Lazer zxr

[HKS_TRD]

Hi James

I managed to pull the knuckle arms out during the week but couldn't get the hexes off to look at the bearings, but managed to do that today, they were really on tight an ended up snapping the threaded shaft on one of the UJs when using two nuts as a locknut ....

Anyway, the bearings are flanged, no spacer in the middle and have regular 10mm OD and normal width (4mm IIRC) so nothing special should be easy to get.

Glad I removed the knuckles from the hubs I didn't realise they had metal inserts for the threads which is nice, are they still available new?

One thing you are going to need is a spacer for the knuckle as they are not as tall as the OT-16 and are a very loose fit in the C-hubs, or maybe you have different hubs to mine.

I need a favor from you James, when next you speak to Stephen at Fibrelyte can you find out what is going on with my order

[kek23k]

I think Fibrelyte have some staffing issues at the moment because one of them was in an accident recently, probably going to delay all orders for awhile.

[Welshy40]

I think Fibrelyte have some staffing issues at the moment because one of them was in an accident recently, probably going to delay all orders for awhile.

Yup, i did mention this a while ago, its a 3 man team and he cant use his right hand / arm due to his bike crash. Luckily he only had that considering how bad an accident it was.

[Welshy40]

Hi James

I managed to pull the knuckle arms out during the week but couldn't get the hexes off to look at the bearings, but managed to do that today, they were really on tight an ended up snapping the threaded shaft on one of the UJs when using two nuts as a locknut ....

Anyway, the bearings are flanged, no spacer in the middle and have regular 10mm OD and normal width (4mm IIRC) so nothing special should be easy to get.

Glad I removed the knuckles from the hubs I didn't realise they had metal inserts for the threads which is nice, are they still available new?

One thing you are going to need is a spacer for the knuckle as they are not as tall as the OT-16 and are a very loose fit in the C-hubs, or maybe you have different hubs to mine.

I need a favor from you James, when next you speak to Stephen at Fibrelyte can you find out what is going on with my order

Dan,

Sorry mate for messing you around - the bearings sizes, i need the exact width dimensions from one side of the flanged edge to the other and would summise the bearing sidewall Is 10mm across and inside as 4mm.

Yes metal inerds on the king pin screw holes and no havent found any new ones, from what i gather they only did a limited run of these. Mine were given to me by a Racer mag writer but he couldnt find the bearings. I will space out as you recomend but is very easy to do as all you need is the washers section that comes with a part for the zxs as on that you can raise or lower the knuckle arm.

I will call Stephen on Monday & find out where they are with your order but would guess its been delayed a bit.

[HKS_TRD]

Hi James

Checked again with the calipers and my memory was correct the bearings are 4mm width from outside of one surface to the other so they are just a regular bearing. My RPM hubs are going to go onto one of the tubs that Stephen is going to send me, the vintage tub I have here is going to be the runner

I also picked up another real cool part which is a pair of Team Atlas blue anodised steering posts, new in packet. The have a wider section part way up the shaft so you don't need the lower spacer from the steering parts, not sure if they should go on the 21st Century Mid or the above mentioned tun that will get the RPM parts.

I appreciate you following up with Stephen, he has mentioned the situation to me in email but the last couple weeks he has not been responding to emails, I suspect they are super busy or maybe he has had to take some time off work

[Welshy40]

Hi James

Checked again with the calipers and my memory was correct the bearings are 4mm width from outside of one surface to the other so they are just a regular bearing. My RPM hubs are going to go onto one of the tubs that Stephen is going to send me, the vintage tub I have here is going to be the runner

I also picked up another real cool part which is a pair of Team Atlas blue anodised steering posts, new in packet. The have a wider section part way up the shaft so you don't need the lower spacer from the steering parts, not sure if they should go on the 21st Century Mid or the above mentioned tun that will get the RPM parts.

I appreciate you following up with Stephen, he has mentioned the situation to me in email but the last couple weeks he has not been responding to emails, I suspect they are super busy or maybe he has had to take some time off work

If you recal you asked me what they were when i posted pics on either my zxs or zxr, but were designed for them both and the pure ten. Diffs were the best things they came up with and never came across a diff as good anywhere else. Bearings what i meant was yes they are the normal size but if they are both flanged what width is the flange as they sell a lot of different width flanged bearings? Is it 1mm, 2 or 3?

[HKS_TRD]

IIRC I had asked you about why you were using the Optima Mid steering posts with the C-clip and not full length lazer ones but may have asked about the Atlas ones too, they are full height

I measured the flange and its 1mm width, if anything a tad under

[Welshy40]

IIRC I had asked you about why you were using the Optima Mid steering posts with the C-clip and not full length lazer ones but may have asked about the Atlas ones too, they are full height

I measured the flange and its 1mm width, if anything a tad under

Cheers. Yes i do prefer those Optima items when using the tub chassis. It most probably was on my ZXS then, and think it was before you bought yours. Still team atlas did think their designs thru and not only look the paet but work really well as well.

[HKS_TRD]

no problem, happy to help. Speaking of ZX-S mine now has blue anodised gearbox posts to match the other parts on it. Still need to install the chassis and steering posts and blue Kyosho nuts throughout. I had a second set of gearbox posts done for my second tub build

[kek23k]

Finally got round to sorting out some UJ's for my ZXR rebuild. I'm currently not working due to a leg injury so I figured it would kill some time. I got the LA232 for the front and LA245 with the 231.02 axles.

Now my question, what hubs should I be running on the rear?

Also, tried emailing Fibrelyte last week to see if they'd got anywhere with my tub but haven't had any response yet :(

[isobarik]

sp-107
sp-107h
sp-107v

la-304

any of those will do

mvh isobarik

[kek23k]

Thanks iso :)

I grabbed the LA304 rear hubs off evilBay and Stephen from Fibrelyte has been in touch to say they might be able to start on the MkII tub for me shortly.

James, did the layshaft for the associated slipper get finished and do you know what associated parts I'd need to use it? I've already got one of the spurs from RW awhile ago.

[Welshy40]

Thanks iso :)

I grabbed the LA304 rear hubs off evilBay and Stephen from Fibrelyte has been in touch to say they might be able to start on the MkII tub for me shortly.

James, did the layshaft for the associated slipper get finished and do you know what associated parts I'd need to use it? I've already got one of the spurs from RW awhile ago.

Yup, pics posted in the alcyon thread. You can use a B4 slipper system or the B4 VTS slipper clutch but recomend the extra torque slipper pads. Id also recomend a rear belt tensioner as well but youll need to cut the rear gearbox to make it work.

[alcyon]

Anyone knows the Lazer's front belt length ? I want to make one to replace my tattered original.

[isobarik]

Anyone knows the Lazer's front belt length ? I want to make one to replace my tattered original.

isnt it like 537mm

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

isnt it like 537mm

mvh isobarik
Thanks iso, can anyone second that ? Once I have this I can assemble my ZX.
I tried assembling my ZX last night , and found that I cannot really lock the one way properly. I have lost that special step washer that is supposed to be next to the one way, but from my memory, that does not do a good job of locking the one way. Any ideas ?
I now have to grind the steering plate, assemble my new C hubs, and my ZX should be ready, minus the shocks.

latest updates
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140826_223454_zpsk9z1ladx.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140826_223454_zpsk9z1ladx.jpg.html)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140826_223447_zpsfbsalrtq.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140826_223447_zpsfbsalrtq.jpg.html)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140826_223436_zpswoeaccan.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140826_223436_zpswoeaccan.jpg.html)

[alcyon]

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140827_211955_zpsbtxhqt6e.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140827_211955_zpsbtxhqt6e.jpg.html)

[Welshy40]

Seen an over priced ZXR on ebay, hundred pounds over priced. Looks above average but dont think it will go unless the cost comes down.

[HKS_TRD]

I saw that one too
One interesting thing, it appears to be a MKI as it has MKI upper deck but the chassis only has six cell slots not 7 like the MKI chassis has, maybe its a MKII chassis with the two extra holes drilled to move the rear bulkhead forward

[Welshy40]

I saw that one too
One interesting thing, it appears to be a MKI as it has MKI upper deck but the chassis only has six cell slots not 7 like the MKI chassis has, maybe its a MKII chassis with the two extra holes drilled to move the rear bulkhead forward

Id say its a mk1 and does have zx wishbones, mk1 slipper weird front pivot block holder but the top deck is a mk1 variant and not a mk2 just like the towers plus the L brace is a zx or mk1.

[kek23k]

I saw that one too
One interesting thing, it appears to be a MKI as it has MKI upper deck but the chassis only has six cell slots not 7 like the MKI chassis has, maybe its a MKII chassis with the two extra holes drilled to move the rear bulkhead forward

Just had a zoom in on one of the pics and it's a carbon fibre chassis so not the original, so I would say it's definitely a MKI ZXR. Definitely overpriced though, gonna be hanging round on evilBay for a while I reckon ;)

[rob m]

yes i noticed the carbon chassis aswell and it will make a shelf queen they state, have you seen the zxrr thats on ebay aswell....£430!:o.

[kek23k]

yes i noticed the carbon chassis aswell and it will make a shelf queen they state, have you seen the zxrr thats on ebay aswell....£430!:o.

Just spotted that one now, how can you turn it down at that price? It's got TWO handheld controllers?! :lol:

[rob m]

does anybody know the difference between the two fibrelyte front hooped shock towers zxsji 05 and kyzx 03 please, as i don't want to order the wrong one.

[kek23k]

I think those are both the same mount, I bet Welshy can confirm which one to get ;)

[rob m]

Just spotted that one now, how can you turn it down at that price? It's got TWO handheld controllers?! :lol: you didn't miss the multiple assorted spares as you were getting excited over the price including the TWO handheld controllers did you

:lol:

[Welshy40]

Well over priced, so seems both wont sell.

[Welshy40]

does anybody know the difference between the two fibrelyte front hooped shock towers zxsji 05 and kyzx 03 please, as i don't want to order the wrong one.

Unsure, id call them and ask which one has the thicker bottom section like the one James Instone runs.

[alcyon]

Welshy40, how is the testing going ?
Also, any idea how to lock the one way. I hate it, I want full time 4WD.

[Welshy40]

Welshy40, how is the testing going ?
Also, any idea how to lock the one way. I hate it, I want full time 4WD.

Havent had a chance. Locking like Octobers the earliest where im doing a days solid practicing with it. Sorry just had issues happening that have disrupred my plans. Build wise in the gearboxes though its perfect (think you realised that when you checked if it fitted). Locking the one way you can threadlock the screw and tighten it up. You may find it better using a lock nut.

[alcyon]

. You may find it better using a lock nut.

That's the thing, even with a lock nut as soon as I hit the brakes it becomes loose again. How do you other guys lock the one way ? I even turned the lock nut so that the rubber side is closer, still no luck.

[isobarik]

Welshy40, how is the testing going ?
Also, any idea how to lock the one way. I hate it, I want full time 4WD.

Put on à washer then à locknut thighten it down and let us know how it went

Mvh isobark

[alcyon]

Put on à washer then à locknut thighten it down and let us know how it went

Mvh isobark
There is already a washer and a locknut. And it still loosens. Even BITD it was the same. I always drive with the one way free. But now I want to full time 4WD with brushless.

[alcyon]

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140905_230548_zpsnketfnsj.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140905_230548_zpsnketfnsj.jpg.html)

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20140905_230541_zpst3nmabcn.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20140905_230541_zpst3nmabcn.jpg.html)

latest update. Replica of my friends 1990 zx. Well just the body and wing.

[Welshy40]

How much movement is there on the layshaft? May be better if theres none as the current manual layout does have slo. Maybe some wafer thin washers on the layshaft that sit between the bearing a chunk on the layshadt may resolve it

[rob m]

Unsure, id call them and ask which one has the thicker bottom section like the one James Instone runs.
i rang fibre-lyte and spoke to stephen and he was unsure aswell, this is what i got instead of the hoop design

[Welshy40]

Rob, Apologies had two weeks of hell with things but the towers pictured on their website so why did they send that? Still it looks nice never the less. Do you want me to call on monday and find out whats going on,

[rob m]

Rob, Apologies had two weeks of hell with things but the towers pictured on their website so why did they send that? Still it looks nice never the less. Do you want me to call on monday and find out whats going on, hi james, its ok i worded my post wrong, what i meant is i had this tower made instead of the hoop design tower, the one i got is the one i wanted

[HKS_TRD]

Are Fibrelyte starting to get on top of things again? I have started building the gearbox for the tub I ordered

[HKS_TRD]

Alcyon where did you get those gold kingpins on your Lazer?

[rob m]

Are Fibrelyte starting to get on top of things again? I have started building the gearbox for the tub I ordered

i had no issues, i ordered the shock tower on a tuesday and they arrived in the post thursday .

[alcyon]

Alcyon where did you get those gold kingpins on your Lazer?

They came with a used optima mid. I think its made by cross or gpm.

[Welshy40]

hi james, its ok i worded my post wrong, what i meant is i had this tower made instead of the hoop design tower, the one i got is the one i wanted

Ok great, also good design but as per my tests on similar designs i would go one mm thicker if using a fast motor.

[Welshy40]

There is already a washer and a locknut. And it still loosens. Even BITD it was the same. I always drive with the one way free. But now I want to full time 4WD with brushless.

Thinking outside the box is whats needed. If you have a thrust or bearing between the two pulleys may be the reason. If you have thrust id opt for the solid bushing and lock tighting the nyloc nut on tight back to front or if you can find a wasp solid layshaft get that.

[kek23k]

Are Fibrelyte starting to get on top of things again? I have started building the gearbox for the tub I ordered

I'm still waiting to hear back from Stephen about the tub I ordered too, last time I heard from him was about 2 weeks ago. I don't want to hassle them cos I know they were short-staffed but how long does it take to reply to an email :(

[Welshy40]

I'm still waiting to hear back from Stephen about the tub I ordered too, last time I heard from him was about 2 weeks ago. I don't want to hassle them cos I know they were short-staffed but how long does it take to reply to an email :(

Stephen said he has answered all emails in his inbox so is possible he didnt receive it. Could yoy email it again plus let me know so I can let him know. Cheers.

[Welshy40]

Are Fibrelyte starting to get on top of things again? I have started building the gearbox for the tub I ordered

Wouldnt be my one?

[HKS_TRD]

Wouldnt be my one?

Indeed it is just need to build the diffs and it can go together permanently, this will have the blue belts as it will be a shelfer. I am putting a NIP LAW-12 in it. The tensioner I got from you is going on my second used vintage twill weave tub, part of my order with Stephen is some twill weave parts for that project

I have sent Stephen a few emails so I don't want to send any more I am sure he will answer when he gets a chance though I need some of the parts soon as I am building a modified ZX-R for a friend as a Christmas Gift all the parts for that and three other projects are being anodised at the moment

I really need to get onto my Ultima project ....

[kek23k]

Stephen said he has answered all emails in his inbox so is possible he didnt receive it. Could yoy email it again plus let me know so I can let him know. Cheers.


Sure thing, I'll email him now cheers James :)

Ok just sent over another email and my previous email was on the 21st of August. The last email I have from Stephen was on the 12th of August.

Rich

[HKS_TRD]

I decided to send another email too ...

[Welshy40]

You know they always do the work and product is top end of the market so is just a waiting game. Your collection is getting much bigger now and cant wait to see my replica finished.

[HKS_TRD]

You know they always do the work and product is top end of the market so is just a waiting game. Your collection is getting much bigger now and cant wait to see my replica finished.

That is true, at the moment its not holding me up as parts are still being anodised so I am just dummying things up, I spent a long time cutting the rear shock tower mount so its a nice fit between the side plates.

I will be chipping away at four projects simultaneously, the plan is to get all my projects built as much as possible so I can sell off all the extra parts, though I am considering building more buggies from the extra parts and selling whole as it will be less of a chore

I'm really keen to see how the replica turns out too as I haven't 100% decided which parts will go on it yet

[Welshy40]

Mate, i cant wait to see i as well. Only problem you will have is keeping up with my upgrades, however the cf gearbox sides wont change anymore so your safe there. Also latest prototype layshaft also looks like it wont change as i didnt need washers to space it out so fits perfectly with vts slipper in a normal gear cover. Testing in October :woot:

[HKS_TRD]

Mate, i cant wait to see i as well. Only problem you will have is keeping up with my upgrades, however the cf gearbox sides wont change anymore so your safe there. Also latest prototype layshaft also looks like it wont change as i didnt need washers to space it out so fits perfectly with vts slipper in a normal gear cover. Testing in October :woot:

I'm putting the LAW-12 on the CF gearbox as thats going to be a shelfer with the blue belts. I am considering using the new genuine ZX-R body and decals I have on it done in box art, to kind of make it a sleeper. I might not use the CF motor plate and go with a finned alloy one I have here but still not decided

The custom layshaft will be going on my second tub chassis which will have a regular gearbox with your tensioner for the rear belt and the same front belt tensioner setup as the CF gearbox

The ZX-S now has anodised gearbox poles just waiting on a couple other bits to get done as well to finish it off and I have the sway bar for it now

[Welshy40]

I'm putting the LAW-12 on the CF gearbox as thats going to be a shelfer with the blue belts. I am considering using the new genuine ZX-R body and decals I have on it done in box art, to kind of make it a sleeper. I might not use the CF motor plate and go with a finned alloy one I have here but still not decided

The custom layshaft will be going on my second tub chassis which will have a regular gearbox with your tensioner for the rear belt and the same front belt tensioner setup as the CF gearbox

The ZX-S now has anodised gearbox poles just waiting on a couple other bits to get done as well to finish it off and I have the sway bar for it now

Ok cool, you do realise the metal motor plate may be a problem fitting as its not countersunk as my cf gearbox is designed so you have to screw to motor plate to it and isnt done from the other side, unless that is you have another idea of resolving the issue with the metal poles.

[HKS_TRD]

Ok cool, you do realise the metal motor plate may be a problem fitting as its not countersunk as my cf gearbox is designed so you have to screw to motor plate to it and isnt done from the other side, unless that is you have another idea of resolving the issue with the metal poles.

I could drill the threads and countersink the holes though would a button head screw clear the spur gear? I suspect they would with the LAW-12, will have to look into it when I get back home (out of town at the moment) as it can be dummied up before drilling the threads and the fins are on the motor side not the spur side so a button head screw can seat flat on it

The CF motor plate is very thin, was that for clearance or some other reason?

I have a nylon front gearbox half for this project which has been dyed blue and will be using all titanium screws. Life can get tough on the shelf!

[kek23k]

Just wanted to say thanks to James for chasing Stephen up, he's been back in touch this week. No eta on the tub but I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Does anyone who still checks in have the front Teamline shock mount?

I checked with Fibrelyte and they dont have a template for it but they will do a copy of one so I'm looking for a kind soul that wouldn't mind helping me out :D

[Welshy40]

I could drill the threads and countersink the holes though would a button head screw clear the spur gear? I suspect they would with the LAW-12, will have to look into it when I get back home (out of town at the moment) as it can be dummied up before drilling the threads and the fins are on the motor side not the spur side so a button head screw can seat flat on it

The CF motor plate is very thin, was that for clearance or some other reason?

I have a nylon front gearbox half for this project which has been dyed blue and will be using all titanium screws. Life can get tough on the shelf!

If you can drill it and fit a button then hope it all works out.

The cf motor plate was i thought standard thickness, but did base my design on using one of those motor plates in front of the motor (gold like the one you had with your zxs) but tbh it fitted fine for me without it but if you want it thicker you can ask Stephen to do another.

Titanium screws snap easily so if just a shelf then go for it, if a runner stay clear as it will cause you no end of problems.

[Mattias]

I just got my Lazer completely done. Here it is, ready to wreck:
http://forumbilder.se/DE2DD/20140927-125755.jpg

[HKS_TRD]

If you can drill it and fit a button then hope it all works out.

The cf motor plate was i thought standard thickness, but did base my design on using one of those motor plates in front of the motor (gold like the one you had with your zxs) but tbh it fitted fine for me without it but if you want it thicker you can ask Stephen to do another.

Titanium screws snap easily so if just a shelf then go for it, if a runner stay clear as it will cause you no end of problems.

I'm back home but haven't had a chance to look into it just yet, I need to sort out what else I need to get anodised first.
I just realised that Christmas is not all that far away so I really need Stephen to get onto my order or atleast the half of it I need to complete the Lazer I am building as a Christmas gift for somoene

Thanks for the tip on the titanium screws, I won't use them on any of my runners or if I do use any not in high stress areas

[HKS_TRD]

I just got my Lazer completely done. Here it is, ready to wreck:
http://forumbilder.se/DE2DD/20140927-125755.jpg

Wow that looks great, what shell is that? Any more details on it, that front pivot block looks interesting

[Mattias]

Wow that looks great, what shell is that? Any more details on it, that front pivot block looks interesting

The shell is a Jconcepts Punisher for B4.1 +8 mm. It fits pretty well over the chassis. The Punisher for the regular wheelbase B4.1 doesn't work at all.
I slaughtered an undertray for a B44, bent the bits of lexan as needed and fitted it to the top if the chassis plate. More pics in this thread (in swedish, sorry. The pics speak all languages though): http://rsb.se/arena/showthread.php?91499-Lazer-ZX-R-n%E5nting-runner-to-be

I made the front pivot block from a piece of aluminium and a bit of carbon fibre to stop the hinge pins from sliding out.

[DanB4]

I'll post some pics of my ZX-R which has been looking very sorry for itself in my project queue for over a year, it has:

Full carbon fibre.
4 blue alloy pivot blocks all round.
Teamline blue front hub carriers.
Blue finned motor heatsink/mount.
Parma Tomcat body.
Kyosho blue heavy duty bellcranks.

What's the latest with the layshaft to accept modern slippers?

Thanks,

Dan

[Mattias]

I use Associated spur gears with Associated slipper pads. "All" I had to do was to grind the flat bits of the shaft a bit (2-3 mm) longer, and use the inner ring from a ball bearing pressed into the spur gear to convert from 4,8 to 4 mm inner diameter. Works a charm, even if the actual slipper area is a tad small. I run a 13.5 motor, so I don't think it will stress the slipper too badly.

[Welshy40]

I'll post some pics of my ZX-R which has been looking very sorry for itself in my project queue for over a year, it has:

Full carbon fibre.
4 blue alloy pivot blocks all round.
Teamline blue front hub carriers.
Blue finned motor heatsink/mount.
Parma Tomcat body.
Kyosho blue heavy duty bellcranks.

What's the latest with the layshaft to accept modern slippers?

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

Got the latest and believe last prototype shaft. Fits in perfectly with zero spacers and B4 slipper and what ive fitted VTS slipper goes in with no issues with the gear cover. But you need to buy the B4 100t spur gear from RW Racing but make sure you mention the ones James Instone was supplied.

Testing is happeng on the 11th October for a day so will update then. Im doing the Maritime event.

[alcyon]

looks like my lazer may be up and running before the 11th. I may be doing some testing too.

[DanB4]

On another note I thought James and all may like to see my new built ZX-S :)

Body off pics soon.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20140927_201552_zpsrbcf8jjs.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20140927_202221_zps1sjekmml.jpg

[Welshy40]

Looks great. Now you can see where my ideas came from in my ZXR.

[DanB4]

Lads, what are my CVD options for my ZXR racer (below).....I've seen some newer ZX5/ZX6 shafts used - do the teamline hubs require different lengths? I would like to have modern CVD's all round.

Soon to have electrics fitted.

Cheers

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_221419_zpskc3343gm.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_221412_zpsgvup1yms.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_221426_zpsfcgnkter.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_221432_zpswxypfbft.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_221445_zpsb33cnb9u.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/SDRCC/20141003_222104_zpstw2y3dus.jpg

[kek23k]

I've got the following part numbers from deep within this thread:

Front: LA-232
Rear: LA-245 with LA-231-02 shaft/axle

The front ones listed above are for using the Teamline hubs with the wider track setting.

[Mattias]

I use Tamiya TRF shafts and axles. 70 mm in the front and 64 mm rear. The wheel axles are a bit short, but serrated nuts make it happen.

The reason for using "the other brand" parts is that they were VERY cheap.

I had to put a limiter on the outside of the front shocks to stop the shaft from hitting the outdrive. It was either that or dremeling the outdrives.

[Welshy40]

I use Tamiya TRF shafts and axles. 70 mm in the front and 64 mm rear. The wheel axles are a bit short, but serrated nuts make it happen.

The reason for using "the other brand" parts is that they were VERY cheap.

I had to put a limiter on the outside of the front shocks to stop the shaft from hitting the outdrive. It was either that or dremeling the outdrives.

Kyosho are expensive for ujs but they are a perfect fit and also designed for these size outdrives so if racing I would advise changing what you use. by the way im using the same shell which is available through Kamtec in my links below and your car looks superb.

[DanB4]

Thanks guys. James - I assume that was directed at me? :)

Best source for the shafts and I guess I'll need to use clamped hexes - boo my yok adaptors will be redundant.

[hloland]

I use Tamiya TRF shafts and axles. 70 mm in the front and 64 mm rear. The wheel axles are a bit short, but serrated nuts make it happen.

The reason for using "the other brand" parts is that they were VERY cheap.

I had to put a limiter on the outside of the front shocks to stop the shaft from hitting the outdrive. It was either that or dremeling the outdrives.

These axels are a direct fit on a Lazer ZXR: (front is to long for the orginal ZX).
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2628
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2629

[kek23k]

I got mine, using the part numbers I posted, from www.hobbycart.com. Cheapest place I could find but shipping took a couple of weeks.

[Welshy40]

Dan,

Yup, that write up stood out so apologies. Also spur gear using the new design layshaft id prefer the RW 100 tooth 48dp b4 spur gear was used as its basically what the shafts been designed around.

[DanB4]

I emailed Neil at RW to get a few of the spurs but no reply yet

[alcyon]

Anyone knows the length of zx rear inner hingepins?
Is there any modern car pins i can use as replacement ?

[Mattias]

If it's the same as the front hinge pin they are 53-54 mm.

[alcyon]

Also i need rear belt type is it s3m or m3. Its because i used tamiya s3m touring car belt and the belt tooth worn off...and i was just testing the car. It was like the belt couldnt grip the pulley.

[alcyon]

If it's the same as the front hinge pin they are 53-54 mm.

I measured my fronts at 50 and rear 54. Funny thing is i found a pin my box with 55mm.

[Ema]

Just wanted to say thanks to James for chasing Stephen up, he's been back in touch this week. No eta on the tub but I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Does anyone who still checks in have the front Teamline shock mount?

I checked with Fibrelyte and they dont have a template for it but they will do a copy of one so I'm looking for a kind soul that wouldn't mind helping me out :D

Not 100% sure, but maybe a PDF scan helps :
http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=00203157021482245429

In order to get the actual size check that the page scaling is set to none when you print the file (100% size).

Bye
Ema

[Ema]

Also i need rear belt type is it s3m or m3. Its because i used tamiya s3m touring car belt and the belt tooth worn off...and i was just testing the car. It was like the belt couldnt grip the pulley.

The Lazer belts are S3M, also the RPP3 fits fine.

Bye
Ema

[kek23k]

Brilliant, thanks Ema :D :D

Not 100% sure, but maybe a PDF scan helps :
http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=00203157021482245429

In order to get the actual size check that the page scaling is set to none when you print the file (100% size).

Bye
Ema

[HKS_TRD]

What are the part numbers for the ultimate shocks for a ZX-RR?

[Welshy40]

Layshaft worked well this weekend. No faults to report

[Welshy40]

Ok, well someone mentioned the other day to get some pictures of Ellis Stafford's Euro winning Lazer and so I emailed him and he brought it along to the Maritime Raceway Winter series first event this weekend.

Ok needed a good clean and a fix and as luck would have it and Ellis already knows I have spares as I still race my ZXR so took some pictures for everyone to at least reminisce on such a unique car. Also was a good idea to put my race car alongside so you can see the changes that I have done since his car was used.

See if you can notice what's unusual about his car, also fyi the diffs are waaaay smoother than a gear diff, it was incredible how good they felt considering its been sitting in an open space since he won the title. Oil was also still in those shocks as well but some had leaked over time. Also those tyres were as it came off the track when he won the title so only change being is he removed all the electrical gear to fit into his next car but left the Parma motor in and is still meshed perfectly to the spur.

Anyway thanks Ellis for doing this.

Hope you enjoy these.

[HKS_TRD]

MKII chassis but MKI upper deck?

[alcyon]

So... I go ahead and make 10 ZX B4 layshafts ?

[Welshy40]

MKII chassis but MKI upper deck?

Nope mk2. Shocks, L brace and rear hubs stood out but also the battery holders and am not so sure original chassis came with angled battery bar placement, but could be wrong.

[Welshy40]

So... I go ahead and make 10 ZX B4 layshafts ?

I thinks its good at the moment but would let all who buy know how to make the one way into a permanent locked 4wd system as im still unsure on the one way not causing problems

[Ema]

The paintjob of the Ellis car sounds familiar .... :woot:

Bye
Ema

http://i61.tinypic.com/2z9adfs.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2wgrxbr.jpg

[Welshy40]

Not bad :thumbsup:

[DanB4]

1 for me Rama please. Now have the rw spur and ae slipper.

[Welshy40]

Heres somne pictures that may make you drool just a little bit. Hope you like :p

[isobarik]

The paintjob of the Ellis car sounds familiar .... :woot:

Bye
Ema

http://i61.tinypic.com/2z9adfs.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2wgrxbr.jpg

Seams like Ellis has some taste for a special italian dude....

:)

Mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

So... I go ahead and make 10 ZX B4 layshafts ?

Count me in on 1

[alcyon]

mecydA5sKEU

[Welshy40]

Nice, bit slow but very nice, geared perfectly so it whispers. If i had the money i would have a set of those wishbones as it does look stunning

[OptimaFan]

Slow? I think it will easily do 50 km/h or more on a flat surface. Does it run brushed or brushless?

[isobarik]

Alcyon usually drives brushless

Mvh isobarik

[HKS_TRD]

I thinks its good at the moment but would let all who buy know how to make the one way into a permanent locked 4wd system as im still unsure on the one way not causing problems

I was planning on keeping the one-way unlocked so it only brakes on the rear wheels, or does this affect the handling under power as well?

[alcyon]

Hi guys that lazer is fitted with team powers 10 5t motor with orca vx esc that is boosted to 15degrees . The speed is more than enough for where i am running.
i urge you guys to lock the one was because I am worried the loose one way may brinnel or wear out the shaft at that area.

[Welshy40]

Locking the one way is the way to go and actually doesnt really change much so worth doing. Braking with a permanent 4wd shouldnt affect the handling if set up well.

Ok speed was good for that motor but can handle a lot more. What pinion did you use?

Rama also what issue did you have with the layshaft?

[Welshy40]

Dan, do you race against Jody Denner?

[alcyon]

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20141018_112602_zpsk9kzbqxh.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20141018_112602_zpsk9kzbqxh.jpg.html)
I am not really facing issues with the layshaft..but with the rw spurs. I am using the smaller section pads and one of my spurs melted.
the other one wobbles. So i wonder if rw has tolerance issues because one spur fit perfectly while the other had a noticable gap. And yes i installed the correct type for the b4 and not the old type. My pinion is 24 tooth so final ratio is 9.2

[Welshy40]

Think slipper was a bit loose as i had the same issue. Plus found the high torque slipper pad far superior as its a bigger pad.

[HKS_TRD]

Dan, do you race against Jody Denner?

Hi James not sure which Dan you meant but if you meant me, I am yet to race, haven't actually built something that runs yet, but I am getting clsoer! Fibrelyte will be taking care of my order next week and my anodising is well under way

BTW I was meaning to ask, if you use a standard layshaft which layshaft does the RW spur work with, the ZX or the ZX-R layshaft?

[alcyon]

I beleive i found the problem of the wobbling spur. Welshy have a look at your slipper. Remove the spring. Look at the outer plate. It seems the flat part of the shaft isnt long enough to support the outer plate to keep it straight. I compared against my optima mid shaft and the flat part is only about 0.5mm inside the plate. Whereas the zx one is about 1.5mm inside. Solution is to lengthen the flat part by 1mm. See if i am right.

[alcyon]

I will get a new prototype made up very quickly. I tested my ZX at a new track and found one annoying problem besides the wobbly spur causing some noise.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20141019_213853_zpshtesvopx.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20141019_213853_zpshtesvopx.jpg.html)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/20141019_213919_zpswzltngzq.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20141019_213919_zpswzltngzq.jpg.html)
The front inner block keeps coming off after a hard knock on the arms. So I bought some longer screws today and hopefully this will solve the problem. Will re test my lazer on Wednesday and hope I can finish a pack without any more issues.

[Dudders]

Erm, should I be using slipper pads with the RW spur?

[Welshy40]

With my B4 100t spur i recomend using an SC10 or B4 high torque slipper pads. Dont overly slip on your settings.

[alcyon]

I sent my first and third prototypes to the machinist to fix the bugs I found. He said he can return them to me on Monday. I will do another retest when I get it and let you all know. This time I am going turbo on this one.

[pUs]

Ok, well someone mentioned the other day to get some pictures of Ellis Stafford's Euro winning Lazer and so I emailed him and he brought it along to the Maritime Raceway Winter series first event this weekend.

Ok needed a good clean and a fix and as luck would have it and Ellis already knows I have spares as I still race my ZXR so took some pictures for everyone to at least reminisce on such a unique car. Also was a good idea to put my race car alongside so you can see the changes that I have done since his car was used.

See if you can notice what's unusual about his car, also fyi the diffs are waaaay smoother than a gear diff, it was incredible how good they felt considering its been sitting in an open space since he won the title. Oil was also still in those shocks as well but some had leaked over time. Also those tyres were as it came off the track when he won the title so only change being is he removed all the electrical gear to fit into his next car but left the Parma motor in and is still meshed perfectly to the spur.

Anyway thanks Ellis for doing this.

Hope you enjoy these.

Sure did, absolutely awesome :)

If you ever get the chance, pleeease ask him if he still has any remains of his 1993 4WD tamiyas. Detailed pics of that one would make me drool... :p

[Welshy40]

Sure did, absolutely awesome :)

If you ever get the chance, pleeease ask him if he still has any remains of his 1993 4WD tamiyas. Detailed pics of that one would make me drool... :p

Wish i took pics of that when i had a good look at it in Ellis pit tent at the nationals when he was racing it. Still ive pics somewhere of one that tamiya exhibited recently. I know all including Ellis were shipped back to Japan. PM me your email address and when ive five minutes over the weekend will find and attach for you.

Cheers

James

[szymanski2oo1]

hi all.... not sure if ive missed this in a previous thread, but im after the bearings for the blue front hub carriers. i have a lazer zxr i raced in the 90's and at some point i removed the hub carriers and fitted standard ones, but i want to restore it and put the blue ones back on but have lost the bearings that came with them... can anyone post a link to where to buy them from? i have no idea what size they are!
also does anyone know what size are the balls in the ball diffs? could do with buying some new ones!

any help appreciated!

[alcyon]

Lazer balls are 3mm.

[szymanski2oo1]

thanks alcon thats great , anyone else have an idea on the bearings size for the front blue nylon hubs?

[Welshy40]

Cant remember, but will measure my spares. Also believe we discussed the same thing on this thread a few years ago so do a search on castor blocks or teamline

[szymanski2oo1]

Ah thanks ... Team line made them .. Will do a bit of searching for them
thank you

[kenios]

Hello,

i have recently bought teamline blue front hubs 7,5° w/BB for the kyosho lazer ZX-R ; reference number on package: Z-TLN076 (closed package..)

measurements of the ball bearings in the package: outside diam. = 8mm x 4mm= inside diam. x 3mm= thinkness

4 normal bearings, not flanged

i don't know if flanged bearings are possible, could work maybee.

hope this helps !

ken (kenios)

[szymanski2oo1]

Cheers dude that's really helpful will start googleing!

[HKS_TRD]

Well my Fibrelyte order has turned up, so when I get some time I can start on some of my planned projects :-)

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/HKS_TRD/RC%20Cars/WP_20141128_003_zps2d589ff5.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/HKS_TRD/media/RC%20Cars/WP_20141128_003_zps2d589ff5.jpg.html)

[alcyon]

Well my Fibrelyte order has turned up, so when I get some time I can start on some of my planned projects :-)

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/HKS_TRD/RC%20Cars/WP_20141128_003_zps2d589ff5.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/HKS_TRD/media/RC%20Cars/WP_20141128_003_zps2d589ff5.jpg.html)
That's a lot of money there, all graphite or some CSC? I find that CSC is good enough for shock towers and half the price.

[HKS_TRD]

Its all Carbon Fibre but its not all mine, the second tub is a friends along with some of the other pieces

The upper deck is a copy of a vintage (Wasp I believe) upper deck

I do have another tub which is a vintage twill weave tub, that will be my runner and some of the bits in that pic are for the old tub, I had Fibrelyte do them in twill weave

My friends tub ZX-R is my first priority build then on to all my projects which are piling up!

[Welshy40]

Twill weave was what I chose and glad it worked so well

[HKS_TRD]

Twill weave was what I chose and glad it worked so well

Do you mean the tub you had made or some of your other parts, those tubs in the pic are regular weave with the criss-cross pattern the vintage tub (not in pics) has only the lines in one direction if that makes sense.

James you will notice that the tub on the right has the gearbox mounting holes missing and I have dummied up your gearbox design which you can see in the pic.

I'm still waiting for some stuff to come back from being anodised and then I can get into it.

The build for my friend will be the first one I put together, I'll put a thread up when I get into it

[Welshy40]

Do you mean the tub you had made or some of your other parts, those tubs in the pic are regular weave with the criss-cross pattern the vintage tub (not in pics) has only the lines in one direction if that makes sense.

James you will notice that the tub on the right has the gearbox mounting holes missing and I have dummied up your gearbox design which you can see in the pic.

I'm still waiting for some stuff to come back from being anodised and then I can get into it.

The build for my friend will be the first one I put together, I'll put a thread up when I get into it

Looks great, the only other one in the world. Yup talking about the very first one, the one no one ever had a copy of as that was my request. Wasp, CNC and others who sold the chassis all bought from fibrelyte. Glad i did that as you wont believe how good my designed chassis is on a high grip track.

Race event ive just done was a pain as plan was to use the sworkz car but once i got it smokin and dialed i snapped the uj on the front and ended me using. Then after four solid twelve minute runs sorting out my zxr the motor overheated and blew my esc and motor so had to remove esc from my sworkz and fit, problem was wires were too short but managed to get a fit, added 25g weight to battery cf top plate on both sides and more aimed towards rear of car, then geared down a pinion for first run and car was awful, couldnt control it and broke the knuckle arm so no qualifier for round one. Round two geared up but car was hard to drive so not a good run as i stopped when everyone else did not realising i had another lap, DOH!!! then craps third round so decided to turn batt holders around for last run and OMG!!! It was almost there, put in a blinder and ended up 25 overal so a bit gutted i missed that lap in round two as i would have been a lot higher up. Electrics are now my problem.

[Peakey]

I've just acquired this so is it worth the effort or not
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/AB7841F7-3B4C-4586-9F20-1A195481909D_zpscuafxgh2.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/AB7841F7-3B4C-4586-9F20-1A195481909D_zpscuafxgh2.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/C1B77FE3-77CA-48AA-80EE-22BAB3F227B2_zps0trhmny2.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/C1B77FE3-77CA-48AA-80EE-22BAB3F227B2_zps0trhmny2.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/FFF061AA-3D5B-422B-A1CB-AA153DD9AE2F_zpsvog9ddlw.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/FFF061AA-3D5B-422B-A1CB-AA153DD9AE2F_zpsvog9ddlw.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/F52522CC-6466-434C-A0A0-8E0AD19E4374_zpsxcs1hwxp.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/F52522CC-6466-434C-A0A0-8E0AD19E4374_zpsxcs1hwxp.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/412BAAB4-1365-43E8-8662-199BB737A024_zpsq8y9mek1.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/412BAAB4-1365-43E8-8662-199BB737A024_zpsq8y9mek1.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/F898EE13-41E8-4C5F-8D19-9B846589BFCE_zpshumjkaos.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/F898EE13-41E8-4C5F-8D19-9B846589BFCE_zpshumjkaos.jpg.html)
It's a bit scratched up and needs a good clean but it's 90% there it's got carbon front and rear towers and I've got the rear arms too. I'm a bit gutted I got rid of all the alloy bits I had. Do what do people think

[alcyon]

I've just acquired this so is it worth the effort or not
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/AB7841F7-3B4C-4586-9F20-1A195481909D_zpscuafxgh2.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/AB7841F7-3B4C-4586-9F20-1A195481909D_zpscuafxgh2.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/C1B77FE3-77CA-48AA-80EE-22BAB3F227B2_zps0trhmny2.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/C1B77FE3-77CA-48AA-80EE-22BAB3F227B2_zps0trhmny2.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/FFF061AA-3D5B-422B-A1CB-AA153DD9AE2F_zpsvog9ddlw.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/FFF061AA-3D5B-422B-A1CB-AA153DD9AE2F_zpsvog9ddlw.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/F52522CC-6466-434C-A0A0-8E0AD19E4374_zpsxcs1hwxp.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/F52522CC-6466-434C-A0A0-8E0AD19E4374_zpsxcs1hwxp.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/412BAAB4-1365-43E8-8662-199BB737A024_zpsq8y9mek1.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/412BAAB4-1365-43E8-8662-199BB737A024_zpsq8y9mek1.jpg.html)
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p662/peakey29/2014-06/F898EE13-41E8-4C5F-8D19-9B846589BFCE_zpshumjkaos.jpg (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/peakey29/media/2014-06/F898EE13-41E8-4C5F-8D19-9B846589BFCE_zpshumjkaos.jpg.html)
It's a bit scratched up and needs a good clean but it's 90% there it's got carbon front and rear towers and I've got the rear arms too. I'm a bit gutted I got rid of all the alloy bits I had. Do what do people think

Give it to me, I can get it sorted ! :woot:

[Welshy40]

Guys buy the Radio Control Car Racer January edition as ive been give the star letter and youll never guess what pictures it shows:woot:

[Welshy40]

Is anyone good at 3D drawings as ive got an idea on how to resolve the knuckle arms as ive had enough of losing king pins, costing me making the A finals. If yes can you do a drawing of the knuckle arms?

[rob m]

why don't you try adding a small amount of plumbers ptfe tape around the thread, it may help to stop the king pin coming loose.....or a small srew like associated use to stop the hinge pins falling out of the w/bones, you won't be able to tighten the screw but it will stop the king pin from falling out at least.

im using teamline hubs with the 3racing zx5 knuckles, when i cut the kingpin peg/boss down for it to fit into the 'c' hub i made sure it was a snug fit ( think it was .8mm i machined off ) so the shoulder of the king pin can lock up against the knuckle tight, as the shoulder of the kingpin is longer then the width of the bearing it will still turn free as it should. Never had a problem with this always tight when i check.

[Welshy40]

why don't you try adding a small amount of plumbers ptfe tape around the thread, it may help to stop the king pin coming loose.....or a small srew like associated use to stop the hinge pins falling out of the w/bones, you won't be able to tighten the screw but it will stop the king pin from falling out at least.

im using teamline hubs with the 3racing zx5 knuckles, when i cut the kingpin peg/boss down for it to fit into the 'c' hub i made sure it was a snug fit ( think it was .8mm i machined off ) so the shoulder of the king pin can lock up against the knuckle tight, as the shoulder of the kingpin is longer then the width of the bearing it will still turn free as it should. Never had a problem with this always tight when i check.

Problem I have is i dont have a machinist close by and do use a teamline hub so would use those knuckles if I could machine down. Issue is my cars stupidly fast so if it starts coming lose its gone, vibration comes into effect as soon as it comes loose.

Ive got an idea on doing a 3d print but with a thread lock nut size hole within the knuckle to fit a thin threadlocked nut in to guarantee it staying in. This is causing me major problems at the moment and need a resolve quickly.

[alcyon]

Problem I have is i dont have a machinist close by and do use a teamline hub so would use those knuckles if I could machine down. Issue is my cars stupidly fast so if it starts coming lose its gone, vibration comes into effect as soon as it comes loose.

Ive got an idea on doing a 3d print but with a thread lock nut size hole within the knuckle to fit a thin threadlocked nut in to guarantee it staying in. This is causing me major problems at the moment and need a resolve quickly.

I have designed a arm set that is direct fit on ZX-5 C hubs and knuckles. The C hubs are pretty tough if you keep both screws of the knuckles in. Good thing about the ZX-5 knuckles compared to OT-16 is it is 22mm high opposed to 19mm, which means more area to grab, and it uses M3 screw with a bushing at the bottom, which wont come loose and is smooth.
You also have an option to use 3racing alloy knuckles.

[Welshy40]

Ive already tested this design and used the zxs proto castor blocks (the exact same as the zx5) and ot16 with washers underneath and above and found the hub wasnt in the right position for my style of driving but did suit others, i found it felt a bit off plus if the knuckle was too high / low it also caused me steering issues on high grip surfaces. I like more steering than most and to some is twitch city, I like the back end loose (with grip) and almost all the grip on the front end so due to this need zero bump steer (this makes the car more neutral on high speed cornering) and a 7.5 degree hub which only teamline made. The bearings also made a big difference with the steering.

I'd like to cut away the inerds top and bottom of the threaded sections on the knuckle and do a hex section instead of a circular design and hope a hex nut (a slim one with threadlock) will fit in without the uj joint hitting it. Ive seen this idea used somewhere before but cant quite work out where, maybe tamiya. How slim can i make the plastic before it cant hold the stress?

Of course if it can be done via 3d printing then great and thats another item that will resolve the king pins coming out permanently. One day i will get around to building that diff.

[rob m]

ive tried this idea myself last year when i was having the same problem. The broblem i had with this idea was getting in the knuckle to open the hole up to fit a lock nut, then as you said james finding a lock nut to fit and not hit the uj. also didn't like how much material was left for the lock nut to tighten against, to thin in my opinion. i tried this with plastic knuckkes.

If you want, send some 3racing zx5 knuckles up to me in the new year and i can machine then for you the same as mine. ive had no problems and am running a 6.5t brushless system so up to date on speed.

[HKS_TRD]

Maybe its obvious and not the answer but what sort of threadlock are you using, the solution may be as simple as to use something more robust

[Welshy40]

ive tried this idea myself last year when i was having the same problem. The broblem i had with this idea was getting in the knuckle to open the hole up to fit a lock nut, then as you said james finding a lock nut to fit and not hit the uj. also didn't like how much material was left for the lock nut to tighten against, to thin in my opinion. i tried this with plastic knuckkes.

If you want, send some 3racing zx5 knuckles up to me in the new year and i can machine then for you the same as mine. ive had no problems and am running a 6.5t brushless system so up to date on speed.

Will do, thanks.

[Welshy40]

Maybe its obvious and not the answer but what sort of threadlock are you using, the solution may be as simple as to use something more robust

I use Associated as its the best ive used to date. Problem is as someone said the other day that its a ballistic missle with a 4.5 in which is where I need to be and should be making the A but this is causing me a big headache, and my issue happens with a slight loosening it vibrates loose quickly. Ive tried all threadlock and glues, plus used screws, spacers instead of king pins but to no avail. Ive now got down to two issues left to resolve and this being my most problematic issue and is driving me crazy.

[HKS_TRD]

One other option is a 3mm Stud, sleeve, and a nyloc nut on top of that, studs will always hold more tension than bolts or nuts

Are you having more issues with the plastic knuckle arms than the alloy ones?

You may find the 3Racing knuckles better than the Kyosho because they are machined rather than cast from what I can see

[Welshy40]

One other option is a 3mm Stud, sleeve, and a nyloc nut on top of that, studs will always hold more tension than bolts or nuts

Are you having more issues with the plastic knuckle arms than the alloy ones?

You may find the 3Racing knuckles better than the Kyosho because they are machined rather than cast from what I can see

Im finding cast ones seem to last longer than the plastic but agree as they are cast the thread doesnt last for long. The plastic seems to flex so the king pin vibrates out, so much trial and error and still no solution.

Im looking at the rpm knuckles and if we could use the same principle but with the inner knuckle section being a washer sunk sized area then it could be dropped in but question is can it be deeper to accomodate a flat head or countersunk screw so a lock nut can be used ontop or underneath the hubs?

Mmm im now contimplating seeing if i can countersink the inner section somehow and just put a countersunk screw through. That way it will miss the uj and with the correct length screw would mean once the nyloc nuts fitted it wont come off.

Maybe a 3d version and that may actaully do it. Still prefer alloy and will test the 3racing ones.

[alcyon]

as far as I know, 3D prints are still not as strong because of the material. PLA is too soft and ABS can still strip.

[rob m]

if the 3racing hubs didn't work another idea was drilling and tapping/threading the king pin holes M4, this would recycle all my stripped knuckles and with using a 4mm bolt it would fit in the bearing in the c hubs without a collr and a lot more area for a stronger load on the thread.

[Welshy40]

if the 3racing hubs didn't work another idea was drilling and tapping/threading the king pin holes M4, this would recycle all my stripped knuckles and with using a 4mm bolt it would fit in the bearing in the c hubs without a collr and a lot more area for a stronger load on the thread.

Think i will try this will my damaged ones over Christmas seeing as i wont have much to do and see how it goes. Thanks

[Welshy40]

To all who have a passon for Lazers happy new year guys. My resolution is to, well I hope to finally put to bed all the gremlins ive had recently and aim to be a real pain in the ar#e to all the new cars out there, my pit bi#ch for some of these events next winter series will be a top 20 UK racer so should make a difference.

Id like to thank Rama aka Alcyon, Fibrelyte, Kamtec, Racer mag, Niclear RC aka Dave Belsten and Answer Rc for all their support plus a big thanks to everyone else here who have helped me get to where I am now. I never thought so many people would have as much passion for these buggies as I do and aim to keep racing at the highest level for the next 20 years. Iso watch out as i aim to be in your neighbourhood within ten years.

[Lowry]

Hi,

I just restored a Lazer ZX-R Mk II (short Motor plate, front and rear shock stay with 6 holes).

I also got a slightly used complete LAW 12 set (Hyper Clutch).

Can anybody give me a rough hint of what this LAW 12 is worth? Does not have to be an exact number, just is it more in the 10 € area or more in the 40 € area?

Thanks and happy new year to everyone

Ralf

[Welshy40]

You can still buy the hyper clutch brand new from some countries for under or up to £50 so unsure on what youd want for it. I need it specifically for one part so what would you be after £25 which includes p&p?

[Lowry]

Hi Welshy,
thanks for the hint with the LAW-12. I checked ebay in US and UK but did not know that it is still available. Anyway, I got now a good indication and will soon post it for sale.

Regarding the front knuckles:
I agree that using M4 threads with Pins could help. I can imagine the regular Pins becoming loose because of the friction between the hexagonal-head of the pin and the C-Hub.
Now if you use "just" Pins (no hexagonal top area) there should be less friction between pin and c-hub. Hence less danger of the pin becoming loose.

Attached some pics of what I tried some years ago to re-use my front knuckles with stripped down M3-threads.

When cutting the M4 thread in the knuckles I would recommend not to use all three "cutters"/ "drillers". If you only use the first and the second one of a set-of-three then the Pins will have more friction in the thread.

Just my 2 Cents

Cheers

Ralf

[rob m]

im glad that works then, never got round to trying it, i was thinking of using the m4 screws that are used for fastening the top deck down with.

[Welshy40]

Ralf,

Interesting and will try as well. Thanks

[DanB4]

i have a pair of Hyperclutch hubs if anyone needs em

[kek23k]

Yay! My Kamtec Tomcat shells arrived (I got a spare one too lol). I think I've finally got everything to put this ZXR together, now I just need the time to do it! :D

[Welshy40]

Yay! My Kamtec Tomcat shells arrived (I got a spare one too lol). I think I've finally got everything to put this ZXR together, now I just need the time to do it! :D

Nice, that shell makes the car look mean and the one pictured on Kamtec is mine and am still using it, quality product.

[kek23k]

I know it's your shell and just wanted to say thanks for helping Kamtec get it back to market. Should go really well with my CF tub, which I also have you to thank for (and Fibrelyte obviously!) :D

[OptimaFan]

I forgot what the Tomcat shell looked like, but after I re-freshed my memory, I feel very happy to see it available again.

[Welshy40]

I know it's your shell and just wanted to say thanks for helping Kamtec get it back to market. Should go really well with my CF tub, which I also have you to thank for (and Fibrelyte obviously!) :D

Your welcome, i didnt realise how big a hit the tub would be when i came up with the idea but a bit gutted that I earnt zero from all sold, but am happy it made a difference to others and is still going strong again.

[HKS_TRD]

I have a Tomcat shell slated for one of my tubs too
Not sure if it will go on the new Fibrelyte shelfer tub or the vintage concom rummer tub yet

I just built a pair of velvet shocks for the rear of SWB Mid shelfer and they are leaking, either that or residue from when I filled them with oil. I used Silicon shock oil, could that be too thin for them?

[Welshy40]

I have a Tomcat shell slated for one of my tubs too
Not sure if it will go on the new Fibrelyte shelfer tub or the vintage concom rummer tub yet

I just built a pair of velvet shocks for the rear of SWB Mid shelfer and they are leaking, either that or residue from when I filled them with oil. I used Silicon shock oil, could that be too thin for them?

I always use associated outer shock cap seals as most leak without those on. Makes a big difference

[HKS_TRD]

Is this for the upper or lower shock cap?
Luckily I need to pull these apart anyway to put stoppers on the shafts, its only a shelfer and I want it to sit nice and low, maybe I shouldn't have bothered putting oil in them

Whats the part number, do the ZX-S shocks have those seals on them?

[alcyon]

How much is a tub chassis anyway.

[type49rs]

Hi Guys, first post here.

Wow, I have just finished reading all 246 pages of this thread and I'm totally blown away by the dedication shown towards keeping the Lazer on the track in the modern era. There's some very talented people on here.

I used to race a Lazer ZX and then a ZXR back in the day and have some very fond memories of those cars and after finding this thread I bit the bullet and purchased a used ZXR of ebay with the intention of reliving my youth:lol:

The car I bought appears to have many period hop-ups, the brands of which I'm unfamiliar with as many of the aftermarket brands were not imported here in New Zealand. From this thread I've managed to figure out what brand some of them are but may need some help with the others. I'll try to post some photo's (when I figure out how) from the original ebay auction.

[Welshy40]

Is this for the upper or lower shock cap?
Luckily I need to pull these apart anyway to put stoppers on the shafts, its only a shelfer and I want it to sit nice and low, maybe I shouldn't have bothered putting oil in them

Whats the part number, do the ZX-S shocks have those seals on them?

Top of shock body around the thread of the shock where the cap screws on. Think i did that to your zxs shocks when i built them.

[Welshy40]

How much is a tub chassis anyway.

£120 not including p&p, & possibly tax. Still its value for money when you realise how its made and i still dont earn a penny from this as you know my passion is to keep the car and parts still available to race.

[DanB4]

I have decided to sell my ZX-R with full Fibrelyte carbon tub/upper deck/towers and Parma Tomcat body - just need to get round to uploading pics.

PM or email me if interested.

Dan

dan@muchmoreracing.com

[Welshy40]

Hi Guys, first post here.

Wow, I have just finished reading all 246 pages of this thread and I'm totally blown away by the dedication shown towards keeping the Lazer on the track in the modern era. There's some very talented people on here.

I used to race a Lazer ZX and then a ZXR back in the day and have some very fond memories of those cars and after finding this thread I bit the bullet and purchased a used ZXR of ebay with the intention of reliving my youth:lol:

The car I bought appears to have many period hop-ups, the brands of which I'm unfamiliar with as many of the aftermarket brands were not imported here in New Zealand. From this thread I've managed to figure out what brand some of them are but may need some help with the others. I'll try to post some photo's (when I figure out how) from the original ebay auction.

Welcome to the club. Lets see them but can say if you have the alloy pivot blocks, bluey green front castor blocks (teamline), rc10 type screw on slipper clutch (hyper clutch), ujs all around, titanium tie rods, and carbon fibre chassis & towers then its pretty much spot on. However you will need a vts slipper clutch from the B4 and alcyons layshaft to bring it up to the pace of nowadays cars. This once set up correctly is much more fun than any of these new cars to drive.

[Dudders]

Selling my lovely ZXR if it's of interest.

[Welshy40]

Selling my lovely ZXR if it's of interest.

Your crazy, why not hold onto it for future vintage events, works fine on your track.

[type49rs]

Ok here's a few pics from the original Ebay auction.
The car came from the UK. The seller stated that the car had been in a cupboard for over 20 years so therefore I would assume that the hop-ups would all be period items.

From reading this thread I've managed to work out that the front castor blocks and front shock tower are Teamline.

The chassis has a 'W' cut into it so I believe this would be from Wasp.......I assume the carbon top plate would be from Wasp too. I'm not sure about the carbon brace above the motor.... would this be a Wasp item?

The slipper clutch appears to be a Wasp item also. How did these compare to the standard ZXR slipper clutch?

The finned motor plate I am unsure of.....and also the blue alloy suspension arm mounts. Ideas anybody?

Nearly forgot.... HPI wheels too:thumbsup:

[Dudders]

Your crazy, why not hold onto it for future vintage events, works fine on your track.


Change of racing priorities. It's in the sale section :thumbsup:

[isobarik]

Change of racing priorities. It's in the sale section :thumbsup:

white cap designs cant find it anywhere .....

mvh isobarik

[kek23k]

Very jel of the Teamline front shock mount! :D

Ok here's a few pics from the original Ebay auction.
The car came from the UK. The seller stated that the car had been in a cupboard for over 20 years so therefore I would assume that the hop-ups would all be period items.

From reading this thread I've managed to work out that the front castor blocks and front shock tower are Teamline.

The chassis has a 'W' cut into it so I believe this would be from Wasp.......I assume the carbon top plate would be from Wasp too. I'm not sure about the carbon brace above the motor.... would this be a Wasp item?

The slipper clutch appears to be a Wasp item also. How did these compare to the standard ZXR slipper clutch?

The finned motor plate I am unsure of.....and also the blue alloy suspension arm mounts. Ideas anybody?

Nearly forgot.... HPI wheels too:thumbsup:

[Dudders]

white cap designs cant find it anywhere .....

mvh isobarik

White Cap Design aka Jimmy McCabe

[alcyon]

Welshy40, do you have any idea why the ZX rear hubs wear out so quickly? It wears at the hingepin holes and causes a lot of slop, even the new ones are somewhat like that. Shimming only takes away some play.

[HKS_TRD]

Top of shock body around the thread of the shock where the cap screws on. Think i did that to your zxs shocks when i built them.

Got a part number for those seals?

[kek23k]

Not mine but cool to see an original tomcat/cf tub combo :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-Fibrelyte-Tub-Carbon-Fibre-4wd-1-10-Lazer-ZXR-ZX-R-like-Yokomo-YZ10-/181640383354

[Welshy40]

Welshy40, do you have any idea why the ZX rear hubs wear out so quickly? It wears at the hingepin holes and causes a lot of slop, even the new ones are somewhat like that. Shimming only takes away some play.

Im at a loss mate, mine have slop but spacing removes most of it. Have you tried the alloy ones?

[alcyon]

Im at a loss mate, mine have slop but spacing removes most of it. Have you tried the alloy ones?
You mean there are alloy ones ?

[DanB4]

Not mine but cool to see an original tomcat/cf tub combo :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-Fibrelyte-Tub-Carbon-Fibre-4wd-1-10-Lazer-ZXR-ZX-R-like-Yokomo-YZ10-/181640383354

That's me if anyone wants it PM me :)

[isobarik]

You mean there are alloy ones ?

spw123

or you could use the tfw dont remember the number...

mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

White Cap Design aka Jimmy McCabe

a link perhaps ???

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

You mean there are alloy ones ?

Yes, and I use a pair sometimes when the tracks bumpy.

If the ones you are using are CF then that explains it, as they do wear quickly. Standard plastic versions are the best. You will have some slop but not much compared to the new cars of today. They are slop city :mad:

[Welshy40]

Not mine but cool to see an original tomcat/cf tub combo :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-Fibrelyte-Tub-Carbon-Fibre-4wd-1-10-Lazer-ZXR-ZX-R-like-Yokomo-YZ10-/181640383354


Weave looks like it was bought in the first few years it was released. Looks good.

[rob m]

Welshy40, do you have any idea why the ZX rear hubs wear out so quickly? It wears at the hingepin holes and causes a lot of slop, even the new ones are somewhat like that. Shimming only takes away some play.
alcoyn are you talking about part la28 rear hub carrier? drill a hole on the inside and use a 3mm grub screw to fasten against the pin, a lot of new cars have this to take away slop. Doing this will make the pin in the w/bone rotate and wear them instead so this may be a problem to most people, but as you can make your own that may not be an issue for you.
I have a lot of slop around the wheel bearing/ uj area if anybody has any tips for getting rid of that please?

[Welshy40]

alcoyn are you talking about part la28 rear hub carrier? drill a hole on the inside and use a 3mm grub screw to fasten against the pin, a lot of new cars have this to take away slop. Doing this will make the pin in the w/bone rotate and wear them instead so this may be a problem to most people, but as you can make your own that may not be an issue for you.
I have a lot of slop around the wheel bearing/ uj area if anybody has any tips for getting rid of that please?

Ceramic bearings and better ujs. I use mip version which Kyosho sell as their own brand, think its LA245

[Welshy40]

You mean there are alloy ones ?


https://kenonhobby.3dcartstores.com/mobile/PN-Racing-ZX5-TF5-7075-Alum-Rear-Hub-Set-Blue_p_43325.html

Enjoy:woot:

[HKS_TRD]

There is always the 3 racing ZX-5 rear alloy hubs as an option

[alcyon]

alcoyn are you talking about part la28 rear hub carrier? drill a hole on the inside and use a 3mm grub screw to fasten against the pin, a lot of new cars have this to take away slop. Doing this will make the pin in the w/bone rotate and wear them instead so this may be a problem to most people, but as you can make your own that may not be an issue for you.
I have a lot of slop around the wheel bearing/ uj area if anybody has any tips for getting rid of that please?
Indeed its LA-28, and I am using the originals. That's a good idea. will try that. as for universals slop, I use 5mm bearing shims to tighten up the play. Change bearings if you have too.

[Welshy40]

There is always the 3 racing ZX-5 rear alloy hubs as an option

Problem is its lower so prefer Kenons as you have an extra hole and works out

[HKS_TRD]

Has anyone got any (LA-112?) ZX-S gearbox post parts for sale. I need four of the little flanges that hold the bearings in place, two tensioner posts and some of the other posts if anyone has any full sets or bits let me know

[Welshy40]

Has anyone got any (LA-112?) ZX-S gearbox post parts for sale. I need four of the little flanges that hold the bearings in place, two tensioner posts and some of the other posts if anyone has any full sets or bits let me know

If you have frien in the USA then kyosho US have but wont ship to you only to a US resident.

The washers flange can be made using same thickness washers one ontop of the other and a slightly longer screw with a nut. Also a long screw with coloured bushings can be used for tensioners, like the ones i used to tension the plastic rear gearbox belts, and have a few if interested.

[HKS_TRD]

James do you have a link to the actual site that shows them available to order, I may be able to get someone in the US to order them for me

With the smaller washers have you done this yourself, if so any pics?

[Welshy40]

James do you have a link to the actual site that shows them available to order, I may be able to get someone in the US to order them for me

With the smaller washers have you done this yourself, if so any pics?

Kyosho US website.

Ive no pics but if you have an original measure it, both the big section and small, both width and thickness and get the two different sizes and a longer screw plus nut and it works. I did this on my second gearbox.


Shock cap O ring number as6469 or as7484

[HKS_TRD]

I just checked their site and it says they are out of stock.
I'm trying to decide which tub I run and which becomes a shelfer, the new Fibrelyte or the vintage twill weave tub. Leaning towards shelfing the vintage one

[Welshy40]

Use the new one as its easy to replace.

Ebay has once in a while LA112 if Kyosho USA has run out.

[HKS_TRD]

Use the new one as its easy to replace.

Ebay has once in a while LA112 if Kyosho USA has run out.

Thats what I am thinking too, just means I need to get a few more bits from Fibrelyte as I had different setups planned for the shelf and the runner and I can't swap the carbon parts over seeing as one is regular weave and the other is old school twill weave and all parts were made to match

BTW figured out the shocks are leaking from the seal on the lower cap, there doesn't seem to be much crush on the seals at all when you do the caps up, these are the 38mm bodies not 42 maybe they aren't made quite right or maybe the seals are just defective but they are new and not torn.
Would the fact I used HKS Silicon shock oil make them more prone to leak, does the regular shock oil make the seals swell up perhaps?

[Lowry]

Bought it in 1991 but never drove it a lot. Over the years I tried a lot of modifications, changed back and forth.


Steering Uni crank replaced with aluminum parts
Arm bracket also replaced with aluminum parts
Rear upper deck also aluminum
Special Motor plate
and so on


I hope to drive it more often now. The tyres on the pictures are just mounted for drifting on the street.

Radio is a Kyosho 2.4 GHz while power still comes from a brushed System. I am simply to sentimental about the times when we tried to built our own armatures.

Cheers and have fun with your Lazers

Ralf

[Welshy40]

Guys, need some help, need a break down of la231 especially the part number for the dog bone section

[Welshy40]

Thats what I am thinking too, just means I need to get a few more bits from Fibrelyte as I had different setups planned for the shelf and the runner and I can't swap the carbon parts over seeing as one is regular weave and the other is old school twill weave and all parts were made to match

BTW figured out the shocks are leaking from the seal on the lower cap, there doesn't seem to be much crush on the seals at all when you do the caps up, these are the 38mm bodies not 42 maybe they aren't made quite right or maybe the seals are just defective but they are new and not torn.
Would the fact I used HKS Silicon shock oil make them more prone to leak, does the regular shock oil make the seals swell up perhaps?

Nope, change the seals, if just a shelfer use three seals instead of the plastic washers.

[kek23k]

Another one with the Teamline front shock mount! I will get one some day *shakes fist at sky*

:D

Bought it in 1991 but never drove it a lot. Over the years I tried a lot of modifications, changed back and forth.


Steering Uni crank replaced with aluminum parts
Arm bracket also replaced with aluminum parts
Rear upper deck also aluminum
Special Motor plate
and so on


I hope to drive it more often now. The tyres on the pictures are just mounted for drifting on the street.

Radio is a Kyosho 2.4 GHz while power still comes from a brushed System. I am simply to sentimental about the times when we tried to built our own armatures.

Cheers and have fun with your Lazers

Ralf

[HKS_TRD]

Nope, change the seals, if just a shelfer use three seals instead of the plastic washers.

Its the seal between the bottom cap and shock body that's leaking, o-rings on shaft sealing fine.
BTW Stephen wanted to know which of your five gearbox designs I needed

[type49rs]

Another one with the Teamline front shock mount! I will get one some day *shakes fist at sky*

:D

Mine actually has a small fracture in it and I was thinking of sending off a scan to Fibrelyte in the hope that they can make me another. Would you be interested in one?

Does anybody know where the teamline stuff was made?

[Welshy40]

Its the seal between the bottom cap and shock body that's leaking, o-rings on shaft sealing fine.
BTW Stephen wanted to know which of your five gearbox designs I needed

The last version he made for me.

Im unsure on the seals, maybe buy replacement seals from kyosho as they shouldnt leak with even the lightest of oils.

[Welshy40]

Mine actually has a small fracture in it and I was thinking of sending off a scan to Fibrelyte in the hope that they can make me another. Would you be interested in one?

Does anybody know where the teamline stuff was made?

Have a look on fibrelytes web site as there is a vast selection, i use the semi circular version as it aids you back on your wheels when you roll. Its possible your design may be on there as well. He can make it if you also send him the original and recomend getting it made slightly thicker.

By the way nice car

[type49rs]

Just had a look at Fibrelyte's range but they don't have the Teamline tower listed. The tower I have is 3mm thick. What thickness do you run Welshy? Also what would be stronger out of the twill weave or the conventional weave?

[Welshy40]

Just had a look at Fibrelyte's range but they don't have the Teamline tower listed. The tower I have is 3mm thick. What thickness do you run Welshy? Also what would be stronger out of the twill weave or the conventional weave?

Send them yours and they can copy and add to the list of things they can make for this car and know a lot of guys wouldnt mind being able to buy it.

I run 4mm front, 3mm rear and do this only because I am going considerably faster than most. If using the brushed motors stay the same thickness.Weave, go for the latest design as its stronger than what RC manufacturers use, the twill weave was on the very first tub chassis as thats what they had avaialable at the time when I had it made and admit it did last a long time (10 years with 3 club events a week and a main race event on the weekend) but unsure on strength between both types now.

[kek23k]

Mine actually has a small fracture in it and I was thinking of sending off a scan to Fibrelyte in the hope that they can make me another. Would you be interested in one?

Does anybody know where the teamline stuff was made?

If you could spare your tower to get a copy made at Fibre-Lyte I would be forever in your debt! Well maybe not quite but I would be really appreciative, in fact if you were to send yours over I'd be happy to pay for a pair to be made. One for me and one for you. I'd go either 3 or 4mm.

Ema did me a scan of the tower before but Stephen didn't feel confident he could match it up accurately but he did say if I could get hold of one to send over then he'd be happy to make a template. Let me know if you're serious and I'll fire an email over to Stephen to let him know I've found a donor! :D

[type49rs]

If you could spare your tower to get a copy made at Fibre-Lyte I would be forever in your debt! Well maybe not quite but I would be really appreciative, in fact if you were to send yours over I'd be happy to pay for a pair to be made. One for me and one for you. I'd go either 3 or 4mm.

Ema did me a scan of the tower before but Stephen didn't feel confident he could match it up accurately but he did say if I could get hold of one to send over then he'd be happy to make a template. Let me know if you're serious and I'll fire an email over to Stephen to let him know I've found a donor! :D

That's a very generous offer but I need to order some other stuff from Fibrelyte anyway but thanks all the same:).

I have been in contact with Stephen and I'm about to send him the tower. I'll ask him to add it to the site so everybody can have access to it. I'm in New Zealand so turn around time may take a while.

I'm probably going to go for 3mm conventional weave as Welshy has suggested it would be stronger than the twill weave..... and besides it will match the rest of the car:thumbsup:

[HKS_TRD]

This is great timing as I am in the process of organising some bits with Stephen and a replica teamline tower would be perfect for one of my projects so thankyou from me too
I had sent Stephen a HPI upper deck which he copied for me so if anyone else wants one made he has that on file too, it suits the MKI chassis

[Ema]

If you can't get sorted let me know; I still got the Teamline tower somewhere ;).

Bye
Ema

[kek23k]

Fingers crossed, the Teamline front mount is the only thing I'm missing in my nostalgic whim to rebuild my original car lol.

[Welshy40]

If you can't get sorted let me know; I still got the Teamline tower somewhere ;).

Bye
Ema

Mate, everything in triplicate for you :thumbsup:

[kek23k]

I suppose I better start building this beast lol :D

[HKS_TRD]

Kyosho US website.

Ive no pics but if you have an original measure it, both the big section and small, both width and thickness and get the two different sizes and a longer screw plus nut and it works. I did this on my second gearbox.


Shock cap O ring number as6469 or as7484

I have been looking at M2 washers and all the ones I findare 5mm OD whereas the la-112 washers are 6mm on the wider section, will 5mm still work to hold the diff outdrive bearings?

[type49rs]

I suppose I better start building this beast lol :D

I have sent the tower to Stephen.... will keep you informed of any updates:)

[kek23k]

I have sent the tower to Stephen.... will keep you informed of any updates:)


Fantastic, thank you muchly :D

[Welshy40]

I have been looking at M2 washers and all the ones I findare 5mm OD whereas the la-112 washers are 6mm on the wider section, will 5mm still work to hold the diff outdrive bearings?

Dan, been really busy so apologies for the delay. Are the screws M2? If not would advise getting the identical size washers needed, top & bottom and roughly the same size as the screw.

[HKS_TRD]

Hi James
The screws are M2
The only way to get a 2.6 mm OD washer is if you go to an M2.5 washer but the central hole is larger so in theory washer could cover less of the bearing if off centre
Did you just switch to M2.5 screws instead and enlarge the holes on the gearbox to suit?

[Welshy40]

Hi James
The screws are M2
The only way to get a 2.6 mm OD washer is if you go to an M2.5 washer but the central hole is larger so in theory washer could cover less of the bearing if off centre
Did you just switch to M2.5 screws instead and enlarge the holes on the gearbox to suit?

I cant remember exactly what i used but know the screw was slightly longer but identical size to original. Mind you i do remember just reversing this LA112 washer on the outside of my gearbox on one of my protos so may be another way for you to do it as that way all you need to do is make sure everything on the layshaft is packed in without binding and should be an easy escape plan with a single washer just over the edge of the bearing. Make sure the washer is thicker than normal as the tolerances are quite high.

Another alternative is send an original washer to a machinist and get a few made.

[Welshy40]

Ok, new tub chassis arrived today with a few little mods, two holes removed from the rear gear box section and instead of the side plate in front of the gearbox spur cover I have copied the u shaped section from the other side and will test to see if its ok. I originally kept that wall to protect the spur gear from side impacts.

Ive also fitted the RPM knuckle arms and now have a few more mods to do to get this to work,such as adding a 68mm Uj instead of the 65mm to stop the ujs popping out. Does anyone else have a spare set of RPM Knuckles that they dont need?

[HKS_TRD]

Didn't realise you were getting another tub made
I left all four rear gearbox holes off of my tub, are you going to use two of them for something else?
Looking forward to seeing the new setup take shape

I'm still getting a few more bits anodised before I can start building up my runner along with a few more CF bits from Stephen

It never ends!

[Welshy40]

Didn't realise you were getting another tub made
I left all four rear gearbox holes off of my tub, are you going to use two of them for something else?
Looking forward to seeing the new setup take shape

I'm still getting a few more bits anodised before I can start building up my runner along with a few more CF bits from Stephen

It never ends!

I know, wait till you see what im working one, just waiting on some washers and shock bits and then it drool time:thumbsup:

[rob m]

Ok, new tub chassis arrived today with a few little mods, two holes removed from the rear gear box section and instead of the side plate in front of the gearbox spur cover I have copied the u shaped section from the other side and will test to see if its ok. I originally kept that wall to protect the spur gear from side impacts.

Ive also fitted the RPM knuckle arms and now have a few more mods to do to get this to work,such as adding a 68mm Uj instead of the 65mm to stop the ujs popping out. Does anyone else have a spare set of RPM Knuckles that they dont need?
James, ive already had my tub chassis done this way with the 'U' shape cut out on both sides of the motor and it works great. easy to work on e.g removing gear cover and screws and had no issues when out on the race track :thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

Rob,

Looking good, will give my verdict in last weekend of Feb, i recall discussing this with Martin from Fibrelyte when he asked me on how i wanted the chassis made. This wasnt done as we thought it wouldnt stop the chassis tweaking but so went for the block with a hole but now unsure so only thing i havent tried so fibrelyte were happy to sort me out.

Dan,

Sorry, yes all four gearbox rear holes removed so only have inner pivot block and rear shock tower mounting holes. Yes it never ends, mind you saying that the chassis is done, shock towers done, rear gearbox done, front gearbox next and then to finish it off the dreaded diffs. I reckon three more years.

[rob m]

Is this a new car you are building James ? If so what changes will your new one have over your current one as that is heavily moded already can't think how you can upgrade what you already have......

As for my tub chassis, i found it a big improvement over the standard carbon fibre chassis , the car was a lot more stable, responsive and direct when powering out of corners and taking high speed sections.

[HKS_TRD]

James, what have you got planned for the front gearbox, I have two nylon front gearbox halves but would like a more replaceable solution

Is there any way to get more of the blue belts made?

[type49rs]

Quick question.....I have the 7.5 degree teamline castor blocks and was wondering what kick-up on the front arms to run? I've had a look through the pics on here but the front bumper always seems to obscure the front pivot block mounting position:confused:

[Welshy40]

Is this a new car you are building James ? If so what changes will your new one have over your current one as that is heavily moded already can't think how you can upgrade what you already have......

As for my tub chassis, i found it a big improvement over the standard carbon fibre chassis , the car was a lot more stable, responsive and direct when powering out of corners and taking high speed sections.

Front gearbox design i touched on a while back with Oosh123 but had problems with our design as it flexed so much all the screws came loose. Ive an idea based on my rear gearbox design so aiming on doing that, also diffs were discussed with Oosh and he did the idea in 3d so want to do a real 3d version as a tester and if satisfied will make it.

Yup dealt with most issues but still little gremlins to resolve andcwhen done should be unstopable.

Great on your car, i found it liked a lower centre of gravity so on carpet its flat on the deck which doesnt make sense but works

[Welshy40]

James, what have you got planned for the front gearbox, I have two nylon front gearbox halves but would like a more replaceable solution

Is there any way to get more of the blue belts made?

Unsure on blue belts, i suppose if you search for belt manufactures and send an original front & rear belt should be possible to do any colour.

Front gearbox may be a cf version one cf piece on each side, but plenty of ideas on it at the moment.

[type49rs]

Quick question.....I have the 7.5 degree teamline castor blocks and was wondering what kick-up on the front arms to run? I've had a look through the pics on here but the front bumper always seems to obscure the front pivot block mounting position:confused:

Anybody?

[rob m]

I just run mine with the kickup as per manual.

[Welshy40]

Anybody?

front upper hole front gearbox. for rear I prefer rear inner pivot block with bigger section higher and back pivot block reversed compared to manual so lower to give kick up there as well

[type49rs]

Awesome, thanks guys. The main reason I'm asking is because I have a lot of bump steer and running on the lower hole does improve it a little but I would like to go back to the upper hole for more castor angle.

Interestingly I tried the blue pureten steering setup but because it raises the centre link, it made the bump steer worse so I went back to the kit steering.

I have just swapped the front knuckles left to right to raise the height of the steering arm and the bump steer is nearly perfect. Will have a play with the upper link position next to get that last little bit but will wait till I get the teamline shock mount back from Fibrelyte.

I have set the rear kickup as you've said Welshy

[Welshy40]

Im puzzled, with the pure ten blue steering you should get zero bump steer so need to understand why, so post a picture of your knuckles with ball joint placement and the steering plate and steering plate holders as i believe you have something spaced wrongly. Once the bump steer has been totally removed the car does feel a bit better and more balanced.

Also are you using a wider front end or standard (inner or outer hole on castor block)

[type49rs]

Im puzzled, with the pure ten blue steering you should get zero bump steer so need to understand why, so post a picture of your knuckles with ball joint placement and the steering plate and steering plate holders as i believe you have something spaced wrongly. Once the bump steer has been totally removed the car does feel a bit better and more balanced.

Also are you using a wider front end or standard (inner or outer hole on castor block)

Yes, using the wide front end. Here's some pics of the car in it's current state....

[rob m]

Thats a lot of caster with you using the top hingepin holes and 7.5deg c hubs.
Try putting a m3 nylock nut or something of that thickness ( along with what you have now ) at both ends of the steering link , one on the steering plate to lower it and one on the trailing arm to raise it and see how that is.

[Welshy40]

Yes, using the wide front end. Here's some pics of the car in it's current state....

I see the problem. I had this issue in 89 and found by opting for associated ball joints resolved my issues. The old style touring car or worlds re release RC10 ball joints are what i still use as they just dont wear out or pop off unlike the new versions. However an easy tip is you try to get the steering tie rod at almost and say almost as it isnt exactly level with the uj so when you move the wishbone up the tie rod is getting more level when you depress the wishbone upwards. Trial and error.

Tomorrow i will add pics to here of mine so you can see. Ignore the chassis and spacing on the steering chassis poles as that done due to having a 3 piece chassis at the moment. Sorry just realised my longer ujs havent arrived yet so will delay pics as ive got RPM knuckles on so needs refining.

I would not recomend using spacers or washers on the knuckles but as your not using the blue pure ten you will find the only way to remove Bump steer is by spacing the underneath of the steering plate, whereas the pure ten i dont use any under the plate. Also on the standard knuckles i cut off the top lug that the screw starts to screw into as that made it into no bump steer. I swear there are pics on here of my car with a flat chassis that may show this.

[type49rs]

Thats a lot of caster with you using the top hingepin holes and 7.5deg c hubs.
Try putting a m3 nylock nut or something of that thickness ( along with what you have now ) at both ends of the steering link , one on the steering plate to lower it and one on the trailing arm to raise it and see how that is.

I agree Rob, it does look to be a lot of castor. I've had a look at your build thread (nice car by the way) and yours doesn't seem to have as much castor. Are you able to post a pic from side on?

[type49rs]

I see the problem. I had this issue in 89 and found by opting for associated ball joints resolved my issues. The old style touring car or worlds re release RC10 ball joints are what i still use as they just dont wear out or pop off unlike the new versions. However an easy tip is you try to get the steering tie rod at almost and say almost as it isnt exactly level with the uj so when you move the wishbone up the tie rod is getting more level when you depress the wishbone upwards. Trial and error.

Tomorrow i will add pics to here of mine so you can see. Ignore the chassis and spacing on the steering chassis poles as that done due to having a 3 piece chassis at the moment. Sorry just realised my longer ujs havent arrived yet so will delay pics as ive got RPM knuckles on so needs refining.

I would not recomend using spacers or washers on the knuckles but as your not using the blue pure ten you will find the only way to remove Bump steer is by spacing the underneath of the steering plate, whereas the pure ten i dont use any under the plate. Also on the standard knuckles i cut off the top lug that the screw starts to screw into as that made it into no bump steer. I swear there are pics on here of my car with a flat chassis that may show this.

Thanks Welshy......that's a good tip about keeping the uj and the tierod almost level. As the car sits now (with standard steering and knuckles swapped L to R) the uj's and tierods are pretty much spot on and nearly no bump steer.

It's strange because the trend seems to be to 'fit' the blue steering to elimate bump steer whereas I'm 'removing' the blue steering to eliminate bump steer.

Yes would love to see some pics of your setup. Compared to Rob's car mine appears to have more castor angle:confused:

[rob m]

Thanks Welshy......that's a good tip about keeping the uj and the tierod almost level. As the car sits now (with standard steering and knuckles swapped L to R) the uj's and tierods are pretty much spot on and nearly no bump steer.

It's strange because the trend seems to be to 'fit' the blue steering to elimate bump steer whereas I'm 'removing' the blue steering to eliminate bump steer.

Yes would love to see some pics of your setup. Compared to Rob's car mine appears to have more castor angle:confused: The blue steering won't eliminate bump steer as every time you change caster angle or camber it will afect the bump steer because you are changing arc pivot points and angles as the suspension compresses. The reason for adding bump steer spacers is to bring the steering back into the right point to suit the changed settings.
I have my front pivot block on the lower gearbox holes. With you using the upper holes to give more caster you have made a bigger height gap between the steering plate and trailing arms. Using the blue steering assembly will make the gap even bigger as it raises the steering plate even more and you don't want that. You have discoverd that using the black steering assembly it improves the bump steer as it lowers the inner steering ballstud, then you have turned the steering knuckles upside down and by doing that you have raised the outer steering link ballstud and you said that has improved the bump steer. Thats why i recommended putting the nylock nuts under the inner and outer ballstuds, make sure you have enough thread to screw into knuckle and steering plate though.

[rob m]

I agree Rob, it does look to be a lot of castor. I've had a look at your build thread (nice car by the way) and yours doesn't seem to have as much castor. Are you able to post a pic from side on?Thankyou, yes i will post a side on picture for you tonight.

[Welshy40]

I only use 7.5 castor but base my camber at either 1 or 2 degrees but have zero bump steer, so even tho Rob is correct and I do seem to defy logik sometimes it is achievable. I know originally when I sat down in 89 it took me a lot of time to work it out, yet when the blue pure ten item came out it made life easier due to being slightly higher and meant no spacers between that and the plate.

Also you can space the plastic steering sections on the posts, but by doing that you will need other suitable washers to make it all flush with the top deck.

Will find some pics and post. I also mived the knuckle top king pin to the inner edge of my teamline hubs, by drilling a screw hole and this also made a big difference

[Welshy40]

Pics of my old car that I sold in 2002 (I think) and luckily bought it back a couple of years ago and was used as a shelfer. This handles superbly.

[rob m]

I agree Rob, it does look to be a lot of castor. I've had a look at your build thread (nice car by the way) and yours doesn't seem to have as much castor. Are you able to post a pic from side on?
Here are the pics of my car you asked for.

[Welshy40]

Rob?

Is the ball joint on the castor block raised as the tie rod does hit the edge of the block when fully in the up position and does cause issues when driving it hard?

[rob m]

Rob?

Is the ball joint on the castor block raised as the tie rod does hit the edge of the block when fully in the up position and does cause issues when driving it hard? I know what you are saying, but with -2 camber and in the inner upper hole on the tower it just touches at full stroke, but not enough to put any strain on it. Its been a thought of mine to put some type of bump stop on the shock shaft if i was to use a different lnk posistion.

What type of surface do you run your lazer on, and is it high grip?

[Welshy40]

Yes on carpet, but had this issue on grass, hence why i drilled at the inner edges on the teamline castor block. This made a big difference.

[isobarik]

Yes, using the wide front end. Here's some pics of the car in it's current state....

use the lower set of holes on the front gearbox....

mvh isobarik

[type49rs]

I just run mine with the kickup as per manual.

Thanks for the additional pics Rob. Strange....I also set my kickup as per the manual but my manual shows to use the top hole hence the reason why I have so much castor with the teamline c-hubs. I will go back to the lower hole and everything will be sweet.....might even try the blue steering again:thumbsup: Thanks again for your help.....looking forward to seeing your tub chassied car finished:drool:

[type49rs]

I only use 7.5 castor but base my camber at either 1 or 2 degrees but have zero bump steer, so even tho Rob is correct and I do seem to defy logik sometimes it is achievable. I know originally when I sat down in 89 it took me a lot of time to work it out, yet when the blue pure ten item came out it made life easier due to being slightly higher and meant no spacers between that and the plate.

Also you can space the plastic steering sections on the posts, but by doing that you will need other suitable washers to make it all flush with the top deck.

Will find some pics and post. I also mived the knuckle top king pin to the inner edge of my teamline hubs, by drilling a screw hole and this also made a big difference

Very nice car Welshy.... thanks for the pics. Think I got it sorted now.....see my previous post. I have considered changing the ball ends and links for associated or similiar but for now I'm going for the period look..... but I'll probably change my mind next week :lol: