First Run of DB01 with Novak 6.5R and slipper

[wongy008]

i need help guys.

i think i found a related thread
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19752

but i am seriously not impressed and thinking why i bothered. I'd always been a nitro guy but the brushless seemed fun at the time but seriously doubting why i wasted all the money now

basic set up. DB01. slipper clutch and Novak 6.5R system. Running this with a Reedy 5000 MAH 20C lipo pack. the car is purely for bashing

initially i though what the heck is that it. the speed and acceleration was crap:thumbdown:. Im using the 23t pinon so firstly should i be using the 17T

after a few mintues up and down then Bang no drive to the rear when i inspected what was wrong

took the car home and took it apart for inspection and this is what i found
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/wongy008/DSC02360.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/wongy008/DSC02361.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/wongy008/DSC02362.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/wongy008/DSC02363.jpg


is it worth getting the damaged replacement parts or is there uprated items

i dont really have a clue and dont follow the scene. i just want a reliable car for bashing

with my current set up what kind of speeds should i be expecting in mph !!!!

i would say my car was running 24mph max

please help

[rowanp25]

looks like the rear diff was doing the slippers job! was the rear diff slipping at all?

[jimmy]

Not sure about mph - I clocked the fastest of the absolute fast cars on the main straight at Bury Metro (outdoors) at 28mph. But that's a race track.

Your problem isn't a big surprise - I fixed a diff like that the other week at bury indoors. The problem is because your diff is slipping / plates are slipping on the plastic (read, crap) holders. This is fine if you're running a mild motor - but a 6.5 isn't really a mild motor and I'd reccomend a 501X rear diff.

Looking at my review it's clear I broke the rear diff on the third race meeting - I only wrote up the first two races in the review. On the third one of the diff rings came loose and would have fried the rear diff like yours if I'd have carried on. I put a 501X diff in the back which I always ran after that. The front diff is NO problem.

Your centre pulley is worn becaue of the rear diff melting - these big pulleys are very good so that's not your problem. Having said that - if the teeth look worn then you have to replace it I'm afraid.

To sum up - 501X rear diff halves... straight swap and bullet proof.

This car is a racer - very strong and very good drivetrain for the most part. The rear diff is a weakness with hot motors but easy to upgrade really but you always need to be aware of the ball diffs and belts - and if it's not moving like you expect (slipping) always stop and check it out.

[i4n]

It looks to me as if you didn't have the diff tight enough (which would also account for the lack of acceleration as you were probably only FWD). I did something similar on my XXX-CR when I first got a brushless set-up (melted 3 diffs before I swallowed my pride and asked for help).

I ran my Durga with the standard diff and a Losi 6.5 in it for a few months before upgrading to the 501 diff halves with no problems (only did it to be safe during a rebuild when I also changed to ceramic balls). With the power you get from the 6.5 you want to do the diff up tight to stop it slipping (that's the job of the slipper) but as DCM points out in the other thread, not too tight that you 'crack' the glue holding the diff rings onto the outdrives.

It also looks like one of your belts was set too lose and slipping judging by the marks on the centre pulley (but that may be from where the diff destroyed itself).

I'd give it another go, when you adjust the diff it should be tight, but still smooth to turn when using the wheels when installed in the car. Bed it in by holding one wheel and running at 1/4 throttle for 30 seconds and repeating on the other side and then re-adjust and it should be fine. I also check that they haven't loosened by holding the front set of wheels between my knees and trying to turn both rear wheels in the same direction at the same time and then reversing to try the fronts.

I'm sure one of the other Tamiya guy's will offer some advice in not too long a time... (while I was writing my reply!)

[DCM]

I agree with Jimmy here.

Replace diff halves with 501X parts on the rear, new pulleys and balls, and whilst your at it, might as well do the belt and small pulley, make sure the belt tension is good. Run it for a couple of minutes, then check the rear diff, if all ok, should be fine, but you would need to just check that rear diff degular.

[wongy008]

firstly thanks for the quick responses guys

im really quite annoyed as this happened on its very first run and i was told by many people and reading lots of reviews the car is strong and bulletproof

there is lots of mention of diff slippage. what is this exactly?? the diffs seem pretty securely put together. can someome please describe this behaviour in more detail??

should i be running the 23t pinon or 17t pinon

there is mention of getting 501x rear diff and 501 diff halves i take it these are the same thing. where can i get these and has anyone got the part number so i dont order the wrong thing

how much should i be looking at in £

should nthe car be explosive as fast with 6.5 R, i would say after first run it is definatley slower than my mini inferno 09 which is stock !!

[DCM]

17-18t on a 6.5

The diff plates are glued in place on the DB-01, which is great when you have little load on them, but when you put a 6.5 in it, the loading on the rear diff is significantly higher, so the glue ends up cracking, the plates then start to slip, everything heats up, and then you got a molten mass in the rear pulley.

with a 6.5, it should be pretty rapid, but chances are, your rear diff was slipping at the start, so stunted acceleration due to it slipping.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I suppose tungsten or ceramic diff balls might help also.
Doesnt the stock steel diff balls generate more heat?
My 501x diff did the same thing before, because it was loose like his.
I switched to tungsten and have not had any more issues.

[wongy008]

thanks for the response guys

i am having trouble getting a supplier for the 501 rear diff halves
can someone point me in the right direction

also whilst i am at which what other upgrades will be worthwhile for reliability
the car will be used purely for bashing

where do i order tungsten or ceramic diff balls?? and part numbers ??

cheers

[Eddie168]

Hi wongy you could get the 501x diff halves form Brock models but i don't think they are in stock at the moment
I got a set of ceramic diff balls from here http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=3157 they seems to be quite good hope this helps :)

[wongy008]

I am looking into the ceramic diff balls and they are very expensive:confused:

My main aim is to have a relaible DB01 for bashing. Will i really benefit from having them installed

also i have managed to get one 501 diff halve from a uk supplier and it was suggested to get a 36T front diff to take some additional load off the front

this a good or bad idea??

[jimmy]

You don't need any fancy balls (!) in the 37 tooth pulleys - I never did and never had a problem. The smaller 501X original diffs had a lot more strain and ceramic balls certainly helped there. So no - absolutely not needed.

[DCM]

they are not needed, they are nice to put in, but like Jimmy says, not needed.

[dimblum]

Not much else I can add that hasn't already been said. The Durga is an awesome car once it is dialed in correctly.

A decent inexpensive set of ceramic nitride diff balls can be bought from JAAD Racing (each set of 12 balls will replace the balls for one diff) - http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/product/...roduct_id=54309 (http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/product/details.is?x=y&product_id=54309)

Here is a link for the ceramic nitride thrust bearings as well - http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/product/...roduct_id=53980 (http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/product/details.is?x=y&product_id=53980)

These are the ones I have been using for months on the track. They have been bulletproof and are still perfect after a few diff inspections.

Hope this helps.

[wongy008]

right cheers guys

i think i will leave the diff balls for now

i have a 501 rear diff half waiting to go on the car. How tightly should this be done up. as tight as i can physically do it without breaking the diff pulley??

i have new centre pulleys too. just waiting for the 37t diff pulley from a different supplier

i will fit 501 rear diff halves to the front as a precaution when the supplier restocks them

talking of supplier. Daves Rc models is highly recommended by me. order yesterday and i received the items today. so fast and efficient

when i rebuild the db01 should the belts be set up as tight as possible too

would it not be easier for somone to release a locked diff or would this have a detrimentle effect on the handling

[DCM]

you tighten it up till, when holding the rear wheels still, and the slipper locked up, you can't turn the spur gear with your thumb.

[A.J. Gee]

Another way to tighten it to it's maximum potential, is to tighten the screw as tight as it will go and then back off about 1/8 of a turn. Maybe back off a bit more since you will be using steel balls for the pulleys. A half turn back from as tight as the screw will go. You will be good to go bro. Trust me man, i had the same problems until i switched to the 501 diff plates. I melted 2 or 3 of them. It didn't bother me to much, as i enjoy working on and doing repairs for my cars.

[wongy008]

i am about to install the diff halves. but what so different about these compared to the standard db01 ones?? besides being one piece

do i just use the diff halves or will i still need to use BG8 diff plate from the db01 with the install

sorry if these sound like stupid questions:bored:

[jimmy]

yes, you still use the diff plates. The difference is the proper support the metal provides - also the metal-on-metal contact stops the plates from spinning even without glue

[wongy008]

cheers for the advice guys, everything is here now

hopefully it will be ok. install will be tonight and hopefully ill have a reliable db01

otherwise ill put the lot for sale

[DCM]

when you build the diff, and assembled the rear end, run the motor up to about 15%, hold one rear wheel for 10 seconds, then hold the other side for 10 seconds, this should bed everything in, turn the car off, and re-check the diff, it may need nipping up, then should be ready to rock and roll

[Spoolio]

Wongy, I'll just "manage" your expectations before you get too excited. Fitting the 501X parts is not a fit-and-forget exercise, you will still need to bed the diff in and adjust it initially or else it will probably go loose after a few minutes just like any other. Its not the fault of the car, it's part of the ball diff design. Mine needed a fettle after 5 mins running, then again after a full meeting but have not been touched since.

[wongy008]

update

car just been ran with no issues :thumbsup:

ran for about 10 minutes and i have just had to re-tighten the diffs

on acceleration i can hear the diff slipping which i assume is normal on original slipper clutch 3mm setting or can it be tightened for less slip

it seems i have to feed the throttle in slowly to build up speed or the clutch just slips

will using a 23t pinon overstress the drive train and motor??
As recommended by DCM im using the 17t pinon but its not quite as fast as expected once up to speed i mean its fast just not as fast as everyone seems to say it will be

There is a vid on youtube of a guy running a 8.5 brushless in the db01 and this seems a lot faster then mine

any ideas

[jimmy]

Not sure what the kit slipper settings are suggested but with a decent motor on high grip the spring needs to be nearly fully compressed to stop it slipping. I ran my slipper loose enough to slip a little - probably tighter than you have it I guess tho.

I assume you meant slipper - not diff right? - your diff should never slip.

[wongy008]

well i had just been running the car up and down the road outside the house

i mean i could hear the slipper clutch slipping.

the diff's are fine. done up very tightly almost max. i would say 1/8 turn from fully tightened

so if it its high grip i should set the slipper tighter??

[DCM]

you will learn what feels right, diff wise.... but if the slipper is slipping, tighten it up so it just slips on the initial few feet of hard acceleration.

If you are just messing in the street on tarmac, then you can gear up, but if you race, you will kill the car with heat if you over-gear it.

[wongy008]

30 minutes of bashing and the car remains intact:D

usind 23t pinon now and the car id very fast but the motor gets a bit hot

what the best thing to do to keep the speed up but making running a bit safer for the motor. its too slow on 17t pinon

all i had to to was tighter up the rear diff a bit more when i got the car home for a quick inspection

car is phenominal on gravel and short grass. loads of fun. standard set up is perfect for casual running and bashing. car is so stable and handles bumps excellent

thanks for all the advice and help guys

[DCM]

you can go down a couple of teeth on the pinion, and open up some of the vents on the shell too.

[dimblum]

30 minutes of bashing and the car remains intact:D

usind 23t pinon now and the car id very fast but the motor gets a bit hot

what the best thing to do to keep the speed up but making running a bit safer for the motor. its too slow on 17t pinon

all i had to to was tighter up the rear diff a bit more when i got the car home for a quick inspection

car is phenominal on gravel and short grass. loads of fun. standard set up is perfect for casual running and bashing. car is so stable and handles bumps excellent

thanks for all the advice and help guys

I ran some gearing math for your Novak 6.5 using gearchart.com.. Novak motors are my favorite since Novak provides the recommended ratios for each motor and which type of car it is being used in..

The sweet spot gearing with the stock 91T spur is a -19T- pinion. Novak recommends a 10:1 ratio, and this gearing gets you to 9.84:1

The motor should run about 48MPH unloaded with this gearing.. Actual speed will be slower due to traction, drag, weight, etc..

This gearing should let you run the motor at its best efficiency without overheating.

Hope this helps.

[hypnolobster]

I have a Durga with the Novak 6.5 and a slipper (which is only because the 5.5 wasn't in stock and I'm impatient :) ).
I've driven it a fair bit since I installed it and nothing has gone wrong except breaking some parts in crashes.

However, I've only driven on concrete and occasionally gravel. I suspect that running in grass or anything with massively varied grip would put a whole lot more wear on the diff.
I really do need to upgrade to the 501 rear diff before I actually melt it.

[wongy008]

I ran some gearing math for your Novak 6.5 using gearchart.com.. Novak motors are my favorite since Novak provides the recommended ratios for each motor and which type of car it is being used in..

The sweet spot gearing with the stock 91T spur is a -19T- pinion. Novak recommends a 10:1 ratio, and this gearing gets you to 9.84:1

The motor should run about 48MPH unloaded with this gearing.. Actual speed will be slower due to traction, drag, weight, etc..

This gearing should let you run the motor at its best efficiency without overheating.

Hope this helps.

cheers for doing that. i tried using the gear chart but its far too complex for me to follow

what is the difference between the 23t im running and 19t. how much difference in acceleration and top speed

currently its fast enough to keep me entertained but any slower ill be bored:blush:

will hitting sweet spot just increase longtivity of motor ??

[dimblum]

cheers for doing that. i tried using the gear chart but its far too complex for me to follow

what is the difference between the 23t im running and 19t. how much difference in acceleration and top speed

currently its fast enough to keep me entertained but any slower ill be bored:blush:

will hitting sweet spot just increase longtivity of motor ??

Wongy,

Happy to help.. The 'sweet spot' will both increase the longevity of the motor and ensure that you get maximum performance for the longest amount of running time (since you are not likely to overheat the motor).

I will admit that I have overgeared on purpose even after doing the gearing math. The first motor I used was a Novak 17.5 so I could qualify to race in the "Stock" class at my local track.. Each race is only 5min long, so I overgeared a bit to get a little more top speed.. So long as I kept my runs at 5min, my motor did not heat up very much.. 8+ minutes and it would get pretty warm.. So sometimes it is OK to push your motor a bit so long as you watch it closely.. But knowing which pinion is best to start with saves a lot of guesswork.

Your 23T pinion gives you a theoretical top speed of 58MPH, which is pretty darn fast. I have always wondered what the acutal speeds turn out to be once the motor is under load.. I currently do not know a way to measure accelleration using a math formula.. You get instant torque with electric motors, so your top speed can usually be reached in a second or two if you are running on pavement.

---

I made a quick walkthrough for anyone that wanted to use gearchart.com. This should make it alot easier:

This will help you target the -sweet spot- for gearing so you can get the most out of your motor without overheating...

NOTE: The most important thing to make this work is that you have a good idea what your motor "RPM" is and also what the target "Gear Ratio" is for your motor. High end companies like Novak provide this information (as do other brushless motor (http://www.rcuniverse.com/buynow/keywordclick.cfm?bid_id=6252) manufacturers). I found it harder to find this info for brushed motors...

Lets get started with a "real world" example for my Durga when I ran a Novak 17.5 brushless for Novice and Stock racing:

1. First lets go to www.gearchart.com (http://www.gearchart.com/) and click "Gearchart Creator" on the upper left side of the screen
2. The "Select an RC Car" pulldown menu does not have the Durga, DB01, etc.. So select "Pan Car (10/12th scale)" and we will fill in the blanks
3. The "Transmission Ratio" is 2.055.. It is the same for "ALL" DB-01 cars.
4. Next enter your "Spur" and "Pinion" sizes.. I switched to an 81T Spur gear and 31T Pinion gear when I installed my 17.5 Novak since it was better suited for the slower motor
5. The "Plot Spur/Pinion" option with the "Middle" setting is fine.
6. Now click the "Gear Ratio" button.. The chart it builds will have key information to see if you will -burn up the track- (yeah) or -burn up your motor- (bummer).
7. In my case I needed to know what Novak recommended as the Gear Ratio for my motor.. I went onto Novak's website and pulled up their gearing recommendations: http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/brushless/br_gearing.html
8. It showed that a 4WD (my Durga) should target a "6" (or 6.00) gear ratio with their 17.5 motor.. My Spur and Pinion combo put me at "5.37" so I was a little overgeared for their spec.. I wanted to push my motor a little bit for more speed, so this seemed fairly safe for a shorter 5min runs.. If I wanted to be right on spec with the Novak chart, then I would gear down to a 28T Pinion since that would be "5.94" which is super close to 6.00..

Ok, so this told me that I'm not likely to turn my motor into a -molten ball of fire- by pushing it too hard.. Now I wanted to get a ballpark on how fast my car might go..

9. The next part was "Rollout".. Rollout tells you how far your car will travel per motor revolution.. My Tire Diameter (measurement from one side of the tire to the other) was 85mm. It will likely be the same for you and most tires you will run..
10. Keep the "Increment" setting at "1mm" and click the "Rollout" button
11. I got "49.73", yipee!! What the heck does that mean.. Well, its telling me my Durga has the potential to travel 49.73mm every time the motor completes one revolution. That's about 1.9 inches.. This isn't too exciting yet, but it will help us get our MPH in the end..
12. The last part was the "Motor RPM".. This is important and requires as little guessing as possible to get an accurate number.. I consulted the "Novak Brushless Motor Spec Chart" to figure this out: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/motor_spec_chart.htm
13. The chart says that I am running 2200Kv (or RPM per volt) for my 17.5 motor. I'm using a 7.4v lipo (http://www.rcuniverse.com/buynow/keywordclick.cfm?bid_id=6083), so I multiplied 2200 * 7.4 to get "16280" which is my max RPM.
14. I entered 16280 as my RPM and clicked "MPH".. The chart showed I had the potential to go 30.2 MPH.. Not bad for a 17.5 Brushless running with pretty safe gearing for short racing runs..

Hope this helps.

[wongy008]

shortly before you replied i managed to find you post on another forum so had a play with figures

im now wanting a 5.5R but not sure how the drivetrain will hold up

speed wise on the 23t i would say a little over 30 mph. which is ok i guess

:thumbsup:

thats only a guess, its pretty rapid and it would seem i have the slipper set up perfectly now

[dimblum]

shortly before you replied i managed to find you post on another forum so had a play with figures

im now wanting a 5.5R but not sure how the drivetrain will hold up

speed wise on the 23t i would say a little over 30 mph. which is ok i guess

:thumbsup:

thats only a guess, its pretty rapid and it would seem i have the slipper set up perfectly now

Excellent :D I'm glad I could help..

I imagine the drivetrain can take a 5.5.. I've seen Durga's run with a 6.5 without any problems..

I'm switching over to an 8.5 for the track I run on.. Anything faster is basically overkill since it is a mid size track with lots of turns.. Other 4WD guys dial down their faster motors just to maintain control..

Its amazing how much power and speed the low turn motors can dish out. I just wish we had a huge track to take advantage of their full potential.

[Blackbeard]

I use an EZrun 5.5t in my Durga (6000kv) with the kit 23 pinion that came with the car, and it's plenty fast with good torque.

The biggest difference I noticed was when switching from NiMH to LIPO. Seriously, it was like I'd put a rocket booster on the rear :thumbsup:

[Spihc]

I would really appreciate a part number for these diff halves/diffs, I have been trying to locate them but with no luck.

Care to help out a novice?

[jimmy]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TRF501X-DIFF-JOINT-TA-51286_W0QQitemZ170328749302QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20 090506?IMSfp=TL090506122005r15420


You can find them for about 12usd if you shop around. I doubt it's something you'll find in the UK but I could be proven wrong, I've no idea if Tamiya UK even bring parts in for this car.

[Spihc]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TRF501X-DIFF-JOINT-TA-51286_W0QQitemZ170328749302QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20 090506?IMSfp=TL090506122005r15420


You can find them for about 12usd if you shop around. I doubt it's something you'll find in the UK but I could be proven wrong, I've no idea if Tamiya UK even bring parts in for this car.

Thank you for the help!

I would like to know one thing only.

How come the diff halves can prevent the diff pulley from melting. For my own logic (which might not count for much here) the solution would be to replace the diff pulley to a better material as I cant see how new diff halves would save the original pulley if it's crap.

Is it just me?

[Spihc]

To continue my rant here.

From the looks of it, the diff halves for the 501x, are made of a different material?

On the DB01 diff halves there are the metal plates I glued on them. Are they eliminated from the 501x diff halves?

As I said, I dont understand how changning the diff halves could solve a problem caused by heat, produced by a "wear and tear" where the steel balls frictions against the steel plate... That is asuming the steel plates should be used on the 501x...?!?!?!

Someone wise could answer this.

[built2scale]

Spihc, I wonder the same. I don't have answers as I am a beginner and just destroyed my pulleys (in another thread). I saw a 501x manual from online and the difference I saw was on my Durga, plate is glued onto a plastic piece which is held in place to the diff joints. The 501x shows a "one piece" diff joint and which the diff plate is assembled next to, no glue. Maybe the fact that the diff plate is in place allowing to spin/turn freely? I don't know.

[built2scale]

Here's a pic of the 501x that I saw and a close up of the diff joint of the 501x over at Racing Factory.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9331/501xl.th.jpg (http://img14.imageshack.us/my.php?image=501xl.jpg)

http://www.racingfactory.fi/products/SPAREPARTS-Tamiya-TRF501XDurga-parts/51286-TRF501X-Diff-Joint-100853

[Spihc]

bullit2scal,

Just checked the 501x manual as well, and if the BF10 part (diff plate) for the 501x is still made of steel, as the DB01 one is, I dont see how on earth the "one peace" diff joints would solve the problem of the diff heating up to much causing the diff pulley to melt.

The only possible solution to the problem for me would be the following.
1. Assemble everything correct.

If that dont help.
2. Replace the diff balls to another material with less friction/heat development.
3. Replace the diff pulley to a more heat resistant material.

Hopefully someone who has more information then us newbies come's to our rescue and explains it to us, hehehe.

*********Edit*********
Should I try and remove the glue on the diff plates on the original diffs? To try and easy up the load of the rear diffs? Atm I dont know if my diffs are damaged, but I have heard a "slipping" sound at strong acceleration in the last run. Will deasemble it tonight to see how they look.
********/Edit*********

[jimmy]

Spihc - I think you're missing what's causing the problems as described here. The rings slipping on the plastic holders is what's causing problems, removing the glue will simply guarentee your diff will melt.
The 501X diff halves are better because the rings have more friction on the metal diff half and won't slip - so won't cause failure.

Assemble things properly and run the car - if you're racing or want to beef up the car then get the 501X diff halves for the rear of the car, sorted.

[DCM]

I agree with Jimbo, up to a 10.5/19t, the rear diff is fine, if built correctly (my three kids abuse there's enough, and they are still fine after 18 months), if you intend to race or put some more power through, for reliability, use the 501X one peice outdrives.

The reason why the diff melts, is the diff ring slipping on the plastic holder. This overheats the diff, which then melts the pulley. The 501X diff halves hold the plates in place, with no glue, they don't get warm, so don't melt the pulley (as long as they are set correctly).

[Spihc]

Jimmy, DCM.

A big thank you.

Now I understand not only what I need to replace, but also why It's necesary, I did miss the part with the 501x diffs having more friction.

I am using a 13*2 GM Evo II motor. With the motor I got a print out from a machine, like the dyna tune but it's in german so I cant tell whats what, 3 readings of rpm on it, 45137 rpm, 19105 rpm and 29558 rpm... and a bunch of watts. No matter, I guess I have a powerfull motor so I'll be forced to replace the rear diff.

Once again, thank you.

[cjm_2008]

I used a sicky yesterday to finish building my durga :)

well - I say finished... I've still got to cut out and paint the baldre shell that arrived on monday. and reading the threads about melted diffs makes me think I should be swapping the stock diff halves for the 501x items (already got them, just can't be arsed to swap!).

can anyone recommend a pinion size for a 10.5? I think the 23t kit pinion is a bit on the large side.

steve, if you're free tommorrow am / lunchtime, pop up to llandow. I'll be there doing some kart testing :)

[jimmy]

23t gives you 8.1 overall - looking at the Novak website and their gearing guide suggests 8.0 overall ratio for their 10.5 in a 4WD buggy, so going by that the 23t pinion is a good starting point.

[DCM]

I used a sicky yesterday to finish building my durga :)

well - I say finished... I've still got to cut out and paint the baldre shell that arrived on monday. and reading the threads about melted diffs makes me think I should be swapping the stock diff halves for the 501x items (already got them, just can't be arsed to swap!).

can anyone recommend a pinion size for a 10.5? I think the 23t kit pinion is a bit on the large side.

steve, if you're free tommorrow am / lunchtime, pop up to llandow. I'll be there doing some kart testing :)

I shall be going up to Talywain, dude, 4wd national for me, on Sunday, woop, there is a space in 4wd now...

[cjm_2008]

If I wasn't in devon all day sunday i'd be popping up to talywain too. i've still never seen a brca 1/10th offroad national event! should be good, especially if the weather sorts itself out, which is likely.

thanks for the info jimmy, i'll use the kit pinion. should be fairly quick. I was going to go and get a 6.5 but it seems like overkill when I'm only doing the odd club meeting.

[DCM]

the car will run far better, outdoors, on a 6.5 or 7.5, indoors, as long as you aren't pushing too hard, a 10.5 will be ok.

[Jay29]

alright mate what was the code for those diff halves you got.

[Jay29]

alright mate im new to this to , what was the code for those diff halves you got and where did you get them from. cheers