Tamiya 2WD Mid-motor Conversion

[pangracer]

I thought of retiring my DF-03 and DT-02MS after more than a year of using both as my R/C learning machines. Taking the rear-end of a Tamiya DF-03 and the front-end of a DT-02MS and combining them in a narrow 4" chassis made from fluted aluminum door threshold, I am now about to finish my 2WD mid-motor conversion. I am still figuring out how the saddle pack will be secured and would appreciate suggestions. Gearing is 82/26 and will be powered by 13.5T brushless motor. Wheelbase is around 268mm. Here are some photos of my project:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020944.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020942.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020946.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020952.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020953.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020954.jpg

[till]

hey it´s a very cool idea but next time don´t do it with a tamiya, take a Asso or a Losi!!!

[annie_himself]

I wanted to do that with my 501x. Good job.

[91notch5.0]

EXCELLENT BATTERY LAYOUT!!!!!!! i've been waiting for someone to do this.

[pangracer]

Thanks a lot for the encouragement though I am limited to conversion parts from my pile of broken DF-03 and DT-02 parts, I was able to finish last night the wiring. Space is limited for the electronics so I decided to install the reciever below the antenna holder and the ESC high above the motor compartment. Just awaiting for a new front upright then test drive this weekend. Check out these links:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020976.jpg

Using velcro cable ties to mount the saddle pack bats
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020977-1.jpg

Tight fit for the battery and electronics, maybe a narrow body???
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020978.jpg

The ESC gets better cooling and looks realistic but may not be well protected in case of car turning upside. :confused:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020980.jpg

[pangracer]

Here is the bottom view of the aluminum chassis
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020983.jpg


I decided to make Version 2 starting from a good DTR-02 plastic tub chassis:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020986-1.jpg


In Version 2, I reconfigured the battery layout into side by side so that it is not too front heavy, moved the ESC behind the steering servo to protect it.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020987.jpg

The wheel base is 270mm. The layout for electronics are too tight in this configuration but all are the lowest CG. I am still cutting the material for the battery strap.

Would much appreciate your comments:)

[qatmix]

I think it looks great! Would like to see it all configured and running :)

[pangracer]

I actually assembled the componentswith the plastic tub Version 2 of my conversion found out that there is too much flex in the battery section due to the absence of stiffener. My target is to lower the CG as much as possible with a uni-body chassis uysiung plastic only components. To correct the flex issue, I build up a lower battery tray to stiffen the center section of the chassis.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1020988.jpg

Features of the Version 2 Chassis with build-up parts are:
- lipo saddle pack battery trays from DF03 battery cover making the chassis stiffer.
- center channel as wire ways for ESC and Servo cables into the hidden reciever behind the batteries. Wirings will be clean and away from source of noise.
- 2 center located mounting posts for the battery clip added additional center bracing for less flex.
- additional side bracing both visually pleasing and functional.

I am ready to reassemble the components and make additional photos in the process.

[pangracer]

Finally, the finished product.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1030007.jpg)http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1030002.jpg

[pangracer]

With the battery pack connected. I still have chassis flex with the plastic tub chassis so I decided to take the DF03 steering link and turnbuckle to serve as compression bars between the front end and the gearbox frame. It may not be conventional but it looks good to me with the hope that this can be also used as tuning component of the conversion.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1030007.jpg

[pangracer]

The DF03 rearend is mounted on top of a built-up DT02 chassis. This is where I spent so much time as the alignment is critical to the concept., I learned that I did it hte hard way and my next version will have to be cut and paste/splice instead of cut and built-up. Note that the DT02 chassis retains the original footprint with wheel base of 270mm.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1030004.jpg

[big air]

Good job mate have you had a run out with it yet.
what does it handle like :D:D

[pangracer]

In order for the turnbuckles to be effective in reducing flex, it must have a straight line profile front to rear. I made initial run today on pavement and I am very satisfied with initial result, quick on 82/26 gearing with 13.5T brushless, lots of steering and no wheelie on full throttle. I still have to test it offroad though with my friend being the better driver doing the full eval.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1030011.jpg

[qatmix]

that looks great :)

[91notch5.0]

yes, that looks great.

[blue hornet]

that is cool dude, i am thinking of just taking the shaft and frond gears out of a df-03 to make it 2wd, did you try this?????
i have the dt-02 and it is ok but the lack of slipper and limited gearing(though i did dremil the motor mount so it takes 17, 18,19 and 20t pinions) made me give up on racing it, but might try it again.