Trinity 24k 17.5 in t/c blinky

[Scott_83]

Hi all

As above. Anyone had use with this in blinky touring car.

Cheers

[Coastal]

yes.

I run them in 13.5 blinky and 17.5 blinky

the 17.5 I have has does not rev very high but has a very low current draw.
Like any motor the secret is getting the ratio right for the motor.

[Scott_83]

What advantage does a low current draw have

[reg]

This might be why they use it in 1s GT12,not taking so much out the battery's maybe?

[SlowOne]

We have more than enough battery capacity in GT12 so low current draw isn't an issue. WE use the 24k because it is really good motor and when sorted is fast through the whole run.

If the motor draws less current to give its speed them it generates less heat. That doesn't mean it is faster. As with any motor, find the right gearing/timing combo and it will go well.

In GT12 we find that combo on the 24k makes it arguably the best motor (with the Reedy 1S version) currently available. HTH :)

[Coastal]

Basically as stated a low current draw will mean the motor will run cooler.
High amp draw means more heat in the motor.
The ideal set up on a motor with no load should be around 6 amps, by altering the timing the amps will rise (more timing) or drop (less timing)
The top driverswith their smooth styles may run with higher amp draws but anything above 10 amps will result in more current draw and higher rpm but will generate more heat and the motor will suffer and lose performance towards the end of race.

Most 1S versions of motors are not legal for BRCA sanctioned Touring car meetings

[Scott_83]

How do you know if it is legal or not?

There is alot tho think about

[SlowOne]

The '6-amp' thing is a myth at best, and misleading at worst. It tells you nothing except that the motor is drawing 6 amps in a no-load condition.

Motors have to be set up to the clock - how fast the car goes round the track - and not to a no-load setting that has no relation to real world conditions or a temperature setting that has no relation to the performance on the track.

If you want to know if a motor is on the BRCA list approved for use at Nationals use these lists:

https://www.brca.org/documents/208-eb-05-brushless-motors-13-5t-spec-2016-v3.html

Most motors don't have 1S versions, but where they do they are on the list separately. HTH :)

[tcboy1983]

Strang how I know someone who has made esc, tune there own brand motors
And when I asked them they said tune to 6 -7amps and going on his time and knowledge of the sport and of the electrics ( plus having one of the quickest at our track) I will believe the 6 amps also u got to check that internal timing (not on can ) is about 52deg and that each is about the same ,10 deg difference between coils will mean bad shimming of rotor or bad sensor board

Also the 24k is used by most ppl down our track brill motor

[Coastal]

The '6-amp' thing is a myth at best, and misleading at worst. It tells you nothing except that the motor is drawing 6 amps in a no-load condition.

Motors have to be set up to the clock - how fast the car goes round the track - and not to a no-load setting that has no relation to real world conditions or a temperature setting that has no relation to the performance on the track.

If you want to know if a motor is on the BRCA list approved for use at Nationals use these lists:

https://www.brca.org/documents/208-eb-05-brushless-motors-13-5t-spec-2016-v3.html

Most motors don't have 1S versions, but where they do they are on the list separately. HTH :)

Sorry to disagree
yes, you can set a motor by the clock, you can go faster and faster by winding up the timing and get quicker and quicker times till it goes bang - then it is too late.
And as each motor is different the timing will be different.
The ideal way is set the motor to 6 amp draw the adjust the gearing measuring the temp of the motor at 2 - 4 mins. Doing it this way you don't have to worry about changing the timing & gearing for every track.

You can set the amp draw a bit higher if you have a motor tester - watch where the current really starts to jump and wind back a fraction.
This will normally be soon after the 6 amp point.

[SlowOne]

Sorry to disagree
yes, you can set a motor by the clock, you can go faster and faster by winding up the timing and get quicker and quicker times till it goes bang - then it is too late.And that's my point - it will not go quicker and quicker around the track because there comes a point where it won't pick up out of the turns and lap time suffers. Straight line speed is important for about 10% of the lap. Everywhere else it is the zip between corners that counts.

Let me put it another way - I don't know any top twenty racer who uses this method. If it was any good they would all use it. It only seems to be used by a handful of mid-field runners who think that a setting in a no load situation is valid for a race situation where scores of amps are drawn under load.

Sorry, but this has yet to convince anyone who knows about motors and racing that it has a place in the real world of racing an RC car.

[tcboy1983]

The real world of racing is club level not national level and top drivers get motors free or next to nothing so pushing them harder is not a problem , were as the larger amount of racers like myself (club level ) out way the national boys
And that's y we advise the 6 amp rule as this will give u a fast motor with good torque out of the corners and will not over heat so a motor last longer

[Coastal]

And that's my point - it will not go quicker and quicker around the track because there comes a point where it won't pick up out of the turns and lap time suffers. Straight line speed is important for about 10% of the lap. Everywhere else it is the zip between corners that counts.

Let me put it another way - I don't know any top twenty racer who uses this method. If it was any good they would all use it. It only seems to be used by a handful of mid-field runners who think that a setting in a no load situation is valid for a race situation where scores of amps are drawn under load.

Sorry, but this has yet to convince anyone who knows about motors and racing that it has a place in the real world of racing an RC car.

To get the zip out of corners is made by many actions, the more timing and therefore amp draw the less torque, setting around 6 amps tends to give the best of both, then getting the gearing right for acceleration and top end without over heating the motor will give the times that are competitive
You say you don't know of any top 20 driver who uses this method are you talking about top 20 17.5 blinky Touring car drivers i.e. those in the current top twenty of the BRCA Clubmans?

[paulc87]

I know of 3 people that use the rule of 6 amp draw in 17.5 clubmans. I used it to make 2 A finals this year and the Halifax 17.5 winner set his motor to 6 amp draw. Each to there own. I personally don't find any advantage to winding it right up, the difference between 6 amp and 15 amps is maybe only 8 degrees of timing on some motors