View Full Version : Sworkz 12M your differences to kit versions

21-02-2016, 11:46 AM
Just out of curiosity im interested to know what issues you had and what upgrades you have done to resolve. It could be using brass or aloy front wishbone mount for more steering, shorter wheel base because of etc etc.

Me ive added the same servo as put into Kev's car as its heavier. Ive opted for a straight steering tie rods ball joints and put smaller joints and balls so i can reverse on steering plate. Ive cut away the centre section on the battery strap holder and placed esc in centre and wires go centrally over battery. Ive dremelled a hole on either side of the esc brace so the sensor wire can be fed through and made tidier so it goes in the wire section in the side wall of chassis plus other side ive fed the capacitor through which also makes neater and moves the weight where i want it. All wires for receiver neatly sit in front of esc and behind servo. Added washers ontop of knuckles to stop play. Added schumacher slipper pads along with hardened idler gear. Think the angle on the tie rods on the rear isnt right so drawn up a new rear tower and aiming to get made next month. Also filed away end section of plastic chassis rail to get access to the motor screws

23-02-2016, 10:22 AM
theres only a few small issues,

The idler gear stripping...taking out the gear diff case at the same time,
fixes for this.

the main one is the slipper pads, i ve now put the red ones in and not had a problem since
An uodated idler was released too
SWorkz are releasing a metal idler next week i beleive so that too will be an option

Ive stripped several of the kit servo horns

Sworkz have released an ally horn - no more issues

Steering not getting full right lock

I have reamed out a small section in the front top deck, this now fives full lock both left and right (I know some with and some without this problem so maybe the way ive set the servo horn)

steering plate splitting when you screw ballstud in

instructions were initially been added to the manual as a tactical fix instructing you to rear out the hole slightly - this works and no lobger causes an issue
long term fix i beleive Sworkz have sorted this in teh factory and the holes for the ballstuds are now slightly bigger

ive broken a few bulk heads (novice driver = crashes haha)

Sworkz releasing both ally and brass bulk heads very shortly

and thats it, no major issues other than the idler in my eyes, the car is now bob on.

There are also lots of option parts coming which is great news

setup wise prefer front shocks up on the outer, 500 front, 400 rear, kit springs, long wheel base, everything else kit setup. car feels great to drive

03-03-2016, 08:09 AM
there's nothing wrong with the design of the car in kit form.

06-03-2016, 12:31 PM
I know, but you changed yours with the brass bits so why?

07-03-2016, 08:17 AM
I know, but you changed yours with the brass bits so why?

Don't know what brass bits Steve's car used to have, but I use a brass RB6 ghea fronthe hinge pin brace. I find that outdoors it helps to calm the front of the car over ripples (especially considering that the s12 from kit seems to have quite limited droop) and also gets the car to jump a bit nose down easier which I prefer.

09-03-2016, 11:58 AM
I know, but you changed yours with the brass bits so why?

tuning aid not a modification. more steering

24-03-2016, 12:48 AM
I'm running mine pretty much out the box bar springs. I put the ally rear shock tower mount on the car if I want to sharpen the steering up I will be doing more testing and will let Pete an answer know my findings

06-09-2016, 10:54 AM
I found a brass block on the front makes a huge difference, but now considering testing moving the shocks forwards at the rear to see if thats better.