra power in the car he will develop into a very handy driver.

Onwards and upwards for Sworkz!!!

Thanks once again to Sworkz UK/Answer RC for the support.


Chris

[s22jgs]

Good going Steve,

I totally agree about the rear end being too locked in so I went out with the intention of trying to make the front of the car more nimble off power as I've found the car consistent but a little safe so far.
The track was around 50/50 very high grip carpet and slippy gym floor. Even on the slippy sweeper at the end of the straight the car just wouldn't come round enough into turn one losing a lot of time.

Through the day I increased the front caster to give a little more steering through the corner and increased the rear wheelbase to take some of the weight off the rear tyres. I noticed that the rear had lots of droop and the front very little so I unwound the front shock eyelets 3.5 turns (maybe a little too much so will maybe reduce to 2 turns for next time) which made the car far more balanced front to rear and settled the car a lot when going through the skippy bumps as the car landed between them far better. The biggest improvement in making the car feel more racey was to move the front shocks to the inner hole on the front wishbone which gave me the steering i needed to keep the car tight into the corner although the rear was a little looser on corner exit.

I'd been around a second a lap slower than Team C driver Adam Perei's fast laps all day but these changes put me just .2 of a second off his quickest for the final. I stayed with Adam for half the race before getting caught on the carpeted ramp somehow losing a few seconds and drove a few tatty laps allowing Adam to drive away with a faultless run.

Given that this is only the 3rd time ive ever raced a 4wd I need to start learning to drive the car more like a 4wd and not like a 2wd. That said to be on pace with Adam who is a very quick driver especially on low grip surfaces with years of 4wd experience is very promising. This car is getting better and better and inspires confidence.

Fellow Sworkz driver Mark Redmond rolled home in 3rd. Running a far different setup to mine he didn't quite get onto his usual pace yesterday. We was running far different diff oil setups with 500k in mine and on 20k in Mark's centre diff. As you would expect Mark's was far smoother on power than mine but was still trying different shock oil combo's to get the desired feel. I was running 600/400 oils with AE purple front and AE green rear springs where Mark was running 650/300 oils but unsure of springs- I'm sure he will share shortly.

Young Hayden Calf is learning quickly and got far more assured with his car through the day. Hayden was running new faster equipment for the first time on a slippy track so took a little bit of getting used to the conditions and extra speed. Hayden looked nice and assured and I'm sure when he's got used to the extra power in the car he will develop into a very handy driver.

Onwards and upwards for Sworkz!!!

Thanks once again to Sworkz UK/Answer RC for the support.


Chris

Sounds like Mark may have found what i have found this morning. I reported my weekend findings back to Kev, and after a chat about things, i loaded 15k into the centre diff this morning and had a scud about on my living room carpet.

All i shall say is i know living room carpet isnt the same as racing carpet, but ill be trying 15k in the centre tomorrow night for sure. currently in the diffs is 20-15-10

On the shock side of things i found the 1.4 piston in the front stopped the car from slapping the deck so easily. the additional 1mm holes on the rear pistons took away a fair chunk of the pack that the 1.5 pistons have on the rear. it now soaks up bumps and lands jumps so much better

[Chris Elworthy]

Sounds good! I will try the thinner diff oil too for the next meeting especially when I'm running on high grip. We both suffered from a little of the front wheel lifting on power using both 500k and 20k centre diff oils. My thinking has been that this issue was caused by the thick centre diff oil but it may be something else as Mark suffered it too.

What pistons are you using? The ones from the kit but drilled out?

I'm racing on predominately low grip tracks through the winter so my shock package will probably differ from yours somewhat.


Chris

[s22jgs]

Sounds good! I will try the thinner diff oil too for the next meeting especially when I'm running on high grip. We both suffered from a little of the front wheel lifting on power using both 500k and 20k centre diff oils. My thinking has been that this issue was caused by the thick centre diff oil but it may be something else as Mark suffered it too.

What pistons are you using? The ones from the kit but drilled out?

I'm racing on predominately low grip tracks through the winter so my shock package will probably differ from yours somewhat.


Chris

Its just caused by the rear collapsing under power.

Biggest improvement on this for me has been to add some anti squat, and running the longer wheelbase. I am running mine with 3mm off the rear arms, and 2mm in front of the rear hub. i think it comes out at 280mm, when the kit max wheelbase is 278mm

Running mini pin 2 tyres doesnt help either as they generate so much grip.

I will be going back to mini pin 1 after tomorrow night - and thats only cos i have 4 sets of scrubbed ones from the weekend that i dont wanna just throw in the bin after 2 runs on each

Yes, just melting and drilling the kit pistons

[hardijs]

Also at 1st Latvian indoor offroad race EVO debuted very successful :)
After qualification I took P3 on starting grid at A-main, and my 10years old son was 6th at B final. As we have small track, so at each final it is only 6 cars.
Final positions: I finished 2nd overal :thumbsup:, my son was 11th overal, but 1st at junior clasification :thumbsup:

Just a small (not good quality) video to understand what type of track we run :)
Short video at A1, vid. begins with my car, while I was at P1, which I lost quite quick, but kept P2 till end of race :)
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNx_GI4KqWfUN0kOffAbX4Tp-CodiF-VBNig3PLvNaC49UwVTC0uhXl5EFLRew8sg/photo/AF1QipP4_kefvgVYWzNGiUTPB1BID6uBPtUfDLS-fN7O?key=aDlxRmlGTXVEMlpIM1JaWXNGdndMdWpKaWxGRW1n
And next small one - start of A3 my car at P3 :)
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNx_GI4KqWfUN0kOffAbX4Tp-CodiF-VBNig3PLvNaC49UwVTC0uhXl5EFLRew8sg/photo/AF1QipP4swLJ84kdy65w7Wrx8cR80VCuvsqiFBjFXraQ?key=a DlxRmlGTXVEMlpIM1JaWXNGdndMdWpKaWxGRW1n

[Stickygeko]

Well done hardis... i cant view the videos - get a restriction error

[Andywoods]

Has anybody tried putting 12mm hexes on from another car?

[Stickygeko]

Not that I've seen on any of the forums... Here... Rc tech etc.

The 2wd comes with 12mm hex front and both 12mm hex and 14mm hex rears... So hopefully we can use those on the evo

[s22jgs]

Has anybody tried putting 12mm hexes on from another car?


Wouldnt fit, axels are too big

[Andywoods]

Wouldnt fit, axels are too big

I know the axles are too big but what iam thinking is changing the driveshafts and hub has anybody looked into this certainly on the rear

[Chris Elworthy]

I don't see why that can't be done Andy, that's what I intend to do when the 2wd comes out. Shouldn't be hard to change over

[mark-rc]

Bury's indoor meeting on Sunday was a big learning curve for me with the evo. The way I drive is smooth in to the corner and fast out of it. One of the handling traits the car has on high grip is the rear end squatting/collapsing hard and lifting the the front inside wheel, this happens when coming out of the corner and getting hard on the throttle. To stop this happening it's normally a case of going heavier on the rear roll bar and spring, smaller hole piston and/or heavier oil in the rear, shorter and lower rear link to make the car square up faster, more or less anti squat 'depending on make of car'.

After changing all of these settings from one extreme to another, it made no difference, and the car would still do it. So that now tells me that it's a power/drive train transfer problem and not so much a suspension issue. So I came down in the centre diff oil to 20k and it really started to improve it, for the Final I dropped it down to 10k and again it felt better, but it was still there. After reading posts from people who retro fitted a centre diff in the Sworkz 104 ek1, most said that they found the same thing happening after fitting a centre diff. I found that on the slippy section of the track 10k all round felt really good, but as soon as I got on the carpet I was loosing a lot of time as I couldn't drive it the way I wanted to.

So now I am trying to fit a slipper clutch to the car, and then test it this weekend and see if that resolves the issue for me. I do think the front end is over damped and under packed with the standard kit pistons and needs a smaller hole piston so we don't have to use such heavy oil in the front, it also needs a much stiffer front spring compared to the rear, as it helps keep the front end more level over jumps and bumps.

I will post up my findings after the weekend.

[s22jgs]

I found after a couple of laps 15k that it lost too much drive as the oil warmed up. I will be trying 50k next

Mine does not squat down anymore though even if I run 500k centre. I found wheelbase was the main cause of this. I am running 3mm off the rear arms and 2 mm in front of the rear hubs.

[Chris Elworthy]

Car has been out for a few months now, how is everyone getting on?

Any issues? Tips and tricks you have learned?

I've been making solid progress with the car so would be interested in other people's experiences.



Chris

[s22jgs]

made some really good progress with the car tonight with a different approach to setup. Softer shocks, lighter diffs, heavier roll bars, and a change of tyres.

finished qualifying running about 7 seconds quicker than last week.

sheet is here: http://www.sjgs.co/setups/s14_2_20151103_maritime.pdf

[Stickygeko]

https://www.facebook.com/sworkzrc/posts/1019046718135153

[hardijs]

2nd indoor stage at Latvian indoor ofroad champinship finished.
At practice day I tested several new settings and allways came back to my previous setup, as it worked very good, car was easy to drive and I was able to make laps in the same speed as the fastest guys.
Quali`s I finished 3rd.
So started from P3, all finals finished at 3rd and was 3rd in overal race results.
My fastest laps where at the same level as for fastes drivers, but my mistakes placed me where I finished :)
At A1 and A3 at the very begining of race I fliped over,so was back on last position and during the race I get back to P3.

Car was very good on high grip carpet, no such problems like Mark wrote...I was able to push as hard I wish nad almost with standard car kit...just some mods made.
I can`t attach setup sheet as it shows file is to big...but will try to add it later.

Here is video from A3, I started at P3, but the main herros at this video where other two guys who battled for the win.
At the first my post about EVO car I wrote that I like how this car is predictable... on this vid you can see at three times how I sattle the car after 2wheel drive back to all four... 3month ago I thought it can be done only by pro drivesr with cat refexes, but here on 1.33min, 2.02min and 2.14min you can see how it can be done, by no pro driver :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkL-xZbLRlg