501X setup discussion

[jimmy]

Please discuss your 501X setups / questions in here! :)

[bender]

I posted this on one of the other Tamiya threads, but it seems more appropriate here.

Has anyone tried Losi springs on the 501?

My kit rear springs rub slightly on the shock bodies, and as AE springs are basically the same i assume they would too. I'd prefer to use a slightly larger diameter spring like the Losi ones but I don't know how well they'd fit on the bottom spring retainer or the adjusting collars.

Can anyone test this?

[jimmy]

my 501x kit rear springs rub on the df03 hopup bodies they are on at the moment. and my AE ones don't rub on the 501X shocks. I will see if I can test the losi springs out for you.

[woOdy]

did anyone go to Batley today? the reason i ask is that I believe that a 501x TQ'd.

[jimmy]

yeah whoever was driving that 501X was on fire. I think it was their first time driving the car too, not bad. Quickest in the final too - shame the guy rolled it and only got 2nd. Awesome.

[woOdy]

I heard that it was you Jim?

[jimmy]

haha no it wasn't me mate. I was in the bottom 2WD final struggling! haha

[woOdy]

It looked like your colours?

[Mrs oOple]

It might have been that newspaper reporter girlie? I saw her driving around with jimmys colours.

[jimmy]

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/batley040307/bigimages/NO5E2322.jpg

[usagi]

Hi Jimmy,
I noticed on rctech forums the comments you made about the inner wishbone wheelbase mod.
Was there any other setup changes to the car today?

[jimmy]

No, no other changes yet. The secret unnamed driver did notice the lack of - I guess you'd call it pack or pressure?? in the shocks - basically landing from the big jump on the flat, the car would bounce.

This is because I used the bleed screws and took ALL the air out - meaning there was no pressure at all on full compression (the shaft would barely push its self out) so instead of the shaft slowing down at the end of the travel it would hit hard at the bottom of the body and the car would bounce.
A little bit of pressure would have slowed it down enough to stop this I think and I noticed the car got unsettled from that big jump a couple of times where richard lowes car didn't.

So - we'll fix that for next time. Other than that, it was pretty awesome.

[woOdy]

I think that this driver who ever they are, did very well as it was the first time out and they sort of gave Richard lowe a run inside where Rich is very fast.;)

[Chrislong]

So what you are saying is the driver was good, but not the car? ;)

[woOdy]

Cheers Chris but I ment we a little track time I think that car would do better than it did. I have not raced 4wd for a while now so I was really happy with it. Its a shame there will be not UK TEAM.

[GRIFF55]

:confused: Any one got ideas on a basic set up for Tiverton? Haven't raced there in years, especially not a TAMIYA!!!! lol

[jimmy]

Stick the kit setup on it maybe - there aren't many tracks like tiverton in the world (horse poo tracks) but the kit dirt setup should be a start. For me I'd probably use the same setup I used indoors and maybe go to the kit (slightly softer) springs, probably would work well.

[GRIFF55]

Cheers, my missus has got horses, so maybe i can make a practice track!! ha ha

[usagi]

Jimmy,
Are you goint to update your setup sheets to include the new anti roll bars and caster block parts as discussed at kiddy?
Also....Did your mystery driver make any alterations to the setup when he kicked ass at Bury last weekend?
P.S
Photos of Kiddy look amazing....as usual :)

[jimmy]

Yeah I am going to change the setup sheet to include the three antiroll bars - and the new hubs. Might do it tonight if I get time :)

Mystery driver changed to shortest possible wheelbase and went to next hole from inside on the shock towers (to reduce roll) - I heard it was awesome around there :)

[Richard Lowe]

Quickest in the final too
Only because I couldn't be bothered to put my one-way diff in hehe :D

The Tamiya does seem to suit the super secret mystery driver very nicely :)

Regarding soaking up landings, it's probably a case of fine tuning the oil/piston combo. I build the shocks for my BJ4 with as little rebound as possible.

[usagi]

The mystery driver is........;)
Jimmy told me on Sunday who it is, but i'm not going to spoil the fun for everyone else.

[woOdy]

My Dad has just finished an over hall on oople 501x and I have told him I had a problem with the rear dif coming loose every run. I have not stripped it down untill now but the only thing he could fine is that the spring in the thrust bearing had not been squashed like the B4 should of been. On the track I was tightening the dif every run so hopefully this will sort it out.

[Dunc]

Woody, what do you mean by "the spring in the thrust bearing"? They are separate items, and should be on opposite sides of the differential assembly.

I've not experienced the differential working loose so quickly and I didn't squash the spring before installing it. Although, I may well give it a go now that you've mentioned it, just to be safe.

[stefke]

Haven't experienced the diff coming loose (squashed the spring first though), but the diff starts sounding (and feeling) like a coffee grinder after a few runs. I think it's a diff bal quality problem, same problem as the ZX5 had. Does anyone know if the Associated carbide diff balls are a direct fit ?

Sorry Jimmy, move me to the setup discussion thread !

[woOdy]

Woody, what do you mean by "the spring in the thrust bearing"? They are separate items, and should be on opposite sides of the differential assembly.

I've not experienced the differential working loose so quickly and I didn't squash the spring before installing it. Although, I may well give it a go now that you've mentioned it, just to be safe.

Yes I know, I was just trying to point out what I was talking about. Yes I also think its a ball problem now due to the balls are knackered. I have put shumi ones straight in.

[Dunc]

Okay, Woody. I'm a picky bugger at the best of times :D:rolleyes:

You could well be right about the diff. balls being the problem. I've not been using the kit ones, and as I said haven't experienced the diff. working loose....

[woOdy]

Okay, Woody. I'm a picky bugger at the best of times :D:rolleyes:

You could well be right about the diff. balls being the problem. I've not been using the kit ones, and as I said haven't experienced the diff. working loose....

What have you been using? This may be the hole problem.

[Dunc]

Some ceramic (Silicon Nitride) ones from http://www.bocabearings.com.

They do metric, so you can get the correct size (3mm, I think).

[jimmy]

Check out our site sponsor Kanzen racing also - they have some balls listed here:

http://www.kanzen-bearings.com/shop_rc/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=23

[Dunc]

Seamless, Jimmy, seamless.... :D ;)

[jimmy]

lol
Just thought I would drop that in, since Kanzen approached me about helping with the 501X - so all being well Stu will be racing with some Kanzen products on his car in the near future, putting them to the test.

[TRF_Tastic]

I've just been playing with using the shock bladders from the TRF TC shocks, in the offroad shocks and the initial results look to be quite promising, will let you guys know tomorrow how I get on.

[TRF_Tastic]

OK then guys question time here.

Raced the 501 today with a number of different drive options on it.

Oneway Standard shocks 35f AE blue spring med hole piston. 30r Ae Silver spring large hole piston. Car seemed to "dig in" on entry to corner, fine on exit jumped well. Any thoughts???

Same setup with Diff no problems with the front of the car at all.

Setup with the shock bladders used and diff awesome difference to stock shocks car was much more responsive!!

Didnt get to try the car with the shock bladders and the one-way.

Any thoughts on the issues with the front of the car.

[jimmy]

Hmmmm, what were your shock locations ? was it a high grip track? was the car tipping or just digging right down?
on high grip I like to put the shocks in on the tower and out on the arms (to a degree - do it a step at a time) it just tends to make the car feel more settled on high grip tracks to me.

[GRIFF55]

can anybody find out the 501x setup from hupo or josh numan from the cactus classic?:confused:

[jimmy]

I'll get hupos off him after he is back

[GRIFF55]

:D That will be great!! More setups the better(for me anyway!! lol)

[TRF_Tastic]

Hmmmm, what were your shock locations ? was it a high grip track? was the car tipping or just digging right down?
on high grip I like to put the shocks in on the tower and out on the arms (to a degree - do it a step at a time) it just tends to make the car feel more settled on high grip tracks to me.

Shock locations were front 3rd hole from outside on tower, and middle hole on the wishbones, the same for the rear of the car.

The grip was up there all day, even when it snowed for a while.

The car was defo digging in on corner entry, off power with the one way, fine on the highspeed corners with the power still on.

[stefke]

Check out our site sponsor Kanzen racing also - they have some balls listed here:

http://www.kanzen-bearings.com/shop_rc/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=23


Just ordered 2 sets of ceramic diff balls from them. 10 minutes later I received an email that they were shipped !!! :o Talking about swift service !!! Sponsor approved Jimmy ! :D

Another question : are these the Yokomo shock shafts that fit the TRF ? :

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=YYS5S2T
and
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=YYS5M2T

[HairySteve]

I've got Yokomo shafts in the shocks on my TRF, the part numbers are YS-5S-2T for the front and YS-5L-2T rear. I've had some pretty big knocks and not bent or broken any but they're a bit pricey.
-Steve

[woOdy]

I am really stuck. On sunday I had a problem in round 3 when the car would not brake in a straight line. I did change a few things to go into round three but I have checked these and all is fine. I have checked all my hinge pins, wishbones, difs etc. all is fine. The car was ok in practice, round 1 and 2. The only thing I can find is that the wheel base is out about 3mm from 1 side to the other. I have used the correct washers and they are the same size but even messuring hubs to a screw in the chassic. Any ideas or has anyone else had this problem.

[jimmy]

Your dad had a look Stu?
Is this what you'd describe as tweak? maybe take it all apart and put it back together and problem solved?
If you want I'll come over sat and we'll rebuild it whilst the girls chat haha..

[woOdy]

Your dad had a look Stu?
Is this what you'd describe as tweak? maybe take it all apart and put it back together and problem solved?
If you want I'll come over sat and we'll rebuild it whilst the girls chat haha..

The reason I have my Dad on the case is because he has a micrometer in his eye. If anyone can find the problem he will. He is also retiered so he has all day and all week.

[jimmy]

he's ace, he used to scare me - in fact he still does. but he's the man when it comes to stuff like that.:D

[PaulRotheram]

I'll be surprised if it's tweek, although it could have an influence. Tweek mostly effects the car when accelerating, it'l make the car twitchy, or loosen the rear end up.

I some times experience the problem under heavy breaking when the traction is high as any touch of the steering will make the car break loose of traction (from my experience).

How much did you have the breaks on your ip6 woody? and what minimum breaks do you have?
I remember when i had minimum breaks on standard, the car would do as you have said. I have turned it down to 0 (off) and i'm yet to have a problem.

Try resetting the esc completely and see if the problem is still there. I've had the esc reset it self one on its own, with out realising.. it took me a week to realise !

[TRF_Tastic]

Wo0dy suck eggs time but all the washers are the same from side to side on the inner hinge pins???

[Spencer Mulcahy]

You probably already have checked but have you looked at the drive pins Stu just a thought happened to my touring car once.

[jimmy]

Talking to woody just now, there's a chance it could be an electric problem somewhere.

[jimmy]

Wo0dy suck eggs time but all the washers are the same from side to side on the inner hinge pins???

yeah we checked all that pretty thoroughly - I don't beleive woodys measurements haha, I want his dad to look at it before we go down that route. :)

[Dunc]

OK then guys question time here.

Raced the 501 today with a number of different drive options on it.

Oneway Standard shocks 35f AE blue spring med hole piston. 30r Ae Silver spring large hole piston. Car seemed to "dig in" on entry to corner, fine on exit jumped well. Any thoughts???

Same setup with Diff no problems with the front of the car at all.

Setup with the shock bladders used and diff awesome difference to stock shocks car was much more responsive!!

Didnt get to try the car with the shock bladders and the one-way.

Any thoughts on the issues with the front of the car.

I run 40wt oil, small holed pistons and blue springs at the front, with the one-way installed. My shock locations are the same as you mentioned in a later post, i.e. middle on wishbone and 3rd hole from the outside on the tower.

I'm sure you realise that a front one-way should generate more steering off power relative to a diff., which would imply increased weight transfer to the loaded outside wheel. This could well be the 'digging in' you're experiencing compared to running a differential. Therefore, I would suggest you're running a little soft. Perhaps try the small holed pistons first (I found the damping wasn't sufficient with anything but these) and then possibly a thicker oil.

[TRF_Tastic]

I'm sure you realise that a front one-way should generate more steering off power relative to a diff., which would imply increased weight transfer to the loaded outside wheel. This could well be the 'digging in' you're experiencing compared to running a differential. Therefore, I would suggest you're running a little soft. Perhaps try the small holed pistons first (I found the damping wasn't sufficient with anything but these) and then possibly a thicker oil.

Cheers Dunc, this was the first time that I have run a one-way, never got on with them in touring cars and I'm still not decided about them in the buggy, it felt like I was sacrificing a lot just to be consistant with it, however I will probably go back towards the diff for the first regional and then have another play after that with the oneway.

[jimmy]

You have to drive smoother with the one-way, but the car is quicker. Just depends on your driving style and what you like though.

[DCM]

one-way, drive it like you stole it, and don't let it drift into the corner too much off-throttle as it will bight you in the butt. Drive it on the throttle and use the extra on-power steering it gives to pull you around the corner.

[jimmy]

lol
I really find I have to drive it like I stole it with a fixed 4WD car. with the 501X I was really having to throw it into corners to get round.. It was fast, but it was another level of fast with the one-way. I would like to get the centre one-way though, I think that would be easier on some of the rougher tracks.

[woOdy]

Well, Dad has built it back up now after not finding anything, it now breaks in a straight line so I dont know what it was. I did have a blow shocky so I have replaced that so this is the only thing we can think of. It must of sent a signal astray.:confused:

[bender]

Had my first race meeting with the 501 last night and was well impressed with the car.

Despite the driver being very rusty (haven't driven an off-roader competitively since 2001) I didn't make too many mistakes and wasn't too far off the pace of the regulars.

The only trouble I had was getting used to the astroturf sections of the track - as it was the first time I'd driven on such a surface. The car was dialled on the dirt section but a little too twitchy on the astroturf.

I was running the front one-way so I might try a diff next time out.

Otherwise the car was excellent, handled and steered well and was completely reliable. :)

[BORMAC]

It was good seeng a couple of Tamiya 501x buggies in action here in Australia last night.Jason I thought you and Alan both did well with your cars and Im looking forward to running my 501 with you guys next weekend.That will be three TRF 501X buggies!

[grindog]

Hi all, Anyone got a decent grass setup yet (Oswestry BCL). Going to be its first run in the dirt so very curious:confused:

John

[TRF_Tastic]

Hey John, I have been running the same setup that Jimmy's review for grass, it seems to work very well indeed, however could do with a little more front end grip, could be a tyre issue as I havent found one that quite bites right on all sections of the track.

[grindog]

Cheers for that. I will start with that but would prefer a oneway and due my lack or preparation, will not have one now :eh?: Oh well, we shall see!

[super__dan]

he's ace, he used to scare me - in fact he still does. but he's the man when it comes to stuff like that.:D


I agree, I didn't originially 'get' Roger, I know recognise the banter and give as good as I get.

He also did a blinding job of making some battery hold downs for the prototype X6's in no time at all, I was very gratefull!

He also does a grand job of running Bury - respect!

[woOdy]

Over the last few races with the car I have been running the alloy blocks on the front so I can adjust the height of the front outer ball stud. The car has not been as great as normal and I was understanding why, me and Jimmy checked to see if they were any different and nothing. I put the old plastic ones back on and WOW. I dont know why the difference but WHAT a difference.

[jimmy]

I think we need to have another test with them for sure, but woody definitely felt a difference with the plastic blocks going back on the car.
a few people had a look, and the 'standard setting' of the alloy blocks is virtually identical to the kit plastic blocks (ball position, castor) but for some reason it just didn't go as well.

[Richard Lowe]

More unsprung weight...

[PaulRotheram]

get the scales out boyos!

[jimmy]

You only need to look to see the obvious weight differences - the Alloy ones are big! I'd not have thought the unsprung weight would make that much difference, but maybe it does.:wtf:
The Alloy blocks are certainly stronger and offer some great tuning options simply not available on the plastic (non adjustable) blocks.

[DaveG28]

Hi Guys,

Are these a useful upgrade for the 501x? Its been literally 10 -15 years since I did outdoor buggies, I kinda assumed anti roll bars would be not much use outside, but I am clueless on setups so can anyone suggest anything?

At the moment I am using the 50x in pretty much standard kit setup.

Dave

[jimmy]

Antiroll bars can be useful - just depends on the track. I've not seen a need for the antiroll bars on this car so far, running on fairly high traction tracks also.

[DaveG28]

Hi guys,

hoping someone can help, have been running the 501 since January, indoor and outdoor, and I am having one consistent issue with the handling.

No matter what shock springs or geometry in terms of toe in/cambers etc I use, I struggle to get the car round tight turns, and also find I need to transfer the weight incredibly precisely in order to get turn in. Also sometimes it seems to wander off the the outside of the track like there is not enough lock.

Basically what I am wondering is whether it could be down to the following:

1. I have only run a diff in the front, not a one way.

2. I have been using the kit servo saver (I have a metal geared servo so could probably do without).

Can anyone advise me on these, or whether it is likely down to anything else?

Thanks,

Dave

[woOdy]

[quote=DaveG28;32332]Hi guys,

hoping someone can help, have been running the 501 since January, indoor and outdoor, and I am having one consistent issue with the handling.

No matter what shock springs or geometry in terms of toe in/cambers etc I use, I struggle to get the car round tight turns, and also find I need to transfer the weight incredibly precisely in order to get turn in. Also sometimes it seems to wander off the the outside of the track like there is not enough lock.

Basically what I am wondering is whether it could be down to the following:

Hi mate. This depends on what sort of tracks you race on(dirt or other)? I have only ran with a 1 way diff in the front and have never had short of turn in or drift off line either. This is the reason I fell in love with this car. For tight corners this car will pivot on a sixpence piece if you ask it to and with out lose of control. I have played with the alloy front caster blocks but for me the standard ones are better. By all means reply and let me know about your tracks and I will try my best to help you.

[DaveG28]

Hi Woody,

I have had this on carpet and grass.

I have not ried running a one way yet, will this help to improve the front end grip?

Also, is there any chance the servo saver I am using is not quite strong enough?

I guess a good example of how it feels is that in most cars I have run if you progressively bring speed off whilst having steering lock on then they tightens their line, however with my 501x its like I need to transfer the weight to the front suddenly and with brakes applied to achieve this.

Look forward to hearing your feedback on this!

Cheers,

Dave

[stefke]

The servo saver is a problem on high grip tracks. I noticed this when i ran on an astro track. Since you said you run on grass and carpet, I'm guessing using a fixed servo arm will propably solve a lot of the discribed problems. I tied a zip tie around the stock servo saver and the car felt noticably more solid in high speed turns. Try this. It's a small and fast fix and check if this solves your problems.

untill now, I used a front diff, mainly because my front oneway hadn't arrived yet. A front oneway will generally make the car steer sharper.

[GRIFF55]

I used mine at coventry grass track today with the one way fitted, std servo saver with no cable tie and found the steering good.
Try the one way, i prefer mine.
good luck

[DaveG28]

Hi Griff,

Its Dave, I was also at Coventry in your heat I think!

I think I will definitely get a one way, it seems it will be a help in sorting out my only major issue with the car, even if its not the actual cause!

Cheers,

Dave

[GRIFF55]

Hope it sorts it out!
got home at 8.45:wtf:
If you dont get one for next bcl, your welcome to have a go with mine. hope to be there

[jasonrcb]

hi guys
i was also at coventry yesterday and i have found the 1 way suits the car better and i find it has improved it. i did have a suprise yesterday i snapped a shock shaft mind with the help of a driver going the wrong but other than that the car is superb and i ran a checkpoint 9x2 with no overheating problem like others seemed to be suffering with.

[woOdy]

Hi Woody,

I have had this on carpet and grass.

I have not ried running a one way yet, will this help to improve the front end grip?

Also, is there any chance the servo saver I am using is not quite strong enough?

I guess a good example of how it feels is that in most cars I have run if you progressively bring speed off whilst having steering lock on then they tightens their line, however with my 501x its like I need to transfer the weight to the front suddenly and with brakes applied to achieve this.

Look forward to hearing your feedback on this!

Cheers,

Dave


Yes i have also put a tie rap aound the servo saver to make it tighter. This may be all your problem. It is weak. I ran mine at southport yesterday and everybody said how good it looked and how much faster around the track it looked conpaired to the losi's. No it wasnt the fastest down the straight but round the track nothing could keep up with it. Some of the other drivers has some fast laps but they could not keep them up. The 501X is SO planted and SO safe it gives you so much confidence you can be consistant and fast.
Yes the one way will also help with front end grip but please be carefull as it is a bit hairy.

[TRF_Tastic]

O Amen on the hairy front, had to go back to running the diff yesterday, as it didnt give me enough feel before the car let go completely. We had 3 501's running yesterday at the regional with mixed results, I got 1st in the D, another guy got 2nd in the B, and another got 3rd in the A in his first offroad regional, after only 6-7 meetings in offroad, which I thought was a stunning result.

[DaveG28]

Hope it sorts it out!
got home at 8.45:wtf:
If you dont get one for next bcl, your welcome to have a go with mine. hope to be there

Ouch, thats a long day you had there mate! Don't think I am making it to Ledbury but will try to do some of the later BCL rounds, will also be doing the next regional again if your there?

I see from these posts I'm not the only one who had an issue with a driver going the wrong way, so I have a front arm/suspension shaft to change, and have found a bent rear shock shaft and turnbuckle. Hopefully changing those will make it jump as straight as it used to!

On the front end, think I will definitely get rid of the servo saver (I have a hitec metal geared servo) and run a fixed horn and see if that helps. Have also ordered a front one way, though I don't get on with them in touring cars! Have to say though, the 501 has been a dream other than that one issue, definitely going to stick with it!

Does anyone know where I can get shock shafts from for this car?

Cheers,

Dave

[GRIFF55]

O Amen on the hairy front, had to go back to running the diff yesterday, as it didnt give me enough feel before the car let go completely. We had 3 501's running yesterday at the regional with mixed results, I got 1st in the D, another guy got 2nd in the B, and another got 3rd in the A in his first offroad regional, after only 6-7 meetings in offroad, which I thought was a stunning result.


What regionals were these?

[bender]

Jimmy -

Any chance you could do an update to your editable 501 setup sheet to show the 3 Tamiya sway bars plus perhaps a part to show what front/centre/rear pulley sizes are being used.

I wouldv'e had a go at it myself but my dodgy version of Acrobat has packed up :wtf::mad:

[jimmy]

No worries mate , I will add those asap, along with the upgraded hubs too..

[TRF_Tastic]

East of England regionals Griff.

[TRF_Tastic]

Jimmy can you also add the changes to the steering bridge as there are three holes on there to change the ackerman angle.

Think that this will add a usefull addition to the 501 for steering changes and not just another pretty blue bit.

[bender]

Had a mixed meeting with the 501X last night.

I got the car working very well well come finals time (2 A-finals) but had a few reliability issues.

I won the first final but retired from the second final whilst again leading.

Firstly, I discovered that the kit ball-joints aren't the strongest :rolleyes:

On one part of a track you have a section which is basically 2 sets of double jumps followed by a tabletop. You have to get the whole section just right to get through it quickly, or you either crash or roll through a couple of the jumps.

I crashed a few times during the night - and a couple of times the front camber link popped off - luckily no broken parts.

I am going to run the new Ultima ball-joints on the car as the ball size is the same but they are much harder to pop on, so they should be harder to pop off too ;)

In the second final I seized the drive-train up:mad:

What happened was one of the screws that hold those little bearings that stop the belt skipping had come loose, and the screw and bearing moved across and jammed the slipper :(

I think I'd better use some threadlock on those screws!

Finally, one thing I tried which was very successful was running TA-05 plastic diff outdrives in the front diff. There was no wear and the diff was so much lighter!

Our state championships are coming up in about 5 weeks - after that I might try and see how long the TA-05 outdrives will last in the rear diff.

[bender]

I forgot - I posted my setup on the setup thread.

All I need now is an up-to-date blank set up sheet - Jimmy ;) hint hint ;)

[BREEZER]

Is it posable to get spares in the uk for this car and if so where.

Thanking You,

MARTIN.

[TRF_Tastic]

I dont believe that there is anywhere in the UK that are selling parts for the car. However Japan and Hong Kong are the best places for parts and very quick on delivery.

[dtech]

Finally, one thing I tried which was very successful was running TA-05 plastic diff outdrives in the front diff. There was no wear and the diff was so much lighter!

Our state championships are coming up in about 5 weeks - after that I might try and see how long the TA-05 outdrives will last in the rear diff.

Bender,
Your post got me thinking! Since the 501X and the TA-05 use the diff. , why does the diff on the TA-05 use the diff plate w/ two flat sides and the 501x just a simple ring. Would there be a gain in efficency if one were to use the TA-05 diff ring w/ flat sides? I would think that by having the plates lock onto the outdrives would provide a more efficent drivetrain(less of a chance for plates to move), or is this a way for the diff to provide more of a slipper type action? Fairly new to off road but is the plain ring design used commonly in off-road diffs?

Now I'm thinking of buying the lightweight alum. diff out drives for the TA-05 and throw the flat plates on to see what happens. Maybe also trying the lightweight one-way drive cups for the front.

Any thoughts welcome, as I come from an on-road background where every little gram counts and realize in off-road a little extra weight may mean a stronger vehicle.:confused:

[TRF_Tastic]

I dont see any reason why this wouldnt work in principle, might be a bit harder on outdrives and drive shafts but it should work, as this type of diff is employed in other makes of offroad car with success.

With less rotating mass the transmission should spool up quicker as well, which would make the transmission more efficient and thus the electrics shouldnt get so hot.

I would be very interested to know how you get on with this experiment, however I dont want to have to replace the diff halves after every meeting and the same with the driveshafts!! I wonder if the team drivers have had a play with this idea???

[bert digler]

has any one heard of the 508 worlds car it apperently is on these shores wtf:D

[TRF_Tastic]

Ok Burt wheres the joke!!! I must be thick as I dont get it, and its Monday tomorrow and the week is likely to go all wrong from the start!!


HELP ME AND EXPLAIN...........

[jimmy]

Updated the setup sheet- lemme know if there are any problems
Added the anti-roll bars and hop-up hubs

[TRF_Tastic]

Jim, could you put on the options for the hop up Steering bridge, please.

[jimmy]

good thinking batman, I will stick those on tonight. :)

[bender]

I believe the main reason the plastic diff halves used "keyed" diff rings is simply because any slip between these components and the diff would soon melt.

You don't have that problem with steel diff halves.

However, i used the standard diff rings with the plastic diff halves and it was fine - but this was for the front diff, which is under less stress than the rear diff.

If I try the TA05 plastic diff halves in the back it will only be with the "keyed" diff rings.

I personally wouldn't recommend using the alloy diff halves either - having used them in both the 415MSX and Evo5 - they wore quite badly if you didn't replace the plastic blades very often. I also think the plastic blades wouldn't hold up too well in mod.

Thanks for updating the setup sheet Jimmy :D

[BORMAC]

Hello Bender (Jason),
Sorry I didnt get to the track Saturday night,I'd been unwell.It sounds as though you are doing well enough aside from the lack of Locktite.I used Locktite on every single screw that went into a metal fitting.Havent had anything come lose yet (touch wood).Are you still running stock? I ended up making the trip up there Sunday late morning and ran the 501 a few times.Ive found that Losi RED X-2000 were handling better on the rear than the INSIDE JOBs.Less oversteer on the slippery dry track.Ive gotten myself a couple of Novak's SINTERED rotors and they sure do make some difference.Thanks again for that link through to handling and suspension set ups.When are you up there next?Cheers-Jason.

[bender]

Hi Jason,

I sent you an email, and yes, the car was working very well. I was running Mod with a 13 double - no-one could believe how fast it was with that motor:D

I couldn't get X-2000's to work - switched to Holeshots all round for the last heat - went 2 laps quicker and TQ'ed :)

[DaveG28]

Hi all,

What is a good weight (tamiye wise) oil to use for grass, I am using tamiya 700 weight at the moment, and believ this is @70wt AE wise which I assume is way too thick an oil?

Also, on the ali steering bridge, which hole is equivalent to the plastic bridge for me to use as a base setup?

Cheers,

Dave

[jasonrcb]

Hi everyone
my 501 shock set up is
front 35wt ae oil ae blue front springs middle hole wishbones and shock tower
rear 30wt ae oil white tamiya or silver ae springs outside hole on wishbones 3rd out on shock tower
this will be my starting set up for oswestry regional on sunday so i will let you all know how it goes or what i have changed whether good or bad decision

jason

[bert digler]

Ok Burt wheres the joke!!! I must be thick as I dont get it, and its Monday tomorrow and the week is likely to go all wrong from the start!!


HELP ME AND EXPLAIN...........

i here theres a 508 trf out i know ive never heard of either apparently some aussie who has moved here has one its trackside rumour apperently new chassis and new gearboxes for the worlds:o

[TRF_Tastic]

I know about the new chassis that is coming out, cells 3mm further forward etc etc... but as for gearboxes Im afraid not.

If anyone knows anything about this post it and pref piccys please.

[jimmy]

I asked Hupo about some things - hopefully I didn't sound too insane and he will understand what I asked. I've heard some similar things, but I've yet to see anything myself.
The only thing you can't buy that I've seen is the new camber mounts, stronger versions.

[DaveG28]

I'd have thought they are bound to bring out a worlds car, look at the 415, it has 415/415ms/415msx/415msx mre. Pleanty to choose from!!

Seriously, I'd imagine part of why it came out nearly a year before the worlds would be precisely to allow them to change it again. Although new gearboxes and chassis sounds quite major!

[mobilow]

I just tryed the 501 the first time offroad. My car is very loud, it sounds like 10 Parts are rolling in the chassis instead two belts. Has anyone the same problems ? also the rear belt jumped of the diff, the tension was ok, just out of the box using the settings from tamiya. I ve heard the spur is incorrect, is there a better solution for the stock one, that will calm down the sound ? Also I add a 3mm washer into the rear oil damper, cause the dogbones also rumbled a little bit. All in all with the one way pulley its good to handle I really like it.

[Colinevan]

I thought mine was noisy as well, Jimmy ran his today ( same race) and his sounded just like mine - noisy lol.. Theyre deffo not quiet like a 2wd.

I have slight spur probs in that they dont run true, when the car was new and with a new pinion, there is tight spots on the spur , i think thats where the noise comes from.

Set the spur so its a nice combo between play and a nice mesh and check it all the way around for eveness.

Thanks

Col.

[Colinevan]

To answer your last question, i believe you ran run b4 spurs as well.

Im sure someone will clarify.

Col.

[Fabs]

I thought mine was noisy as well, Jimmy ran his today ( same race) and his sounded just like mine - noisy lol.. Theyre deffo not quiet like a 2wd.

I have slight spur probs in that they dont run true, when the car was new and with a new pinion, there is tight spots on the spur , i think thats where the noise comes from.

Set the spur so its a nice combo between play and a nice mesh and check it all the way around for eveness.

Thanks

Col.

The noise comes from your pinions not the spur. You definately want to run long pinions on that car otherwise it'll be very loud...

[jimmy]

I run short pinions but get 100% mesh, depends on your shaft length (haha).

I am running 87t B4 spur gear on mine colin. I had some noise today under braking, sounds like the rear diff is slipping for some reason but not under acceleration, just braking.. odd.
Car was good, too soft though since I only changed the springs from racing at Tiverton, but overall great.. Stood up well to the harsh southport track.
That track is just too hard for me though - I simply can't go fast down that mental back section, and I lose lots of time because of it. :mad:

[jimmy]

Mobilow, is your rear diff ok? unless you replace the balls with something good the diff will slip in my experience on our high traction tracks. That would sound pretty nasty.
Main thing to check is the spur though, I took the kit spur off as its too big. The B4 one is better all round. I'm geared 15/87 with the LRP 3star brushless.

[GRIFF55]

Raced the mid west regional at oswestry today and the car was making clicking noises like a junping belt, couldnt see any probs but after checking diffs, slipper etc. it turned out to be the rear belt pulley on the layshaft was very badly worn(only done 5 meetings).
BEWARE.
Apart from that and a snapped diff screw, car was great

[jasonrcb]

im with you there griff my back diff collapsed ysesterday and im not overly happy about how quick mine is showing signs of big wear rate:(

[TRF_Tastic]

I have found that the drive train does wear on this car if it is not given maximum love!!

After every meeting the diffs come apart and get cleaned and rebuilt, things to look for are as this car has slipper style diffs is excessive wear on the inner and outer faces of the diff races, if showing any signs of wear throw them out and replace, you can re polish the races but I dont think that it is worth it. You should get 5-6 meetings from the rings if you keep the diff in tip top condition. Also if you use the diff shields that should increase your diff life as well. And just to reinforce what Jimmy said get some decent ceramic diff balls, there is a very nice advertiser on this forum (KANZEN) who supply some very reasonable diff replacemtent ceramic diff balls which will increase the life of your diff.

The belt tension is a big thing on this car as it will chew belts and more importantly the centre pulleys that they ride on, I have had one go completely, this was after 10-12 meetings but it still went and nearly cost me the whole day. I would stock up on centre pulleys as they are difficult to get hold of at the moment, as they are used on the TA05 and 415MSX MRE and MSXX.

[bender]

The only comment I get about mine is how quiet it is and how quick ;)

It's easily the quietest car on the track, 2 or 4wd.

I have run both the kit 96 spur and a B4 87 spur - both seem quiet to me.

I am using the Tamiya pinions - they seem to be pretty good.

[TRF_Tastic]

I'd agree bender, mine is quiet as well. The only time it makes a lot of noise is when something has broken.

[BORMAC]

Ive been running mine with low turn mods and the 5.5 BL motors and I can say with my sloppy driving that Im still yet to bend or brake something.Im also running the kit spur and genuine Tamiya pinions and I think the car sounds great.Sure the open diffs are pretty ordinary but if you dont mind the upkeep you can run a car thats very competitive.

[GRIFF55]

I totaly agree, only broke one wishbone and that was due to me!!
Just letting you know to check the pulleys;)

[mobilow]

Thanx to all the comments just ordered Kanzen Balls and a set of center Pulleys hopefully there will be an option to get one out of metal. I try to change B4 Spurs. Jimmy you re totally right the rear diff is totally bad after 7 runs I will rebuild it and seal it with some stickers. Hard testing goes on yesterday on dusty slippery clay track and the next sunday on gras hopefully taking the first points to the german championship. See also the pic its so much fun racing this car ...http://www.oople.com/forums/%3Ca%20href=%22http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2692kleinvl5.jpg%22%20target=%22_b lank%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/9829/img2692kleinvl5.th.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=% 22Free%20Image%20Hosting%20at%20www.ImageShack.us% 22%20/%3E%3C/a%3E

[mobilow]

http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/6057/img2692kleinke7.jpg

[DaveG28]

Hi Guys,

Was also at Oswestry yesterday, first try with the one way, totally transformed it (was @45th at the first event, @25th yesterday). Sadly final was ruined when my pin in the UniJoint on the driveshaft came out and jammed on the hub!

I've found it a strong car too, not much breaks, but even with hardened diff balls I find the rear diff is crackly after only a few runs!

How much camber are most of you guys running on them by the way?

Dave

[Sensory Overload]

Looking for bumpy, low traction, dirt/clay track setup. Any ideas? SO

[bender]

Looking for bumpy, low traction, dirt/clay track setup. Any ideas? SO

On the 501x setups thread I posted a link to my current dirt track setup.

My local track is a mixture of astro-turf and hard packed dirt (the astro-turf is only used on the face of the jumps). The track is fairly low grip and smooth but there are a couple of bumpy corners.

The setup I posted was working very well, it might be a good starting point :)

[Dave C]

hi

i read in previous posts that some people running the plastic outdrives

i've also done this in the past, and tested it 2 months with many many rebuildings, even between heats...

i had nothing than problems with my project, run it in the rear, with the d-rings and thungsten carbide balls on the inner side

every time the the diff gear was melted around the balls

at this moment i run back the steel outdrives with hpi screw and spring inside

now i'm going to test the alu ones, i've ordered the tamiya one and a 3racing one, i'm very curious what these things will do

grtz

[DaveG28]

Hi guys,

my 501x is running great, possibly the only thing I could do with it doing is not rolling so much when landing at an angle. By this I mean it goies well over bumps in a straight line, but compared to the best cars at my region, it is very easy to make it roll if it lands slightly tilted.

Is there a setup change I can make to reduce this, say moving the dampers on the towers, or running less camber? Or is this something I need to learn as a driving technique?

Dave

[PaulRotheram]

You can move the shocks out on the wishbone to help prevent that, about -1.5 to -2 camber will also help the issue.

if the above dosnt help (it should) then you can always cut spikes off the outside row on the front tyres.

[jimmy]

moving the shocks in on the tower always calms cars down for me - maybe worth a try. This car seems very stable to me, so certainly it sounds like the setup needs a tweak or two.

[Sensory Overload]

Looking for bumpy, low traction, dirt/clay track setup. Any ideas? SO

:confused: If using AE springs, is the blue front too stiff? what suggestions (using AE springs) would most of you use?? Need a decent starting point. So

[Richard Lowe]

The BJ4WE has similar weight distribution to the 501 and we use either green or silver associated springs on the front on dirt ;)

[jimmy]

possibly even kit setup? The kit springs are similar to green rear and silver front.
blue would surely be too hard on dirt, at Tiverton i ran Tamiya springs, yellow (kit) on the front and red on the back (softest tamiya spring)

[Sensory Overload]

The BJ4WE has similar weight distribution to the 501 and we use either green or silver associated springs on the front on dirt ;)

Should I then stick with the AE silver rears? My current shock oil weight is 35f/30r. SO

[PaulRotheram]

at tiverton i ran green rear springs with 30 weight oil, if you want to run silver, youl need to drop to 25 weight oil IMO.

green rear on dirt felt ace though!

[TRF_Tastic]

GOt a bumpy track, coming up on the regional circuit, and the stock setup that I normally run is far too bouncy, any hints as to what to try to calm things down a bit?

[woOdy]

GOt a bumpy track, coming up on the regional circuit, and the stock setup that I normally run is far too bouncy, any hints as to what to try to calm things down a bit?

Please let me know alittle more about the track you are going to and I will try my best.

[TRF_Tastic]

Hi Woody the track is at Ipswich and consists of a mixed surface of grass and hard packed dirt (gets very dusty in the sun) some very big jumps/drop offs, and a lot of fast sections, coupled with the usual very tight bends. The circuit is very bumpy in places where it has been raced on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers.

[woOdy]

Hi Woody the track is at Ipswich and consists of a mixed surface of grass and hard packed dirt (gets very dusty in the sun) some very big jumps/drop offs, and a lot of fast sections, coupled with the usual very tight bends. The circuit is very bumpy in places where it has been raced on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers.


I have done alot of practice on multi surface like grass and astro but not with dirt. I have done Tivy but that was a working process from start to finish. What I have been running is AE blue springs on the front with 35wtg oil and AE silver springs on the rear and 30wtg oil. I will get back to you about pistons as I cant remember. I do have the 1 way dif in and other than that I dont have any washers under the camber inner link blocks. middle positions on the inner and outer on the rear camber link and in the middle on the front. shock positions I have the front on the inner at the bottom and the middle at the top. the rear is in the inner on the bottom and middle at the top. only play around with the wheel base if the car is not pivoting and then make it shorter. If the car is still a little bouncy then change the piston to a smaller hole. Hope this helps. Good luck and hope you do well. Go 501.

[BORMAC]

Hi Woody the track is at Ipswich and consists of a mixed surface of grass and hard packed dirt (gets very dusty in the sun) some very big jumps/drop offs, and a lot of fast sections, coupled with the usual very tight bends. The circuit is very bumpy in places where it has been raced on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers.
You're Australian? I had no idea.Ive been running my 501X at Ipswich in Mod and the car performs really well.Cheers-Jason.

[TRF_Tastic]

No sorry, that would be Ipswich Suffolk.

Woody, I have been running that setup pretty much from day one, but as the track has got more rutted the car has a nasty tendencie to bounce a bit, especialy the rear of the car.

[Eirik]

No sorry, that would be Ipswich Suffolk.

Woody, I have been running that setup pretty much from day one, but as the track has got more rutted the car has a nasty tendencie to bounce a bit, especialy the rear of the car.

What pistons are you running?

I have found the new machined pistons to be 100 times better than the stock ones, a different world really!!

Currently I am using the 1.4mm in the front with AE 35wt and a 1.4mm with one hole drilled to 1.5mm with AE 30wt in the rear. (Part# 53978)
Use kit setting for the shock position's, works great on a bumpy track!

[Stan]

Hello I'm running my 501X on a carpet track is anyone else ?. I could use some help and advice on setup. Have you used shock limiters ,oil wiegths, wheel base etc. Basically it's a flat track sometimes one jump with tight corners.

Thanks in advance:D
Stan

[Fabs]

I'd use a TRF 415 if I were you :p

[trf14]

Does anyone know how the TRF501x pistons compare with those of a B4?
thx
the First TRF-pilot :-) (back in '89);)

[kenooze]

Stan

In this post, you could find my set-up from the first French National, I'm sure this could help you for starting !

Good Luck

Cedric

[xxx]

Does anybody have a setup sheet for grass? Because the German championships this year is on grass.

thanks Sven

[jimmy]

Does anyone know how the TRF501x pistons compare with those of a B4?
thx
the First TRF-pilot :-) (back in '89);)


If you have a look on the oOple setup sheet I compare the pistons to AE B4 ones directly. I am not sure the hole sizes are a direct comparison, but they aren't far off.
Thats how I translated my BJ4we setup easily to the 501X.
The Machined pistons are not worth getting, they change the damping too much (too hard) over the kit ones.. so you need to readjust your setup to suit.

[DaveG28]

Hi all,

in terms of keeping the setup consistent, what kind of maintenence schedule would you keep on parts? I am thinking of:

axle bearings

driveshafts

suspension balls


I am asking because I am getting very close to a good setup now (putting a one way in has made the car soo responsive its transformed the handling) and don;t want to keep chasing if I could be losing out from not replacing the above?

Also, I have the option pistons (1.2) and damper rings in, and am running 30wt, is this a reasonable damping setup?

Dave

[Arn0]

For those who are looking for setup, there is this thread (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2624) and especially this post (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27559&postcount=3). You will find some base setups!

Also it will be updated soon!

Hope that help!

[Stan]

Hello all
Can anyone tell me what effects using the hopup steering has. How will long arms change the handling or short arms:wtf:

Thanks
Stan

[delanobe]

Somebody knows what the colors of the Tamiya springs mean? The kit has standard yellow ones... and how they are compared with those from AE.
I purchased a set of Tamiya Hop up springs with the following colors:

Red:
Blue:
Yellow:

Thanks

[B4james]

Springs are rated the same as their touring car springs

RED = Soft

YELLOW = Medium

BLUE = Hard

Hope this helps,

[delanobe]

Yes, thank you!

If somebody has the colors for the associated ones I'm set ;)

Thanks

[B4james]

Associated springs going from softest to hardest,

Black 1.74lb
Green 1.90 lb.
Silver 2.10 lb.
Gray 2.33lb
Blue 2.55 lb.
Gold 2.75 lb.
Red 2.95 lb. ASC

[stefke]

Has anyone tried the Hop up shock pistons ?

[TRF_Tastic]

You wanna read Jimmy's post above number 145.

[stefke]

I've read it, but he essentially talks about the difference in setup with the new pistons, not their quality.

I find the stock ones a little bit inconsistant. Also, In the SETUP thread, I saw Hupo using the hopup pistons (With Kyosho springs :o )

[B4james]

I actually like the improved pistons, yes they are harder than the kit ones but that is because they actually make the oil go through the holes rather than around which allows for more pack.

You also have less issues with the seals leaking because they dont allow side to side movement. I also now run the rod guide kit and Kyosho X seals from the Ultima shocks, heaps smoother and dont leak so far.

[B4james]

Hey Jimmy,


We have a big title event in a week and a half in Australia on the weekend of the 11-12th of August and the track surface looks very similiar to the Euro track.

You mention that you will have Hupo's 501X set up to put up soon, any chance of this being before this meeting date?

[jimmy]

balls, I didn't bring it in to work - I will write it on my hand so I remember as I don't have a scanner at home.

The biggest difference I made to my car was to put in the original pulley configuration, big rear and small front - this really settled the car down especially at the rear. and that's what Hupo advised (and was running himself)

but yeah, I will get the setup online asap.

[delanobe]

So the front one way is a no no?

[BORMAC]

Hey Jimmy,


We have a big title event in a week and a half in Australia on the weekend of the 11-12th of August and the track surface looks very similiar to the Euro track.

You mention that you will have Hupo's 501X set up to put up soon, any chance of this being before this meeting date?
Hello James,are you running at Ipswich on the 11th and 12th ? I also belong to that club but will be in Sydney that weekend participating in a vintage buggy day at St Ives.Im looking forward to it!

[jimmy]

Sorry I meant original pulley sizes. and the one way has the black original 35t size. Hupo ran the one way and so did I - it was super fast but I ended up changing to the diff in the front because when I got the big jumps wrong there was simply no way to rescue the car (when the nose came up, it was all over as you couldnt dip it down)

[B4james]

Hello James,are you running at Ipswich on the 11th and 12th ? I also belong to that club but will be in Sydney that weekend participating in a vintage buggy day at St Ives.Im looking forward to it!

Hi, no I am actually running at the Victorian titles at the keilor track

[stefke]

Any news on Hupo's setup ?

[jimmy]

Sorry - all the setups were added to the report page on friday, but they will be added to the 501X page when I get a chance and also to the new SETUP section :)


http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2007/setups/TRF501X_HubertH%f6nigl_2007EC-Vaasa.htm (http://www.oople.com/forums/../rc/photos/euros2007/setups/TRF501X_HubertH%f6nigl_2007EC-Vaasa.htm)

[veecee]

Thanks for the link Jimmy. And well done on the photos for Tamiya! :cool:

[Sensory Overload]

Can't seem to find Cédric Devillers indoor setup. The link for some reason doesn't work (maybe it's my computer). Regardless can some help with an indoor Carpert setup similiar to the Loo. Thanks, SO

[jimmy]

Thanks for pointing that out - I will re-upload it when I get home, it got lost during the move of servers.

[delanobe]

Do you guys run the VERY thick washer on the rear alu hub? (High grip track)

Thanks

[Fabs]

Can't seem to find Cédric Devillers indoor setup. The link for some reason doesn't work (maybe it's my computer). Regardless can some help with an indoor Carpert setup similiar to the Loo. Thanks, SO

Hi,

Just went to the Petit RC race that was held on carpet. I'll post my setup as soon as I get home but shocks wise I ended up with the following:

Front:

45W oil, smallest holes pistons, Blue AE springs, 2nd hole front outside on tower, outside hole on wishbone.

Rear:

35W oil, mid size holes pistons, Silver AE springs, shock position as on the manual.

All the rest is as on the setup I've posted some time ago.

[werner1619]

Hi all,

Got a 501x, thanks Delanobe! (buggy in good nick and loads of parts, your the man! :))

Quick question, why does the 501 not have Droop adjustment?

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I'm running hard tamiya shock oil in the front, and soft in the rear.
Seems about right to me. The stock oil was a tube of soft oil.

It's is unknown what weight these are...?

[jimmy]

DCM posted the weights of the Tamiya oils in the Durga thread - perhaps it should be made into a sticky of its own

[Carissa]

This is probably a really stupid question but is the rear toe on the 501x worlds ed. fixed or can you adjust the rear toe angle?

Thanks

[Carl Hughes]

Hi Jimmy, Carl Hughes here, I've been trying to contact you regarding Electronics side of things in my TRF 501X World Edition, please can you tell me what the best motor would be for it, it comes with a 91 tooth spur gear and a 15 tooth pinion gear.

Also I want the best servo, ESC, Cells, transmitter and receiver.

I would be very greatfull if you could share your knowledge with me so I can finish off this awesome car.

Many thanks
Carl Hughes

[Carl Hughes]

Hi Jimmy, like I say, I'm not bothered how much the items are, I just want to put the best on this car to finish it.

Thanks again
Carl Hughes

[stefke]

This is probably a really stupid question but is the rear toe on the 501x worlds ed. fixed or can you adjust the rear toe angle?

Thanks

It has a fixed toe angle but people sometimes adjust toe by using Yokomo rear hubs.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Thanks for pointing that out - I will re-upload it when I get home, it got lost during the move of servers.

I got the durga front one-way Jimmy. For my 501x,
it says on the package DO NOT USE WITH TAMIYA 501X.

I was thinking it was the pulley that was included.
I also have the durga black wheels also to use on my 501x "WE"

I've installed the TA-05 front one-way pulley instead though. Seems this is gonna work.

I think it was the pulley the package was refering to though.

I have installed the front one-way pulley and it fits just perfect!:thumbsup:
I hope it unlocks the full pontential of this buggy because the diffs
are terrible..:thumbsup:

When my tungsten diff balls come in I'll install them on the rear end.

[Northy]

Wouldn't you have to put the Durga 1 way in the 501 backwards, then you'd get no forward drive, and 4wd brakes?

Jimmy will confirm.

We're still waiting on an answer about your favourite screws. :confused:

Cheers,

G

[jimmy]

I think you're correct there G - in fact I'm sure you are.

[Northy]

I think I read it in your wonderfull review fella :thumbsup:

G

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Wouldn't you have to put the Durga 1 way in the 501 backwards, then you'd get no forward drive, and 4wd brakes?

Jimmy will confirm.

We're still waiting on an answer about your favourite screws. :confused:

Cheers,

G
Answer to the first question: Why would I want to do that?

Answer to the second question: I guess the durga titanium screws would
work or the rc screws stainless steel screws.

[Northy]

Answer to the first question: Why would I want to do that?

Answer to the second question: I guess the durga titanium screws would
work or the rc screws stainless steel screws.

Answer to your first question: - I was trying to tell you it wouldn't work BMag my man......

Answer to your screw staement: - I don't think that was on the list young fellow.......

[B44&501xRacerEX]

It worked for me. I just put it in and ran the car outside.
The Durga front one way is working, because I have alot of traction on the front tires.
I didnt run it aggressivly I just wanted to make sure it was in fact working.
It doesnt work for the original 501x, but I have the worlds edition.

[AaronR]

It doesnt work for the original 501x, but I have the worlds edition.

Oh, good God, like there's a difference?! :eh?:

[Northy]

When you hold the car in your hand can you turn the front wheels forward very easily? :confused:

G

[Northy]

Bman,

I refer you to the block of text in the white box, in the middle of the two chassis pictures:

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/page04.html

G

[Carl Hughes]

Hello Jimmy,

Any chance you can give us your thoughts about the best items to put in my 501X World Edition.

I want to get them ordered

Many thanks
Carl Hughes

[AaronR]

What advise do you need? Brushless or brushed motor/ESC combo, NiMH cells vs. LiPo, Spektrum vs. crystal radio system? Give us an idea of what you are leaning towards and we can help you further.

[Carl Hughes]

Basically in a nut shell I want the best of everything on it... this is what a local model shop has suggested

1) Motor...Nosram Matrix ISTC speed controller and storm Evo 4.5t brushless motor....(The World Edition comes with a 91 tooth spur gear and a 15 tooth pinion gear, would this be suitable?)

2) Cells...Orion 4200 SHO 6 Cell battery.

3) Futaba BLS451 servo.

4) KO Espirit 3 Universe radio system.

5) Receiver...Not sure looking for advice.


Please help so I can order my items to finish it off

Many thanks everyone
Carl Hughes

[DaveG28]

Assuing the Nosram esc is their version of the sphere that sounds fine. Most people find 4.5 a bit much though, I think 5.5 is most popular in 4wd?

The orions are fine, good cells, not the highest capacity but a lot of top guys use them.

I've always liked futaba servo's so that will be fine

Never used KO, but Esprit 3 is meant to be top of the range I think?

Receiver, well for ease probably spektrum modules, no crystals to worry about!!

[Carl Hughes]

What cells would be better then?

[AaronR]

LiPo :wub

Carl, back to your component choices, those are all just fine. Dave might be right by saying any brand 4.5 is going to have some serious zing to it. 6.5 or 5.5 might be a better choice and if you need more power, get a 4.5 later and keep your milder motor as a spare. Dave is also right by saying Spektrum, Futaba FAAST, Airtronics/Sanwa/KO 2.4 systems really save on headaches at larger events and virtually eliminate any chance of glitching. Since switching to the 4000mAh MaxAmps LiPo saddle pack, I will never, ever go back to NiMH cells. I have added some Tungsten weights in the rear to compensate for the lack of weight due to LiPo.

Take the time and browse through the 501X thread in the electric off-road forum on www.rctech.net (http://www.rctech.net) too. Just ignore the bmag posts there and here on Jimmy's site PLEASE!

You also PM'd me about a setup. Post what kind of surface you will or are racing on and I'm sure we can help.

[Northy]

Bman,

I refer you to the block of text in the white box, in the middle of the two chassis pictures:

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/page04.html

G

Hey, BNag, you hear me?:confused::confused::confused:
G

[rcracer]

he might be out racing pro's :D

[Northy]

Only score he's gonna get! lol

You have pm fella.

G

[B44&501xRacerEX]

When you hold the car in your hand can you turn the front wheels forward very easily? :confused:

G
Nope, it is working. Trust me. I see where this is going.
It works with the TA-05 pulley just not the other included pulley.
The included pulley DOESNT MATCH UP WITH THE BELT CORRECTLY.
But the TA-05 does and it's the one I've been using. It's 36 tooth, and the stock pulley is 37 tooth.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Hey, BNag, you hear me?:confused::confused::confused:
G

Not a clue.:woot:
Been watching national treasure 2, sorry...

[Northy]

So you've fitted a pulley from a different car, with 1 tooth left to make it work? :eh?:

Can you tell us about the glued diff again please? :confused:

G

[jimmy]

Basically in a nut shell I want the best of everything on it... this is what a local model shop has suggested

1) Motor...Nosram Matrix ISTC speed controller and storm Evo 4.5t brushless motor....(The World Edition comes with a 91 tooth spur gear and a 15 tooth pinion gear, would this be suitable?)

2) Cells...Orion 4200 SHO 6 Cell battery.

3) Futaba BLS451 servo.

4) KO Espirit 3 Universe radio system.

5) Receiver...Not sure looking for advice.


Please help so I can order my items to finish it off

Many thanks everyone
Carl Hughes

I can only really tell you what I have in my 501X carl - the ISTC esc is good, I'm running the 2007 with a fan on top - so basically the same thing. I find the 6.5 motor too slow (slower than a 3star older motor) but the 5.5 is about perfect. If they have sintered rotors now then that might be different tho as mine is bonded and I found the 5.5 with sintered rotor to be just too powerful for me.
4.5 with any rotor inside at all is too much on 6 cells for me - you'll have more fun driving a car you can control than one you smash into pieces.

This ESC is big and with a normal servo I think you'll probably have to run the ESC so it overhangs the chassis - the shell and undertray stick out further so there's no real problem but I found it neater with a low profile servo - I use the KO low profile servo in my 501X just so I can make a neat install.

I have the ESC blocking the motor screws - so I cant remove the motor that easily. But I use the parma (?) clear double sided 'tape' which lets me remove the ESC and reinstall it without changing tape.. It's ace! only good for things like this tho, not smaller things (like switches) or things that aren't ever supposed to move like a servo.

As for pinions - you might as well get one or two sets of the 501X-specific pinions that tamiya released - they are longer than 'normal' pinions and make meshing a little easier. Not sure what sizes they come in but they come 2 to a bag. You want to be aiming for around 13:00 overall ratio on a 5.5 motor, maybe a little less for a 5.5 on sintered but these ratios are what Jurgen told me direct and I've always stuck to them even if its fairly conservative.

I've heard some negatives on the sho's but I've got some slingshot 4500mah cells which seem good.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

So you've fitted a pulley from a different car, with 1 tooth left to make it work? :eh?:

Can you tell us about the glued diff again please? :confused:

G
Aaron R can explain that better. It is on rctech if ya want to see it.
I hate RCtech though, the mod doesnt like me.:yawn:

[jimmy]

I just took my durga one way out to compare against my spare 501X one way - nothing like it. you'd need a huge spacer to get the pulley in the correct position, about 8mm or more. Or am I missing something.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I didnt even need a spacer since I'm using a TA-05 pulley.
Told ya id fit. You must have the original 501x then.

Here's a 2 pics to better explain it.

[jimmy]

Oh I didn't doubt it would fit, I think you mistook me - what I meant is that it wouldn't work.

[Northy]

BMag, I'd love you spannering on my cars.

Where is your mate that understands this glued diff thing, I'm racing tomorrow and think it would help :)

G

[AaronR]

Aaron R can explain that better. It is on rctech if ya want to see it.

Oh yeah, glue works too but here... http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4313159&postcount=1284

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/laughing021.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org)

[jimmy]

I do not know whether to laugh or cry! :cry::lol:

[Carl Hughes]

Hello Jimmy, Have you got time now to give me some advice on what items are the best to finish of my car?

Cheers
Carl Hughes

[Carl Hughes]

Sorry Jimmy, I've just found your earlier reply.

Thanks
Carl Hughes

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Oh I didn't doubt it would fit, I think you mistook me - what I meant is that it wouldn't work.

Oh....:eh?:...I'm sorry I didnt get the joke.:lol:

[sport10]

B-Mag what I think they are trying to say is that the durga one way diff is in backwards when installed in the 501X. The wheels have to be able to roll forward freely like on a two wheel drive to get the correct one way action. You should be able to rotate the front wheels forward freely without any binding. Pickup the rear of the buggy and roll it forwards with the front wheels on the ground. The front wheels should rotate freely when rolling forward and lock or turn the rear wheels when rolled backwards. If you are getting the reverse action the diff is in backward.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Your right I was wrong.
I have put it in the rear end of the car instead, and it does work now.
So I'll put the tungsten diff balls in the front.

It's unknown how it's gonna drive though. But I have had more trouble out of the rear
than anything. Freekin stock diff balls.... :/

[Mike Hudson]

Your right I was wrong.
I have put it in the rear end of the car instead, and it does work now.
So I'll put the tungsten diff balls in the front.

wow oneway in the rear end :lol:
let us know how it goes

[rcracer]

this just gets better, are you reversing around the track bmag :confused:

[B44&501xRacerEX]

wow oneway in the rear end :lol:
let us know how it goes

I'm so tired of wasting money...:(
This is the only front one-way my hobby shop could get in.
The 501x front one-way has been discontinued:bored:

[B44&501xRacerEX]

this just gets better, are you reversing around the track bmag :confused:
You cannot use reverse when you race, so why does it matter?
It's worth a shot. If not I'll remove it later. The traction you get at
Albion is incredible, you can run slicks there, so I dont think it will
affect the handling of the car at all in those conditions.
We'll see.

[rcracer]

be sure to keep us informed :thumbsup:

[Mike Hudson]

you should have taken it back and told them it doesnt fit your car, i can only imagine it will make the car worse to handle cornering put all your electrics backwards so then you can drive your car backwards :lol: maybe that will make things better

[pugs]

I'm so tired of wasting money...:(
This is the only front one-way my hobby shop could get in.
The 501x front one-way has been discontinued:bored:


the 501x one-way is discontinued?????

Some available here!


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OP951-Tamiya-TRF501X-Front-One-Way-Set_W0QQitemZ260203766698QQihZ016QQcategoryZ34061Q QcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262

and here!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/53951-TRF501X-Front-One-Way-Set-Tamiya_W0QQitemZ320241112775QQihZ011QQcategoryZ340 61QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

oh and here!!!!

http://www.vellrip.com/store/product_details.asp?p=75&c=


try harder!!!!!:p

[mole2k]

You cannot use reverse when you race, so why does it matter?
It's worth a shot. If not I'll remove it later. The traction you get at
Albion is incredible, you can run slicks there, so I dont think it will
affect the handling of the car at all in those conditions.
We'll see.

It'll be like a solid rear axl, you'll suffer from a lot over power on oversteer. Then when you brake only the front wheels will actually brake so it'll understeer under brakes.

At least thats how I assume it would handle I dont know of anybody who's actually ran a one way in the rear before.

[DaveG28]

Your right I was wrong.
I have put it in the rear end of the car instead, and it does work now.
So I'll put the tungsten diff balls in the front.

It's unknown how it's gonna drive though. But I have had more trouble out of the rear
than anything. Freekin stock diff balls.... :/

Oh wow, with my new setup I'm gonna OWN YOU ALL at the next national losers!! Cheers for the tip Bmag! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[jimmy]

I have never heard so much tripe in all my life - BMag, please could you keep your setup stuff and infact anything you post to the playground section of this forum.

[josh_smaxx]

I have never heard so much tripe in all my life - BMag, please could you keep your setup stuff and infact anything you post to the playground section of this forum.

Is there a way you can set it up so his reply's get rejected unless there in the playground section? I have to admit the stuff he posts in here isnt funny or helpful.

[AaronR]

DISCONTINUED? Man, where do you get your top secret info?!

Available here too... http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53951

[Lee]

BMag, you mention front one way, so why put it in the rear:confused:

I still love you though, although your advice is not helpful, it is hilarious, but only because we know your talking crap:woot:

[ryan]

Bmag...Im in desperate need of a pit bitch. I think you would be the best person for the job. How about it?? :)

[sport10]

Just sell the one way and get the correct piece already! I doubt the oneway for the 501X has been discontinued. Go to a different hobbyshop or order online for the correct part if the hobbyshop cannot get the right part in. Use the ball diffs in the mean time. The stock diff balls should work fine if the diff are built correctly. I would also suggest canceling the order for the tugsten diff balls too. More junk you do not need. Get someone that is experienced show you how to correctly build a ball diff that will last. It is not that hard. If you are still new to driving you might want to think twice about using a oneway anyway because they usually make a buggy harder to drive verses using a ball diff in the front. Oneway diffs usually make a buggy have alot of off power steering and make the rear pivot harder on braking because of only having rear wheel brakes. Just a heads up.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Further investing this car I built the diffs tottally wrong...
I forgot to put in the .05mm spacer and the bearings also.
Rushing a kit is not the anwser. :(
Thankfully the front diff is fine, the rear isnt fine.

[mole2k]

I've ran the diffs in my 501x for 8 club meets and only on the last one was the rear diff starting to feel a bit rough.

Thats on the standard diff balls, running indoors with a 10.5 though so fairly easy on them power wise.

[bender]

At the risk of looking as foolish as B-MAg :blush: I have actually raced a car with a one-way in the back and a ball diff in the front :o

This was many years ago (late 80's) in Australia when the Mid Optima had a one way option - you could simply take the one way unit out of it's housing and place it into the housing of a standard rear gear diff.

On our slippery track I found it worked rather well - front wheel braking stopped you from spinning out into corners and the car wouldn't understeer out of corners as much.

Not too convinced on how well it would work today though:confused:

In fact, I'm sure Gil Losi Jr tested a Yokomo Dogfighter with front AND rear one-ways back in early 87 at some big international event at the Romsey track over there, prior to the 87 worlds?

[ashleyb4]

how did he brake.

A

[mole2k]

Front and rear would be strange, as Ash said he would have no brakes also there would be no diff action so it would be solid 4wd with no brakes.

[jimmy]

I bet it would be awesome over the jumps tho :lol::confused::lol:

[bender]

From what I can remember the Romsey track was very fast and open dirt track (at least from the pictures I saw), so brakes weren't needed - plus of course the cars were nowhere near as fast as now ;)

And no diff action (at least in the front end) was quite normal back then - both the Progress and Dogfighter used one-way hubs with solid axles. I think the original Cat used this setup too?

[DaveG28]

I have to say I do think its worth getting better diff balls for this kit, I've alwys struggled to make standard ones last, and its not the easiest kit to keep swapping diffs on!

Having said that, I tend to run diffs too tight so maybe that's why!

[lochness42]

What about using oneway all around? :thumbsup::p:lol:

[jimmy]

I have to say I do think its worth getting better diff balls for this kit, I've alwys struggled to make standard ones last, and its not the easiest kit to keep swapping diffs on!

Having said that, I tend to run diffs too tight so maybe that's why!

Is that the standard car or big pulley / worlds car? If you use dust covers (the sticky sort) like I made, then I find the diffs last well. I found the original diffs worked best with ceramic balls, but the bigger 12-ball pulleys were fine with the kit balls.

[DaveG28]

Is that the standard car or big pulley / worlds car? If you use dust covers (the sticky sort) like I made, then I find the diffs last well. I found the original diffs worked best with ceramic balls, but the bigger 12-ball pulleys were fine with the kit balls.

Good point Jimmy, I haven't tried standard balls with the bigger pulleys, I guess having the extra balls in that version makes them last better! I like as little maintenance as possible anyway though, haven't touched the front diff in @12 meetings, despite rain/dust etc! Its just about holding up still..

I use the sticky diff protectors too, I've had a few come unstuck though so I sometimes end up with loads of crap in there anyway!

Has anyone tried the centre one way yet by the way? Might be a good compromise between a diff or one way at the front?

[jimmy]

As well as more balls I think the balls are futher out from the centre, so you get more torque. Did you clean the pulley really well before sticking the protectors on? not sure which you have but mine are designed to touch the diff halves which need grease applied to them and it creates a near perfect seal.

[DaveG28]

As well as more balls I think the balls are futher out from the centre, so you get more torque. Did you clean the pulley really well before sticking the protectors on? not sure which you have but mine are designed to touch the diff halves which need grease applied to them and it creates a near perfect seal.

That probably explains it, mine touch the diff halves too but although I cleaned the pulley's to try and get them to stick better, I didn't grease the diff halves so the protector is probably gripping on them leading to it pulling off! Cheers for the tip Jimmy, will try it when I rebuild them!

[B44&501xRacerEX]

What about using oneway all around? :thumbsup::p:lol:
Now that would be crappy right there, Id be like driving my TXT-1
Yes I have one and the diffs are locked

[josh_smaxx]

Now that would be crappy right there, Id be like driving my TXT-1

No it wouldnt....

[mole2k]

If the track was really fast and flowing and had no need for brakes then a front and rear one way would give you a brushless style no friction off-throttle.

[DaveG28]

Just noticed while finding the part number for the centre one way (no Bmag, it won't work in the rear, or front) that there is a 12 degree castor block available. Am I right in thinking the standard ones are 10 degree??

In terms of affect on handling, good old Wiki reckons more castor = more stability, and an increase of camber when on lock, which I guess might mean less responsive turn in, but maybe more grip mid turn?? If I am talking bollocks though can someone correct me!!

[bender]

I have always found it to be the complete opposite ie:

More caster = more turn-in (especially at high speeds), less on-power steering (so more stability out of corners), and less low-speed steering.

[sosidge]

The description you gave DaveG28 is technically correct, however depending on your driving style you may find that what bender has said is true too. Because caster can affect a fair few other things in the geometry you don't always get a textbook handling effect, that is why there is no substitute or testing.

Personally speaking, in the on-road cars I have always found that less caster gives sharper turn-in and better mid corner rotation while more caster is better on-power. However too little caster on-road just removes grip full-stop. I haven't really done enough testing off-road with it, but more caster does seem smoother.

[Northy]

And it also depends if you have a diff or a 1 way in the front....

G

[B44&501xRacerEX]

My 501x parts came in at golfland today:
501x Aluminum Steering Bridge 21 dollars
Tungsten diff balls 41 dollars
91 tooth Spur gear 4 dollars

[MotoRev]

I raced my 501x for the first time last weekend and struggled over the big jumps with the car nose diving all the time :confused: obviously leading to lack of confidence when you probably most need it...

It was complete build/set up as kit (springs/oil etc) so was a pretty sluggish all round, but having tried different approaches and different throttle/brake combos never really got anywhere. I thought it would be alot more balanced no?

I also had IB42's in the back as opposed to the lighter Lipo's but it still nose dived like mad??

Any idea's

[sosidge]

I raced my 501x for the first time last weekend and struggled over the big jumps with the car nose diving all the time :confused: obviously leading to lack of confidence when you probably most need it...

It was complete build/set up as kit (springs/oil etc) so was a pretty sluggish all round, but having tried different approaches and different throttle/brake combos never really got anywhere. I thought it would be alot more balanced no?

I also had IB42's in the back as opposed to the lighter Lipo's but it still nose dived like mad??

Any idea's

Throttle control?

Power on over the jump will keep the nose up. Lifting off will make it nosedive.

If confidence is the issue as you mention - attack the jumps - keeping the nose up will keep your head up.

[WHITTLER555]

HMMM! I had exactly the opposite problem last sunday at the new Bury venue. They had some sleeping policemen type jumps which could be doubled by most of the cars except the 501x's in attendance. This was because they were too nose up and landing right over on the rear shock tower. i tried my Losi XX4 and this jumped them fine. I then compared the two cars and on sight the 501x has its batterys and motor a lot further back on the chassis which i surmised was causing the irregular jumping problem.

However I miust say that on the properly built tables top, proper run up and down slope the car jumped fine, it was just the short sharp takeoffs that it was not happy with.