View Full Version : Cat 2000 Setup help
Conrad
08-03-2009, 09:37 PM
I'm after a little help in setting up an original (upright shocks) Cat 2000. First time racing the car competetively indoors today for about ten years and a few old memorys came flooding back, namely its crap over rumble strips compared to the EC that replaced it or other buggys.
Setup is straight out of the box, 30wt oil front and rear, grey springs (AE shocks), dunno what piston. Long wheelbase, cells to the rear, one way layshaft, standard top link and shock mounting positions and -1.5' camber all round. Racing indoors on carpet with mini spikes, there was some understeer entering the corner off throttle but the main issue the car being badly unsettled over the rumbles.
mpg200
09-03-2009, 08:28 AM
I also run an origional CAT2000, but its skill that hold me back:blush: My current setup is using standard shocks with the solid 3 hole pistons, yellow springs all round 30wt front and 40wt rear. I'm not sure what top links i'm using but can say that the grey springs on the rear would make the back kick up on rumble strips and the yellow seem to make it a bit better
Bomberpilot
11-03-2009, 10:00 PM
Howdy
i drove the cat2000 when it was new.
The car with the upright shocks went well on the very soft white schuey springs of these days...
The camber links have to look as similar as possible in lenght and angel f/r
Raising the outer ball of the front link then gives more steering, use a m3 nut, some kyosho ball cups and a 25-30 mm screw for that.
Greetings from switzerland
Maurice
Conrad
12-03-2009, 06:21 PM
Thanks for the tips, the car came under some scrutiny after my post and i discovered the setup is nowhere near where i thought it was or it should be. After much head scratching, reading the manual and reading up alot online about shocks and pistons i have a new base setup which i will start with.
The car will be returned to a more standard setup, middle hole on the wishbones fr + rr, the top links have been lengthend and are in the top inside hole (rears are still alot closer to the wishbone than the fronts on the tower side), the low hole is now used on the rear hubs. The rear shocks have been moved from hole 3 to hole 7 on the tower, fronts still in hole 3. The shocks will be rebuilt with grey springs, 30wt oil and losi red pistons for the front and the rear will be yellow springs, 35wt oil and blue pistons (at least until i change my mind on oil and pistons again). It was running AE2, 30wt, grey all round before with AE shocks.
White springs? Thats soft. Does anyone remember the spring ratings for the old spring kits? Think i might have the sticker somewhere to tell me, maybe not though...:eh?:
Conrad
13-04-2009, 09:15 PM
A little update, i ran the car as mentioned in my last post yesterday apart from yellow springs on the front, white on the back and 4+2 battery layout for equal side to side balance. The car as a s*** lot better over rumble strips and landed well off the larger jumps, i'd say it was slightly quicker than the xx4's i was racing against over the rumbles :D Never ever managed that before.
Biggest problem i had was getting on the power, anytime i came close to rubbing the throttle all of the weight was transferred to the rear and i lost all steering. It was like i needed droops screws on the front to limit the travel and keep the weight over the front or harder rear springs, neither of which i wanted to do as the car would be worse over th rumbles.
Didnt have time to try alot of things yesterday but after some consultation with the manual today i have a few things to try for next time, Less rear toe-in, long wheelbase, grey/yellow springs and a bit less ride height and droop all round.
rowanp25
13-04-2009, 10:28 PM
maybe a degree of antisquat as well may help keep it flatter.........id maybe tempted to run grey rears and blue fronts run as low as you dare n should stick like glue from what i remember
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