KD/KC to KF2 SE comparison ?

[Novice]

How are you Schumacher guys finding the new KC and KD compared to the KF2 se ? Would be interested to find out from the team drivers or people who have had both . The kf2 se is looking a really good buy at the minute not that the KD is expensive by any means but the se coming down from over £300 to under £200 is very tempting . I am sure the KC/KD are "better" buggies in the right hands but do any of you miss your kf's , just asking for your opinions and experiences :).

[chris24jt]

not a team driver and not tried the kf2 se but the kf1/2 are not as good as kc/kd - depending on the surface, on slippy kd is amazing, kc in position 4 is good but kd is better. might just be going from worn car to new cars but they feel much better and easier to drive. but im sure if you had the kf2 se with motor as far back as possible there wouldnt be a huge amount in it - main difference would be motor spinning other way round which is an improvement on kc/d

[Al3xis007]

I drove a mates kf2 after our final on Sunday and it was still really good, I prefer my kc but it's my car/transmitter etc. He thinks there's not a lot in it.
The KD is definitely the best in the wet tho

[mr_timm]

Not a team driver.

Have put a few hours on both kf2 (carbon chassis mostly ) and KC ( mostly carbon chassis pos 2 motor but have done some back to back runs with KC in pos3 - with metal chassis for latter).

Not exactly the best driver tbh but started 4 months ago so learning on the way. Running at SHRCCC / DMS / EPR and once at Stotfold (in the dry the pos2 KC is actually really nice at Stotfold).

Pros for KC particularly

Shorter / tuneable front wheel base options on KC are nice.
Revised front wishbone for KC good also - feels better back to back KF2 vs KC.
Easy options for moving rear suspension front and rear mount on KC also a bit easier vs KF.
Front wing option for KC.
Diff height change possible for KC. Plays a bit against the option Alu rear hub carrier with the brass insert but it's there.

Negatives:

Ball diff in the KC is brass outdrive. It's a bit softer and wears faster vs the version on the KF.

Battery height option LCG works well for more motor forward. But it's a bit odd for the motor rear options. The weight feels more rear loaded. Have tried LCG and standard shorties on Pos3 back to back and definitely more predictable with standard shorty battery (weight around 200g balanced for LCG with brass Wright below lipo).
KD with LCG was pretty hard to drive with the amount of rear bias which was less severe when switching to standard shorty for the KD.

The plastic or carbon bits on both which people tend to change out - front bulkhead and steering link. Maybe rear link holder. Those bits and pieces add up and you end up close to a yz2 price which has more alu parts in the kit from the off.

Some parts such as carbon chassis and conversion kit have taken a long time to come available.




Most guys if they have the KC have been running it in position 4 from what I've seen at those tracks. It copes pretty well with wet astro - As such the KD does seem to be overkill unless you are really running on very slippery terrain or dirt. Worth noting also that the KD is noticeably slower on acceleration and the gearing options more narrow vs the KC.

Getting at the diff on the KD is poor vs KC which is pretty much done with 6 top access screws (4 top bulkhead and 2 for the belt tensioner).

Personally I wouldn't go for the KF2 now unless picking up a bargain 2nd hand (sub 100£ now). KC is good option if you can stretch it.

Do be wary of aerosol painting the kc / kd shell. A few people (me included) have cracking on the shells. So keep the rear mount and consider velcro to try and avoid cracks. And paint brush the shell if you can.




Rider on all this is that fast guys are fast no matter what they drive. Go for what gets your interest / what will not make you feel like something is holding you back half way thru the season.

[mark christopher]

Sorry but why would you think the out drives are brass?

They are definatly not brass they are steel plated try a magnet on them, magnets dont pick up brass

[mr_timm]

Read it somewhere on spare parts listings.

Seems more prone to wear vs the diff on the KF.

[AdrianH78]

£200 for a fresh new car with pedigree sounds like a good deal to me.

Whether to go for it depends on both budget and standing within the hobby perhaps? i.e. if you've only been racing 6 months to a year and still learning the ropes this is a good buy. Likewise if you're a budget club racer, especially on grippy EOS carpet, this could be a good buy.

£200 is not a lot more than most second hand 2wd rollers which are likely mostly tired and in need of a lot of repairs.

[Novice]

It's not really a "should I buy one or the other" , just want to know the opinions of one compared to the other if you see what I mean .

[matt]

I've gone from a fk2 to a kc via a b6. The kc come with the option to run the shocks on the rear out of the box while the kf2 would need the alloy gearbox top option that would bump the price up. The kf2 also benefits from 5 degree yikes that the kc comes with as standard. I did see a lot of people swapping out the multi plate slipper for a more standard setup on the kf2 so also something to look at. Also its nice on the kc that you don't have to cut away the sides when going to the lowgrip layout.