Schu kc build upgrades needed

[yokomoyz2]

Hi
So I’m building a schu kc
And I’ve got all alloy upgrades
But what I want no is there any other things you guys change on the kit setup .
Like
Turnbuckle ends??
Shock cap. What bleed system fitted is best.
Any shiming or sanding down to stop any rubing or clearances

All help will be great feedback
Cheers

[Allan1875]

Hi
So I’m building a schu kc
And I’ve got all alloy upgrades
But what I want no is there any other things you guys change on the kit setup .
Like
Turnbuckle ends??
Shock cap. What bleed system fitted is best.
Any shiming or sanding down to stop any rubing or clearances

All help will be great feedback
Cheers

Out the box the car needs very little work. Personal preference for shocks is using the bleed screw, it will be better over bumps than a bladder shock.

I switched out some of the captive joints for a ball stud but off the top off my head I couldn't tell you which without looking at my car.

[AmiSMB]

Here is what I do:


Change the plastic servo horn for an aluminium one as the plastic one will strip on a hard impact. If you do this make sure you are running a good metal geared servo

Change all orange o-rings in the shocks for the blue pro o-rings for less stick-tion

Drill out the bleed hole in the plastic shock cap with a 1.9mm drill and use a M2.5 x 4mm socket button screw

Change the slipper pads for AE ones as I find them more consistent

Use the newer slipper spring (gold in colour) this should be included in newer kits

Change the 83T spur for an 82T and then run a 6.5 with 21T pinion so it is similar to the way I ran the KF2 with a 76/24

Change the front and rear camber link turnbuckles for longer ones

Put standard non captive ball and ball end on rear camber link which goes onto the rear hub otherwise the wheels tend to rub on the captive one.

Run LCG Shorty lipo with 36g brass underneath

Always run the brass weight at the front underneath the servo

Ultra long ball stud in the rear shock tower to space rear shocks 2 to 3mm further forward

Put in metal washers around the yoke and steering hub carrier to eliminate any slop.

Use a small amount of nail varnish on the inside and outside faces of any bearing on the car to increase the tolerance fit so that the bearing has to rotate rather than rotating in its housing and ends up seized as it has not moved. Also improves any slop especially axles into hubs. You can do this with super/tyre glue but it is too easy to use too much and to put the bearings in before the glue has dried so it is now stuck, so nail varnish is safer.

Carbon chassis with carbon and alloy stiffeners, 5 degree yoke, stiff wishbones all round, 4/1.5 degree toe in blocks installed for 1.5 degree rear toe when on carpet indoors or kit 3/2.5 installed for 2.5 degree rear toe on dry astro increase to 3 degree max is more lock in is needed in the rear, 2 to 3mm limiters inside the shocks, 600cst kit piston orange spring front 500cst kit piston blue spring rear reduce the oil by 50cst outdoors, shock tower front mounted, gear diff with 7k to 12.5k oil depending on track, motor in position 2

Alloy chassis with carbon stiffeners, 0 degree yoke, medium wishbones all round, 3/2.5 toe blocks installed for 3 degree rear toe and use 3.5 brass rear toe block or +1 alloy rear hubs, KD kit pistons with 300cst oil and green springs all round, shock tower mounted rear, ball diff, motor position 4 when outdoors on wet/damp astro


The only items I would change that could break in a race are

Alloy steering centre track rod
Alloy steering hub carrier
Alloy yoke in 0 or 5 degree


Spares to carry are the usual

Screws
Belts
Diff
5x10x4 bearings
Wishbones front and rear
Hinge pins inner and outer
Plenty of tyres as this can make the biggest difference


HTH

[daz75]

Wow that's a quality post :thumbsup:

[jpmatrix]

Where’s the like button👍

Most comprehensive advice ever😲

[Allan1875]

Here is what I do:


Change all orange o-rings in the shocks for the blue pro o-rings for less stick-tion - The blue o-rings tend to leak, leave as kit.
Change the 83T spur for an 82T and then run a 6.5 with 21T pinion so it is similar to the way I ran the KF2 with a 76/24 - Don't really see the point in this, not required.
Change the front and rear camber link turnbuckles for longer ones - Don't see any requirement for this either, the kit ones are fine.
Run LCG Shorty lipo with 36g brass underneath - This depends on many things like layout and surface you are racing on.
Always run the brass weight at the front underneath the servo - As above, surface dependent, should not be run everywhere.
Put in metal washers around the yoke and steering hub carrier to eliminate any slop. - Not necessary, every car has slop and this makes changing setup more time consuming. Quick clips are very handy.
Carbon chassis with carbon and alloy stiffeners, 5 degree yoke, stiff wishbones all round, 4/1.5 degree toe in blocks installed for 1.5 degree rear toe when on carpet indoors or kit 3/2.5 installed for 2.5 degree rear toe on dry astro increase to 3 degree max is more lock in is needed in the rear, 2 to 3mm limiters inside the shocks, 600cst kit piston orange spring front 500cst kit piston blue spring rear reduce the oil by 50cst outdoors, shock tower front mounted, gear diff with 7k to 12.5k oil depending on track, motor in position 2 - Some of this is accurate but not all. Carbon chassis won't work on every surface, for example on a bumpy surface, carbon chassis tend to make cars very inconsistent. Position 2 is also only good on carpet, on a sandy astro it won't be good, so Pos 3 or 4 is required. Specific setup needs to be adapted per track and can't be covered by a catch all setup. This goes with the shock limiters too. If you limit them too much on bumpy surfaces, car will not be good to drive. That amount of limiters you have quoted is only really good for a flat surface. Refer to team setup sheets as a guide on shock shaft length.
Alloy chassis with carbon stiffeners, 0 degree yoke, medium wishbones all round, 3/2.5 toe blocks installed for 3 degree rear toe and use 3.5 brass rear toe block or +1 alloy rear hubs, KD kit pistons with 300cst oil and green springs all round, shock tower mounted rear, ball diff, motor position 4 when outdoors on wet/damp astro - See above.


HTH

Please see above. The bits I don't agree with I have annotated. This isn't a criticism, it was a very well thought out and helpful post and I just don't want anyone getting the wrong information.

[AmiSMB]

My post was not supposed to be the be all and end all or one size fits all, but hopefully people can take some useful information from it.

What I will say though is that the pro o-ring trick was shown to me by a well known Schumacher team driver and he did my shocks for me at the Belgium GP and it made a massive difference. This sort of thing is not specified on setup sheets so when you see their oil weights it may not be the same when you fill your shocks.

The standard length of all the upper camber links are too short for my liking as I like to have more thread inside the plastic especially when running long links otherwise in a hard crash you will find the ball ends jumping threads meaning the camber settings will need to be changed for the next run.

Maybe I should have also mentioned that I also wrote the post with the fact that I have two KC cars one in pos 2 for carpet, dry astro and the other one is in pos 4 for sandy/damp low grip conditions. This helps as there is no way you could make all the required changes to one car if the track conditions change during the days racing. Hope that puts the post more in context.

A couple of things I forgot to mention and you can take it or leave it and that is:-

Put an o-ring underneath the ball stud which does two things and that is it keeps dirt getting between the plastic ball end and the ballstud, usually do this to the wet car, it also pushes the ball joint away from the ball stud slightly which can help eliminate slop which is a problem with the standard plastic ball ends.

If you have issues with sloppy standard ball ends which also pop off easily then I change them for Losi HD ball ends

[MartynSpooner]

How are people building their gears differentials these days?
Are people still removing two of the four gears?

Just building up a new kit and wondered where to start.
There's never a mention on setup sheets if people are or are not removing the gears etc.

[Allan1875]

How are people building their gears differentials these days?
Are people still removing two of the four gears?

Just building up a new kit and wondered where to start.
There's never a mention on setup sheets if people are or are not removing the gears etc.

No one in the team removes any gears.

[AmiSMB]

In Belgium a Schumacher team member from the UK (North :) ) showed me the remove 2 gears setup with 30000cst oil and it made the car easier to drive than a full 4 gear diff. It is a good option when you do not want to go all the way to a ball diff. Again this is always track and condition dependent. I always have a few different diffs setup so I can swap them quickly trackside to see if I like the way it changes the car. Usually go 2 gear then to ball diff to make the car easier to drive when the track has lower grip levels.

[AmiSMB]

I really like the Hudy tuning priority guide mentioned on RC Tech (http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3741/11863849713_967f26aa97_o.jpg) which can help when you are unsure what to change on the car to get the desired change that you are looking for.