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View Full Version : Schumacher Cougar KD...


Hairy Spider
13-01-2017, 02:55 PM
http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Car_Showroom/images/CougarKD_LTQ_1000.jpg

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Car_Showroom/Cougar_KD.html

bish
13-01-2017, 03:15 PM
With manual and exploded diagrams on the website too Cougar KD/KC anyone?

mark christopher
13-01-2017, 06:54 PM
With manual and exploded diagrams on the website too Cougar KD/KC anyone?

no manual yet !!

Kev B
13-01-2017, 07:31 PM
It went on then was removed.

Groomi
13-01-2017, 07:31 PM
Looks like the roll bar is official then - as an option part.

Nice bit of evolution. Hope it brings some good results on the slippy stuff.

bish
13-01-2017, 08:12 PM
Wondering from the manual ("KD/C") if there will be a KC as well for carpet. Much like X-Ray have done?

Also wonder if the rear will fit onto a KF2?

matt
13-01-2017, 08:16 PM
Wondering from the manual ("KD/C") if there will be a KC as well for carpet. Much like X-Ray have done?

Also wonder if the rear will fit onto a KF2?

Looking at all the holes in the chassis i think they have a few layouts in mind.

fidspeed
13-01-2017, 09:21 PM
the boy has ordered one !!

Dave

mrspeedy
13-01-2017, 09:24 PM
Nicely spotted !! Could be a car for all surfaces ..

Likin the new bodyshell .. hope they make one like it to fit the KF2 ..

CARB
13-01-2017, 11:58 PM
I am with you on that, if it can work on wet and dry Astro, it will be a winner.
The holes in the chassis look like they will match the KF motor positions, although the transmission cases look to overhang the rear of the chassis quite a bit.
The new adjustable C hubs sound interesting, pity they have not given more adjustment like 2.5 degree castor instead of the 5 degrees only

CARB
13-01-2017, 11:59 PM
Looks like the roll bar is official then - as an option part.

Nice bit of evolution. Hope it brings some good results on the slippy stuff.

Does anyone use a roll bar in low grip or dirt, could for a carpet version

h0m3sy
23-01-2017, 09:13 PM
Great value kit

Rozzy2005
30-01-2017, 10:27 PM
Has anyone hear the inside info on a rough delivery date?

MarkyBoyMK1
31-01-2017, 11:25 AM
Modelsport is stating that expected stock dates are 7/02 for KD and 22/02 for KC.

Rozzy2005
08-02-2017, 02:07 AM
Today is the 7th Any word

david85williams
08-02-2017, 07:41 AM
Modelsport have changed the expected date to 15th Feb...

AmiSMB
14-02-2017, 09:40 PM
Changed to 17th Feb now

Hairy Spider
16-02-2017, 07:42 PM
Looks like the nice UPS man has got something for me for delivery tomorrow :thumbsup:

SiTrace
16-02-2017, 07:44 PM
I think shops have them in stock today!

s smith
17-02-2017, 12:50 PM
Green carbon?

Hairy Spider
17-02-2017, 02:47 PM
And yes, the carbon does appear to be green...

Hairy Spider
17-02-2017, 03:33 PM
And yes, the carbon does appear to be green...

I'm almost a little dissapointed, but the carbon isn't green :( It has a protective film...

AmiSMB
17-02-2017, 10:27 PM
I see from the pictures they are still putting the black wheels in. I have stacks of these that I do not use.

Hairy Spider
18-02-2017, 10:01 AM
Straight forward build. No issues with any of the parts :)

david85williams
18-02-2017, 11:08 PM
What's with the shock caps? I thought they were supposed to have bleed screws? They appear to have the feature there but need drilling through?

Martinst
19-02-2017, 08:19 AM
So for those that have received their cars, what are their thoughts? How much of an improvement is it over the kf2 ? I guess no one yet has had track time, but just first impressions.

AdrianH78
19-02-2017, 09:04 AM
So for those that have received their cars, what are their thoughts? How much of an improvement is it over the kf2 ? I guess no one yet has had track time, but just first impressions.

I think this one is a replacement for the SV2 rather than KF2 because it is designed for low grip. KF2 is a high to medium grip car I believe. KC is the replacement for the KF2 I believe:drool:

AdrianH78
19-02-2017, 09:05 AM
Straight forward build. No issues with any of the parts :)

Looks really great that. Did the trick rear allow hubs come with it?

DarkHawk
19-02-2017, 11:56 AM
What's with the shock caps? I thought they were supposed to have bleed screws? They appear to have the feature there but need drilling through?

What size hole needs to be drilled

david85williams
19-02-2017, 01:23 PM
What size hole needs to be drilled

I have no idea but I assume this is what you have to do to get bleed screw caps. There is no mention of this anywhere.

Mini
19-02-2017, 01:42 PM
They have bladders so are not emulsion shock caps. The hole is a vent I believe and as for drilling 😂😂

david85williams
19-02-2017, 06:28 PM
They have bladders so are not emulsion shock caps. The hole is a vent I believe and as for drilling 😂😂

There doesn't appear to be a through hole. So I'm not sure how they vent. From the outside there appears to be 2 screw holes. They would be pretty redundant if nothing was supposed to go in there.

knighthawk
19-02-2017, 07:49 PM
There doesn't appear to be a through hole. So I'm not sure how they vent. From the outside there appears to be 2 screw holes. They would be pretty redundant if nothing was supposed to go in there.

Not seeing these but it sounds like the early TRF Shock Caps
You had to drill these out as well

h0m3sy
19-02-2017, 10:28 PM
I'd imagine that alloy vented shock caps will be released as an option part as the set up sheet mentions sealed, aeration or vented but only sealed or aeration options are included in the kit.

Hairy Spider
19-02-2017, 10:55 PM
Hi All,

So I didn't race it today but I did give it a run indoors on medium/high grip astro. Obviously it is not intended for this environment however it was actually surprisingly good to drive and the rear end grip was phenomenal. Kit setup + I added a bit of weight to the front (15g under the servo + a shin splitter). The battery is in the forward position of the rear mounting position (i.e next to the front battery posts). My son Matthew ran it after he had TQ'd 4WD in pre-finals practice so I thought I'd video a few laps. Long story short, I only ended up with a couple of laps of video and my Son was still in 4WD mode however I thought I'd share it anyway...

heALxdkIAds


After this I moved the battery posts fully forward but only grabbed a couple of laps in-between finals. You could tell though that the car was ready to have the slipper tightened ;)

Looks really great that. Did the trick rear allow hubs come with it?
Thanks :) No :(

david85williams
20-02-2017, 01:54 PM
Michal's car appears to be fitted with screws in the caps.....

http://eos.redrc.net/2017/02/chassis-focus-michal-orlowski-13/

bish
20-02-2017, 05:11 PM
They look like the alloy ones from previous. The new ones are a plastic cap. probably easy to drill and tap.

mark christopher
20-02-2017, 06:01 PM
asked yesterday, just drill and add the screw, ill find out the hole size

david85williams
20-02-2017, 07:02 PM
I just drilled mine to 1.6mm. Seems fine.

Martinst
20-02-2017, 09:47 PM
Seem a bit poor you have to drill the caps. Are they better than the alloy ones ?

david85williams
20-02-2017, 10:57 PM
Yep pretty poor. I don't see what's the benefit of the new caps other then the mounting to the tower is a little neater. The top ball joint is very difficult to push on too. I'm tempted to fit the old style standoffs and aluminium bleeder caps.

I'm very pleased with the kit other then the caps.

knighthawk
21-02-2017, 07:51 AM
Seem a bit poor you have to drill the caps.?

I really don't see the problem here at all ?

With the older style if you wanted emulsion type shocks you had no choice but to buy £20 worth of Alloy Bleeder Caps

Now you have the option in the kit, all you have to do is to drill this small hole !:p

david85williams
21-02-2017, 08:25 AM
The kit should have included the small screw and seal though.

mark christopher
21-02-2017, 10:46 AM
The kit should have included the small screw and seal though.

So buy some screws and seals, or the old style alloy bleeder caps and top shock fixings :thumbsup:

david85williams
21-02-2017, 11:10 AM
So buy some screws and seals, or the old style alloy bleeder caps and top shock fixings :thumbsup:

I had some spares luckily. :)

Jez
26-02-2017, 10:55 PM
ran my kd yesterday at yorcc,first time out and my first ever schumacher 2wd that i've ever raced in 33 years in the hobby.i haven't smiled as much in a long time.so much rear grip and very easy to drive fast.loving it.

david85williams
27-02-2017, 07:38 AM
My KD also saw its first wet outing at TORCH. I was very impressed, very easy to drive and felt quick for me.

Jumping seem to been more tricky though, front end was always too high.

Jez
27-02-2017, 07:57 AM
My KD also saw its first wet outing at TORCH. I was very impressed, very easy to drive and felt quick for me.

Jumping seem to been more tricky though, front end was always too high.mine seemed ok on jumps,mounted speedo and receiver as far forward as possible.

mark christopher
27-02-2017, 11:30 AM
RE shock caps, you only need to drill a 1.6mm hole and fit a 2.5mm screw

david85williams
27-02-2017, 11:36 AM
mine seemed ok on jumps,mounted speedo and receiver as far forward as possible.

Ok maybe I will give this a try. It was however a windy day blowing head on towards the jump, I reduced the Gurney strip on the wing which helped a bit.

chrispattinson
27-02-2017, 12:44 PM
I think the new shock caps are excellent, an improvement over the alloy ones. The alloy ones would wear and get a bit of play in them, the plastic ones are a tighter fit, and shouldn't wear as much. If they do, they're a cheaper replacement. They seem just as strong, and judging by the effort to put them on, and the number of crashes I had at the weekend, they won't be popping off. Once fitted to the ball stud, the hole in the shock cap can be used to take shocks off for rebuilding, to limit the number of times you pop them on and off. Also, with them having the optional bleeder holes, they are multi functional, sealed or vented depending on if you drill them or not, so more options covered in the kit :)

Al3xis007
27-02-2017, 07:23 PM
My KD also saw its first wet outing at TORCH. I was very impressed, very easy to drive and felt quick for me.

Jumping seem to been more tricky though, front end was always too high.

Hi Dave
This is because the wing is further back than the kf/ kf2 as well as most 2wd's, you just need to cut it down a bit more than you usually would. Also I found racing mine yesterday that it needs some weight up front, 10g under the se go will help

Alex

ianjoyner
02-03-2017, 01:56 PM
Hi Dave
This is because the wing is further back than the kf/ kf2 as well as most 2wd's, you just need to cut it down a bit more than you usually would. Also I found racing mine yesterday that it needs some weight up front, 10g under the se go will help

Alex

The KD has the weight much further back than we could ever get with the KF2 which is great when the grip is very low. It's going to mean the front end will pop up more though. If your adding much weight the front, might be time to get the KC out.

bish
16-03-2017, 06:02 PM
So, you reckon the KD is a viable option in the UK on astro?

Treedudeben
16-03-2017, 06:21 PM
Does anyone know if the KD gear diff will fit the SV2?

AdrianH78
16-03-2017, 06:44 PM
Does anyone know if the KD gear diff will fit the SV2?

I don't think it will as standard; I believe the KD gear diff is the same as the KVR and SVR before that, and both are too wide for the gearbox housing...

AdrianH78
16-03-2017, 06:52 PM
That said, if you are handy with a dremel it is just about possible, although still very tricky to get a KVR/SVR gear diff to fit a SV2 gearbox having done it:thumbsup:

Not for the faint hearted either, and easy to make the components scrap as it is very marginal.

david85williams
17-03-2017, 07:43 AM
So, you reckon the KD is a viable option in the UK on astro?

Yes. Im very impressed with my KD on very slippery astro. Plenty of front and rear traction and easy to drive too. First signs of damp running with the KC I then swap to the KD.

mark christopher
17-03-2017, 09:57 AM
Ran mine at Worksop, which many run the kf/kc, moved the battery full forward, brass weight in front of chassis, stiffer rear oil, from wet astro set up, (400) rear was licked in and bit of understeer but extremely safe, and had my best 2wd result for ages there.

To me many club drivers will find this a far easier safer car to drive. May not be the quickest in fast hands, more time will get it even better, but now my damp car for astro

david85williams
17-03-2017, 10:38 AM
Ran mine at Worksop, which many run the kf/kc, moved the battery full forward, brass weight in front of chassis, stiffer rear oil, from wet astro set up, (400) rear was licked in and bit of understeer but extremely safe, and had my best 2wd result for ages there.

To me many club drivers will find this a far easier safer car to drive. May not be the quickest in fast hands, more time will get it even better, but now my damp car for astro

Plenty of steering running silver darts up front :thumbsup:

mark christopher
17-03-2017, 09:37 PM
Plenty of steering running silver darts up front :thumbsup:

impossible to do when your on control tyre of yellow mini pin indoors though

Oppy
28-03-2017, 11:30 AM
Anyone got a decent astro set up (starting point)?

Wolvie
28-03-2017, 01:06 PM
Stock pistons, tlr 32.5 rear and front oil,1.95 rear springs (avid) associated purple in front, -0,5 degrees camber, mini dart rear low profile cut stagger.
19 mm ride height .

Oppy
30-03-2017, 08:16 AM
Stock pistons, tlr 32.5 rear and front oil,1.95 rear springs (avid) associated purple in front, -0,5 degrees camber, mini dart rear low profile cut stagger.
19 mm ride height .

Thank you :)

Al3xis007
30-03-2017, 08:10 PM
Oppy

Blue core springs front and rear
Kit pistons (plus 1 extra drilled 1.1mm in the rear)
450 front oil, 350 rear oil
Standard links (front 1mm lower on inside)
Shock position
inner on wishbones (-1mm limiter in rear to prevent driveshaft coming out)
Medium rear wheelbase
Stock front wheelbase
Batteries middle position 20g under speedo

Seems to be pretty good so far.

Oppy
03-04-2017, 07:21 AM
Top man, cheers :)

Oppy

Blue core springs front and rear
Kit pistons (plus 1 extra drilled 1.1mm in the rear)
450 front oil, 350 rear oil
Standard links (front 1mm lower on inside)
Shock position
inner on wishbones (-1mm limiter in rear to prevent driveshaft coming out)
Medium rear wheelbase
Stock front wheelbase
Batteries middle position 20g under speedo

Seems to be pretty good so far.