Which 2wd buggy

[Davewilliams100]

Returning to the hobby after 20 years. Looking at buying a 2wd buggy, think narrowed down to lossi or Schumacher, any suggestions? Will be racing at Herts and Stotfold. Also with regard to radio, will be using sticks, to keep cost down will look for 2nd hand, any pointers to for ale threads? Thanks, Dave

[JohnM]

Either cars should be pretty good.

The Schumacher is possibly the better car for Stotfold, not seen a 22-3.0 yet to know how good it is. But the Losi has some good Team drivers racing at Herts, so there's always help with set up there.

[Davewilliams100]

Thanks John. Plan to visit Herts this Sunday to see what people are running. Any good 2nd hand sites/forums?

[JohnM]

Here tends to be pretty good for secondhand stuff.

Or there's normally someone trackside that knows of stuff for sale, plus you get to see it working first, which is always a bonus.

[Davewilliams100]

Thanks, will take a look.

[bigalbi]

If you're going to be at Stotfold a lot of the guys there are running Schumacher already so spares and advice will be more readily available.

Otherwise either make is likely to be competitive. Just depends what flavour you fancy :)

[neallewis]

Just get a yokomo yz2 kit and you're sorted.
Don't mess about with ae, losi or the other no-name brands.

Schumacher are great, UK designed and built, but if you like a new "team" part every week be prepared to get you cheque book out.

[jonathan may]

so don't mess with a AE the car that just won the worlds ?

[fidspeed]

all the "big" brands are fine whether it be Schumacher ,yokomo AE losi or team c

schumacher tend to be most numerous and parts are easily available
yokomo after years in the wilderness are back with a bang and very solid cars

AE and losi popularity has wilted a little over the past years in the UK but by no means are poor cars

team c are relatively new performers but have good backing too

each racer has his own "favourites" returning racers will probably not make good the performance of the latest incarnation and will get better value from secondhand used equipment

whatever you choose there is plenty of good advice on this forum

always do your homework think twice get advice go to your local track get advice then buy according to your pocket not your dreams :thumbsup:

regards dave

[mark christopher]

just to point out, my Schumacher beats neals yok, so there not that bad :p:thumbsup:

there all good cars see what's popular at your local track

[andy-aj]

I race at Herts. There are mainly a mixture of KF/KF2, B5M's and Losi 22's at club meetings. With drivers of similar ability, on a dry day, the KF/KF2 seem to have an advantage, wet to damp, the mid motors have the edge. Superstar's will make anything look fast.

[neallewis]

so don't mess with a AE the car that just won the worlds ?

You can't buy the car that just won the worlds. If the B5M was so good (on UK style tracks), everyone would run them, but they don't. And Craggy doesn't run a B5M (or lite or champs edition)...

[neallewis]

just to point out, my Schumacher beats neals yok, so there not that bad :p:thumbsup:

there all good cars see what's popular at your local track

Only because you didn't get taken out by the black car Mark ;-) :thumbsup:

I have a KF also, and numerous other Schumacher cars. I like them, but like yokomo's more.

[claymoreman]

everyones opinion on what car doesnt really count
you have to find a car that suits your style of driving and what you feel comfortable with.
what suits one person may not suit you the yz2 is good out the box but then I own a yz2 so im going to say that same as schumacher owners ae owners team c firebolt xray owners will say the same but in the end it all comes down to what you feel right driving try before you buy if you can asking for peoples opinions on which will be the right car could end up costing you money you dont have or can afford to spend on buying one car then realising that you cant get on with that car( and I be open and honest enough to say Im one of those people who has done that bought a car to realise it didnt suit me and my driving style)opinions are just that end of the day it will come down to which ever car you choose being right for you.

[Davewilliams100]

Thanks all for your comments, somethig for me to think about! I will get myself down to some club meetings, makes sense to get something that is popular in the clubs i will be visiting.

[Ashlandchris]

I'm going to stick my two-penneth in here even as a non expert. As has been said above, there is no clear "best car" as everyone will have their favourites. At the moment I have a YZ2 which I love, is robust and quick out of box, but there is no doubt that others are fast too.

One comment I will make is that KFs seem quick in dry but they also seem fragile. I recall one particular race meet at Batley earlier this summer with 6 cars in A final which were 3 KFs, 1 B5M and 2 YZ2s. Only 3 cars finished and none were KFs as all had a front left wishbone failure on the same corner / bump.

Losi seem to be very strong (I believe I've seen the term "tanks" used) but are not popular at Batley so I can't really comment on speed. I'm sure the new ones will be quick though.

Ultimately, go for what is popular at your club as you will be able to get set up help and urgent spares if needed at a race (so you don't end up going home due to a breakage) - particularly if going for a Schumacher as they seem to need a lot...:thumbsup:

[knighthawk]

I'm going to stick my two-penneth in here even as a non expert. As has been said above, there is no clear "best car" as everyone will have their favourites. At the moment I have a YZ2 which I love, is robust and quick out of box, but there is no doubt that others are fast too.

One comment I will make is that KFs seem quick in dry but they also seem fragile. I recall one particular race meet at Batley earlier this summer with 6 cars in A final which were 3 KFs, 1 B5M and 2 YZ2s. Only 3 cars finished and none were KFs as all had a front left wishbone failure on the same corner / bump.

Losi seem to be very strong (I believe I've seen the term "tanks" used) but are not popular at Batley so I can't really comment on speed. I'm sure the new ones will be quick though.

Ultimately, go for what is popular at your club as you will be able to get set up help and urgent spares if needed at a race (so you don't end up going home due to a breakage) - particularly if going for a Schumacher as they seem to need a lot...:thumbsup:

Again what is best thread.

"Ashlandchris" I think this says more about the drivers of the Schumacher's that the car itself.

I bought a 2nd hand KF last year and have only broke one front hub since owning it, take from that what you will.

[neallewis]

One comment I will make is that KFs seem quick in dry but they also seem fragile. I recall one particular race meet at Batley earlier this summer with 6 cars in A final which were 3 KFs, 1 B5M and 2 YZ2s. Only 3 cars finished and none were KFs as all had a front left wishbone failure on the same corner / bump.



Good example Chris, but it was 4 non-finishing KF's, not 3. The drivers of those all watched in disbelief as I hit the part of the track that took them all out time and time again each lap with the YZ2. :thumbsup:

Look at what's popular and common at the tracks you intend to go to. if the car works well for those drivers, it should work well for you, given some local setup help and knowledge, not to mention parts help if you are stuck without a spare.

[neallewis]

Again what is best thread.

"Ashlandchris" I think this says more about the drivers of the Schumacher's that the car itself.

I bought a 2nd hand KF last year and have only broke one front hub since owning it, take from that what you will.

No, more about the brutal track we ran that day...
The drivers were all classed as good on regional and national level, better than me, but that isn't hard ;-)

[Ashlandchris]

No, more about the brutal track we ran that day...
The drivers were all classed as good on regional and national level, better than me, but that isn't hard ;-)

Certainly, the standard of driving was high, but on a slight left hand bend there was a "lump" very tight to the left. There was a protection in place, but the racing lines of the drivers kept tight left and snicked it very consistently on each lap. Every car, but only the KFs broke.

Ironically, the lower standard drivers (i.e. me :thumbsup:) didn't suffer as they weren't as quick or as tight to the inside of the bend

Again, I am only stating what was seen on the day as I marshalled that corner, and spent more time gathering bits of KF to take off track than I did marshalling in that particular final!

[J77MYF]

Someone needs to buy one of every 2wd buggy and compare them ;)

[Ashlandchris]

Someone needs to buy one of every 2wd buggy and compare them ;)

Isn't that what Sirshawny500 does?

[J77MYF]

Isn't that what Sirshawny500 does?

Haha indeed it is, although he never even uses them.

[buggy#0]

The honest truth is that everyone is just going to recommend their manufacturer of their choice with these threads. I could give you a list of reasons to get a Serpent SRX2 MM, such as its exceptional durability, how easy to drive it is, and how you get a completely capable car straight from the box without the need for hop-ups, yet it's still one of the cheapest 2WD kits out there.

However, 1/10 Off Road is such a competitive class that the market is pretty much at stalemate. It's much like 1/10 TC - all the cars look the same for a reason. There really is no car that is light years ahead of another - as long as you can find spares easily and it fits your budget, you'll be completely fine. Astroturf/carpet racing and a big push in quality has forced manufacturers to take the class seriously. Today, all cars are made to such a high standard that any cars which are fundamentally poor (take the original 22) show themselves up, and manufacturers have to take note to prevent poor sales. Even first attempts are exceptional - see the Carisma 4XS - a car that, besides rear hubs which are a tad too weak, is virtually impossible to fault quality-wise. Even the less well-known brands, like VBC and PR, are producing reasonably priced kits with great support from distributors and shops alike, all to the highest standard. If you took one back 10 years, and lined them up next to your average B4 and XXX-BK2, they'd look light years ahead.

Long story short, any modern 1/10 Off Road release is a strong enough package for you to buy it and enjoy running it. All have their weaknesses, all have their strengths, but you can't really "go wrong" with any purchase. The only car I know of which simply isn't up to the job for a 2015 kit is the TRF211XM, which is a very nice quality kit, but is simply overpriced, has too little UK support, and lacks some of the very basics that are to be expected on a car in 2015 (such as 12mm hexes). Other than that, see what people at your local club run, and pick whatever kit you like the look of. :thumbsup:

[Ashlandchris]

The honest truth is that everyone is just going to recommend their manufacturer of their choice with these threads. I could give you a list of reasons to get a Serpent SRX2 MM, such as its exceptional durability, how easy to drive it is, and how you get a completely capable car straight from the box without the need for hop-ups, yet it's still one of the cheapest 2WD kits out there.

However, 1/10 Off Road is such a competitive class that the market is pretty much at stalemate. It's much like 1/10 TC - all the cars look the same for a reason. There really is no car that is light years ahead of another - as long as you can find spares easily and it fits your budget, you'll be completely fine. Astroturf/carpet racing and a big push in quality has forced manufacturers to take the class seriously. Today, all cars are made to such a high standard that any cars which are fundamentally poor (take the original 22) show themselves up, and manufacturers have to take note to prevent poor sales. Even first attempts are exceptional - see the Carisma 4XS - a car that, besides rear hubs which are a tad too weak, is virtually impossible to fault quality-wise. Even the less well-known brands, like VBC and PR, are producing reasonably priced kits with great support from distributors and shops alike, all to the highest standard. If you took one back 10 years, and lined them up next to your average B4 and XXX-BK2, they'd look light years ahead.

Long story short, any modern 1/10 Off Road release is a strong enough package for you to buy it and enjoy running it. All have their weaknesses, all have their strengths, but you can't really "go wrong" with any purchase. The only car I know of which simply isn't up to the job for a 2015 kit is the TRF211XM, which is a very nice quality kit, but is simply overpriced, has too little UK support, and lacks some of the very basics that are to be expected on a car in 2015 (such as 12mm hexes). Other than that, see what people at your local club run, and pick whatever kit you like the look of. :thumbsup:

Amen

On Friday at Cully a chap (sorry, don't know name) had the hobbyking 2wd car called something like BZ22 or something. I think he said it cost ~£40 (so he'd bought 2) and he thrashed me. Rear hubs on mine cost more than that!!

[bigalbi]

Ashlandchris has nailed it.

The really quick guys could put a 4 wheeled RC toaster down on the start line and make it go quick. I think we've all bought the latest must have car at some point in the past thinking that we'll instantly be 4 seconds a lap quicker. Then reality bites you back and you realise that the weak link is actually the driver.

Since this realisation I have accepted my position in the pecking order :)

[dpackster1980]

I had a YZ2 and it was fast but hard work so ditched it. Bought a KF2 and it seems easier to drive, not as fast over a lap but faster over 5 minutes. The SE edition KF2 is better as you get all 3 layouts in one box. It takes very little time to change it as well.

The PR S1 V3 looks like a bargain, £240. The spec looks excellent not sure about the quality as I've never seen one.

The "my car is better than your car" opinions are BS and as for manufacture bashing that's pathetic. Every manufacturer has their issues, not one is perfect.

At the end of the day different cars suit different people. Go to a club and try each car and see what suits you. Like it and buy it. :thumbsup:

[Ross]

I had a YZ2 and it was fast but hard work so ditched it. Bought a KF2 and it seems easier to drive, not as fast over a lap but faster over 5 minutes. The SE edition KF2 is better as you get all 3 layouts in one box. It takes very little time to change it as well.

The PR S1 V3 looks like a bargain, £240. The spec looks excellent not sure about the quality as I've never seen one.

The "my car is better than your car" opinions are BS and as for manufacture bashing that's pathetic. Every manufacturer has their issues, not one is perfect.

At the end of the day different cars suit different people. Go to a club and try each car and see what suits you. Like it and buy it. :thumbsup:

This man speaks wise words :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I've had a few cars over the last 4 years and the easiest to drive by far has been the schumacher. The others have been good,maybe I have given them enough time to get them set up. I personally think the PR will be a good car, I would of thought Kev Lee would be importing them if it wasn't a good car.

For me, I'm looking at the Xray, it looks good, not a bad price and they are meant to be strong, that's a positive for my driving. And if I don't like it I can go back to my KF2 :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[fidspeed]

[QUOTE

On Friday at Cully a chap (sorry, don't know name) had the hobbyking 2wd car called something like BZ22 or something. I think he said it cost ~£40 (so he'd bought 2) and he thrashed me. Rear hubs on mine cost more than that!![/QUOTE]

there speaks a honest man

proof if any was ever needed its ultimately man that makes the difference not machine

dave

[Stevebolt]

I'd be tempted to get a second hand b5m and spend a bit more on radio gear , find your feet and go from there .

[oakey4]

Having never ran buggies before I've decided on buying a 2nd hand B5M it's in mint condition, only bought it 2 days ago, servo is sorted carnt wait to mess about with it ( that's if the kids will let me have ago lol ) :thumbsup:

[simonrhart]

I just went through this exact same process. I wanted a 2wd buggy to run on astro and indoors and to perform when the track is a little wet. Here is what I learned.

There are 4 types of 2wd buggy:

1. Mid-motor
2. Forward motor (KF, Db2, Team C, X factory etc)
3. Mid-motor lower centre of gravity
4. Rear motor (no good on most of our tracks here in the UK)

I have a forward motor car, they are great when the track is bone dry or when running indoors but I find it undrivable when it's wet/damp. I have also had a "normal" mid-motor car, they are ok in both wet and dry.

But some of the newer 2wd cars coming out (not sure about the Losi 22 v3) have a lower centre of gravity by placing the motor and gear box as close to the chassis as possible. There are a few car manufacturers doing this right now. The Losi 22 v3 might be one of them, I haven't seen that car yet.

Alot of the newer cars allow for shifting the lipo forwards and back also to allow for weight displacement.

Hope this helps.
Simon

[bish]

OK, so in terms of weight distribution (comparing rear motor to Mid motor) what is the actual difference between the two (i.e. 50/60% rear bias)

Admittedly, there can be some shifting during set up due to battery position etc. but does anyone know the numbers? I have a B4.1 Worlds and i'm not really sure i want to get rid of it and go 'mid' (and get new LiPo's too!)

I like a challenge, but also don't like to p*#s into the wind!

[AntH]

OK, so in terms of weight distribution (comparing rear motor to Mid motor) what is the actual difference between the two (i.e. 50/60% rear bias)

Admittedly, there can be some shifting during set up due to battery position etc. but does anyone know the numbers? I have a B4.1 Worlds and i'm not really sure i want to get rid of it and go 'mid' (and get new LiPo's too!)

I like a challenge, but also don't like to p*#s into the wind!

A B4 with lipo is about 70/30, Conventional mid is about 60/40, laydown mid is about 57/43 and front mid is 55/45. For dry astro and carpet, rear motor was finished 5 years ago. For high traction carpet and astro conventional mid is also no longer competitive. The KF2 is undeniably good on high traction and I think the jury is still out on 3 gear vs. 4 gear laydown transmissions...?

[bish]

Time to put the B4 and B4.1 WC in the classifieds then...

AntH, by "fwd mid", do you mean front wheel drive mid motor or centre mounted motor and rear wheel drive?

Tell me it's not front wheel drive, mid motor...I'll weep...

I raced FWD in scale saloons on carpet and it was very point and shoot, I'd hate to see buggies go that way. I've been away from racing for a while...

[Lee1972]

Time to put the B4 and B4.1 WC in the classifieds then...

AntH, by "fwd mid", do you mean front wheel drive mid motor or centre mounted motor and rear wheel drive?

Tell me it's not front wheel drive, mid motor...I'll weep...

I raced FWD in scale saloons on carpet and it was very point and shoot, I'd hate to see buggies go that way. I've been away from racing for a while...

No mate it means mid motor forward, look at the Schumacher KF2 as an example.

[JohnM]

Time to put the B4 and B4.1 WC in the classifieds then...


Or change one into a XFactory X-6 Cubed;)

[fivepointnine]

out of the box you cannot go wrong with any generation KF, there is just a bunch of support for them and they work well. The PRS1V3 is solid and Kev and the other UK PR team drivers have been racking up some impressive results with them (I have not gotten to drive mine yet) The B5M is not competitive on astro out of the box (the competitive ones all have the Reds laydown transmissions) same with the Losi 22. The new B5M champions edition and the 22 3.0 still have conventional MM/high center of gravity transmissions. They work great on clay tracks in the US (along with the RB6 and SV2)
The new Xray XB2 looks like a great buggy.
The other front motor buggies are great when its dry, an exercise in frustration when wet (TM2, DB2, Xray XB4/2, etc)

[madmax]

I've ran many cars. The of is good but I found you have to be on the ball all the time. I've also ran a bmax 2. Awesome car and very stable. I have seen Kev Lee run the pr1. And looks very easy to drive. I'm now running the sworkz s12-1m. It is almost spot on out the box with just slight tweaks the geometry is very similar to rb6 as we know works but with a laydown 3 gear gearbox. I would recommend the sworkz

[bish]

Some of the tracks here are still clay. I think I'll keep an eye out for a centro 4.2 conversion, or Amain have the SV2 for a great price right now.
I'm off the Phoenix next week so I'm packing the buggy to drive at SRS Raceway (clay). With MIDs rocking on clay now too though, so I could be in for a shock!

Edit:
So...racing on clay...I rocked up with proline Hole shots, expecting to put some laps down. Wow, i couldn't even get up the face of the jumps!
$60 later and a set of...slicks-the car was now amazing. What i couldn't deal with was the jumps (not used to them). Still a great time and experience. So much so i'd like to drive clay again.

The local track is astro, so i'll have to look for something mid after all. At the minute i'm looking for a Centro C4.2.

So, i accidentally got a KF2 :-)