Durgla diffs

[TRF_Tastic]

Right then chaps, had a couple of issues with the rear diffs on the durga, destroyed two so far, not good, so have been advised to change the outdrives out for 501 items, just about to complete this. So my question is will this cure the tendancy for the diff to explode at a moments notice, if not there will a nice hardly used durga for sale!!

[DCM]

yes it will...... why?

Right, with the Dirk Digler diff's, you have to glue the diff plate onto a plastic holder. Whilst this is fine up to about a 19t/10.5, any more power, and the heat that builds up in the diff is to great, so the glue cracks. When this happens, the diff starts to slip, between the holder and the plate. Extra heat happens, and oooops, there goes your diff.

With the 501X outdrives, the plates stay on far better, no need for glue etc.....

[jimmy]

you're not going to have a problem with 501X diff in the back - and if you're melting a front Durga diff you're an ANIMAL!!! :thumbsup: I don't think it's really worth changing the front, only the rear as that gets the most stress.

[steveproracing]

when i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown one
as for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to do
the answer is simple
use 501 outdrives
use 10 ceramic balls
2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)
use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up
use tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.
then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut covers
i ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prep
i have never blown a tamiya diff building this way
ps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

trust me it works:thumbsup:

[Crazy L]

I'm gonna have to try this, I've just blown a 2nd pulley in as many outings, rubbish, and they were tight.

I can't find the 501 diff halves anywhere, they're like rocking horse nuggets.

[Crazy L]

Please help

I rebuilt my rear diff a few months ago using 501x halves, waiting for ceramic balls, but, built it, ran it, checked it, adjusted it etc.

Ran it for the 1st time on sunday, so thought i'd check it over, glad I did, balls are AGAIN starting to migrate through the pulley, 3rd one :mad::mad:.

WTF am I doing wrong, I've never had this problem, could it be the 5.5r bolted in, or am i just crap at adjusting this diff?

[A.J. Gee]

You will be all set and very happy with the 501x out drives as everyone else has mentioned. Good luck:lol:

[Crazy L]

I rebuilt my rear diff a few months ago using 501x halves

You will be all set and very happy with the 501x out drives as everyone else has mentioned. Good luck:lol:

Er......you may have missed something in your haste to post a reply ol' chap.

I adjusted the diff correctly, and they still melt their way through the pulley, this sucks big time. It's not like I'm bloody new to this, mantaray, XX, XXT, XXX, predator, B3 etc, they've all had ball diffs and not once have I destroyed a diff gear, untill Durga ownership, that's 3 mullered in 6 months.

[dimblum]

Please help

I rebuilt my rear diff a few months ago using 501x halves, waiting for ceramic balls, but, built it, ran it, checked it, adjusted it etc.

Ran it for the 1st time on sunday, so thought i'd check it over, glad I did, balls are AGAIN starting to migrate through the pulley, 3rd one :mad::mad:.

WTF am I doing wrong, I've never had this problem, could it be the 5.5r bolted in, or am i just crap at adjusting this diff?

It's not your motor. I have been racing a Durga with a Novak Ballistic 6.5T and have had no problem with the diffs.

A chewed up pulley has almost always related to the diff being too loose. Other possibilities are:

1. Wrong grease used to build the diff. Both the thrust bearing and the diff plates and balls need a coating of -diff grease only-. Other greases allow the diff to move too freely and can cause them to slip and grind.

2. Diff build backwards. This has been a hot topic ever since the DB-01 was released. A diff built backwards will loosen very quickly :o

3. Thrust bearing has failed or is jammed up.. A bad thrust bearing will prevent the diff from properly operating and result in similar problems to the diff being built backwards.

Hope this helps.

[DCM]

I have ran, since last year, 501X diff halves, and not done a pulley, that is using a 5.5 and a 6.5 idoors and outdoors.

[Hog]

I melted a rear pulley at Petit RC this year and had to spend the rest of the meeting being very cautious with the old left thumb.

Since then I've fitted 501X diff halves and ceramic balls and not had a problem since, and that includes ragging a 5.5 Novak motor round EPR and other grass tracks.

Just got to make sure your slipper is set right that's all.

Talking of which - is there a suitable replacement spring for the slipper? Mine seems a tad soft and difficult to adjust - it's all or nothing and could do with something with more tension.

[jimmy]

Losi BK2 diff spring is the one people use for the 501X - Tamiya make an exact copy of the spring for the 511 kit but I'm not sure how easy it is to get hold of.

[Hog]

Thanks Jimmy - I shall source one of those then.

[Crazy L]

I know this may seem weird, but the stories of people building the diff round the wrong way, how exactly is that done, you follow the manual, how hard can it be? + they're handed and can go in only one way. I dont see the problem :confused:.

Just waiting for my ceramic balls. If I still have problems, I'll never know. Here's how i've previously set up the tranny: I've had slipper set for slipping for couple of feet hard on standing start, had diff set for no slippage, the old allen key in outdrives and turn gear by hand trick. Hows that?

[DCM]

there is a step in the build, where the diff is flipped, and if your not paying attention, can get missed.

[Crazy L]

yeah, I saw that, it shows which end the screw goes in from. It's not a mistake I've made for sure.

[Fat Corgi]

Which ceramic balls does everyone go for on their rear diffs? Any links would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'll be removing the diff rings from the stock DB01 diff halves, do you reckon they will be okay to transfer straight on to the upgraded metal ones? I used some CA to attach them during the initial build. Or should I start looking for new ones of those as well.
Cheers

[Spoolio]

Which ceramic balls does everyone go for on their rear diffs? Any links would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'll be removing the diff rings from the stock DB01 diff halves, do you reckon they will be okay to transfer straight on to the upgraded metal ones? I used some CA to attach them during the initial build. Or should I start looking for new ones of those as well.
Cheers

I got some ceramic balls from ebay off a seller in France, they were cheap but the problem was they came in funny quantities so I had to buy (I think) 3 packs and then you get quite a few left over but frustratingly not enough for a diff rebuild. Just search 3mm ceramic diff balls. I also took my diff rings over to the new 501X halves and my CA glue luckily came off quite easily with a few picks from a craft knife - I think the heat had made it go brittle. If you can't get them dead smooth though then best get some replacements, they are only cheap but sometimes go out of stock with every supplier all at the same time.

[T4miy4 Guy]

when i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown one
as for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to do
the answer is simple
use 501 outdrives
use 10 ceramic balls
2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)
use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up
use tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.
then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut covers
i ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prep
i have never blown a tamiya diff building this way
ps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

trust me it works:thumbsup:
I Use this method and it works fine!:thumbsup:

Andy

[Fat Corgi]

Okay,
So I've got the some new ceramic balls, diff rings and metal diff halves. What do people use to attach the rings to the diff halves? I am assuming you down glue or threadlock them? Secondly, the thrust bearing that lives inside this assembly, how do people orientate that bearing. The flat edge closest to the centre of the diff, or away from it?
The are as many opinions on how much you need to tighten the nut on the diffs, is there a consensus?
Lastly, do people put the balls in the 3 extra holes in the diff pulleys, or just around the outer ring (12 holes).
Thanks

[DCM]

Balls round the outer holes only
Place a smear of diff grease on the diff halve to keep the diff plate in place.
The inner hole of the thrust bearing, one side is radiused, that goes to the head of the diff screw.
If it is a new diff spring, compress in a pair of pliars, if not, tighten diff till it won't slip, bed diff in, test and adjust as necessary.

[dimblum]

Okay,
So I've got the some new ceramic balls, diff rings and metal diff halves. What do people use to attach the rings to the diff halves? I am assuming you down glue or threadlock them? Secondly, the thrust bearing that lives inside this assembly, how do people orientate that bearing. The flat edge closest to the centre of the diff, or away from it?
The are as many opinions on how much you need to tighten the nut on the diffs, is there a consensus?
Lastly, do people put the balls in the 3 extra holes in the diff pulleys, or just around the outer ring (12 holes).
Thanks

I followed Tamiya's requirements for my DB-01 diffs (with the 501X halves) and have never melted or damaged anything. As a matter of fact my diffs have been problem free and I run a Brushless Novak 6.5T when I race.

Here are Tamiya's answers to your questions:

1. Use diff grease to attach the rings to the diff halves. The rings will not slide against the halves. The metal will create it's own friction under pressure.

2. I think I know what you mean about the thrust bearing. It should be inserted with the flat edge away from the center of the diff so that the head of the screw has the most surface area to grip onto the thrust bearing.

3. There is no need to put additional diff balls in the three extra holes in the pulley. Those holes are reserved for attaching a front one-way.

4. The Tamiya method for tightening the diff has been mentioned before in the forums. Tamiya shows this method with a slightly confusing diagram in the DB-01 build manual (shows the diff with two parts locking the arms - an arrow - and a "X" symbol). Basically you put two small allen keys between the slots in the diff arms, hold the diffs in your hand (grabbing the allen keys to lock the arms in place), then you try to rotate the pulley toward you. If you can rotate the pulley while the diff arms are locked in place, then it is too loose. Keep tightening the diff screw until you can no longer turn the pulley by force.. This is about perfect for your diffs. Overtightening can be bad, so stop once you can no longer turn the pulley, then insert the diffs into your DB-01.

Hope this helps.

[Fat Corgi]

Thanks again guys.

[94eg!]

Here is an illustration from another Tamiya manual to help people visualize the process. It's the same with a pulley or gear. Keep in mind you will need to check & retighten after a run or two cause the diff rings will wear in...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p53/94eg/rc/difftightening.jpg