Cat S1

[MiniGaz]

Should be picking one of these up tomorrow and just wanted to know if it would be worth me swapping the turnbuckles for the ti ones i've got on my 3000.

[trekkerkk]

yes do there not quite the best,

trekkker

[MiniGaz]

Nice one, will do. Is there any other little things that need doing to improve reliability and/or performance or is it pretty much solid from the start.

[trekkerkk]

its good from the start,
medium flex front wishbones maybe.

trekkker

[DomRC]

I've just got one too - what's the benefit of ti turnbuckles other than weight? Do the steel ones break?

[stegger]

I've just got one too - what's the benefit of ti turnbuckles other than weight? Do the steel ones break?
Not sure on these but on other cars i've had steel ones bend :o go for lunsford turnbuckles :D Deffo also go for the MED flex wishbones, and i'm not biggin up myself but you can get a front brace that will save you bending the front suspension screws and blocks ;) http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25151

[DomRC]

Nice one cheers!:thumbsup:

[BlackedOutMugen]

its good from the start,
medium flex front wishbones maybe.

trekkker

Yup! Thats about it:lol:

[DomRC]

Finally got my S1 running last night indoors to sort steering out etc and had a few teething problems that it would be good to get some advice on please....

1) Per my other electrics thread, it seems the proximity of the servo (Ds1015) to the digital receiver (Futaba 203HRS) as they're bunched up in the Cat is causing the servo to twitch through interference, and occasionally the wheels move to. Is this a Cat SX problem in general due to the layout with lipo, or is there something you can do?

2) I had to turn the steering EPA adjustment right down as the servo was moving far further than the steering links' maximum throw, causing everything to bend a bit. Is this the right thing to do? With my Losi XXX-CR I was told that EPA needs to be at the Max to get full servo throw, but that doesn't seem right here.

3) At full lock each way, the steering links/turnbuckles are hitting the turned up sides of the undertray on each side - seems like a design fault by Schumacher and the tray will need to be cut - do others encounter that problem or should I be reducing the EPA further so that the movement is confined to the area before the undertray?

4) I used to own a ProCat (my last experience of belt driven cars), and the Sx (S1) transmission / belts seem much 'tighter' under acceleration - tight as in there isn't much freedom for the transmission/wheels to spin freely when you let go of the throttle. In fact, when you run the car very gently it makes a fairly harsh buzzing sound. Is that normal or do I need to adjust the diffs from how they come out of the box?

Cheers :thumbsup:

[DomRC]

Can nobody offer any wisdom? :cry:

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Can't offer much in the way of answering your first question since only trial and error with moving things around will solve that. I've not had any issues (touch wood) with my Spektrum DSM2 with Futaba S9451 but I always also run a power cap as I used to have issues with the servo glitching under full load in my previous 4WD.

However as follows

2) Yes - turn the EPA down so that the servo doesn't 'over throw' the linkage. If you don't it can cause undue loading on the servo motor and, with the strength of today's servos, could place undue stress on the steering linkage.

3) Trim the under tray slightly - set the car up to achieve full locak as above and if it catches under any movement of the suspension travel, trim the tray.

4) I do run my rear belt quick loose. I found that the kit instructions (mine's one of the original LiPo cars), the belt setting was too tight for my liking. Set it up as loose as possible but no clicking under acceleration. Also, running Diffs in the low position makes the car easier to drive over the bumps.
Front belt will be tighter cos of the additional roller to clear the lipo pack. Again, run as loose as possible but it will appear tighter than the rear belt.
Lastly - the belts will appear tighter that the ProCat - especially the centre one since the pulley diameters are smaller. This doesn't appear to be a problem in use though.

HTH

[DomRC]

Can't offer much in the way of answering your first question since only trial and error with moving things around will solve that. I've not had any issues (touch wood) with my Spektrum DSM2 with Futaba S9451 but I always also run a power cap as I used to have issues with the servo glitching under full load in my previous 4WD.

However as follows

2) Yes - turn the EPA down so that the servo doesn't 'over throw' the linkage. If you don't it can cause undue loading on the servo motor and, with the strength of today's servos, could place undue stress on the steering linkage.

3) Trim the under tray slightly - set the car up to achieve full locak as above and if it catches under any movement of the suspension travel, trim the tray.

4) I do run my rear belt quick loose. I found that the kit instructions (mine's one of the original LiPo cars), the belt setting was too tight for my liking. Set it up as loose as possible but no clicking under acceleration. Also, running Diffs in the low position makes the car easier to drive over the bumps.
Front belt will be tighter cos of the additional roller to clear the lipo pack. Again, run as loose as possible but it will appear tighter than the rear belt.
Lastly - the belts will appear tighter that the ProCat - especially the centre one since the pulley diameters are smaller. This doesn't appear to be a problem in use though.

HTH

Cheers Andy - sending you a PM and hopefully see you at EPR soon :thumbsup: