TRF501X Tips

[Patpop01]

Hi,

I am struggling to get following items setup correctly.

- Slipper : Are there any tips on how to determine when it is to thight/loose ? How to setup the slipper up correctly ?
- Diffs : How thight do you have to set the diffs ? Any tips when building them ?
- Pinion : I have changed my pinion several times, from 14T to 18T running a 5.5 LRP X11, but there is no noticable change in temp. How can I determine the correct pinion to use and how do you guys keep your engines cool enough ?

I suppose these are questions many people wonder about, so I thought why not start a theath, that can be used as a reference.

Thanks.

[3975dave]

Which pulley and spur are you running for the gearing??

[Patpop01]

The standard 501X WE spur and pulley. Hope this helps.

[3975dave]

I ran a Nosram equivalent 6.5 yesterday in my Durga on a 20t pinion with no worries. That gave a final ratio of 9.328 with kit 91t spur. The 501we from the chart has a 96t spur so the nearest ratio and pinion would be 9.371 on a 21 pinion.

Running a 5.5 I would start on a 20t pinion and keep an eye on the temp.
Here is a link to the chart. Hope it makes sense.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/cars/501x/db01-501xworlds-gearchart.pdf

[Patpop01]

Thanks Dave,

I'll try you suggestion on the pinion. I was kinda confused since last time I asked this question I was doubting which one to use.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19085. DaveG28 said he started out on a 15T and finally got to a 17T.

Do you use any kind of heatsink on your motor ? Or have the bottom undertray cutout near the engine ?

I heard from a guy at my club your should set up the slipper by placing a wrench key in the pinion screw and rotate both front wheels. This results in the key getting stuck against the aluminium. You should then adjust the slipper till it just doesn't slip when further rotating the front wheels. Does this make any sense, or is there another way to set the slipper ?

Regards.

[Balders]

Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.

I've never heard of adjusting a slipper by putting a driver in the grub screw of the pinion and rotating the wheels. Can't see that doing anything other than possibly testing the front or rear diff to see if it will slip... I'd ignore that method if I were you mate.


:)

[3975dave]

A heatsink will certainly help if you have heat issues! Is it a tight or open track? That will make a difference to the gearing you can run. Also from your last post in that thread you mention that you run the speedo on setting 5 instead of 1-3. If 5 is giving more power this will generate more heat.

[DaveG28]

Thanks Dave,

I'll try you suggestion on the pinion. I was kinda confused since last time I asked this question I was doubting which one to use.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19085. DaveG28 said he started out on a 15T and finally got to a 17T.

Do you use any kind of heatsink on your motor ? Or have the bottom undertray cutout near the engine ?

I heard from a guy at my club your should set up the slipper by placing a wrench key in the pinion screw and rotate both front wheels. This results in the key getting stuck against the aluminium. You should then adjust the slipper till it just doesn't slip when further rotating the front wheels. Does this make any sense, or is there another way to set the slipper ?

Regards.

I'm now running 17/87 gearing on a 5.5 by the way!

[3975dave]

That seems pretty close so give it a go. Just keep an eye on it till your sure.

As for your diff and slipper settings its just a case of feel. Set the diff first with the slipper tight and then back of until it gives enough slip for you. Dont run the slipper to loose though as you cause melting issues with the pads.

[WHITTLER555]

I am running an X11 5.5 with a Sphere speedo and lipo. I run a 18 tooth pinion with a 96 tooth spur gear and it is plenty quick enough.

[Patpop01]

2 Balders : <Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.> It should be a way to test the slippage in the slipper, not a way to tighten or loosen it :) Of course that is done with the nut loool :)

2 3957dave : It is a technical astro turf track. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq7vLehHMqU&feature=related I had already set the power profile on the speedo back to 2, since my last post.
Is there a way to determine if a diff is thight enough ?

2 daveg28 : I'll use a pinion then that will bring the ratio as close as possible to 10:1. I am a bit confused. Is it better to go slightly over the ideal 10:1 or better under ?

Thanks once more.

[MotoRev]

I am running an X11 5.5 with a Sphere speedo and lipo. I run a 18 tooth pinion with a 96 tooth spur gear and it is plenty quick enough.

What Lipo's are you running? I used that combo at the weekend and it thermalled after four mins and canned my Lipo's:(

[Hairy Spider]

The 501we from the chart has a 96t spur

Standard worlds spur is 91T. Original 501 was 96T.

[knighthawk]

For the diff's,

Tighten the screw right up then back off 1/4 turn

Slipper,

From a standing start, full acceleration, it should slip for approx 1meter



I've been setting cars up with this method for years and haven't had diff's melt or slipper pads burn.

This is only my opinion though and different motors / track conditions etc effect the slipper, this should always be setup at the track. 9 times out of 10 the diff's shouldn't have to be touched once built

[DaveG28]

2 Balders : <Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.> It should be a way to test the slippage in the slipper, not a way to tighten or loosen it :) Of course that is done with the nut loool :)

2 3957dave : It is a technical astro turf track. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq7vLehHMqU&feature=related I had already set the power profile on the speedo back to 2, since my last post.
Is there a way to determine if a diff is thight enough ?

2 daveg28 : I'll use a pinion then that will bring the ratio as close as possible to 10:1. I am a bit confused. Is it better to go slightly over the ideal 10:1 or better under ?

Thanks once more.

I would always err on higher, so greater than 10:1. I'm also using an x12 which I think likes lower gearing than the x11. Are you having temp problems? Mine always run hot, but I find the 5.5 lrp's pretty flexible on gearing in as far as still being fine speed wise at high gearing!

[shanks]

Hi,

I am struggling to get following items setup correctly.

- Slipper : Are there any tips on how to determine when it is to thight/loose ? How to setup the slipper up correctly ?
- Diffs : How thight do you have to set the diffs ? Any tips when building them ?
- Pinion : I have changed my pinion several times, from 14T to 18T running a 5.5 LRP X11, but there is no noticable change in temp. How can I determine the correct pinion to use and how do you guys keep your engines cool enough ?

I suppose these are questions many people wonder about, so I thought why not start a theath, that can be used as a reference.

Thanks.

Hi

Slipper too tight - under full accelaretion from a standstill it will not slip - a locked slipper like this usually means you will loose the back end coming out of bends under full power - a slipper absorbs power so its not so abrupt (exaclty same principal as a clutch on a real car - without one you would just stall the engine)....too loose it will slip like mad - car wont accelerate too well - same as a real car with a knackered clutch!



Slippler should slip for a metre under full acceleration from a standstill on a high grip surface - adjust it until it does.

To test whether diff is tight enough (tight enough means slipper slips before diff) - lock all wheels by putting car on the ground - turn the spur gear with you finger (may have to press hard) it will slip on the shaft..(between the pads).

If it dosnet slip on the shaft i.e. you are turning spur and the shaft- then the diff must be slipping so tighten a little...(assumming slipper is not locked totally)

Read the gearing chart for your motor (get it off web-site if you dont have) it will give you a final drive ratio.

Then using a 501x gear chart - available on here you can see which pinion to use...every motor requires different gearing

ps LRP's in mine and my friends experience run very hot....

[WHITTLER555]

What Lipo's are you running? I used that combo at the weekend and it thermalled after four mins and canned my Lipo's:(

Hello, I have run that set up at all the Nationals last year with NIHM's and I have just completed the first National at Talywain using the same set up and I swapped to Demon saddle pack 4200mah 35C lipo's. I also only have a bonded rotor in the 5.5.

How slack do you run the belts? I used to have heat problems until I slackened the belts right off, however I have it set so that they do not skip. This has really freed up the drivetrain and so far no problems.

I run the car with both vents cut out of the body and use an undertray.

I would really like one of those Aszerashi bodies but I can't find anyone who sells them?

If you race in the NW or NE come and find me and I will take a look at your car.

[DaveG28]

Hello, I have run that set up at all the Nationals last year with NIHM's and I have just completed the first National at Talywain using the same set up and I swapped to Demon saddle pack 4200mah 35C lipo's. I also only have a bonded rotor in the 5.5.

How slack do you run the belts? I used to have heat problems until I slackened the belts right off, however I have it set so that they do not skip. This has really freed up the drivetrain and so far no problems.

I run the car with both vents cut out of the body and use an undertray.

I would really like one of those Aszerashi bodies but I can't find anyone who sells them?

If you race in the NW or NE come and find me and I will take a look at your car.

Think rc direct may have those shells in again now?

[chokoboy]

Think rc direct may have those shells in again now?

Or u can order them directly from www.team-azarashi.com (http://www.team-azarashi.com) super fast shipping and service!

[DaveG28]

Or u can order them directly from www.team-azarashi.com (http://www.team-azarashi.com) super fast shipping and service!

I don't think they ship to the UK though, they can't as they have distributors (DMS and RC-Direct if my memory serves), can check on their eBay site to be sure though!

[Patpop01]

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions. :)

[AaronR]

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions. :)

HPI 75115 4.3mm ball studs and Losi LOSA6015 ball cups work well together!

[Patpop01]

I must thank you guys once more...

Had the car out on the track today, and boy, does it flies :).

I had a problem with the diff once more after a 2 minute run, seemed the lock nut had been broken. Heard from someone that putting an extra 2mm, no-lock nut in first and then the lock nut, would greatly enhance the stability of the diff (no need to worry anymore about damaging the lock nut), since the force is now distributed over two nut instead of one. So I rebuild my diff using this methode and I must say, you can really thight it down now. (locking it fully and turning back a 1/4 of a turn)

Next I found out that I had set the slipper to tight. After loosing it up, the fun began :). This is the first time I really felt what the car is able to, and I must say I love it :).

I do hope that people stuggling with the same probs I had, can get some usefull info in this theard, thanks to the help from all you guys.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I'll be ordering these parts soon for my worlds edition car.
I dunno why these say Db01 whenever they are the 511 parts
#53970 Dust Protector
#54140 DB01 Reienforced Drive Belt
#54141 DB01 Front Lower Arms
#54142 DB01 Rear Lower Arms
#9949350 RC 2x25mm capscrew
#9464083 Screw bag D
#9804310 2.6x5mm screw

Stupid that you have to buy the entire screw bag for the diff nuts.
Because the old number in the manual doesnt exist anymore.

[WHITTLER555]

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions. :)

I run the front belt so loose ou can push it down and with your finger on it it is below the top motor screw. I have just checked and you can twist both belts 270 degrees. However they do not slip under acceleration, I also run a one way diff in the front.

Hope it helps.

[bender]

B-Mag, the reason why many of these parts say for the DB01 is because they were released as hop-ups for that car.

Also, you don't need to order a whole bag to get the 2mm locknuts - Tower in the US have a couple of different ones (including Tamiya):

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWME8&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGKE8&P=7

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Thanks bender, I looked at your website and I'm very impressed with it.
I wonder if the 511 top decks will fit my car also, maybe not?

[Fredrik Emilsson]

I do not think that the 511 top decks fit the 501X. 511 has new bulkheads.

Take a look at this:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=87535&id=13377

By the way, I ran my 511 on a bumpy 1:8 track with a lot of big jumps. I think the new suspension arms (high traction ones) can take a lot of abuse. I was impressed.

[Patpop01]

Hi B44&TRF501xRacerEx,

Just found out they also sell the diff screws and nuts together as a whole. You get two nuts and two screws per bag. Tamiya number : AO-5014.

Take a look at this site for a uk distributor.
http://www.davesrcmodels.co.uk/shop/article_115/AO-5014---M2-x-25mm-Bolt-%2B-Nut-Set.html?shop_param=cid%3D5%26aid%3D115%26

I ordered mine from racingfactory in finland (www.racingfactory.fi (http://www.racingfactory.fi)).

Hope this helps....